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historical walking tours

POrt pyrmont Historical Walking Tour

Front Cover Image: Pyrmont Incinerator in 1976, before its demolition (Photograph: City of ) pyrmont

Much of the area had become derelict by the he Pyrmont peninsula belonged 1990s, but developments on former industrial to Sydney’s industrial heartland sites have led to an influx of new residents in in past decades, with its wharves, recent years. goods yards, woolstores and This tour visits key sites in the industrial and maritime factories contributing enormously history of Sydney, as well as exploring an often to the city’s economic wealth. overlooked Sydney community. It is something of a “ghost” tour, as many of the sites no longer exist or have been put to other uses.

Please allow Sydney’s 2 hours for this tour. bad pyrmont history Walk involves stairs and steep In 1806, what the Sydney Gazette inclines. Alternatively you may do it described as a “select party of ladies is all around us. as two shorter tours of (1) Pyrmont and gentlemen” went to the peninsula Our walking tours will lead you and (2) Ultimo. Take advantage of for a picnic. Its lush vegetation, and on a journey of discovery from the Sydney Light Rail and/or Sydney a “pure and unadulterated spring” Monorail to save time. reminded one of the guests of the spa early Aboriginal life through to contemporary Sydney. Start at western end of at Bad Pyrmont in Germany. John Pyrmont Bridge (1). Macarthur, ex-officer of the NSW Corps, who had bought land here, adopted the name. By a curious coincidence, the members of the Gadigal people who then occupied the area called it Pirrama. Clover Moore MP Lord Mayor of Sydney Derelict Pyrmont Baths, c1929 (Photograph: Archives)

Historical Walking Tours — Port / 01. Dawes Point Walsh Bay Tar–ra

Bennelong Point Dubbagullee TOWNS PL

HICKSON RD

LOWER FORT ST HICKSON RD HICKSON WINDMILL ST Sydney Cove Warrane ARGYLE ST

Observatory Hill

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CUMBERLAND ST Farm Cove

HARRINGTON ST REIBY PL Wahganmuggalee HICKSON RD HICKSON

YOUNG ST

LOFTUS ST PHILLIP ST

PITT ST 07 Tumbalong GROSVENOR ST DALLEY ST Royal BRIDGE ST Botanic Gardens

PIRRAMA RD JAMISON ST BENT ST Johnstons Bay SPRING ST Woolloomooloo Bay

MARGARET ST GEORGE ST POINT ST 08 DARLING ISLAND RD PHILLIP LANE WAYS TCE O’CONNELL ST 06 MACQUARIE ST 09 BLIGH ST 10 Wynyard HUNTER ST PIRRAMA RD

D WYLDE ST R ERSKINE ST CARRINGTON ST Y SCOTT ST A ASH ST

REFINERY DRIVE LN YORK B John St S E N HARVEY ST Square O Star BARRACK ST COWPER WHARFST RDWY NEOT AVE BOWMAN ST J 04 MARTIN PL MOUNT ST 05 City 11

SUSSEX ST SUSSEX MCDONALD LN

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R V 15 S E Bay ROCKWALL LN 13 A AU 03 The Domain U N Q DE DISTRIBUTOR WESTERN B R CASTLEREAGH ST ELIZABETH ST ROCKWALL CRES W A S B N ART GALLERY RD IL E K S HARRIS ST EDWARD ST UNION ST S S 34 L TE T T MILLER ST Y R 01 A N R

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02 Galleries TUSCULUM ST ELIZABETH BAY ROAD MURRAY ST Victoria PITT ST CROWN ST ORWELL ST 14 Hyde Park CATHEDRAL ST FORBES ST Convention DRUITT ST Rushcutters Bay PARK ST COLLEGE ST PYRMONT BRIDGE RD RILEY ST EARL ST GRIFFIN PL 17 ST SUSSEX Blackwattle Bay 12B ALLEN ST EGLINTON RD WILLIAM ST

ALEXANDRA ST KENT Jubilee COOK ST Town Hall Wentworth 18 Park ALLEN ST BATHURST ST Park Darling WARD AVE ROSLYN GARDENS WILLIAM ST Harbour AVE RD DARLINGHURST RD

