land of lakes, forests, fields and gen- tle landscapes with moderate hills concealing sleepy villages is a per- fect region for cyclists. The scenery is Introduction Avery diverse. It includes numerous, narrow roads lined with old trees. Riding through Warmia and Mazury by bike green, shaded tunnels is a real pleasure, es- pecially that long and steep stretches are usually rather rare. Off-season there are few tourists in this region but in high season the place becomes quite crowded. Amateur cyclists have a wide choice of hundreds of kilometers of bicycle trails, not only around popular health resorts, but also in the less popular calm corners of Warmia and Mazury. Everywhere there is something worth seeing – both natu- ral attractions and monuments. There are plenty of old buildings on the trails. Among some well-known constructions there are smaller, modest but still char­ ming buildings bearing witness to the rich history of the region. Visiting medi- Local roads, eval castles and temples of many religions and different epochs, investigat- photo GEP Chroszcz ing museums and old residences of the powerful Prussian nobility as well as exploring mysterious fortifications from the period of World Wars I and II – may constitute a perfect supplement for bike tours. The environment of the Warmia and Mazury regions is a splendid world of lakes, extensive woods, forests, mysterious swamps and peat bogs constitu­ ting a variety of habitats for many interesting animal species and rare plants. If you are lucky enough, you can see white storks, which nest in Warmia in great numbers, or the majestic silhouette of the sea eagle, or even hear the characteristic clangour of the cranes... You may find glacial boulders and other traces of glacier activity (including the main lakes) in fields and in forests. The majority of bicycle trails are not very difficult, so no special skills are required. Even unsurfaced roads such as forest paths are appropriate for ordinary bikes. Also, there are many trails running along asphalt roads. There is a choice of short hiking trails not longer than 20 km and day-long excur- sions up to 60 km long. Those who want to go on a few days’ expedition, may choose between several long-distance trails. This guide shows the most interesting and characteristic trails in every part of the region. Making the perfect choice is easy due to short descriptions of each trail and its attractions. Small maps are also helpful during the trip. However, it is advisable to have exact maps of a given region as well. Once the trail has been chosen, the bicycle checked and all the indispensable things packed – one can boldly set off!

1 • Elbląg – a harbour and a riverside city which once Following the Mennonites 36 R1 International Trail competed with Gdańsk. Although the settlement was The flat regions on the western side of Druzno Lake are named set up in the 1230s and gained urban rights as early as Route: Bągart – Święty Gaj – Stare Dolno – Nowe Dolno – Dzierzgonka the Vistula Lowlands. The name refers to a delta created by the – Wiśniewo – Krzewsk – Tropy Elbląskie – Raczki Elbląskie – Elbląg – Krasny in 1246, it was completely swept away as a result of war Vistula River running into the Baltic Sea. The swamps in the del- Las – Łęcze – Kadyny – Tolkmicko – Pogrodzie – Narusa – Frombork – Stępień operations in 1945. For many years after the war there ta were dried and managed by religious refugees from Holland. – Braniewo – Młoteczno – Gronowo; 85 km were merely empty squares with very few monuments Persecution in their homeland made a fraction of the Protestant rebuilt. It was only in the 80s that the restoration of Anabaptists, supporters of the religious reformer Mennon Sim- The trail is part of the R1 International Trail – running from the border with the old city began. However, the aim of the restoration mons, search for new, tolerant neighbours. Sixteenth-century Germany in Kostrzyn on the Oder to the border with Russia in Gronowo was not to create an exact reconstruction of the former Poland turned out to be a perfect place for them. Their knowl- edge concerning drainage and protection of areas of depression (675 km). It starts in the flat area of the Vistula Lowlands. Next, it runs buildings, rather just to preserve some of the features against floods, let the Mennonites cultivate a delta of the Vistula across the Elbląg Upland and then crosses the Warmia Lowland. On the of the previous city within the new tenement houses. river. There are still numerous relics of this interesting commu- way, one can see numerous monuments, such as Gothic churches in The outcome is quite interesting, and the new streets nity, including beautiful, arcaded houses with characteristic Elbląg and Frombork. There are also many natural attractions including with a number of shops, restaurants and cafes are really timber framing, cemeteries, and hydraulic engineering devices Druzno Lake, the bird wildlife reserve, and the beech forests in the Elbląg charming. Walking through the Old Town you should which can be found while wandering through the Lowlands Upland Landscape Park. visit the main Gothic monuments of Elbląg. along the Mennonites route. The trail runs entirely along asphalt roads with mainly little or very little Elbląg’s St. Nicholas Cathedral 2 prides itself Sanctuary in Święty Gaj, traffic (with some exceptions of medium and heavy traffic in Elbląg). in having one of the highest church towers in Poland (97 m). The Gothic three- photo J. Pruszyńska Level of difficulty: easy aisled hall was built of brick and its interior is decorated with many precious, Druzno Lake, medieval works of art, mostly brought from other local, historical churches. photo J. Pruszyńska Places to see along the route: Apart from the cathedral and churches in Elbląg there are the remains of the • Święty Gaj – according to The Life of St. Wojciech, a site of city walls and the 16th century Market Gate 3 . It is possible to go up the worship to the Prussian gods was located near the village in gate tower and look at the Old Town (ul. Stary Rynek) from the top. the early Middle Ages. Supposedly St. Wojciech entered the • Kadyny – a place beautifully situated at the foot of the Elbląg Upland by area of the ‘sacred grove’ and celebrated a Holy Mass there. the Vistula Lagoon. The village is known for its original, standardized build- Several days earlier the Prussians had ordered the missionar- ings and the former palace of the German emperor William II 4 . ies to leave the Prussian areas and then unexpectedly they The royal family took over the estate and its goods in 1898. In the following attacked the missionaries as they rested. St. Wojciech died years both the palace and the whole village were rebuilt and developed. a martyr’s death having been hit with a hatchet. In 1989 St. Nowadays, part of the residence – the former factory of majolica (fine-glazed Wojciech’s relics were brought from Gniezno to the local earthenware) and palatial annexes – has been turned into a hotel. There is church 1 and they have been stored there ever since. The also the huge Bażyński’s Oak 5 in Kadyny. The tree, at least 700-years church is of Gothic design dating back to 1399 and rebuilt old, was named after Jan Bażyński, the owner of Kadyny in the 15th century after the fire which broke out in the 19th century. and the leader of the Prussian Confederation opposing the Teutonic Knights. • Druzno Lake – between Nowe Dolno and Raczki • Frombork – raised above the town ashore the Vistula Lagoon, there is the Elbląskie the trail runs close to the wet banks of a large Cathedral Hill. Its flattened top is surrounded by defense walls with numerous St. Nicholas Cathedral in Elbląg, lake called Druzno. This extensive water area crossed by towers. The entrance runs across a wooden bridge over a dry moat and the photo D. Zaród the Elbląg Canal, is the habitat of many different bird spe- foundations of the former barbican, then straight through a large gate made cies. The wet banks are overgrown with extensive rushes of two cylindrical, interconnected towers. Inside the walls there is a splendid, and small, hard to reach, marshy forests. The lake is shal- vast Gothic cathedral 6 . This three-aisled hall building (all aisles of low and it is a perfect feeding place for many species of an equal height) was constructed between 1329–1388. It houses numerous waterfowl. A huge nature reserve comprises the whole of precious works of sacral art, both from the Middle Ages and the following the Druzno Lake together with a wide strip of land along epochs of the 17th and 18th century. Next to the cathedral, there is the former the banks – all of which amount to over 3,000 ha. Along the Baroque Palace of the Bishops of Warmia, which has been turned embankment surrounding the lake (the water-level is situ- into the Nicolaus Copernicus Museum 7 (ul. Katedralna 8; phone: ated higher than the areas nearby), there is the blue hiking +48 552440071; e-mail:[email protected]; www.frombork.art.pl). The trail, which occasionally criss-crosses the R1 bicycle trail. famous astronomer spent many years in Frombork as a canon. The interior of • Raczki Elbląskie –a small village close to the northern the Copernicus Tower is arranged so as to resemble the astronomer’s original bank of Druzno Lake. The trail runs close to the lowermost office. Other places on the Cathedral Hill are also connected with astronomy point in Poland which lies 1.8 m below sea level. and Copernicus’ discoveries. Since 1973, there has been a planetarium in the

2 3 octagon (part of the Nicolaus Copernicus Museum in From- bork; phone: +48 552440083). In the Radziejowski Tower, 36 lying just above the octagon, there is a Foucault pendulum The R64 Transboundary Bicycle Trail

showing the rotary movement of the Earth. The tower is Route: Nogat River – Batorowo – Nowe Batorowo – Nowakowo – Rubno Wielkie a perfect place to enjoy the panorama of the whole of the (a district in Elbląg) – Elbląg – Próchnik (a district in Elbląg) – Łęcze – Suchacz Cathedral Hill and Frombork vicinity. – Pęklewo – Kadyny – Lipnik – Tolkmicko – Chojnowo – Krzyżewo – Frombork The town itself is not quite as noteworthy. It is located at – Różaniec – Nowa Pasłęka – Ułowo – Braniewo; 95 km the foot of the Cathedral Hill. Some of the tenement houses set around the small market and the former 14th century The so-called Lagoon (‘Nadzalewowy’) Bicycle Trail runs just by the bank of the St Nicholas Parish Church 8 were rebuilt after Vistula Lagoon. Although the route was supposed to encircle the whole lagoon, battles which destroyed them in 1945. A bit further there is no trail signposting on the Russian part of the trail. On the Polish side on, at a crossroads running from the road towards of the border, the trail runs through the Pomorskie voivodeship, through the Braniewo, there is a group of buildings which were Vistula Spit and then through the flat areas of the Lowlands, where it crosses formerly the Holy Spirit Hospital 9 and St Anne’s the border of the Warmińsko-Mazurskie voivodeship. This part of the trail is Chapel founded in the Middle Ages. However, the particularly attractive, as it runs through the Lowlands and then towards the present form of the buildings comes mainly from the hills and forests of the Elbląg Upland. The last part of the trail crosses the Warmia 18th century. Nowadays, the buildings serve as the His- Lowland and runs towards the border of the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast. tory of Medicine Museum. What is worth seeing, Although the trail runs mainly along asphalt roads, there are breakstone apart from past treatment methods, is a very inter- and unsurfaced roads or paths on some stretches. esting gallery of sculpture and paintings as well as Level of difficulty: moderate, the distance between Łęcze and Frombork a splendid 15th century fresco in the hospital chapel. – very difficult. The polychromes present the Last Judgment (The His- tory of Medicine Museum, The Nicolaus Copernicus Places to see along the route: Museum department in Frombork, ul. Stara 3). • Nowakowo – a town by the Elbląg River located in an area • Braniewo – a town founded in 13th century by the called Nowakowska Island. It is surrounded by the Vistula bishops of Warmia at the Pasłęka River. It was almost Lagoon, the Nogat and the Elbląg Rivers as well as the Ciep- completely destroyed at the end of World War II. There licówka and Jagiellonian Canals. It is situated predominantly are a few notable monuments in the town. The Basilica in a depression below sea level. The island is protected by of St. Catherine 10 prides itself on its huge size. This embankments, and all the buildings in this area, which has majestic Gothic temple was erected between 1343–1442 been inhabited since the 17th century, are raised on special and rebuilt in the 1980s. Another monument is a 13th cen- artificial dwelling hills known as terps. tury Gothic gate tower 11, which is the only remaining • Elbląg – see p. 3. part of the Braniewo Bishops’ castle and the city’s forti- • Próchnik – several arcaded houses 15 typical to fications. There also used to be a famous school 12 in the region have been preserved in this village founded in the Braniewo – set up by the Jesuits in modern times. The 13th century. Constructions of this type have the first floor in The Cathedral Hill in Frombork, monks were brought to Braniewo in 1563 by Stanisław a forward position above the front of the house. The floor photo GEP Chroszcz Hozjusz, the Bishop of Warmia and a famous activist of the counter-ref- is usually supported by wooden beams just above a wide ormation. The vast edifice of the school called Collegium Hosianum was arcade. Typically, the floors have a framework and grid con- Nicolaus Copernicus Museum constructed in the 18th century. Later on it was partly rebuilt. The building struction. At present, there are two such wooden buildings in Frombork, 13 th th photo GEP Chroszcz of the Hospice of Converts dates back to 1719. It is known also as the from the turn of the 19 / 20 century and one dating back to the beginning of Cyclist on a trail, Potocki Palace from the name of its founder, the Bishop of Warmia Teodor the previous century preserved in Próchnik. There is also the Gothic Church photo iStockphoto.com Andrzej Potocki. of St. Anthony 16 in the village. Nowadays, Próchnik is a part of Elbląg. On the outskirts of the city (near the road to Nowa Pasłęka) there is a Ba- • Łęcze – a village founded in the 13th century and located in the picturesque Łęcze – arcaded house, fig. RS roque church called the Holy Cross Church 14 erected in the first part area of the Elbląg Upland border. The local fields overview the Vistula La- of the 18th century. Similarly, the equipment of the temple comes from the goon. You can also see 18th century arcaded houses 17 and a Baroque 18th century. The church replaced an older 17th century temple where a mi- church 18. The trail runs through forests to the north of the village and then raculous painting of the Holy Trinity had been worshipped. The painting was through deep gorges and stream valleys. transferred to the new church at a later time. • Kadyny – see p. 3.

