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Home , Aschaffenburg, Aschaffenburg (district), Obernburg, Schloss Johannisburg

// Excursions frm SerieS

BAVARIAN LOWER The charm of the Bavarian Lower Main High tech and quality of life away from the big-city hustle and bustle A castle forms the skyline, in the valley global market leaders produce their goods, a princess enthuses about wind turbines and for the music scene is a major city. A journey of discovery Claus Berninger During the afternoon some of the Event Organizer, Colos-Saal band members head upstairs to the By Barbara Hofmann and Martin Orth, photos: Jonas Ratermann Aschaffenburg performers’ dressing room, while 49°58‘33.10“N the others prepare the sound check. 9°8‘56.54“E Quite casually, wearing a T-shirt, shorts and sandals, Claus Berninger sits in his office on thest 1 story above the concert hall and tells us Mömbris about his job. He has been manag- ing the club for 27 years. 25 events The Bavarian Lower Main is a real are the frontrunners in FrankfurtRhineMain: years ago. Around 800 years as part of the take place here each month – from Rock, Pop and Jazz to Heavy Metal ­insider tip. Numerous national and ­’s first music school was established in former Electorate and Archbishopric of and Hip Hop. For him that means Aschaffenburg >international studies have shown that the region Aschaffenburg in 1810. have left lasting marks on the area. a 70 to 80-hour week, starting at 6 a.m. every day. This has nothing in offers top quality of life, opportunities for the common with the classic sex, drugs Großwallstadt ­future and development potential. Innovation The Bavarians in FrankfurtRhineMain do not Aschaffenburg was the second residence of & Rock ‘n’ Roll cliché. It is rather a matter of professionalism, passion and tradition go hand in hand on the border be­ ­experience the greatest amount of acceptance the Mainz bishops and prince-electors who and responsibility – for the now Erlenbach tween Hessen and , home to around from their fellow statesmen in the south of the had the castle built be­ eleven permanent employees. “I 370,000 people. Aschaffenburg, with around Free State: The Bavarian Lower Main is for them tween 1605 and 1619. Citizens of Aschaffenburg trained as a social worker,” says Ber- 70,000 inhabitants from 130 countries the “capi­ too close to neighboring Hessen. Furthermore have the Archbishop and Prince-Elector of ninger. “It gives you a different out- look on things.” His aim was never to tal” of the Bavarian Lower Main region, boasts they speak in the Hessian rather than the Mainz Fried­rich Carl Joseph von Erthal to hit the financial big-time, which Germany’s first traffic intersection outfitted with ­Bavarian dialect, press applewine and distill thank for creating one of the earliest land­ one most certainly can do in this field laser scanners and cameras used to conduct re­ schnapps. A quarter-liter jug of Franconian scaped gardens to grace southern Germany. if willing to take certain risks. He ­wanted nothing more than good Bavaria in FRM search into accident prevention strategies. A few wine is ordered more often than a nice, smooth From 1775, the former electoral game preserve music – regardless of the particular The Bavarian Lower Main region forms the kilometers along the Main, in Miltenberg, Ger­ liter of beer. The north Bavarians enjoy views of was redesigned into an English-style park. direction. So the amateur musician ­Bavarian part of FrankfurtRhineMain. The set about establishing the Colos- many’s oldest inn is still serving guests. Travelers the skyline, not Alpine peaks. They With its artificial lake, ­watercourses mean­ Main River links the and , Saal’s position in the top ten German Aschaffenburg and Miltenberg.A round passing through have been stopping at the hold their own wine festivals rather than that dering through meadows and small forests, clubs – and that in a town with just 370,000 people live in the region, 70,000 “Riesen”, a grand old half-timbered house in the famous ode to beer, the Oktoberfest. All this is mazes, a Temple of Friendship, Palace and 70,000 inhabitants. of them in Aschaffenburg. They profit from  www.colos-saal.de the economic strength of the region and middle of the picturesque old town, since the not particularly surprising, given that they ­Philosopher’s House, Schönbusch Park has value the high quality of life there 12th century. And culturally too, the Bavarians only became part of Bavaria just under 200 been a popular attraction for the citizens of

