Berlin: “Is this real life?” the ultimate guide

With our sincerest thanks to Marcus, Alex, Caroline, Sofia, Nina, Matt, Lutz and Jeremy. Tours...... 8 Contents Food...... 9 Nightlife...... 10 Shopping...... 11 Outdoors...... 12 Introduction...... 1 Contributors...... 13 German...... 2 Suriving Berlin...... 4 contents Transport...... 3 History...... 4 Galleries...... 5 Introduction 1 Museums...... 6 Sites...... 7 Good to know 2 Language 4 Transport 6 History 10 Galleries 14 Museums 22 Sights 28 Tours 32 Food and Drink 42 Coffee and Cake 50 Street food 56 Nightlife 60 Shopping 70 Second Hand 74 Markets 76 Outdoors 78 Contributors 86

2 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 3 Artistic talent can also be seen in the city’s architecture such as the WILLKOMMEN IN BERLIN... emblematic Reichstag. This building features the glass dome designed by Norman Foster. Upon arrival the very question of “Is this real life?” may pop into your head. It Other lesser known buildings from the GDR era have been converted into may be after your first time seeing someone face down on a park bench with distinctive night clubs. Whether a historical outing or a night on the town, a Pilsner beer in hand, or perhaps it will be after you read a German menu for visitors are sure to get a taste of the old and the new. the first time and attempt to order your food. Nevertheless, the culture shock A guide to Berlin would be incomplete without mentioning the vast array is one to note. of food the city has to offer. From traditional spätzle noodles to the more The city of Berlin is known for its unique and anti-corporate economy with prominent kebab, all taste buds are catered for, even on the strictest of budg- independently created lifestyles. Poor but sexy, Berlin is a diverse and vibrant ets. Not to mention the copious amounts of coffee and cake consumed daily city with a tumultuous historical past. Noted as Europe’s ‘Capital of Cool’, such as the rich German chocolate cake complimented by a steaming latte Berlin is Germany’s largest city. macchiato. Berlin is a city of culture and is shaped by encompassing a diverse range of When you’re not eating cake and drinking coffee Berlin is the perfect place creative industries and serves as a popular tourist destination. It is home to practice retail therapy. For those with more than a pretty penny in their to the famous Humboldt University, where Albert Einstein and Karl Marx pockets, The Gallery of Lafayette is the perfect place to take a stroll through studied. If that groundbreaking historical fact doesn’t enthral you, maybe the designer stores. Those shopping on a shoe string budget will appreciate the art will. The whole city is a canvas made up of street art, graffiti and stickers plethora of second hand shops and markets scattered all over the city. -MC & leaving little space untouched. Art covering everything from telephone poles, HH shop fronts to U-Bahn stations and even the pavement itself.

4 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 1 Good to know...

> Emergency Numbers Police: 110 > Do not attempt to jaywalk; traf- Ambulance: 112 fic is moving at a fast pace and if Fire: 112 you jaywalk in front of a mother and her children, prepare to be > Recycling plays a big part in the scorned for setting a bad exam- Berlin community. Save your bot- ple. tles during your stay and return them to your local market to > Stay out of the bike lanes! Bik- receive a small reimbursement. ing is a huge method of transpor- tation and getting in their way > Have cash on you at all times. will only cause a fuss on the Berlin is made up of many inde- streets. pendent companies, meaning most places will not take credit > Tips are appreciated in bars cards or any other type of plastic and restaurants, ranging between 5%-10% depending > Be prepared to pay to use on the service public restrooms. These fees’s can range from 30cents to €1 depend- > Expect to pay a glass ing on how populated the area is. deposit at most bars and clubs ranging from 50c > Have cash on you at all times. to €1 Berlin is made up of many inde- pendent companies, meaning > You can drink in the most places will not take credit streets! cards or any other type of plastic. > Most people do > Internet can be found at various speak English, but it cafés, coffee shops and shops is good to know the noted as “internet cafes”. Inside basics so turn the you will pay between 30-80 page for a crash cents per half hour to use their course. computers, head phones and/or webcams.

> The Germans love their spar- kling water. When requesting still water, ask for “ohne gas”. For Sparkling water, ask for “mit gas”.

2 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 3 Although many Berliners speak English, especially the younger generation, it doesn’t hurt to try and speak the lo- Directions cal language. A phrase words and phrases should help make your stay feel a bit more authentic, and even endear you to Excuse me Entschuldigen Sie the locals. Where is: Wo ist: The Toilet die Toilette The train station der Bahnhof The airport der Flughafen Pleasentries The police die Polizei Hello Hallo Go... Gehen Sie... Goodmorning/afternoon/night Guten Morgen/abend/nacht Left Links How are you? Wie geht es Ihnen/dir? Right Rechts I am good and you? Mir gehts gut, und dir? Straight ahead Geradeaus What is your name? Wie heiße du? Along Entlang My name is.... Ich heiße Go along this street Gehen Sie diese Straße entlang! Do you speak English? Sprechen Sie English? It is Es ist I don’t understand Ich verstehe nicht Near here Nah hier Please Bitte Thankyou Danke Bye Tschüs Goodbye Auf Wiedersehen Conversation

What’s new? Was gibt’s neues I missed you so much Du hast mir so gefelht I want... Shall we go clubbing? Clubben gehen? I want... Ich hatte gern... I have a hangover Ich habe einen Kater a glass of wine ein Glas Wein I am hungry like a wolf Ich bin hungrig wie ein wolf four beers vier Bier I am looking for John Ich suche John a single room das Einzelzimmer What are you looking at? Was gukst du? a double room das Doppelzimmer In your dreams! Du träumst wohl! Is this real life? Ist dies das wahre Leben?

4 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 5 Public transport Tram The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) The eastern side of the city is operates the city’s S-Bahn, U-Bahn, served by an extensive network of tram and bus networks, which all trams. They stop frequently, but interconnect very efficiently, making generally travel on a dedicated sec- travel simple. BVG’s website (www. tion of the road, meaning they are bvg.de) provides a journey planner, quite quick. Most tram services run which helps you find the fastest 24 hours a day. route and is regularly updated with service alterations. To make life easier, be sure to grab maps for both the S-/U-Bahn net- work and the tram services. Conven- iently, both the S-/U-Bahn network and the tram lines are colour-coded, in addition to being numbered. Buses The bus network operates through- out the day and night, and also serves as a handy late-night re- placement for trains Monday to Thursday nights. In addition to the metro buses are the express buses, denoted by an X, which have fewer stops. Services run frequently during U-Bahn the day and from 12:30 am to 4:30 transport The U-Bahn is the city’s metro train am Monday to Friday they serve as a service. Stops are frequent and replacement for the U-Bahn. {transport} conveniently located, meaning you’ll generally arrive close to your desti- nation. Monday to Thursday trains At first it the sheer size of Berlin can be quite run from 4:30 am to 12:30 am and all night on Fridays, Saturdays and daunting, but the variety of both public and Sunday. private transport options help shrink the dis- S-Bahn Airports The S-Bahn is an urban rail ser- Two airports currently serve Berlin: tances and will take you to pretty much any- vice and extends further than the Tegel (to close in mid-2012) and U-Bahn, but stops less frequently. Schönefeld. Served by numerous where you want Given its reach, it is very useful for buses, it is easy to get from Tegel daytrips to places such as Potsdam or to any of the main train stations. Wannsee. Trains run from 4:30 a.m. Those travelling to Schönefeld have to 12:30 a.m. Monday to Thursday, fewer complications, as it’s served with additional services on Friday, by both the bus and S-Bahn. Saturday and Sunday nights.

6 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Transport 7 Tickets Before travelling be sure to 4-Trip Ticket check which sections of the city Cheaper than buying the equivalent you’ll be exploring, as Berlin is number of short trip or single tickets, divided to into three tariff zones: this combination ticket allows an un- A, B and C. A encompasses the limited number of connections in the area within the city’s circular AB zone within a two-hour period. S-Bahn lines, while B extends Just make sure that you validate the further out and C technically ticket at the beginning of each two- reaches into Brandenburg. Most hour period. Adult tickets cost €8.2 sights are within zones A and B, and reduced tickets cost €5.3. so you should be fine with an AB Weekly ticket. Short trip Day tickets An option to consider if you’re staying Tickets can be bought from ticket If you’re not going any further than This option allows greater flexibil- for a while as it’s cheaper than sev- counters at larger train stations three rail stations or six bus or tram ity, as there are no restrictions on eral daily tickets. An adult AB ticket and many convenient stores stops within the AB zone, these tick- direction and are valid from the time costs €27.2 and an ABC ticket costs within train stations. Multi- ets are very practical. Adult tickets of validation until 3 a.m. the next €33.5. lingual machines on platforms cost €1.4 and reduced tickets cost day. Adult AB tickets cost €6.3 and dispense tickets and generally €1.1. reduced tickets cost €4.5. For an ABC Monthly accept cards, cash and coins. You ticket, adults pay €6.8, while reduced For those staying longer in Berlin, a can also buy tickets on trams and Single tickets tickets are €5.1. monthly ticket is an excellent option. buses. These tickets allow two hours of With a Day Pass, you can travel as AB tickets cost €74 and ABC tickets Finally, and it almost goes with- travel in one direction. An AB adult often as you want on the day printed cost €91. Two options are available: out saying, make sure you travel ticket costs €2.3, while a reduced on the ticket or from validation of a ticket for the calendar month, or a with valid ticket, otherwise you’ll ticket is €1.4. Adult ABC tickets cost the ticket on starting your journey ticket valid for a month from the day risk a €40 on-the-spot fine. €3 and reduced tickets cost €2.1. until 3.00 a.m. on the following day. it is validated. 8 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 9

History {historie}

The Weimar Republic ablaze (by parties still unknown), Although Berlin was founded in 1244 by grandsons of Albert the Bear, which allowed Adolf Hitler to from whom the city possibly gets its beloved mascot (but no one is suspend the constitution through really sure), its modern history begins after the proclamation of the the use of emergency powers. Weimar Republic in November 1918. Following World War One, the Through either cunning or luck he Treaty of Versailles forced Germany and her allies to pay reparations. had installed himself as a dictator. To do so, the government chose to print money, which led to stagger- By April 1933 the Nazi Party was ing rates of inflation (with prices doubling every two days at one point already instructing people not to in 1923). Only after new arrangements with the Allied Powers and buy from shops owned by Jew- improved government policy did the economic situation improve. Con- ish people. Official edicts grew sequently, the city experienced a surge of creative output during the incredibly violent – in November Golden Twenties: the sleek, modern forms of Bauhaus were conceived; 1938 the Kristallnacht pogrom Fritz Lang filmed the masterpiece Metropolis; and Bertolt Brecht and resulted in the destruction of Kurt Weill produced the Die Dreigroschenoper. many Jewish stores and the ar- However, even before the Wall Street crash of 1929, there were al- rest and death of thousands of ready hundreds of thousands of people unemployed. Their discontent Jews. Such despicable governance fuelled the extreme left- and right-wing political parties of the day – was only the beginning. At the the Communists and Adolf Hitler’s Nazi Party had running gun bat- Wannsee Conference in 1942, top tles in the streets. Eventually the Nazi Party secured enough popular Nazi officials met to discuss the support and was elected to the city parliament in 1929. Rumblings of Final Solution: Jews were to be future disaster could already be heard. exterminated from the German territories. The following Holo- National Socialism caust claimed the lives of over six Although the Nazis had their roots in Munich, they quickly established million Jews, in addition to other a formidable presence in the nation’s capital. Due to pressure from societal groups despised by the both sides of politics, the liberal republic was crumbling and in January Nazis. It would not be long before 1933 Adolf Hitler became Chancellor of Germany, giving birth to the the population at large experi- Third Reich. Not long afterwards, in February, the Reichstag was set enced immense suffering.

10 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 11 World War Two ish and American sectors were in the reached breaking point: a civilian upris- 1989, after a Politbüro member inad- As the capital of Germany, Berlin western half, while the Soviet Union ing across the DDR on 17 June 1953 vertently announced at a press confer- formed the heart of the Nazi Party’s controlled the eastern sector. The was suppressed by Soviet bullets, which ence that East Germans were permitted administration, meaning its capture importance of the city was heightened claimed 153 lives. to cross the border into the West. Both was a prime objective for the Allies. by the fact that it was within the zone Tensions increased further when, dur- Ossis and Wessis were seen celebrating Air raids became increasingly common of Germany controlled by the Soviet ing the night of 13 August 1961, the on the Wall; some armed with ham- after 1943, with tens of thousands of Union, becoming a microcosm of the DDR began constructing a wall around mers chipped pieces off pieces of the bombs dropped on various targets, Cold War and associated ideologi- West Berlin, physically isolating it from Wall as mementos. Within a year, on claiming scores of civilian lives. Soviet cal tensions. In May 1949, the three the rest of the FRG. People awoke to 3 October 1990, the DDR merged with forces reached the city in April 1945, western powers relinquished control of find that they were separated from the BRD and Berlin became the official resulting in the Battle of Berlin. Refus- their respective sectors and family, friends and even their work- capital of a reunified Germany. ing to surrender, Adolf Hitler commit- the Bundesrepublik Deutschland How- places. Over the following decades ted suicide in his Führerbunker in April ever, West Berlin remained the sym- the sophistication of the Berlin Wall Today Poor, but Sexy 1945 and the city was captured in May bolic capital. In spite of earlier efforts increased, resulting in a death strip: Over 90 years after the founding of the 1945. Due to the city’s importance, by the Soviets to limit access to West mine fields, guardtowers, concrete Weimar Republic, Berlin today is once France, the Soviet Union, the United Berlin, resulting in the Berlin Airlift, walls 3.6 metres high, barbed wire and again a global cultural capital bursting Kingdom and the United States had, in which involved a year-long airborne dog patrols made escape an incredibly with dynamism and flamboyancy. With 1944, already decided on its division delivery of supplies to the West, the treacherous affair. Notwithstanding the a focus on technology, talent and toler- after the war. western half of the city remained an authorities’ efforts, the people’s desire ance, Berlin attracts artists, musicians, oasis in the surrounding Soviet zone. for freedom could not be contained fashion designers, writers and other A City Divided Later that year, in October, the indefinitely. creative types from all over the world. Although immediately after World War Deutsche Demokratische Republik Although it is a city steeped in history, Two the Soviet Union occupied the (DDR) was formed, with East Berlin as Reunification displaying the many scars of its cheq- entire city, the Allies soon divided it its capital. Not long after the start of Finally, after more than 40 years of divi- uered past, it looks towards an exciting amongst themselves. The French, Brit- Communist rule discontent sion, the Wall collapsed on 9 November future. -CWW

12 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 13 In the heady days of the 1970s, David Bowie described Berlin as “the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine”. Amazingly, he could have easily been describing the present-day metropolis with its multitude of artistic- of ferings from all ages of history and all corners of the world. Ancient stone statues and bronze shields can be found just as readily as shimmering Impressionist paintings by Monet or Pissarro. Exquisite oil paintings by Old Masters, such as Botticelli and Rembrandt, are not far from bold modern- ist works by Dalí or Picasso. Warhol’s giant silkscreens and Judd’s sleek minimalist pieces can be seen close to the cutting-edge installations and multimedia assemblages of contemporary art. On the following pages you’ll find a selection of museums and galleries, but be assured, the city offers many more for you discover. -CWW g alleries & Museu m s {galerien & museen}

14 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 15 East Side Gallery Neue Nationalgalerie Dalí – Die Ausstellung am Pots- Mühlenstraße 1, Friedrichshain Potsdamer Straße 50, Tiergarten damer Platz S-/U-Bahn Warschauer Straße, S5/ S-/U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz, S1/S2/ Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte S7/S75/S3 or U1 S25 or U2 S-/U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz, S1/S2/S25 www.eastsidegallery.com Tue-Fri 10 am-6 pm, Thu 10 am-10 or U2 pm, Sat-Sun 11 am-6 pm Mon-Sat 12 pm-8 pm, Sun 10 am-8 pm Adult €10, Concession €5 Adults €11, Concession €9 www.smb.museum/smb/standorte Beside the Spree stands the longest www.daliberlin.de remaining section of the Berliner Mauer. In addition to its historical significance and sheer scale, crowds Upon entering this gallery for modern If you’re greeted by a red plastic couch are attracted to the 1.3 km of art art, you might wonder if you’re in the resembling a pair of lips and a white on display, which forms the largest right place. Near-silence pervades the piano resting in a shallow pool of water, open-air gallery on Earth. spacious entry hall as light streams in you know you’ve arrived somewhere In 1990, after the fall of the Mauer in through towering panes of glass and re- surreal. Set over two levels, with almost 1989, artists from all corners of the flects off the polished stone floor. World all explanatory information in Ger- world were invited to give creative famous as the ‘temple of light and glass’, man, the Dalí exhibit presents over 230 expression to their thoughts and it was designed by Mies van der Rohe etchings, sketches, woodcut prints and feelings on the city’s former divi- and opened in 1968. To reach the vast photogravures by the Spanish master of sion, oppressive rule in the East and exhibition halls you’ll have to go down a the dreamscape. The majority of these the significance of reunification. An staircase. works are representations of famous eclectic mix of styles is represented, The works themselves range from the literary tales, from an expressive yet with vividly coloured, abstract pieces beginning of the 20th century through sombre take on Faust through to a suit- next to works displaying a distinct to the end of the 1960s. Presented in ably bizarre and irreverent view of Alice sense of political idealism. temporary exhibitions, all pieces are in Wonderland. At 100 pieces, Dalí’s Even images inspired by Pink Floyd’s drawn from the gallery’s approximately interpretation of Dante’s Divina Com- The Wall make an appearance. 2,500 piece collection. A stand-out media is the largest and perhaps most Among the multitude of paintings, painting is Ernst Kirchner’s Potsdamer impressive work on display. It contrasts Susanne Kunjappu-Jellinek’s Curricu- Platz from 1914. In an Expressionist twisted, violent visions of hell and purga- lum Vitae stands as one of the most style, complete with bright and wild tory with angelic visions of heaven. A unassuming, yet most evocative. This colours, two life-sized ladies of the night separate room on the ground floor loops work presents the Mauer’s résumé, are depicted standing on a traffic island various video works associated with Dalí, with the number of roses for each at Potsdamer Platz. Jagged brushwork including a highly unusual advertisement year corresponding to and com- amplifies the lively, but almost unset- for French chocolate and the infamous memorating the lives lost attempting tling, mood. Works by other artists, such black and white Un Chien Andalou, a 16 to overcome the deadly barrier. as Dix, Grosz, Picasso and Munch, also minute silent film notorious for depict- A number of pieces also quote vari- feature in this important collection. If ing the meeting of a razor blade and ous writers, politicians and philoso- you feel like stepping outside, stroll west an eyeball. While many of the pieces phers. So long as you don’t mind the across the gallery and pass through the feature his signature motifs, such as the legions of two-legged cameras snap- glass doors to arrive at a quiet sculpture melting clocks, crutches and ants, none ping away, and the bustle of Müh- garden. of his famous oil paintings are on display. lenstraße, this impressive outdoor With only the sky above and lush creep- Nevertheless, this permanent exhibit gallery is an experience truly unique ers on the concrete walls, you’re free to provides a comprehensive insight into to Berlin. contemplate the beautiful sculptures by the vast output of this influential 20th artists such as Renoir. century artist. -CWW

