#myHauteLoire - n°1 xp ri nc The magazine that reconnects with simple pleasures

Haute-, the best-kept secret in p.3

File STONE IN ALL ITS GLORY p.17

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES the perfect recipe to let go p.28 Haute-Loire 6 gems

Climb to the top of Mont Mézenc for a 360° sunrise

he dawn light slips through the leafy forest trail Tin , the highest village in the . Then it appears before your eyes, the «Bald Giant of the Cévennes» at 1753m. A light breeze whips up and you get your reward: a breath-taking view of South West bathed in the sun’s glowing rays. A 45 minute ascent is enough to chat with Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc, Puy de Sancy, the Cévennes, Alps 01 and Mont-Blanc. 05

Tackle the rapids Take a hot-air in the Gorges balloon ride over the 02 de l’ wild Loire gorges and its first châteaux Château de Léotoing his morning we’re going Trafting with Olivier, our guide littering in the morning dew, the for our adrenalin-pumping trip Ghot-air balloon slowly inflates to down this almost inaccessible weightlessly transport us. You feel tiny ruly experiencing the 03 WIDE ANGLE river’s rapids. On the agenda: in the basket that seems to float above Haute-Loire means taking Trou du Curé, Rince-Sinus and stops the endless landscapes. The wind alone a deep breath and inhaling 6 Haute-Loire gems to dive off the granite rock before a knows where it will take us... the land, soaking up all Portfolio picnic on the sand and pebble beach. the colours, views and The afternoon is more chilled out Taromas that Auvergne is renowned for. with a canoe ride down calmer water to . Then it’s a train ride back This new issue explores the Haute-Loire 10 like a fish to water to Monistrol-d’Allier whilst we relive to bring you some of its secrets and turn our exciting adventure. your stay here into a unique experience Canoeing, the start of an adventure Trudge around so you can give free rein to your passions In the realm of the Salmon King the ridges of the and "let go". Reconnect with Mother Nature Colorado 04 «Mountains and Volcanoes», «Sources t’s like the Earth’s crust has cracked open to and Wild Rivers», «Culture and Igive us a glimpse of its beige, green and blue 06 17 clay layers up to 50m thick. Slow geological Footpaths» are just some of the worlds STONE IN ALL ITS GLORY Lose yourself in the you'll explore as you turn the pages. work that makes these Ravins de Corboeuf Le Puy-en-Velay Profile feel like canyons. You may get a glimpse of it Gorges de l’Allier’s They're teeming with gems that locals Open-air decor from the hamlet of Chastel (Rosières) but you and tourism professionals are delighted hilltop villages Memory springs from history don’t realise how huge this sedimentary giant to share with you so you can reconnect is until you take the 3.2km footpath around it. t’s as if time has stood still as we stroll with simple pleasures. Ithrough the majestic and serene Chan- teuges Abbey. We can’t resist a few stops Marie-Agnès PETIT, 28 A FEAST FOR THE SENSES Hop on board the highest to unearth the secrets of villages sculp- President of Haute-Loire Tourism ted by volcanic stone such as Saint-Ar- Report: Is Saint-Bonnet the most foodie steam train in France cons-d’Allier, Saint-Ilpize, and village in France? 03 before heading off to gaze at one cheerful whistle rings out and a puff Fine Food of the Haute-Loire’s 4 «Most Beautiful A of steam wafts past our windows. Villages in France» (p. 22). Nuts about Auvergne We’re sitting comfortably on board the What to bring back in your suitcase? elegant Belle Epoque carriages and we’re off on the Velay Express for a trip back in time at an altitude of over 1000m.(, and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon). [2018 Issue] 34 Find your way (Raucoules, Tence and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon).

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The mountain sets the scene for us... It’s up to us to come up with the story to go with it!