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Dr. Thomas Richter Uli Wolf Thomas Richter glances out of Uli Wolf arrives at the Sportpark on the window of his office on the 1st Director, Museen der Stadt Aschaffenburg his motorcycle. He opens the TV Team Manager, TV Grosswallstadt floor of Schloss Johannisburg in Aschaffenburg Grosswallstadt office. The cabinets Grosswallstadt ­Aschaffenburg, lost in thoughts of 49°58‘32.84“N are a reminder of its great past. 49°52‘51.49“N his most current and largest project, 9°8‘31.60“E Since the founding of the German 9°8‘56.22“E the “Aschaffenburg Museum Mile”. Handball Bundesliga in 1977, Gross- It is set to run from Schlossmuseum wallstadt has maintained its position to Stiftmuseum. There are plans in the highest professional handball for a “museum district” on the site of league. In the late 1970s/early the former Jesuit monastery located 1980s, TVG dominated the league between the two , which is along with Gummersbach and Es- ­Aschaffenburg and their guests even since. On garten Director Urban Priol has made the region soon to be freed up. “We are already sen. In 1980 the white-blues even thinking about the opening exhibi- took all titles in that year – they were balmy summer evenings in the Hessian-Bavar­ a key location of the cabaret scene with a string tion for the first stage of construc- Bundesliga Champions and winners ian border region the famous white-and-blue of prominent guests. tion in 2014,” says Richter. A project of the Cup, Supercup and European joie de vivre surfaces in the large beer garden of the century for Aschaffenburg. Champions Cup. “The reality is now This way, the city of culture can somewhat different,” says Wolf. Uli there. The Kirchner-Haus opposite the new As­ present its treasures in a fitting Wolf started out as a player himself, chaffenburg Main Station is also of suprare­ manner. These include works by was then made team captain and Erthal’s successor, the last Archbishop and gional significance. The Expressionist painter ­Lucas Cranach and Matthias Grüne- later became TV Grosswallstadt’s wald, as well as Ernst Ludwig Kirch- co-coach. Today he is Sports Direc- Prince- Carl Theodor von was born there in 1880. ner, who was born in Aschaffenburg, tor and in times of financial difficulty ­Dalberg, supported the construction of the mu­ As a young boy he would observe the hustle and Christian Schad, who lived in places great emphasis on the pro- th the surrounding area. Plans incorpo- motion of the youth teams. The Ba- nicipal theater, which will celebrate its 200 and bustle on the street from his first-story rate an area specifically dedicated varian Lower Main is a handball birthday in late October. On the occasion of its apartment. “As a boy I always sat at the win­ to Modern and emerging art from stronghold. Young talent from all anniversary, the Classicist building will be pre­ dow and drew what I saw; women with baby Aschaffenburg.B ut first of all, in early over the region comes to TVG to 2012 the exhibition “Reiselust und play. This is also beneficial for teams sented in new splendor following more than carriages, trees, railway trains…” wrote Kirch­ Sinnesfreude: Corinth – Liebermann in the lower leagues – Obernburg, three years of renovation work totaling ner in a letter in 1916. The new “Kirchner-Haus – Slevogt” (Wanderlust and sensual Aschaffenburg , and Gross- €8.4 million. The new theater season will offer Aschaffenburg” association remembers the pleasures: Corinth – Liebermann – The magnificent red-golden sandstone Umstadt. “I am setting myself a new Slevogt) is to open at Kunsthalle Schloss Johannisburg roosts high above challenge,” says Uli Wolf with a flash audiences both guest performances by renowned cultural city’s famous son. Some fans of the Jesuitenkirche. the city. From here you can also walk to of his winning smile. companies as well as events by the Aschaffen­ artist in Aschaffenburg want to set up a room  www.museen-aschaffenburg.de the Pompejanum, a perfect replica of a  www.tvgrosswallstadt.de ­Roman residential villa burg-based Kleinkunstbühne Hofgarten and documenting Kirchner’s childhood in the the music club Colos-Saal. In recent years ­ house in which he was born.

