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HERTFORDSHIRE’S
Pints of View The bi-monthly publication for every discerning drinker
October/November 2008 Circulation 7500 No. 231
The Sun Shines on Herts Festivals See our North and South Herts Beer
Festivals special Features Pages 15 - 20
The trip to Sheringham
that never was Page 25
Focus on the Estcourt Arms, Watford Page 29
Accreditation Scheme for Herts ales Page 3 PLUS: Pub and brewery news from around the county, features, and lots more!
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Local Ale Accreditation Scheme Launched AMRA has launched a new accreditation stocking a local real ale by their lease or tenancy scheme to promote pubs that sell locally- agreement that requires them to purchase real ales C brewed real ale, reducing the number of only from a central list. The situation however is 'beer miles' and supporting your local breweries. improving. The Society of Independent Brewers’ Called LocAle, it is all about increasing the sale of Direct Delivery Scheme allows an increasing local real ales in local number of Punch pubs. Taverns, Enterprise Inns The benefits of a and Admiral Taverns successful CAMRA LocAle lessees the option of scheme are: stocking a real ale from • Improved consumer a local brewer. choice due to more The objective of the locally brewed real LocAle scheme is to ales being available in pubs ensure that all accredited pubs have a minimum of • Local brewers selling more real ale allowing one local real ale on sale at all times. There will them to expand, benefiting the local economy however be times where this is not possible due to and real ale choice the llocal real ale selling out faster than expected or • Fewer “beer miles” resulting in less road because the cask is being changed. congestion and pollution In South Hertfordshire the pubs below regularly • Thriving pubs due to the wider availability of sell a CAMRA defined real ale brewed in local real ales in pubs boosting the number of Hertfordshire: pub visits Harpenden: Amble Inn - Red Squirrel • An increase in local identity and pride Hertford: Old Cross - Red Squirrel, Great Eastern In short LocAle is about consumer choice, local Tavern — McMullen. jobs, supporting a sustainable environment, South Mimms: White Hart - McMullens creating local distinctiveness and promoting local St. Albans: pubs. Cross Keys — Tring, Farmers Boy — Alehouse, The scheme was created in 2007 by CAMRA’s Farriers Arms — McMullen, Hare & Hounds - Red Nottingham branch, who wanted to support their Squirrel, Mermaid — Tring, Lower Red Lion — remaining local brewers following the closure of Alehouse, Waterend Barn — Tring local brewer Hardy’s and Hanson’s by Greene Ware: Crown King. LocAle is there to promote pubs selling a Wheathampstead: Nelson - McMullen locally-brewed real ale, on sale at all times Wildhill: Woodman - McMullen throughout the year and in perfect condition. This list of course is not exhaustive, but please let In Hertfordshire that means a pint brewed within us have further nominations so that we can publish twenty miles of the pub where it is sold. a formal list of accredited LocAle pubs covering The Sustainable Communities Act, which CAMRA the whole county. Up-to-date information was on strongly supports, provides a definition of local as display at our recent St Albans Beer Festival. up to 30 miles from the place of sale. We have set a slightly stricter limit. Brewers Raise their Prices for Unfortunately some real ale is delivered 50 miles away to a distribution centre before being the Second Time this Year delivered back to a pub only ten miles away from Daily Telegraph, 14 September 2008 the brewery. Because the brewery is local to the arston's, the Midlands-based brewer, has pub then the real ale still qualifies as a local real added 10p to the price of a pint and ale. Encouraging more pubs to serve local real ales MTetley's will follow suit in the first week is the first step to reducing “beer miles”. As of October. licensees become more familiar with their local "We have done everything possible to limit the breweries they will be more likely to arrange direct price increase, but there have been unprecedented delivery. Some licensees are prevented from levels of increases in raw materials in recent
3 months," said Stephen Oliver, managing director of Marston's Beer Company. The price of barley and the metal used in cans has risen by more than half in the past two years. The company's energy costs have jumped 150 per cent in some areas. Lagers such as Stella Artois, Beck's and Tennent's, all owned by InBev, have gone up by 3p a pint in September, with a similar increase for Carling and Grolsch. Although the average price of a pint of lager is now around £2.82, drinkers in London and the South East will be paying significantly more. "The current wave of price increases means £4 a pint will be far more commonplace this year," said a spokesman for the British Beer & Pub Association. Ed Says: The price increases may be genuine but £4 a pint - I don’t think so. Let’s face it; the price of metal for cans, most of which are sold at discounted prices in the off trade shouldn’t worry us. Of course our friends the brewers may well pass this cost onto the pub trade to allow them to continue their subsidies. I think it is finally beginning to sink in that the price of a pint is shutting pubs, and if you have nowhere to sell your goods you are out of business. If £4 a pint is to become commonplace how is it The Strathmore Arms that Belal Hussain of the Marksman in West Bromwich, in the Midlands can sell all his beers St Pauls Walden, Nr Hitchin, SG4 8BT including Guinness and Cider at 89 pence - yes 89 01438 871654 pence per pint. He claims he can do this because [email protected] he bulk buys and takes a lower profit margin. It shows what can be done, but this only applies to the free trade. Your local is being charged more than he is selling the beer for under Tied House system mentioned in “The Bitter End” article in our last edition.
