ASSEMBLED ENGINE (To hole) (To spring arms) THE ORIG INAL 4. MEYER MANX STREET NOTE: Position engine and rear suspension units, so the metal axle 2 BUCKET SEATS TOP will slide through the holes freely. BRAKE LEVER (C)(To slot) WINDSHIELD (Clear) 23 (To A) 16 WINDSHIELD FRAME (To frame) 14 12 9 10 (C) (To ) 2 MIRROR (C) 10 (To frame) 2 REAR SHOCKS (To windshield frame) (To pin) “ WINDSHIELD WIPERS ✽ (To body) ” SHIFT LEVER (C)(To slot) 13 6 Meyers Manx (C) (To holes) INSTRUMENT AMT651-200 (To backing plate) 9 11 PANEL (To hood) STEERING WHEEL (C) READ THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN (To pin) This kit may be built more than one way. Look over this instruction sheet carefully cement to join parts, and be careful not to smear cement on exposed surfaces. STEERING LINKAGE 15 (To notch) (3) REAR WINDOW (Clear) before you begin building. You may decide to combine parts from the different To duplicate Stock automotive colors using stock aerosol touch-up finishes, use this (See detail) ✱ 7 12 6 NOTE: Open (To opening) versions shown, or use parts from other AMT kits. After you’ve planned your , procedure: METAL AXLES 3 follow the assembly instructions and "test-fit" the parts without cementing. This will First, dust on two coats of AMT Clear Lacquer. When completely dry, follow with a flashed hole BATTERY (To body) (To tab) familiarize you with the location of the parts. very light coat of touch-up, then apply succeedingly heavier coats until the desired (Slide through holes) REAR SEAT (3 pcs.) For the best results, the various sub-assemblies and components should be painted finish is achieved. It should be noted that these directions must be very carefully CHASSIS BACKBONE 4 5 (To body) before any chrome parts are attached. For example: When attaching non-chrome body followed, to prevent the usual crazing of the styrene which occurs when automotive (To floor pan) 3 ✱ 15 accessories, it is best to cement them in place and paint the body as a unit. lacquers are applied directly. 14 GAS CAP (C) 8 STEERING COLUMN (1) 13 AMT kits are molded from the finest high-impact styrene plastic. Use only paint and Built according to the instructions on this sheet, you should have no trouble (To hole) 2 REAR SUSPENSION (Through hole) cement made for styrene. Trim excess plastic from parts before joining. When attaching assembling your model. Just FOLLOW THE NUMBERS, as the parts are numbered in the 16 HOOD (To body) (2) chrome parts, scrape plating away where parts are to be joined. Use just enough order of assembly. NOTE: (C) indicates "chrome" parts. (To backing plate) UNITS (C) (To pin) LOCATE ASSEMBLED 2 HEADLIGHTS (2 pcs.) (To pin) REAR WHEELS TO AXLE 5 22 (To body) FRONT 19 REAR LICENSE PLATE (C) (To body) 1. ENGINE 2. EXHAUST SUSPENSION DETAIL FRONT LICENSE 1 18 BASIC ASSEMBLIES UNIT PLATE (C) (Clear) (C) BODY (To chassis) MUFFLER (MX-S) “STINGER” EXHAUST (To backbone) 4 (To hood) FAN SHROUD (2 pcs.) (C) (To holes) COIL (C) (To hole) LEGEND (To collector) (C) (DB & MX) 7 REAR TORSION (To collector) STEERING LINKAGE (DB) 2 FRONT SPRING (To tab) 2 9 11 SHOCKS MEYERS MANX-STREET (MX-S) 6 NOTE: Open these GAS TANK (2 pcs.) NOTE: Open these GENERATOR (C) (To hole) 17 two flashed holes for (To opening) MEYERS MANX (MX) 8 two flashed holes “MX” and “DB” versions. 11 LOCATE ASSEMBLED for “DB” version. 