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Manfred Bauer Princess Stephanie zu Löwenstein Manfred Bauer walks through the Stephanie zu Löwenstein strides factory halls and into the showroom. Managing Director, Reinhold Keller GmbH Managing Director, through the tall wild grass at Schloss He comes from a family of metal- Kleinheubauch Weingut Fürst Löwenstein Löwenstein, telling us about a hunt- workers. “Nowadays, I find the smell 49°42‘55.84“N Kleinheubach ing lodge in the forest and enthusing of metal more pleasant than that of 9°12‘22.68“E about wind turbines as she goes. 49°43‘13.12“N wood,” he admits. But he has built 9°13‘0.62“E “That is the future.” Is this what you up his business with wood. When, at imagine when you think of a princess? the age of 22, Bauer had to take over Although she comes from a West- responsibility for the business fol- phalian noble family herself, Steph- lowing the death of Reinhold Keller, he anie zu Löwenstein is more the was left standing there with bundles For the purposes of tourism advertising, the The castles of Churfranconia offer more than manager type. Well-educated but of talent and nowhere to channel by no means snobby. Elegant but it. So what now? After furnishing the region between the hills of the Odenwald and just beautiful views of the Main Valley. In the not extravagant. The trained pedia- first McDonalds in Aschaffenburg, Spessart and along the River Main now de­ summer months they serve as the backdrop for a trician and mother of four considers he recognized the business potential it her role to prepare the almost scribes itself as “Churfranken”. Churfranken, number of festivals and concerts. Visitors from there. Bauer applied to ­McDonald’s 1,000-year-old palace for the future. German headquarters in . or Churfranconia, encompasses 20 small towns all over FrankfurtRhineMain attend the annual The forest – just under 8,000 hec- That proved to be a ­decisive step. and villages, including the wine-producing Clingenburg-Festspiele in Klingenberg. This tares – is to be sustainably managed. Today Reinhold Keller is one of the Together with her father-in-law, towns of Klingenberg, Miltenberg, Bürgstadt summer “Museum.Burg.Miltenberg” opened at leading furnishers in the European Alois K. Prince zu Löwenstein, she catering industry – a true hidden and the handball stronghold Grosswallstadt, the Mildenburg. The Medieval castle, which was also aspires to secure Hotel Schloss champion. The medium-sized busi- which all attract tourists with their palaces, closed to visitors for three decades, has been re­ Löwenstein a place in the top rank- ness has since outfitted more than ings. The wine estate – with fine 3,000 restaurants; most of them castles, vineyards, half-timbered houses and stored at a cost of 2.8 million euros and now, as wine from the famous Homburg McDonalds, but others ­include hiking trails. With the new name, the region is opposed to the old, clattering suits of armor one ­Kallmuth vineyard at the heart of Mövenpick, Vapiano and Mosch­ calling to mind its historical connection to may expect, houses icons and Modern art from and from the Grand Cru Mosch, from the Faeroe Islands to vineyards in Hallgarten am Rhein – th st The two Heubachs Casablanca, Paris to Riyadh. Mainz. Churfranconia is a wine-producing the 20 and 21 centuries. Thanks to its SMEs, Kleinheubach is considered has already moved to the Schloss­ ­Manfred Bauer expects further country: The Franconian Red Wine Trail invites one of Bavaria’s wealthiest . The park Kleinheubauch. Her husband growth thanks to a new company Carl Friedrich Prince zu Löwenstein guests to explore the vineyards. The famous Yet it is not only art from the 21st century that wine industry is a key feature of Großheubach. The ­invention, which enables photos to “Bischofsberg” greets visitors like Germany’s had already begun preparations be printed directly onto wood. ­Pinot Noir, with which vintners such as Paul can be found in the region, but modern compa­ ­answer to the Hollywood Hills for the project when he died in 2010 “This is going to change the industry Fürst and his son Sebastian from Bürgstadt have nies and market leaders, too. The Lower Main is in a race on the Nürburgring. yet again.”  www.loewenstein.de achieved international renown, thrives on the a hub for the automobile supplier industry; the  www.reinhold-keller.de steep red sandstone terraces. airbag was developed here 30 years ago. Along­

