MAY 2 :.. 1981

4H FCITUS on FflSHION

Betty Dillard and Textiles Research Associate Betty Feather State Clothing and Textiles Specialist

Leaders' Manual Levels 8 through 12

LG 5212 Table of Contents

Focus on 8 ...... 1-3 Focus on Fashion 9 ...... 4-6 Focus on Fashion 10 ...... 7-9 . . Focus on Fashion 11 ...... 10-12 Focus on Fashion 12 ...... 13-16 Focus on Fashion 8 Leader's Guide

The Focus on Fashion 8 project is Unless otherwise specified, the a situation or mood such as casual, an advanced level project designed leader should conduct the meet­ formal, etc. for the 4-H member who has mas­ ings. In this manual you will find 2. Evaluate quality of fabrics and tered the skills in the beginning project ideas as well as sugges­ garment features in ready made and intermediate level projects. The tions for member demonstrations garments with consideration for goals of the project for the 4-H'er and judging classes. You may want overall appearance and specific de­ are: to include other experiences than tails of garment construction such • To coordinate textures in an those presented in this guide. as seams, collars, sleeves, hems, outfit for the total look that is No specific number of meetings waistbands, etc. becoming to the individual; is required; however, you will prob­ 3. Make a price-quality compari­ • To improve clothing purchas­ ably need a minimum of eight to son using several garments that es based on evaluation of quali­ 10 meetings to complete the materi­ differ greatly in price and quality. ty of fabric and garment fea­ al in this project. Expect members Use brand name labels as well as tures; to attend the majority of the meet­ care and fiber content labels as • To increase responsibility for ings to complete the project. As­ part of the evaluation process. Rea­ cleaning and storage of cloth­ sess members' skills at the begin­ sons for the choice would be just ing items; ning of the project to determine as important as making a choice. • To develop skills for making whether they are ready for Level The goal: determine the garment garments from special fabrics; 8. that would provide the best quali­ • To complete a garment made ty for the money. from special fabrics. 4. Evaluate garments made from This guide provides the leader special fabrics-sheer, silky fabrics, with suggestions for experiences napped or pile fabrics, quilted that will make learning easier. We fabrics, lace, or leather-like fabrics. presented basic information in the Members should consider the ­ member's guide sheet and listed -•- ability of to the fabric, overall additional resources at the end of finished appearance, and detail of this guide. The leader's guide fol­ Suggestions for workmanship. lows the format of the member's 5. Evaluate methods for clean­ guide sheet. However, you may Judging Classes ing and/or storing garments such want to use a different organiza­ 1. Evaluate the coordination of as or ties, leather or tion or combine two topics into textures in an outfit using pictures, suede , etc. one meeting. photographs or garments. Present

Things to Learn Things to Do

1. Organizational Meeting. ◊ Purpose of Level 8 project. ◊ Invite all members and parents for a brief meeting. ◊ Project needs. ◊ Hand out literature and records. ◊ Suggested achievements: ◊ Ask members to introduce themselves and tell about interests re­ -projects, demonstrations; lated to clothing. -judging with emphasis on the process rather than the project. ◊ Set up a schedule for project meetings. ◊ Ask members to develop individual goals after reading the mem­ ber's guide and report back on these at the next meeting.

1 Things to Learn Things to Do

2. Coordinating Textures in an Outfit. ◊ Texture is provided through: ◊ Illustrate different textures -fiber type; such as shiny, nubby, bulky. -yarn construction; -fabric construction; ◊ Discuss way in which manufacturers achieved texture in fabric -finishes. samples. ◊ Considerations when coordinating ◊ Demonstrate coordinating texture in an outfit for the look be­ textures in an outfit: coming to the individual. -suited to the figure; ◊ Ask members (working in small groups) to evaluate com­ -similar or pleasing contrasts; binations of texture illustrated in pictures; or -similar texture in accessories. Plan a field trip to look at store displays and/or window dis­ plays to evaluate use of texture in outfits. Look for displays of formal wear, , etc.

3. Judging Quality in Garments. ◊ Evaluating quality in fabrics: ◊ Discuss fabric and garment features and illustrate signs of qual­ -appropriate for garment; ity for each. -pieces cut "on-grain"; -same color dye lot; ◊ Plan a field trip to look at quality of ready-to-wear. -printing "on-grain"; -plaids/stripes matched; ◊ the following: ◊ Evaluating quality in garment features: Is quality related to price? -seam allowance, seam finishes, Is quality related to brand? hems, collars, sleeves, waistbands, Is quality related to store? closures.

