WTAUNTON’S A Classic Case A project plan for a case with a modern take on an Arts and Crafts classic

Build an Bookcase From Getting Started in , Season 2 Simple, Sturdy WorkbenchB y A s A C h r i s t i A n A ou can thank Mike Pekovich, For more FREE Fine Woodworking’s art direc- See how our magazine n A From Getting Startedtor, for designing in this Woodworking, simple but A Season 2 Y A C h r i s t i stylish bookcase. He took a straightforA - Simple, SturdyB y A s WorkbenchA n ward form--an oak bookcase with and joints--and added nice pro- A C h r i s t i Lis T From Getting Startedportions inand elegantWoodworking, curves. SeasonLies 2 B y A s D supp We agreed that screws would reinforceDware an Lis T Mber, har Lies the joints nicely, andLu that gave us a deD -supp 8-ft.-long 2x4s, kiln-dried be inexpensivesign option on the sides.4 Dware Choose an oak plugs, and align the grain carefully, and n be versatile Mber, har 2 8-ft.-longln-dried 4x4s, kiln-dried his is easy and the plugsLu disappear. Make them from a 1/2 in. longide. by Front 3 in. jaw 3/4wide. in.ca thick.Front jaw can The base is 4 8-ft.-long 2x4s,1 4x8 ki ln-driedsheet of MDF by 6 in. long makes you a better project plans from in. thick. ong to build, yet is sturdy and contrasting , like walnut, and the 3/4 T 8-ft.-long 4x4s,2 ki pieces for 1/2vise in. jaws, longthick 7by and 3 in.the w rear jaw is rows of plugs2 add a nice design feature ear jaw-in.-thick is , 4 in. wide enough for any woodworker.4s and 2x4s), joined between 1 in. and 1 3/4 4 in. wide by 6 in. l to the broad1 sides,4x8 sheethinting of MDFatces the for con - jaws, 7 hort dowels. The 1/2 in. thick and the r his workbenchconstruction is easy and inexpensive (4x 1 Filler block 1 for mounting3/4-in.-thick vise, plywood, struction in a2 subtleHardwood way. pie edium-density orking Vise (www.woodcraft.com)aft.com) Tto build,simply yet is sturdywith long and bolts versatile and s By design the betweenbookcase 11 in. containsbottle and untingof yellowa vise, glue sheet,number with of fundamentalFiller block lessons for7-in. mo glue Groz for Rapid-Action Woodwg Vise (www.woodcr top is two layers of MDF (m 1 1 3 ⁄8-in.-dia. threaded rod enough for any woodworker. The base is would-be furniture-makers, and like the andy shelf. bottle of yellow6-ft. lengthstion Woodworkinof rod constructionfiberboard), lumber (4x4s cut andfrom 2x4s), a single joinedother projects 1in this video4 series, the this bench 7-in. Groz Rapid-Ac3 ⁄8-in.3 ⁄8washers-in.-dia. threaded ront jaw of vise simply withenough long bolts left andover short to make dowels. a h Thewhole thing can-1 be built with16 just a few ,portable and a powerhand tools:4 6-ft. a lengthscircular16 3 of⁄ 8saw,-in. nuts a g front jaw ofrear vise jaw top is two layersThe ofonly MDF tools (medium-density needed to make 1/4-20 bolts, nuts, washers for attaching f , and a 3 ⁄8-in. washers ear jaw . 16 2 2-in.-long shers for attachin ing benchtop woodworker Fine Woodworking fiberboard),are cut a drill/driver,from a single a sheet,circular with 1/4-20 flathead screws for attaching - The shelves attach 3to⁄8-in. the nuts sides11/2 with-in.-long, ws for attaching r attaching vise small cast-16 2 1/4-20 bolts, nuts, wa ng benchtop simple dadoes, and the back and back- 1/4-in.-long drywall screws for laminat enough leftheld over router to make or a arouter handy table shelf. 2-in.-long Box of 1 r attaching vise splash drop into .2 Screws1 rein1/4-20- flatheadLumber screscrews for andlaminati hardware List The only toolsThere needed is room to at make one thisend forbenchh is a an essential -in.-long, 1/2-in.-long lag screws and washers, for 11/2 3 ⁄8-in.-dia., 2 s and washers, fo force the dado joints2 and also attach4 1/4-in.-long the drywall are a drill/driver,iron woodworking a ,vise, andwhic aop. hand The vise is Part gQtY size materiaL lower stretcher, and 1woodBox plugsof16 1 coverS-clip-type1/2-in.-long tabletop lag screw fasteners denthe screwjaws, holes. and the Smaller 3 ⁄wood8-in.-dia., screws 32 held routertool or ina routerany woodworking table. sh 4 16 ⁄8-in.-dia.etop dowels,fasteners roughly 3 in. lon are used to attach the plywood back. sides 2 3/4 in. x 11 in. x 52 in. Oak There isfitted room with at onenon-marring end for a woosmalldog cast- holes, sized S-clip-type tabl roughly 3 in. long Curves add life to rectangular16 pieces nch accessories. 3 ⁄8-in.-dia. dowels, iron woodworkingjaws and vise,benchtop which receive is an essential of furniture, and Pekovich16 worked in sheLVes 5 3/4 in. x 10 5/8 in. x 27 in. Oak tool in anyto woodworkingfit a variety of shop. handy The be visethree istypes, each irregular and organic 62 in. (as opposed to radius curves that can fitted with non-marring wooden jaws, and the11/2 in. 4 in. seem mechanical). At the top are gen- back 62sPL in.ash 1 3/4 in. x 3 1/4 in. x 27 1/24 in.in. Oak jaws and benchtop receive dog holes,tle curves sized that speed up as they move 5 in. to fit a variety of handy bench accessories.forward, each taken from a section of 3 ⁄16 24 in. 1/2 in. arched 35⁄16 in. 13⁄4 in. a French1 curve. At the bottom are two 1 3/4 in. x 3 in. x 26 1/2 in.13⁄4 in. Oak stretcher CLICK HERE NOW! long curves formed with a flexible wood SUBSCRIBE TODAY! batten, one extending end to end on the Oak veneer 24 in. 7 back 1 1/4 in. x 27 1/2 in. x 45 3/4 in. 5 8 in. lower stretcher,2 ⁄8 in. and the other a short 5⁄8 in.33plywood⁄ Long stretchers 33 graceful arch at the bottom of the sides, 3 in. 10 in. 1 ⁄16 13⁄4 in. ending at a straight step at each end to screwsLong stretchersFOr 13⁄4 in. 7 in. 30 #12 x 2 in. flat head screws Steel suggest2 ⁄legs.8 sheLVes Side 10 in. 13⁄16 in. screws FOr stretchers--Asa Christiana, editor, Fine Woodworking 24 #6 x 3/4 in. flat head screws Steel back 93⁄16 in. 93⁄16 in. Side stretchers VideOs Go to Finewoodworking.com/start to watch a multi-part video detailing how to build this bookcase from start to finish.