Nicolas Helmbacher (adventurer)

Feel the power of the volcanoes from Mont Mézenc

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Get up close and personal with white water in the Gorges Kingfisher de l’Allier (Chapelle Sainte-Marie-des-Chazes)

6 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 7 Seek the meaning of life on the route (Chapelle de Rochegude)

They did not know it was ths impossible, so they did it. a

Mark Twain

Be curious in the Cloister & f ootp culture at La Chaise-Dieu Abbey

Gaze in wonder at Saint-Julien Basilica in

8 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 9 The Gorges de la Loire from Chazelles (Monistrol-sur-Loire)

Sailing through untamed Secrets territory

of the stones Jérôme is passionate about the Gorges de la Loire and it’s obvious. This boat is undoubtedly the When he joins your «canoe» trip most natural way to see the ba- Fishing for it’s like he’s opening the doors into salt giants and stone villages that his own wild land that he wants to adventure seem to watch over the furrowed protect. He tells us the story of ot- Gorges de l’Allier. Then we stop Steeve is a master at finding the ters, red kites and snowy mespilus. for a coffee on the sun-soaked best fishing spots in the Allier. River As we’re paddling along we can see banks of Lavoûte-Chilhac and a What could be better than a canoe the natural symbiosis that we’re stroll in Vieille-Brioude’s parks. explorer to reach them? Two days unear- quietly caught up in. t of an We set off from Bageasse beach thing our inner trappers with bi- If you see a canoe with some CanoeingThe star with a guide on a nautical trail® to vouacs to boot... funny explorers on board with adventure! find out more about these waters Lavoûte-sur-Loire in Aurec-sur- «It’s time to sample local speciali- thermometers in one hand and teeming with salmon. Loire: velay-eaux-vives.fr. ties cooked on the barbecue. The nets and masks in the other: Hire also available in atmosphere at that very moment is stop! It’s Allierypso: a floating the /Bas-en- at its height. Everyone relives their Ages 6 and up. Half-day, full day scientific base jam-packed with Basset areas: tourisme- day with a head full of memories Venturing off the beaten track means choosing another or 3-day trip from Prades to Au- fun-filled educational equipment. marchesduvelayrochebaron.fr and images! Just like the fishing way to paddle. So we’re leaving the overcrowded zon: 20/25km per day (approx. A beaver skull is unearthed and the ot-des-sucs.fr scenes in «A River Runs Through It» waterways to go on a real adventure: 5 hrs). Accommodation in B&Bs, investigation into the rodent be- Confolent/Aurec-surLoire : starring Brad Pitt. Everyone takes stopover gîtes or campsites. Solo gins. Tracks on the beach spark our one which opens our eyes to the world so we can get to aurec-sports.fr their turn to tell their best jokes. or guided village . curiosity that draws us to the semi- grips with our surroundings. The laughter is infectious. We’re all tonic-aventure.fr aquatic mammals. A discussion completely disconnected from our gorges-allier.com about water levels and the river’s everyday lives. Mission accom- ot-brioude.fr hydrology is clear as crystal. plished for the monitors and their trappers.» Éric, fishing enthusiast. «The highlight of the day was passing through Lavoûte-Chilhac where Look out for them in summer as the river carves out an «omega» around the stunning village. On top of you go round a bend between Trapper canoe fishing breaks in that there were dozens of kingfishers, white-throated dippers, herons, Langeac and Brioude (Les Pieds à the Allier or horseback fishing in the cormorants and cows! We’re even sleeping with them tonight...» Terre). Loire: emotionpeche.com lespiedsaterre.fr Paul and Philippe during «La Grande Traversée»: a unique challenge from Geneva to Saint-Nazaire that they did in summer 2017.

10 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 11 La Tallide, bend in the Allier River in Saint-Vénérand, the birthplace of Atlantic salmon Grayling, a wild aggressive fish sought-after by sport fishing fans.