WILMOT ST Kings Cross ROSLYN ST

YURONG ST RILEY ST CENTRAL ST Wentworth Park FARRELL AVE FORSYTH ST ALBION PL STANLEY ST VICTORIA RD BURTON ST FIG ST FRANCIS ST ELIZABETH ST KINGS CROSS RD 12C LIVERPOOL ST

CASTLEREAGH ST MAXWELL ROAD WATTLE ST CRAIGEND ST BELLEVUE ST 20 CLAPTON PL NEW SOUTH HEAD RD BAYVIEW ST BRIDGE RD WENTWORTH PARK RD MANSFIELD ST DARGHAN ST Museum SEALE ST BOURKE ST

FERRY RD HARBOUR ST QUARRY ST World DARLING ST 21 28 Exhibition LOMBARD ST Square VICTORIA ST ARCADIA RD OXFORD ST NIMROD ST BELL ST GLEBE POINT RD JONES ST SURREY STREET PIER ST IER LE P ST LIVERPOOL ST WOMERAH AVENUE LITT GOULBURN ST

RILEY ST POPLAR TOXTETH RD COLBOURNE AVE 22 NITHSDALE ST LYNDHURST ST MCLACHLAN AVE PALMER ST BARCOM AVE GOTTENHAM ST Paddy’s BRISBANE ST NIELD AVE

WENTWORTH ST Markets WAINE ST CROWN ST BURTON ST SUSSEX ST SUSSEX BOYCE ST ST DIXON WILLIAM HENRY ST 25 GEORGE ST

ST JOHNS RD DR DARLING WIGRAM RD 23 HAY ST CAMPBELL ST GOULBURN ST TALFOURD ST PHILLIP ST HACKETT ST WENTWORTH AVE BOUNDARY ST Harold Park BULWARA RD HAY ST FORBES ST MINOGUE CRES BROUGHTON ST Capitol GLENMORE RD 24 GLENMORE RD HEREFORD ST Square Taylor VICTORIA ST MACARTHUR ST ST QUAY Square MACDONALS ST FOSTER ST BARLOWPARKER ST ST CAMPBELL ST

COMMONWEALTHST

JAROCIN AVE ST SMITH DARLINGHURST RD THOMAS ST RESERVOIR ST

KEY LEGEND MARY ANN ST Belmore BROWN ST GLEBE ST ST OCEAN WATTLE ST ULTIMO RD COWPER ST JONES ST TAYLOR ST VALENTINE ST EDDY AVEPark BRIDGE RD ST JOHNS RD Train ANN ST MITCHELL ST GURNER ST CASCADE ST MT VERNON ST DERWENT ST HARRIS ST ROSS ST LODGE ST Light Rail Central

ST BAY PITT ST ELIZABETH ST GLENMORE RD FOREST ST Monorail THOMAS ST

RILEY ST FLINDERS ST FLINDERS

ST CHISHOLM MARY ST NAPIER ST Central Station ALBION ST CATHERINE ST GEORGE ST BOURKE ST Historical Walking Tours — Port / 02. FITZROY ST OXFORD ST BELMORE ST BROADWAY KIPPAX ST BELLEVUE ST ALBION AVE PADDINGTON ST

CORBEN ST PARRAMATTA RD LEE ST ARUNDEL ST SOUTH DOWLING ST KNOX ST FOVEAUX ST ORMOND ST GRAFTON ST CHURCH ST NICHOLS ST

RANDLE ST GREENS RD KENSINGTON ST KENSINGTON COOPER ST HUTCHINSON WATERLOO ST

Sydney University Victoria DEVONSHIRE ST SELWYN ST WILLIAM ST HOLT ST HOLT Park OCONNOR ST RENNY ST BENNETT ST JOSEPHSON ST WELLINGTON LACEY ST

