Westshore Reef Surf Conditions

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Westshore Reef Surf Conditions WESTSHORE REEF SURF CONDITIONS Predicted effects from the proposed Whakarire Ave Breakwater April 2008 Suite 3, 17 Nobs Line, New Plymouth, New Zealand T: 64-6-7585035 E: [email protected] Whakarire Ave Breakwater - Surf Effects Status Version Date Status Approved By: RevA 15/11/2007 Draft for review Beamsley RevB 27/11/2007 Updated draft McComb RevC 12/03/2008 Updated draft McComb RevO 03/04/2008 Approved for release McComb It is the responsibility of the reader to verify the currency of the version number of this report. The information, including the intellectual property, contained in this report is confidential and proprietary to MetOcean Solutions Ltd. It may be used by the persons to whom it is provided for the stated purpose for which it is provided, and must not be imparted to any third person without the prior written approval of MetOcean Solutions Ltd. MetOcean Solutions Ltd reserves all legal rights and remedies in relation to any infringement of its rights in respect of its confidential information. © MetOcean Solutions Ltd 2008 MetOcean Solutions Ltd ii Whakarire Ave Breakwater - Surf Effects TABLE OF CONTENTS 1 INTRODCUTION ........................................................................................... 1 1.1 BACKGROUND ............................................................................................ 1 1.2 SCOPE AND STRUCTURE .............................................................................. 3 1.3 SUMMARY OF SURFING WAVE PARAMETERS ................................................. 4 1.3.1 Breaking wave height......................................................................... 4 1.3.2 Wave peel angle................................................................................. 4 1.3.3 Wave breaking intensity..................................................................... 5 1.3.4 Wave section length........................................................................... 5 1.3.5 Surfability.......................................................................................... 5 2 STUDY METHODS ........................................................................................ 7 2.1 BATHYMETRY SOURCES .............................................................................. 7 2.2 WAVE HINDCAST MODELLING ..................................................................... 8 2.2.1 Numerical model................................................................................ 8 2.2.2 Model domains................................................................................... 8 2.2.3 Boundary conditions .......................................................................... 9 2.2.4 Winds................................................................................................. 9 2.2.5 Model output...................................................................................... 9 2.3 NEARSHORE WAVE MODEL ....................................................................... 11 2.4 REFLECTIVITY .......................................................................................... 16 2.5 SURFABILITY ............................................................................................ 18 3 RESULTS ...................................................................................................... 19 3.1 WAVE HINDCAST VALIDATION ................................................................... 19 3.2 WAVE CLIMATE ........................................................................................ 22 3.2.1 Surfability........................................................................................ 26 3.3 EXISTING SURF BREAK FUNCTIONALITY ..................................................... 26 3.4 BREAKWATER EFFECTS ON SURF QUALITY ................................................. 30 3.5 SHELTERING EFFECTS ................................................................................ 48 3.6 SIMULATION OF THE JUNE 2007 SURF EVENT ............................................. 50 4 SUMMARY ................................................................................................... 56 5 REFERENCES .............................................................................................. 59 MetOcean Solutions Ltd iii Whakarire Ave Breakwater - Surf Effects TABLE OF FIGURES Figure 1.1 Coastal protection structures proposed by BECA................................ 2 Figure 1.2 Coastal protection structures proposed by BECA, including the detached breakwater (island) offshore of Westshore Beach................. 2 Figure 1.3 Location of the The Reef surf break (also known as Perfume Point). The proposed seawall / breakwater is also shown on this image.......... 3 Figure 1.4 Wave-rose’ depicting the effects of wind strength (knots) and direction on surfing waves (modified from Walker, 1997)................................. 