Salmon leaping out of the Allier’s water

Auvergne grayling, The chef’s favourite fish

Shedding Light on Auvergne’s Grayling Area

Meet a great Is there a pretender to the salmon’s migrator throne? Grayling... The Allier River is an incredible breeding ground Salmon reigns supreme here. Eve- for species that only live in fres- ry bridge over the Allier from Lan- hwater. Grayling is one of them and geac to Brioude salutes it with the it’s also a fantastic bioindicator. plaque «Allier, rivière à saumons» Hurray, remember that there are (Allier, salmon river). 3300km of category 1 rivers in People from all over Europe used the Haute-Loire! This Thymallus King of in the realm of the to come here to go fishing. There from the Salmonidae family loves freshwater fish «I mainly catch brown were so many people that the la- fresh and well-oxygenated water. It trout. I trained in the bourers who were building the «Le swims in the currents of the Gorges Nicknamed the «King of Delights» in Dunière, Semène and Al- Cévenol» railway track in the late de l’Allier, the Ance river and the , the «Lady of the Stream» lier rivers. The standard th salmon 19 century went on strike because Loire’s high valley. What’s the in Britain and the «Thymallus of water is great in the they were given salmon to eat 2 or benefit of fishing for it? It lasts into Queen» in , the grayling’s Haute-Loire and there’s a 2 3 times a week! autumn/winter in category rivers delicate flesh and sweet thyme good density of fish. We don’t just do a spot The species is now protected and whilst Mrs Brown Trout rests. fragrance has won over Michelin- And the number of rivers of fishing in the Haute- the Conservatoire National du starred chef Philippe Brun who has is incredible.» Loire! Salmon swims Saumon Sauvage (National Wild since become a leading ambassa- I 5000-10,000km along pechehauteloire.fr Salmon Conservation Centre) in dor for the so-called «King of Fres- Jean-François Vialette N the currents from Green- pampers it to ensure it K hwater Fish». recent world G land to come to breed reproduces, is safeguarded and to With its great flavours and thriving junior fly fishing in the Gorges de l’Allier. teach our little ones about protec- breeding in Chanteuges, grayling champion There’s proof of the ting the aquatic environment. has made its way onto the best chefs’ excellent standard of the menus: Régis and Jacques Marcon water here. We salute this Salmon breeding tours: and as far as with Chef amazing tourist. You can’t saumon-sauvage.org Sébastien Bras to become a pre- catch salmon as it’s a pro- mium fish. tected species, but fishing La Maison du Saumon et de la fanatics can catch grayling Rivière (Salmon and River Centre) and brown trout. (Brioude) aquariummaisondusaumon.com

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The Cévennes to route / The New World reconnect (Gorges de l’Allier) with Mother Nature Here, all roads lead to the source. A source of stamina with trails flirting with the Loire and Allier, 2 rivers that spring up on the edge of the Haute-Loire... or a source of spirituality and history with the Santiago de Compostela route.

Walking these footpaths is a great way to recharge your batteries: go back to basics, reconnect with nature and, along the way, get back to your own nature. An unexpected GO EXPLORING train ride With stages lasting between We hop on board the Gorges de 20 and 25km, the route is first and l’Allier Tourist Train in Lan- foremost a physical challenge. But geac to to see the Walking like there’s far more to it! From Le Puy- wild and volcanic gorges that no en-Velay Cathedral, a start point Geography The rare pearl 1st digital GR® road has ever reached. An unex- for the Santiago de Compostela a pilgrim route, everyone goes on their own lesson in the hiking trail pected train ride at slow speeds As you wander around the uplands as you approach the best sites. and making journey: self-discovery, friendship, great outdoors of the wild Loire Valley, you in France Photo opportunities guaranteed! spirituality, nature, creativity etc. stumble upon the Bonnefont mine- Before our very eyes is a parade the most of Everyone in France learns in geo- ral water spring in Saint-Martin- Pack light with the first digital of unspoilt landscapes sculpted by graphy class that the Loire River’s de-Fugères. Operated until 1914 pocket hiking guide. It’s free too! the water and volcanoes intersper- the path is source is on Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc. and rich in trace elements, it was It guides us as we follow the sed by 16 tunnels and 51 viaducts. So it’s obvious that you take the said to have health benefits: diure- Allier back up to Brioude to its The train shares the best secrets a source of ® GR 3 up the river to its source. tic, anti-rheumatic and digestive. source at an altitude of 1500m of the Gorges de l’Allier with extra inspiration 160km of paths from Aurec-sur- « No to alcohol...but yes to chaly- on Moure de la Gardille in Lo- anecdotes and funny stories from Loire to walk along, cross, span and beate! » said Bourvil. zère. Hiking the «Sources & the guide. journey. contemplate the wild river until Gorges de l’Allier» GR® 470 you reach its source in the Ardèche. trail is an ode to landscapes that Lu Yongzhong, Along the way you can fill the cup mezencloiresauvage.com are as diverse as they are drama- train-gorges-allier.com painter of your hands with its clear water tic: rows of gorges, hairpin bends, Arrival at the Domaine du Sauvage (), a welcoming hotspot to freshen up and set off again with granite and basalt plateaus, volca- for Santiago pilgrims managed by a your best foot forward. nic curiosities, stunning resinous group of farmers or leafy forests and more. To end sauvage-en-gevaudan.com the trip on a high, a train ride back rando-hauteloire.fr along the river on the legendary Le Cévenol railway is a must.

gr470-gorgesallier.com

14 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 15 Go your own way le There are lots of ways to get to Le Puy-en-Velay.