16 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 17 C/O Berlin Berlinische Galerie - many famous 20th century works, by Oranienburger Straße 35/36, Mitte Landesmuseum für Moderne Kunst, artists such as Rauschenberg and Kiefer. S-Bahn Oranienburger Straße, S1/S2/S25 Fotografie und Architektur Among them hang enormous silkscreens Mon-Sun 11 am-8 pm Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg by Warhol, such as a garishly coloured, Adult €10, Concession €5 (with a Bahn U-Bahn Moritzplatz, U8 towering portrait of Chairman Mao, Card, admission is reduced to €8) Wed-Mon 10 am-6 pm smiling wryly. At the other end of the www.co-berlin.com Adults €8, Concession €5, 1st Monday of building, a winding corridor bearing every month €4 the pale green tiles of an underground www.berlinischegalerie.de station leads to the Rieckhallen: a series of five large rooms hosting works by the Any closer to the station and trains likes of minimalists Sol Le Witt and Don- would burst through the walls, this Re-opening in 2004 and occupying a ald Judd. In the fifth room permanently photography gallery hosts temporary former glass warehouse, this two-storey stands Bruce Nauman’s monumental exhibits and finds itself in the or- gallery splits its space between tempo- installation Room with My Soul Left Out, ange-and-red-brick shell of a former rary exhibits and its permanent collec- Room That Does Not Care. Painted jet post office. Although the two-storey tion of paintings, photographs, sketches black, one vertical and two horizontal space has been renovated, you and architectural drawings. Downstairs, wooden corridors intersect to form a wouldn’t know it – in some areas the 10 metre high, gleaming white walls large structure, lit only by the incessant there are flecks of paint over the of the main hall accommodate larger, glow of six orange lights within. Upon dirty, bare concrete floor, while in temporary adventures in contemporary reaching the silent centre, visitors can others the grimy linoleum is tearing. Hamburger Bahnhof – Museum für Despite whirring fans to cool observ- art, while other smaller rooms offer stand over a metal grate and peer down Gegenwart ers, you can work up quite a sweat space for more personal pieces. Two sets into an abyss. Best experienced alone, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Moabit wandering around the ground floor of stairs connect the ground and second this work instils feelings of alienation S-/U-Bahn Hauptbahnhof, S3/S5/S7/ during summer. Don’t be surprised if floors and intersect half-way to create and isolation, as intended. If that’s too S75 or U55 upstairs you find pages of paint peel- a small platform from which you can gloomy, check the exhibition calendar. Tue-Fri 10 am-6 pm, Sat 11 am-8 pm, ing from the ceiling or if the seem- survey the lower level. In contrast to the The temporary exhibits of contemporary Sun 11 am-6 pm ingly ancient wooden floor groans vast first floor, the second provides more art mean this gallery always displays Adult €12, Concession €6 (entry to per- underfoot. Unexpectedly, given the intimate space, with lower ceilings and fresh, yet also classic pieces. manent and special exhibitions) building’s prior purpose, you’ll wan- softer lighting. It presents works drawn www.hamburgerbahnhof.de der onto a forlorn-looking basket- from the gallery’s permanent collec- ball court with worn markings and tion, which covers major German artistic scuffed varnish. A lone backboard, movements from 1880 to 1980. sans ring, still hangs at one end. Ooz- Expect to see oil paintings of the con- Bright blue neon lights fastened to the ing character, this dilapidated, even servative Wilhelmine period, the social 19th century façade of this former train decaying, ambiance contrasts with criticism of Neue Sachlichkeit (‘New station hint at the two floors of modern the monochrome, freshly painted Objectivity’) during the Weimar Repub- and contemporary art inside. Founded plywood walls which display the ar- lic, propaganda-laden photos from the in 1996, the expansive gallery space ray of photographs and accompany- Nazi period, along with German artists’ presents works from its permanent ing information. Not only have works interpretations of Abstract Expression- collection alongside temporary exhibits. by established artists like Jeff Wall ism and Surrealism after World War II. In what could be mistaken for an echo and Gregory Crewdson been exhib- Although the collection focuses on art chamber, the historic hall, buttressed by ited here, the Talents programme, produced in Berlin, it nonetheless con- metal girders, accommodates large-scale run as an open entry competition, tains works by important German artists, works. Opposite the short-term exhibits allowing aspiring photographers to such as Otto Dix and Max Liebermann. of the west wing, the east side houses reach a wider audience.

18 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 19 Gemäldegalerie from the surrounding dark tones to gaze emphasising the play of light: the sun’s Matthäikirchplatz 4, Tiergarten at the viewer, while his velvet beret and rays glitter across a flowing stream and S-/U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz, fur-trimmed coat attest to his success. the chestnut tree’s bright pink flowers, S1/S2/S25 or U2 Given the number and beauty of other while the light-blue sky above bears a Tue-Wed, Fri-Sun 10 am-6 am, works on display, a visit will not be rosy tinge. The third floor focuses on Thu 10 am-10 pm forgotten. Romanticism, as exemplified by Caspar Adult €8, Concession €4 David Friedrich and multi-talented Karl www.smb.museum Friedrich Schinkel. Gothic cathedrals Alte Nationalgalerie highlighted by the sunshine and solitary Am Lustgarten, Mitte figures gazing at colossal mountains and Forming part of the Kulturforum cul- S-Bahn Hackescher Markt, S3/S5/ awe-inspiring expanses of the ocean tural precinct, the Old Masters gallery S7/S75 instil a sense of the sublime majesty presents around 1,500 exquisite works Tue-Wed, Fri-Sun 10 am-6 pm, of nature in the beholder. With many of European art from the 13th to 18th Thu 10 am-10 pm other wonderful works from a variety centuries. The visually stunning collec- Adult €10, Concession €5 of schools and styles, most anyone is tion features pieces by Dürer, van Eyck, www.smb.museum bound to be impressed by one of the Rubens, Rembrandt, Botticelli, Caravag- highlight’s of Berlin’s huge museum gio and Velázquez, in addition to many scene. other artists. After walking inside, you’ll Stately and classically-inspired, complete find yourself in a domed entrance room, with columns and capitals, this three leading directly into the main hall. storey building houses a comprehensive Although this vast space does not itself collection of art from the 19th century. feature any works, as the large circular After walking through three tall, heavy windows allow unfiltered sunlight to doors you’ll emerge in an opulent, mar- flicker across the columns, in the centre ble-floored lobby, from where you can there does stand a shallow pool, from move on to explore the priceless treas- which short, gleaming metal pillars rise. ures of the gallery. On the ground floor Refreshed and calmed by the enchanting you will find classicist sculptures, such trickle of the water, you can head north as Schadow’s marble bust of Goethe, as towards the German, Dutch and Flemish well as 19th century Realist paintings, painters, or south towards the Italian, with several works by Adolph Menzel Spanish, French and English painters. and Gustave Courbet among them. After All works are set against walls clad in heading up a beautiful marble stair-case, palely-coloured fabric, as opposed to the neatly draped in a red carpet, to the usual stark white, which makes extended second floor, you’ll be met by a series of viewing a pleasure. expertly-crafted neo-Baroque sculptures. The gallery also has the world’s largest However, this floor’s true gems are the collection of Rembrandts, all 16 execut- masterpieces of French Impression- ed in his signature style of thick paint ism on display, among them works by and earthy hues. Of the several dis- Cézanne, Manet, Monet and Pissarro. played in their own room, Self-portrait A jewel of the gallery’s collection is Re- with velvet beret from 1634 is a high- noir’s quintessential impressionist piece light. The artist’s thoughtful expression, Horse-chestnut tree in flowerfrom 1881. emphasised by a golden light, emerges With vivid colours and brisk brushwork Renoir painted an idyllic scene

20 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 21 In fact, the exhibitions move beyond a flexibility can accommodate larger Tickets for the state museums survey of art and provide an insight into installations and multimedia works. While by no means outrageous, given Museums various facets of ancient life. In addition Exhibitions are temporary and at least the immense number of works on dis- to painstakingly crafted marble statues once a year site-specific works are com- play, a visit to one of the Berlin of gods, such as the sultry Aphrodite or missioned, which may transform open state museums (Staatliche Museen zu noble Apollo, there are displays of chil- space into a more private affair. Despite Berlin) (www.smb.museum) will gener- dren’s toys, such as a yo-yo from the 4th the focus on 21st century works, those ally cost at least €6. If there’s a special century BC. Upstairs, masterfully crafted looking for pieces by emerging artists exhibit on, the cost may rise to €12 or Etruscan armour and shields from the may be disappointed, as exhibits gener- more. To help keep these costs down, a 8th century BC greet you, before the ally revolve around artists with brand few options are available. exhibition moves into the Roman period. power – past exhibitions have shown Firstly there’s the three-day ticket, An entire room is devoted to immacu- objets d’art by Koons and Rothko. Unfor- which allows entry to any of the state lately crafted busts of various impor- tunately, art seems to take second place museums within three days. This tant figures: you could be mistaken for to commerce, as the clatter of dishes in ticket costs €19 for adults and €9.5 for believing that Augustus and Cleopatra the café and chatter of customers in the concession holders, but you may need were intently staring at you. Curiously, shop can be heard in the exhibition halls. to pay extra for entry to special exhibi- there is also a room devoted to the ‘Art Depending on the particular exhibition tions. For those staying a bit longer, of Love in Antiquity’. Within are displays configuration, you might even need to consider purchasing an annual ticket Altes Museum of both tempered and explicit depictions trek through the café and shop to con- (Jahreskarte), which covers entry to all Am Lustgarten, Mitte S-Bahn Hackescher Markt, S3/S5/ of sexual acts, along with talismans fea- tinue your gallery visit. Nonetheless, the permanent exhibitions. At €40 for adults S7/S75 turing exaggerated genitalia, meant to variety of high-profile works on display or €20 for concession holders, this ticket Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun 10 am-6 pm, grant strength and fertility. Before leav- makes this gallery worth a visit. is excellent value for those who plan on Thu 10 am-10 pm ing, be sure to walk around the domed attending several museums or want to Adult €8, Concession €4 rotunda to gaze at the 18 striking marble thoroughly explore a few. If you’re seek- www.smb.museum statues of various Greek gods and other ing the complete museum experience mythical creatures. you could alternatively purchase an annual ticket PLUS (Jahreskarte PLUS). Although pricey, at €80 for adults and Built between 1823 and 1830, this mu- Deutsche Guggenheim €40 for concession holders, this ticket seum stands as the pinnacle of German Unter den Linden 13/15, Mitte provides entry to all permanent and Neoclassicism and is one of Schinkel’s U-Bahn Französische Straße, U6 special exhibitions. most famous designs. Up the 21 steps Mon-Sun 10 am-8 pm Before setting off on your cultural tour, and past the 18 fluted columns lies an Adult €4, Concession €3, admission Free on Monday just be sure to check that there aren’t impressive collection of artefacts from www.deutsche-guggenheim.de TIPS any exceptions for particular museums, classical antiquity. especially with the three-day ticket. The ground floor is devoted to Greek art, while Roman and Etruscan pieces popu- Taking Photos Cloakrooms and lockers late the upper floor. Although rooms on While you are usually allowed to take Situated on the ground floor of the As you generally can’t take bags or coats both levels are divided into topics, such photos free of charge in many muse- Deutsche Bank building, this museum into the exhibition rooms, lockers and as entertainment or mythology, ums and galleries, so long as your flash for 20th and 21st century art opened in cloakrooms come in handy. Cloakrooms it is a testament to the careful and is turned off, it’s still worth checking 1997 as a partnership between Deutsche are free for visitors, while a €1 or €2 considered curation that, when taken with the staff. Sometimes, especially Bank and the Solomon R. Guggenheim coin deposit will be needed for the lock- together, they also create an informative with temporary exhibits or rare arte- Foundation. At 510 m2 it’s smaller than ers, so just make sure you have a coin or chronological overview of the respective facts, snapping a photo may result in other well-known galleries, yet its two on you. civilisations. you being told off.

22 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 23 Hatch Sticker Museum Brunnenstraße 196, Mitte, 3rd building back from the street U-Bahn Rosenthaler Platz, U8 Wed-Sat 12 pm-6 pm Mauermuseum – Museum Entry is free Haus am Checkpoint Charlie www.hatchkingdom.com Friedrichstraße 43-45, Kreuzberg U-Bahn Kochstraße, U6 Mon-Sun 9 am-10 pm with pressuriser and oxygen tank, used to Adult €12.50, Student €9.50 www.mauermuseum.de successfully escape from the Eastern Bloc. Befitting an establishment committed to Information is also provided on the East the underground street art movement, German secret police, the Stasi. Various the world’s only sticker museum finds For over 50 years, this museum has not excerpts from their secret files are displayed itself removed from the bustling streets limited its focus to the Berliner Mauer, and, perhaps unsurprisingly, show that even of Berlin. In contrast to the dull brick- but has also presented a variety of ob- the Mauermuseum was considered a threat work of the exterior, the stickers’ diverse jects related to former East Germany. and placed under surveillance. The west designs and saturated colours dazzle the More recently, it has also branched end, towards the exit, deals primarily with eyes. Meticulously arranged in simple out to cover topics such as human the Mauerfall, although unfortunately video display cases within their own white- rights and world religions. These broad footage of this important historic event is walled room, the assembly of stick- interests stem from the founder, Rainer absent. ers is loosely divided by theme: some Hildebrandt, who opened the original Over on the eastern side stand a series of celebrate skateboarding sub-culture, exhibition in an apartment in 1962. separate exhibitions, covering uprisings in while others critique politics and culture. Popularity soon dictated that the mu- other countries behind the Iron Curtain, Of particular note are renowned street seum expand and in 1963 it moved to Ronald Reagan (personal chainsaw in- artist Shepard Fairey’s OBEY images of a new, two-storey site directly adjacent cluded) and his foreign policy and Picasso’s André the Giant and his stylised portray- Checkpoint Charlie, where it remains to Guernica, among others. As evidence of als of Barack Obama. A separate room this day. engagement in contemporary events, displays stencil prints by various artists. After depositing any bags or checking there is even a section on the Arab Spring. The energetic and friendly owner, Oliver any coats downstairs, visitors return to The inclusion of these other exhibits dem- Baudach, himself involved in the street the ground floor to begin their journey. onstrates that the museum takes a stand scene, will be happy to answer any Photographs, text and audio-visual ma- against instances of oppression, while also queries you might have about his labour terial create a rich and detailed series committing itself to placing them within a of love, or to give you a brief tour of the of exhibits. The first two displays cover historical context. collection. In case Oli turns you into a fa- the July 1944 attempt to kill Hitler and Overall, there is a wealth of information natic too, the museum shop offers stick- the June 1953 uprising in Berlin against on display, ranging from factual presenta- ers, along with independently-published the East German government. After tions through to artistic interpretations of books on street art and a variety of emerging from the steep stairs onto the the suffering behind the Wall. In order to t-shirts. When Shepard Fairey described second floor, viewers are met with a appeal to a broad range of visitors, almost his art as being ‘in the name of fun and section devoted to the erection of the all text is presented in English, German observation’, he could easily have been Mauer and various escape attempts. and Russian. Finally, the exit through the describing this unique, niche museum, Particularly striking is an original, home- gift shop evinces a lack of nostalgia for the where both the objects on display and made diving suit, complete former East’s ideology. their impression are difficult to remove.