Tenants' Opposition to “Beer Tie” Mounts his year’s Market Report by the Publican
magazine has revealed that 72 per cent of
tenants would be willing to pay more rent to Hertfordshire Pub of the Year 2004 T be free-of-tie.
The annual Publican Market Report, published in Woodforde’s Wherry & London Pride + 3
August gives licensees’ views on the issues constantly changing guests, over 1900 so far affecting the industry. The report has revealed that the gap in discounts offered to the free-trade Mon 6pm–11pm, Tue–Thu 12–2:30pm, 5pm–11pm Fri/Sat 12pm–11pm, Sun 10am–10:30pm compared to tenants has grown to £26 per barrel
4 of beer. move the blame of the company’s demise to the Lincolnshire brewer Bateman’s has announced it is Chancellor and the 4 pence per pint tax increase. scrapping rent reviews from its tenancy Plight of Lessees: He seems to finally be slightly agreements. Instead it will offer a fixed rate concerned about the plight of his licensees, and agreement which will allow tenants to have although his company have sent in bailiffs to evict complete certainty about their future and the a large number of tenants from their pubs, it is knowledge that their endeavours will not be offering a £10m package of rent concessions and 'rewarded' by a significant upward rent review. drinks discounts. The £10m in all fairness is too The “Fair Pint” campaign is trying to reassure little too late - if you divide 8448 into £10 million tenants that the removal of the tie would not lead it works out to less than £1,200 per pub. Yes, not to a corresponding rise in rents, as rent would still all Punch’s pubs are in trouble but the ones that have to be calculated using the profit assessment are report to us that they do not get support or method. financial help from their Business Managers. We Meanwhile, Greene King is the latest to turn down highlighted the plight of Gary and Sandra Fair Pint’s invitation to meet its members before Higginbotham of the Old Fox Bricket Wood, who the start of the government inquiry later this year. since our last edition have been evicted by Punch Enterprise Inns, Punch Taverns, and Scottish and and replaced by a temporary licensee from the Newcastle Pub Enterprises have already snubbed nearby Fox & Hounds at a reduced rent. the group’s offer. The Higginbothams are not alone, and in Ed Says: Hopefully if publicans find their pubs Harpenden the bailiffs have been used on two more viable they will be able to pass some of their occasions at the Rose & Crown, Southdown. I good fortune on to the customers in the form of have spoken to the now evicted tenant Abz Kahan reduced prices at the bar. Also, relaxation of the tie who stated “I took over the lease of the pub after will mean that a publican will be able to stock the coming to an arrangement with the business drinks that their customers want - including a regional manager on rent and fixtures and fittings. better variety of real ales. It all sounds like a pub The furniture was valued at £5,000 and all was customers’ utopia. well until he was replaced. The new business manager said that he could not honour the deal I Punch in Meltdown had made in good faith and increased the rent and revalued the furniture at £13,500. When I refused unch Taverns, which has come under a great to pay the new rent they sent in the bailiffs who deal of criticism for its treatment of the took the entire pub’s fixtures and fittings. I lessees of its pubs and by CAMRA for its P managed to get some replacements and continued pricing policy and enforced lack of choice, is now to run the pub. I was then presented with a bill for in serious financial difficulties. £4,000 bailiff’s costs and told I would also be Shares in Punch, which has 8,448 leased and expected to pay the company’s legal costs. On the tenanted pubs across the UK, have recently fallen 11th September, having refused to agree the new by over 38.5 pence - a drop of 12%. Their biggest terms I was evicted and the pub is closed. I feel rival, Enterprise, who operate 7000 pubs, has also that Punch maneuvered me into this situation, seen its shares drop by 8.8%. Also dropping - which has cost me a great deal of money. And I Mitchells and Butlers (5.5%), Greene King (3.6%), hear that the intention is to sell the pub and and