4 5 The Elbląg Upland Landscape Park The most interesting parts of the Elbląg Upland, in terms of the landscape, have been protected since 1985 in the form of a landscaped ‘Obrazik’ Bicycle Trail 37 park taking up 13,000 ha. The Upland area is far higher than the surrounding Vistula and Warmia Lowlands. It descends gently to the southern and eastern sides. To the north and west (especially above the bank of the Vistula Lagoon) it creates a picturesque brink Route: Lidzbark (Welski) – ‘Obrazik’ Reserve – Lidzbark; 19.58 km intersected by deep gorges and stream valleys up to 60 m deep. In the vicinity of Suchacz, Kadyny and Elbląg Pheasantry, the land’s relief is so dynamic, with its steep slopes and distinct elevations, that it looks like mountains. On the other hand, the middle part of This short trail runs mainly through the areas of the Górzno-Lidzbark Land- the Upland is rather monotonous. The area there is slightly undulating. Surprisingly, in the middle of the Upland near Milejowo there scape Park. You will ride along forest paths, tracks and lanes by Lidzbark Lake is the highest hill in the region, which is called Góra Srebrna. It reaches 198 m above sea level. in peace and quiet – there is no automobile traffic here and other tourists Most of the park is overgrown by forests, mainly beeches and oaks are very rarely seen. (e.g. in Kadyny). In the ‘Kadyny Forest’ reserve there are old beech- The trail runs almost exclusively along forest roads, partly surfaced, while oak forest stands, whereas sea beechwoods are to be found mainly in its initial section takes the form of an urban promenade stretching along Lidz- the ‘Elbląg Upland Oaks’ reserve. The first reserve is easily accessible, provided you leave your bicycle in Kadyny (the park lies just next to bark Lake. Orientation on forest roads and paths may cause trouble at times. the town). The second one borders the forest paths of bicycle trails Level of difficulty: easy to moderate. running from Kadyny to Pagórki. Places to see along the route: Picturesque landscape of the region, photo GEP Chroszcz • Lidzbark Lake – an elongated ribbon lake covering 121 hectares. With a length of 3.5 kilometres, it is less than 500 m wide at its widest point. The first section of the trail runs by the southern shore of the lake. Its eastern end, with Święty Kamień (The Sacred Stone) partially developed embankments, is situated next to Lidzbark, where a con- Nature of the region, Between Tolkmicko and Frombork there is a place where the high, afforested border of the Elbląg Upland reaches the bank of the Vistula photo GEP Chroszcz Lagoon. This is where a huge 2 m high erratic boulder emerges from the water. It is 13 m in circumference and it lies about 30 m away from the venient promenade and a small beach can be found. The reservoir is rich in fish, bank. Sometimes, when the water level in the Lagoon is low enough, it is possible to make it to the stone unscathed. There is a small hole in the and you may observe various species of water birds on its surface, such as great- stone, which is believed to have served the pagan Prussian priests as a sacrificial altar. Sacrifices were supposed to guarantee the abundance of crested grebes, golden eyes, mergansers, coots and mallards. fish catch in the Lagoon. That is why the stone, which had served as an altar in the past, is called the Sacred Stone (Święty Kamień). • ‘Klonowo’ Reserve – a small forest reserve (almost Jar Brynicy (Brynica Ravine) To get to the stone, you must follow the trail from Tolkmicko up to the fork in the road just behind the Nowy Wiek forester’s lodge. There the 31 hectares) on the southern shore of Lidzbark Lake, near and Dąb Rzeczypospolitej trail goes up to the right, whereas the red ‘Copernicus Hiking Trail’ heads towards the stone. Several hundred meters further, you turn left the western end of the basin. Broad-leaved forest as well (the Republic’s Oak) onto a steep, descending forest path (it is better to get off the bike there). At the bottom, behind the railway track, you will reach the Lagoon as mixed forests dominated by pine trees and reaching up One of the most interesting parts of Górzno-Lidzbark Land- embankment, from where the nearby Święty Kamień can already be seen. to 30 m in height are under protection. Some stands are scape Park is the Brynica River valley. A small, clear stream flows deep within a varied, hilly, moraine land. A deep val- almost 200 years old. ley with side ravines overgrown with various stands of trees • Tolkmicko – a town and a harbour occupying a narrow strip of the flat • ‘Obrazik’ Reserve – covers over 66 hectares of forests is partially protected as ‘Jar Brynicy’ Reserve. West from land of Old Prussian Coast, just between the edge of the Elbląg Upland and the and moors, including the small Zdręczno lake between Lidzbark, in the vicinity of the Red Trail, one can see the bank of the Vistula Lagoon (at the mouth of the Stradanka River). The history of Piaseczno Lake and the Obrazik settlement. The area is Green ‘Dąb Rzeczypospolitej’ Bicycle Trail leading to a large Tolkmicko dates back to the 13th century. Founded by the Teutonic Knights, it was a hilly, moraine upland. The water reservoir, located in reserve. At the edge of the reserve, on the southern side of one of the greatest ports in the Vistula Lagoon for several centuries, which was the hollow between the hills, is gradually becoming over- the valley, there is a magnificent tree, the ‘Republic’s Oak’ 22 (also known as the ‘Jagiełło’s Oak’), whose age partly due to silting of the water route leading to Elbląg. After being destroyed grown, as a result of which a natural transitional moor has has been estimated at as much as 500 years. in 1945, the significance of the town dropped. Recently, however, thanks to formed around it. The reserve is the perfect habitat for some successful investments in the region, Tolkmicko has become a popular large, timid birds – cranes. harbour for the berthing of yachts next to the still active fishing boats. At the main square, there is the Gothic 14th century Parish Church of St ‘Memorials’ Bicycle Trail 40 Jacob 19 . The church has only one tower, which is located in the western

façade just over the entry to the temple. It has a three-aisle interior with Route: Ełk – Mrozy Wielkie – Sordachy – Koziki – Giże – Brodowo – Laski Małe massive, brick columns which support the arcades between the aisles. Out – Sypitki – Makosieje – Łoje – Laski Wielkie – Sędki – Lega – Buczki – Szeligi – Ełk; of all the defense walls, only a 14th century tower 20 remains. 42.8 km • Chojnowo – a small village on the north-eastern periphery of the Elbląg Upland and one of the largest villages in this area until World War II. It's worth riding along A long loop in the Ełk area leads around the vast Selmęt Wielki Lake. Cyclists past the village buildings then diverting from the trail for a moment to see a number travel across large pine forests, meadows and fields used for agricultural of beautiful roadside shrines dating back to the 18th – 20th centuries 21. purposes as well as through small villages. Picturesque stretches of the route • Frombork – see. p. 3. lead right along the shores of the lake. On the trail there are remembrances Church of St Jacob in Tolkmicko, fig. RS • Braniewo – see. p. 4. of the recent history of the Ełk Lake District: no-longer-used Evangelical

6 7 cemeteries remaining after the displaced ramparts as well as bunkers from WW1 and WW2 – and some other relics, such German population, war cemeteries as Teutonic castles and religious monuments chiefly the pilgrimage church in from the period of both World Wars as Święta Lipka. Along the route, there are also some less-known objects, such well as examples of old rural buildings as roadside shrines or manors. from before 1945. The trail leads by various roads, however, asphalt roads prevail, with me- The trail leads mostly along rural back dium and low traffic. There are some short sections of breakstone or gravel roads (predominantly asphalt); some roads and even some field and forest paths. shorter fo­rest stretches lead along un- Level of difficulty: easy to moderate. surfaced paths and tracks. Level of difficulty: easy. Places to see along the route: • Giżycko – a town on the northern Places to see along the route: shore of Niegocin Lake was developed • Makosieje – a village located on in a strategically crucial location – at the the eastern edge of Selmęt Lake; there junction between the Mamry Lake com- is a comfortable descent to the water's plex and Niegocin. It was in 1340 that the edge, and the shore area at the end of Teutonic Knights erected their castle Along the trail, photo iStockphoto.com the village has been tidied up. Near the entrance of Sypitki village, there here 27 . Only one original residential is a military cemetery from the time of World War I 23 . Soldiers castle wing with a Renaissance gable has of the Russian and German armies are buried here, and the whole area is survived until today. Recently, several cleaned and maintained. In the woods between Sypitki and Makosieje vil- new buildings have been erected, with lages, an Evangelical cemetery established at the turn of the their shape harking back to the former century 24 can be found. It is also clean and orderly. castle buildings. There are plans to open • Laski Wielkie – the village is located directly on the northern shore of a luxury hotel, and organise a museum Selmęt Wielki Lake. In the forest at the eastern side of Laski, just ahead of exhibition in the renovated wing of the the entrance to the village, there is a historic, Evangelical cemetery, original castle. founded in the 19th century 25 and in use up until the 1980s. Many Next to the castle, an original swing tree species typical to the local cemetery have been preserved, among them, bridge 28 was built over the Łuczany some old cedars. The cemetery area is orderly, but numerous tombstones are Canal in 1889. The span of the bridge Swing bridge with Giżycko castle in ruins; family quarters have been isolated by metal fences. (100-tonnes) is pulled sideways in just 5 minutes thanks to a special manual in the background, • Szeligi – a popular holiday resort located on a glade surrounded by forests mechanism, and only one man is enough to operate it! West of the city cen- photo GEP Chroszcz covering the north-western shores of Selmęt Wielki Lake. You may use a pro- tre, on the inlet between Kisajno and Niegocin Lakes, the huge Fortress tected beach and water equipment can be rented, both are popular with Ełk Boyen 29 emerges (ul. Turystyczna 1, phone: +48 87 4288393, www.boyen. residents. In the forest, next to the trail west of the village, there is a historic gizycko.pl). Visitors can walk on the ramparts and visit the small museum. Evangelical cemetery from the early 20th century 26 , there are The construction began in 1844. Over a period of 11 years a fortress with six also sections dedicated to the army dating back to World War I, with graves bastions, earth embankments and numerous buildings was constructed. In A military cemetery of German soldiers who died in 1914. The cemetery is not easily accessible subsequent years, it was modernized several times and has survived up until in Makosieje, fig. RS and is densely overgrown with weeds and bushes. now. Despite the disastrous state of some parts, the fortress is a real treat for those interested in fortifications. • Ryn – a beautifully located town on a high bank above the northern end 39 Giżycko – Ryn – Święta Lipka Trail of the Ryn Lake and the small Ołów Lake on the opposite side. Passage be- Route: Giżycko – Wilkasy – Szczybały Giżyckie – Skop – Tros – Ryn – Knis – Salpik tween the two lakes was important for the Teutonic Knights; therefore a cas- – Nakomiady – Owczarnia – Kwiedzina – Gierłoż – Czerniki – Karolewo – Kętrzyn tle 30 was put up in this place in circa 1377. In subsequent centuries, the – Biedaszki – Pieckowo – Święta Lipka; 65 km castle’s shape was repeatedly changed through rebuilding and presently this four-wing building, dominating the other city buildings, houses a luxury hotel An interesting trail leading through the Land of the Great Masurian Lakes to (some rooms can be visited with a guide from May to August) – Mazurskie the border with Warmia. It passes through a varied landscape where you can Centrum Kongresowo-Wypoczynkowe (the Masurian Congress and Leisure find many interesting monuments and historical relics. They are objects of Centre ‘Zamek-Ryn’, pl. Wolności 2, phone: +48 87 4297009, e-mail: hotel@ military architecture such as: the fortifications of Giżycko’s Boyen Fortress, zamekryn.pl, www.zamekryn.pl).

8 9 • Nakomiady – a small village, probably founded by the Teutonic Knights in the Lair, Gierłoż, phone: +48 89 7524429, e-mail: kontakt@wolf- late fourteenth century, located some distance from tourist routes. It is assumed sschanze.pl, www.wolfsschanze.pl). that a small church was established here soon after setting up the village, although • Kętrzyn – a city founded by the Teutonic Order in 1357 and an independent parish existed only since the 16th century. The small temple, with its established next to a wooden watchtower transformed into tower added in 1932, was repeatedly rebuilt and, according to some legends had an a brick castle 34 over a period of time. Its central, quad- underground connection to the nearby Teutonic Knights' castle. The castle was cre- rilateral brick building has survived until today, rebuilt after ated at the turn of the 14th / 15th centuries. Today, a Baroque palace 31 built in the the devastation brought by World War II. Today it houses the 2nd half of the 17th century and substantially Wojciech Kętrzyński Museum (pl. Zamkowy 1, phone: +48 rebuilt in 1705 stands on the foundations of 89 7523282, e-mail: [email protected], www.muzeum. the castle. The residence, with a preserved ketrzyn.pl). On the western side of the old town it is worth park and some restored farm buildings, is visiting the magnificent Church of St. George 35. The in private hands now – visitors can enter brick temple with three naves was built in the Gothic style the park area (Nakomiady Palace, phone: in the 2nd half of the 14th century. It was given the features of +48 661255653, e-mail: palac@nakomiady. a defensive building. Two towers built according to the square pl, www.nakomiady.pl). plan were erected next to the temple's body and the entire • Owczarnia – this small village sur- church defence, incorporated into the city walls, became the rounded by forests, north of the Nakomiady walls' second most important part (after the castle). The church village, is known for its original Mazury interior is known for its original, late-Gothic crystal vault, built Museum 32 (Owczarnia 1/1, phone: +48 after a fire in 1500, you may also observe the substantial devia- 89 7522023, e-mail: owczarnia@owczarnia. tion of the presbytery axis from the aisles. com, www.owczarnia.com). You can see • Święta Lipka – located amidst the forests to the south- the interiors of a traditional Masurian hut west of Kętrzyn, a small village famous for its large, Baroque dating back to 19th and early 20th centuries, pilgrimage church. The church, named St. Mary’s Sanctu- and get acquainted with the culture, cus- ary 36 and dating back to the 14th century, is considered one toms and typical workings of a Masurian of the most valuable monuments of this style in Poland. The farm in a residential building previously in former chapel was destroyed during the Reformation, but in the service of the former estate. the 17th century, construction of the new chapel began, and the • Gierłoż – in the wet forests east of building was placed in the Jesuits' custody. In 1693 the construc- Kętrzyn, the trail leads to the remains of tion of a large basilica with Baroque façade and two towers was a large bunker complex from World War II completed. A courtyard surrounded by galleries with corner the ruins of Adolf Hitler's headquarters chapels was added later. The church interior impresses visitors with its rich 18th Kętrzyn castle courtyard, photo GEP Chroszcz named the ‘Wolf's Lair’ 33 (Ger. Wolf- century furnishings, supplemented by paintings. A great attraction is the organ, sschanze). The construction of bunkers be- whose baroque prospectus with mobile figures was created in 1721, while the original Sanctuary in Święta Lipka, gan in 1940, in view of the Führer's plan to instrument was replaced by a new organ with 40 ranks and 4,000 pipes in 1905. photo D. Zaród start a war with the USSR. In subsequent years, the headquarters grew in size and 39 the existing shelters were strengthened Nida Loop

in protection against the allied bombers' Route: Ruciane-Nida – Krzyże – Karwica – Wiartel – Ruciane-Nida; 46.90 km attack. In this way, a complex of more than 200 different buildings etc., occupying an A lovely trail for the forest lovers, leading through the backwoods of the Puszcza area of about 800 hectares, was created. Piska (Pisk Forest), crossing tiny glades and passing through a few small villages. There were three security zones there with The route takes a circular loop around Nidzkie Lake. In many places it reaches as far Interiors of the cooking stoves numerous anti-aircraft shelters, smaller bunkers, and regular buildings built for as the shore, so make sure you bring your swimsuit and take a break by the water factory in Nakomiady palace, various purposes, e.g.: power plants, waterworks, teleprinter centres, a heating during the tour. photo GEP Chroszcz plant, warehouses, barracks, etc. A railway line passed through the headquarters The trail has been marked out along asphalt and breakstone roads, as ‘Wolf’s Lair’ headquarters and there were two airports in the vicinity. The strongest bunkers – including well as forest paths. It is easy to orientate yourself on this trail especially the in Gierłoż, Hitler's ruined shelter – impress visitors with the thickness of their reinforced stretch from the vicinity of the Czapla watchtower to Ruciane-Nida, leading photo GEP Chroszcz concrete walls and ceilings of up to 8 m . The place is open to visitors (Wolf's by an asphalt road along forest thinnings.