4. Planning Suitable Cleaning and Storage for Special Garments. ◊ Cleaning and storage for: ◊ Discuss the importance of using special cleaning and storage pro- -Silk blouses, , ties and ; cedures for garments made of special fabrics such as silk, suede or -Leather and suede jackets, vests, leather. pants, accessories. ◊ Ask members to share experiences related to care of special fabrics and garments.

5. Selection of a Project. ◊ Projects for this level should be gar­ ◊ Discuss project ideas presented in member's guide and those in­ ments made from special fabrics dis­ cluded in the state list. cussed in member's guide.

◊ Considerations include: ◊ Ask members to buy fabric, pattern, and notions within a speci­ -suitability of pattern; fied time period. -quality and appropriateness of con- struction techniques; -total appearance of the finished gar­ ment.

◊ Communication of concepts and ◊ Discuss ideas for member demonstrations: skills learned in project through dem­ -coordinating textures in an outfit; onstrations by members. -judging quality in garments; -planning suitable storage for special garments; -sewing skills used in working with special fabrics.

2 Things to Learn Things to Do

6. Developing Skills for Making Garments from Special Fabrics. ◊ Types of special fabrics: ◊ Illustrate fabrics that represent each of the types discussed in the -special knit fabrics; member's guide sheet. -leather-like fabrics; -napped and pile fabrics; ◊ Discuss considerations involved when making garments from -sheer, silky fabrics; these fabrics. -lace and openwork fabrics; -quilted fabrics.

◊ Considerations for: ◊ Look at garments made of special fabrics and evaluate the suit­ -choosing pattern for fabric; ability of pattern to fabric. -selecting notions; -handling the fabric; ◊ Discuss the importance of selecting notions and equipment ap­ -cutting out the fabric; propriate for the fabric. -marking the fabric; -stitching the fabric; ◊ Plan a field trip to look at fabrics, patterns and notions needed -pressing and finishing. for the project. ◊ Demonstrate techniques for cutting, marking, stitching, pressing and finishing fabrics that members are using.

◊ Evaluation of finished garment. ◊ Critique garments with consideration for skills involved in total look of the finished garment.

Resources Focus on Fashion 8

Simplicity Sewing Book, Simplici­ ty Pattern Co., Inc., 200 Madison Avenue, New York, N. Y. 10016. ($4. 95 in paperback) Clothing and textiles guides avail­ able from your local extension cen­ ter or Extension Publications, 115 S. Fifth St., University of Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211. (no charge): GH0637 Ready-To-Wear Quality Signals GH0644 Clothing Dollars and Teenagers GH0771 Dressing Slim 4-H Member's Guidesheets: Y5215 Focus on Fashion 5 Pattern books available from lo­ cal fabric stores.

3 Focus on Fashion 9 Leader's Guide

The Focus on Fashion 9 project is ences to make learning easier, but an advanced level project designed don't limit yourself to those we Suggestions for for the 4-H member who has mas­ have included. The organization Judging Classes tered the skills and understands of the leader's guide follows the concepts presented in earlier levels. format of the member's guidesheet. 1. Evaluation of a lined vs. un­ The goals of this project are: However, you may change the or­ lined garment such as a , • To improve ability to use line der or combine two topics into one involving a price quality compari­ effectively for the silhouette; meeting. This manual includes son and use of label information. • To make smart purchase deci­ project ideas as well as sugges­ 2. Evaluation of quality of sions related to lined and un­ tions for member demonstrations bonded, laminated, quilted and lined garments; and judging classes. chem-stitched fabrics. Members • To assume increased responsi­ The leader should conduct the should consider type of garment bility for condition of clothes; meetings unless otherwise speci­ in which it is used. • To evaluate quality of multi­ fied. This project requires no spe­ 3. Evaluation of the quality of ple layer fabrics as alterna­ cific number of meetings; however, construction in a lined garment tives to lining; you will probably need a mini­ such as one completed for this • To complete a project using mum of eight to 10 meetings to project. Members should consider new sewing skills. complete the material in the project. the stitching and pressing of seams The member's guide sheet pre­ Expect members to attend the ma­ and darts, finishing of hem and sents basic information for this jority of the meetings in to overall appearance. project and we have listed addi­ complete the project. Assess mem­ 4. Evaluation of the effective use tional resources at the end of this bers' skills at the beginning of the of line on the silhouette using ei­ guide. The leader's guide provides project to determine whether they ther pictures from catalogs and you with suggestions for experi- are ready for Level 9. magazines, or actual garments. ---•---

Things to Learn Things to Do

1. Organizational Meeting. ◊ Purpose of Level 9 project. Invite all members and parents for a brief meeting.

◊ Project needs. Hand out literature and records.