Wetherspoons (3.75%). convert it into an Indian restaurant. I want to stay Money Troubles: Punch has cancelled its final year in the licensed trade but will be looking for an dividend for shareholders, which analysts say is so opportunity in the Free Trade”. that it can pay off a £295m bond debt. I have The problem is that the Pubcos have got too big heard from another source that their total debt and faceless. They cannot deal with the very could be as high as £4.5 billion. diverse and individual needs of Britain’s public Giles Thorley, Punch’s chief executive said that houses and, their customers - and having got into although shares in the company have dropped financial difficulties wish to blame everyone other almost 80% in a month shareholders were than themselves for their demise. supportive of the dividend cut. He also tried to Steve Bury
5 Brewery and Pub Industry News forthcoming Letchworth Beer Festival. In addition Red Squirrel Brewery to this success, Gary has turned his hand to organizing beer festivals for others; although he Annual Report has to allow other brewers’ beers in. His first foray he so-called is coming up shortly in the area of a neighbouring credit crunch CAMRA branch. Success there may be something Tis still hitting to build upon in the future. Well done Gary. small breweries like Brian Page - CAMRA Brewery Liaison Officer Hertford’s Red Squirrel hard. The increase in the cost Success for Independent of American hops — Brewers as Craft Beer Sales an essential ingredient of Red Increase Squirrel’s popular ritain now has more breweries than at any American IPA — in the last month alone has gone time since the Second World War, up by 40%, bringing the total increase over the last Baccording below to Roger Protz, editor of six months to a staggering 300%. There is now 10 the 2009 edition of the CAMRA Good Beer Guide. pence worth of hops in every pint of AIPA “Over 70 new breweries have been founded produced. Fortunately, due to the consistent high between the 2008 and 2009 editions that follow quality of Red Squirrel beers, the brand is riding 80 new breweries in 2006 and a further 80 in high and brewery owner Gary is easily able to sell 2007. Britain now has more than 550 craft all he produces; even though price rises have been breweries and many of them are enjoying unavoidable. With a plant of 30 barrels a week spectacular growt.”. max capacity, which is producing 50 barrels a “SIBA — the Society of month; why doesn’t he make more beer I hear you Independent Brewers — which ask? The answer is that damned credit crunch represents the majority of small again. brewers — reports that in 2007 He is still operating a one-man its members saw an average show with occasional volunteer increase in sales of 11% help, and brewing takes all the while sales of Stella Artois, time he has; an extra staff the country's biggest- member would come at a selling premium lager brewed at Wrexham, fell by presently unaffordable cost, so 10%”. demand is outstripping supply. “The reason is simple: more and more drinkers are The brewery now has eight permanent outlets and looking for taste and character in beer rather than a further fifteen or so frequent users. Add to this the tasteless fizz offered by global brewers”. the many occasional and annual event customers “The craft brewing fraternity is no longer confined and there is a good basis for optimism. to the minnows. Major brewers, including Gary’s beers are achieving great Marston's of Burton-on-Trent and Wolverhampton, success at beer festivals; notably, and Fuller's of West London, have applied to join RSB and Springfield AIPA being SIBA, despite already being voted ‘beer of the festival’ by the members of the British Beer and drinkers at Boxmoor and Ealing Pub Association”. respectively, beating many The Good Beer Guide cites as national favourites in the process. examples of the success of craft Also, the London Porter came brewers: second in the ‘dark beer’ class, and was highly Wye Valley in Herefordshire, commended at the recent Leicester Beer Festival. which started life as a brew pub, Conservation Bitter was due to be judged in the moved to the former Symonds cider factory, and is East Anglia BOTY (Beer of the Year) at the now brewing close to 20,000 barrels a year.