10 11 Level of difficulty: easy. Mazurian environment charmed the poet, facilitated his writing and was reflected Places to see along the route: in his works, such as The Chronicles of Olsztyn series or Veit Stoss and Niobe poems. • Ruciane-Nida – a small town founded In 1980, the biographical Galczyński's Museum 38 was opened in the just after World War II, as a result of the Lodge (Pranie Forester's Lodge, phone: +48 87 4256248, e-mail: muzeumpranie@ merging of two settlements separated by neostrada.pl, www.lesniczowkapranie.art.pl). Numerous remembrances of the woods. Ruciane was still merely a glade poet have been collected, including the manuscripts of poems created during with a forester's lodge in the early 19th cen- his stay in the Lodge. In the summer, cultural events are organized there and tury but since 1884, when the railway was are often attended by celebrities from the world of culture. introduced to the area, it gradually evolved into a popular resort. The older Nida had existed as a pitch burners' settlement in the 38 16th century, but shortly before World War II Green Trail

only 150 inhabitants remained. Route: Górowo Iławeckie – Wojmiany – Czyprki – Gałajny – Żywkowo – Toprzyny The town has actually no monuments, – Sigajny – Parężki – Kamińsk – Paustry – Górowo Iławeckie; 34 km although you might like to visit the re- mains of the German fortifica- A bicycle trail running between Wzniesienia Górowskie tions 37 from the turn of the 19th / 20th (Górowo Hills) is the ideal option for those seeking rest centuries. It is very easy to spot bunkers in from busy, tourist routes. This agricultural land with small the form of towers with battlements, erect- villages, groves and forests unfolds the serenity and beauty ed next to the road bridge and rail bridge of the gentle landscape. Here, man can live in harmony with over the Nida Canal, as well as next to the nature, the symbol of which is Żywkowo, the European Guzianka lock. An original item of interest White Stork Centre, famous because it contains numerous is the cone enucleator built between nests of this beautiful bird. 1890 and 1892. The old part can be visited, The route leads almost exclusively along comfortable but only after obtaining the consent of asphalt roads, however, with almost no traffic. Maskuliński Forest Inspectorate, Ruciane- Level of difficulty: easy. Nida, ul. Rybacka 1, phone: +48 87 4241619 or +48 87 4231010. Places to see along the route: • Pranie Forester's Lodge – a quiet • Górowo Iławeckie – a town on the River Młynówka Along the Green Trail, Ruciane-Nida marina, place right on the shores of Nidzkie Lake, 6 km from Ruciane-Nida. It gained popu- which was founded in the Middle Ages and received city rights in 1335. Over photo iStockphoto.com photo GEP Chroszcz larity thanks to the outstanding poet, Konstanty Ildefons Gałczyński. He spent his the centuries, it has not gained any greater importance, although its history holidays in a scenically located, small, brick forester's lodge over a period of three has been intertwined with natural disasters or epidemics, often associated Gałczyński Museum at Pranie forester’s lodge, years starting from 1950, and even planned to settle in this beautiful Masurian region, with wars. Severe damage to the town was brought by the Napoleonic wars, photo GEP Chroszcz but did not manage to realize his dreams before dying in December 1953. The great when the extremely bloody Battle of Iława Pruska took place in 1807. Once again, the town was destroyed in the winter of 1945, during fights between Nidzkie Lake the Germans and the Red Army. The town soon became incorporated into Surrounded by extensive Pisz Forest, Nidzkie Lake is undoubtedly one of Poland and its German population was replaced with Poles and Ukrainians the most beautiful reservoirs around the Mazury Lake District. It covers who were resettled from south-eastern Poland under ‘Operation Vistula’. 1.8 thousand hectares. Reaching 23 km in length, and 200 m to 2 km in An oval urban layout of Górowo (including the market) is a reminder of the me- width, it is a classic example of a ribbon lake, located in a cavernous hollow th (reaching 23 m of depth) and carved by an ice sheet during the last glacia- dieval foundation. The Town Hall on the main square was rebuilt several times; a 17 tion. Typical of such lakes are also high, steep banks. The lake is even more century clock has been preserved on its tower. Next to the market there is a Gothic attractive due to its numerous bays, together with as many as 13 islands, church from the 14th century 39 ; however, once you look inside it, you may mostly located close to Nida. notice an iconostas by the recently deceased painter Jerzy Nowosielski. At present, Almost the entire Nidzkie Lake with an area of nearly 3,000 hectares is un- the temple serves as a Greek Catholic church. Out of its original decorations, a large der protection, as it constitutes the Nidzkie Lake Landscape Reserve. Due to Baroque painting on the ceiling, painted in 1660, has been preserved up to the the obligatory zone of silence, it is always quiet on the reservoir. present day. An original attraction of Górowo is the Gas Industry ­Museum 40 (ul. Wyszyńskiego 20, phone: +48 89 7611092). This facility occupies the buildings of Nidzkie Lake, photo GEP Chroszcz the former municipal gasworks dating back to 1908, which produced gas from pit coal.

12 13 • Żywkowo – a tiny village of a mere 30 inhabitants, with a tower. The interior has retained some items from the located just next to the border with Russia, famous for its previous church, including a Baroque altar and an organ white stork nesting place. During the breeding season, front, as well as numerous tombstones, including some there are more birds here than permanent residents. It from the 17th century. There are also many old tombstones is worthwhile getting off your bicycle and taking a walk in the church cemetery. Additionally, the village houses an along the short Educational Stork Path. In many places inn from 1795 43 which has been partially preserved you can see branches arranged in huge nests on special with original furniture. platforms, leaning against roof ridges or placed on the • Zwierzno – two beautiful arcaded houses 44 have top of electricity poles. There are about 50 stork nests in been preserved in this small village in Żuławy. The buildings Żywkowo, although not all of them are occupied every used to be typical rural constructions in the region. The first year. At the end of the breeding season there can be even house dates back to 1773, the second is a bit younger – from as much as 200 birds in the nests! This is probably the larg- the mid 19th century although, on the other hand, with in- est colony of this species in Poland. Most nests are situated terestingly decorated arcades. A school building is also in- within the area owned by the Polish Society for Bird teresting as it is located in a former community centre and One of Żywkowo inhabitants Protection 41 (PTOP Education Centre, Żywkowo 7, phone: +48 89 7618207, stylized in a way which makes it look like an arcaded house. – a white stork, e-mail: [email protected]), where a special viewing tower has been • Kępniewo – an old village in Żuławy region, probably found- photo GEP Chroszcz erected. Storks can also be spotted in many neighbouring villages, as well as ed in 1337. It used to be located on the Druzno Lake shore, which strolling among the meadows. was a much larger area in the Middle Ages than it is now. Since the end of the 16th century, the surrounding wetlands were drained and managed by the Dutch Mennonites 45 (see 36 The Elbląg Canal Trail box on p. 3), after whom the characteristic rural farmsteads, an Route: Elbląg – Rubno Wielkie (Elbląg's district) – Nowakowo – Kępa Rybacka arcaded house and the remains of the cemetery (with several – Bielnik II – Janowo – Adamowo – Wikrowo – Wiktorowo – Jegłownik – Gronowo renewed tombstones) have been preserved up until now. Elbląskie – Różany – Zwierzno – Kępniewo – Brudzędy – Stare Dolno – Święty Gaj • Święty Gaj – see p. 2. – Kwietniewo – Dymnik – Rychliki – Marwica Wielka – Jelonki – Jelenie Inclined • Kwietniewo – the village occupies the first range of Plane – Oleśnica Inclined Plane – Kąty Inclined Plane – Lepno – Kreki – Wielki Dwór higher hills over the Vistula Lowlands. The village's historic – Jarnołtowo – Bądki – Zalewo – Dobrzyki – Jerzwałd – Siemiany – Piotrkowo th – Starzykowo – Szymbark – Ząbrowo – Kamionka – Iława; 130 km Gothic church from the 14 century 46 bears testi- mony of the place's medieval origin. The church was built An excellent trail for a few days’ wandering through the land of the Elbląg of field stones and bricks; it has a wooden tower (with Canal. The trail allows you to see the most interesting canal parts, including an overhung cutwater) built on its western side in 1770. four inclined planes. It also leads through the former Mennonite settlements Inside there are two tombstones and an altar from the late in the Vistula Lagoon and the villages of Iława Lake District, with their nu- 17th century. The Kwietniewo neighbouring areas are well- merous historical churches, mansions and Teutonic Order known for their valuable archaeological finds from as long castles. The initial section runs mostly through farmland, ago as the Neolithic period (ca. 4500–1700 BC). but in the next section cyclists encounter numerous lakes, • Jelonki – it's worth visiting a Gothic church 47 dat- and can traverse vast forest areas. ing back to 1350–1375, standing among the village buildings The trail runs primarily along asphalt back-roads with with several arcaded houses. It is distinguished by a mas- little traffic, a few short sections of the roads are slightly sive, 19m high square tower with its curious detail – an busier. There are also stretches running along unsurfaced original 15th century door. Inside the temple you can see 18th century Baroque A church in Zwierzno, photo J. Pruszyńska roads, particularly in the forests around Jeziorak Lake and furnishings and a choir gallery decorated with rococo paintings. along the Elbląg Canal. • Jelenie Inclined Plane – the first plane of the Elbląg Canal, running Mennonite cemetery in Kępniewo, Level of difficulty: easy to moderate. alongside the trail route and established, just like the other three, at the turn photo J. Pruszyńska of the 1850s /1860s . The length of track on which the trolley, carrying ships Places to see along the route: and boats, moves is 433 m, and the whole structure covers a 22 m difference Gothic church tower in Kwietniewo, • Elbląg – See p. 3. in water levels in parts of the channel above and below the inclined plane. photo J. Pruszyńska • Jegłownik – a large village in Żuławy which boasts • Oleśnica Inclined Plane – situated among the fields around Krasin; several monuments. It is worth stopping at the church dating back to it enables crossing of the Elbląg Canal's largest level difference between A church in Jegłownik, photo J. Pruszyńska 1804 42 , built on the site of an older temple. It is a frame-structure building the upper and lower sections, equal to as much as 24 m. The length of the