◊ Suggested achievements: Ask members to introduce themselves and tell about interests re­ -projects, demonstrations; lated to clothing. -judging with emphasis on the process rather than the project. Set up a schedule for project meetings.

Ask members to develop individual goals after reading the mem­ ber's guide and report back on these at the next meeting.

2. Effect of Line on the Silhouette. ◊ Three major sets of lines: ◊ Demonstrate the effect of each to determine those lines that have -body lines; dominance over others. -silhouette lines; -garment-detail lines.

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◊ Effect of line on the figure: ◊ Discuss the effect of the direction of lines with respect to spacing, -vertical lines; boldness, etc. -horizontal lines; -diagonal lines.

◊ Use ofline to conceal figure problems. ◊ Demonstrate use of line to conceal figure problems such as large hips, large bust, large , etc.

3. Price-Quality Comparison for Lined and Unlined Garments. ◊ Reasons for buying/making lined gar- ◊ Discuss reasons for having a lining in a garment as presented in ments. member's guidesheet.

◊ Considerations when making a decision ◊ Plan a field trip to a clothing store to make price-quality compari­ to buy a lined or unlined garment. sons for lined and unlined garments; or Ask members to do a price-quality comparison at different stores and report back at the next meeting. Summarize results of price-quality comparisons.

4. Cleaning Methods for Wool and Synthetic Fabrics. ◊ Comparison of characteristics of wool ◊ Discuss the fiber properties of wool and synthetic fibers. compared to other fabrics. ◊ Illustrate shrinkage properties of wool using an example of a wool that has shrunk. ◊ Alternative cleaning methods: -machine washing; ◊ Demonstrate and compare procedures for machine and hand -hand washing; washing wool and synthetics. -dry cleaning.

◊ Guides for selection of suitable clean­ ◊ Ask members to evaluate labels working in small groups and re­ ing method: commend cleaning procedure. -fiber content; -care instructions on label; -relative cost of garment; ◊ Discuss ways this might differ for individuals considering in­ -individual's clothing care budget. come, time available, and garment use.

5. Removal of Spots and Stains. ◊ Considerations for effective spot and ◊ Discuss the importance of each of the considerations. stain removal: -fiber content; -type of stain; ◊ Demonstrate spot and stain removal techniques. -washability of fabric.

◊ Points to emphasize: ◊ Ask members to use procedures in removing stains from family -remove spots promptly; member's garment and report back on his/her success. -use good ventilation; -stay with safe methods; -test hidden area first.

6. Alternatives to Lined Garments. ◊ Types of multilayer fabrics: ◊ Illustrate examples of each type and discuss appropriate uses. -bonded fabrics; -laminated fabrics; -quilted fabrics; ◊ Discuss advantages and disadvantages of using these fabrics in -chem-stitched fabrics. garments compared to using lining in garments.

5 Things to Learn Things to Do

7. Selection of a Project. ◊ Complete a project using new skills: ◊ Discuss ideas for projects with members including those in mem­ -separate lining; ber's guide and county and exhibit categories. -new placket techniques; -pleats. ◊ Plan a field trip to look at suitable patterns and fabric.

◊ Ask members to select pattern and fabric for a project within the next week or two.

◊ Communication of concepts and skills ◊ Discuss ideas for member demonstrations: learned in project through demonstra­ -effect of line on silhouette; tions by members. -judging quality in lined vs. unlined garments; -spot and stain removal; -new sewing skills.

8. New Sewing Skills. ◊ Pleating in fullness: ◊ Demonstrate procedure for making each type of pleat. -knife pleats; -box pleats; ◊ Discuss the importance of checking fit before pleats are sewn or -inverted pleats. pressed.

◊ New placket techniques: ◊ Demonstrate placket techniques that members have not used. -fly front; -separating zipper; ◊ Illustrate the use of each in different patterns. -tab front closure.

◊ Making a garment with a separate lin­ ◊ Demonstrate techniques in making and attaching a lining to the ing: garment. -jackets; -vests; ◊ Discuss techniques related to each member's specific pattern. -pants or .

◊ Evaluation of finished garment. ◊ Critique garments with consideration for skills involved in total look of the finished garment.