6 Figure 2.1 Coverage of the nearshore bathymetry survey..................................... 7 Figure 2.2 Swan numerical model domain extents for New Zealand (A), Hawke’s Bay (B) and Napier (C). Also show is the location of the Port of Napier, Bluff Hill and the hindcast output locations within the Napier domain. ............................................................................................ 10 Figure 2.3 Existing bathymetry near Whakarire Ave and Westshore Beach, Napier............................................................................................... 12 Figure 2.4 Proposed breakwater option.............................................................. 13 Figure 2.5 Proposed breakwater plus island option ............................................ 13 Figure 2.6 Alternate breakwater rotated............................................................. 14 Figure 2.7 V-shaped breakwater........................................................................ 14 Figure 2.8 Alternative V-shaped breakwater...................................................... 15 Figure 2.9 CGWAVE model output transect locations....................................... 15 Figure 2.10 Comparison of data on rock-armoured slopes with reflection formulae. The two rough fit slopes reflect the work of Postma (1989) and the prediction by Seelig and Ahrens (1981), after (CIRIC, CUR and CETMEF, 2007)............................................................................... 17 Figure 3.1 Comparison between measured and hindcast significant wave heights at the waverider buoy site (VBWR1 on Fig. 2.1)............................... 21 Figure 3.2 The effect of different offshore wave periods (A), directions (B) and tide elevations (C) on the wave height along the surfers path for the existing bathymetry. See Figure 2.9 for transect locations................. 28 Figure 3.3 Wave height and crests patterns for a 1 m (A) and 2 m (B) incident wave at The Reef.............................................................................. 29 Figure 3.4 Polar plot of spectral wave boundary condition (JONSWAP, with Hs = 1 m, Tp = 12 s, and gamma 3). .......................................................... 29 Figure 3.5 Wave height distributions and wave crest patterns for a 1 m spectral wave simulation, showing the energy peak (Tp=12s) with a 0.4 breakwater reflection coefficient. A – Existing, B – proposed breakwater case. The lower image is a close up of the nearshore wave crest patterns..................................................................................... 32 Figure 3.6 Wave height distributions and wave crest patterns for a 1 m spectral wave simulation, showing the energy peak (Tp=12s) with a 0.4 breakwater reflection coefficient. A – Existing, B – rotated breakwater case. The lower image is a close up of the nearshore wave crest patterns............................................................................................. 33 Figure 3.7 Wave height distributions and wave crest patterns for a 1 m spectral wave simulation, showing the energy peak (Tp=12s) with a 0.4 breakwater reflection coefficient. A – Existing, B – V-shaped breakwater. The lower image is a close up of the nearshore wave crest patterns............................................................................................. 34 MetOcean Solutions Ltd iv Whakarire Ave Breakwater - Surf Effects Figure 3.8 Wave height distributions and wave crest patterns for a 1 m spectral wave simulation, showing the energy peak (Tp=12s) with a 0.4 breakwater reflection coefficient. A – Existing, B – alternative V- shaped breakwater. The lower image is a close up of the nearshore wave crest patterns............................................................................ 35 Figure 3.9 Modelled wave heights along the approximate surfer’s path at mid-tide level (Hs=1m, Tp=12s)..................................................................... 36 Figure 3.10 Wave surface plot of the energy peak for original breakwater option at mid-tide with zero reflectivity (A), 0.4 reflectivity (B) and 0.8 reflectivity (C).................................................................................. 37 Figure 3.11 Spectral output locations along the approximate surfers path; SP1 is offshore and SP4 is inshore............................................................... 38 Figure 3.12 Directional spectra for locations shown on Figure 3.9. Existing case, with Hs=1m and Tp=12s. The 2D scale is spectral density and the radial scale is frequency (0-1). .......................................................... 39 Figure 3.13 Directional
Recommended publications
  • Regionally Significant Surf Breaks in the Greater Wellington Region