6 Brewery and Pub Industry News Triple fff Brewery in Alton, Hampshire, winner of the Supreme Champion Beer of LLOOWWEERR RREEDD LLIIOONN Britain award at the Great British Beer Festival in August, 36 Fishpool Street began production with a five- St Albans, AL3 4RX barrel plant in 1997 and has Tel: 01727 855669 just opened a new 50-barrel brew house where it brews twice a week. See Champion Beer page 10. 17th Century Coaching Inn Moorhouse’s of Burnley, Lancs, in the shadow of St Albans Abbey. was on the point of closing in Genuine free house with 1987 but was rescued by real ales and accommodation businessman Bill Parkinson, who www.LowerRedLion.com has pumped more than £3 million in to the company. A new 8 Real Ales and 1 Real Cider brewery will come on stream in 2010, capable of 7 Ever-changing guests producing 40,000 barrels a year. Belgian and Czech on Long-established regional family breweries are also faring well. Bateman’s of Wainfleet in Lincolnshire draught dates from 1874 and had Belgian bottled beers its best year ever in 2007. Managing Director Malt Whiskies Comfortable B&B, Stuart Bateman said that Sunday Roast lunch Quiz night Wednesdays yearly beer volumes Regular beer festivals were up, sales of real ale grew by 10%, and 21 of No music or machines its pubs are showing significant growth in spite of the smoking ban and the duty increase. Its only problem is keeping pace with demand; it can produce 30,000 barrels a year but needs to increase that to 40,000 if it can squeeze in additional fermenting vessels. Timothy Taylor of Keighley, West Yorkshire, celebrates 150 years of brewing this year. Its Landlord best bitter has been named Champion Beer of Britain a record three times. In the past decade, a total of £10 million has been invested in new brewing capacity, doubling production from 30,000 barrels a year to 60,000. “These success stories show that drinkers are moving in droves to full-flavoured beers in preference to bland global lagers,” Roger Protz says. “In particular, more and more consumers are concerned with how beers are made and the ingredients used. They prefer beers made and sold locally rather than driven thousands of miles. The Seven Times Winner South Herts success of craft brewing really fits the green, CAMRA Pub of the Year carbon-conscious attitudes of modern consumers.”
7 Brewery and Pub Industry News with 85% efficiency. Two new compressors in the British Brewers are going refrigeration plant have increased efficiency by a “Green” third. Improved water efficiency and heat recovery ncreasing numbers of British brewers are mean less water is used for each brew. showing their concern for the environment and The brewery is sourcing its barley in Cornwall and saving on carbon footprints by adopting energy- having it malted at Newton Abbot in Devon. It will I install its own bottling line in 2009. “15% of our efficient methods. In one instance, ground-breaking production is now in bottle and packaging is work has been carried out by currently done in Stockport and Blackburn — both Adnams brewery in Southwold, at the other end of the country,” Roger Ryman Suffolk. The company has invested says. “So there will be a drastic reduction in our £5.8 million in a new warehouse use of diesel when we bring bottling in-house. We complex that uses solar power will also move to light-weight bottles”. and collects rainwater on the Shepherd Neame, Britain's roof that is used for cleaning and even staff oldest brewery, dating from th showers. A further £3.7 million has been spent on the 17 Century and based in the third update to the brew house in just 10 years. Faversham in Kent, is New vessels include a mashing and boiling regime determined to stop both that is energy efficient and environmentally steam and carbon dioxide friendly, with steam and water recycled. escaping to the atmosphere. The Adnams experience has so impressed CO2, a natural by-product of Wadworth, the family- fermentation, is trapped in owned brewery (left) in modern vessels, while steam is injected into the Devizes in Wiltshire coppers. “We no longer boil out the contents of that it plans to install its the copper,” says production director Ian Dixon. own energy-efficient “So there's no steam leaving the brewery. We save brew house. Several £45,000 a year for each copper.” breweries, including Brewing is one of Britain's last remaining major Hall & Woodhouse in Dorset and Greene King in industries and its regional brewers are showing Suffolk, are moving to lightweight bottles. Mark admirable concern for the environment by using Woodhouse of H&W says the use of lightweight locally-sourced ingredients, cutting back on steam glass is “the equivalent of taking 360 cars off the and CO2, and moving to lightweight bottles. road for a year”. In Cornwall, the St Winner of our Sudoku competition in Jun/Jul, Austell Brewery's Edition 229 is M. Verrells of Harlow, Essex who moves to energy wins a CAMRA 2008 Good Beer Guide. efficiency include SOLUTION BELOW: managing director James Staughton swapping his executive ‘Mercedes’ for a ‘Smart Car’. Head brewer Roger Ryman says the company's plans are aided by its success in the real ale market. “Ten years ago we were producing 15,000 barrels a year but we've grown to 45,000 barrels. The more beer we brew, the better the utilisation of our plant”. The brewery is pictured above right. St Austell has installed a new steam boiler and the result is more energy with less steam pumped into the atmosphere. A malt mill dating from 1916 was only 55% efficient and it has been replaced by one
