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Cakethe Victoria Sandwich Is a WI Icon and the Story of This Simple WI Life February 2015 33 The Victoria sandwich is a WI icon Let themand the story of this eatsimple sponge reflects a century of rapid change Words: ARY GWYNN, author of The WI Cookbook: The First 100 years Pictures: ARIE-LOU AVERY Home economist: LINDY WILDSITH CAKEs there a more The NFWI requested suggestions for a national song. In July , three years after potent symbol ‘national Institute song’ in . This led the magazine was first published, a short note of the WI than to much debate on the letters page of the WI in the household tips column finds the first the Victoria magazine, Home & Country. Jerusalem was of three short recipes: ‘Sponge Sandwich - sandwich? chosen for its call for a better future and sung oz. butter or Margarine, ¼ lb of sugar. Beat Buttery and light, filled for the first time by delegates at the th AGM up to a cream. Add eggs well beaten then with a layer of raspberry in . The magazine said ‘the delegates stir in ¼ lb flour, teaspoonfuls of baking jam and with its golden sing hopefully of the New Jerusalem which powder and tablespoonful of milk. Bake ARY GWYNN ARY Isurface dusted with a every institute member is helping to build’. in a quick oven for a quarter of an hour.’ It’s fine coating of caster sugar, its very simplicity The development of the Victoria sandwich recognisably the ancestor of the recipe we denotes the challenge it presents to bakers reflects the story of the WI as it progressed use today. and oven manufacturers. from its origins in the dark days of the First The original Victoria sponge goes back to Back in , were the earliest members World War to today’s modern organisation. the first years of the young Queen’s reign. She making sponges before singing Jerusalem at The earliest recipe for a sponge sandwich was known for her sweet tooth and gave her WI gatherings? It seems not. The truth is far (no royal connection) appeared in Home & name to all kinds of foods – from the popular more complex. Country the same year as the debate over a plum variety to a type of rhubarb, a pea and FEB/COOKERY Victoria Sandwich with coupon.indd 3 16/01/2015 09:22 a sweet suet pudding made with apples, dried Recipes. It contains three sandwich cakes and cherries and apricot jam. The first recipe an orange cake that is in essence the classic to appear in print for ‘Victoria Sandwiches’ Victoria cake recipe we use today. was in Mrs Beeton’s Book of Household Surprisingly, neither Victoria sponge Management, . Her recipe is based on nor sandwich are name-checked in any four eggs with their weight in ‘pounded sugar, WI publication until . As butter and butter and flour’. meat finally came off the ration books in The mixture contained no raising agent but the summer of , the nation faced a is beaten for minutes to add air before it is new worry. Many women, drafted to work cooked in a Yorkshire pudding tin. The cake is in factories in support of the war effort, then split, spread with ‘nice preserve’ and cut had lost the skills that their mothers and into long ‘finger pieces’. grandmothers took for granted. Years of Baking had been transformed by the arrival restrictions on ingredients such as fat, flour, of refined white flour and sugar, along with eggs and butter meant basic recipes such as the invention of baking powder in the s. crumble, batters and cakes were no longer It allowed the making of rich, buttery cakes commonplace. with a fine crumb, ideal for serving with that The WI leapt to fill the gap. In , a other sign of luxury, leaf tea, made in a silver -page booklet entitled County Fare was pot and served in the finest bone china. handed out from the WI stand at The Ideal Victoria and her ladies-in-waiting enjoyed Home Exhibition with over recipes for this new meal as the perfect filler for the regional specialities, such as Guernsey Gache long gap between luncheon and dinner – and and Monmouth Pudding, alongside detailed afternoon tea parties became all the rage. leaflets on breadmaking and pastry skills. is protection of our culinary heritage has been one of the most vital functions of the WI The social side of meetings was very Mrs Beeton’s classic recipe for a Victoria important in the th Century for the sandwich once more appeared in print in members of the newly established WI. A Mrs the pages of The Constance Spry Cookbook Nugent Harris wrote in Home & Country in () and a year later a chocolate version that ‘members of an Institute get to appeared in Norfolk Federation’s know each other best when they meet for cookbook More