    Regionally Significant Surf breaks in the Greater Wellington Region Prepared for: eCoast Marine Consulting and Research Po Box 151 Raglan New Zealand +64 7 825 0087 [email protected] GWRC Significant Surf Breaks Regionally Significant Surf breaks in the Greater Wellington Region Report Status Version Date Status Approved By: V 1 4 Dec ember 201 4 Final Draft STM V 2 5 February 2015 Rev 1 STM V 3 22 May 2015 Rev 2 EAA It is the responsibility of the reader to verify the currency of the version number of this report. Ed Atkin HND, MSc (Hons) Michael Gunson Shaw Mead BSc, MSc (Hons), PhD Cover page: Surfers entering the water at Lyall Bay, Wellington’s best known and most frequently surfed beach. Photo Michael Gunson The information, including the intellectual property, contained in this report is confidential and proprietary to eCoast Limited. It may be used by the persons to whom it is provided for the stated purpose for which it is provided, and must not be imparted to any third person without the prior written approval of eCoast. eCoast Limited reserves all legal rights and remedies in relation to any infringement of its rights in respect of its confidential information. © eCoast Limited 2015 GWRC Significant Surf Breaks Contents CONTENTS ........................................................................................................................................................ I LIST OF FIGURES ............................................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Management Guidelines for Surfing Resources
    Management Guidelines for Surfing Resources Version History Version Date Comment Approved for release by Beta version release of Beta 1st October 2018 first edition for initial feedback period Ed Atkin Version 1 following V1 31st August 2019 feedback period Ed Atkin Please consider the environment before printing this document Management Guidelines for Surfing Resources This document was developed as part of the Ministry for Businesses, Innovation and Employment funded research project: Remote Sensing, Classification and Management Guidelines for Surf Breaks of National and Regional Significance. Disclaimer These guidelines have been prepared by researchers from University of Waikato, eCoast Marine Consulting and Research, and Hume Consulting Ltd, under the guidance of a steering committee comprising representation from: Auckland Council; Department of Conservation; Landcare Research; Lincoln University; Waikato Regional Council; Surfbreak Protection Society; and, Surf Life Saving New Zealand. This document has been peer reviewed by leading surf break management and preservation practitioners, and experts in coastal processes, planning and policy. Many thanks to Professor Andrew Short, Graeme Silver, Dr Greg Borne, Associate Professor Hamish Rennie, James Carley, Matt McNeil, Michael Gunson, Rick Liefting, Dr Shaun Awatere, Shane Orchard and Dr Tony Butt. The authors have used the best available information in preparing this document. Nevertheless, none of the organisations involved in its preparation accept any liability, whether direct, indirect or consequential, arising out of the provision of information in this report. While every effort has been made to ensure that these guidelines are clear and accurate, none of the aforementioned contributors and involved parties will be held responsible for any action arising out of its use.
    [Show full text]
  • The Scarcity and Vulnerability of Surfing Resources
    Master‘s thesis The Scarcity and Vulnerability of Surfing Resources An Analysis of the Value of Surfing from a Social Economic Perspective in Matosinhos, Portugal Jonathan Eberlein Advisor: Dr. Andreas Kannen University of Akureyri Faculty of Business and Science University Centre of the Westfjords Master of Resource Management: Coastal and Marine Management Ísafjör!ur, January 2011 Supervisory Committee Advisor: Andreas Kannen, Dr. External Reader: Ronald Wennersten, Prof., Dr. Program Director: Dagn! Arnarsdóttir, MSc. Jonathan Eberlein The Scarcity and Vulnerability of Surfing Resources – An Analysis of the Value of Surfing from a Social Economic Perspective in Matosinhos, Portugal 60 ECTS thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of a Master of Resource Management degree in Coastal and Marine Management at the University Centre of the Westfjords, Su"urgata 12, 400 Ísafjör"ur, Iceland Degree accredited by the University of Akureyri, Faculty of Business and Science, Borgir, 600 Akureyri, Iceland Copyright © 2011 Jonathan Eberlein All rights reserved Printing: Druck Center Uwe Mussack, Niebüll, Germany, January 2011 Declaration I hereby confirm that I am the sole author of this thesis and it is a product of my own academic research. __________________________________________ Student‘s name Abstract The master thesis “The Scarcity and Vulnerability of Surfing Recourses - An Analysis of the Value of Surfing from a Social Economic Perspective in Matosinhos, Portugal” investigates the potential socioeconomic value of surfing and improvement of recreational ocean water for the City of Matosinhos. For that reason a beach survey was developed and carried out in order to find out about beach users activities, perceptions and demands. Results showed that user activities were dominated by sunbathing/relaxation on the beach and surfing and body boarding in the water.