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Beer News and Features Hampshire Ale is Champion Bronze: Highland, Orkney Blast (Orkney) Golden Ale Category Beer of Britain Gold: Otley, O1 (Mid Glamorgan) lton's Pride (3.8% ABV) of, Silver: Loddon, Ferryman's Gold (Oxfordshire) brewed by Triple fff Bronze: Skinner's, Cornish Knocker Ale (Cornwall) A Brewery in Hampshire Speciality Beer Category was judged to be the best beer in Gold: Otley, O-garden (Mid Glamorgan) Britain by a panel of brewers, Silver: Wentworth, Bumble Beer (South Yorkshire) beer writers and journalists. Bronze: Nethergate, Umbel Magna (Essex) The beer was chosen as the CAMRA Bottled-Conditioned Beers overall winner from over sixty Gold: Wye Valley, Dorothy Goodbody's finalists in seven categories (Best Wholesome Stout Bitters, Bitters, Golden Ales, Milds, Speciality, Silver: Fuller’s, 1845 Winter Beer and Strong Bitters) including beers Bronze: Wells and Young's, Special London Ale from tiny micros to major regional brewers. Winter Beer of Britain Winner (announced in Graham Trott, Head Brewer of Triple fff Brewery January 2008) Wickwar, Station Porter. said; “We are over the moon and delighted to put Alton as a brewery back on the map. I would like to thank everyone who is connected with the Britain’s Pubs are Getting brewery and we look forward to more people Creative enjoying our winning beer”. From The Independent on Sunday, 16 August 2008 The Silver award went to Black Dog Freddy from ince its conception, as a pit-stop for travellers Beckstones (Cumbria). on the Roman road system, the public house Bronze went to CAMRA's current National Winter has become an integral part of our culture: Beer of Britain winner, Station Porter from the S "the heart of England", as Samuel Pepys once Wickwar Brewery (Gloucestershire). observed. And yet, the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) reports that an average of 57 pubs a Complete List of Winners month in the UK are now facing permanent Champion Beer of Britain: Triple fff, Alton’s Pride closure. So, is this really a case of last orders for (Hampshire) the beloved boozer? "People are not drinking in Second: Beckstones, Black Dog Freddy (Cumbria) the same way that they used to," says Jill Gibson, Third: Wickwar, Station Porter (Gloucestershire) landlord of the Land of Liberty, Peace and Plenty Mild Category pub in Hertfordshire, "and for many publicans, it is Gold: Beckstones, Black Dog Freddy (Cumbria) easier to cash in on their investment now than risk Silver: Rudgate, Ruby Mild (York) trying to carry on the business." A bleak forecast Bronze: Rhymney, Dark (Merthyr Tydfil) indeed; but where did it all go so wrong? Bitter Category A name not far from many a landlord's lips — Gold: -Triple fff, Alton's Pride (Hampshire) particularly those who displayed posters with the Silver: Lees, Bitter (Manchester) words "Barred: Not Welcome in this Pub" next to Joint Bronze: Jarrow, Rivet Catcher (Tyne & Wear) the chancellor's smirking face — is that of Alistair and Surrey Hills, Ranmore Ale (Surrey) Darling. This year's budget, with its 4p per pint rise Best Bitter Category in beer duty, as well as 14p on a bottle of wine Gold: Skinner's, Betty Stogs (Cornwall) and 55p on spirits, was met with outrage from Silver: Highland, Scapa Special (Orkney) publicans nationwide. Darling's decision was, he Bronze: Cairngorm, Nessie’s Monster Mash claims, an effort to counter the so-called Binge (Highlands) and Timothy Taylor, Landlord (West Britain epidemic, but critics suggest that public Yorkshire). houses are the ones being hit, not the consumers. Strong Bitter Category The effect of this is to drive consumers away from Gold: Thornbridge, Jaipur IPA (Derbyshire) the pub and into their armchair to drink cheap Silver: Fuller's, ESB (London) alcohol. The smoking ban, too, has been held