24 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 25 Neues Museum suggests an ambitious, but unfortunately depicts the epic battle between Greek Museum für Kommunication Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte awkward curation, and can be confusing. gods and the Giants, all in exacting de- Leipziger Straße 16, Mitte S-Bahn Hackescher Markt, S3/S5/ Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm S7/ S75 Nonetheless, the museum is still able to tail, with rippling muscles and anguished Adult €3, Concession €1.5 Mon-Wed, Sun 10 am-6 pm, provide an impressive survey of objects aces abounding. www.museumsstiftung.de Thu-Sat 10 am-8 pm stretching from the dawn of humanity, This remarkable relief encircles a 20 me- Adult €10, Concession €5 through one of the world’s earliest civili- tre wide, 27 step staircase, which leads www.smb.museum sations on to the Middle Ages. up to a partial reconstruction of the eponymous altar. Another impressive Immediately after entry to this museum piece is the Ishtar Gate. Constructed in you’re met by three robots standing in the 6th century BC and over 10 metres the lobby. They will encourage you to After being closed for 70 years, this tall, this arched gate was the awe-inspir- explore, learn and play interactive games museum re-opened in 2009 to become ing entrance to Babylon. on the ground floor. The means of com- home of the Egyptian museum and the Adorning the glistening glazed ultra- munication has sometimes given us the museum for pre- and early history. Four marine bricks is a relief depicting two opportunity to know too much about sprawling floors cover many epochs: symbols of the city: a bull and a dragon. each other, causing wars and heartache. from the earliest flint tools dating back Not to be outdone, the second floor also While it has its good and bad aspects, beyond 100,000 BC through to a silver has its own share of grand works, such each floor has its own delicate introduc- denier depicting Charlemagne from 800 as the façade of the Mshatta palace. tion to a form of telecommunication. AD. This work of brown limestone, lavishly Starting with Morse code, the museum On the three lower floors, visitors pri- decorated by intricate patterns and takes you through a time line of inven- marily find Egyptian works, such as stone reliefs featuring birds and other animals tions. The first telegraphs, telephones, sarcophagi covered in hieroglyphics amongst knotted branches and detailed radios and televisions make up the top and statues of rigid figures standing in leaves, is 47 metres long and five metres two floors of progressively more sophis- poses suggesting, but not representing, high. ticated means of communication. This movement. An especially popular sight, Aside from these massive reconstruc- arrangement leaves postcards and letters for which the museum is internationally Pergamonmuseum tions, there are also smaller artefacts, almost unnoticed in the magnificent dis- renowned, is the immaculately pre- Am Kupfergraben 5, Mitte such as Syrian alabaster statuettes from play of basic and fundamental forms of S-Bahn Hackescher Markt, S3/S5/ served bust of Queen Nefertiti. Despite around 2400 BC and delicate pure gold communication linking people together. being over 3000 years old, the richly- S7/S75 Persian earrings from the 5th century Mon-Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am- Overall the museum displays not just the coloured paint glows in the spotlight of 10pm AD. However, many of the descriptions tangible developments that make com- her glass cabinet. Her orangey-brown Adult €12, Concession €6 are in German. municating possible, but also explains skin contrasts with the radiant blue of www.smb.museum Nevertheless, these outstanding collec- the importance of and justification for her headdress, featuring a band of vivid tions attest to the wealth, power and the various means of communicating, red and green rectangles. As the creases sophistication of our ancient ancestors leaving you with an insight into the under her eyes and the slightly down- and solidify their place in human history. forms of connection all around you. -MC turned mouth suggest, this sculpture is Completed in 1930 after 20 years of construction, this enormous grey stone not an idealisation, but a more accurate museum proudly displays pieces from portrayal of this once powerful woman. the Collection of Classical Antiquities Moving further back in time, the top and the Museum of the Ancient Near floor houses exhibits covering the Stone East downstairs and the Museum of Age through to the Iron Age, complete Islamic Art upstairs. Most famous are the with skeletal remains and simple tools, colossal reconstructions of ancient build- although some pieces from these peri- ings. The Pergamon Altar, the first such ods can be seen on other floors of the marvel, is located in the main exhibition museum. This scattering of works hall. A 113 metre long Hellenistic frieze

26 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Galleries and Museums 27 Checkpoint Charlie parliament until 1933 when a devas- Friedrichstraße 43-45, tating fire destroyed most of it. The Kreuzberg U-Bahn Kochstraße, U6 National Socialist Party then rescinded its parliamentary significance, instead using its impressive stone structure as a Considered a must-see by most tour- propaganda tool. ists, this former border crossing was Suffering further damage during World an important point of contact between War II, it wasn’t completely restored East and West Germany. However, the until the 1990s. Reconstruction was checkpoint building is merely a replica of completed in 1999, just in time for the the old guardhouse; the original gate- return of the German parliament to way can now be found in the Allierten Berlin. Engraved with the words, Dem Museum (‘Museum of the Allied Forces’, Deutschen Volke (‘To the German peo- Clayallee 135, Dahlem). ple’) in 1916, the Reichstag continues From 1961 to 1990, Checkpoint Charlie to act as a significant symbol of national acted as the main crossing point for democracy. politicians and journalists. It is perhaps The new glass cupola designed by Lord

} most famous for the four day stand-off Norman Foster has become a world- between American and Soviet tanks that famous tourist attraction, turning the took place in October 1961. Unfortu- Reichstag into the most visited parlia- nately, Checkpoint Charlie fails to offer mentary building in the world. You can visitors any true sense of its historical visit the rooftop, which offers spectacu- importance. With inaccurate military lar panoramic views of the city, for free uniforms, a never-ending stream of tour- after registering for a time-slot online. ists and countless, tacky souvenir shops, Free audio guides provide comprehens the site is over-powered by consumer- ive information about the dome and the ism. While definitely still a must-see, it surrounding area. Guided tours of the should not to be taken too seriously. -HK interior are also available, which include explanations of the function, history and architecture of this noble building. -HK Reichstag Platz der Republik 1, Mitte U-Bahn Brandenburger Tor, U5, or Bus 100/200 Daily 8am-11pm Admission to Dome – free with reservation Guided Tours from €12 www.bundestag.de

Home to the German parliament, the Reichstag has had a turbulent history. Designed by Paul Wallot, it was built S ehenswürdigkeiten over a ten year period from 1884 to

si gh ts { 1894. The Reichstag housed the German

28 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 29 the extent of state-sanctioned oppression. of natural light and the constant drone Only after the dissolution of East Germany Soviet War Memorial of ventilation led to the nickname ‘the was the prison finally closed, later to be Puschkinallee submarine’. To add to the sense of diso- re-opened as a memorial. Treptower Park, Treptow rientation, an incandescent bulb in each The chilling site gives physical expression S-Bahn Treptower Park, S8/S41/S42/S46 of the cold cells glowed continuously. to the notion of an Orwellian nightmare Torture to extract confessions, both for and the dangers of rampant power. For Completed in 1949, the Soviet War crimes committed or merely alleged, the wretched individuals who suffered in Gedenkstätte Memorial in Treptower Park is a stunning was common. dismal conditions, ‘a boot stamping on Berlin-Hohenschönhausen commemorative space. Entering from the Genslerstraße 66, Hohenschönhausen In 1951, the site fell under the jurisdic- a human face - forever’ may well have seemed a vision of the future. park you are met by the solemn statue Visitor centre at Genslerstraße 13A tion of the Stasi, who also used it to of the Motherland weeping for her lost Tram M5 from S-/U-Bahn Alexanderplatz imprison political dissidents and per- sons. As you stroll down the wide, tree- to Freienwalder Straße, then a 10 minute ceived enemies of the state. Perhaps lined promenade the entrance to the walk down Freienwalder Straße in an acknowledgement of the extent burial ground is marked by two imposing Admission in a tour only, English-speak- of dissatisfaction in East Germany, a U- red granite Soviet flags, while at the base ing tour at 2:30 pm daily shaped, three-storey building was con- kneeling soldiers beckon. Adult €5, Concession €2.5 The stone steps lead down to five rectan- www.stiftung-hsh.de structed on the site toward the end of the 1950s. This new building contained gular lawns that form the centre of the over 200 cells and interrogation rooms. memorial field. These grass areas mark At the end of a quiet road, in what appears the graves of over 7,000 Soviet soldiers By keeping contact between prisoners to be a deteriorating industrial estate, stand who died during the Battle of Berlin in to a minimum, they were made to feel looming concrete walls and an imposing 1945. Running along the side of the park metal gate. Behind these insuperable barri- isolated and at the mercy of the au- are 16 limestone blocks depicting scenes ers lie the former grounds of a Soviet intern- thorities. Control was total: no one ever from the war and are etched with quotes ment camp, which later became the main escaped. There was no recourse to the from Joseph Stalin. Nevertheless, the remand prison for the Stasi (East Germany’s law; it was said that an inmate’s sen- structure that dominates this impressive secret police). Over two or so hours, the tence was determined by their behav- space is the magnificent, solid bronze informative guides lead visitors through the iour, especially during gruelling interro- effigy of a Soviet solider. Sitting atop a hill dystopian facility and provide an insight into gations. Sometimes the same questions which acts as the grave site for a further its history. would be repeated for hours, while at 200 soldiers, this symbolic statue depicts Immediately after World War II, the Soviets other times both interrogators and pris- a soldier with a lowered sword, holding designated the site as Special Camp No. 3, oners would sit in silence. The only time a freed German child in his arms and where ex-Nazis (proven or not) and critics standing on a broken swastika. This im- they were allowed outside was when of the Soviet regime were interred. Due to pressive, vast space serves as an inspiring they were put in outdoor cells dubbed public outcry, the camp was disbanded in memorial to the Soviet soldiers who lost 1946. However, the red-brick building was ‘tiger cages’. These cells had four bare their lives during World War II. -HK transformed into a prison and inmates were concrete walls and only a wire mesh forced to construct their cramped cells in above. Although never seen by inmates, the basement, away from prying eyes. At only a small rose garden punctuated the times 12 inmates were crammed into grossly dismal, grey surroundings. As a black inadequate accommodation: there was site, it never appeared on any maps of generally a lack of bedding and rations, and East Berlin, meaning only those on any a bucket in the corner served as a toilet in maps of East Berlin, meaning only those their concrete chamber. A lack who worked there were aware of

30 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Sights 31 Neue Wache Topographie des Terrors Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg and mentally disabled. Not only were of- Unter den Linden 4, Mitte ficial posters plastered to walls proclaim- S-/U-Bahn Friedrichstraße S1/S2/ S-/U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz, S1/S2/ S25/S3/S5/S7/S75 or U6 S25 or U2 ing them a burden to society, they were Mon-Sun 10 am-6 pm Documentary centre also sterilised and later murdered. For a www.berlin.de/orte/sehenswuer- Mon-Sun 10am-8pm, open air further explanation of the regime’s ac- digkeiten/neue-wache exhibit Mon-Sun 10am-8pm or until dark tions, a free audio guide is also available. Entry is free The emotional impact of this harrowing www.topographie.de/en content is accentuated by the buildings www.stiftung-denkmal.de form, as bare concrete walls and black Only a short distance west of the Mu- tile floors add to the sense of desolation. seumsinsel stands the Neue Wache war While it is immensely difficult to memorial. Designed by the architect Set on a site bordering the former Berlin comprehend the lack of humanity and Karl Friedrich Schinkel and built in 1818, Wall and containing the excavated ruins vile actions perpetrated, this project this exemplar of neoclassicism was orig- of Nazi prison cells, since 1987 this docu- certainly succeeds in providing a com- inally used as a guardhouse by Prussian mentary project concerns itself with the prehensive examination of this dreadful troops. However, it was redesigned in history of the Nazi party and those it chapter of Germany’s history. 1931 to venerate the war dead. Follow- persecuted. Outside, visitors walk past ing the division of Germany after World an exhibit narrating German history from War II, the East German government the Weimar Republic through to the end used it to commemorate the victims of of World War II. All of the displays stand fascism. After reunification its dedica- Brandenburger Tor in front of the decaying brick cells, in tion was changed again, this time to the Pariser Platz 7, Mitte which members of the Gestapo (the Nazi victims of war and tyranny. S-/U-Bahn Brandenburger Tor, S1/ secret police) tortured people deemed a After passing the columns and the S2 S25 or U55 threat to the government. Given the suf- dedications, translated into several fering experienced on the site, a bleak languages, visitors enter a cool, grey atmosphere rests over the surroundings, stone chamber with bare walls and Few other sights are as emblematic of reinforced by the field of grey stones en- floor. Beneath this sombre space rest Berlin as this towering city gate. Above compassing the documentary building. the remains of an unknown soldier the twelve columns, six on either side, Inside the rectangular building an and the ashes of a Nazi concentration stands the Quadriga: four horses pull a incredibly detailed exhibit describes the camp victim. In the centre stands an chariot, driven by Victoria, the Roman abhorrent history and actions of the enlarged version of Käthe Kollwitz’s goddess of victory. Today the imposing Third Reich, from the rise of the Nazi Mother with her Dead Son – a sorrowful structure stands between the American Party through to the post-war trials of bronze sculpture of a mourning mother and French embassies, but harks back those involved, some still continuing into cradling the slumped body of her dead to a much earlier period of the city’s the 21st century. son. Reminiscent of a tomb, the solemn history. Construction was completed in The presentations utilise a variety of interior is respectfully silent and only 1791 and since then it suffered consid- source material to paint a very grim the dull drone of traffic outside and erable damage in World War II, resided picture: historical documents detail the hushed tones of visitors can be in former East Berlin and been the the number of Jews in Europe, quotes heard. An oculus leaves the statue at site of celebrations after the reunifica- denounce ethnic minorities and photos, the mercy of the elements, serving as tion of Germany. As a testament to its most of which are black and white, de- a reminder of the pain and suffering significance, it continues to amaze the pict rallies of Nazi soldiers and cheering inflicted upon the innocent in the name countless tourists trying to capture its observers. Particularly revolting was the of bigotry and hate. grandeur. regime’s treatment of the physically

32 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Sights 33 walk through alone, creating feelings of to the first of two floors inside of the solitude and remembrance for the Jew- tower. The first floor provides a 360 ish victims of the Holocaust. Every one degree panoramic view of Berlin, of the stelae is a different height and where you can see everything from the width, creating a sea of a structured, yet Reichstag to The Brandenburg Gate. As Potsdamer Platz uneven monument that will create the you keep walking around the revolv- S-Bahn S1/S2/S25 seclusion a visitor needs to take a mo- ing sphere, maybe you will spot the U-Bahn U2 ment and remember. Olympic Stadium or Potsdamer Platz. If www.potsdamer-platz.net Aside from the memorial, there is an in- you get distracted by the cocktail bar, formation centre nearby that can answer don’t be afraid to enjoy your visit even any questions you might have. The infor- more with a lovely glass of Chardonnay A new beginning and a fresh sense of a mation centre is open from September at €4.50. If you have spare time, head modern world is the atmosphere that through April and is open from 10 am to upstairs to the second floor where the is surrounded in Potsdamer Platz. The 8 pm (on all days but Mondays). -MC restaurant is located. To avoid a wait, area was completely demolished during you can purchase a VIP pass or make the Cold War, but after the reunification reservations online. The assorted menu of Germany in 1990, they reconstructed is full of options that are sure to please the vicinity as the middle ground be- TV Tower Panoramastraße 1, Mitte the taste of even the pickiest eaters. tween East and West Berlin. The new S-/U-Bahn Alexanderplatz, S5/S7/S75/S9 Don’t forget to indulge in one of their sleek buildings have become a popular or U2/U5/U8 notorious desserts, such as the black habitat for locals and visitors too. The Adult €11, Children up to 16 €7, 3 and forest cherry cake or the mango passion area is hard to miss; Passing by you will under free fruit tart, each slice priced at a mere notice The Sony Center designed by Open Mar-Oct, Mon-Sun 9am-12am Open Nov-Feb, Mon-Sun 10am-12am €5. For those looking to exercise more Helmut Jahn. This 26 storey structure, The Memorial to the than their taste buds, The TV Tower was covered by a kaleidoscope exhibition Murdered Jews of Europe www.tv-turm.de Behrenstraße built with a side platform visible from area is among the most popular in the Open at all times the inside of the first floor. This platform district as it is surrounded by over 30 Free Admission was built for adrenaline junkies widely restaurants as well as, The Debis Tower, www.stiftung-denkmal.de known as bungee jumpers. Although The The DaimlerChrysler Atrium and The Film With 3.4 million inhabitants and cover- TV Tower itself does not organize bungee Museum. Potsdamer Platz also provides ing an area of 5,370 square kilometres, jumping excursions, it does play an im- shopping at the Arkaden Shopping Mall, The Memorial to the Murdered Jews Berlin is nothing short of expansive. If portant role in the sport, the location. If for those in need of retail therapy. Af- of Europe is one of Berlin’s must-sees. you’re having a hard time perceiving you didn’t love Berlin when you arrived, terwards, you may find yourself wanting In the heart of the city, this memorial this, The TV Tower will help aid this vi- the view from The TV Tower will plant an to catch a movie at The Sony Centre’s, offers a journey through history that you sion. Built in 1965, The TV Tower is not ever-growing love for the city within you, Cinema Complex. The eventful streets, can’t get anywhere else. You may forget only Berlin’s tallest building at 368 me- inspiring you to explore the biggest city traffic and endless points of entertain- what that Döner Kebab tasted like or tres but also the second tallest structure in Germany. -MC ment will keep you enthralled for hours, what kind of beer you liked, but you will in Europe. if not days. Potsdamer Platz is easy to never forget the feeling you had when The somewhat pricey €11 admission find with the relatively new underground you walked through the 2,711 stelae fee and the mid-day queue may be a bit Bahnhof station conveniently centred designed by architect, Peter Eisenman intimidating upon arrival. However, once and easily visible to those visiting. Be and engineer Buro Happold, each one inside with your ticket in hand, you’ll be one of the 100,000 inhabitants that reminding you of the horrible historic given a number with the time that you’ll enter this district on a daily basis and events that took place across Europe. be departing the ground floor to ride the indulge in the modern essence of Pots- Each row is wide enough just for you to elevator 203 metres up damer Platz. -MC