    [Show full text]
  • Wainui Beach Management Strategy (WBMS)
    Wainui Beach Management Strategy (WBMS) - Surf break Protection Dr Amber Dunn Coastal Scientist, eco-i 21st June 2013 Introduction A management strategy is being devised for Wainui Beach to address coastal erosion. Work to date has identified the key community values to be encapsulated in this strategy are: • Protection of surf breaks of national significance, • Property Protection, • Maintain natural beach processes (and natural character), • Protect the foredune, and • Maintain public access to the beach The management strategy will address and examine these values. In this report, the focus is surf break protection and required answers to three key questions or queries: 1. An explanation of how surf breaks are formed and the related beach processes; 2. What are the high level design considerations or factors to consider to protect surf breaks when developing [protection] options? and 3. Are current protection works and dune care work impacting on surf break and to what extent? The community values indicate the management strategy will need to satisfy multiply needs, and therefore, should follow the key "good design" principle of 'solving more than one problem at a time'. In this respect, the community wants a management strategy that will satisfy these values: surf break protection and property protection and maintain natural beach processess (and therefore natural character) and protect the foredune and maintain public access. Therefore, a holistic approach was taken so that connections between these values are identified and explanations provided alongside answering the 3 key questions. This report is provided in two parts: (a) a brief summary - a single paragraph answer to the specified questions; and (b) an expanded explanation (or context) to support the brief summary.
    [Show full text]
  • Wind N Wave Surf Report
    Wind N Wave Surf Report Is Lothar folding or antigenic when err some petiolule blackmails seditiously? How frictionless is Morry when inquisitorial and real Webster superstructs some kennel? Cressy and multiseptate Kyle intimates her rampart outglare or point dubiously. Required functionality from depricated options_selection. They break either left or right, not both ways as do beach and reef breaks. The result will equal the depth the waves begin to feel the ocean floor. View high and low tides as well as predicted currents for thousands of locations in an easy to use graph and tabular format. We are a full service surf shop located on the central Oregon Coast. Shop Online Or Visit Our San Diego, CA. Their customer service is next to none. For beginner and ripper alike, the best wind direction is almost always light offshore switching to no wind at all. Swell Net offers daily observed surf reports for dawn patrol along with an afternoon update. Find out how to read a surf report with our complete guide. Listen to their perspectives, ask questions, and who knows! Get news and updates! Some surfers may prefer waves, which are steeper, faster and break quicker. When it comes to sculpting the perfect wave, wind strength and direction are as crucial as the tides. By working together we achieve more than by working alone. When the swell travel a long distance, the time between the waves increase. Anyone, anywhere can quickly and easily provide a report of conditions. Baker Beach Tide Times, CA Baker Beach Tides updated daily. Although difference in wind speed is one easy way to classify storms, hurricanes have other unusual characteristics.
    [Show full text]
  • Appendix 4 Surf Breaks
    Appendix 4 Surf breaks Appendix 4 Surf breaks All provisions in this appendix are regional coastal plan [rcp]. ID Name Location Break Seabed Description Type Composition 1 Te Arai East Beach Sand Exposed beach break that is Beach Coast break frequently suitable for wave riding. (including Good wave quality suitable to all Pacific Road skill levels. Offers a 'wilderness' access point experience with lack of 'Black development. Good access. Swamp') 2 Pakiri Beach East Beach Sand Exposed beach break that is (North - Coast break frequently suitable for wave riding. 'Forestry') Good wave quality suitable to all skill levels. Offers a 'wilderness' experience with lack of development. Good access. 3 Pakiri Beach East Beach Sand Exposed beach break that is (South) Coast break frequently suitable for wave riding. Good wave quality suitable to all skill levels. Offers a 'wilderness' experience with lack of development. Good access. 4 Goat Island East Reef Rock/sand Semi exposed reef break. Coast break Relatively inconsistent. Good to high wave quality suitable to experienced surfers. Offers a 'wilderness' experience with little development. Good access. 5 Daniels Reef Leigh, Reef Rock Exposed reef break. Relatively East break consistent. High wave quality Coast suitable to experienced surfers. Good access. 6 Boulders Leigh, Reef Rock/sand Exposed variable reef breaks. East breaks Frequently surfable. Good to high Coast wave quality suitable to experienced surfers. Offers a 'wilderness' experience with a lack of development. Difficult access. Omaha East Beach Sand Semi exposed beach, bar and Beach and break, groyne breaks. Provides wave Auckland Unitary Plan Operative in part 1 Appendix 4 Surf breaks Bar Coast bar quality suitable to learners break, relatively consistently.