10 Beer News and Features partially responsible for this change in drinking day. It's a drop-in service, so people turn up and habits. hope that she is free. It is only £9 per cut, which is But it's not all bad news. From the gin palaces of a bargain for London, so if Arlene's busy, most Victorian England to the gastro-pubs of the customers are happy to wait around until she is Nineties, landlords have always adapted to the finished. That means they sit at the bar and have a times. And while some are calling time, others are drink or two, which means a little extra money for finding creative ways to fine-tune their survival us. Any way of making yourself stand out, at a time skills. So forget such mundane "innovations" as like this, can only be a good thing; especially 375ml glasses and wasabi snacks; as these case when it means gathering trade at an otherwise studies below show, with a new breed of public quiet time! There are so many pubs around here, house, the bar has seriously been raised. and most of them are leaning towards the gastro trend in order to pull in trade. But this has always The barbershop boozer been a traditional pub, which is something the The Dartmouth Arms, North London landlord, Nick, is very proud of. He has brought in “Arlene is a local hairdresser, originally from modern aspects to the décor and to the menu, but Scotland," says pub manager Laura Stephens. "She he is keen that the pub remains at the heart of the was saying that community. He says “Instead of seeing the pub as where she is simply somewhere to go and have a drink, we see from, it's not it as more than that — as a place where activities unusual for the take place. Having a back room is a great amenity. hairdressers to On top of the Scrabble tournaments and quiz work from their nights that we've added to our regular routine, local pub. We we're thinking of hiring out an area to local theatre thought about it groups. Of course, this is primarily a business, and and decided that adding hairdressing to our menu, we need to get around the current climate, which late every Thursday afternoon, was a great way to means considering new ways to gather custom”. bring in trade at a notoriously quite time of the Cont/d
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Beer News and Features
The real village local which meant guaranteed The Land of Liberty, Peace and Plenty, business. Now they have Heronsgate, Hertfordshire. pulled down the Tesco, the “My partner, Mark Few, and I smaller shops have been bought this place four years driven out of the area, and that ago, with the sole intention of has hit us hard. There were creating a traditional village only four pubs here for years, pub with a focus on but a big chain moved in and community values," says Jill that really messed with our Gibson (pictured right with custom — and the smoking ban Mark). "It's important that we didn't help either. It has been a really tough time. spend a lot of time behind the Then the Reverend suggested that we hold the bar, engaging with the Sunday service at the Seven Stars, because he customers, rather than employing part-timers, who wanted to bring the Christian message to people come and go and aren't part of the scenery. The who would not necessarily make the decision to idea of the pub, historically, is that it is a large attend a service. For us, it was an opportunity to living room; only one that happens to sell drinks make a bit more on Sundays — which we have. and refreshments. Above all, it should be a place We've held two services here so far. There has to socialise and make friends. A while back, one of been great interest and the congregation was our regulars mentioned that she'd joined a knitting considerable. I am open to any new ideas, and club over in Ealing, and found it hard to get to would happily hold a number of events from the each week. It occurred to me that having our own pub. The whole industry is struggling, and I am knitting group would make for a nice Sunday willing to try anything I can in order to help my afternoon activity, so I asked around the locals and business survive”. they were up for it. Four of us met up the following week for a knit, a drink and a chat, and since then The rock god's retreat it's blossomed. Now we've added a cycling club The Old Blue Last, Shoreditch, London EC2 and a book club. The boost in trade is great, but “The summer's probably the also, people make connections with people they toughest time for pubs, might otherwise never meet. It's great for local especially those without trade, too, as we act as a conduit for information. If gardens," says events someone is new to the area and needs a organiser Paul Lillie. tradesman, we can say, 'OK, well over there is X, "Despite this, the Old Blue who is an electrician,' or 'In three hours Y will be never really has a problem in, and he's a mechanic.' In that sense, we've built drawing crowds. There are a brand. It is a way to feed back into the loads of really nice pubs in community, by creating sustainable business in the this area, but there is a area”. certain crowd who will always come to this one. We are owned by the The heavenly hostelry Vice brand, which has really good contacts within Seven Stars Inn, St Austell, Cornwall the music industry so we manage to book bands “Holding the Sunday service in our pub was that other pubs would be unlikely to get hold of. actually the reverend's idea, but it was just what The Arctic Monkeys and The Rascals are just two we needed," says landlady Ameena Williams. "The of the bigger bands who have played 'secret' gigs general climate has been on-the-down in St here. People know that if they come here, they're Austell, since the town went under redevelopment likely to catch big bands that are used to packing a while back. We're only a small market town, and out stadiums and huge venues, and rarely do such before, visitors would come here to do their food intimate gigs as playing in the upstairs room of an shopping at the supermarket, then they'd pop into old pub. There's never a shortage of performers or the various smaller shops. Once they'd done that, an audience. This is a really old venue, built in they might come in here to have a pint or two, 18666, and what we've done is to keep that aspect