Good Recipes. Finally, a year social intercourse’. In her view, the simplest later, the classic Standard Victoria Sandwich way to achieve that is with ‘the Institute tea’. makes its first appearance on page of The She reminds readers that ‘tea-time should Berkshire Federation Cookery Book. be the informal part of the meeting, when a WI members have been cooking it ever real neighbourly chat can be enjoyed’. since. As a competition cake, it is the ultimate As ingredients such as sugar, eggs and test for bakers – the simple ingredients and butter, restricted by war, began to come back method allow no hiding place for sloppy into the shops members started to bake and techniques or poor quality ingredients. It’s preserve once more, and also educate those also used to check how new ovens perform. whose domestic skills might be lacking. Detailed guidelines for making the Victoria Federation news of those early years sandwich for competition are set out in the includes details of ‘guessing the weight of the NFWI Education Committee’s handbook On cake’ and bottling and preserving fruit. with the Show: n This desire to educate and preserve May be baked in one or two tins n essential skills and traditions saw local No cooling rack marks on top or bottom federations produce their own cookery books surface n Do you know of an earlier in the inter-war years. These recorded all Traditional lling raspberry jam, example of the WI Victoria kinds of regional recipes and dishes. This sucient and evenly spread n protection of our culinary heritage has been Light sprinkling of caster sugar on top Sandwich? If you have a n seen as one of the most vital functions of the Pale golden colour, evenly baked published recipe dated before n WI. The celebrated food writer Elizabeth Texture ne, even 1957, please email wilife@ n David, in her English Bread and Yeast Flavour delicate, characteristic, nfwi.org.uk with the subject Cookery, acknowledged that ‘recipes have with no strong avour predominating line ‘Victoria Sandwich’, been preserved, recorded and published… A cup of tea and a slice of cake are just tweet @WILifeagazine owing to the initiative of the ladies of the as integral to the success of many WI using #VictoriaSandwich or Women’s Institute’. meetings today as in . Although Mrs Amongst the many recipes for cakes of Nugent Harris might be taken aback by write to: ‘Victoria Sandwich’, all styles that appear in WI publications are st Century WIs meeting in cocktail bars, WI Life, 104 New King’s countless variations on sponges. In , let alone sharing their baking successes or Road, London, SW6 4LY Yorkshire Federation proudly published the disasters on Facebook, a good cake is still th edition of its cookbook, Seven Hundred appreciated by members old and new. FEB/COOKERY Victoria Sandwich with coupon.indd 4 16/01/2015 09:23 VINTAGE RECIPES These recipes are from WI federation cookbooks. The original appears first, followed by an updated version. The first reference to Queen Victoria’s taste for sponge cake is in this recipe from Secrets of some Wiltshire Housewives, 1927. Gold and Silver cakes (These cakes are said to have been great favourites with Queen Victoria) Edwardian INGREDIENTS TO AKE THE SILVER CAKE Silver cake n 1/4lb butter 1 Beat the butter to a cream and add the n 1/4lb sugar. Then add the flour and whites of powdered sugar eggs in alternate spoonfuls. n 6oz finest 2 ix very well, add a teaspoonful of sifted flour essence of almonds, and some finely n whites of 5 powdered almonds. eggs, well beaten 3 Baking powder to be put in last. to a stiff froth TO AKE THE GOLD CAKE n large tsp Take the yolks of the 5 eggs, beat up baking powder thoroughly and make exactly the same as the silver cake, adding two (not one) teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Flavour with a glass of whisky, or add ½ teaspoonful of sal volatile. H Longden, ilton Modern Silver cake akes one 18cm round cake Prep 20 minutes Cook 30 minutes INGREDIENTS FOR BOTH CAKES Edwardian n 125g butter n 1 tsp baking powder n 125g caster sugar n 5 large egg whites Gold cake n ½ tsp almond essence n 2 tbsp ground almonds n 175g plain flour n 2–3 tbsp milk 1 Preheat the oven to 1800C/fan oven 1600C/gas mark 4. Cream the butter with the sugar until pale and light, then stir in the almond essence. 2 Sift the flour with the baking powder. Whisk the egg whites until holding peaks, then fold into the creamed mixture alternating with the flour, ground almonds and milk to give a soft-dropping consistency. 3 Spoon into a buttered and base-lined 18cm round sandwich cake tin.
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