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Hmong Ways of Life on Đồng Văn Karst Plateau, Vietnam

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Hmong Ways of Life on Đồng Văn Karst Plateau, Vietnam Belonging in the Karst Mountains: Hmong Ways of Life on Đồng Văn Karst Plateau, Vietnam Tran Hong Thu A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy Australian National University April 2021 © Copyright by Tran Hong Thu 2021 Statement of Originality This thesis is the original work of author. All sources used and assistance obtained have been acknowledged. Tran Hong Thu 26 April 2021 Department of Anthropology School of Culture, History and Language Australian National University ii Acknowledgements Among Vietnam’s 54 ethnic groups, the Hmong have been associated with several contradictory stereotypes. They have been celebrated as brave and loyal fighters, yet also are known for being rebellious. They have been portrayed as honest to a fault, even gullible, although also as clever and astute. Despite being known to be skillful and adaptive to different circumstances, they continue to be poor, and in the perception of outsiders, “backward”. These stereotypes and contradictions made the Hmong an interesting group to research for many anthropologists in Vietnam. Since I started working as a researcher at the Vietnam Institute of Anthropology (IA), the study of Hmong people has been my dream. It is through this thesis that my dream has become a reality. This, however, would not have been possible without the financial, academic and emotional support of several organizations and individuals. I would like to express my gratitude to the Australia Awards program of the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade (DFAT) for providing me with the financial grant to undertake PhD studies at the Australian National University —Australia’s leading university. I would also like to thank all the staff of the Australia Awards desk in Vietnam and the Sponsored Students Office at ANU for their administrative support and assistance. I am also grateful to the School of Culture, History and Language (CHL), College of Asia and the Pacific (CAP), ANU for the additional funds for my six-month extension. I am most indebted to my talented chair and primary supervisor, Emeritus Professor Philip Taylor for his unconditional support for my scholarship and program of studies. I thank him for his constructive criticism, patience and friendship. Philip is the best supervisor I have met in my career. He gave his best to guide me to think more broadly, and to be open-minded and up-to-date with social science theories. He pushed me to explore options for more clearly expressing the ideas of my thesis. He made me believe in myself, telling me that I have the ability to do a “good thesis”. His fantastic support and warm encouragement enabled me to overcome the hardship and stress that accompanied my PhD journey; especially in the circumstance of the CHL review which caused many talented supervisors in the college to lose heart and leave to become part of other academic institutions. I would also like to thank my iii other panel members: Professor Andrew McWilliam and Dr. Tô Xuân Phúc for their comments, feedback and editing on my proposal and thesis draft. Also, I thank Professor McWilliam for advising and assisting me in completing the necessary documents for my fieldwork. For facilitating my PhD fieldwork, I am grateful to the following organizations and individuals: Hà Giang Provincial People's Committee, Hà Giang Province’s Department of Ethnic Affairs, Mèo Vạc District People’s Committee, Quản Bạ District People’s Committee, Đồng Văn District People’s Committee, Pải Lủng Commune People’s Committee, the Management Board of Đồng Văn Plateau Global Geopark, and the leaders of Mã Pì Lèng village. The assistance provided by these offices and individuals made it possible for me to conduct my field research in Mã Pì Lèng village and Đồng Văn Karst Plateau Global Geopark. With deep gratitude, I would like to acknowledge all my Hmong interlocutors who have been involved in my study. They include Mr. Hùng Đình Quý from Hà Giang town, and Mr Ma Khái Sò and Mr Vàng Tài Phủ from Quản Bạ district who each spent several days sharing stories of their lives and who patiently explained the narratives of the Hmong culture. Mr. Giàng M. C. and his family hosted me during the time I was in Mã Pì Lèng village in Mèo Vạc. They not only provided me with shelter during my fieldtrip but also with the warmth and intimacy of a home. They allowed me to participate in and enjoy the life of the Hmong people. C. also helped me make a connection with other Hmong people in the village. He helped me translate my interviews from Hmong into Vietnamese and vice versa. Indeed, numerous Hmong people in Mã Pì Lèng village welcomed me to their homes and communities, and taught me Hmong language and Hmong culture. They allowed me to participate in their family rituals, events and daily activities. And more significantly, gave