34 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Sights 35 Olympic Stadium to allow the Olympic Stadium to con- Olympischer Platz 3, U-Bahn Olympia-stadion U2 or S- tinue to function as a world class sports Bahn S3/S75 facility. Throughout the work the sta- Mon-Sat 9am-6pm dium continued to function as the home Swimming pool (Summer) 7-20 ground for Berlin’s Hertha BSC football www.olympiastadion-berlin.de team and has done so ever since. With a Admission €7/ Concession €5 capacity of 74, 500 it has also hosted the 2006 football World Cup, international athletics competitions and numerous concerts. Originally constructed for the 1936 You can explore the public areas of the Alexanderplatz Olympic Games, Berlin’s Olympic Sta- stadium and the bell tower with the U-Bahn Alexanderplatz dium has endured an extensive sport- aid of an audio guide for an extra €3 or Inn Berlin and the World Time Clock, which ing and political history. Designed by participate in one of the guided tours in continually rotates showing different time German architects the March brothers English, although these are often limited Originally called Ox Market, Alexanderplatz zones throughout the world. Alex was also under the supervision of the National to once or twice a week. The original was named in honour of a visit from Alexan- home to the largest demonstration in the Socialist party, the stadium is a hugely Olympic swimming pool also sits in the der I the Russian emperor, in 1805. The area history of East Germany, the Peaceful Revolu- dominating structure. shadow of the stadium and is now used became important in the late 19th century tion in 1989. The outer stone façade of the stadium as a public pool during the summer with the construction of the Stadtbahn sta- Since Germany reunified, Alexanderplatz still remains the same as it was in 1936 months which you can access for a mere tion of the same name and a market hall has undergone gradual change with many but the interior has been refurbished €4. -HK opened nearby. This was then followed by of the buildings surrounding the area being the opening of the Hermann Tietz depart- reconstructed. Despite changes to the tram ment store in 1904, making the square a line crossing, it has kept its socialist façade, major commercial centre. The U-Bahn sta- including the graffitied, “Fountain of Friend- tion that is here today was opened in 1913. ship between Peoples” (Brunnen der Völker- Often referred to as, Alex by the locals, in freundschaft), a popular place for people to the 1920’s together with Potsdamer Platz sit and take in the sights. the square was the heart of Berlin’s nightlife. At Alexanderplatz there is the Alexa shopping Because of this, the area was the inspiration mall which houses approximately 180 stores for the 1929 novel Berlin Alexanderplatz by within. Also within the mall is the mammoth Alfred Döblin and two films. Saturn electronic store. Around this area Alexanderplatz has been under redevel- there are a number of food stalls within the opment several times in its history, most U-Bahn station as well as men carrying hot recently during the 1960s when it was boxes of bratwurst for less than €2. There is turned into a major pedestrian zone and was also a beach bar in the square, AlexOase with enlarged as part of the German Democratic Corona beach chairs and a small inflatable Republic’s plans to develop the city centre. pool. Many weekends see the square filled It is surrounded by several iconic structures with tents and booths for various market such as the Fernsehturm (The TV Tower), the stall vendors. There are also many buildings second tallest structure in Europe. of historical note located around Alexan- As The TV Tower is a popular attraction in derplatz. For example, the traditional city Berlin, many mistake the nickname Alex ap- government hall, The Red City Hall (Rotes plies to the tower rather than the area itself. Rathaus) is nearby, which makes Alex a great Alexanderplatz also hosts the Park place to start in the centre of Berlin. -HH

36 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Sights 37 The Alternative Walking Tour Alexander Platz S-/U-Bahn Alexanderplatz S3/S5/ S7/S75 or U2/U5/U8 Free/Tip Based www.alternativeberlin.com

Graffiti, street art, clubs and galleries make up contemporary Berlin. If you’re looking for a tour that offers more than a glance of common staples such as The Brandenburg Gate, then The Alternative Berlin Tour is ideal.The locally-minded, with a curiosity for the cities artistic and creative offerings will be completely satisfied after spending a few hours with one of the immensely clued-up tour guides. The meeting point is at Alexan- derplatz underneath The TV Tower near Starbucks, at 11am and 2pm daily. The three and a half hours spent on this tour will give you an insider’s view into the city. Passing through artists’ squats, hidden markets, abandoned sites and street art beyond belief will leave you curious to see more as the tour goes on. There are several points that will capture your attention; maybe it’ll be after the tour guide points out the number “6” that‘s painted on a wall by a street artist that’s decorated the city with thousands of them. It’s hard to resist the enthralling experi- ence as you try and spot the number “6” countless times as you continue to the next stop. The tour covers everything from the YAAM Beach Bar to the Kun- sthaus Tacheles, an old building in Mitte. Don’t let the smell of urine and beer throw you off, as this place is populated by artists, partiers and those with a keen

ours sense of inquisitiveness. Although the tour is advertised as free, at the end you’re expected to tip your tour guide what you feel the tour was worth. This

T {tours} is an experience that those with undying love for creativity and well kept secrets will find irresistible. -MC

38 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Tours 39 Brewers Tours - Trips with Terry Alternative Tours: 666 Anti Pub Crawl This magnificently grand memo- Meeting point – Bandy Brooks, rial garden is truly breath-taking and The 666 Anti Pubcrawl meets at 9pm Freidrichsraße 96, Mitte every day at Yesterday Bar, S-/U-Bahn Friedrichstraße, its significance is only compounded by Metzer straße 2 S1/S2/S25/S3/S5/S7/S75 or U6 Terry’s explanation of its construction U-Bahn Senefelderplatz U2 Tue, Fri 10:30am and the symbolism which can be found in Cover: €10 covers cost of entrance Adult €12, Concession €10 every corner. into bars and clubs and shots. www.brewersberlintours.com The tour ends over a beer in a small pub in the East of the city where you can tap Terry’s endless supply of thoughts, opin- ions and jokes. What better way to get a taste of the Founding member of Brewers Tours, The relaxed, tour and unconventional fin- alternative scene in Berlin than to join Terry offers his unique and highly ishing point will leave you feeling like you a 666 Anti Pub Crawl. No worries if you entertaining insight into Berlin on bi- have spent the day with an old friend. -HK only have a weekend in the city, this weekly walking tours. At the meeting tour will take you to six different bars Brewer’s Berlin Walking Tours point you are greeted by the intelligent, around Berlin, each with a unique style Corner Georgenstraße and witty charm of a man who has truly and taste. For €10, a guide will meet you Friedrichstraße lived life. He is just as keen to learn S-/U-Bahn Friedrichstraße, at the about you as he is to share his endless S1/S2/S25/S3/S5/S7/S75 or U6 knowledge, which makes for a refresh- trippy acid venue, Yesterday Bar where Mon-Sun at 1pm you and like minded party goers will ingly personal tour. Cost: Pay-what-it’s-worth The tour last approximately six hours revel in conversation and shots before www.brewersberlintours.com moving on to the next destination. The and begins with a basic history of the guides themselves are party people and city before Terry opens the route choice give you plenty of time to take in the up for debate. Go East, West or stay in the centre. His tour of the East takes in sights of each bar and club. The atmos- Don your walking shoes, bring your phere is relaxed and electric, and who the former Soviet quarter and includes sun hat and grab your camera as there a visit to the Russian-German knows where you’ll end up next? Will is little time to waste when joining a Dr Museum in Karlshorst, the site of it be the ping pong orientated bar, Brewer’s Berlin tour. Fun, friendly and Pong? Where you can rent a paddle for German surrender in 1945. With no informative, this tour lasts about 3.5 English translation on the exhibits, €5 and play a game of round robin or hours and is run by a group of friends, Druide Terry’s vast historical knowledge comes will it be the absinthe bar, , where who by their own admission, “are pas- the décor is sporty and the cocktails into its own as he guides you around sionate about Berlin, love history and the museum. Dates, facts, anecdotes are strong? The crawl, organised by can talk for a long time without breath- Alternative Tours and the odd quiz question make for an is something no one ing.” Feel immersed in the city as your should miss, running every night, it is extremely detailed and entertaining tour guide shows you Bebelplatz, where experience. From there you continue a great way to meet new people in the hundreds of students burnt their books city and get a snap shot of Berlin night on to the Soviet War Memorial in Trep- and see if you don’t picture the smoke tower Park. life. Crawls go to fantastically weird rising over Humboldt University. Marvel Last Cathedral, places such as a gothic at some of the remains of the Berlin Wall vampire bar whose clientele are more by the Topography of Terror. Imagine comfortable in dimly lit alcoves adorned the stampede of 100,000 feet coming with skulls than bright fluorescent toward you as the guards put down their disco lights. There is also the choice guns and let the crowds through Check- of transgender or burlesque bars for point Charlie, the famous Cold War link those really wanting to shake things up. between East and West Berlin. Explore Whatever your pleasure, this tour is a the city and its rich history with this tour, hassle free experience that everyone will jam- packed with fun facts and tales enjoy. -HH from Europe’s coolest capital.-HH

40 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Tours 41 food & drink {essen & trinken}

42 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 43 Dolores To continue the sharing theme on to Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 7,Mitte the dessert menu, ask for the postres U-Bahn Alexanderplatz/Rosa-Luxemburg- variados. This platter for two or more Platz U8/U2 combines a little of everything: velvety Mon-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun 12pm-10pm smooth crème caramel, tangy orange flan and subtly spiced poached pears. The atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are in no rush to move you on, so set aside an evening to spend chatting, nib- Dolores brings sunny Californian style Bar-Celona bling tapas treats and sipping superior Mexican munchies to Berlin. Found on Hannoversche Straße 2, Mitte wines. Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße it is instantly U-Bahn Oranienburger Tor, U6 recognisable thanks to its bright red, Mon-Fri 10am-late, Sat-Sun 12pm.-late green and white themed décor. This www.barcelona-berlin.de Satyam place is known for its speed and simplic- Amongst the sights, sounds and Goethestraße 5, Charlottenburg ity. sultry nights out that you are bound to U-Bahn Ernst-Reuter-Platz, U2 The large wall-mounted menu gives you experience in Berlin, it’s easy to over- Daily 11am-12am five easy steps to creating your own Leave Berlin behind for an evening and look the one thing that keeps you going www.mysatyam.de unique dining experience. First choose visit the city’s oldest Spanish restaurant, through it all, the food. Central to every your meal fresh salad, toasted quesadil- serving up authentic, flavoursome dishes great travelling experience is superb la, a burrito bowl or the original favour- to satisfy all appetites. food, of which you’ll find in abundance ite, the burrito, which are all €3.90. Next While there is indoor seating amongst in this multicultural city. From lazy In a city renowned for its meat, finding add your salsa; a choice of six from mild the minimalistic décor and intimate brunches to grab-and-go bites you’ll good quality vegetarian meals can be to habanero makes sure to cater for all lighting, sitting outside on a warm even- never have to eat the same thing twice. tricky, but that’s exactly what you will tastes. If you have opted for a burrito ing allows you to completely immerse Head over to the Nordic Embassies for find at this quiet little Indian eatery. then you need to decide on green or yourself in the Spanish dining experi- some hearty eating at a true insider’s Offerings of delectable, authentic vegan Spanish rice, black beans, pinto beans or ence. The extensive menu boasts tradi- lunch spot, or follow the masses to and vegetarian delights are bound to fajita veggies and cheese or sour cream. tional tortillas from €6, paella starting Tiergarten for a visit to Café am Neuen satisfy even the largest of appetites. Step four, add the protein. Choose from at €11 and various meat and fish dishes See for a paper thin, crispy crust pizza Starting at €4, South Indian specialities tofu, chicken, beef or pork in various between €10 and €20. Some of Spain’s with melted mozzarella and delectable such as rice and semolina pancakes, rice tangy, smoky or spicy marinades which, best wines are available, most from only salami. Do as the locals do and indulge doughnuts and Dosa are available with range in price from €1 to €2. Finally, add €2.50 per glass. in Berlin’s coffee and cake culture: try an exciting variety of fillings. Try the deli- your desired extras including delicious However, what sets Bar-Celona apart a bitter sweet milchkaffee with a piece cious crispy pancake with spicy vegeta- guacamole, pink onions or homemade is the delicious tapas selection. Rang- of traditional chocolate cake or fresh ble-potato filling and coconut chutney. corn chips. ing from €2 to €9 and with a choice of apple strudel for an afternoon treat Otherwise opt for a more traditional If you are feeling indecisive, then order 28 equally tempting taste explosions, that’ll soon turn into an addiction. The main course which range from €4.50 to one of the classic burritos which cost deciding what to order can inspire end- culinary choice is compounded by the €6.50. The Palak Panir is an exquisite mix between €3.90 and €5.90. Wash it less debate. Particularly delectable is extensive street food on offer until the of homemade cheese and deep fresh all down with a refreshing strawberry the chorizo frito - spicy sausage cooked early hours - from huge burgers served green spinach sauce and the Vegetari- lemonade and enjoy the whirlwind that in white wine and served on a mini, out of refurbished public toilets to the scher Spiess, a cheese and mixed vegeta- is Dolores. sizzling-hot pan. Exercise your fingers signature Berliner currywurst. No trip to with the crispy fried chicken wings ble kebab in a rich subtly spiced sauce, is Berlin is complete without a delicious smothered in a house special, the hot another flavoursome highlight. Many of Döner kebab - the smell of slow-roasted sauce. Smokey but spicy, sweet yet sour, the vegetarian dishes can be altered to lamb wafts all over the city tantalising this complex delight will leave your taste suit vegan diners on request and all main your taste buds. Combined with the buds tingling. Order a few vegetable meals are served with a choice of fluffy freshest of salad and a multitude of se- dishes, like the potatoes drizzled with basmati or organic brown rice and salad. cret sauces you’ll be left wondering how creamy garlic sauce or the scrumptious Add a delicately puffed Bathura, a fried you survived ‘pre-Döner.’ -HK alcachofas rebozadas (‘fried artichoke Indian bread, and a steaming chai tea for hearts’), for the perfect tapas feast. a refreshingly memorable meal.

44 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Food and Drink 45

. Felleshus Building Café Nord-Sud The Nordic Embassies Auguststraße 87, Mitte Rauchstraße 1, Tiergarten U-Bahn Friedrichstraße U2/U6/S1/ Bus 100/200 S2/S3/S5/S7/S25/S75 Lunch Mon-Fri 1pm-3pm Santa Maria Monday – Saturday Lunch 12 pm - www.nordicembassies.org Oranienstraße 170, Kreuzburg 3 p.m. Dinner 6 pm - 11 pm. U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1/U8 Mon-Sun 12pm-2am www.lasmarias.de/santa/home.html Green Rice Adalbertstraße 11,Kreuzburg Ubahn Kotbusser Tor U1/U8 Mon-Fri 12pm-late, Sat-Sun 1pm- A unique dining experience is waiting for late The canteen at the Nordic Embassies is Bringing Mexico City to Berlin, Santa Ma you at Café Nord-Sud. Located down a a well hidden treasure. Only open to the ria offers fantastically fresh Mexican quiet street off Friedrichstraße this French public two hours a day, you’ll need to be delights. This compact diner is a popular bistro is one of Berlin’s best kept secrets. fast to take advantage of this simple yet choice, as the menu combines a master For €7.50 indulge in a three course meal exquisite lunch venue. It is located in the class in traditional Mexican dishes with and wine at €3.50 per glass. This family Authentic, delightfully flovoursome and run restaurant may not have the fastest starting at €5,50 a meal,Green Rice is a appropriately named Felleshus, ‘house for a variety of soups and salads to cater for all’ building, which is used as the commu- all tastes. service, but the food is definitely worth the great pit stop if you are looking to refuel. wait, however much you may be salivating. This compact no thrills restaurant, tucked nal area for the Danish, Finish, Icelandic, Start with the chunky homemade gua- Norwegian and Swedish embassies. The camole and tortilla chips or the classic There are three distinct menus to choose away amongst the hustle and bustle of from. Meat lovers will enjoy the first menu Adalbertstraβe, offers a choice of eight stunning architecture of each embassy refried beans, priced at €3 or opt to go building is reflected in the striking design of straight for the irresistibly tempting main consisting of an appetiser of pork paté, a simple but delicious food bowls. You can main of pork steak in a delicious creamy choose from two aromatic soups includ- the Felleshus building. Rich brown maple courses. Handmade tacos, burritos and wood, steel and glistening glass have been quesadillas are available with a selection mushroom sauce and a dessert of mouth ing a fragrant creamy broth with wild watering cheese cake topped with scrump- mushrooms. For something more sub- combined to create a truly eye-catching of mouth-watering fillings ranging from façade. €5-€7. Choose from carnitas, grilled au- tious apple slices. Or for those not wanting stantial try one of the tangy rice dishes to immerse themselves in a meat feast which are beautifully decorated with Nevertheless, it’s what’s inside the bergines with red peppers, barbacoa be Felleshus that’s most exciting. Depending res, rich beef stewed in beer with beans, completely, the second menu comprises of fresh flowers or a fresh noodle salad for a a unique chilli con carne soup as a starter. citrusy sharp refreshing meal. on your time-keeping a queue of varying or chorizo, succulent pork marinated in length will lead you into the small, sleek Mexican chilli, ginger, garlic and peppers. This is followed by cous cous and brat- The portions are satisfyingly generous wurst with assorted steamed vegetables. and depending on your selection of the canteen. As the service is quick, you won’t If you’re looking for something different, have to wait long to reach the stainless then take a look at the house speci- Finally, the luscious cheesecake finishes off rich marianated chicken, beef or tofu is the meal. For those who are vegetarian, a combined with crisp, fresh vegetables steel hot plate. The kitchen offers three hot alities. They start at €5 and include a dishes every day, which always include a quirky pot of melted cheese with chorizo complete meat free option is also available nuts and a zingy traditional sauce. This upon request. The portions aren’t super half take-away, half restaurant, perhaps vegetarian and fish option. All of the meals pork served with soft corn tortillas. are served in generous portions and you The rough-round-the-edges décor and sized, but the flavours are. The creamy, lacks in atmosphere but makes up for wine mushroom sauce that is doused over with its tingling flavour combinations. can choose from a selection of homely wax covered wine bottles-cum-candle treats, such as salmon schnitzel with holders add a rustic twist which compli- the melt-in-your-mouth pork steak is to die The menu is only in German but a simple for. Luckily, bread for the table is provided, number guide allows for easy ordering at creamy potato and carrot mash and wild ments the earthy food perfectly. The bar mushroom sauce, tender chicken skewers is extensive and with €1 taco and tequila so you can soak up all the delicious sauce. the counter which backs straight into the The sausages with the cous cous come with busy kitchen. Your meals are prepared with rice and curry sauce or griddled tofu Tuesdays from 4pm and margarita happy with potato dauphinoise. Prices are set at hour daily from 8pm-10pm, Santa Maria a kick. Unique spices and herbs are infused fresh and shouted up about ten minutes with the meat, and accompanied by the later. Not a place for a long and leisurely €5 for meat dishes, €5.20 for fish and €4 provides an excellent environment to for the vegetarian option. Add an authentic soak up the festival feeling with friends. steamed vegetables, send your taste buds meal, but an excellent spot to grab some insane. Although the wait between courses good quality, healthy fast food. Swedish cider for a meal that is deliciously comforting. can seem quite long, the ambience is infec- tious. -HH