Saint-Michel d’ You can reach the Jacobean route Puy-en-Velay Rock, start point for the from Geneva and most recently GR® 300 that will link up the top Saint Michael from Cluny and if you pack through the lens of ® sites in Europe including the brand new GR 765 hiking * Mont Saint-Michel. Instagramers (Digital TopoGuide® guide in your backpack. hiking guide available for the route from Aiguilhe to Ébreuil in the Allier) rando-hauteloire.fr

« Le Puy is a town of art and history that has transformed its volcanic architecture to glow in Southern French colours in a matter of years. »

Jean-Claude @jcg48

*shots published by Instagram users. #myHauteLoire #LePuyenVelay

16 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 17 « …its unique, special atmosphere, « Its colourful houses, its old porches « When I reached the top of the the start point for pilgrims on the and doors worn down by time, a staircase after 268 steps at sunset, Santiago de Compostela route. » town that’s teeming with gems and I felt something special as I explored secrets... » the little chapel standing on a former Christine volcanic pipe and the incredible views @en.instantanes Blandine encompassing the town... » « Where do you start? What with local produce galore, the colours of Le @blandinette42 Puy-en-Velay, its fabulous history and warm-hearted locals, it was hard to leave at night. In a few words: Le Puy is joy in its purest form! »

André @andre_berthet

A slice of local life

By Laurette, a local foodie and Le Puy-en-Velay addict of Le Puy-en-Velay’s market market which is known as the best in Auvergne.

The so-called «Porche de la Parole» Rue Séguret, a narrow lane uptown At the peak of Saint-Michel d’Aiguilhe Rock Saturday, 6am, the streets are filling with a crate of vegetables from local cathedral porch benches, boards, calling voices, rolling producers that he’ll cook in his carts that whip along the town’s old restaurant. I don’t leave the market before I’ve seen Christophe the beekeeper to 8 illumination shows at cobbles. Here they are... I gobble up my woo me with his floral honey. landmarks in and around breakfast so I can join them. It’s as town from late April to I scoot to the covered marketplace to find It’s already midday so it’s a great time though late September every evening at nightfall. Raphaël, the baker with the big smile who to meet up with friends. I find them on the rays of sells crusty organic bread made using a terrace on the covered market square light were heritage flour straight from the oven. Then looking for the last table for us to soak creating puydelumieres.fr it’s off to Place du Plot to find Véro and her up the last of the sun. A little get- famous «artisous» cheese. She hands me together with a bit of Auvergne wine and a halo a piece as though I’ve never tried it before. bread, cheese and cured meats with the around the Unmissable! memory of all the smiling faces we’ve landmarks. seen on this special morning. On the way I visit brothers Antoine and Stéphane in the hope of leaving with the last saucisson. « and dry for The cathedral, the town’s landmark, Mademoiselle!» I nod as I go past Fred during «Le Puy de Lumières» and the Notre-Dame de France statue in the who’s proudly holding background

18 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 19 Le Puy-en-Velay, the start point for the UNESCO World Heritage Santiago de Compostela route

20 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 21 Haute-Loire open-air decor

Seeking out the most beautiful villages in France 4 « Plus Villages de France »

Arlempdes, picturesque and overlooked by the , with its half-timbered houses, film set for A peaceful atmosphere with the scent of days gone by The intriguing setting of the former ruins of one of the first châteaux on the banks of the «La nouvelle guerre des boutons» starring Kad Merad. whips up the lanes in Pradelles. Abbey’s cloister, a star in «Crimson Rivers II». untamed Loire.

22 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 23 Haute-Loire, open-air decor

Standing like a sentry, the ruins overlook the town of A hive of activity in the village of Le Monastier-sur- Picture-perfect Chilhac on the banks of the Allier Allègre at the foot of Mont-Bar volcano. Gazeille, a start point for the famous Stevenson trail. and its staggering basalt columns. Towns and villages with personality

3 « Petites Cités de Caractère »

Secrets of stones

Houses with thatched roofs reminiscent of a Gaul village in Bigorre and .

The sun sets over the majestic fortress in Polignac. Medieval backdrop and terraced Time to think in La Chaise-Dieu Abbey, The medieval village of Chalencon gardens in Auzon. a haven of peace. and its mysterious tale of the Devil’s Bridge.