12 Beer News and Features intact, while making it stand out as a music venue, Tuesdays, we have fully qualified magicians, while as much as a drinking place. Other pubs have a tarot reader works away on the pub floor. Other music nights, but we go further than that. Every nights we have DJs and live musicians. There is no night we have either a band or a DJ, working from door charge — though donations are, of course, the 120-capacity venue upstairs. We try to keep welcome! Together, Martha and I have a entry free — or at least at a minimal cost — where background in graphic design, club promotion and possible. We hold a lot of launch parties and web development, so we use things like well- events here, and we always try to make them as designed posters, a proper website and even a different as possible. Recently, we bought in a load Facebook group to get our name out. There are of cut-out platforms with scenes drawn on them more everyday ways to reach target customers; and holes for your head, like you get on the beach. even small things, like offering a Sunday roast from We just want our nights to be a bit different. Even midday through to closing time means we get if someone doesn't fancy a big performance and customers that others miss out on”. just wants a quiet drink and some good music, in the main bar there's a free juke box that has been The bring-your-own-grub pub provided and stocked by [record label] Rough Ye Olde Seven Stars, Kidderminster Trade, so people who are into certain types of “The traditional British music know that here they'll get to listen to stuff pub is dying out, and that they wouldn't get in other pub juke-boxes. We the days when the have a huge diversity of genres stocked here, not landlord ran the bar just what's hip at the time. By carving a reputation while the landlady in one area - i.e. as a venue and music-based pub, cooked the hotpot in we can tap into a particular scene. We draw in the kitchen are well customers who might otherwise end up going and truly over," says elsewhere and make sure they come back again”. landlord Robin Copeman. "This means that the infrastructure of the pub has to change too. We're The illusionist's inn situated in a deprived area of town, surrounded by The Farm, Hove takeaways. In the old days, this pub was renowned “Our philosophy is if the pub industry in general for bank managers eating their shepherd's pie from isn't doing well," says The Farm's co-owner Noah the pub kitchen, with a pint. But the emergence of Hearle, "let us see what can be done to make that takeaways changed the way people eat and drink work in our favour. Rather than dwelling on a in the area. When this trend first started, people slump in the market, we're finding ways to make would come for a pint while they waited for their our pub stand out. It's food, and then disappear home to eat it. One day I never enough just to serve asked a customer who was doing this: 'Why don't drinks. It's important that you get the wife down and you can eat it here we don't sacrifice the while it's fresh?' The whole concept just quality of our food and ale, snowballed from there. The bring-your-own-grub and we're wary of scheme has allowed us to adapt to the current succumbing to the gastro climate — not to mention avoid dealing with trend. When my business stroppy chefs. We have a choice of local menus at partner, Martha Herbst, the bar, customers have a beer while they decide and I found this place, what to have, drink another while they're waiting under a year ago, we found for their delivery, then two more as they eat — it's a a real pub, and that is what we wanted to play on. captive audience. We provide the cutlery and do In order to attract new custom, we'd rather their washing up, so customers have the leisure of complement what we already have — a beautiful a takeaway, while being able to meet friends and old venue — than mess with the basics. And we've enjoy a pint or two. This area has a strong found lots of exciting ways to bring in trade: community feel, and by working with the Mondays are comedy nights, where we showcase takeaways, we're helping to feed money back into five or six pop acts from all over the country. On local businesses, while keeping hold of our own”.