14 15 19th century, windmills were a part of the local scenery, however The Elbląg Canal most of them were destroyed later. The windmill preserved in An extraordinary, technical monument and a beautiful, attractive 83.3 km waterway, connecting Lepno was built of brick and it originally had a wooden swivel Druzno and and Drwęckie Lakes near Ostróda. If you count all branches of the canal, the entire water- ways system is as long as 152 km. The canal design work was undertaken by a Prussian engineer Georg roof, out of which only fragments of vanes (sails) have survived. Jacob Steenke in 1837. Several professionals were allocated to assist him. The builders went on a few • Jarnołtowo – a precious monument of this small village business trips, especially to Belgium and the Netherlands in order to see how channels and locks are con- is a 14th century Gothic church 49 with a stepped structed there. However, the terrain of the planned waterway was not conducive to the use of locks, and gable and an original, free-standing bell tower adorned with it was only when travelling to the U.S.A. in 1850 that Steenke found a solution to avoid using unprofitable stepped gables as well. The only remains of the former prop- (in that particular case) locks. The solution was inclined planes, powered by flowing water, using dif- erty are parts of the park and the manor ruins 50 . ferences in the levels between particular channel sections. In 1860 four such constructions had already It should be noted that the famous philosopher Immanuel been completed, and in the years 1874–1881 the fifth ( ‘Całuny’) inclined plane was built. It replaced the chamber locks which had been used before, but, as opposed to the older ones, a much more efficient Kant used to work here as a teacher. water turbine was adopted instead of the water wheel drive. Apart from the inclined planes, some other • Bądki – an interesting, neo-Gothic main body of the man- hydro-technical equipment of the channel are locks and security gates as well as an embankment, along or house in Bądki 51 was erected in 1869. The manor has which the canal was lead across Karnice Lake, where the water level is 3 m lower than in the Elbląg Canal. several peaks with pinnacles and a large terrace; a historic park A cruise along the Elbląg Canal, extends around it. In the vicinity of the manor, farm buildings photo J. Pruszyńska and a group of same-style groom houses have been preserved. • Zalewo – this small town on Ewingi Lake was set up in 1305, plane's track is almost 480 m, thus it is next to a small Teutonic Knights' castle at the end of the 13th only slightly inferior in size to the largest century. The city was founded by settlers from Thuringia. To plane named Buczyniec. The peculiarity this day, no traces of the castle remain, but you can visit the of this device is a local road crossing the Church of St. John 52 dating back to circa 1351 with a tower railway track. It is sometimes necessary half a century older. The single-nave interior houses interest- for passing cars to wait until the platform ing gravestones from the early 17th century. Next to the church carrying the ship has passed. Another cu- stands a low, square tower and a small section of the defence riosity is a sluice with the Klepina stream walls – all that is left of the old Zalewo fortifications. flowing underneath. • Dobrzyki – a village partially situated on fenland between Ewingi Lake and • Kąty Inclined Plane – situated near the northern end of Jeziorak Lake. Dobrzyki was founded by the German settlers the village of the same name, a bit smaller as early as the 13th century. The area had long before been inhabited by the Prus- than the other inclined planes described in sians, as evidenced by two large, early medieval castles found in the area. The this guide. It is 404 m long, and the differ- village houses a Gothic church from before 1320 53 . A wooden tower ence in water levels between the upper and was built within the body of the temple in the 19th century. The church interior lower section of the canal is nearly 19 m. includes Baroque patrons' pews, galleries and an organ dating back to circa 1776. • Buczyniec Inclined Plane – even • Jerzwałd – a village by the Jeziorak Lake, especially well known to a multitude though the trail passes along the motor of young fans of a series of books about Pan Samochodzik's (Mr Automobile's) road through the forest a few hundred adventures. It was here that Zbigniew Nienacki (1929–1994), the books' author, meters from the plane, it's worth get- lived and worked. He was buried in the local cemetery. Each year Jerzwałd be- ting off the trail for a while in order to see comes a meeting place for the writer's fans. Additionally, the governing board of this almost 500 meters long construction the Iława Lake District and Dylewo Hills Landscape Park Complex with which is the longest of the canal's five a small botanical garden 54 are located here (Jerzwałd 62, phone: +48 89 Gothic church in Jarnołtowo, inclined planes. The difference between 7588527, e-mail: [email protected], parkikrajobrazowewarmiiimazur.pl). photo J. Pruszyńska the levels is 20.62 m. The inclined plane is • Szymbark – the village boasts about the impressive ruins of the Manor house in Bądki, hidden in the woods. You can visit a small Pomesanian chapter's castle 55 . Its construction started probably in photo J. Pruszyńska museum exposition (Memorial Exhibiton the 1370s. This huge building was the second largest castle of the Teutonic state th Zalewo Tower, Drwęckie Lake, Room of the Elbląg Canal, Buczyniec Inclined Plane, phone: +48 55 2487092), in its glory years, second only to Malbork. In the 17 century, the castle was photo J. Pruszyńska photo J. Pruszyńska dedicated to the history of the channel construction, and an engine room. transformed into a powerful Finckestein family residence; however, when the • Lepno – a small village in the Iława Lake District; one of the few places in the wave of Romanticism came at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, the family Windmill in Lepno, region where an original windmill 48 has been preserved, standing among reconstructed the castle to a ‘Gothic form’. The building fell into ruin in 1945, photo J. Pruszyńska fields, about one kilometre to the east, near the road from Kąty. By the end of the when it was plundered and destroyed by the Red Army. Still, there are walls with

16 17 towers, a gate tower, a bridge over the Around 43 km of the total distance is serviced by surfaced, primarily asphalt moat, and numerous farm buildings. The roads. However, these are routes with very light traffic, except for a short romantic castle remains photograph very stretch just beyond Samborowo (circa 1 km), constituting busy, national high- well – they even served Volker Schlön- way no. 16. The remaining part of the route goes along unsurfaced forest and dorff, a film director, while shooting the field roads and paths. An especially difficult stretch, in terms of orientation, scenes to The Ogre with John Malkovich. is between Stare Jabłonki and Szyldak. • Iława – a major city and a popular resort Level of difficulty: medium to difficult. of the Iława Lake District lying at the south- ern end of Jeziorak and Little Jeziorak Lakes. Places to see along the trail: The name is derived from the Prussian word • Ostróda – a city located by Drwęckie Ilis, meaning swamp or mud. The Teutonic Lake, with the Drwęca River flowing into Knights built a castle here in the early 14th it, was founded next to a castle built by the century, soon a town was built next to it. The Teutonic Knights. Initially it was a wood- town's medieval origin is expressed in the en watchtower, established circa 1270 at form of Church of the Transfigura- a place known as a pagan Prussian settle- tion 56 , built of brick between 1317–1325 ment. In 1329 the settlement around the in a Gothic style. The church, with decora- castle received town privileges. It's name tive gables, had an adjacent bell tower, and is derived from the settlers who arrived the whole church complex was incorpo- here from Osterode am Harz, the Harz rated within the city walls. The enormous Mountains in Germany. Ostróda consti- City Hall building 57 bears testimony tuted an important national movement of the town's prosperity at the turn of the centre of the Mazury region – it was here 19th / 20th centuries. The building was erected that Parson Gustaw Gizewiusz protected between 1910 and 1912 and restored in 1995. Polishness. Since the 19th century the town Apart from the old town, it is worth has also been a popular tourist centre visiting the Orthodox Church of and fulfils the same role today, after hav- St. John the Theologist 58 which ing been rebuilt from the devastation of occupies an original, former gasworks World War II. from 1899 and was handed over to the lo- Walking along the promenade next cal Ukrainian community in the 90s . An- to Drwęckie Lake, we encounter a Teutonic castle 61 standing amidst the Ostróda pier, other interesting site is a Neo-Gothic greenery on the north-western side of the Old Town. From the defense system photo J. Pruszyńska Railway Station 59 dating back to 1900, the original water towers of erected for the Ostróda commanders between 1349–1370, 3 out of 4 wings of the 19th century 60 – two near the train station and another two in other the main building have been preserved. A fire destroyed the fourth wing along parts of the city (in ul.1 Maja and ul. Wojska Polskiego). with the tower in 1788. There is a Cultural Centre and a Regional Mu- seum in the courtyard of the building (ul.Mickiewicza 22, phone: +48 89 64626602, [email protected]). The cas- The divided lake 36, 37 The Great Ostróda Loop tle was rebuilt after 1945 and is decorated with picturesque Just before Stare Jabłonki the trail leads along the embank- ment of the Ostróda-Olsztyn railway line. Down to the right, Route: Ostróda – Lubajny – Stare Jabłonki – Szyldak – Kraplewo – Brzydowo wooden galleries. Apart from the castle, it is worth seeing the waters of Szeląg Mały Lake can be observed. Before the – Smykowo – Turznica – Samborowo – Rogowo – Liwa – Ostróda; 68.4 km the Gothic Church of St. Dominic 62 from the early Remains of the castle in Szymbark, construction of the railway, the lake constituted merely photo J. Pruszyńska 15th century, in which Parson Gizewiusz preached his ser- th a southern bay of the long, ribbon-type Szeląg Lake which An excellent trail for a two-day trip. You can cover the whole distance in one day, but mons in the 19 century. Adjacent to the church, there is once stretched amidst Taborskie Forests over an area of Water tower in Iława, you may as well reach Kraplewo or Brzydowo on the first day – you can quickly return a part of the medieval city walls. Drawing attention on the almost 16 km. However, in 1873, the said railway line was photo J. Pruszyńska to Ostróda along a Yellow Trail from both towns. The next day, you can continue the square of the Millennium of the Polish State (Pl. Tysiąclecia opened, and a long and wide embankment split the reser- trip from one of the above-mentioned villages. Another possibility is to shorten the Państwa Polskiego) is a fountain from the year 2004, called voir into Szeląg Wielki (Great Szeląg) and Szeląg Mały (Small route by covering the first couple of kilometres to Stare Jabłonki or Samborowo by the Monument of European Unity 63 founded in Szeląg) Lakes. There are roads running along both sides of train. In the first case, it’s possible to skip an almost 11 km, not particularly interesting, 1907 as the Fountain of the Three Emperors who ruled the embankment; below 50 m navigable tunnel passes, con- necting the two lakes and forming part of the Ostróda Canal. section of the trail from Ostróda to Stare Jablonki; in the second – we would miss the German Empire since 1871. Another reminder of the 19 km of predominantly forest paths and roads around Drwęckie Lake. early twentieth century is the Bismarck Tower 64 .

18 19 This 10 m high building, made of stone, was dedicated to Chancellor Otto Places to see along the route: von Bismarck, who led the German unification of 1871. It was established as • Łukta – a communal village on the a first among many such buildings constructed in the region at that time. Łukta River (also called Łukcianka) in the • Szyldak – in the park on the northern side of the village situated on north-eastern part of the Iława Lake Dis- the busy national highway no. 7, there is a 19th century eclectic manor trict, well-known for its original, little Gothic house 65 . Its curious shape with two towers and a glass veranda is covered church. The Church, dedicated to St. with a mansard roof. In the park you can find the grave of the last pre-World Catherine 68 was reportedly in existence War II owner of the residence, General von Nebelschutz. Behind the palace as far back as 1279, although it is known that there is a vast farmland, now occupied by the village itself was founded in 1340, and a plant breeding centre. its name comes from the old Prussian word • Kraplewo a village by a small lake situ- lucte (rush). The church, which still exists, ated near the picturesque Dylewo Hills (a is a brick building dating back to around red bike trail starting at this point leads 1407. Its construction was supported by the to the Hills). When entering the village Grand Master of the Teutonic Order, Ulrich from the direction of Szyldak, there is von Jungingen, who also took part in its a manor house dating back to the consecration. A single-nave building was 2nd half of the 19th century 66 and renovated in the mid-nineteenth century. expanded at the beginning of the last cen- It has stepped peaks with pinnacles and tury. It once belonged to the Prussian von an interesting tower – its lower floors are Wien family and now it serves as a guest made of brick. A wooden tower covered house. Slightly further, on the opposite with an onion-shaped dome made of shin- side of the road there is a Methodist gles was added to the top of the structure Church 67 dating back to 1848, built in in 1816. Inside there is a late Renaissance a Neo-Gothic style with timber framing. In- altar and a commemorative plate from the side we will find items and furnishings typi- early 17th century. cal of the epoch, and some galleries. Next • ‘Ostoja Bobrów’ Reserve – the to the temple we can see an old wooden Pasłęka River in almost all its entirety forms bell tower constructed of poles. a nature reserve (beaver refuge), and is • Czarne (Black) Lake – a small lake protected as the main habitat of beavers in hidden among the forests on the northern shore of Drwęckie Lake. The trail Poland. The whole reserve covers an area of Manor house in Kraplewo, photo J. Pruszyńska runs along the banks of the reservoir consisting of a floral reserve of almost over 4,249 ha. In the area of Łukta village it 10 hectares. Shallow water, up to 6 m deep, houses the extremely rare Merlin's includes not only the river and a narrow strip grass, creating a belt, a couple of metres wide, along the shores of the lake. of land alongside, but also a wide, almost Besides this, there are many other protected species of aquatic plants here. 1 km stretch of forest on the eastern side of the river (between Pelnik and Gamerki) as well as the lakes of Isąg and Łęguty. The Church in Łukta Pasłęka River, near the Suwałki Region, was the last place in Poland inhabited by dedicated to St. Catherine, 36, 37 The Four Bridges Trail beavers after WWII. Those aquatic/marsh mammals first appeared in Pasłęka ac- photo J. Pruszyńska cidentally, as refugees from a farm; they belonged to the species from Canada, unlike Route: Łukta – Komorowo – Pelnik – Łęguty – Grazymy – Wynki – Łukta; 24.5 km Beaver, the European beavers from around the Black Hańcza River in the Suwalki region. photo iStockphoto.com A restful, back-road trip among woods and along the lake shores in the eastern Now, thanks to beaver protection in the reserve on the Pasłęka River, the beaver part of the Iława Lake District. Covering the trail loop, one crosses Pasłęk River population has rapidly increased and are now present in many parts of Poland. 4 times. The river is known as the most important beaver refuge in Poland. • Łęguty – a small village on the Łęguty lake upon the Pasłęka. Here you can see the Simple monuments in small sites on the way and the possibility to swim in now closed Evangelical church 69 of 1737–1738 and a surrounding cemetery. the lakes are a nice diversion for your trip. • Grazymy – a picturesquely situated tiny village with an imposing Neo-Ba- The trail leads mostly along non-asphalt roads, partly hardened and paved, roque palace from 1924 70 , currently occupied by the Home of Social Assist- partly unsurfaced. Only about 1.5 km of the trail is a very busy asphalt road ance. The walls of the basements of an older mansion built in the early 16th century from Łukta to Olsztyn through Pelnik village. were used during the construction. The trail behind the village leads to the forest Level of difficulty: easy. along a beautiful lane of lime trees, recognized in full as a natural monument.