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Lafayette, from the Haute- memory Loire to America Homage Find out more about the locals’ commitment at How about we get to know the fa- the Lieu de Mémoire in Le Chambon-sur Lignon mous Marquis de Lafayette, a hero to the Righteous in 2 countries and a champion of freedom? The «honorary citizen Did you know that the tradition for of the United States of America» hospitality and spirit of resistance was born on September 6th 1757 in and around Le Chambon-sur-Li- in the Château de Chavaniac-Lafa- gnon really came to the fore during Peak of the yette. 1777 marked the beginning the Second World War? of his American saga. Alongside The villages quietly and naturally Resistance George Washington, he became transformed following the influx of Let’s visit the Mont-Mouchet Re- an «iconic» figure for American refugees with almost as many re- sistance Museum in Auvers. The independence. When he returned fugees as there were households. tale of two cartoon characters, to France he played a major part Countless Jews and specifically Lucien and Pierrot, depicts the key in the in 1789 children were saved among the re- events that made their mark on which he threw himself into with fugees. In 1990, people from in and this Auvergne resistance memorial ideas he’d brought back from the around Chambon were given a Yad site in a sensitive playful way. The USA. The Treasury Room even has Vashem certificate of honour that 2 heroes joined the Mont-Mou- an original copy of the Marquis’ De- distinguishes them as «Righteous chet group, one of the 5 largest claration of the Rights of the Man Among The Nations». resistance gatherings in France, and of the Citizen. A 300 year old You can explore this period on a in spring 1944. What did they do? oak tree that has borne witness to historical and educational visit to They stopped the German army the saga stands in the middle of the the remarkable Lieu de Mémoire from advancing from their base in château grounds. Museum in Le Chambon-sur-Li- gnon. A moving journey that en- the South of France to Normandy. capsulates the fate of the men and Authentic items, documents, pho- chateau-lafayette.com women involved in the resistance tos and videos surround us with that was civil, spiritual and armed the realities of the time and reveal all in one. the secrets of the Auvergne Resis- tance throughout the visit. memoireduchambon.com resistance-mont-mouchet.com

Château de Lafayette in the middle of its remarkable grounds

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1 3-star restaurant Report regismarcon.fr Is Saint-Bonnet the most foodie village in France? 3 Bibs Gourmands le-fort-du-pre.fr What sets Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid apart is the standard of its restaurants with regismarcon.fr/bistrot-la- a record number of eateries and culinary awards. Let’s find out more about coulemelle an incredible area from Marie-France Neyron, a «keeper of memory» for this restaurant-chatelard.com collective adventure. 100 So tell me...how do you explain the incredible Why did Régis introduce mushrooms into his dishes? hospitality/catering jobs restaurant scene in Saint Bonnet? Here we have a mushroom legacy and the tradition of and 260 guest beds It all stems from Saint-Bonnet’s location almost 1200m the mushroom fair that’s been running since the Middle high at the top of a mountain pass on the edge of the Ages. People would pick mushrooms and dry them on Ardèche and Haute-Loire. Monks from La Chaise-Dieu ropes in front of the fire in farms. Mushrooms sold for Up to came here to clear the ground in the Middle Ages. So the same price as today at the All Saint’s Day fair. They you needed cafés and taverns for the men clearing the would swap goods with traders for warm clothes, 1 ton ground. Then stagecoaches began to stop in Saint- chestnuts, nuts and apples to get through winter. It was of dried mushrooms sold Bonnet to eat and sleep. It all began because there was a way to survive. The 2-day fair now attracts at the Mushroom Fair st nothing at all... 40,000 visitors. (1 weekend after All Saint’s Day) And then? Is Saint-Bonnet the land of mushrooms? Locals stayed here. An example is the Chatelard family Undoubtedly! It’s down to its wealth of woodlands, who have been restaurateurs since their grandparents’ diverse soils and surrounding altitudes: it increases generation. Then others came such as Chef Thierry the opportunities! Guyot and his wife Cécile at Le Fort du Pré who hail from the region. We’re used to seeing snowy otmontfaucon.fr winters here. There’s a real sense of community. Restaurateurs aren’t competitive. They’re pleased to see others do well and everyone does well! [laughs].