46 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Food and Drink 47 Café am Neuen See Spätzle Express There is also the ‘Farmers Breakfast’ You’d be forgiven if you didn’t notice Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten Weiner Straße 14a, Kreuzberg Open daily from 12pm to 10pm consisting of fried potatoes, eggs, bacon that this bistro doesn’t play any music, S-/U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten, and gherkins on offer. Service is fast, so the soundtrack being the chatter of the S3/S5/S7/S75 or U2/U9 U-Bahn Görlitzer bahnhof U1 www.spaetzleexpress.de you can grab a seat on one of the long customers and the clinking of cutlery on Mon-Sun 9am-12am German beer tables outside, shortly www.cafeamneuensee.de finished plates. Not overtly designed or before tucking into this filling noodle styled in any way, Café Nord-Sud could meal. Make sure to order drinks, since be mistaken for being just an ordinary, the noodles are boiled in plenty of salt nothing special restaurant. However, In this small restaurant nestled down water. However this doesn’t detract here customers are turned away at the While walking through Berlin’s beautiful Weiner Straße, you can find delicious from the sensational yet simple flavours door as this popular eatery is known by Tiergarten your nose will lead you right hand made Swabian noodle dishes, lov- this little food haven has to offer. -HH the locals of the area as a must if you to Café am Neuen See, where a cold ingly prepared. The name Swabia refers want good food for a reasonable price. pint of Hefeweisen, fresh Leberkäse (a to an old region in Germany. The menu Arriving here at 5 p.m. insures that you meatloaf containing corn beef, pork and is made up of Späztle noodles which Maroush will get a table and give you plenty of onions) and a side of potato salad are are made with späztle dough boiled in Adalbertstraße 93, Kreuzberg time to soak up the atmosphere of the waiting on your arrival. The café offers salt water where it forms into noodle- U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1 place. a luxurious outdoor setting, as picnic like shapes. When this is complete the Mon-Sun 11 am-2 am www.maroush-berlin.de tables rest in the shade of surrounding noodles are then fried. Another variation trees next to the calm lake. Not only are the Schupfnudeln, this is when the does this café entertain you with oc- noodles are made with potato and are as casional live music, but you can also take thick as a finger, which are then fried in a charming trip across the relaxing lake a pan. These fat caterpillar-like delights Situated in a vibrant Turkish quarter, this on a row boat. Be prepared to spend are then covered in delicious sauces or relaxed restaurant serves up Lebanese roughly around €10 euro for an outing smothered in melted cheese and fried dishes to cater for both the eat-in and to this enchanting cafe; as you’re paying onions. From the creamy mushroom take-out crowds, no doubt attracted by not only for the food but the ambiance sauce with delicate chunks of sliced the inviting scents of various spices. Low too. This quaint café is sure to provide mushrooms, to the spinach späztle dish, prices and generous servings certainly go you with nature’s beauty and a delicious where the noodles take on a lovely green some way towards explaining the brisk meal to complement. -MC tinge, there is something for everyones trade, although their €2.5 Shich Tawuk, taste buds. with marinated chicken and mixed salad in The dishes come in varying sizes: small, a toasted flatbread, seems to account for medium and large. Prices range from a large part of their popularity. Vegetar- €3.30 for small dishes, medium dishes ian options, such as the €2.5 falafel or at €4.30 and finally large dishes at €5.80 haloumi and salad toasted wraps, are also to €6.20 depending on what späztle is available. Given the fresh ingredients and ordered. As well as offering delicious exotic décor, complete with intricately de- Swabian noodles, the restaurant offers tailed light fixtures and tile mosaics on the mouth-watering leberkäse, a traditional walls, you could be mistaken for thinking meat loaf, served with fried potatoes and you’ve travelled to Beirut. On a warm day fried egg. -HH you might be hard pressed to get a seat outdoors on the sturdy wooden benches, but at least the selection of drinks, includ- ing freshly squeezed orange juice for €2, will quench your thirst. Whether looking for a late night snack, or fuel for an after- noon adventure, this establishment will not disappoint. -CWW

48 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Food and Drink 49 The floral accents are an endearing touch and you can easily lose yourself in the romance of it all.

Café Einstein Stammhaus Kurfϋrstenstraße 58, Tiergarten U-Bahn Nollendorfplatz, U1/U2/U3/U4 Anna Blume Mon-Sun 8am-2am Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg www.cafeeinstein.com U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße, U2 Mon-Sun 8am-2am www.cafe-anna-blume.de ake If you’re searching for somewhere to relax, The utterly charming Anna Blume café- sip coffee and savour some devilishly tempt- cum-flower shop rests in one of the ing desserts, then the Café Einstein Stam- city’s hippest neighbourhoods. The café mhaus is for you. Although it’s now part of combines the best floral and culinary the Café Einstein chain, this café is where it skills to produce a uniquely sensual all began. This charmingly old-fashioned cof- atmosphere. Opened in 2005, the rich fee house provides the perfect retreat from interior décor of chandeliers, blood red the fast-paced Berlin streets. leather, golden crests and vintage an- Walking through the doorway feels like uchen} tique furniture create a romantic sense you’re stepping back in time: the parquet of mystique. flooring, round enamel inlaid coffee tables Anna Blume serves food all day, starting and soft worn leather benches prove its with breakfast. You can choose from enduring popularity. Coffees are a little more croissants, eggs prepared in all ways expensive than average, ranging from €2-€5, and deliciously tempting crepes. There but the quality is evident. Take time to pe- are light meals available throughout the ruse the glass cake showcase which flaunts day and from 5pm you can peruse the delectable cheesecakes, tortes and deep- evening menu’s simple meals, such as filled pies or discover the delight of the ap- pork with white wine and mushrooms. ple strudel with vanilla sauce. The portions Nevertheless, it is the cakes and coffee are huge, so share a slice with a friend or that make a visit to this café a true savour it all yourself - either way your sugar indulgence. The appetising display of cravings will be instantly satisfied. desserts flaunts an irresistible spread of If you’re looking for something a little more tortes, gateaux and cheesecakes start- substantial the lunch and dinner menu ing at €2.60. Combine anything from a is available until 11pm and offers lobster simple New York cheesecake to extrava- bisque, schnitzel and plum dumpling. How- gantly layered fruit and cream sponges ever, as prices for main meals range from with a rich, bitter sweet coffee for the €14 to €21, dining here is definitely best perfect afternoon treat. kept for when you’re feeling self-indulgent. A short wait for a table is to be ex- Whatever your mood upon entry, curling up pected at peak times such as Sunday in a corner with a coffee and a good book or afternoons, but the staff are extremely soaking up the sun in the beautiful garden helpful. They will even talk you through will let the stress fade away. each mouth-watering option. affee & K { K affee c offee & 50 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Coffee and Cake 51 Godshot Coffee Klub Fassbender & Rausch Immanuelkirchstraße 32, Charlottenstraße 60, Mitte Prenzlauer Berg U-Bahn Stadtmitte, U2/U6 U-Bahn Senefelderplatz, U2, or the M2 Shop Mon-Sat 10am-8am, Sun from Alexanderplatz to Knaackstraße 11am-8am Mon-Fri 8 am-6 pm, Sat 10 am-6 pm, Café Mon-Sun 10am-8pm Sun 1pm-6pm www.fassbander-rausch.com www.godshot.de

No Fire, No Glory Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg U-Bahn Senefelderplatz, U2 For the chocoholics out there, a visit to Tue-Sun 10am-10pm If you’ve been looking high and low for Fassbender & Rausch should be top pri- www.nofirenoglory.de excellent coffee,Godshot has you cov- ority. This legendary chain’s main branch ered. Caffeine-seekers can choose one of features a feast of chocolaty delights. three blends: the stronger, the more bitter High ceilings, frosted glass and royal Maranesi, or the lighter, creamier Phoenix crest-covered walls give an indication of or Backyard. Although Maranesi appears the tradition and grandeur linked to the Under the shade of trees outside, deck chairs the cheapest, only a single espresso shot brand. As a supplier to the Royal Court and padded seats spread out on the foot- is used compared to a double for the Tip: When tipping in cafes or restaurants of Prussia and founded in 1863, they path hint at the relaxed atmosphere of this other two. They also offer a variety of it is customary to round your bill up to have established themselves as Berlin’s hip café. Inside fresh flowers in small glass styles, from the usual black espresso or the nearest €1. Don’t leave your tip on finest chocolatiers. bottles at each table and a cash register from caffé latte to the more obscure flat white the table instead hand it to your waitress Every inch of the shop floor is filled with the early 20th century, hand-crank included, (steamed milk over a shot of espresso). or include it when paying. chocolate creations, from simple bars to contribute to the old-world feel. If it’s not The baristas take their work very seri- novelty moulds. The extensive skill of already taken, curl up on the black leather ously, evidenced by their earthy and these chocolate artisans is displayed in couch or alternatively grab a seat at one full-flavoured results, with less foam than the impressive scale replicas of famous of the quaint, white-washed square tables elsewhere. With prices between €1.5 Berlin landmarks, like the Reichstag. before you order one of the excellent coffee and €3, you really can’t go wrong. On the However, the most tempting display is options. off-chance that coffee isn’t your thing, the Pralinentheke, a large glass display In the hands of the skilful baristas, the you can also choose from an assortment filled with numerous truffles, pralines roasted Arabica beans don’t hide their bitter, of fruit juices and teas. If you’re peckish, and sweets, allowing you to hand-pick rich flavour. At €1.5 for an espresso and €3.2 delectable cakes and pastries are avail- your own selection. for a flat white, it’s a wonder there are still able, such as the crispy, piquant apricot Take the lift to the first floor, where you free seats throughout the week. For only croissant for €1.8. After ordering, laze in can enjoy a truly decadent experience €1.2 it’s hard to pass up dessert options like one of the padded chairs outside, or curl in the inviting café. The velvety, smooth homemade chocolate brownies and large up on one of the comfy couches inside. hot chocolate is a must. You can choose cookies, but if you’re after something more Soft electro music, coupled with the sleek, from three types: 43, 70 or 80 per cent substantial, freshly prepared bagels with a vintage-inspired décor, produces a relaxed cocoa and then combine your choice variety of fillings are available for under €4.5. atmosphere. Seating easily accommodates with milk, cream or espresso. You can If, between sipping coffee and munching on groups, but is also suitable for a more decide to balance your indulgence with snacks, you have to hop on the ‘net, just ask intimate rendezvous. Wifi access costs €1 a tangy, fruity mousse or go all out and the affable, international staff for the Wifi per hour. -CWW try one of the chocolate-inspired des- password. Given the inviting sum of these serts. Whatever your choice, you will parts, you should head over before the week- leave with your cravings satisfied. end crowd catches on. -CWW

52 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Coffee and Cake 53 At random intervals during the month, the café becomes a stage for poetry readings The sweet, iced-tea is instantly refresh- (in English andGerman), local acoustic ing, served in an ice-filled glass with outfits and black and white films (check fresh fruit bobbing on top. When faced Hilde Café + Bar the website for dates). Even when Berlin’s with the glittering glass counter dis- Mezter Straße 22, Prenzlauer Berg sun is performing a disappearing act, Café playing the daily selection of delicious U-Bahn Senfelderplatz, U2 Hilde will put a warm glow in your belly and cupcakes, the hardest part is deciding Mon-Fri 9am, 12pm, always leave you coming back for more. on just one. The café offers ten types Sat-Sun 9.30am-12pm -EC of cupcakes for €2.50 each, from sugar www.hilde-berlin.com and spice to cookies and cream, all of which are topped with various flavours and colours of rich buttercream icing. Temptingly rich cheesecakes and multi- Bonanza Coffee Heroes ple vegan options are also on offer. Oderberger Straße 36, Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße, U2 Stepping off of the pavement and The staff are friendly and knowledge- Mon-Fri 8:30 am-7 pm, entering the coffee-scented sanctuary able and the fresh, vibrant décor makes Sat-Sun 10 am-7 pm Cupcake that is Cafe Hilde, you will for an upbeat atmosphere. www.bonanzacoffee.de discover a world of sweet and simple is an ideal spot to indulge in a sugary, pleasures. Fresh garden picked daisies sweet treat and while the day away. in re-used glass water bottles brighten 1950s laminex tables. Mismatched vintage loungers and chairs provide a comfy perch for those If you’re in need of a natural stimulant, this wanting a break from the streets of rustic café serves up some of the city’s best Berlin. coffee. After navigating the chatter of a Ordering a chai latte or hand crafted hip, young crowd seated on white, wooden cupcake from a friendly face and benches outside, the aroma of roasted beans indulging this gorgeous Berliner lures you inside. Soft folk music, gritty con- gem could be a dangerous option if you crete walls, bare but for daubs of off-white ever want to re-enter the real world paint, and timber-panelled flooring conjure again. A free book exchange adorns the Cupcake up an arty atmosphere. As burlap bags of windowsills and numerous backgam- Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain beans and heavy-duty roasters and grinders mon and connect four boards entice U-Bahn Frankfurter Tor, U5 occupy the majority of the already intimate the nerd within. Café Hilde takes the Mon-Tues 1pm-7pm, Wed-Sun 12pm-7pm interior, the benches outside are your best best parts of life and puts them in four www.cupcakeberlin.de bet for a seat. Despite a rusted horseshoe walls for you to enjoy every day of the hanging above the door, good luck is not week. needed for a great cup of java. The baristas Popping in for breakfast, you can fashion rich, velvety coffee, and you can expect to pay around €4 for eggs with expect some latte art in your foam. Whether toast and jam. Triple-decker gourmet an espresso, cappuccino or flat white, all sandwiches, nachos and delicious soups Strolling along the wide, leafy street, Cup- single-shot options are under €3, which is a of the day are a few of the meals that cake’s bright hot-pink and white awning magical price-quality point. For those in need make up the lunch anddinner menu. above the treat-filled shop front grabs your of both caffeine and cooling-off, most iced Home-made cakes, organic teas, chai attention. As the name suggests, this Ameri- coffee options are over €3. At €2.9, a rich lattes and fair trade coffees from €1.70 can style café specialises in cupcakes, but it chocolate brownie or a slice of suitably tart make for a luscious morning or after- has a lot more to offer. New York cheesecake proves an excellent noon tea. The extensive menu boasts a large selection coffee complement. The especially avid can of drinks, cakes and comfort food including also purchase 250g bags of home-roasted toasted sandwiches and baked beans on Bonanza blend for €7.20. -CWW toast.

54 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Coffee and Cake 55 Turkish Treats With over 250,000 people of Turkish eth- nicity living in Berlin, it’s not surprising that Street food is central to the everyday their food has been integrated into the Food lives of Berliners. There are a multitude culinary culture. When it comes to street of options if you’re looking for a quick, food you can’t go wrong with a kebab, instantly satisfying bite on the go and slowly spit -roasted lamb or chicken with the value for money is astounding. salad and sauce. Although traditionally Here is your simple guide to the best Turkish, kebabs have been adapted to suit street food options in Berlin. German tastes and some will even claim that they were invented in Berlin. Never- theless, you can sample this deliciously flavoursome treat in a variety of ways: the traditional Döner in Brot, Döner meat with salad in thick toasted bread, Döner Dϋrum kebab meat and salad in a light, thin wrap Imbiss (Snack bars) or mit Pommes, with fries. Quick, easy and simply addictive, it’s evident why kebabs All over Berlin you will find small Imbiss have become a favourite with Berliners. stops that serve up a variety of light meals including Bratwurst, traditional German sausage with bread, Sauer- kraut or potato salad and Pommes, fries served with ketchup and mayon- naise. However, they are probably most famous for currywurst. You can’t visit Berlin without sampling the original pit- stop snack. An unusual concoction of sliced sausage, tomato sauce and curry powder, the story goes that Herta Heu- wer invented it in 1949 after she got the ingredients from British soldiers. Served with chips or bread, this simple dish has been a popular snack with Ber- liners ever since. Although you can find currywurst all over the city, some of the best places are below.

