#myHauteLoire - n°1 XP RI NC The magazine that reconnects with simple pleasures HAUTE-LOIRE, THE Best-KEPT SECRET IN AUVERGNE p.3 File STONE IN ALL ITS GLORY p.17 A FEAST FOR THE SENSES the perfect recipe to let go p.28 HAUTE-LOIRE 6 GEMS CLIMB TO THE TOP OF MONT MÉZENC FOR A 360° SUNRISE he dawn light slips through the leafy forest trail Tin Les Estables, the highest village in the Massif Central. Then it appears before your eyes, the «Bald Giant of the Cévennes» at 1753m. A light breeze whips up and you get your reward: a breath-taking view of South West France bathed in the sun’s glowing rays. A 45 minute ascent is enough to chat with Mont Gerbier-de-Jonc, Puy de Sancy, the Cévennes, Alps 01 and Mont-Blanc. 05 TACKLE THE RAPIDS TAKE A HOT-AIR IN THE GORGES BALLOON RIDE OVER THE 02 DE L’ALLIER WILD LOIRE GORGES AND ITS FIRST CHÂTEAUX Château de Léotoing his morning we’re going Trafting with Olivier, our guide littering in the morning dew, the for our adrenalin-pumping trip Ghot-air balloon slowly inflates to down this almost inaccessible weightlessly transport us. You feel tiny ruly experiencing the 03 WIDE ANGLE river’s rapids. On the agenda: in the basket that seems to float above Haute-Loire means taking Trou du Curé, Rince-Sinus and stops the endless landscapes. The wind alone a deep breath and inhaling 6 Haute-Loire gems to dive off the granite rock before a knows where it will take us... the land, soaking up all Portfolio picnic on the sand and pebble beach. the colours, views and The afternoon is more chilled out Taromas that Auvergne is renowned for. with a canoe ride down calmer water to Langeac. Then it’s a train ride back This new issue explores the Haute-Loire 10 LIKE A FISH TO WATER to Monistrol-d’Allier whilst we relive to bring you some of its secrets and turn our exciting adventure. your stay here into a unique experience Canoeing, the start of an adventure TRUDGE AROUND so you can give free rein to your passions In the realm of the Salmon King THE RIDGES OF THE and "let go". Reconnect with Mother Nature COLORADO AUVERGNAT 04 «Mountains and Volcanoes», «Sources t’s like the Earth’s crust has cracked open to and Wild Rivers», «Culture and Igive us a glimpse of its beige, green and blue 06 17 clay layers up to 50m thick. Slow geological Footpaths» are just some of the worlds STONE IN ALL ITS GLORY LOSE YOURSELF IN THE you'll explore as you turn the pages. work that makes these Ravins de Corboeuf Le Puy-en-Velay Profile feel like canyons. You may get a glimpse of it GORGES DE L’Allier’s They're teeming with gems that locals Open-air decor from the hamlet of Chastel (Rosières) but you and tourism professionals are delighted HILLTOP VILLagES Memory springs from history don’t realise how huge this sedimentary giant to share with you so you can reconnect is until you take the 3.2km footpath around it. t’s as if time has stood still as we stroll with simple pleasures. Ithrough the majestic and serene Chan- teuges Abbey. We can’t resist a few stops Marie-Agnès PETIT, 28 A FEAST FOR THE SENSES HOP ON BOARD THE HIGHEST to unearth the secrets of villages sculp- President of Haute-Loire Tourism ted by volcanic stone such as Saint-Ar- Report: Is Saint-Bonnet the most foodie STEAM TRAIN IN FRANCE cons-d’Allier, Saint-Ilpize, Chilhac and village in France? 03 Auzon before heading off to gaze at one cheerful whistle rings out and a puff Fine Food of the Haute-Loire’s 4 «Most Beautiful A of steam wafts past our windows. Villages in France» (p. 22). Nuts about Auvergne We’re sitting comfortably on board the What to bring back in your suitcase? elegant Belle Epoque carriages and we’re off on the Velay Express for a trip back in time at an altitude of over 1000m.(Raucoules, Tence and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon). [2018 Issue] 34 FIND YOUR WAY (Raucoules, Tence and Le Chambon-sur-Lignon). 