MYRTLE STROSE ST REGENT ST ARTHUR ST PROSPECT ST SHEPHERD ST QUEEN ST MARSHALL ST CROWN ST

PINE ST CHALMERS ST MOORE PARK RD PHELPS ST GORDON ST ELIZABETH ST

BUCKLAND ST MEAGHER ST RAINFORD ST OATLEY RD

ARTHUR ST ABERCROMBIE ST ABERCROMBIE CLEVELAND ST DANGAR PL BUCKINGHAM ST DAVIES ST REGENT ST

BALFOUR ST VINE ST BLACKWATTLE CLISDELL ST HUDSON ST CITY RD CLEVELAND ST VINE ST SHEPHERDBOUNDARY ST ST MAZE CRES JAMES ST EDWARD ST ABERCROMBIE ST REGENT ST JAMES ST CALDER RD HUGO ST ANZAC PDE OXFORD ST

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IVY ST IVY MISSENDEN RD MISSENDEN

LAWSON ST RENWICK ST LANDER ST GEORGE ST CARILLON AVE WILLIAM ST PITT ST CLEVELAND ST DARLINGTON RD EVELEIGH ST LAWSON SQ Moore Park WELLS ST COOK RD

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ELIZABETH ST

Redfern AVE DRIVER REDFERN ST

KING ST GREAT BUCKINGHAM ST

CODRINGTON ST CODRINGTON CLEVELAND ST LANG RD ABERCROMBIE ST TURNER ST BOURKE ST

GIBBONS ST MARGARET WILSON ST ROSEHILL ST ALBERT ST

CORNWALLIS ST

COPE ST

DOUGLAS ST REGENT ST PHILLIP ST

CHALMERS ST LANG RD LOCOMOTIVE ST BAPTIST ST

CENTRAL AVE BURREN ST BURREN RAGLAN ST Macdonaldtown HENDERSON RD

ERSKINVILLE RD SOUTH DOWLING ST Centennial Park

BOTANY RD BOTANY PITT ST PITT

BEAUMONT ST

ST ST GEORGE

ALBERT WALKER ST

WYNDHAM ST WYNDHAM

GARDEN ST GARDEN WELLINGTON ST

GERARD ST GERARD

KINGSCLEAR RD KINGSCLEAR REEVE ST

NEWTON ST NEWTON ALEXANDER ST ALEXANDER

CHARLES ST CHARLES RAILWAY PDE ST PHILLIPS KELLICK ST

ALLEN AVE PARK ST PARK ST

CLARA ST CLARA RENWICK

COPE ST COPE ROBERTSON RD JENNINGS ST ST JOHN ST

SWANSON DIBBS ST LACHLAN ST Erskinville SUTTOR ST COPELAND ST PARK RD PARK POWER AVE DACEY AVE

FOX AVE MCEVOY ST

ELIZABETH ST

ROCHFORD ST FOUNTAIN ST ST PITT

MALCOLM ST ST BRENNAN POWELL ST

GEORGE ST

BRIDGE ST LOVERIDGE

VICTORIA ST ASHMORE ST ST GEORGE ELLIOT AVE ALISON RD

ASHMORE ST ALLEN ST BELMONT ST

MITCHELL RDHARLEY ST LAWRENCE ST AVE STOKES O’DEA AVE O’DEA AVE ANZAC PDE

MACDONALD ST MCCAULEY ST MCCAULEY

MCEVOY ST BOWDEN ST MANDIBLE ST BOURKE ST

FLORA ST TODMAN AVE ELIZABETH ST

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COULSON ST BELMONT ST EUSTON LANE

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HUNTLEY ST JOYNTON AVE ALISON RD BOTANY RD BOTANY MADDOX ST RD

St Peters EUSTON ROAD

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Sydney Park EPSOM RD LENHALT ST Royal

COLLINS ST LINK RD

EPSOM RD PRINCES HWY ALISON RD

CAMPBELL RD DALMENY AVE

EUSTON ROAD

SOUTH DOWLING ST BOURKE RD

ROTHSCHILD AVE MORELY AVE

ROSEBERRY AVE

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HARCOURT PDE

GARDENERS RD PDE ANZAC

BOTANY RD O’RIORDAN ST RICKETTY ST

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GARDENERS RD DALMENY AVE DALMENY PORT pyrmont Historical Walking Tour