Chef Régis Marcon must have helped the village become famous? Régis wasn’t going to live in Saint-Bonnet to start with. Pamper yourself after tickling your tastebuds at « When people come to Saint-Bonnet, The Gault et Millau guide brought him to the world’s Les Sources du Haut Plateau spa attention. He was offered jobs in , , and in the they say they’re bound to find a good place to eat, end he never wanted to leave his land. He brought a lot if not the first then it will be the next. » of people with him. At the start we couldn’t believe it. Then he trained lots of chefs who have stayed here such as 2 Michelin-starred Serge Vieira in Chaudes-Aigues. Régis is proud...He’s a driving force, he attracts others, he’s very friendly: we never say «Mr Marcon» here, everyone calls him Régis.

Régis and Jacques Marcon, 3-star restaurant in Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid

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the pastrycapital of the world Nuts about Auvergne! There are 46 of them. They’re crazy about Auvergne and its fine dining scene. What have these Toques d’Auvergne always wanted? To promote local produce by developing short supply chains with a close-knit network of producers. And we’d say that current trends prove they’re right...

Château Day-long Advertorial of Indulgence courses 12 chefs in the Haute-Loire Jacques Marcon Restaurant Régis ENSP has been The school was founded by the The prestigious school may pro- We’ve always Philippe Brun et Jacques Marcon Confédération des Pâtissiers and is vide 3-year Bachelor degrees in world-renowned for over worked Hôtel Restaurant Le Haut-allier Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid 30 years as a school for now run by Yves Thuriès and Alain the «Arts of Pâtisserie» but you can - (00 33) (0)4 71 57 57 63 (00 33) (0)4 71 59 93 72 professionals in pastry, Ducasse. It has never stopped ex- also hone your skills on 2-month with local bakery, chocolate, panding and has set a benchmark in long courses or even masterclasses produce and André Chatelard Rémy Michelas the pastry world. for a 1/2 or full day. The best chefs confectionery and ice Restaurant André et Viviane Hôtel Restaurant Le Bourbon The school is based in the Château are here and you get stuck in. All strive to Chatelard Yssingeaux cream arts. de Montbarnier in Yssingeaux in the the classes are in English: what respect the Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid (00 33) (0)4 71 59 06 54 Haute-Loire. It manages to combine would you expect from an interna- seasons, it’s (00 33) (0)4 71 59 96 09 the past and present, fun and func- tional school? Robert Redon tionality, diversity and harmony. It one of our Sandy Caire Restaurant Le Poivrier has 8 highly-equipped laborato- I have always ensp-adf.com core values. L’atelier by Sandy Caire Le Puy-en-Velay ries, a lecture room and recreational - (00 33) (0)7 86 01 08 40 (00 33) (0)4 71 02 41 30 strived to areas. Its unique warm atmosphere Jean-François Fafournoux, president of «Toques pass on my encourages people with the same d’Auvergne» Dominique Dubray Gilles Roux vision of passion to get together and learn. Hôtel Restaurant La Bougnate Restaurant La Tour Blesle - (00 33) (0)4 71 76 29 30 Dunières culinary and (00 33) (0)4 71 66 86 66 pastry arts Benoit Fromager with a single Hôtel La Terrasse Eric Tournayre - (00 33) (0)4 71 77 83 10 Restaurant Tournayre motto in Le Puy-en-Velay mind: Thierry Guyot (00 33) (0)4 71 09 58 94 Hôtel Restaurant Le Fort du Pré excellence A great gift idea? Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid Jean-Pierre Vidal in practice. The Chèq’Toq voucher valid (00 33) (0)4 71 59 91 83 Restaurant Vidal in «Toques d’Auvergne» Alain Ducasse Saint-Julien-Chapteuil restaurants and available to (00 33) (0)4 71 08 70 50 buy on toques-auvergne.fr

30 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 31 Shopping OPEN THE DOOR INTO What TO BRING BACK craft workshops in your suitcase? Savoury treats Mushrooms, mountain cured meats and «artisous» cheese. The cheese’s unique flavour comes from the tiny cheese mites that age it by aerating the rind. The «artisous» mites are hyperactive: a couple Today’s conceives a million babies in 40 days. Now there’s a record to beat... designers

Producers and artists join create Sweet treats forces to take their little gems further than the tomor- Give into your sweet tooth with artisan treats : Jam by Bruno Moutcoudiol markets: row’s (Monistrol-sur-Loire) and Vincent Brun madeingevaudan.com (Saint-Victor-Malescours), Confectionery heritage by Le Cheyne and Douceurs du Lignon terroirsdehauteloire.com (Le Chambon-sur-Lignon), «Le goûter du hallefermiere.com Marquis» Cake (Langeac/Paulhaguet) and Alcohol abuse is dangerous. Please «La Pouzzolane du Velay» biscuits. drink responsibly. A VEGETABLE PRINCESS These lentils reign supreme with their delicate skin and slightly floury kernel enabling them to cook quickly. And let’s not forget that they’re packed with goodness: rich in plant protein, low in fat, they contain twice as much fibre, more potassium, phosphorus and iron! Would you like seconds Popeye?