Curry 36 Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg Hasir Kreuzberg U-Bahn Mehringdamm, U6/U7 Adalbertstraße 10, Kreuzberg Mon-Fri 9am-4am, Sat 10am-4am, Sun U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1/U8 11am-3am Mon-Sun 12pm-11pm Prices from €2 Kebabs from €3 www.curry36.de www.hasir.de Konnopke’s Imbiss Safir Schönhauser Alle 44B, Prenzlauer Berg Adalbertstraße 9, Kreuzberg U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße, U2 U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1/U8 Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 12pm-8pm Sun-Thurs 8-24, Fri-Sat 8-2 Prices from €1.70 Kebabs from €2.50 www.konnopke-imbiss.de www.safir-restaurant.de street food {street food}

56 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Streetfood 57 Burgermeister Oberbaumstraße 8, Kreuzberg Mustafa’s Gemϋse Kebab U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor, U2 Meringdamm 32, Kreuzberg Mon-Thu 11am-2am, U-Bahn Mehringdamm, U6/U7 Fri-Sat 11am-4am, Sun 3pm-2am Mon-Fri 8am-11pm www.burger-meister.de Although the burgers are the main attrac- Kebabs from €2.50 tion, the sides aren’t to be disregarded. www.mustafas.de Either add the simple and delicious cheese Burger Bars fries for the perfect combo or choose the Walking down Oberbaumstraße, let subtly spiced, chili cheese fries as a meal in Mustafa’s tiny kebab stand is constantly A fast food favourite, there is no shortage your nose lead you to one of Berlin’s themselves. Limited seats are available and surrounded by a stream of hungry of burger bars in Berlin. Whether you’re worst kept secrets. Sitting in the middle a half-hour wait is average, but with prices Burger- customers, a sure sign of something after a simple cheeseburger and chips of a busy traffic junction, Burgermeister topping at €3.70 for a Meistaburger, meister special. A family run business, this or are feeling a bit more adventurous, is a welcome haven for fast-food lovers. embodies the concept of value for street-side shack prides itself on fresh, there’s a place to suit everyone. Most Situated directly under the U-Bahn money. flavoursome ingredients. The menu of Berlin’s burger joints serve up huge, line, it housed in refurbished public couldn’t be simpler: Hϋnchen mit mouth-watering burgers that could be toilets. This tiny burger bar allows you gemϋse, spit-roasted chicken and grid- considered a meal in themselves - great to escape the hectic surroundings and dles vegetables in bread, the original if you want a tasty, simple and filling indulge in some of the best burgers that Gemϋse Kebap, a mixture of griddled meal. Among the more unusual offerings Berlin has to offer. The ornate counter vegetables including potatoes, auber- are burgers atop a mound of sauerkraut, and soft jazz music in the background, gine and sweet red onion in toasted enormous American-style patties with coupled with the diversity of custom- bread, or a Döner Dϋrum, either of the bacon and egg and even tantalising tofu ers, makes for an eclectic and unique above fillings all wrapped up in a flour burgers. atmosphere. tortilla. The menu is simple, offering a choice While the succulent marinated meat The Bird of six burgers, varying from the usual and perfectly seasoned vegetables Am Falkplatz 5, Prenzlauer Berg hamburger to Burgermeister’s master- are delicious, it’s the salad and sauces U-Bahn Schönhauser Alle, U2 piece, the Meistaburger. The burgers Mon-Thurs 18-23, Fri 5pm-12am, Sat surpass the expectations suggested by that really make Mustafa’s stand out 12pm-12am, Sun 12pm-11pm from the crowd. Three different secret the setting, with tender, 100 per-cent Burgers from €9.50 beef patties perfectly complemented sauces combine for a sweet, tangy, www.thebirdberlin.com spicy sensation, while the addition of by crunchy green salad, red onion and mint and coriander to the usual salad Ketchup and Mayo fresh tomato. If you’re feeling more suspects really gets your taste buds Oranienstraße 37, Kreuzburg adventurous, try the barbeque bacon tingling. If you’re willing to wait an av- U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1/U8 burger, which is smothered with tangy erage of half an hour in the queue then Mon-Sun 12pm-12am barbeque sauce, or a tofu burger for a Mustafa’s will reward you with a truly Burgers from €2.70 great vegetarian alternative. unique kebab experience. www.ketchup-majo.de

58 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Streetfood 59 nightlife { nachtliebe}

60 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 61 Sisyphous Weekend Club Bahamas Cocktail Bar Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte Hauptstraße 15, Rummelsberg Pappelallee 11, Prenzlauer berg Every 30 minutes a shuttle bus picks up U-Bahn Alexanderplatz U2/U5/U8/ U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße U2 S3/S5/S7/S9/S75 and drops off from S-Bahn Ostkreuz, Mon-Sun 9pm – till late S3/S5/S7/S75 Thur/Fri/Sat 11pm till late; S-Bahn Ostkreuz or Rummelsberg to- roof terrace is open from 7pm Some of the most alternative wards Gustav Holzmannstraße Cover €10-€15 www.week-end-berlin.de and unique party scenes in Europe Friday after 11pm – Monday morning are reflected in Berlin’s nightlife with its Cover €5-€10 (allows entry all weekend) Transport yourself to the exotic wild, sexy but poor attitude. All through www.sisyphous-berlin.net Bahamas. With golden sand com- the 1990s young people from all over pletely covering the floor, a wicker When it comes to Weekend Club, think Europe flocked to Berlin’s night scene, and bamboo bar, and just over 200 Sex In The City, cocktails and an amazing and after the Berlin Wall came down different types of cocktails, Bahamas Out in deepest, darkest corner of view minus the swanky fashion. Up on in 1989, many historic buildings in the Cocktail Bar is definitely a tropical eastern Berlin, and overshadowed by the 12th and 15th floor of an old GDR former city centre of East Berlin were paradise within Berlin. Nestled down an abandoned pre-war factory, stands era office building, Weekend definitely illegally occupied by squatters making it Prenzlauer Berg’s Pappelallee, here Sisyphous. Just opposite the Spree, provides plenty of wow factors. This the perfect party playground for coun- cheerful and helpful staff are willing this circus for the senses is a beer discreet club is located opposite the terculture raves. Mitte and the sur- to help you look through the large garden-cum-night club. A huge sandy Park Inn hotel in Alexanderplatz, the rounding boroughs were also home to menu until you find your perfect tip- outdoor space houses disco balls and bouncers outside being the only clue many famous night clubs such as Tresor ple. Though the atmosphere is a lit- circus themed chandeliers seemingly where the party is. A cloak room is on and Sage Club. Because clubs are not tle shy of a full blown luau, revellers hanging in mid-air, as well as bean bag the ground floor before the lifts, but if required to close at a fixed time on the will still enjoy the large surf board style seating up a slight bank. There it’s a breezy night, jackets may be handy weekends, Berlin is noted for its parties hung on the wall opposite the bar are more places to park yourself on the for the lofty roof terrace on the 15th lasting well into the morning or in the as if riding the murals azure waves. deck in the middle of a quaint pond. floor. A short elevator ride up the build- case of Club der Visionäre, all weekend. Prices range from €4.00 to €8.00 and During the day the outdoor area is in- ing and you’ve arrived. The inky black Berghain, one of Berlin’s more infamous the bar is open till the tide goes out. habited by chickens and dogs, as well as dance floor pounding minimal house clubs, houses the Panorama Bar, aptly With the delicious, mouth-watering children brought by their party-hungry and electro is crowded with eager named as the bar opens its shades just ‘Watermelon Man’ cocktail, Baha- parents. Weather permitting; it can get dancers. There are comfy seats running as day breaks, allowing revellers to shade mas Cocktail Bar is definitely worth quite packed with punters wishing to parallel to the dance floor and a bar their faces from the glaring sun. It also sand in your shoes, even for the soak up the summer sun before head- offering shots for the usual €2 or mixers offers a stunning view of Berlin in the most inexperienced traveller. ing into one of the three dance floors for €4.50. If the hundreds of flashing aftermath of dancing and drinking all encased within the factory at night. lights above the dance floor become too through the night. SO36, named after Here DJs spin minimal techno and much, look for the door to the staircase the old postcode area of Kreuzberg, used techno-jazz, whilst bubble and smoke leading up to the roof terrace. Up two to focus mainly on punk, ska and rock machines cover the boisterous dancers. flights, and with impressive views of music. Today it is a popular venue within As soon as the sun finally sets the lights Alexanderplatz, this area has another the area for cheesy pop and rock music, outside glisten in the moonlight and bar running the length of the roof. and hosts a monthly roller disco. Sisyphous seems to come alive with Outdoor seating and small tables are In the 1920s the city was referred to Berlin’s night owls. When the dance available here, so you can sit down and as the ‘Gay Capital of Europe’ by some floors become too hot, there is sweet, take in the sights. It is especially good authors. Today the long history of gay refreshing respite outside, with seating if it’s a clear night, it’s best to arrive at culture and influence is ever present in aplenty. There’s also a small booth of- midnight to avoid queues and crowding Berlin’s nightlife. Many clubs have a huge fering slices of pizza to hungry patrons on the terrace. gay following, making for colourful nights in need of energy. Sisyphous tends get out on the town. Many clubs have ‘Dark busy on the weekend, with an increase Rooms’, which although may to some of people arriving between 4am – 6am. be a photographical term, it’s not in this city. ‘Dark Rooms’ here offer a ‘No sight, no tell’ policy, where anything goes. -HH

62 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Nightlife 63 Absinth Depot Prices range from from the basic ‘Rosa Sil- Weinmeisterstraße 4, Mitte ver’ fontäne for €50, to the more elaborate 2Be Club U-Bahn Weinmeisterstraße U8 and antique style, ‘Lady’ fontäne at €120. Klosterstraße 44, Mitte Mon-Fri 2 pm - 12 pm Be sure to ask the knowledgable staff about U-Bahn Klosterstraße U2 Saturday 1 pm - 12 am what they have to offer as they are more Thurs– Sat 9pm – till late www.erstesabsinthdepotberlin.de than willing to help. If absinth isn’t your Cover: Thurs/Fri/Sat €10 or free scene, then come for the ambience created for ladies before midnight www.2be-club.de by the soft french lounge music and chatter. Step back into an 18th Century French Absinth might not be to everyones taste and saloon with Absinth Depot. Although there are other bottles on offer in Absinth the name conjures up images of large Depot, such as Franconian wine and special Get your swagger on in one of the very warehouses full of crates of absinth, label tequilas and gins, as well as unique few true hip hop clubs in Berlin. 2Be of- this is far from the case. With 150 to bottles of rum. Roses fers unadulterated reggae, hip hop and 170 varieties of absinth from all over Oranienstraße 187, Kreuzberg rap across two dance floors. The first France and Switzerland, Absinth Depot U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor, U1/U8 room hosts reggae and old school hip is definitely where you need to go to Magnet Club Mon-Sun 10pm till Late hop in a more mellow setting which is find the green fairy. Falckensteinstraße 47, Berlin complemented by white leather chairs Old floral metallic wallpaper and aged U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor U1 lining the walls by the large bar. The sec- absinth posters decorate the walls as Tues-Sat 12am till late ond room, with its white washed walls well as ornate baroque style mirrors. A Cover €3 –€8 www.magnet-club.de and large DJ booth, houses main stream high ceiling provides a lofty feel to the rap and hip hop. Expect baggy pants, place, with large bulbous vintage lights With its hot pink, fluffy floor to ceiling backward caps and plenty of bling as the hanging from the ceiling. A large floor walls, glittering disco ball and colourful crowd here is almost always strictly from to ceiling shelving cabinet houses the This trendy club in East Berlin is known for yet mellow occupants, Roses is a small the hood. 2Be also has a terrace which majority of the absinth the bar has to housing live performances by indie pop fuchsia haven in Kreuzberg. The walls features umbrella-covered tables, a offer. bands. On Thursdays the venue transforms are indeed hairy, as though someone small swimming pool, as well as another Staff are willing to help you choose by into hipster heaven. There are comfort- skinned a giant muppet and carpeted DJ who can be found spinning reggae letting you taste the strong liquorish able sofas and chairs dotted along the walls the walls with its hide. As the small bar and lounge hip hop but only during the drinks before deciding your perfect tip- around the dance floor, and out by the is directly opposite the entrance, you summer months. ple. Here you can purchase by the bot- smoking room, so you can always find a won’t have to go far for a reasonably tle or by the glass, depending on what chair to rest your weary dancing feet. The priced tipple (€3.50 for beer). Adja- tickles your fancy. A glass of absinth is music ranges from indie electro bands to cent to it are several steps to the cosy usually between €4.50 to €5.50, with more minimal techno. Amateur graffiti has yet pumping dance floor. The DJ spins shots being €2.50. Bottles of absinth been scrawled on to the walls by the bar cheesy pop and techno for party animals are priced between €25 to €60. likening it to the walls of a toilet cubicle. dancing under a glistening glitter ball Watch as the fontäne spouts water Here the prices are reasonable, with beer hanging amid the magenta hair. Chan- into the absinth to help dilute it. The costing €3.50 and shots being €2.50. The deliers hang over a wall plastered with saying here is, the paler the absinth clientele can be quite young, ranging from huge, iconic pictures of Marilyn Monroe. the better! Although there is a plethora eighteen to early twenties, but this doesn’t Each one has its own pink furry quirk of emerald green bottles on offer, and mean the atmosphere is immature. Scruffy - one has pink furry eyebrows, while even absinth with a touch of cannabis and dingy, Magnet is an easy going clubbing another features a pink moustache. To for those really wishing to mellow out. experience. get to the ‘snug’ bathrooms, you must Seating is limited here, with two tables, go through swing doors adorned with one with bar stools, however if the fairy lights. Although predominately a weather is nice, small tables and chairs gay bar, Roses is frequented by all sorts outside are available. For those wishing and the small, chair-lined dance floor is to take the experience home with them always packed, so any free space to bust and become true absinth connoisseurs, a move is relished. strainers and fontänes are available.

64 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Nightlife 65 Cookies Friedrichstrasse 158, Mitte U-Bahn Französische Straße S1/S2/ S25/U55 Tuesday and Thursday midnight till late Cover: €10 www.cookies.ch

Strandgut Mühlenstraße 61, Freidrichshain Cookies is an unmarked club in an old Everyday 10am To 3am Sage Club GDR-era cinema in the Westin Grand Cake No cover charge Köpenicker straße 76, Kruezberg Hotel. In the large main room a DJ Orainenstraße 32, Kreuzberg U-Bahn Warschauer Straße U1/S3/ U-Bahn Heinrich-Heine Straße U8 blasts minimal house and techno, while U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor U1/U8 S5/S7/S75 Cover €8-€12 free before 10pm the dance floor is crammed with party Daily from 8pm till late www.strandgut-berlin.com Thursdays only hungry revellers. The large island like Happy Hour 8pm-10pm www.cakeclub.de www.sage-club.de bar is set by the dance floor and is sur- rounded by a sea of people. Here party goers can find mixed drinks for €6.50, This havana heaven in bustling Ber- Rock your socks off at Sage Club. Opened cocktails between €7 to €10 and beer Not a bar and not a club, Cake can best be lin boasts a capacity for up to 2,000 in 1990 illegally, and then finally finding a for €3.50. Although on the pricey side, described as a dance hall. With its diverse people, 600 deck chairs and palm trees permanent home in 1997, Sage Club has refreshments are needed as the dance musical taste, everyone is catered for. Cheap covering the entire site. So you’d be for- for the last twelve years, been rocking out floor is usually packed. Lavish leather beer and cocktails keep the punters com- given if you thought you’d stepped into every Thursday night. The club spans three seating is available to soak up the sights ing and with seating outside to sit and relax a Club Med. Berlin’s largest beach bar floors each blasting rock and roll, hard rock of the dancers, and if it’s still too hot, before heading inside for more dancing, Cake Strandgut, is an impressive sight, and and metal until the small hours. With the there are sofas available outside by certainly knows how to appeal to the masses. it isn’t too harsh on your wallet either. self-professed motto: “Who the f*ck needs the cloak room. To use the coat check The décor is eclectic, an Elvis Presley pic- A beer is the standard €3.50 and shots Friday?” Sage Club is trying to counteract a nominal fee of €1.50 is required. A ture sits on the front window sill, and the at €2, whereas mixers can be on the the commercialisation of weekends in small room just off of the main dance vibrantly coloured brick work deceptively pricey side at €7.00. This sandy oasis Berlin, dominated by more touristy clubs. floor spins hip hop all night. This room resembles a cake shop. Inside the theme of next to the river Spree is a haven for Don’t be put off, not everyone that enters is usually bursting with everyone shak- a blind, flamboyant painter is continued as sun worshippers. Wooden broad walks this venue has a stegosaurus hair cut or is ing their ‘groove thangs’. The bar here large murals of colour are seemingly slapped line the outside of the club, and allow pierced to an inch of their life. Even a rock is quite small, reflecting the compact onto the walls. Staff are friendly, if not a lit- those wanting to avoid sand in their and roll virgin would recognise the voices of nature of the space itself. Don’t be tle preoccupied with practising their dance shoes to do so. A small swimming pool Mick Jagger and Bon Jovi pumping through alarmed if you find yourself bump-n- moves from behind the bar, so getting their is located in the middle of the area, the sound systems and those who consider grinding with strangers! The mood is attention might require a dance off. where those wanting to cool off their themselves rock and roll gods and god- light and everyone just wants to dance, Cake club is definitely worth a visit if you feet can lounge in the many deck chairs desses will not be disappointed either. The dance, dance. want to place yourself in surroundings akin pool side. If the weather is uncoopera- drinks are cheap, with a standard beer at to a dark smoke filled box with cheap booze tive, there is a large sofa area covered €2.50 and the atmosphere priceless. Join in and a DJ that has every single song ever with canvas to protect hairstyles from on the borderline mosh pit; just be careful Tip: Bouncers here can be a bit touchy known to man on his iPod. Definitely a post the impending rain. Just a short walk you don’t fall into the swimming pool in about letting large groups in, especially clubbing venue, this place is certainly a piece along the East Side Gallery, Strandgut the outdoor area of the club. When it’s not when the ratio of guys to girls is out of of cake. is very relaxed and the minimal electro filled with head bangers,Sage Club is balance. Be smiley and break up the music reflects this attitude. At night fire transformed on the weekends into Kit Kat group before you enter if you have to. pits are lit, and fairy lights can be seen Club, one of Berlin’s most notorious sex strung between palm trees. clubs.