    [Show full text]
  • Gold Coast Surf Management Plan
    Gold Coast Surf Management Plan Our vision – Education, Science, Stewardship Cover and inside cover photo: Andrew Shield Contents Mayor’s foreword 2 Location specifi c surf conditions 32 Methodology 32 Gold Coast Surf Management Plan Southern point breaks – Snapper to Greenmount 33 executive summary 3 Kirra Point 34 Our context 4 Bilinga and Tugun 35 Gold Coast 2020 Vision 4 Currumbin 36 Ocean Beaches Strategy 2013–2023 5 Palm Beach 37 Burleigh Heads 38 Setting the scene – why does the Gold Coast Miami to Surfers Paradise including Nobby Beach, need a Surf Management Plan? 6 Mermaid Beach, Kurrawa and Broadbeach 39 Defi ning issues and fi nding solutions 6 Narrowneck 40 Issue of overcrowding and surf etiquette 8 The Spit 42 Our opportunity 10 South Stradbroke Island 44 Our vision 10 Management of our beaches 46 Our objectives 11 Beach nourishment 46 Objective outcomes 12 Seawall construction 46 Stakeholder consultation 16 Dune management 47 Basement sand excavation 47 Background 16 Tidal works approvals 47 Defi ning surf amenity 18 Annual dredging of Tallebudgera and Currumbin Creek Surf Management Plan Advisory Committee entrances (on-going) 47 defi nition of surf amenity 18 Existing coastal management City projects Defi nition of surf amenity from a scientifi c point of view 18 that consider surf amenity 48 Legislative framework of our coastline 20 The Northern Beaches Shoreline Project (on-going) 48 The Northern Gold Coast Beach Protection Strategy Our beaches – natural processes that form (NGCBPS) (1999-2000) 48 surf amenity on the Gold Coast
    [Show full text]
  • Beaches Surf Breaks Respect the Beach Ellwood (R) Beach: Rugged Beauty with a River Mouth: Fast but Fickle Churning Sandy Bottom
    A Coastal Access COASTAL FUND P d Coastal Access Parking a UC SANTA BARBARA o Mesa Road Coastal Pedestrian Path R A SSOCIATED STUDENTS s Major Surf Break o WWW.COASTALF UND. ORG r e Minor Surf Break rn a C Tidepools s o El Co Stadium Road Stadium Shower El Colegio Road L Restrooms Road Storke legio Road r sa o Me Road te 217 x Road o u Ocean Road e rt er v el Sur P Coal Oil Point Devereux De Co escader UCSB reserve SLOUGH Ocean Road ajorca R P main campus ono Camino Lagoon Road ach Camino D B Be UCSB Camino P UCEN Road West Campus leta Embarcadero Del Ma Camino M Go Ellwl ood Beach Embarcadero Del Nor Channel Islands P A Ocean Road Road P A A A A Del Playa Driv A e P A UCSB Rivermouth Yu cca’s A Lagoon Jailhouse Poles Pescadero IV Beach Break A Sands Devereux Point Depressions IV Reef 2nd Depression Campus Point Beaches Surf Breaks Respect the Beach Ellwood (R) Beach: Rugged beauty with a River Mouth: Fast but fickle churning sandy bottom. Clean the Beach: Cigarette butts are the most butterfly habitat in Eucalyptus forest on bluffs above. Sands: Great for wind swells and is a good high common and bottles are the most dangerous. Pick Sands Beach: Scenic nature reserve. Good for tide beach break. Be cautious of large rocks. It’s up beach litter instead of walking by it. bird watching and beautiful sunsets. The foggiest and a peaky crowded break that blows out early and Leash Pets: Especially enforced at the Plover windiest beach with lots of tar on the beach.