me an opportunity to learn, understand and interpret the Hmong experiences of life on the very high karst mountains. I appreciate the assistance and support of CHL staff: Jo Bushby and Etsuko Mason for making my PHD progress at CHL smooth. I would like to thank Karina Pelling and Kay Dancey at CartoGIS Services, ANU College of Asia and the Pacific, for their wonderful map designs found in this thesis. I am also grateful to Heather Morris and editors from Elite Editing for helping make my thesis more readable. I would like to express my gratitude to the following academics: Prof. Dr. Danny Wildemeersch, Prof. Dr. Jan Masschelein from Katholieke Universiteit Leuven (Belgium), iv Associate Prof. Dr Phạm Quang Hoan from IA and Associate Prof. Dr. Trần Tân Văn from Vietnam Institute of Geoscience and Mineral Resources for offering me a job in the “Integrated Capacity Building Through Research-based Geopark Development in North- East Vietnam” project (2007-2012). My involvement in the latter project is what sparked my initial interest in studying the life of the Hmong people in Đồng Văn Karst Plateau Global Geopark. At ANU, as a member of the “Anthropgrad” community I received academic support and warm encouragement from ANU anthropologists through the Anthro seminar series. I would like to express my appreciation to Anthropology Lecturers and PhD students who attended and provided constructive and valuable feedbacks and comments during my pre-fieldwork, mid- term and pre-submission seminars. I am also grateful to Emeritus Prof. David Marr, Dr. Sango Mahanty and Dr. Keith Barney for their encouragement during the stressful progress of my PhD journey. I thank my colleagues in my “writing group”: Teena Saulo, Holly Nguyễn, Võ Duy Thanh and Shengjin Xie for helping me improve my ideas and my writing. Gratitude also goes to Poonnatree Jiaviriyaboonya, Gita Nasution, Helen Abbot, Hoàng Anh Thư, Jodie-Lee Trembath, Kirsty Wissing, Dayne O’Meara, Vũ Xuân Ánh, Meizhen Wen, and Kelzang Tashi for their support and friendship. I would like to extend my gratitude to my colleagues in the Institute of Anthropology, Hanoi, for their warm support and encouragement, including Associate Prof. Dr. Nguyễn Ngọc Thanh, Associate Prof. Dr. Vương Xuân Tình, Associate Prof. Dr. Nguyễn Văn Minh, Dr. Trần Minh Hằng, Dr. Nguyễn Thị Tám, MA. Vũ Tuyết Lan, MA. Trần Thu Hiếu, Dr. Nguyễn Công Thảo, MA. Ngô Thị Chang, MA. Hồ Sỹ Lập, Dr. Phạm Quang Linh, Dr. Hoàng Phương Mai and Tạ Phúc Hải. I deeply thank MA. Trần Đức Tùng for his assistance in the conduct of my fieldwork and for his beautiful pictures. I am especially grateful to my older sister – ex classmate – ex colleague, Associate Prof. Dr. Trần Hồng Hạnh for her assistance on my scholarship application and her advice for my thesis. Last but not least, I am thankful for the love and support of my family: my parents, my brothers and sisters, my husband and especially my two sons: Đinh Nhật Duy and Đinh Nhật Linh, who have always been with me and who stood by me all throughout my PhD journey in Australia. v Abstract Research on the Hmong people in Southeast Asia offers contrasting views about their relationship to the mountain landscapes where so many Hmong people live. One view portrays the Hmong as finding self-realisation in mountain settings, which are deemed to provide them a secure refuge from lowland chaos; an ideal place for their distinctive economic pursuits; and a space of cultural and political autonomy. Another viewpoint sees the Hmong relationship with the mountains as being uncomfortable. They are portrayed as refugees, forced to leave their homeland in China, and ending up in remote highland realms in Vietnam, Laos and Thailand under the arbitrary rule of culturally alien lowland states. They have been marginalised, dislocated and reformed according to lowland criteria, and find solace only in millenarianism or conversion to new religions. This thesis contributes a new perspective to this discussion with a case study of Hmong people living on the Đồng Văn Karst Plateau in Hà Giang, Vietnam. Through the concept of belonging, the thesis uncovers the complex nature of the Hmong relationship to the limestone landscape, which is experienced, with ambivalence, as a place of security, awesome power, hardship, familiarity and accomplishment. In their stories, memories, beliefs and rites; through practices of migration, home-building and farming; and by collaborative effort, endurance and ingenuity, Hmong people establish a sense of belonging in the karst mountains. The findings of this thesis are based on 12 months of ethnographic fieldwork in Mèo Vạc district of Hà Giang Province. From my base in a village on a limestone mountain near the border with China, I observed and participated in Hmong villagers’ daily activities and rites; mapped the social landscape; and conducted informal and in-depth interviews with key interlocutors on their beliefs and customs and narratives of migration and history.
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