20 21 • ‘Jezioro Orłowo Małe’ Reserve – near the trail be- hind the village of Orłowo, you can find Orłowo Małe Lake 37 Amber Trail among forests. Reed-covered shores and the silty bottom Route: Nidzica – Radomin – Orłowo – Likusy – Jabłonka – Wikno – Zimna Woda of a rather shallow (up to 2 m) reservoir is favoured by mud – Więckowo – Módłki – Bartoszki – Nidzica; 53 km turtles – very rare in our country. The animals sometimes leave the water on the south-western shore, where they The amber trail trekking route allows us to explore the vast forest called can bask in the sun. There is a viewing platform from where Puszcza Napiwodzko-Ramucka, extending up to Szczytno. Signs lead cyclists we can spot them. to the vicinity of some interesting natural reserves and the big Omulew Lake The reservoir, along with part of the surrounding forest, from which flows the Omulew River toward Narew as its tributary on the right is a natural fauna reserve (called “Jezioro Orłowo Małe”) co­ side. The trail also includes historical relics from various periods, the most vering 4.5 ha. Founded in 1958, it was the first place for the interesting of which are the monuments of Nidzica itself. protection of turtles in Poland. You can reach it by walking The route runs mostly on asphalt roads but also unsurfaced forest roads. down the marked trail from Orłowo through some pictur- Most sections of the route are very rarely frequented, and only a short section esque woodlands, moraine hills with numerous springs, runs on a busy road from Nidzica to Wielbark. and ponds scattered here and there. Level of difficulty: easy to moderate. • Omulew Lake – this large, H-shaped moraine lake is almost completely surrounded by woods, except for the Places to see along the route: north-western bank, along which stretch the villages of • Nidzica – the city is located near the former border between Prussia and Wikno, Jabłonka and Natać Wielka. The lake, of over 7 km Mazovia. Centuries ago, it housed the Prussian tribe of Sassen. In 1268 the and an average width of 1 km, is part of the trail along the Teutonic Knights erected a wooden and earth fort here which, with time, was Omulew River. changed into a stone castle. The town was built next to a religious stronghold, • ‘Koniuszanka II’ Reserve – right beside the trail and due to its frontier location it was often attacked during the many Polish- where Omulew disgorges itself into a lake and crosses Teutonic wars in the 15th and 16th centuries. In 1656 the Tartars, allied with Poland, invaded Nidzica. Battles and destruction swept through the village Łyna’s Sources during Napoleon's campaign in 1807 and during both world wars. In the woods near the village of Łyna, 3 km west of Orłowo, the Łyna River has its source. A testimony to the power and wealth of the Teutonic Order in the fron- Then it flows north through the entire province of Warmia and Masuria and joins the tier areas was a brick castle 71 . The fort was built on a hill between Pregel River in Russia. The Łyna River comes from the plenteous, clean springs located 1370 and 1407. Its view is now obscured by tall trees. The main gate to in the vast valley and numerous canyons shaded by a deciduous forest. An interesting phenomenon is a strongly marked backward erosion which causes constant shifting of the castle is located on the eastern side – first enter the courtyard in the the well-heads towards the watershed line up the valley. The springs and the surround- ward (part of the castle's defense) surrounded by a defensive wall with ing forest are protected as a nature reserve named after Prof. Roman Kobendza, and a low cylindrical tower in the corner. Over the ward stand some corner cover an area of 120 ha. towers erected on a square plan and a central tower with the gate to the Łyna River, photo GEP Chroszcz main castle. The entrance leads into the courtyard with wood-concrete galleries reconstructed after World War II. The castle rooms are used as the Koniuszanka River, extends a nature reserve with an area of 64.5 ha. It Brick castle in Nidzica, a hotel with a restaurant and a local cultural centre including a small covers a part of the old mixed forest with numerous trees (as many as 78), photo GEP Chroszcz Museum of the Land of Nidzica (Nidzicki Ośrodek Kultury, ul. Zam- including huge oaks and 200-year-old pines. The Koniuszanka River, kowa 2, phone: +48 89 6250370, email: nidzickiosrodekkultury@poczta. flowing through the reserve, is very clean and forms a short picturesque fm, www.nok.nidzica.pl). gorge between the moraine hills. The reserve is easily accessible with Below the castle hill stretches the old town, where most buildings were a hiking path of an instructive nature. A little further extends the remote destroyed in 1945. A neoclassical town hall from the 19th cen- Koniuszanka I Reserve with a rare phenomenon of suffosion (washing tury 72 and some tenement houses in the eastern frontage have survived to away of sediment grains by ground waters) within the sandy postglacial this day. Nearby stands St. Adalbert's Church from the 14th century 73, sandur. In the reserve, as a result of the phenomenon, the Napiwodzka rebuilt after 1914 in the neo-Renaissance style. Once, there were defensive Stream disappears under the ground then flows back up to the surface walls around the old town. Only two parts have survived to this day with 2 km distant from Koniuszanka. The river is a habitat for beavers and two 14th century towers. Once, the string of fortifications also included the rare birds called dippers, which like swift streams. The white stork lives so-called Klasztorek 74 (today it houses the State Archives), a Gothic in the surrounding wild forests. building with a remnant of a tower from the 14th century.

22 23 • Ostre Bardo – a small village in the vicinity of the Russian border. th 38 There is a late-Gothic church from the early 16 century 79 that Red Frontier Trail until 1945 (for almost its entire existence) served the Lutherans. It was Route: Sępopol – Liski – Judyty – Szczurkowo – Ostre Bardo – Stopki – Długa built with field stone and brick. It has an additional wooden tower to – Sępopol; 33 km the west. After the expulsion of the Germans, many Ukrainians from the area of the Bieszczady Mountains settled here. Today, the temple serves A short trip through smaller villages on the Sępopolska as a Greek Catholic church. Plain. Silent, forgotten villages with small churches and residences of the Prussian nobility are places rarely vis- 38 ited by tourists. Low traffic makes it possible to travel Red Trail through the area of Jeziorany smoothly all day through a quiet rural landscape. Route: Jeziorany – Kostrzewy – Krokowo – Lekity – Kalis – Ustnik – Wójtówko Almost the entire route goes along asphalt roads with – Jeziorany; 18 km very little traffic, and the 3.5 km stretch between Kolonia Skitno and Judyty runs on concrete slabs arranged along The trail makes a loop on the west side the route of a former railway line. of Jeziorany. It runs through the hilly Level of difficulty: easy. areas of the Olsztyn Lakeland, mainly among the fields and meadows, cross- Places t see along the route: ing only a small forest. Along the way • Sępopol – the city at the confluence of the Łyna and you will be expected to ride some Guber Rivers was formed in a place where once existed steep inclines. The route goes partly a fortified Prussian castle, later destroyed by the Teu- on asphalt motorways with low and tonic Knights. In 1351 some monks founded a town in medium traffic, but for around half of the bend of the Łyna River, using its natural defensive the distance you will need to take un- qualities. The town was soon surrounded by walls and surfaced roads. a moat connecting Łyna with Guber placing the town Level of difficulty: moderate. on an island. Trail among fields, In the bend of Łyna stands the Gothic Archangel Places to see along the route: photo iStockphoto.com Michael's Church 75 built between 1360 and 1400. • Jeziorany – a small town founded in 1338 by the bishops of Warmia, who Jeziorany – St Bartholomew’s church, Sunset during excursion, It has a high square tower built in the main nave of the had the castle erected. The result is a two-winged Gothic fortress from the fig. RS photo iStockphoto.com building and the interior is of a Gothic stellar vault. The furnishings are 14th century, surrounded by peripheral walls; a small ward was adjacent to the Baroque. Behind the church, you can see a former Gothic tower rebuilt into structure. In the 17th century, the bishops of Warmia ordered the construction a residential house and a short section of the city walls. of two new wings, turning the fortress into a Baroque mansion with Italian- • Liski – in the former court buildings 76 of the noble Lieskewang style gardens. The demise of the castle came in 1783, when the building was family (hence the name of the village), who resided in the area from 1425 struck by lightning; a disastrous fire destroyed the entire city on that occa- until the 18th century, there is now a large stud. For a long time during the sion. Shortly thereafter, on the foundations of the main western wing, a new post-war years it was the biggest stud in Poland, and the horses from Liski building, intended for local authorities, was erected. Today it houses the city had numerous sporting successes. council offices. Only the 3 m thick Gothic stone walls remain of the western • Judyty – in this small village stands an imposing 19th century palace ground floor, with cellars and remnants of the corner tower. of the von Kunheim family 77 , which was a place of large estates, In the main market square stands St. Bartholomew's Church 80 . including many surrounding villages, up until WWII. Most interesting are You can enter the temple through the gate of the Baroque bell tower, from the life-size bronze lions placed next to the palace, purchased in 1889 in the 18th century. Behind it, rising above, is the high tower of the church, built Paris during the great world exhibition. after 1345 with a 3-nave hall as its main body and a Gothic-style presbytery. • Szczurkowo – a village founded in the 14th century; in 1945 it was The interior of the temple, with a stellar firmament, boasts a recently reno- crossed by the boundary between Poland and the Kaliningrad Oblast, vated pipe organ from the 17th century. then belonging to USSR (now Russia). In the Polish part of the village a sub- • Ustnik – a small village on Ustnik Lake was once part of a vast estate stantially rebuilt manor house from the 19th century 78 remains. held in the hands of some powerful families from Prussia. At the beginning Ostre Bardo Szczurkowo is primarily known for one of the largest colonies of white of the 20th century the property was divided into two parts, therefore the – Greek Catholic church, fig. RS storks in the Warmia and Mazury. two neglected mansions 81 stand in close proximity.

24 25 Just behind the village extends a reserve called Ustnik, which includes is a beautiful palace, a former sum- Ustnik Lake and a wet pit, north of the basin, amounting to 32 ha in all. mer residence of the bishops of There is lush, rush vegetation and the reserve is a nesting place for many Warmia 87 . The Baroque building was species of water birds – despite the small size of the lake, 25 species make founded by Bishop Adam Grabowski, nests here and another 25 make a stop during their flight. 1741–46. It replaced an older mansion, • Wójtówko – a village on the Symsarna River, about 2 miles west of Jezio­ which already existed in the 15th cen- rany. There is a large farm 82 there with numerous buildings and a small tury as an administrative centre for the park containing a restored mansion from the early 20th century 83. bishops' wealth in this part of Warmia. Around it there is a park with beautiful old trees. The area around the tower can The Red Bike Trail be entered through a gate in the annexe. 38 The creation of the park was mainly driv- through the area of Dobre Miasto en by the next bishop of Warmia, a fa- mous poet called Ignacy Krasicki, who Route: Knopin – Glotowo – Nowa Wieś Mała – Praslity – Smolajny – Międzylesie – Barcikowo – Knopin; 34 km spent much of his time in Smolajny. Now, the carefully maintained palace and park The trail makes a loop around Dobre Miasto. Varied landscapes, green forests is the Agricultural School. and interesting views encourage calm and unhurried trekking. From there • Międzylesie – in the eastern part of we will reach the route along the yellow bike trail to Głotowo or Knopin, or the village, by the road from Dobre Mia­ Kalwaria Warmińska in Głotowo, the blue trail through the woods east of the city. sto to Jeziorany, a few hundred metres from the trail a Baroque pilgrimage Forest path, photo GEP Chroszcz The road leads almost exclusively through unsurfaced roads with only church 88 was built between 1752 and 1753. At that time large numbers of photo iStockphoto.com small parts of the ride taken on asphalt motorways. Warmia’s believers made their pilgrimage there, where at the beginning of Particular caution should be exercised in the section the 18th century the crucifix was insulted. above 0.5 km next to Smolajny, where the trail leads along national road No. 51. 39 Level of difficulty: moderate. Green trail ‘In the Orzysz Switzerland’ Route: Orzysz – Grądy – Danowo – Stoczki – Ublik – Cierzpięty – Matyszczyki Places to see along the route: – Zastrużne – Wężewo – Okartowo; 33 km • Głotowo – in the village stretching along by the valley of the Kwiela River you can see a large Baroque A picturesque hilly land, interspersed with small lakes and green forests brick church 84 built between 1722 and 1726. It re- was the reason why, in the late 19th century, the area in the north-west of placed an older and smaller church insufficient for the Orzysz was called ‘Szwajcaria Orzyska’ (Orzysz Switzerland). It is worth tak- numerous pilgrims who visited the place, as Głotowo ing the cycling trail. On the route there is some arable land; large sections has been a popular pilgrimage place since the 14thcen- run between forests and lake shores. The trail ends in Okartowo, close to tury. Due to frequent visits in the early 18th century it Orzysz, however, the only road connecting the village is the busy national was necessary to build a new temple (already men- highway no. 16. tioned). In the second half of the 19th century, Ka- The trail runs almost exclusively on unsurfaced roads with short sections lwaria Warmińska 85 was built in the wooded on asphalt roads or paved roads. valley to the east of the church. It resembled the to- Level of difficulty: moderate to difficult. pography of Jerusalem and its Stations of the Cross. The believers of the whole Diocese of Warmia partici- Places to see along the route: pated in the work. Then a complex of 14 chapels • Forest Lakes – in the forests to the north of Orzysz the trail goes close (Stations of the Cross) 86 was erected, along to a few smaller lakes – Kieplin (aka Kęplaste), Przylesie and Błękitne (aka with the Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes and the Chapel Łazduny). Leaving the trail for a moment and stepping down to their banks, of Prayer in Gethsemane. you can see some interesting aquatic vegetation. In many places along the • Smolajny – the village is divided into two broad mesotrophic (medium fertile) reservoirs the plants make what is called a pło. valleys with the meandering river Łyna. In the western It is a thick layer of floating aquatic plants, such as poisonous cowbane or part of the village, called the Smolajny-Estate, there mud shield fern, where the remnants of other plants are deposited. Reeds