01 Pyrmont Bridge 03 Australian National Maritime Museum

The first Pyrmont Bridge (1857) was a low wooden The Australian National Maritime Museum, opened structure with a manually operated centre span. in 1991, was designed by Phillip Cox. The high walls The current Pyrmont Bridge (1902) was once the and diving roof forms were designed to accommodate main route west out of Sydney. Although the 1902 the masts of boats inside the museum. The museum bridge was closed to motor traffic in 1981, it was also contains floating attractions including the ex-RAN saved from demolition and now carries the monorail Oberon class submarine Onslow, moored next to and pedestrians to Darling Harbour. Because of its the Daring Class destroyer Vampire. Historic vessels significance as one of the largest and one of the first visiting Sydney tie up here. electrically operated swing bridges in the world, and because of the superb design of ’s timber girder approach spans, it was declared a National Engineering Landmark in 1992.

Darling Harbour in the early 1990s, showing the newly completed Australian National Maritime Museum (Photograph: Adrian Hall/ City of Sydney Archives)

Horse and cart traffic across the Pyrmont Bridge (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives) Turn right and walk along Murray Street and through Pyrmont Bay Park. There is pedestrian access around the finger wharves. Cross Pirrama Road to Jones Bay Road and walk uphill to (4) and (5). 02 Former Rail Line and Goods Yard, now Darling Harbour Complex 04 Star City, FORMER Pyrmont Powerhouse

Darling Harbour, showing railway goods yards and Sheds, c1910 (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

The Darling Harbour goods yards became important in the 1870s with the growth of the wool industry and the construction of many woolstores on the peninsula. Other industries took advantage of this intersection between rail and shipping for exporting and importing, and by 1918 there were sidings all the way to the end of the Pyrmont peninsula as well as a rail loop (now the Sydney Light Rail). The growth of road freight meant Powerhouse in 1919 that by the early 1980s the great woolstores emptied, (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives) the goods yards fell into disuse, and businesses in the area languished. Massive redevelopment of the area Star City is on the site of the Pyrmont Powerhouse; since the 1980s created Sydney’s Darling Harbour the original façade is preserved on Pyrmont Street. which includes the Chinese Gardens, Harbourside Sydney’s first electric street lights twinkled to life with Shopping Complex and the Australian National the opening of the Powerhouse in 1904. Star City, Maritime Museum. opened 1997, contains a casino, theatres, restaurants and a hotel.

Historical Walking Tours — Port / 03. PORT pyrmont Historical Walking Tour

05 St Bede’s Catholic Church 07 Pyrmont Baths site

Most of the stone for Harbour baths were built at Pyrmont Point in 1875. the tiny St Bede’s was In 1901 the swimming basin was enlarged and quarried locally. Catholic deepened, with a smart shore building containing 85 stonecutters, masons, dressing boxes, showers, club rooms, refreshment builders and labourers rooms and a gym. The pool was tidal, and the floor worked on it voluntarily, was sand. One resident remembered: “You could completing it in 1867. see the bottom, clear as you like. We used to catch yabbies in that pool”. Pyrmont Baths became a central meeting place for amenity-starved residents of St Bede’s, Pyrmont Pyrmont and Ultimo. When the Baths were threatened (Photograph: Mitchell Library, State Library of NSW) with demolition in 1929, the locals took over their administration and kept them going for another 17 Retrace your steps along Jones Bay Road to Pirrama Road, cross years before they were finally demolished. Pyrmont over to reach the former Darling Island (6). Point Park was created in 1995. At the water’s edge is the sculptural installation Tied to Tide by Jennifer Turpin and Michaelie Crawford, which rises and falls 06 darling island with the tides.

Darling Island was originally separated from the mainland by a mud flat, which was first bridged by a causeway in the 1840s. From 1851, the Australian Steam Navigation Company (ASNC) occupied the island, steadily reclaiming land around the causeway, so that by the 1870s the island had become a peninsula. Ships were built and repaired here until the 1890s. The NSW government bought the site, and wharves and rail links were built to handle wheat and coal shipments. From 1951, the wharf known as “Pyrmont 13” was the first landfall in for hundreds of thousands of post-war immigrants. On the western side are two tall buildings constructed for the Navy between 1903 and 1912, the Ordnance Stores and the Royal Edward Victualling Yard. Derelict Pyrmont Baths, c1929 (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

Take the steps up to Gibba Park to enjoy panoramic views of the 08 harbour. Alternatively, retrace your steps along Pirrama Road and take the lift up to the Park. Then walk on to Point Street. On your right at the corner of Bowman Street is a fine house, formerly the Caledonian Hotel c1880 (08). On your left, at 12–20 Point Street is the Ways Terrace (09).