41 in. 9 in. 95⁄8 in. 41 in. 13⁄16 in. 48 in. 9 in. 48 in. to finish. 95⁄8 in. 17 in. 13⁄16 in. how to build this workbench from start start to watch a two-part video detailing how to build this workbench from start to finish. 31/2 in.17 in. Finewoodworking.com/ to watch a two-part video detailing Visit us online at start ViDeOs oodworking.com/ Finew 31/2 in. Visit us online at ViDeOs A Classic Case

Floating-tenon joinery and curly cherry update a traditional Arts and Crafts design

BY GREGORY PAOLINI

nyone familiar with American furniture would immediately identify this book- A case as an Arts and Crafts design. However, it differs from traditional pieces in two important ways. Arts and Crafts fur- niture usually is made from quartersawn white oak, but I built this bookcase from curly cherry. Traditional Arts and Crafts pieces are joined with mortises and tenons, while I use a modern variation—the - ing tenon (FWW #158, pp. 36-39). In floating-tenon joinery, a wooden spline (the floating tenon) joins mortises routed in both pieces (see photo, facing page). I find floating-tenon joinery to be much faster than traditional mortise-and- tenon, and plenty strong. I spent time choosing highly figured boards for the front rails and the side pan- els, which will be most visible. The back is of shiplapped cherry, resawn (sliced in half to produce two thinner boards) from 4/4 stock. Shiplapping is a method of slightly overlapping boards by rabbetting the opposite edge of each side. Shiplapped boards rarely end up sitting exactly flush with each other. Those who don’t like that look might substitute plywood or tongue- and- boards for the back.

Prepare the stock before you begin As with all projects, I make sure the lumber is dried properly, and acclimate it to my shop for a couple of weeks. After that, I

32 FINE WOODWORKING Photos, except where noted: Andy Engel BOOKCASE ANATOMY Built from cherry and joined with floating

tenons, this case is a modern take on an Top, 7⁄8 in. thick Arts and Crafts classic. The tenons provide by 121⁄2 in. wide Upper stretcher, Button blocks by 36 in. long rigidity so that the sides and back can float 3⁄4 in. thick by secure top. within the rails and stretchers. The side 21⁄2 in. wide by panels are book-matched and the 281⁄2 in. long back is shiplapped. Upper tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by 11⁄2 in. wide by 11⁄2 in. long Shelf-pin holes, drilled into inner faces of Upper rail, posts 3⁄4 in. thick by 21⁄2 in. wide by 8 in. long Shelf, 1 in. thick by 101⁄2 in. wide by 301⁄2 in. long Rear notch, Corbel, 1 in. by 1 in. 3⁄4 in. thick by 11⁄2 in. wide by 9 in. long