26 27 grow over time, and then there may Places to see along the route: even be trees (mostly black alder). Pło is • Kotowo – just behind the village, the road and trail go down into the deep very tricky, as there is some water under valley of Łyna. Steep slopes are crossed by narrow ravines of small streams. the layer of vegetation. Sometimes parts Just above the bridge on the way, you will see a small concrete dam with break off and form floating islands. a hydroelectric power station 92. It was completed in 2010 and forms • Cierzpięty – a village at the south- a small bay on the Łyna River. ern end of Lake Buwełno, founded in • Morawa – before reaching the village, the road goes around the former the late 15th century. From the former landscape park from the western and southern side. The park surrounds estate remains the majority of grange a rundown 19th century manor house 93 . Behind the park, part of the structures 89 forming a quadrangle grange buildings of the local estate can be seen. of buildings together with a mansion • Stoczek Klasztorny – dominating over the buildings of a village found- from the second half of the 19th century. ed in the mid-14th century, there is a Baroque church. It is the major part of Near the village, in the forests between a ­monastery 94 which was built in place of a forest shrine erected in 1622 and the lakes Tyrkło and Buwełno, there are dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In 1639–41 Mikołaj Szyszkowski, the bishop of Warmia, some remains of shelters and founded a church in the form of a dome covered with a large rotunda. Inside there fortifications 90 of the Giżycko is a copy of the painting of the Virgin Mary, called the Mother of Peace, imported Shelter remains in Cierzpięty, Field Position Fortification from WWI. On the opposite, north-western side of from Rome from Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica. A few years later the temple was photo GEP Chroszcz Cierzpięty, is a large nature reserve called ‘Nietlickie Bagno’. Huge wetlands settled by the Bernardines. At the beginning of the 18th century an extended pres- have been partially drained, but are still an excellent habitat for many rare bytery, church tower and galleries, surrounding the entire foundation with the species of animals, including numerous birds like cranes, European eagles dome corner chapels, were built. The interior retains some valuable features of and lesser spotted eagles. Beavers and moose also live there. late Baroque, and the whole monastery is currently under the care of the Marians. Trail in Stoczek Klasztorny, • Okartowo – a small village on both sides of the isthmus connecting There is a small museum chamber, dedicated to Primate Stefan Wyszyński, impris- photo GEP Chroszcz Śniardwy Lake with Tyrkło Lake. Over the strait, linking the two reservoirs, oned there by the Stalinist authorities in the period 1953–54 (Zgromadzenie Księży there is a rail bridge and a road bridge. In the part of the village on the Marianów [Congregation of the Marian Fathers], Stoczek Klasztorny 30, phone: +48 On a bike among forests, photo iStockphoto.com western side of the channel, there is a church 91 from the late 18th cen- 89 7660911, email: [email protected], www.stoczek.pl). tury built in place of an older temple from circa 1500. Its current shape is largely a result of reconstruction after the ravages of WWI. Its interior – the 37 ceiling and galleries – are decorated with beautiful murals, painted during Green Trail

the reconstruction of the church. In the village there are also the ruins of Route: Grunwald – Stębark – Mielno – Królikowo – Olsztynek – Mańki – Pęglity bunkers from WWI and WWII. – Łajsy; 39 km

A long journey from the battlefield in 38 Blue Trail Grunwald lets us reach unfrequented through the area of Lidzbark Warmiński areas, and the railway line of Ostróda – Olsztyn. The trail leads through small Route: Lidzbark Warmiński – Koniewo – Budniki – Kotowo – Morawa – Napraty – Stoczek – Klasztorny – Kierwiny – Sarnowo – Lidzbark Warmiński; 32 km villages, but in the middle of the route you can stay in Olsztynek and continue An interesting loop of the trail leads through the gentle countryside north- your journey through large forests be- east of Lidzbark Warmiński. Besides the monuments of the town itself, the fore reaching your destination. biggest attraction is the beautiful post-Bernardine church and monastery in The route runs mostly on asphalt Stoczek Klasztorny. The trail traverses vast farmlands. There are only small roads with medium or low traffic, and villages on the route. The initial section runs along the valley of Łyna, then some shorter sections of hardened some slightly undulating plains of the Sępopolska Lowland. roads or forest tracks. Sometimes, you The route is mainly on asphalt motorways (more than half of the length may have some orientation problems, of the route), and other hardened roads, including concrete slab. The traffic is especially on the section between minimal except for short sections at the exit and entrance to Lidzbark Warmiński. Mańki and Pęglity. Level of difficulty: easy. Level of difficulty: easy to moderate.

28 29 Places to see along the route: This modest building has been made more attractive thanks to a wooden • Grunwald battlefield – a gently curved agricultural land be- tower with an upper floor (overhanging floor), topped with a tented roof tween the villages of Grunwald, Stębark and Łodwigowo. On 15 July 1410 of shingle. Inside, parts of the Baroque furnishings have been preserved. it became a battleground for the forces of the Polish-Lithuanian-Russian armies of King Jogaila (Jagiełło) and Teutonic troops led by Grand Master 40 Ulrich von Jungingen. On the 550th anniversary of the battle, 1960, the Green trail through Stare Juchy commune Victory Monument of Grunwald 95 was placed near the road from Route: Stare Juchy – Zawady Ełckie – Gorłówko – Stare Juchy; 15 km Grunwald to Stębark. It consists of a stone obelisk with relief faces of the knights and 30 m masts with metal banners symbolizing the knights' flags An excellent trail for a short, quiet but scenic tour around the Ełk of the allied armies. Do not miss the small Museum of the Battle of Lakeland. On the trail, there are two lakes, several small forests Grunwald 96 (Stębark 1, phone: +48 89 6472227, email: grunwald@ and a small, sleepy town. muzeum.olsztyn.pl, grunwald.warmia.mazury.pl; the museum is open The trail runs along asphalt roads and paved road with very only from May to September). little traffic. On the battlefield to the south-west of the monument you can see the Level of difficulty: easy. foundations of a Gothic chapel 97 built in 1411 by the Teutonic Knights. Among the ruins of the chapel and the monument there is a stone Places to see along the route: indicating the spot of the alleged death of the Great Master; a little farther • Stare Juchy – in the village there is a church from the away from the monument (to the south-east) rises the 16th century 104 , in which the facilities include a Renaissance Jagiełło Mound 98 , the most likely position of com- altar and pulpit from the late 16th century and an organ from 1772. mand of the Polish king in the first phase of the battle. About half a km east of the village is the yellow walking trail; you • Olsztynek – a town at the crossroads of some impor- can use it to get to the great erratic boulder 105 . The huge tant trade routes, founded in 1359 next to the Teutonic stone in the Middle Ages reportedly served as a sacrificial altar of castle 99 and erected eight years earlier. Two modi- the pagan Yotvingians. Blood (called ‘jucha’ by the Yotvingians) fied wings of this fort remain to this day and currently running down from the slaughtered animals was the source of house a school. Next there is a former Gothic church the town's name [Stare Juchy means ‘old blood’]. from the 14th century 100 , now a showroom of the • Łaśmiady Lake – less than a km from Stare Juchy the trail Museum of Folk Architecture. Behind the temple, added and the road to Zawada Ełcka go lead towards the bay which to the preserved segment of city walls, there is a Gothic constitutes the western edge of the large Łaśmiady Lake. house, the birthplace of Krzysztof Celestyn Mrongow- The bay is sometimes referred to separately as Ułówki Lake. iusz, a well-known 19th century linguist, philosopher and Łaśmiady is one of the largest reservoirs of the Ełk Lakeland, preacher meritorious for his studies on the Kashubia re- with an area of 1,060 ha. It combines the features of a kettle gion. In the Gothic house there is an exhibition dedicated landform lake and finger lake, reaching a significant depth to Mrongowiusz, and a branch of the Museum of Folk of almost 44 m. Over the water, it is usually calm. The lake is Architecture 101 . included in the silent zone. The main attraction of Olsztynek is an open-air Ethnographic Museum 102 (Muzeum Budownictwa 40 Ludowego – Park Etnograficzny, ul. Leśna 23, phone: +48 Yellow trail Gołdap – Popioły 89 5191542, email: [email protected], muz- Route: Gołdap – Jabłońskie – Włosty – Juchnajcie – Sokoły – Rożyńsk Mały On a trail, eumolsztynek.com.pl; open from 15 April to October). – Ziemiany – Skaliszkiejmy – Klewiny – Kruki – Żabin – Rapa – Mieduniszki Wielkie photo GEP Chroszcz It lies on the north side of the town in an area of 96 ha. – Skaliszki – Wydutki – Popioły; 60 km The museum contains numerous artefacts of rural archi- Sunset by the lake, tecture from the whole region, both original buildings A long walking trail, also accessible to cyclists, links the areas of Gołdapia with the photo D. Zaród moved from various villages and copies of others. Among Land of Great Mazury Lakes. It leads through the areas rarely visited by tourists, The Grunwald battle monuments, them is the reconstruction of a wooden church from nearby Rychnów along the Polish-Russian border, through small villages and large forests. Along the photo J. Pruszyńska with recreated valuable murals. You should also see Amalang, a recently way, you can see some original attractions and enjoy the unspoiled countryside. Open-air Ethnographic Museum reconstructed early-medieval village of Prussia. The trail leads along various types of roads: asphalt, cobblestone, hardened in Olsztynek, • Mańki – in a village lying on the broad, mid-forest glade rises a stone and partially unsurfaced roads. photo D. Zaród church from the end of the 17th century 103 and expanded in 1770. Level of difficulty: moderate to difficult.

30 31 Places to see along the route: central projection; at the back – a large terrace supported • Gołdap – furthest to the north-east on Ionic columns. The building was neglected after WWII by lies a town originating only from the sec- the management of a state-owned farm (PGR). In 2004, fire ond half of the 16th century. The town, destroyed most of the roofs, and since then the abandoned as the only one in the region, has the building has rapidly decayed. status of a spa. Gołdap boasts one of • Skaliszki Forests – a vast and wild forest between the the largest markets in Masuria. In the vi- Gołdapa River to the south and east, and the Węgorapa River cinity of the great square is St. Mary's to the west and partly to the north. Pine forests predominate Church 106 . The late-Gothic church here, but mixed forests are also present. Together they cover from the 16th century has a high and 8,700 ha. Moose, wolves and lynxes live among the swamps massive tower crowned with Gothic and backwoods. Otters and beavers occupy the rivers. Avi- archivolt rooftops. The history of the fauna is represented by cranes, black storks, the predatory city and region can be learnt through European eagles and ospreys. The yellow trail passes through visits to the Museum of the Land of forests between Mieduniszki Wielkie and Popioły. Gołdap 107 (ul. Partyzantów 31, phone: • Brożajcki Canal – a water route flowing through +48 87 6150545, email: [email protected]), which Skaliszki Forests and connecting Węgorapa with Gołdapia. displays the collection of a local enthusiast, Mieczysław Ratasiewicz, whose The canal was dug in accordance with the design by John Bunker remains in Gołdap, photo GEP Chroszcz name is included in the name of the facility. The collections cover the follow- Suchodolec in 1733 and renovated a hundred years later. ing subjects: geological, ethnographic and military. An unusual attraction at Today it is only available to canoes. The muddy channel, populated by bea- Węgorapa River, Gołdap’s is the possibility to enter the 46 m high historic water tower vers, is very picturesque. In some places a deep trench cuts through the small photo GEP Chroszcz from 1905 108 (ul. Paderewskiego 35, phone: +48 87 6151515, email: info@ moraine hills. The trails follow the forest road along the southern part of the wieża-goldap.pl, www.wieza-goldap.pl; open from April to September). channel, and also past a destroyed sluice. • Piękna Góra [Beautiful Mountain] – south of Gołdapia extends a picturesque land of the Szeskie Hills. The largest hill near the town is Gołdap 39 Mountain, also known as Piękna Góra (277 m above sea level), which is lo- ‘Large Mrągowo Loop’ Trail cated about 4 km south of Gołdapia. The trail passes by its western foothills. Route: Mrągowo – Nikutowo – Wierzbowo – Żabieniec – Jakubowo – Nowy Probark A number of wind turbines can be seen around it; the summit is crowned with – Probark – Czerwonki – Tymnikowo – Mrągowo; 29,4 km a panoramic café with a rotating floor. Gołdap Mountain is not only an excel- lent vantage point, but above all, a winter sports resort. Five ski lifts were built A good route for a quiet bike ride, which allows you to explore Mrągowo on its slopes, including a chair lift (Piękna Góra inn and ski station, Rudziewicz, surroundings abundant in finger lakes. Konikowo 11, phone: +48 87 6154943, email: [email protected], www. The trail runs, with shorter sections, on asphalt roads. Most of its course goes zajazd-rudziewicz.pl.) along unsurfaced roads or roads hardened with break stone, paving stone or • Rapa – a small village about 30 miles west of Gołdapia and just 2 km south of concrete slabs. Roads with very little traffic predominate. Only in Probark you the border with the Russian Kaliningrad Oblast. By the road from Masurian Banie will need to cycle on the busy national highway no. 16 for about 300 m. there is the amazing Prussian tomb of the von Fahrenheid family 109 . Level of difficulty: moderate. It is not like any ordinary graves or shrines seen in local cemeteries, it is more like the Egyptian pyramids. The tomb is in the form of a high, almost 16 m, pyramid, Places to see along the route: built on a square plan with 10 m sides. The building was designed by a famous • Mrągowo – This district town boasts an extraordinary location, surround- sculptor and architect of Neoclassicism, a native Dane, Bertel Thorvaldsen. The ed by numerous lakes. The main part of Mrągowo stretches along the shores first to be buried there, in 1811, was the three-year-old daughter of Friedrich von of a finger lake (Czos Lake). Opposite the town, on the Four Winds Peninsula, Fahrenheid, the founder of this peculiar structure. lies a high moraine hill called the Mount of the Four Winds (180 m above sea • Mieduniszki Wielkie – a small town upon the Węgorapa River, 5 km west level). Mrągowo was set up next to a Teutonic castle built in the 14th century, of Rapa and just 3 km south of the border with Russia. In the 19th century, the of which no trace has remained until today. In the 15th century the village, village belonged to the von Farenheid family, the owners of Rapa and other vil- known as Ządzbork until 1947, gained urban rights with a typical urban set- Along field paths, photo iStockphoto.com lages. On the edge of the park remain the neglected ruins of a neo-Baroque ting and a market. palace 110, erected in the period 1920–22 by the then owners of Mieduniszki, In the centre of Mrągowo stand numerous old tenement houses 111 , the family of Schmidt von Altenstadt, in place of an older mansion which had mainly from the 19th century. In the centre of the market rises a Classicist burned down. The front of the palace had a triangular tympanum above the town hall 112 with a clock tower, now housing the Regional Museum