13 Herts Readers Write Why pubs are how they are! up the shortfall by inflating prices to the “On I think there's (sic) two parallel markets (could Trade” pubs that is causing the problem. The even be three).The real money seems to be in huge Chancellor in his ignorance has just made matters town centre pubs selling alco-pops and plastic worse!! lager/cider to large numbers of people at Any comments, articles or letters for publication weekends. Nowadays they go out already having drunk a are welcome. Please send to: Steve Bury, 14 New cheap bottle of wine or two and get absolutely Road, Shenley, Herts, WD7 9EA. Or send an Email pi**ed. This has the accompanying social to us at: [email protected] problems that the Daily Mail readers can get up- tight about. The government use these as an A Recipe for Long Life excuse to put up duty to prevent "binge" drinking. r Benjamin Parker of Wortham, near Diss, In the middle are the free houses who specialise in Norfolk died aged 103 on 7th February different real ales from independent brewers and 1782. His funeral was attended by a (usually) take care that the beer they sell is up to M number of his children, grandchildren and great- scratch. These are the ones of most interest to me. I grandchildren. He was a strong healthy man and think they are probably doing quite well till within a few days of his death drank three pints financially. of strong beer a day. He was never known to drink And at the bottom of the pile are the pubco-owned spirituous liquors, or tea, nor to smoke or take pubs who are being overcharged outrageously for snuff, or chew tobacco; when pressed to take any both their lease and the bulk of the products they of these idle things, as he called them, his saying sell. These are the ones that are closing at the rate was:- Snuff, nor tobacco, gin, nor yet tea. of 4-5 a week. Beer-wise they are forced to sell A pot of good beer is the liquor for me national brands (blands?) only and because they cannot make ends meet they try to attract Ed says: It could be worth £3 a pint after all. additional customers by installing Sky TV, etc. If they aren't closed they are characterised by frequent changes of ownership as landlords go THE LORDSHIP ARMS
bust and the pubcos find another idiot with some Herts Pub of the Year 2002 redundancy money or an inheritance. The Inn In The Sticks Andy Clark Benington, Nr Stevenage
Ed Says: Very succinct and to the point.
Taxing comments
Recently a friend sent me Pints of View plus one of
your postcards for the Chancellor about the
increase in beer tax.
I agree beer tax is too high but I consider you are
being too blinkered. Yes, say to the Chancellor
beer tax is too high but the tax on 'fashionable
drinks' is too low. REAL ALE OASIS FOR THE DISCERNING DRINKER I agree Great British beer and Scotland’s whisky Fuller’s London Pride, Crouch Vale Brewer’s Gold trade should be supported, but to do that cannot Plus 6 ever changing guest beers from we increasingly tax alco-pops, wine and beer from Independent and Micro Breweries
abroad except the Commonwealth? Also Traditional Cider
Do we need wine and spirits from the Americas or A fantastic array of fine ales as usual ------Whiskey from Japan? Lunchtime Snacks Ian R Bolton - Ex Hertford drinker Curry Night every Wednesday £6.00 Ed Says: This reader seems to have missed the Two Course Sunday Roast £12.00 point: It is the brewers selling their products at ------
discounted prices to the supermarkets and making Telephone 01438 869665
14 The North Herts CAMRA
2008 Beer Festival -
Letchworth Garden City
or me, the September 2008 Letchworth Beer & Cider Festival was DIFFERENT. I was one Fof the small band of North Herts Branch members who responded to the message to “become a brewer for a day” during August. The day was not without its troubles; we’d been aiming to start work at Buntingford Brewery (which in fact is near Royston!) at about 9am, but were delayed because of a partial power failure which prevented the giant heaters in the brewing tanks from working. Back to the gardening…now looking forward to a 1pm start. Following repairs, off we went to brew! What an experience. Steve, the head brewer, complimented Robin and I for pouring the 30kg sacks of malt really well between us. Was he just being kind….? I think so, as he The sealed brewing vessel later told us that Catherine lifts them on her own! At the Letchworth Beer & Cider Festival itself, the Buntingford Garden City Bitter that we had helped to brew was, of course, one of the first beers I sampled. Not THE first: any experienced beer- festival aficionado will tell you to try the most popular one first, before it runs out! But it was the second…I’m pleased to report it ran out fairly early, as well as receiving a good score from those who sampled it - and with a good write-up on an internet blog afterwards!