Groove for panel, 5⁄16 in. deep 3 Shiplapped Lower stretcher, ⁄4 in. thick by back panels, 31⁄2 in. wide by 281⁄2 in. long 1⁄4 in. thick by 35 in. long

Lower tenon, 1⁄4 in. thick by Front notch, 3 in. wide by 11⁄2 in. long 1 in. by 11⁄2 in. Side panel, 1⁄4 in. thick by 81⁄2 in. wide by 35 in. long FLOATING TENONS Post, 13⁄4 in. sq. JOIN THE CASE by 43 in. long Cut from scrap, tenons should Lower rail, 3⁄4 in. thick by 31⁄2 in. wide by 8 in. long be thick enough to slip into the Leveler mortise with hand pressure and slightly undersize in width to give excess glue somewhere to go during assembly. 36 in. 121⁄2 in.

Rail All mortises are 7⁄8 in. deep. Floating tenon

1⁄2 in. 1⁄2 in. Stretcher 7 43 ⁄8 in. 43 in. Post Shelf-pin hole, 1⁄2 in. deep

21⁄2 in. 1⁄2 in.

32 in. 111⁄2 in.

Drawings: Bob La Pointe SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005 33 Routing the rail mortises

A SIMPLE MORTISING JIG Fitted with a guide bushing the same diameter as the slot, a plunge router easily mortises the ends of the rails and stretchers.

Template Guide bushing

Workpiece

rough-cut all of the boards slightly oversize, out while resawing wide stock, I start by and let them sit for an extra day or two in kerfing both edges of the boards on the case the wood still wants to shift a bit. tablesaw. This leaves less wood in the Face-jointing is a critical, but often over- center of the board to , and the looked, step in dressing lumber. Jointing kerfs help guide the bandsaw blade to one face flattens the board, removing flaws ensure a straighter cut. Slot the jig on a router table. The jig’s such as cupping or mild twisting. To keep The boards resawn for the back are hardwood fence rides along the router table’s track of it as a reference surface, I mark the planed to finished thickness, and then fence, accurately slotting the jig’s MDF base. jointed face with chalk. After face-jointing, weighted down in a stack to keep them I one edge of each board, being flat. These boards can vary in width, which sure to feed it through the with the adds a little character to the bookcase, and flattened face against the fence. When I should be left a little oversize for fitting to the stock to thickness, the jointed the back of the case. face rides across the bed of the planer, The side panels are book-matched (re- ensuring a flat board. sawn panels are glued edge to edge so that Like the shiplapped back, the side panels the grain of each mirrors the other). When are resawn from 4/4 stock. I leave the stock the glue has cured, scrape away the excess, destined for resawing as thick as possible, and plane the sides to their final thickness. planing it only to remove the rough face. As with the back, I leave the side panels Mark centerlines on both the jig’s slot and My bandsaw is a basic 14-in. model oversize and fit them to the case later. the workpiece. Line up the centerlines and with a 6-in. riser block to add capacity. I couldn’t find any 8/4 stock for the posts, the stock in the jig. It’s not terribly powerful, so to help it so I glued each one from two pieces of

34 FINE WOODWORKING Photos, this page: Rodney Diaz Routing the post mortises

SUPPORTING THE ROUTER When mortising the posts, there’s not much surface area to support the router. A second post laid beside the workpiece adds support.

4/4 stock planed to 7⁄8 in. To give the illu- for the side panels and shiplapped back, sion that these posts came from one piece and the panels are the same thickness as of wood, I ripped some cherry to about the tenons. So, cutting the mortises at the 1⁄8 in. thick, and used it as a thick veneer on same time is only a matter of deepening the sides of the posts that showed the glue- the groove at the top and bottom of the line. Although this technique also results in post. To provide additional support for the gluelines, they’re so close to the corners of router, I place a second post alongside the Edge guide Second the posts that they’re barely noticeable. one being routed (see drawing, right). So post as not to strain the router bit, it’s important Workpiece Floating tenons speed construction As with traditional mortise-and-tenon joints, floating tenons should be about one-third the thickness of the stock. In this case, the Grooves for the back and side panels finished thickness of the bookcase rails is 3⁄4 in.; the tenons are 1⁄4 in. thick. Accord- ingly, I cut the mortises with a 1⁄4-in. spiral upcutting bit on a plunge router using a simple jig (see photos, facing page). I make the tenons by ripping and plan- ing lengths of stock to fit the mortises. The tenon edges are bullnosed on a router ta- ble. The tenons should be thick enough to slip into the mortises with hand pressure, and a little undersize in width to give air and excess glue somewhere to go. The mortises are just over 3⁄4 in. deep; I cut the tenon stock into 11⁄2-in.-long pieces.