66 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Nightlife 67 SO36 Republik Frank und Frei Köpenicker Straße 74, Mitte Club der Visionäre Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg Am Flutgraben 1, Alt-Treptow U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor U1 U-Bahn Heinrich Heinestraße U8 Mon-Sun 9pm Till Late U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor U2 Mon-Sun 10pm till late Mon-Sun 9am till late Cover: €5 Cover: €1 for the DJ www.so36.de www.clubdervisionaere.com This would-be abandoned lot is a Fran- conia home away from home. With its red double decker bus offering indoor With its eclectic selection of music, ranging seating, Republik Frank und Frei is a Cool and classy, Club der Visionäre is a little Tresor from Cyndi Lauper to Snoop Dogg, SO36 little beer garden with a twist. Franco- gem hidden by weeping willows nestled by Köpenicker Straße 70, Mitte is more than just a club named after the nia is a region of Germany made up of the river Spree. Housed in an old boat shed U-Bahn Heinrich-Heine-Straße U8 old postcode of Kreuzberg. With relatively the northern parts of Bavaria, a small is a small smoke filled dance floor-cum-bar, Wed 12am – 9am, Fri 12am – 11:30am, cheap drinks and an electric atmosphere, area of southern Thuringia and a region where you can find reasonably priced drinks Sat 12am – 11:30am SO36 is one of Berlin’s more popular called Heilbronn-Franken. Franconia before walking out onto the ramshackle Cover: Wednesday, €5 Fri/Sat €10–€15 nightlife spots. Walk down a long hallway has almost 300 small local breweries, wooden decking. Long tables and benches (Special events may cost more) and has a wine region that produces an are available but are packed with patrons www.tresorberlin.com plastered with stickers and graffiti before entering a huge room equipped with a abundance of delicious red and white massive dance floor and disco ball hanging wines. from the ceiling. Glow-in-the-dark stickers The Republik specialises in Franconian Garish, smutty and techno-injected Tre- are stuck to the black walls and the beats local beers, wine, as well as food. The sor is not a club for the faint of heart or thump intensely, little indication of this is area is famous for the small Nuremberg mind. Founded in the early 90s in the given outside. bratwurst. You can also find sauerbra- vaults of the former Wertheim depart- A projector hangs from the ceiling above, ten, which is a German version of a pot ment store in Mitte, the club closed for shining cartoons onto one of the walls. roast usually beef marinated, before several years due to its short-term rent. Meanwhile, a curtain separates the DJ being cooked in a mixture of vinegar Today the colossal club is spread over booth and dance floor from an area with and spices, traditionally served with red three floors of a renovated power plant. a ping pong table and more comfortable cabbage, potato dumplings or noodles. A caged-in DJ booth spans the entire chairs for those who want a break from Republik Frank und Frei is an outdoor length of one of walls in the basement, dancing. space and has a lot of comfortable seat- which is host to minimal, grimy techno. Open until whenever the last body drops on ing. There is a fire pit usually lit on chilly nudging elbow to elbow. Dangle your feet Luckily, there’s a separate bar here the dance floor and with a €5 cover charge, nights, as well as a canvas covered sofa into the canal or wander to the staircase off with black leather seating. Mainstream SO36 is one for the hard-core party goer. area underneath the trees. Red lanterns to the side where you’ll find another floor house beats and psychedelic lights are hang from the trees’ branches, making above the main deck. The theme of a pier pumped and shone on the second floor the mood romantic, while giving off a is continued by wooden flooring, where in the Globus bar area. Here lies the mood that is the epitome of relaxed. there is a pizzeria offering delicious brick main bar, along with tables and chairs The staff are friendly and eager to tell oven baked pizzas. Table tops are tickled and secluded romantic alcoves. Screens you about the wines and beers they by the dangling willow branches and the showing funky, colourful graphics also offer. A generous glass of Franconian strings of coloured lights amid the branches silhouette the wild occupants of the rosé costs €3.40, where as the white offer a romantic setting. The music is never throbbing dance floor. Finally, there is is €3.80. The music is lounge-electro too loud here, so the atmosphere is that of the +4 Bar on the third floor which pro- and somehow flows with the rest of fervent chatter. As this rustic drinking den vides near peace in the musical mad- the décor and adds to the über chilled is quite popular don’t be surprised if it’s ness. Taken together, Tresor is able to atmosphere. If the weather turns nasty, packed on a Wednesday by 11:30 p.m. with blast blinding beats and thumping bass there is always the big red bus, decked punters enjoy beers for €2.50 and shots for any self-professed techno freak. The out with benches and tables to sit in- for €2. Open practically all weekend, this is drinks menu ranges in price, with beer side of. This is the perfect place to grab definitely a place to have a couple of rela- being €3.50 and mixed drinks between a few drinks before heading next door tively quiet drinks, unwind and solve world €6.50–€7.50. to Sage Club. hunger after a hard night’s clubbing.

68 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Nightlife 69 If playing tourist, party animal and culture fiend on your trip to Berlin has left you needing some time to wind down, then per- haps a little retail therapy is in order. Berlin’s shopping landscape is as eclectic as its inhabitants, meaning throughout its many boroughs there is something for everyone. Lovers of garments fresh off the run way are advised to visit the luxury boutiques of Fasanenstrasse or Ku‘damm Berlin‘s world famous shopping boulevard. Meanwhile, those more in need of a mall should head to Alexa at Alexanderplatz or the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden where you will find European standards such as H&M or Intimissi. While these stores provide the staples or ample sustenance for the window shopper within, edgy boutiques and flea markets are the grassroots of Berliner fashion. Kastinenalle is filled with quirky second hand stores and affordable designer wear to keep your shop- ping cravings satisfied. Mostly in the fiscal grasp of the young travel- ler Berlin’s popular market and second hand culture means shopping of this caliber is in abundance, particularly on weekends. So don your Berliner tote and walking shoes and lose yourself in the myriad of markets. -EC s h oppin g {einkaufen}

70 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 71 robots (not for sale) or the sight of a Chaos in Form golden trophy giving you the finger Falckensteinstraße 46, Kreuzberg draws you back. Mon- Sun 11am-8pm secondhand& www.chaosinform.com Paul’s Boutique is described by its own- handmade ers as the ‘Mothership’ of their three boutiques in Mitte and Kreuzberg and with good reason. Loosely organised and packed to the rafters, leave your- If you’ve ever wondered where all the self some time to trawl this shop for a cool kids head to fill their closets with bargain. Clothes start from as little as €5 the chicest Berliner and shoes from €20. clothing and accessories, the answer is a little white walled shop called Chaos in Form. This jam-packed shop finds fame Killerbeast Berlin on the city’s fashion scene for stocking Wolliner Straße and resembles a time Schleisische Straße 31, Kreuzberg edgy urban wear, an eclectic array of Stiefel Kombinat warp back into a 1960’s living room, U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor, U1 knuckledusters and neon leather band Eberswalder Straße 22 & Wolliner minus the stiff-backed business-driven Mon 3pm-7:30pm, Straße 18 - 19, Prenzlauer Berg watches to boot. Eighties-style rain coats father and servile housewife. Sell- Tue - Fri 12pm-7:30pm, U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße Sat 11am-4pm for Mon - Sat, 10am-10pm & Mon - Sat ing gorgeous retro stools, tables and www.killerbeast.de €30 provide a great way to embrace Ber- 12pm-8pm lamps, it is not as well suited to the lin’s temperamental weather and their www.stiefelkombinat.de traveller’s immediate needs, however, resin Pakman it is well worth a window shop. Set brooches are nothing short of cool. aside an hour or two to complete the Nothing says a fresh kill like a garment Wares for guys are not forgotten with trilogy of shops and embrace decades made right in front of your eyes. With screen printed t-shirts, hoodies gone by like never before. designs for young and old, shy and bold, and a great range of neon watches from Reviving fashion from the 40’s to the 80’s this boutique is a gorgeous stop-off for a nice €20. If some items can’t squeeze throughout three shops, Stiefel Kombinat those who appreciate clothing made their way into your travel budget, check- in Prenzlauer Berg is the Mecca of vintage with love. As with most items of apparel ing out this shop as a snap shot of the shopping in Berlin. Paul’s Boutique Orderburger Straße 47, Mitte that aren’t ‘Made in China’, the prices do latest Berliner fashion will still make a Displaying racks upon racks of clothes, U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße, U2 start from €20 but the quality and style visit worth your while. shoes, bags, accessories and home wares Mon-Sun 12pm-8pm certainly make them worthwhile. to boot, the hefty price tag that comes www.paulsboutiqueberlin.com The product range is eclectic and you with each item matches its pristine quality. would be hard pressed to find two gar- For example, if you forgot to throw your ments exactly the same. An exploration white platform knee high boots into your mission through the racks will turn up backpack, €50 will buy you a new pair. Easily located by the mass of clothing anything from sassy beaver print dresses If your PJ’s have gone missing during your that spills out onto the street, this bou- for €69 to a colourful baby romper with travels, vintage laced bloomers, night tique is a halfway house for unloved cross bones for the little ones from dresses and night shirts have their very knit jumpers, discarded hot pants and €22. If Killerbeast doesn’t leave you own section with prices starting from €15 the biggest collection of pre-loved with a shopping bag in your hand, then in this flagship store. Adidas, Converse and Nike shoes in a Christmas wish list is bound to have Guys need not worry either, because the Berlin. A few bin-worthy pieces posing flourished during your visit. retro male range is housed in the sibling as wearable clothing are bound to be shop right next door. found across the three rooms. Fortu- The third branch of this chain is found on nately, a nerdy collection of retro toy

72 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Shopping 73 Trödel und Kunstmarkt Moritzplatz Flea Market Straße des 17. Juni, Charlottenburg Moritzplatz. Kreuzberg S-Bahn Tiergaten, S3/S5/S7/S75 Sat-Sun 10am-5pm U-Bahn Moritzplatz markets Sat-Sun, 8am-4pm

The Trödel und Kunstmarkt (‘Junk and Every Saturday and Sunday from 10am, Art Market’) pops up on the western Hackescher Market springs to life under outskirts of city’s famed green space the arches of the escher Market S-Bahn, every weekend. Dwarfed by some of in the trendy Berlin borough of Mitte. on the hunt for new threads to put Berlin’s major weekend markets, this Providing the best of Berlin’s handmade Kreuzberg Turkish Market Maybachuferstraße through their sewing machines. small but treasure-laden market may wares, (you won’t find H&M circa 2005 U-Bahn SchÖnleinstraße Delving deeper into the market and weave its way into your itinerary for here) what this market lacks in size, it Tues, Fri & Sat 10am - 6pm away from the Kottbusser Brucke selling some of the finer relics of Berlin’s certainly makes up for in local and inter- (Bridge), bowls of olives, feta and past. national artistic talent. dips, excite the taste buds and you may If you’re looking for that authentic Milk cartons and rubber tubing are giv- gain a few kilos just looking them. Arabic antique military pin to decorate your en a second life as clutch purses are sold With 300,000 Turkish people calling spices, nuts and sweets new blazer or a white porcelain dog that from €9 to €22 and from €20 antique Berlin home it is no wonder that Kreuz- also help you to indulge in this short sec- will sit perfectly on your mantelpiece, silverware finds renewed purposes as berg’s Turkish market tion in Kreuzberg’s ‘Turkey’. then chances are you’ll find it here. Old- candelabras or garden features, prices succeeds in bringing Istanbul, to the Second hand clothing is not a feature school chess timers will help you beat starting from €20. Stalls of cheeses, heart of the borough three times a of this market; however shoes, cheaper your grandmother fair and square, while meats, fruit and veggies also provide week. Lining the banks of the Landwehr- than the price of a couple one of the many second hand children’s the freshest ingredients for a great Sat- kanal on Maybachufer for nearly a of kebabs, are in abundance. Further on, books provide a great way to begin to urday picnic or Sunday roast. kilometre, the market is the biggest of its the smell of incense draws you towards learn German. Stalls full of furs are scat- The price of coffee in this area may sting kind in Berlin and a ‘forget me not’ when African style jewellery tered throughout the market, as are a (around €3) but if you’re one for atmos- visiting the area. and kitschy souvenirs of The TV Tower. A number selling second hand vintage de- phere, the Hackescher Market has the The livestock-yard-meets Istanbul vibe small wooden platform at the very end signer labels with prices starting at €20. weekend brunch scene down pat. Brass comes to life from around 11am, when of the market provides a stage for local Not every stall is a gold mine, but if bands, one man bands and a Capella the daily specials on musicians to play their hearts out and you’re sentimental and enjoy finding collectives compete for sound space fresh fruits and vegetables are rattled off market goers to relax on the banks of that little antique knick-knack to remind around the market and keep those who at a rapid pace. Each vendor’s cries are the canal. you of your time in Berlin, this market have retired to one of the many sur- only silenced by his The variety of goods at this market sets will be well worth it. rounding café’s well entertained. competitors or the need for a breath of it apart from others and while signs fresh air to allow the frenzy to continue. hanging from neighbours Vendors do well in giving balconies call for the market to be can- Supermarket chains a run for their celled- it nonetheless continues to thrive money, as they sell cherries for around every week. €3 per kilo, pineapples for €1 or If you head to the market towards the lettuces for €0.50. end of the day, chances are you can take With the canal as a scenic backdrop, advantage of vendors tables of Turkish fabrics from €1 a meter, offering bargains like a bag of tomatoes are over-run by Turkish women, curious for a €1 or spinach for €0.50. tourists and budding fashion designers

74 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Shopping 75 a bargain is sure to be found. Moritzplatz Flea Market Everything, including the kitchen sink, is Moritzplatz. Kreuzberg up for grabs. If you‘re out to channel the U-Bahn Moritzplatz Sat-Sun, 8-16 vintage chic fashion of Berlin, €50 spent here will reinvent your wardrobe. For the not so temporary Berliner, €20 could help decorate a drab apartment! Second The Moritzplatz weekend market is a unique find on Oranienstraße, in the hand bikes available from €60 can be a north of great investment in seeing the city under Kreuzberg. Nowhere else in Berlin will your own steam. you discover plots of ripening tomatoes, The market is complemented by a spring onions Woodstock-meets-the-millennium vibe and lettuces sitting next to sprawling when hippies, students and young fami- treasure chests of clothing. Or low-lying lies are drawn to a grassy expanse next tree used as clothing racks. Or pre-loved to the mass of stalls to the sounds of cabbage patch dolls sold right beside Berlin‘s up and coming Karaoke masters. the cabbage patches from where they Set on an open air amphitheatre, apparently once came. Karaoke starts from around 3pm and the A flea market solely by weekend, from Monday to Friday Moritzplatz is also best of the best can be witnessed SO36 Nightmarket home to a transportable organic com- busting out anything from Justin Tim- Oranienstraße 190 munity garden. Toiled over and lov- berlake to Nina Simone well into the U-Bahn Kottbusser Tor ingly treasured by those who live on its Mauer Park Markt afternoon. You would be well advised to 3rd Wed of the Month 8pm outskirts, as well as tourists and school www.SO36.de Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer arrive early if Karaoke is your thing, as groups, this space makes for a gorgeous Berg seats are quickly hard to come by. market setting. U-Bahn Eberswalder Straße, U2 Expect vintage clothing and designer Sun 10am-6pm Once a month the crew at SO36 in Kreuz- jewellery to start from €20 – so be pre- berg swap their beer soaked dance floor pared to haggle for a bargain. If this still for racks of clothes and old-school beats blows your travel budget, young fash- Once a week this gravel and dirt lot for worn suitcases packed with clothing ionable vendors looking to pay the rent of yester month, year and decade. bring the price on modern items down plays host to an eclectic mix of Berlin This night club-cum-night market is to as little as €5. residents and travellers looking for their well-suited to a cheeky treasure hunt Two permanent cafes toward the back weekly flea market fix. The market is before dinner or a cold beer with friends of the space provide hot and cold drinks not the cheapest nor the oldest in town while deliberating over €5 retro purses from €1.70 and ample seating for visitors however, since its inception in 2004, it and well loved Converse shoes from €15 to enjoy any number of musicians who has become a major player in the cities . Its popularity will at times leave you on a Sunday grace the stage to entertain market scene. awkwardly waddling down the rows of the masses. Crammed with as many goodies as there tables, but you’ll be sure to find a spot to are people to buy them, each item has a breathe at either end. story behind it, and Foosball tables and live music keeps there is no shortage of vendors who those who are not in the mood for shop- ping entertained. would love to fabricate a more interest- While a little thin on the side of variety, ing version to pass off their the atmosphere makes up for it as a cool wares. Prices are a litter higher than place to chill out on a Wednesday night some of the smaller markets however, out. with a little patience and skill,