2 - AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR - 3 NOES A IN & VOLC A MOUNT The mountain sets the scene for us... It’s up to us to come up with the story to go with it! Nicolas Helmbacher (adventurer) Feel the power of the volcanoes from Mont Mézenc 4 - AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR - 5 IVERS R ILD W ND A OURCES S Get up close and personal with white water in the Gorges Kingfisher de l’Allier (Chapelle Sainte-Marie-des-Chazes) 6 - AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR - 7 Seek the meaning of life on the Santiago de Compostela route (Chapelle de Rochegude) They did not know it was THS impossible, so they did it. A OOTP Mark Twain F Be curious in the Cloister & CULTURE at La Chaise-Dieu Abbey Gaze in wonder at Saint-Julien Basilica in Brioude 8 - AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR - 9 The Gorges de la Loire from Chazelles (Monistrol-sur-Loire) SaILING THROUGH UNTAMED SECRETS TERRITORY OF THE STONES Jérôme is passionate about the Gorges de la Loire and it’s obvious. This boat is undoubtedly the When he joins your «canoe» trip most natural way to see the ba- FISHING FOR it’s like he’s opening the doors into salt giants and stone villages that his own wild land that he wants to ADVENTURE seem to watch over the furrowed protect. He tells us the story of ot- Gorges de l’Allier. Then we stop Steeve is a master at finding the ters, red kites and snowy mespilus. for a coffee on the sun-soaked best fishing spots in the Allier. RIVER As we’re paddling along we can see banks of Lavoûte-Chilhac and a What could be better than a canoe the natural symbiosis that we’re stroll in Vieille-Brioude’s parks. EXPLORER to reach them? Two days unear- quietly caught up in. T OF AN We set off from Bageasse beach thing our inner trappers with bi- If you see a canoe with some CanoeingTHE staR with a guide on a nautical trail® to vouacs to boot... funny explorers on board with ADVENTURE! find out more about these waters Lavoûte-sur-Loire in Aurec-sur- «It’s time to sample local speciali- thermometers in one hand and teeming with salmon. Loire: velay-eaux-vives.fr. ties cooked on the barbecue. The nets and masks in the other: Hire also available in atmosphere at that very moment is stop! It’s Allierypso: a floating the Retournac/Bas-en- at its height. Everyone relives their Ages 6 and up. Half-day, full day scientific base jam-packed with Basset areas: tourisme- day with a head full of memories Venturing off the beaten track means choosing another or 3-day trip from Prades to Au- fun-filled educational equipment. marchesduvelayrochebaron.fr and images! Just like the fishing way to paddle. So we’re leaving the overcrowded zon: 20/25km per day (approx. A beaver skull is unearthed and the ot-des-sucs.fr scenes in «A River Runs Through It» waterways to go on a real adventure: 5 hrs). Accommodation in B&Bs, investigation into the rodent be- Confolent/Aurec-surLoire : starring Brad Pitt. Everyone takes stopover gîtes or campsites. Solo gins. Tracks on the beach spark our one which opens our eyes to the world so we can get to aurec-sports.fr their turn to tell their best jokes. or guided village tours. curiosity that draws us to the semi- grips with our surroundings. The laughter is infectious. We’re all tonic-aventure.fr aquatic mammals. A discussion completely disconnected from our gorges-allier.com about water levels and the river’s everyday lives. Mission accom- ot-brioude.fr hydrology is clear as crystal. plished for the monitors and their trappers.» Éric, fishing enthusiast. «The highlight of the day was passing through Lavoûte-Chilhac where Look out for them in summer as the river carves out an «omega» around the stunning village. On top of you go round a bend between Trapper canoe fishing breaks in that there were dozens of kingfishers, white-throated dippers, herons, Langeac and Brioude (Les Pieds à the Allier or horseback fishing in the cormorants and cows! We’re even sleeping with them tonight...» Terre). Loire: emotionpeche.com lespiedsaterre.fr Paul and Philippe during «La Grande Traversée»: a unique challenge from Geneva to Saint-Nazaire that they did in summer 2017. 10 - AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR AUVERGNE- XP RI NC .FR - 11 La Tallide, bend in the Allier River in Saint-Vénérand, the birthplace of Atlantic salmon Grayling, a wild aggressive fish sought-after by sport fishing fans. Salmon leaping out of the Allier’s water Auvergne grayling, The chef’s favourite fish SHEDDING LIGHT ON AUVERGne’s GRAYLING AREA MEET A GREAT Is there a pretender to the salmon’s MIGRATOR throne? Grayling... The Allier River is an incredible breeding ground Salmon reigns supreme here. Eve- for species that only live in fres- ry bridge over the Allier from Lan- hwater. Grayling is one of them and geac to Brioude salutes it with the it’s also a fantastic bioindicator. plaque «Allier, rivière à saumons» Hurray, remember that there are (Allier, salmon river).