Resources Focus on Fashion 9 Simplicity Sewing Book, 1984, Sim­ (no charge): plicity Pattern Co., Inc., 200 Madi­ GH0637 Ready-to-Wear Quality son Avenue, New York N. Y. 10016. Signals ($4. 95 in paperback) GH0771 Dressing Slim Singer Sewing Essentials, 1984, Cy MP0037 Stain Removal From DeCosse Incorporated, 5900 Green Washable Fabrics Oak Drive, Minnetonka, Minneso­ 4-H member's guidesheets: ta 55343. ($5. 95 in paperback) Y5213 Focus on Fashion 3 Clothing and textiles guide sheets Y5214 Focus on Fashion 4 available from your local extension Y5215 Focus on Fashion 5 center or Extension Publications, Pattern books available at local 115 S. Fifth St., University of fabric stores. Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211.

6 Focus on Fashion 10 Leader's Guide

Focus on Fashion 10 is an ad­ periences; however, don't limit vanced level project designed as yourself to the activities suggested Suggestions for an optional one for the 4-H'er who in this guide. The organization of Judging Classes has the interest and necessary lev­ the leader's guide follows the for­ 1. Make a decision when select­ el of skills for making a formal mat of the member's guide sheet. ing formal wear based on choices wear garment(s). The goals of this You need not follow the organiza­ available: buying a new garment, project for the 4-H'er are: tion presented if another one seems making a garment, buying a used • To become more skilled in se­ better for your group. We have lecting styles, fabrics and col­ included project ideas as well as garment, renting a garment. Pre­ ors suited to the figure and suggestions for member demon­ sent a situation such as: someone has been asked to the , it is personal coloring; strations. • To use consumer skills in de­ The leader will conduct the learn­ only two weeks away, she/he has a ciding on the best alternative ing experience unless otherwise somewhat limited income, but ex­ choice when selecting formal specified. This project does not cellent sewing skills. Choices could be ranked such as best, next best, wear; require a specific number of meet­ etc. with reasons given. Evaluate • To assume increased responsi­ ings; however, you will probably bility for care of clothes; need a minimum of eight to 10 in whether the decision would be dif­ ferent for guys than girls. • To complete a project that can order to complete all of the topics be worn for formal or semi­ included. Expect members to at­ 2. Evaluate the appropriateness formal occasions. tend a majority of the meetings in of the fabric for the design in The member's guide sheet pre­ order to complete the project. As­ formal wear using pictures from sents basic information for this sess members' skills at the begin­ magazines, photographs or actual project and additional resources ning of the project to determine garments. are listed at the end of this guide. whether they are ready for this 3. Evaluate the appropriateness The leader's guide provides you level. of accessories used with different formal wear garments with rea­ with suggestions for learning ex- sons given to substantiate. 4. Evaluate the total effect of formal wear outfits including quali­ ty of workmanship, appropriate­ ness of fabric to design and choice --•-- of accessories.

Things to Learn Things to Do

1. Organizational Meeting ◊ Purpose of Level 10 project. ◊ Invite all members and parents for a brief meeting.

◊ Project needs. ◊ Hand out literature and records.

◊ Suggested achievements: ◊ Ask members to introduce themselves and tell about interests re­ -projects, demonstrations; lated to clothing. -judging with emphasis on the process rather than the project. ◊ Set up a schedule for project meetings.

◊ Ask members to develop individual goals after reading the mem­ ber's guide and report back on these at the next meeting.

7 Things to Learn Things to Do

2. Selecting Formal Wear. ◊ Options for formal wear: ◊ Discuss each of the options in relation to: -buy a new garment; -variety available (color, style, fabric); -make a new garment; -quality of garment; -buy a used garment; -cost per wearing. -rent formal wear.

◊ Guidelines for selection: ◊ Ask members to look at pictures in fashion magazines and cata­ -becoming style and color; logs to find colors, styles and fabrics becoming to them. -appropriate fabric; -good fit; ◊ Evaluate choices which each one makes based on personal col­ -quality relative to price; oring, figure and personality. -versatility.

◊ Ask members to look at clothing stores in the next few weeks to find good designs, colors and fabrics used in garments.

3. Cleaning and Storage for Formal Wear. ◊ Considerations for: Discuss suitable methods for cleaning, pressing and storing -cleaning; formal wear garments. -spot removal; -pressing; Demonstrate pressing techniques recommended for silk and -storage. synthetic fabrics often used in formal wear.