Marie and Michel Bérodot, Red and black ceramicists, in They are ceramicists, stringed instrument makers, metalworkers, Strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants, blackcurrants, blueberries and jewellers and more. All of them love to surprise people and put a blackberries grown at over 1000m bit of their talent and soul into their work. altitude: The Velay’s «Red and Black Pearls»: rare and vibrant vitamins! Lace unveiled Training Centre) in Le Puy-en-Velay Le Puy-en-Velay’s old town is the place that provides courses all year round. Verveine soft to gaze at lacemakers working their or not ? magic and keeping this traditional Treat yourself to something unique expertise alive. It’s so tempting to step Look out for the «Made in Haute-Loire» Whether it’s an artisan liqueur for grandpa or a herbal tea for grandma, you should into one of the shops and treat yourself label to bring back a unique souvenir. always have some in reserve. Fabulous fabrics to a lace souvenir. Countless sites pay We head to the collective Escandhia Why not use it to put a twist on a classic Scarves made using traditional local tribute to it and pass a passion for it boutique in Brioude and the pop-up mojito? weaving techniques. They bear the onto future generations: the Hôtel de la shops on «Rue des Arts» in Le Puy- «Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant» Dentelle (Lace Centre) in Brioude, the en-Velay: Rue Chènebouterie and Rue Saint-Géron accreditation that recognises businesses Musée des Manufactures de Dentelles Raphaël turn into a vibrant showcase keeping traditional French expertise alive Mineral Water (available to buy at Monistrol-sur-Loire (Lace Factory Museum) in Retournac, for thirty artisans between May and Packed with minerals and rare trace Tourist Information). L’Atelier Conservatoire National de la September. elements from the magma, you can hear it Dentelle (National Lace Conservation let out a soft fizz when it escapes from the Studio) and Centre d’Enseignement bottle designed by Argentine artist Alberto cma-hauteloire.fr Bali. de la Dentelle au Fuseau (Bobbin Lace