Mortise and groove the frame I mortise the posts using a plunge router 1 Mill the grooves in the rails and stretch- A plunge router fitted with a fence mills and a fence. The bit is the same ⁄4-in. spi- ers on the tablesaw. This method is a the grooves in the posts. Use the same ral upcutting bit used to mortise the rails safer, easier alternative to routing the thin router setup used to cut the mortises in and stretchers. I have to set up the router edges of these pieces. the posts. and fence anyway to groove the posts

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005 35 Assemble the bookcase in stages

Prefinishing saves hours of time cleaning glue squeeze-out. Shop towels shoved into the mortises keep them finish free to ensure glue adhesion. Glue-up starts with the sides (right). Allow them to dry overnight before removing the clamps. to make several light passes instead of one heavy pass. When a router bit spinning at 20,000 rpm breaks, bad things happen. Before putting the router away, I cut small grooves in the upper rails and stretchers. Later on, I will use them to secure the top with button blocks (see drawing, p. 33). Bookcases get loaded with hundreds of pounds of books, and it’s tough on the joints if the piece is not level. I like to Finally, I ease the bottoms of the posts Now is also the time to measure the final add adjustable levelers to the bottoms of by holding them at an angle and spinning length and depth of the shelves, and lay the posts. I use common metal pad level- the bottoms against a sander. out the notches at the corners where the ers available at most hardware stores, and shelves will fit around the posts. I cut these screw them into threaded inserts that I in- Dry-assemble to check final dimensions notches on a bandsaw, but you could just stall in the base of each post. With all the joints cut, I dry-assemble the as well use a handsaw or . Leave a The next operation on the posts is to drill bookcase and measure for the back and 1⁄16-in. space between each post and its an array of holes for the adjustable shelf side panels. Both the side panels and the corresponding notch to accommodate sea- pins. To keep them out of view, I locate back will expand and contract due to sea- sonal movement. the bores for these pins on the inner faces sonal humidity—about 1⁄8 in. per foot of After I have sized the side panels, back, of the posts. I use a jig that I made, with width. How you size the panels depends and shelves, I do one last dry-fit and make holes drilled at the cabinetmaker’s standard on the season. For example, if it’s humid, any required adjustments. When I know 32-mm spacing. These holes are drilled to the panels should fit snugly because they’ll everything will fit together, I sand all the accept a 3⁄8-in. router bushing. With my dry and shrink when the season changes. pieces to 220 grit. plunge router so equipped, I “drill” the If your shop is very dry, keep the fit looser Making and attaching the corbels is the holes with a 1⁄4-in. spiral upcutting bit. (to allow some expansion). final step before finishing. I bandsaw

36 FINE WOODWORKING Next come the stretchers and the back. You Top off the assembly with the final side. Use blocks on may want to enlist a helper when putting together each side of the corbels to transfer clamping pressure to the posts. the shiplapped back. them, then smooth the sawn surfaces with to glue the mortises and tenons to- a and a little sanding. Because gether is to apply a thin of glue the corbels are only ornamental, they can along the top of the mortise, and let be attached with brads and glue. gravity pull it down. As soon as I’ve clamped the assembly, I check it with Finished—but not done a carpenter’s framing square. To minimize the problems glue squeeze- After the sides have cured, I move on out can cause, I finish all the parts before to assembling the front and the back assembly. Prefinishing takes discipline; (see photos, above). You might want after all this time, you just want to see to use polyurethane glue for assembling the bookcase take shape. But finishing the back; it has a longer open time than the parts first means you won’t have to yellow glue. spend tedious hours trying to clean up While clamping the bottom is straight- glue squeeze-out later. forward, the top with its corbels causes I apply a coat of Zinsser Bullseye Seal- a problem. The solution is to use small Coat sanding sealer over the raw wood to pine blocks on each side of the corbels minimize grain raising. The sealer also adds to transmit clamping pressure to the a nice amber hue typical of traditional oil- posts. Once the glue has cured, I can based finishes, but lacking in the water- easily remove any squeeze-out, which based ones I use. I let it dry overnight, then doesn’t bond to the topcoat very well. apply several coats of Minwax Polycrylic. Then I attach the top with button blocks Be sure to apply the same number of coats to allow for wood movement, and install Add the top to all sides of the pieces to minimize the the shelves. I finish up with a quick coat and shelves, and chance of the wood warping. of wax for its tactile benefit.  this new heirloom is ready. The shelves are all removable, resting on shelf Putting it all together Gregory Paolini is a Roycroft Renaissance Artisan pins or the bottom stretch- I assemble the bookcase in stages, starting who builds furniture part time in his Depew, N.Y., ers, and notched to fit with the sides. The best way I’ve found basement shop. around the posts.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005 37