4. Fabrics Used in Formal Wear. ◊ Identification of fabrics often used for ◊ Illustrate examples of some of the fabrics listed in member's formal wear. guide sheet and/or

◊ Plan a field trip to a fabric store that carries fabrics appropriate for formal wear.

◊ Considerations in selecting fabric: Look at different fabrics in relation to each of the considerations -style of garment; listed. -mood of the occasion; -personality of individual; -figure.

5. Choosing Accessories for Formal Wear. ◊ Considerations: ◊ Discuss each of the considerations and illustrate examples of each -Accessories should enhance the outfit using pictures in fashion magazines. but not overwhelm it; -Accessories should be appropriate for ◊ Ask members working in groups to evaluate the effect achieved the fabric and style of garment; through accessories: (use pictures in fashion magazines) -Accessories should express your per­ -appropriate to garment; sonality and be appropriate to the -enhanced or overwhelmed the garment. figure.

◊ Accessory items: -; ◊ Demonstrate the use of several accessory items with formal wear -; garments to emphasize appropriateness. -jewelry; -; -flowers; -scarves; -belts.

8 Things to Learn Things to Do

6. Selection of a Project. ◊ Completion of a project using new ◊ Discuss ideas for projects with members including those in mem­ skills: ber's guide sheet and county and state fair exhibit categories. -special handling techniques for cut­ ting, marking and sewing formal ◊ Ask members to select pattern and fabric within a week or two wear fabrics. so they can begin working on the project.

◊ Communication of concepts and skills ◊ Discuss ideas for member demonstrations: learned in project through demonstra­ -selecting formal wear and formal wear fabrics; tions by members. -special handling techniques when sewing formal wear; -sewing skills such as seam finishes and hems.

7. Special Handling Techniques and New Sewing Skills. Considerations: ◊ Discuss the importance of each of the considerations when -handle fabric carefully; making formal wear. -have cutting and sewing equipment in excellent condition; ◊ Demonstrate techniques for seams and seam finishes, hemming -use appropriate seams, seam finishes techniques, and pressing procedures that members have not and hemming techniques for fabric; used. -use appropriate pressing procedures to avoid damaging fabric.

◊ Evaluation of finished garment. ◊ Critique garments with consideration for sewing skills, choice of pattern and fabric for the total look of the finished garment on the individual.

Resources Focus on Fashion 10

Simplicity Sewing Book, 1984, Sim­ GH0644 Clothing Dollars and plicity Pattern Co., Inc., 200 Madi­ Teenagers son Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10016. GH0771 Dressing Slim ($4.95 in paperback) GH0634 Accessories Make the Singer Sewing Essentials, 1984, Cy Difference DeCosse Incorporated, 5900 Green 4-H member's guide sheets: Oak Drive, Minnetonka, Minneso­ Y5212 Focus on Fashion 2 ta 55343. ($5 .95 in paperback) Y5216 Focus on Fashion 6 Clothing and textiles guide sheets Y5218 Focus on Fashion 8 available from your local extension Pattern books available at local center or Extension Publications, fabric stores. 115 S. Fifth St., University of Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211. (no charge):

9 Focus on Fashion 11 Leader's Guide

Focus on Fashion 11 is an ad­ guide sheet contains basic informa­ vanced level project for the 4-H tion, and we have listed additional Suggestions for member who is interested in select­ resources at the end of this guide. Judging Classes ing and making tailored garments. The organization of the leader's 1. Evaluate the quality of a tai­ The goals for the 4-H'er in this guide follows that of the member's lored garment, either hand made project are: guide sheet. However, you may or ready made. Use criteria dis­ • To learn shopping skills in want to change the order of pre­ cussed in member's guide sheet buying and coordinating tai­ sentation or combine more than for ranking garments. lored outfits including selec­ one topic into a single meeting. 2. Evaluate the total look of a tion of appropriate style and Unless otherwise specified, the tailored ensemble. Consider appro­ color as well as judging quality; leader should conduct the meet­ priateness of style, fabric, color • To assume increased responsi­ ings. This manual includes project and accessories. bility for clothes care; ideas as well as suggestions for 3. Evaluate garments. Members • To become more knowledge­ member demonstrations and judg­ may use either the traditional or able about selecting fabrics and ing classes. You will probably need contemporary method. Group the components for tailored gar­ to plan a minimum of eight to 10 two methods separately. Don't com­ ments; sessions in order to complete the pare traditional tailored garments • To complete a project using material in the project. Expect mem­ to contemporary tailored ones. traditional or contemporary bers to attend a majority of the 4. Evaluate the compatibility of tailoring methods. meetings to complete the project. components used in the tailored This guide provides suggestions You will need to assess members' garment. Consider weight, stiff­ for learning experiences, but you skills at the beginning of the project ness, washability, etc. may want to include others of in­ to determine whether they are 5. Evaluate out-of- clean­ terest to the group. The member's ready for this level. ing and storage methods used for --•-- tailored garments.