32 - auvergne- xp ri nc .fr auvergne- xp ri nc .fr - 33 find your Haute-Loire Tourist Information LOIRE-SEMÈNE Centres Way otloiresemene.fr for expert advice! PUY-DE-DÔME 18 / AUREC-SUR-LOIRE (00 33) (0)4 77 35 42 65 19 19 / AUREC-SUR-LOIRE* (Aire Respirando) 18 04 Auzon (00 33) (0)4 77 73 10 75 Aurec- BRIOUDE SUD AUVERGNE 25 sur-Loire ot-brioude.fr St-Pal-en- 11 Chalencon LOIRE MARCHES DU VELAY – ROCHEBARON 01 / BRIOUDE (00 33) (0)4 71 74 97 49 tourisme-marchesduvelayrochebaron.fr 02 / BLESLE (00 33) (0)4 71 74 02 76 02 Blesle Craponne- La Chaise-Dieu 10 sur-Arzon Bas-en- 20 Monistrol- sur-Loire 20 / BAS-EN-BASSET (00 33) (0)4 71 66 95 44 03 / LAVAUDIEU* (00 33) (0)4 71 76 46 00 01 Brioude Basset 22 21 / BEAUZAC (00 33) (0)4 71 61 50 74 Lavaudieu 22 / MONISTROL-SUR-LOIRE GORGES DE L’ALLIER 21 (00 33) (0)4 71 66 03 14 03 23 St-Pal- gorges-allier.com Beauzac 24 de-Mons 23 / SAINT-PAL-DE-MONS Ste-Sigolène (00 33) (0)4 71 75 06 60 04 / AUZON (00 33) (0)4 71 76 18 11 24 / SAINTE-SIGOLÈNE 05 / LANGEAC (00 33) (0)4 71 77 05 41 (00 33) (0)4 71 66 13 07 28 06 / LAVOUTE-CHILHAC Allègre - Retournac 25 / SAINT-PAL-EN-CHALENCON* sur-Arzon 26 (00 33) (0)4 71 77 46 57 14 Montfaucon- (00 33) (0)4 71 66 19 53 07 / PRADELLES (00 33) (0)4 71 00 82 65 13 en-Velay St-Bonnet- 08 / SAUGUES (00 33) (0)4 71 77 71 38 Yssingeaux le-Froid Lavoûte-Chilhac 29 HAUT PAYS DU VELAY 27 06 otmontfaucon.fr IN AND AROUND LE PUY-EN-VELAY St-Paulien 12 Tence 31 lepuyenvelay-tourisme.fr 26 / MONTFAUCON-EN-VELAY Langeac (00 33) (0)4 71 59 95 73 09 / LE PUY-EN-VELAY (2 place du Clauzel) 05 Le Chambon- sur-Lignon 27 / SAINT-BONNET-LE-FROID (00 33) (0)4 71 09 38 41 (00 33) (0)4 71 65 64 41 10 / LA CHAISE-DIEU 30 Le Mazet-St-Voy (00 33) (0)4 71 00 01 16 32 15 11 / CRAPONNE-SUR-ARZON 09 PAYS DES SUCS (00 33) (0)4 71 03 23 14 Le Puy- St-Julien- Chapteuil ON THE BANKS OF THE LOIRE 12 / SAINT-PAULIEN (00 33) (0)4 71 00 50 01 en-Velay ot-des-sucs.fr 13 / VOREY-SUR-ARZON (00 33) (0)4 71 01 30 67 28 / RETOURNAC (00 33) (0)4 71 65 20 50 14 / ALLÈGRE* (00 33) (0)4 71 07 77 09 29 / YSSINGEAUX (00 33) (0)4 71 59 10 76 ARDÈCHE Le Monastier- sur-Gazeille 08 Saugues MéZENC-LOIRE-MEYGAL 16 HAUT-LIGNON mezencloiresauvage.com ot-hautlignon.com Les Estables 15 / SAINT-JULIEN CHAPTEUIL 17 30 / LE-CHAMBON-SUR-LIGNON (00 33) (0)4 71 08 77 70 (00 33) (0)4 71 59 71 56 Road and Paris 16 / LE MONASTIER-SUR-GAZEILLE tourist map 31 / TENCE (00 33) (0)4 71 59 71 56 (00 33) (0)4 71 08 37 76 32 / LE MAZET-SAINT-VOY available for 17 / LES ESTABLES (00 33) (0)4 71 08 31 08 (00 33) (0)4 71 65 07 32 free from the Haute- AUVERGNE RHÔNE-ALPES *information point Loire Tourist Lyon Information Clermont-Ferrand Centres. Pradelles LOZÈRE 07 HAUTE-LOIRE

Haute-Loire Tourist Board The production of this document has been funded by the Department as part of its policy to promote tourism in the Haute-Loire. The Haute-Loire Tourist Board and its partners shall not be held responsible for any omissions or errors that this magazine may contain. We’d like to thank everyone who contributed to making the magazine. Hôtel du Département - 1, place Monseigneur de Galard 43000 Le Puy-en-Velay - (00 33) (0)4 71 07 41 65 Head of publication: Marie-Agnès Petit. Editorial: Haute-Loire Tourist Board. [email protected] Design, creation and production: Trenta - trenta.fr / Agence studio N°3 - www.studioN3.fr www.auvergne-experience.fr Printed in June 2018 - Publication copyright. Printed on material originating from responsibly managed forests.

Photo credits: Luc Olivier/MDDT 43, Dan Vincent Photography, OT Mézenc Loire Meygal (David Frobert/ Elyas Saens /Laurence Barruel), Jérémy Mazet / Soleil de minuit, Gérard Gardès, Julien Lhoste, Laurence Barruel, Les Globe Blogueurs, Fun Trott, Vincent Curuchet, Julien Rancon, Dmtex, Pixabay, Les pieds à terre, Fotolia, Digital Nautic, CNSS, Emotion Pêche, Le Haut, Allier, F. Lacombe/ Les Petits Baroudeurs , Philippe Gilibert, Zooomez, Luc Olivier, Jean-Claude Goletto, Blandine Barriol, Join us and share Christine Hierle, André Berthet, Les sources du Haut- Plateau/Laurence Barruel, Distillerie Pagès, Saint-Géron, Saveurs des Sucs/La vertueuse, OT MDVR, stock.adobe.com, Ecole Nationale de la Pâtisserie, Matthieu Cellard. your experience using the #myHauteLoire hashtag

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