32 33 (Museum of Warmia and Masuria in Olsz- tyn, a division in Mrągowo, ul. Ratuszowa 5, The Gązwa Reserve phone: +48 89 7412812, email: mragowo@ In the heart of the Sorkwity Forests, which are crossed by the trail, there is a peat bog reserve (204 ha). It contains a vast peat bog, overgrown by a swampy forest with patches of raised bog. muzeum.olsztyn.pl, muzeum.olsztyn.pl/ There are parts of spruce forests, growing on peat, with numerous specimens of old trees. The muzeum-w-mragowie). Nearby stands characteristic bog vegetation is subject to protection, which includes peat-land, with black a one-storey house of half-timbered wall, crow-berry, marsh cranberry, ordinary bog, boggy blueberry and two interesting species of what was called the Bosnians Guard- insectivorous plants (sundews). house 113, with a small exhibition devot- ed to the German writer Ernest Wiechert. The trail runs mostly on unsurfaced roads or gravel and The main city temple is a large neo-Gothic ballast roads, although large sections run also on asphalt church of St. Adalbert's. roads. These are no routes of heavy traffic, except the national Do not miss the amphithea- highway no. 16 in Sorkwity (a few hundred metres). tre 114 at the north-eastern part of the Level of difficulty: moderate to difficult. prome­nade circling Czos Lake. It is here that the events known throughout Po- Places to see along the route: land, the Mrągowo Country Picnic and • Mrągowo – see. p. 33. Borderland Culture Festival, are held. The • Gieląd Lake – a large lake (444 ha) on the Mrągowo Lake- southern suburbs of Mrągowo have some- land; the trail goes almost around the entire basin. You can thing for the fans of military technology: stop at a small beach in Młynik. The lake reaches a depth of The Museum of Military Equip- 27 m and is crossed by the Krutynia canoe trail (its initial sec- ment 115 (ul. Przemysłowa 11C, phone: tion). Silence zone is in effect here. +48 502540381, email: info@muzuem. • Sorkwity – a large village situated on an isthmus be- mragowo.pl, www.muzeum.mragowo.pl). tween Gieląd and Lampackie Lakes connected by a small • Czos Lake – A finger lake (279 ha). river. The village was founded in 1379. Sorkwity, belonged Mrągowo's buildings are set on its north- to several families of the Prussian aristocracy for centuries. ern, north-eastern and western banks. The time of greatest splendour for the local estate was The lake consists of two branches: the ini- during the period of the von Mirbach family ownership tial part of the trail runs along the west- (1804–1921). ern shore of the larger western branch; The trail runs next to the historic Evangelical the last section of the route runs over the church 116 , built at the turn of the 16th / 17th centuries. A low banks of the eastern branch, and then whitewashed structure of a crude solid figure, with halls in- winds down towards the northern end of side, is enriched by semi-circular windows and a low tower of Mrągowo promenade, the basin. This part of the lake is the deepest with a depth of more than 42 m. a square plan. Inside there is a late-Renaissance altar, pulpit photo D. Zaród • Wągiel Lake – A small (176 hectare) lake with a varied coastline, much of and collator benches bearing the coats of arms of the village which is forested. Along the eastern shore runs the boundary of the Mazury owners. Czos Lake, Landscape Park. The biking trail leads its way through Wierzbowo to the settle- South of the biking trail, on a short section leading photo D. Zaród ment of Żabieniec along the north-eastern part of the basin. Although the lake along national road no. 16, extends a well-kept park by the is part of the gully which holds Czos Lake, it is shallow, reaching a maximum of shore of Lampackie Lake. There is a large Neo-Gothic about 13 m. In Wierzbowo there are some convenient places to access the water. palace 117 in the park. Built by the von Mirbach family in 1850–1856, it was modelled to represent the English style for buildings, Neo-Gothic palace in Sorkwity, 39 according to the then prevailing Prussian fashion. Great interiors with a rich fig. RS Sorkwity Forests Trail collection of valuable furniture and works of art were destroyed by fire in August 1914, just before the battle of Tannenberg. The new owner – baron Evangelical church in Sorkwity, Route: Mrągowo – Lasowiec – Gązwa – Stama – Młynik – Bałowo – Pustniki – Stary fig. RS Gieląd – Sorkwity – Bagienice Małe – Lasowiec – Mrągowo; 34,30 km Bernard von Paleske – rebuilt the palace which remained in the hands of his family until 1945. After the war the building served as the local state-owned Hiking down the trail enables you to both see some interesting sights and farm (PGR), and was later changed into a resort. Since 1998, the new owner enjoy the wildlife of the Sorkwity Forests between Sorkwity and Mrągowo. of the mansion has been active in its careful restoration and now it houses You can also relax by the large Gielądzkie Lake. a hotel and a restaurant.

34 35 Gronowo-Mamonowo Kretowiny Gołogóra Raj Nowa 519 Bramka Ględy O J E Z I E R U J. Ruda Żabi Róg P R Z Gady 0 10 km Pasłęka Gronowo S E S Pasłęka I Woda Wenecja 527 Pupki Różaniec A Bożęcin Pupki J. Mosąg Brąswałd Różnowo N 10 11 12 22 Klonowo Florczaki 530 13 14 Młoteczno Jachowo Piele Dwór Z E J. Głębokie E R Pisa Braniewo Żelazna Z I Ruś J. Morąg Jonkowo Łyna J. Wadąg 6 7 E Słonecznik Dywity Góra Głębock J Liksajny Komorowo Wołowno Zalew 8 9 507 O J. Długie 504 Stępnień Grzędowo 510 P J. Bartężek Łukta Wadąg Wiślany Zakrzewiec Banówka Frombork Pasłęka 68 54 Wyszkowo Jaśkowo J. Isąg Wrzesina 527 Wójtowo Narusa Lipowina J. Ukiel Szyleny 507 Krzekoty Lelkowo Boreczno Tarda J. Tabórz Pelnik OLSZTYN Tolkmicko Chojnowo 19 20 Bledkowo 530 Białczyn Rynowo Szeląg Wynki 531 J. Giłwa 21 Piotrowiec J. Karnickie Miłomłyn 16 Klebark 4 5 Kadyny Krzyżewo Łęguty Wielki Pęklewo Dorocin Tolkowiec Dębowiec J. Szeląg 7 Wielki 69 Gietrzwałd 53 Suchacz Pogrodzie Jędrychowo Wysoka Karnity Grazymy J. Klebarskie Płoskinia K I E 70 Naterki J. Pierzchalskie Braniewska W S see p. 20 Szczęsne Łęcze 17 18 22 Pluty A Łyna 503 Rychnowy 505 Łajsy I Ł Łajsy J. Linowskie Próchnik Pakosze 512 Sąpy Liwa Pęglity 504 Kurowo 506 J. Gil Stare 15 16 Łoźnik Wielki Lubajny J. Wulpińskie Nowe Braniewskie Pieniężno Rogowo OSTRÓDA Jabłonki Kaborno Batorowo Krasny Las Ogrodniki Różaniec Guzowy J. Sarąg Batorowo 61 62 Muchorowo J. Drwęckie Piec 51 Nowakowo Róbno Długobór 507 Radziejewo Wielkie Milejewo Stare 63 64 Kępa Siedlisko Wałsza Samborowo Mańki Stawiguda 598 Rybacka Bielnik II Kwietnik Młynary Glebisko Lechowo J. Ostrowin 103 Nowa Księżno Frednowy Lichtajny Ornowo T Y Wieś Janowo Pomorska Wilczęta Drwęca O L S Z Ń S K 509 J. Taftowo Henrykowo 16 I E Adamowo 7 Wieś 513 Brzydowo J. Ustrych ELBLĄG see p. 5 Chwalęcin Turznica Elgnówko 2 3 Gładysze Kraplewo Gryźliny Wikrowo Gierłoż 66 67 Pasłęka Bażyny Smykowo Zawady Chaberkowo Wiktorowo Raczki Borzynowo Słobity 509 65 Szyldak Pluski Przezmark Gromoty see p. 18 J. Łańskie 42 43 Elbląskie Orneta Butryny Jegłownik Osiek Dobry Opin Naprom Rychnowo Tropy J. Druzno Drwęczno Lipowo 7 Olsztynek Bogaczewo J. Pluszne Nowa 505 Łukszty Pietrzwałd 99 100 101 102 J. Gim 22 Gronowo Rożental 15 Kaletka 7 Godkowo Szczepankowo Elbląskie 513 507 Wiśniewo Królikowo Wąska Rodągi 528 542 Łutynowo Pasłęk Lubomino Grabowo Kiersztanowo Krzewsk Kanał Sałkowice Różany Elbląski Skowrony Lesiska Wapnik Dylewo Gierzwałd Kurki Markusy Glaznoty Pawłowo Wiśniewo 527 Byszwałd 58 44 Surowe J. Maróz Jelonki 526 J. Tonka Giętlewo Pacółtowo 537 Zwierzno Dzierzgonka Gudniki Głodówko Złotowo 47 Markowo Wąska Rogiedle Mielno Maróz 45 Nowe Dolno Miłakowo 537 Marwica Krasin Stębark J. Mielno Jabłonka Kępniewo Kwitajny 593 Lubawa Napromek Frygnowo Likusy Brudzędy Stare Dolno Zielonka Marwałd Złotna Strużyna J. Miłdzie Wilczkowo Jagodziny Grunwald Dymnik Rychliki Pasłęcka Pasłęka 95 96 Wikno J. Omulew 528 541 Witramowo Święty Gaj Ulnowo Łyna 46 Chojnik J. Wuksniki Tuszewo 97 98 Bągart 1 Kwietniewo see p. 2 Konradowo Mortęgi see p. 29 Jurki J. Dąbrowa Zimna Lepno 48 Włodowo Orłowo Sambród Łączno Ponary Zwiniarz Mała Dąbrówno Turowo Frąknowo Woda 527 Kuligi Osiekowo Januszkowo Świątki J. Dąbrowa Dobrzyń Kreki Boguchwały Rumian 7 545 Małdyty Morąg Grodziczno Wielka J. Kownatki 519 J. Narie Kalisty Gardyny Rączki Radomin I E Wielki Dwór Wilamowo Brzydowo Wądzyn S K 49 50 Szkotowo R Sadławki Jarnołtowo Jędrychówko Kretowiny Skolity Mroczenko 538 Rybno Nida O Raj Ruszkowo M 51 519 Bramka Ględy Bartoszki Więckowo O 530 Nowe Gołogóra 542 P Bądki Klonowo Rynek Grzybiny Wenecja 527 Żabi Róg Kawkowo Prusy Dziurdziewo NIDZICA Dwór Mroczno Łysakowo 52 Bożęcin Florczaki Szkotówka 71 72 604 Módłki J. Ruda J. Morąg Pupki Uzdowo 538 J. Ewingi Zalewo Kiełpiny 73 74 E Woda Słonecznik Ruś Wel Grabowo R Z Liksajny Komorowo Jonkowo Zagrzewo E J. Bartężek J. Długie Boleszyn 541 see p. 22 Dobrzyki I Łukta Koszelewy Sękowo 545 Z 68 Jastrząbki 53 E J. Isąg Wel Kanigowo J Śliwa Jaśkowo 7 527 Kozłowo 515 J. Tabórz Pelnik Zalesie Jeleń Turza Nida 520 Jerzwałd O Tarda Wrzesina P Boreczno Słup Wielka Wiłunie Janowiec 54 Rynowo 530 Wynki Klęczkowo Kamieniec J. Giława Turza Płośnica Niedanowo Bartki Kościelny J. Płaskie J. Karnickie Miłomłyn Szeląg Łęguty Mała Gietrzwałd Lidzbark Karnity J. Szeląg Grazymy 69 531 Rezerwat Sarnowo Jabłonowo-Maćkowięta 521 Siemiany E Wielki 70 J. Lidzbarskie Prioma Olbrachtowo K I see p. 20 Łajsy „Obrazik” Wielki Krokowo Susz S Liwa Łęck DZIAŁDOWO J. Jeziorak W 16 Pęglity Napierki Januszewo A J. Gil Stare 22 Klonowo 544 Ł Wielki Rogowo Lubajny see p. 7 Wysoka Purgałki I Sąpy OSTRÓDA Jabłonki Ulnowo Nowy Wkra Gródki J. Sarąg K J. Drwęckie 61 62 - Kolonia Dwór P Księży Czerwona Guzowy U 541 544 Brodowo Białuty 521 Piotrkowo 63 64 Bryńsk Samborowo O Dwór Piec J Woda Tynwałd J. Ostrowin 0 10 km Mańki A M J. Jeziorak Drwęca Dłutowo Niechłonin Narzym Szymbark W Dźwierznia N O Stare 55 Starzykowo 16 Brzydowo S Ząbrowo 66 67 Elgnówko R Petrykozy Turznica K Iłowo-Osada E Rudzienice Kraplewo Szyldak S I O Zalesie K Smykowo K Kisielice Gałdowo Gierłoż 65 Zawady E C I - I Gromoty see p. 18 W IŁAWA Dół E O Naprom Olsztynek A Z Osa Laseczno 56 57 58 Lipowo Rychnowo 7 M 536 J. Iławskie see p. 14 59 60 542 Królikowo