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Dr. Ralf Dingeldein Arno Josef Dirker Ralf Dingeldein is consulting with Arno Dirker takes a deep breath. a group of colleagues from the quality Vice President New Trucks, ­Delightful. For him delivering the fruit Owner, Edelbrennerei Dirker control department at the plant Linde Material Handling is one of the best moments. “The Mömbris in the Nilkhelm district of Aschaffen- Aschaffenburg smell of the ripe fruit. Just marve- 50°5‘30.26“N burg. He is in charge of global sales lous. This aroma should be preserved 9°8‘46.72“E 49°58‘3.43“N of new vehicles at Linde Material 9°9‘13.67“E forever,” says the distiller. Dirker took Handling. The smooth delivery of the up this career path out of necessity. fork-lift trucks is a prerequisite for By the mid-1980s there was little the company’s success. Dingeldein money to be earned with fruit-grow- has been working for Linde since ing alone. That is when he came 2008 and knows the fundamentals up with the idea of distilling the fruit. side the automotive, logistics, IT and automa­ have been made available to the project for of the business inside out. The He obviously had a good nose for ­company, founded in 1904, has been it. In 1995, he was voted the inter­ tion sectors, companies specializing in medical ­accident prevention. Research is taking place, operating in Aschaffenburg since national “Schnapps Distiller of the and optical technologies and renewable ener­ amongst other destinations, at the busy 1907. Today, 30,000 fork-lift trucks Year” and since then his business gies have also established themselves here. A ­Aschaffenburg interchange. are shipped from the plant each has been growing at a double-digit year. No one is exactly the same as rate. With twelve employees he further focal point is research, since 1995 in the another. Each vehicle is configured ­today produces over 25,000 context of cooperative projects between compa­ The research being conducted in the Bavarian to suit the specific needs of the schnapps, liquors and spirits for nies and Aschaffenburg University of Applied Lower Main is not just restricted to enterprises ­client. Linde is the European market 16,000 clients and 1,800 businesses leader, holds the second spot glo­ in the gastronomy industry – this Sciences, and in the near future in the new and universities. The region regularly takes the bally and claims to be the market also includes a number of starred Fraunhofer project group in Alzenau, whereby top places in “Jugend forscht” competitions. This leader in terms of technology. How restaurants such as the “Traube innovative the company is, is empha- ­Tonbach”. Of the now more than scientists are seeking to develop new recycling year, two students became national winners sized by the fact that Linde brought 70 kinds of schnapps, “Damson Plum” methods. with their “magic formula” against bad breath. the first electric forklift onto the is their bestseller. Dirker is especially The research duo from the Hanns-Seidel school market 40 years ago. Now, electric Aschaffenburg proud of his patented “Hazelnut vehicles are the focus of the entire Tradition and modernity shape day-to-day life in Spirit”. The whole range is available As of this year, the Lower Main has been covered will be going to Helsinki at the end of September transport industry. Aschaffenburg. Schönbusch Park (r.) is a popular to sample every year on the last by the Aschaffenburg University of Applied Sci­ to take part in the European round organized by www.linde-mh.de excursion destination. It is one of the oldest and Sunday in October at the festival  ences Research Initiative Center (KO-FAS), the European Commission, where they will largest parks in Germany, designed in the style “Der brennt”, where local of an English landscaped garden. distillers present their products. which focuses on the development of new intel­ ­present their “No Bad Breath” magic formula to a  www.dirker.de ligent sensor technology. Here, cars are equipped jury. Whether the boys will describe themselves with sensors, which are to warn drivers of as Bavarian or as coming from FrankfurtRhine­ ­potential dangers ahead of time. 25 million euros Main? Who knows? \\

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