Things to Learn Things to Do

1. Organizational Meeting. ◊ Purpose of Level 11 project. ◊ Invite all members and parents for a brief meeting.

◊ Project needs. ◊ Hand out literature and records.

◊ Suggested achievements: ◊ Ask members to introduce themselves and tell about interests -projects, demonstrations; related to clothing. -judging with emphasis on the process rather than the project. ◊ Set up a schedule for project meetings.

◊ Ask members to develop individual goals after reading the mem­ ber's guide and report back on these at the next meeting.

2. Coordination of the Tailored Ensemble. ◊ Definition and description of tailored ◊ Define tailoring and discuss the purpose of using tailoring tech­ garments including: niques in garment construction. -hard tailoring; -soft tailoring.

10 Things to Learn Things to Do

◊ Selection of a tailored garment: ◊ Discuss the importance of each when choosing a tailored gar­ -fabric; ment. -color; ◊ Find pictures to illustrate good choices of fabric, color, and style -style. for tailored garments.

◊ Selection of accent garments and acces­ ◊ Demonstrate the use of garments and accessories to accent sories to coordinate with the tailored a suit or in a basic color. garment(s).

◊ Discuss appropriate to enhance the wearer's proportions and to contribute to the total effect.

3. Judging Quality in a Tailored Garment. ◊ Methods used in tailoring; ◊ Discuss each method in relation to: -traditional; -price; -contemporary. -quality; -availability.

◊ Evaluation of quality in tailored gar­ ◊ Plan a field trip to a department or specialty store to make price­ ments. quality comparisons following the guide in the member's guide sheet. ◊ Considerations for a good fit in a tail­ ored garment.

4. Cleaning and Storage for Tailored Garments. ◊ In-season storage. ◊ Discuss in-season and out-of-season storage for tailored garments.

◊ Out-of-season storage. ◊ Ask members to make suggestions for storage procedures used.

◊ Considerations when cleaning: ◊ Look at labels on tailored garments to check washability. -fiber content; -washability of all components. ◊ Discuss the importance of professional cleaning and pressing for tailored garments.

5. Components of the Tailored Garment. ◊ Components of the garment: ◊ Illustrate each of the component fabrics using tailored garments. -fashion fabric; -interfacing; ◊ Discuss the importance of each in the structure of the garment. -underlining (optional); -interlining (optional).

◊ Notions used in tailoring: ◊ Illustrate notions and discuss the use of each in the garment. -twill tape; -shoulder pads; -buttons; -sleeve heads.

6. Selecting a Project. ◊ Completion of a garment(s) using ◊ Discuss ideas for projects with members including those in either: member's guide sheet and county and state fair exhibit cate­ -traditional tailoring; gories. -contemporary tailoring.

11 Things to Learn Things to Do

◊ Considerations when selecting a pat­ ◊ Review the items member's should consider when selecting a pat­ tern and fabric: tern and fabric for the tailored garment. -your figure; -your personal coloring; -appropriateness of fabric to pattern; -method of tailoring used. ◊ Ask members to select pattern and fabric for a project within the next week or two.

◊ Communication of concepts and skills ◊ Discuss ideas for member demonstrations: learned in project through demonstra­ -coordinating the tailored outfit; tions by members. -buying skills when selecting a tailored garment; -tailoring techniques, both traditional and speed.

7. Tailoring Techniques. ◊ Methods of tailoring: ◊ Discuss each method and demonstrate techniques that members -traditional; will be using in tailoring. -contemporary or speed.

◊ New techniques used: ◊ Suggest that members practice new skills before tailoring a gar­ -pad stitching ment for their project. (hand and machine); -application of twill tape; -construction/application of sleeve heads; -application of supporting fabrics.

◊ Evaluation of finished garment. ◊ Critique garments with consideration for skills involved in the total look of the finished garment.