    [Show full text]
  • Surfing Injuries
    Chapter 7 Sur fi ng Injuries Andrew T. Nathanson Contents Surfing: The Sport of Kings – History ................................................................................. 143 Demographics ......................................................................................................................... 145 Surfing Equipment ................................................................................................................. 147 Surfing, SUP, and Tow-In .............................................................................................. 147 Bodyboarding and Bodysurfing .................................................................................... 147 Wetsuits ......................................................................................................................... 148 Injury Rates and Risk Factors .............................................................................................. 148 Surfing Fatalities ........................................................................................................... 149 Acute Surfing Injuries ........................................................................................................... 149 Acute Injuries and Their Anatomic Distribution .......................................................... 149 Mechanisms of Injury ................................................................................................... 151 Overuse Injuries ....................................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Contested Surf Tourism Resources in the Maldives
    Contested Surf Tourism Resources in the Maldives ABSTRACT We analyse contests for control of a newly valuable tourism resource, namely surf breaks in the Maldives. Conflicts are shaped by: the resource, economics, culture, legislation, and politics. There are seven stakeholder groups: island resorts, resort-based surfing tourists, live- aboard charter boats, boat-based surfing tourists, local surf-related enterprises, independent travelling surfers using those enterprises, and local resident surfers. We identify a transition from exogenously to endogenously-controlled political processes and power. These are driven by tourism growth, and accelerated by specific trigger events related to political change, land tenure, and development projects. Tourism destinations have seldom been studied in the context of control over natural resources. The transition model constructed here applies across destinations, adventure activities, tourism subsectors, and other industries. Keywords: adventure; property; privatization; land-use; surfing 1. INTRODUCTION Many tourism subsectors rely on particular sites and their natural resources, and commercial tourism enterprises compete to obtain and/or control access and use of those resources. Such competition may occur through social, economic, administrative or political processes. Here we analyse these processes for a newly valuable and heavily contested tourism resource, namely surf breaks in the Republic of Maldives. The theoretical framework adopted for this analysis is that of property rights. Property rights are a key but complex component in the structures of most human societies, and in consequence, have been analysed in considerable detail. There are many different types and classifications of property rights (Sikor, He & Lestrelin, 2017). For example, they may be classified according to the subject of the right, such as land, physical objects, or intellectual property.
    [Show full text]
  • Protecting Surf Breaks and Surfing Areas in California
    Protecting Surf Breaks and Surfing Areas in California by Michael L. Blum Date: Approved: Dr. Michael K. Orbach, Adviser Masters project submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Master of Environmental Management degree in the Nicholas School of the Environment of Duke University May 2015 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ........................................................................................................... vi LIST OF FIGURES ...................................................................................................................... vii LIST OF TABLES ........................................................................................................................ vii LIST OF ACRONYMS ............................................................................................................... viii LIST OF DEFINITIONS ................................................................................................................ x EXECUTIVE SUMMARY ......................................................................................................... xiii 1. INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................................... 1 2. STUDY APPROACH: A TOTAL ECOLOGY OF SURFING ................................................. 5 2.1 The Biophysical Ecology ...................................................................................................... 5 2.2 The Human Ecology ............................................................................................................
    [Show full text]
  • Surf Break Co-Management: Options for the Protection and Enhancement of Surf Breaks in New Zealand
    Surf Break Co-Management: Options for the protection and enhancement of surf breaks in New Zealand Aaron Mark Edwards A thesis submitted in partial fulfilment of the degree of Master of Planning. University of Otago, Dunedin, New Zealand. 1st November 2012 Abstract The inclusion of surf breaks in the New Zealand Coastal Policy Statement (2010) establishes New Zealand as a potential world leader in surf break protection. The approach is highly dependent upon local authorities being required to give effect to these new policy directives. Providing for these policies requires a multi-faceted approach that includes surf break identification, mapping, monitoring, policy provision, integrated management approaches and evaluation. This presents significant challenges, especially given that most local authorities lack specific surfing expertise. Surf break users have extensive knowledge of local surf breaks and an inherent interest in the preservation of surfing resources, representing a potential aid to local authorities in providing for surf breaks. Surf break policy implementation arguably serves to benefit from the involvement of surf break users in management responses and decision-making processes. This thesis involved a case study of the Auckland and Otago regions to explore surf break user values, the purpose of surf break management and the suitability of surf break co- management within New Zealand’s resource management framework. The study involved an online survey of surf break users and interviews with key stakeholders in the management of surf breaks. A key theme that emerged throughout the research was the desire for surf break management to reflect the needs and vision of local surfing communities.
    [Show full text]