2 CARBURETORS 12 STEERING FRONT WHEELS TO FOOT PEDALS (To hole) 2 PARKING 1 FRONT SUSPENSION UNIT (Backing plate) (2 pcs.) (C) (To holes on back 5 EXHAUST BOX (To hole) BACKING PLATE 2 LIGHTS (C) 20 (To holes) sides of heads) (To body) 21 A 17 FAN BELT (C) COLLECTOR ✽ (C) (To pin) (1) (To exhaust pipe ends FRONT BUMPER (C) 2 TAIL LIGHTS (2 pcs.) (Red) 10 4 “1”, “2” & “3”) STARTER (C) (To right OIL FILTER (C) MEYERS (To holes) (To body) (To block) 13 side of bellhousing) MANX FINAL ASSEMBLIES 7 (“B” pipe through “A” 2 BUCKET pipe, to hole) SEATS (To A) DUNE BUGGY 8 WINDSHIELD FRAME 11 14 (To hole) (2) 3 (C) (To hood) 2 CYLINDER WINDSHIELD (Clear) 8 16 2 BUCKET SEATS (B) (To frame) HEADS (2 pcs.) 12 STEERING COWL BAR/BRACES (To floor pan) (To rear (A) SURRY TOP (To roll bar) OPTION 1 (C) (To holes) (3) WHEEL (C) (To windshield frame) (3 pcs.) (To holes) suspension) NOTE: Fan belt must 6 4 be at an angle, for (To pin) ✶ TONNEAU COVER clearance of exhaust (To hole) (To body D) (To floor pan) system BATTERY (To body) ✱ 1 SKID PLATE/BUMPER 2 STEERING COLUMN (To holes) ENGINE BLOCK (2 pcs.) (C) (To oil pan) 9 (Through hole) 13 C ✳ BATTERY (C) (Cement together) 1 5 7 INSTRUMENT (To floor pan) FLAG POLE 3 7 BAG OF SNAKES EXHAUST NOTE: Open PANEL (To hood) 3 9 (To roll bar) 5 FUEL PUMP (To hole) 6 2 SYSTEM (4 pcs.) flashed hole D TACHOMETER 5 ROLL BAR/BRACE(3 pcs.) OIL PAN (C) NOTE: All pipes must be (C) (To column) 2 VALVE COVERS DISTRIBUTOR positioned so ends “1”, “2” 17 10 (To block) (C) (To heads) (To block) & “3” meet. ✳ FLAG POLE (To roll bar) 3. WHEELS 3 ✱ 4 WHEEL OPTION FRONT WHEELS (MX-S) REAR WHEELS (DB & MX) BODY (To chassis) HOOD (To body) (To cowl bar) STEERING 6 ✳ GAS CAP (C) (To hole) 2 METAL STUB AXLES 2 “GOODYEAR” DUNE ✱ WHEEL (C) 7 2 “GOODYEAR” Hollow GAS CAP (C) 15 ✱ (Through brake drum to 2 FRONT VINYL TIRES TIRES (2 pcs.) 10 (To pin) VINYL TIRES (To hole) ROLL BAR/BRACE(3 pcs.) mag, DO NOT CEMENT) (To holes B) (To body C) NOTE: Remove braces if 2 tonneau cover is to be used. 4 STEERING COLUMN (To pin) 8 GAS TANK (2 pcs.) (To opening) GAS TANK (2 pcs.) (To backbone just behind seats) NOTE: If the builder wishes to use 2 BRAKE DRUMS (C) the chrome reversed wheels, B follow the same assembly 2 “CRAGAR 2 NOTE: Sand off these 2 INNER REAR 2 “CRAGAR 2 INNER REAR 2 “CRAGAR S/S” engraving lines. procedure used for the S/S” MAGS (C) S/S” MAGS (C) A ✱ 1 NOTE: Sand off these engraving lines. “Cragar” mags. 2 FRONT INNER RIMS (C) WHEELS (C) WHEELS (C) MAGS (C) ✶ what is the . . . Whether you purchase the Manx Kit "A" or Kit "B" you are chassis of the Manx are included in the kit. going to need a Volkswagon 1200 sedan (1961 or later After the chassis work has been completed the Manx body preferred) floor pan complete with pedal assemble; shift lever is mounted. Wiring harness, brake reservoir, and gas tank are and linkage assembly; hand brake; main brake line and now installed. Next comes the front and rear body supports master cylinder; front axle and steering assembly; rear along the with the license plate light. transaxle; torsion bar trailing arm assemblies; engine from any year VW sedan, truck, variant, Porsche or Corvair. After this has been completed you are now ready for The Meyers Manx is all things to all men–the perfect car for The Mark II was shorter, stiffer, better riding, better installation of the dash frame and dash to the hood and the the man who'd rather build his own. handling, lighter, stronger and cheaper than was the Manx I. It's cheapest to try and pickup a VW that has been installation of the instrumentation in the dash. wrecked, usually a roll over, since this type accident usually The Meyers Manx is a you can build for $635 plus Meyers was satisfied, that is, almost satisfied. He had Next the hood and dash assembly are attached to the body. old V.W. parts. A fun car that you can license, insure and drive hoped to sell the Mark II Manx as a complete car as well as in leaves all necessary parts intact. anywhere, anytime. kit form. He later discovered to his disappointment that the Last but not least is the mounting of the headlights, After the body has been removed the above parts should Volkswagon people sell the little bug as a complete car only steering column, and windshield. With the top and side curtains in place it's snug as a bug remain assembled as a unit on the wheels for ease of and to assemble each Volkswagon chassis from parts would Your Meyers Manx is now about ready to roll unless you and