Resources Focus on Fashion 11

Simplicity Sewing Book, 1984, Sim­ GH0711 Men's Wear I: Body Di­ plicity Pattern Co., Inc., 200 Madi­ mensions & son Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10016. Coordination ($4. 95 in paperback) GH0712 Men's Wear II: Garment Clothing and textiles guide sheets Fit, Quality & Care available from your local extension 4-H member's guide sheets: center or Extension Publications, Y5212 Focus on Fashion 2 115 S. Fifth St., University of Y5214 Focus on Fashion 4 Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211. Y5219 Focus on Fashion 9 (no charge): Pattern books available from lo­ GH0637 Ready-To-Wear Quality cal fabric stores. Signals

12 Focus on Fashion 12 Leader's Guide

The Focus on Fashion 12 project is The leader's guide follows the Suggestions for an advanced level designed for the format of the member's guide 4-H' er primarily interested in plan­ sheet. However, leaders may change Judging Classes ning a wardrobe with emphasis on the organization, combine more selection, coordination and care of than one topic or add additional 1. Evaluate several different clothes. Sewing skills are not in­ topics. Use the member's guide combinations of clothes to deter­ cluded in this level except those sheet as a resource along with oth­ mine which will offer the most required in making alterations to er resources listed at the end of versatility for the money spent. ready-made clothes. Members who this guide. Make other Focus on Considerations include versatile enroll in this project should be Fashion guide sheets referred to in items, classic styles, narrow color high school level 4-H'ers who have the member's guide sheet avail­ focus and care required. completed the Focus on Fashion 7 able to members who may not 2. Evaluate the coordination of project. Goals for the 4-H'er are: have them. clothes and accessories to create a • To plan a wardrobe suited to You will probably need to plan total look; consider use of color, the individual; on eight to 10 project meetings to line and texture. Design principles • To coordinate outfits for work, adequately complete each topic. will serve as a guide for evaluation. formal wear and other oc­ Members must attend a majority 3. Evaluate suitability of clean­ casions; of the meetings to complete the ing and/or storage for tailored • To become responsible for care project. Unless otherwise specified, garments, formal wear and acces­ of tailored garments, formal the leader should conduct the sories. wear and accessories includ­ meetings. We marked project ideas 4. Select appropriate stain re­ ing use of stain removal tech­ and demonstrations for members moval method for a particular stain niques; with an asterisk (*) and included on a washable fabric. • To understand special fabrics suggestions for judging classes. 5. Evaluate the alteration meth­ and finishes; However, do not limit yourself to od used for adjusting sleeve length • To take responsibility for alter­ the projects, demonstrations and or length according to guide­ ations to clothes. experiences in this guide. lines presented in this project.

Things to Learn Things to Do

1. Organizational Meeting. ◊ Purpose of Level 12 project. ◊ Invite all members and parents for a brief meeting.

◊ Project needs. ◊ Hand out literature and records.

◊ Suggested achievements: ◊ Ask members to introduce themselves and tell about interests re­ -projects, demonstrations; lated to clothing. -judging with emphasis on the process rather than the project. ◊ Set up a schedule for project meetings.

◊ Ask members to develop individual goals after reading the member's guide and report back on these at the next meeting.

2. Planning a Workable Wardrobe.

◊ How to: ◊ Discuss the advantages of planning a workable wardrobe and -do a wardrobe inventory; the importance of each item. -analyze yourself; -consider your lifestyle; ◊ Ask members to begin planning by doing a wardrobe inven­ -decide on a color focus; tory before the next project meeting.

13 Things to Learn Things to Do

-look for versatile clothes; -stay with more classic styles; ◊ Suggest that members plan new clothing purchases to extend -consider clothes care; current wardrobe and rank in order of greatest need. -choose versatile accessories. ◊ Demonstrate use of versatile accessories to coordinate with sev­ eral outfits.

◊ Contrast pictures of latest fads and with those of classic styles.

◊ List advantages and disadvantages of each.

* Suggestions for projects and demon­ * Make a wardrobe inventory with a plan for new clothing and strations for members. accessory purchases, color focus, self-analysis, etc.

* Demonstrate ways in which you can extend clothing dollars.

3. Coordinating Color, Pattern, Line and Texture. ◊ Color: ◊ Experiment with color to find each member's best colors. -suited to the individual; -combinations including patterns, stripes, and plaids; ◊ Demonstrate combining colors, including patterned fabrics, in -accents. pleasing combinations.

◊ Line: -pleasing combinations; ◊ Illustrate the effect of vertical and horizontal lines on the figure. -becoming to the figure.

◊ Texture: -pleasing combinations; ◊ Illustrate texture of different fabrics and experiment to find -suitable to the figure; pleasing combinations. -appropriate for mood of the outfit.