36 37 Bykowo Radosze 650 J. Rydzówka WĘGORZEWO Radziszewo Piławki R U 0 10 km Barciany Piele S S Kałwągi Stawki Małe Bezledy-Bagrationowsk I A Drogosze Wilkowo Srokowo Stręgiel Kiwajny Żywkowo N Ogródki J. Przystań 63 Gębałka Giębock Glitajny 590 Wielkie 41 Surwile J. Stręgiel Szczurkowo Równina Kuty 79 Ostre Korsze Parys Rodele J. Sileckie KRAINA J. Święcajty 510 Sigajny Toprzyny Piersele 78 Sągnity Pareżki Bardo Sarkajmy Saduny J. Mamry Stręgielek Jakunówko Gałajny Szczeciniak Lelkowo 51 Winda Tarławki J. Wilkus Olszynka Podławki Harsz J. Pozezdrze Czyprki Solno 77 Judyty Lipica Sztynort Kamińsk Żydowo Stopki Łankiejmy Duży Przerwanki Kwiatowo Kandyty Kiertyny Nowa Siniec Radzieje Pozezdrze Wojmiany Krasnowo Garbno Stara J. Dargin 511 Małe 512 Suśnik 592 Różanka Łabapa J. Gołdopiwo Wałsza Paustry Dzietrzychowo Różanka Dębowiec Barciszewo Długa Tołkiny Jeżewo Górowo Wiewiórki Mazany Pieczarki Jeziorowskie Liski Gnatowo WIELKICH Iławeckie 39 40 Łyna Babieniec Linkowo 591 Pilwa 63 Kruklanki 512 76 Lwowiec Pluty Zięby see p. 13 Borki BARTOSZYCE 75 Czerniki J. Dobskie Fuelda 512 Sępopol 590 KĘTRZYN Gierłoż Łoźnik Wojciechy see p. 24 Tolniki 33 J. Kisajno Świdry Spytkowo Klewno Biedaszki 34 35 Boćwinka Lubianka Małe Karolewo Doba Pierkunowo Antonowo Pieczonki Glądy Wajsnory Tolko Guber Reszel Żywki 511 Kinkajmy Wajsznoty Kwiedzina Kamionki Sątoczno Pieckowo GIŻYCKO Sulimy J. Kruklin Janikowo Pieszkowo Rodnowo Osieka Różyna Sławkowo Radziejowo Mnichowo 594 Martiany JEZIOR 27 28 29 Lusiny 36 32 92 51 Święta J. Dejguny J. Wydmińskie Lechowo Jagoty Budniki 593 Bezławki Pręgowo Owczarnia Grajewo Kotowo 592 J. Kławój Lipka Łabędnik 596 31 592 Wilkasy Sucholaski Morawa Krawczyki Kosy J. Dejnowa Wilkowo Salpik Miłkowo Koniewo Samławki Nakomiady Szczybały J. Niegocin Upałty 93 Galiny Leginy Giżyckie Miejska 513 Łyna Korsze Pilec Gronowo Jeziorko Ruda Siedliska Wola Runów Napraty Bajdyty J. Legińskie 591 Koczarki J. Guber Mingajny Knis Kleszczewo 57 Rydwągi MAZURSKICH Staświny Kaszuny Bugi Paluzy Łężany Budziska Szczepanki 94 Suśnik Krzyżany Skop Rydzewo Grzęda 590 J. Kiersztanowskie Tros Miłki 656 Szeląg Bobrownik Stoczek Wozławki Burszewo Boże Ryn Sarnowo Klasztorny Kiersztanowo Słabowo Kozin Paprotki LIDZBARK Warmiany 30 Rudówka Czyprki Wolnica 513 590 see p. 8 Wyszembork 63 Łaniewo WARMIŃSKI Wojkowo Pleśno Malinka Kierwiny J. Juno 642 Jagodne Opin Bieniewo Kiwity Bisztynek P O J E Z I E R Z Szestno 59 Rybical Prażmowo see p. 28 Zyndaki E J. Sałęt Ławki Marcinkowa J. Ublik Czarny Gązwa J. Ryńskie J. Jagodne Wielki Różyn 51 Bałowo Zalec Szymonka Wola Kierz 594 Surmówka Lubomino Mitogórze Kłębowo Polkajmy Stama MRĄGOWO J. Szymon Ublik Gronowo Piotraszewo Troszkowo J. Buwełno Jarandowo Pustniki Laowiec 111 112 113 Górkło Danowo Zagony J. Symsar Reszel Tymnikowo Użranki J. Tałtowsko 643 Cierzpięty Prosity Mołdyty J. Gielądzkie Młynik 114 115 Jora 507 Maków Unikowo Zasłużne 89 90 Stoczki J. Tonka Stary J. Czos Czerwonki 16 Smolajny Żegoty Mnichowo Bagienice Wielka Woźnice Matyszczyki 87 Kochanówka Franknowo Gieląd Bagienice J. Juksty Rogiedle Wągsty 16 Małe Faszcze Drozdowo J. Orzysz Praslity 593 Sorkwity 116 117 J. Tałty Grabówka Bzowiec Kominki see p. 34 Nikutowo Probark Tałty J. Tyrkło 593 Dobre J. Blanki Wójtowo Kolno J. Lampackie Nowy Baranowo Chmielewo Wężewo Orzysza Grądy Miasto Ustnik 81 82 83 J. Luterskie Kabiny Wierzbowo 16 J. Łuknajno Wilczkowo Wójtówko Kamionka Probark Tuchlin 91 Nowa Międzylesie J. Lampasz Krzywe Mikołajki Pasłęka Kalis 593 J. Legińskie Jakubowo Dziubiele Orzysz Wieś Mała 88 Jeziorany 596 Rozogi Zełwągi Okartowo 593 Prawdowo see p. 27 J. Sunia Knopin 80 J. Ławki Tejstymy Górowo Łężany Mojtyny J. Piłakno Grabowo Studzianka Lekity Stawek Wierzbiny Głotowo J. Stromek J. Krzywe see p. 33 Żabieniec Nowe Jesionowo J. Tejstymy 609 J. Mikołajskie Konradowo 84 85 86 R Ą G O W S K Gudy 530 Krokowo M I E Barcikowo Bęsia 590 Rybno 59 J. Gardyńskie Wierzba J. Śniardwy Gudynki Kostrzewy Dłużec Kalisty Świątki J. Limajno Frączki see p. 25 57 600 Piecki Kwik see p. 26 Iznota Popielno Nowe Czerwonka Szymanowo Grądy Kozłowo J. Białe 610 Bobrówko Cerkiewnik Włóki Lamkowo Stare J. Białoławki Różynka Włóki Węgój J. Bełdany Głodowo Skolity Bredynki J. Babięty Nawiady Cierzpięty Zdory P O J E Z I E R Wielkie J. Kocioł Dziękałówka Z E Tuławki BabantGant J. Warnołty Kronowo Wipsowo Gałkowo Niedźwiedzi 63 E Machary Prusinowo Onufryjewo Rostki Gołogóra Bukwałd J. Dadaj I E R Z J. Rańskie Krutyń Krutynia Róg 51 Łapka Biskupiec Z 601 Wygryny J. Seksty Łyna J E Jeleniewo Wejsuny Pilchy Pupki Różnowo Ramsowo O J. Nawiady J. Mokre Ukta Karwik Szczechy Barczewko Rukłaki P Sadowo Ładne Pole J. Jegocin Małe J. Roś Brąswałd Sorkwity Miętkie J. Krawino Babięta Jeglin Jonkowo Barczewo 58 Wojnowo Duży J. Wadąg Kromerowo J. Łęsk Zgon 58 Ruciane-Nida Maldanin Łupki Godki Dywity 16 Zabrodzie J. Zyzdrój 37 Pisa Maradki 58 Snopki Orłowo Wadąg Kaplityny J. Pisz Marksewo Wielki J. Zdrużno J. Skarp PISZ Kocioł J. Tumiańskie Kobułty 527 Rasząg J. Pierwój J. Marksoby Koczek Szeroki Duży Wrzesina Wójtowo J. Umlag J. Brzozolasek 58 Giedajty J. Ukiel Rozogi Pranie Bór Wiartel OLSZTYN Monkiny Piasutno 38 Jagodne Jedzbark Labuszewo Mały Stare J. Stromek J. Świętajno Spychowo Guty 16 Skajboty Leszno Szymki Klebark Rumy S K I E J. Wałpusz Jerutki J. Pogubie O W Borki Wielki G Świętajno J. Nidzkie Pisa Gietrzwałd Prejłowo Ą Rybno Świętajno Wielkie R Kolonia 59 Liski J. Klebarskie M Targowska Olszyny Naterki Sąpłaty 600 Karwica Łajsy Szczęsne Pajtuny Giławy Wola Pogubie Bogumiły Łyna J. Serwent Jeruty Rozoga Uściany Kumielsk J. Linowskie 57 Kałęczyn Płozy Jerutka Borki see p. 11 Średnie Pęglity Rozoskie Faryny Bartąg Purda Wawrochy 53 Turośl Filipki J. Wulpińskie Kaborno Dźwierzuty J. Rańskie Turowo Nowe Ciesina Pogubie Rybnica Małe J. Sarąg 53 Targowo Rańsk Kokoszki Anuszewo Muchorowo Marcinkowo Grzegrzółki Niedźwiedzie Czajki Tylne 51 Turośl 63 E Olszewki Występ Kowalik Hejdyk I Gawrzyjałki Kwiatuszki K Mańki Stawiguda 598 Wały Karpa Zdunowo S J. Kalwa Dąbrowa Miętkie Kilimany Wielkie A Nowa Jabłonka Jeże Pasym E L S Z T Y Ń Wieś J. Sasek J. Łęsk Wilamowo Rozogi Spaliny Małe I D O L S K Nowe Lipowiec Spaliny C K I E J. Kośno Wielki I E N O J. Leleskie 58 Klon Wielkie Z O W J. Ustrych Przykop Kiejkuty Orzeszki M A P Kopanki Tylkowo J. Gromskie 53 Gryźliny J. Łańskie Leleszki Trelkowo J. Marksoby Zawojki 0 10 km

38 39 Gołdap-Gusiew R U S S I A Błędzianka Żytkiejmy Mieduniszki Czarnowo Dąbrówka 106 107 108 J. Gołdap Wielkie Żabin Kruki Wielkie 651 110 GOŁDAP A Budwiecie Degucie 109 I N Y Rapa Skaliszkiejmy A A P Błąkały Skaliszki K R R Ołownik SZESKIE G O Dubeniki Kolniszki Ę J. Czarne Stańczyki Ściborki Juchnajcie W Budzewo Jabłońskie Sokoły Czarne Białe Więcki Ziemiany Włosty Wronki Kozaki Wydutki Jeziorki Ziemianki Wielkie Górne Budry Banie Rożyńsk Mazurskie Kaczorówko Mały WZGÓRZA J. Bitkowskie 650 Babki Popioły Surminy 650 see p. 31 Piławki Lisy Pogorzel Żelazki Radziszewo Małe Nasuty P Kierzki Główka Siedlisko O Dorsze D Gębałka Grodzisko Golubie 65 J. Stręgiel Zawady Dunajek Wężewskie L Kuty Kowale A Stręgielek Szeski Oleckie S J. Wilkus Jakunówko Jabłonowo Drozdowo K J. Pozezdrze J. Krzywa Czerwony Wężewo I Kuta Dwór Szarejki E Pozezdrze Monety Przerwanki Żabinka Zawady Lenarty Pilewki J. Piłwąg J. Szwałk Oleckie Kiliany J. Czarne J. Gołdopiwo Walisko Wielki Borawskie 63 Jeziorowskie J. Łaźno Cichy Stożne Dąbrowskie Kruklanki Zamoście Borki Golubki Możdżany Mazury Babki Spytkowo J. Litygajno Oleckie Gryzy Szczecinki J. Żywy Lipowo Rogajny Olszewo Pieczonki Boćwinka J. Łękuk Orłowo J. Długie Sedranki Raczki Żywy Duty Żywki Zalesie J. Romoły Wielkie Sulimy J. Kruklin J. Sołtmany J. Dobskie Szczybały 655 OLECKO Urbanki Sołtmany J. Gawlik Wronki Dobki Orłowskie Dunajek Krupin J. Wydmińskie P Wojnasy Pietrasze O Świętajno Rosochackie Upałty Czarnówka J 655 Markowskie Mazuchówka Kije E Sulejki Giże Ełk Wieliczki Siedliska Szczecinowo Z Wilkasy J. Niegocin I Olecko Wydminy E Zajdy Cimochy Kleszczewo J. Szóstak Gorłówko Dudki Małe E R J. Kukowina Sobole Ł Z Szeszki J. Wojnowo Gąski Lega Czyprki Wężówka C Zawady E Wierzbowo Miłki Stare K Ełckie J. Przytulskie Zatyki Dorsze J. Krzywe 661 Malinka Juchy I J. Łaśmiady E Przytuły Kijewo Puchówka Marcinowa J. Pamer 656 104 105 Marcinkowo Stare see p. 31 Piaski J. Zdrężno Iwaśki Wola J. Ublik Talki 65 Wielki Krzywe Malinówka Płociczno Milewo Golubie Zaborowo J. Białe Zelki Bałamutowo J. Haleckie Chełchy J. Buwełno Okrągłe Pańska Grabnik Miłuki Wola J. Dobrzyń Kalinowo 63 Woszczele Przykop Lega 16 Cierzpięty Krzyżewo Skomack Małkinie Golubka Skomętno Rogale Siedliska Sędki Pianki Wielki J. Selmęt Wielkie Chrzanowo Dudki J. Tyrkło J. Orzysz Wielki 25 Laski Wielkie J. Skomętno Różyńsk EŁK Szeligi Borzymy Orzysza 26 Sordachy Orzysz J. Druglin Buczki Strzelniki Duży J. Ełckie Koziki Łoje Romoty Stożne Wężewo J. Szarek 23 24 J. Rostki Mrozy Makosieje J. Białe Klusy Wielkie Stacze 16 Giże Sypitki Skrzypki J. Śniardwy Wierzbiny Malczewo Brodowo J. Lipińskie see p. 7 Laski Małe J. Krzywe J. Przepiórka 63 J. Kępno Mostołty Nowe Nowa Weś J. Stackie Gudy Żelazki Wiśniowo Gaudynki J. Zdedy Ełcka Ełckie Krzywe Gorzekały Bajtkowo Ełk Kopijki Bemowo Lipińskie Dąbrowskie J. Bałoławki Piskie Niekrasy 667 Małe J. Kocioł Dziękałówka Nitki Krzywińskie Pogorzel Miłusze Ostrykół Wielka Szczechy Rostki Taczki Małe Czyprki Prostki Zalesie E Święcek 65 I Pilchy Zydlągi Dybowo K J. Roś S Różyńsk Gorczyce A Myszki J. Dybowskie L Ruda Wielki D Łupki J. Skrodzkie Marchewki O Orłowo Dmusy P Kocioł Kruszewo PISZ J. Borowe Tarachy Duży Lisy Jagodne 0 10 km 58 Biała Piska Pisa Myśliki Skarżyn Rakowo N Stere Kożuchy Guty Piskie Włosty 63 Kukły Bełcząc 58 Łodygowo

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