waterproof. construction. be far too costly. So the Mark II Manx is offered in kit form only In cold weather you can hook up the heater and make it Ideally suited for the home craftsman on a budget who is able to fabricate the remaining components want to add some of the many options that are available. with two different kits available. One is a stripped down shown in Kit “B.” Kit includes basic components: body, hood, dashboard and complete instructions. The Volkswagon chassis must be shortened 14 inches plus warm. These include wide rim wheels, upswept exhaust, skid plate, version that sells for $498 and consists of a beautifully or minus a 1/4 inch to give an 80 inch wheelbase. This is front and rear bumpers, roll bar, carpeting, and fiberglass top Put snow tires on it and it'll go through a blizzard that would finished laminated fiberglass body shell and a front deck lid done by removing a section of the floor pan (see sketch) with only to mention a few. stop a snowmobile. With super balloon tires it's the perfect and a vacuum formed Cycolac dashboard. The other sells for a torch or chisel and then welded back together again. dune buggy. $635 and includes the above plus windshield and frame Whether you want a stripped down or deluxe mild or wild Equip it with racing tires and it'll outhandle and out-brake headlight housings, cowl frame, rear deck covering, aluminum Complete step by step instructions for preparing the fun car it can all be had with the Meyers Manx. most any . trim, rubber weather stripping, welts and all the neces- sary hardware. Bruce F. Meyers, proprietor of F. Meyers and Company, New- port Beach, California, is the originator, designer and builder Painting of a Manx is not necessary because color is impreg- of the Meyers Manx. nated right into the fiberglass and you can choose from such wild colors as Red, Tangerine, Royal Blue, Yama Yellow, The Manx, originally designed as a dune buggy, but equally Marine Green or Off White. at home on the pavement, got its start when Meyers, a gifted fiberglass artist, was looking for new designs to conquer. He The Manx is not difficult to assemble and anyone with decided on building his own car when he learned that a average mechanical ability can do the job in a couple of week- Porsche he had purchased was out of alignment because of a ends. The complete cost of your Manx is, of course, dependent Providing a more complete package for the builder. Kit includes body, hood and dashboard plus all necessary previous accident. on what you pay for the necessary V.W. parts and how far you hardware, including trim, weatherstripping, fenderwelt, spare tire, mounting bracket, battery mounting bracket want to carry the project–the only limitation being your imagi- and all nuts and bolts. Most dune buggies at that time were very ugly in nation. appearance–no compound curves–in fact not much of anything in the way of beauty. So Meyers decided he was For example, you can use the V.W. engine for power or you going to make the best looking dune buggy ever and thus the can switch to a Corvair or Porsche engine, all the way up to Manx I was born. It was a full fiberglass "bathtub" carrying 200 H.P. if you wish. Volkswagon running gear. Many of Meyers' friends, after seeing You can install a luxury interior, , side curtains, mag the car, wanted copies, so he set up shop in an old garage and wheels, 4 wheel disc brakes, fully adjustable suspension and began to produce the Manx I in a kit form that sold for $985. racing tires. You can even put an exotic metalflake paint job on Meyers soon discovered he was losing money on each car he if you wish. produced and decided to redesign the Manx I. The result was The next two pages show a step by step picture story of how the Mark II which was not a full fiberglass "bathtub," but a STOCK VW the Meyers Mark II Manx is assembled. fiberglass body that bolted onto a Volkswagon belly pan. RUNNING GEAR