◊ Coordination of accessories with outfit. ◊ Demonstrate use of accessories with different outfits.

◊ Design principles as guides to judging ◊ Evaluate the overall look of different outfits on people or in pic­ the total look: tures. -proportion; -balance; ◊ Consider proportion, balance, emphasis, rhythm and unity for -emphasis; each. -rhythm; -unity.

* Suggestions for projects and demon­ * Coordinate an outfit for a special occasion or mood with con­ strations for members. sideration for color, line and texture.

* Use accessories to change the mood of an outfit.

4. Care, Cleaning and Storage for Clothes and Accessories. ◊ Tailored garments: ◊ Discuss advantages of having tailored garments dry-cleaned. -daily and weekly care; -cleaning and spot removal; -seasonal care and storage. ◊ Plan a field trip to a professional dry-cleaners to observe cleaning, pressing, and spot removal techniques used.

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◊ Formal wear: -cleaning and storage.

◊ Accessories-shoes, handbags, ◊ Discuss storage and cleaning tips for different accessory items. scarves, ties, belts, jewelry: -cleaning and storage.

* Suggestionsforprojectsanddemon­ * Plan suitable accessory storage. strations for members. * Plan out-of-season storage for tailored garments and/or formal wear.

5. Spot and Stain Removal. ◊ It is a good idea to: ◊ Discuss stain removal procedures for different kinds of stains. -know the fiber content; -know what type of stain; ◊ Demonstrate techniques for spot removal in washable fabrics. -select appropriate method to use for the stain and fabric; ◊ Suggest members practice stain removal from washable clothes -test hidden area of fabric first for before next meeting. colorfastness and damage to fabric; -use tested methods.

* Suggested projects and demon­ * Make a poster illustrating stain removal techniques for different strations for members. types of stains.

* Demonstrate spot removal techniques for washable fabrics discussed in #MP0037.

6. Fabric Finishes. ◊ Types of finishes: ◊ Illustrate examples of finishes that change the appearance or 1) thosethatchangetheappearanceor hand of the fabric and those that influence fabric/garment per­ hand: formance. -napping; -mercerizing; -sizing; -glazing; -calendering.

2) those that improve the performance ◊ Discuss the finishes that improve performance of fabrics in­ of the fabric for its intended use: cluding the kinds of information consumers should know about -stain resistant finishes: -durable press; -trade names; -flame retardant; -special care to preserve finish; -water repellent. -durability of the finish.

7. Alterations for Clothes. ◊ Types of alterations: ◊ Discuss the importance of making alterations to garments; -changing sleeve length; -better fit; -changing jacket length. -update for current fashion; -extend clothing budget.

◊ Demonstrate techniques for alterations in member's guide sheet.

◊ Review those techniques discussed in earlier Focus on Fashion guide sheets as well as others members may want to try.

15 Things to Learn Things to Do

* Suggestions for projects and demon­ * Make alterations to one or more garments with a description of strations for members. the reason for making the alteration, steps in doing it, etc.

8. Career Exploration. ◊ Careers in the fashion industry: ◊ Discuss various careers in the fashion industry including those -manufacturing; listed here. -retailing; -home sewing industry; ◊ Ask a person who has a career in the fashion industry to be a -handcraft industry; guest speaker for your project meeting or plan a field trip to a -personal care; retail store or another type of industry that might offer po­ -planning and promotion; tential careers for the members. -theater; -education; -museums; -clothing maintenance; -free lance.

* Suggestion for a project for members. * Find out more about careers associated with the fashion in­ dustry through personal interview, spending a day on the job, etc.

Resources Focus on Fashion 12 4-H member's guide sheets: GH0133 The Care of Your Clothes Y5216 Focus on Fashion 6 .. . Home Y5217 Focus on Fashion 7 GH0634 Accessories Make the Y5219 Focus on Fashion 9 Difference Clothing and textiles guide sheets GH0644 Clothing Dollars and available from your local extension Teenagers center or Extension Publications, GH0992 Building a Workable 115 S. Fifth St., University of Wardrobe Missouri, Columbia, MO 65211. Clothes Sense by Barbara Weiland (no charge): & Leslie Wood, Palmer/Pletsch As­ MP0037 Stain Removal from sociates, P.O. Box 12046, Portland, Washable Fabrics OR 97212

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■ Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture. John W. Oren, Director, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Missouri and Lincoln University, Columbia, Missouri 65211 . ■ An equal opportunity institution.

LG 5212 University Libraries University of Missouri

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