76 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Shopping 77 Berlin may not be known for vivacious mountains or white waters, but it does have its own unique twist on outdoor activities; keeping those who can’t get enough of the open-air, entertained. From mini golf to bungee jumping off of The TV Tower, the perfect amount of adrenaline for you is waiting to be discovered all over the city. Take a kayak on the River Spree, stopping in at the Badeshiff for a swim in the floating pool will quench your thirst for fresh air. Looking for something a little more edgy? Trek up to Teufeslberg and see what is hidden beyond the man-made hills. Berlin is full of pending discoveries which create a perfect playground for those with a passion for the great outdoors. The city’s outdoors will teach you to push your limits not only physi- outdoors cally, but mentally. This will be thoroughly proved when your sun is blocked by a naked body at Muggelsee or after you’ve climbed Dev- ils Mountain only to find abandoned buildings filled with imminent & ACTIVITIES secrets. The unique outdoors that Berlin offers is pleasing in the most unconventional ways. Indulge, learn, grow and inspect all that the world has put forward, including the mystifying city of {Freizeitbeschäftigungen} Berlin. -MC

78 Berlin: “Is this real life?” 79 Room after room on the second floor is filled with moving animations that outline the grisly activities that took place inside the bunker. After taking the previous two floors, the third floor is quite liberating. It’s the floor that’s sheds light on all of the disturb- ing scenery you just took in. Display- ing newspaper clippings and personal belongings that were found in the bunker during World War II, it takes you on a perturbing journey through the past - one that will remain with Teufelsberg to Alexanderplatz and The TV Tower. You you long after visiting Gruselkabinett. Teufelsbergchaussee should wear thick-soled shoes, for broken S-Bahn Heerstraße, S3/S75 glass and debris cover the floors. A flash Tour €15 www.berlinsightout.de light for dark corners inside of the building and a camera to capture the memory will also come in handy on this adventure. Be Those with a craving for the mysterious aware that tours are required upon en- outdoors will find Teufelsberg (‘Devil’s trance of the buildings; you shouldn’t enter Müggelsee Mountain’) satisfying in every way. This alone or without a guide, as the building S-Bahn Friedrichshagen, S3 man-made hill, filled with rubble from itself is a hazardous place to be without the Cold War, is teeming with secrets knowledgeable navigation. As risky as it may and riches. The 45 minute trek to be, the towers are filled with graffiti, history Teufelsberg is easy if you follow the ar- and an extraordinary view of Germany’s favourite city. Located on the eastern side of the city, rows, conveniently spray painted on the Müggelsee is a hotspot for boaters, sidewalk. When visiting in the summer, swimmers, sunbathers and picnickers you’ll pass the flourishing green mead- looking for a relaxing day outdoors on ows and you may get a glimpse of trek- Berlin’s largest lake. Finding that per- kers flying kites in the clear blue sky. Gruselkabinett fect patch of sand to park yourself on is Continuing through the brushy green Schöneberger Straße 23A no problem upon arrival. Several leafy path, you’ll notice the abandoned NSA S-Bahn Anhalter Bahnhof, U-Bahn Gleis- paths through the charming park will buildings, which the US used as a listen- dreieck Mon 10am-3pm lead you to an ideal spot. From there ing station during the Cold War. When you lie back and relax, have a picnic trying to enter for a closer look of these Tue, Thu-Fri, Sun 10am - 7pm, Sat 12pm-8pm Adult €9.50, Children €5.50 and go for a swim in the relatively Cold War relics, at first you’ll be blocked www.gruselkabinett-berlin.de shallow waters (apparently 8-metres by a chain link fence. However, if you deep in some parts). If you’re looking look closely, there’s a hole where “un- for something more exciting, you can wanted visitors” have broken in to ob- always check out one of the boat rental tain a firsthand look. Luckily, tours are This historical yet horrifying experience in shops that surround the lake, offering offered for a mere price of €15 where a 19th century World War II bunker is split everything from canoes and kayaks to a guide will gladly escort you safely to across three floors. The first floor is filled motorboats. The streets on the way an easy access entrance and provide with vivacious figures and eerie sounds. Be to Muggelsee are filled with cafes and valuable knowledge of the exploration ice cream parlours. Whether you are prepared for a shocking walk through an through Teufelsberg. The disintegrating looking for a relaxing day to bask in the tower offers a bird’s eye view of Berlin; intense display of dark, medieval figures. sun or an adrenaline-filled boat ride, everything from the Olympic Stadium This is not for the faint of heart. Müggelsee is the perfect day trip.

80 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Outdoors and Activities 81 Tiergarten Kurfürstendamm 25 10719 Berlin, Germany

Tiergarten is not only home to the city’s parliamentary district, but it also provides a large, green-space for Berlin- ers to relax, soak in the sun or enjoy an evening lounging with a beer in a shady corner of the park. In the past, it used to serve as a hunting ground for the Badeschiff Eichenstraße 4, Kreuzberg social elite, therefore being an ‘animal Charlottenburg Palace Gardens/ U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor, U1 park’. Today, although it is no longer a May - September 8am-12am Schloss Charlottenburg hunting ground, the name still does it Spandauer Damm, Charlottenburg Adult €4, Student €3 Ubahn Sophie-Charlotte-Platz U2 or www.arena-berlin.de/badeschiff.aspx Richard-Wagner-Platz U7 Mon-Sun, 10am-10pm You are led down to the glistening Carp Pond and venturing around to the other side gifts you the setting for a It’s a hot day in Berlin and air breath-taking photo of the Palace and conditioning doesn’t exist in this eco- its rippling reflection. Exploring further friendly city. Wouldn’t it be nice to en- ‘The greatest gift of the garden is the allows you to visit the Mausoleum which joy the day swimming in a chilled pool, restoration of the five senses.’ English was built by King Friedrich Wilhelm III relaxing in the sand with a cocktail in author, Hanna Rion’s thoughts are in honour of his wife Queen Luise, and hand? Luckily, artist Susanne Lorenz has confirmed when you wander through houses their delicately, detailed marble the sensuous Charlottenburg Palace tombs. The historic mystique and wind- created the Badeschiff, an invention gardens. A short stroll through this ing paths while have you wandering for justice, for nestled inside you can find that started off as an outdoor art peaceful district, the magnificently hours. -HK the Berlin Zoo. For those wanting to project within the city of Berlin. beautiful Charlottenburg Palace sits unwind and while the day away, the A former barge has been re-used as a alone surrounded by its enchanting park offers many beer gardens and pool floating in the River Spree, giving grounds. Although the Palace itself cafés. Take a trip to Café Am Neuen See, the people of Berlin a place to enjoy the may be considered as the main grab a row boat and explore through summer weather during the day and the glistening waters of the Tiergarten. attraction, the gardens are exquisite night. The sandy beach offers a place to If you’re looking for something more and provide the ideal opportunity for a bathe in the sun, while the bar sells a free day out. adventurous, walk over to the Victory variety of beverages, including beer and Restored to their original Baroque style Column. Atop the towering column after World War II, the gardens are stands the statue of a golden goddess cocktails. There’s more on offer than extensive and as you amble through and an observation deck that offers just fun in the sun with its yoga classes, you will stumble across many treasures a charming panoramic view of the as at night the whole place transforms hidden amongst the ancient shadowy gardens. Just north, you’ll find Bellevue into a fun hang-out: the illuminated trees. The formal manicured garden Palace, where the German President pool is surrounded by house electro extends gracefully away from the resides. The 23 km’s of paths will surely music with no shortage of drinks and a Palace, it is a haven of vibrant colours lead you to somewhere astounding striking view of the river reflecting the and sweet perfumes which tickle your where you can indulge in a multiplicity city. senses and tempt you in. of outdoor pleasures.

82 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Outdoors and Activities 83 Don’t worry, disinfectant stations are avail- Berlin Zoo able after a pony has licked your hands Zoo Aquarium Berlin Hardenbergplatz 8, Mitte clean. Another must see is the feeding of Hardenbergplatz 8, Mitte www.zoo-berlin.de/ the sea lions every day at 3:15pm. Grab www.zoo-berlin.de S-Bahn Zoologischer Garten an ice cream and head on over to their S-Bahn Zoologischer Garten S5/S7/S75/S9 S5/S7/S75/S9 U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U2/U9 or enclosure in plenty of time as seats around U-Bahn Zoologischer Garten U2/U9 Kurfürstendamm U1/U9 the glass wall of their tank fill up fast. There or Kurfürstendamm U1/U9 Check Website for Seasonal Times is also the Night Time enclosure underneath Combination ticket for the Zoo + the big cats which is worth a visit. Bats and Mon-Fri 9am – 6pm Aquarium: €20 Students: €15 Kangaroo Hares dwell in this dimly lit space. Cost: Adults: €13 Students: €10 And for those keen on ornithology, the Combination ticket for the Zoo + Berlin Zoo is one of the few zoos to display Aquarium: €20 Students: €15 Tuatara and Luzon Tarictic Hornbills in the The Berlin Zoo is no ordinary walk on huge aviary. -HH the wild side. With the world’s most comprehensive range of species and Enter an underwater paradise on Schwarzlicht Mini Golf & Parkcafé Isa Mitz almost 3 million visitors, The Berlin Zoo Budapester Straße near the impressive Görlitzerstraße 1, Kreuzberg is an impressive place. The first zoo in Görlitzer Park Lion entrance to the Berlin Zoo. The Zoo Germany, it opened in 1844, and cov- U-Bahn Görlitzer Bahnhof U1 ers 84 acres within Berlin’s Tiergarten. Aquarium Berlin was opened in 1913, Mon- Fri 12pm – 10pm During World War II, the zoo area was and following its reconstruction after it Sat-Sun 10am - 10pm completely destroyed and only 91 of Cost: €4.50 was destroyed during WW2, has been www.indoor-minigolf-berlin.de the 3,715 animals survived. Near the ranked among public aquariums with end of the war the zoo was turned into the world’s greatest biodiversity. Over a fort with Flak towers and was used as a centre of Nazi resistance against Red 9,000 animals are displayed on three Army and allied air forces. After the zoo’s storeys, in addition to its 250 fish tanks. Put-put into oblivion or maybe just a galaxy destruction, it and the aquarium were Coconut Crabs to Komodo Dragons, the far, far away at Schwarzlicht Mini Golf. reconstructed on the basis that animals reptile area within the Aquarium is also Here dazzling UV wall murals will send you on a trip as you try and put your ball into be housed in enclosures that resembled impressive. Take a look at the deep sea their natural environment. The success futuristic labyrinths, trying to get it into that area within the Aquarium which houses of this can be seen in Berlin Zoo’s breed- pesky hole. Wander in from Görlitzer Park ing programme. Nautiluses and also Flashlight fish. and see what else is on the menu at Isa Vistors can enter the zoo through the These fish have large bioluminescent Mitz Café, where staff will gladly hand you a exotic Elephant Gate beside the organs that have glowing red bacteria score sheet, a putter and send you on your aquarium on Budapester Straße or in them. The organs, located under merry way into the basement where all the madness begins. Elaborate drawings of city- through the Lion Gate on their eyes are used to attract prey or to Hardenbergplatz. With plenty of ani- scapes in day glow UV colours adorn every mals, children and adults alike will enjoy communicate with other fish. Another square inch of wall in the first room, while spending a day wandering around the attraction is the shark and sting ray the holes themselves are outlined in thick grounds, taking in the sights of moun- tank. Hammerhead sharks, sting rays, glow in the dark yellow. Try and put your tain goats up steep manmade cliffs and giant sea bass and the menacing looking ball up a pyramid in the tricky space galaxy room, or through zig zagging bends in the pygmy hippopotamuses lazing in the sand shark are publicly fed on Mondays sun. Also equally enjoyable is the petting underwater room. Here dolphins and mana- and Thursdays from 2pm. There is also zoo, which houses an assortment of tees accompany you on your mini golfing goats, sheep, ponies and donkeys. the Aquarium Bistro which is true to adventure. An unbelievable space consider- For 20¢ you can get just over a hand- canteen form, where you can grab a bite ing its four small rooms packing in 18 holes ful of pellets to feed the ever hungry before the sharks are fed. -HH and fantastic art work,Schwarzlicht Mini livestock. Golf is a fun, fluorescent way to experience a new kind of mini golfing, Berlin style. -HH

84 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Outdoors and Activities 85 HISTORY BOY

Chris Williams-Wynn Birthday: 21 August 1987 Nationality: Australian Hometown: Melbourne Role: Writer/Photographer/Editor Main Section: Galleries and Museums

Hailing from the Land Down Under, this young culture vulture spent his days hitting up as many of Berlin’s artistic offerings as he could. Whether it was examining 16th century Dutch land- scapes, gazing at floor-to-ceiling silk- screens by Warhol or contemplating epic installations, he could be found ambling through galleries and museums. Al- though trained in economics, he couldn’t resist moving towards the arty-side of town, fuelled by that German favourite, coffee and cake. Although sweets and caffeine are favourites, it would not be advised to get between this eating-ma- chine and a kebab. Not done with Berlin by a long shot, expect to see him back in town sooner rather than later.

Chris Says: Given the sheer number of works on display in the state museums, it’s very difficult to see them all during the day. Luckily, museum managers have realised this fact - almost all the state institutions are open until 10 pm every

{mitwirkende} Thursday, great for those that feel like they could spend the night. Contributors 86 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Contributors 87 LITTLE MADAME MISS SCHOKOLADE NIGHTLIFE

Helen King Hayley Hatherell Birthday: 29 September 1989 Birthday: 23 June 1989 Nationality: Scottish Nationality: British Hometown: Hamilton Hometown: What is that? Role: Writer/Layout Role: Writer/Photographer Main Section: Food Main Section: Nightlife

Helen is a Scottish thistle, sans the When she isn’t travelling the world, this thorns. This highland beauty has brought self-professed party animal likes nothing much needed sarcasm and hilarity to better than to curl up on the sofa with Berlin. With her witty comparisons her dog Bandit, and a good film or book. between her more sun-kissed compan- Having studied at Central Saint Martins ions and herself, Helen has a heart of in London, Hayley has a special eye for gold. This self professed connoisseur of photography. This globe-trotting girl has ‘food porn’ has one thing on her mind the energy of ten people, keeping the – her stomach. If you want to get into city alive day and night. Her vibrant per- Helen’s good books, offer her insight into sonality shines through every time she happening places for lunch, you’re sure meets someone new, encouraging them to grab her attention. With a growing to join her on her next adventure that is passion for literature and her journal- sure to be full of laughs and a delicious istic writing skills constantly put to use, cocktail. Born in Scotland but rasied in a Helen is able to sniff out new and excit- miriade of different countries, Berlin is ing places to dine. Don’t be fooled by the last stop before she settles down for these introverted traits, as Helen has a a few years of study in her native home- passion for her home team, Motherwell land. One thing is certain, you won’t FC. When she isn’t cheering her beloved forget her wild ways in a hurry! football team on, you’re more than likely to catch Helen curling on the ice. No, Hayley Says: Although a lot of clubs in really. Berlin say that thay are ‘snazzy’ and a little ‘dressier’ than the other clubs in Helen Says: The amount of delicious town, this only extends as far as the food on offer in Berlin makes it easy to cover charge. Most places just want to just eat and do nothing else. Take time keep the ratio of guys to girls in favour to indulge in the culinary delights but of the latter. So don’t think black tie just don’t forget to visit a few sights too! dress to dance.

88 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Contributors 89 LADY OF CHILD OF LAYOUT THE WILD

Emma Couch Morgan Carver Birthday: 27 February 1987 Birthday: 17 May 1990 Nationality: Australian Nationality: American Hometown: Griffith Hometown: Waynesville, Role: Layout/Writer North Carolina Main Section: Shopping Role: Writer/Photographer/Editor Main Section: Outdoors and Activities Emma is a vivacious Aussie with an unquenchable thirst for life, or maybe Morgan is the type of girl who makes just for Italy. Travelling is not just a you feel as though you’re in on one of hobby but a way of life for this dark- life’s greatest inside jokes. Constantly haired beauty, and Berlin is just one finding the weird and the wonderful, of many stops on an 18month long colourful expeditions into Berlin have European tour. Bursting with energy, been orchestrated with Morgan at the Emma sacrificed sleep for all night helm. The same can be applied to her dancing, or more impressively InDesign outlook on life, continually exploring sessions. Her design skills and artistic what the world has to offer and chal- eye allowed her to take charge of the lenging it for more. With her keen stunning guide lay-out. Despite many eye assisting her in her photography, an argument with her ‘compact’ laptop Morgan has put forward many amaz- and the insanity caused by staring at it, ing photos offering insight into a more Emma has survived all that Berlin could ‘secret’ Berlin. With her background in throw at her. broadcast journalism, Morgan is con- stantly in search of a ‘scoop.’ Emma Says: If you’re an avid market goer, be it flea, art or food, covering the Morgan Says: Berlin’s outdoors are Berlin market scene requires a strudy something special. Take the time to pair of shoes, patience for dawdllers explore this wondrous city, as there is a and a Monday to Sunday schedule to lot more than meets the eye; you just keep track of them all. have to look for it. I advise you to go forth and haggle! A good tip is to start with half of what your willing to pay and working your way up from there!

90 90 Berlin: “Is this real life?” Contributors 91 92 Berlin: “Is this real life?”