09 Ways Terrace flats

These flats were built by the City Council in the 1920s as workers’ housing. They were designed by Leslie Wilkinson, whose architectural contribution to Sydney continues to be commemorated by an annual lecture at Sydney University. Walk through for a view across to the city.

Docked ship at Darling Island (Photograph: State Library of NSW) Go down Bowman Street past a row of old terrace houses, turn left at Cross Street, then right into Scott Street (10). Continue left along Pirrama Road until it curves around left to reach Pyrmont Point Park, former site of the Pyrmont Baths (7), and Tied to Tide sculptural installation.

Historical Walking Tours — Port / 04. PORT pyrmont Historical Walking Tour

10 scott Street CSR in Pyrmont The Colonial Sugar Refining Company (CSR) first acquired land at Pyrmont in 1878, and eventually This little group of 1870s houses with corner shop owned 31 acres (77 hectares). Houses and streets was supposed to be demolished for a factory back —such as Jones Street between Bowman Street and in the 1950s. They were then bought by the City the harbour—disappeared as CSR expanded. CSR Council, which also had grand plans for the precinct in provided thousands of jobs, some of them unpleasant, the 1970s, but squatters moved in, politics took hold dangerous and unhealthy. Products included not only and eventually the buildings were saved. Artists have sugar, golden syrup and molasses from the refinery painted them over the years. but industrial alcohol and rum from the distillery, and particle board from the caneite factory. Operations were finally wound down by the early 1990s, and much of the former CSR site is now occupied by the Jacksons Landing residential development. Look out for interpretive signs in the precinct.

Turn left and walk to the end of Mount Street. For a shorter walk, head down the stairs to (lower) Mount Street. Otherwise turn right for the Clifftop Walk. This area formed part of the CSR site. At the end of the Clifftop Walk, go down the stairs or ramp to Quarry Master Drive. Turn right and follow the cliff to inspect a face of “yellow block” sandstone (12A), once part of Saunders’ Paradise quarry. Saunders’ quarrying operations were awarded an Historic Engineering Marker in 2005 commemorated with a plaque.

12 Quarry Sites

The tough quality of Pyrmont sandstone was well known by 1855. When the entrance and steps of the (Photograph: John Prescott) had to be replaced, the Colonial Architect insisted that the stone must come from the “best bed of the Pyrmont Quarries”. Buildings using Pyrmont stone include Sydney University, the General Post Office and the Art Gallery of NSW, along 11 John Street School with many other government buildings, insurance companies and banks. The quarries would provide many jobs, but would contribute to changing the The main two-story block peninsula from an attractive retreat to having a blasted, was built 1891–92. It treeless appearance. “Paradise” Quarry (12a) was was designed by William one of several run by the Saunders family, along with Kemp, the NSW Architect “Purgatory” (12b) and “Hell Hole” (12c). for Schools, who was also responsible for the Technical College Block in Mary Anne Street and Technical Museum in Harris Street. As well as education, John Street provided amenities. It was only at school that many children were able to have showers and proper baths, and the building of Boys in Pyrmont, 1916 the school gymnasium in 1919 (Photograph: was a boon to the budding City of Sydney Archives) champion athletes of Pyrmont. But from a peak of 650 students in 1920, the number fell to 245 in 1933 as houses were demolished for woolstores and flour mills, and the school was closed. It is now a community centre. Saunders’ Northern Quarries, Town and Country Journal, 8 December 1883 (Image: City of Sydney Archives)

Historical Walking Tours — Port / 05. PORT pyrmont Historical Walking Tour

13 To take a detour to the site of the Griffin Destructor (13) and 17 You can end your Pyrmont tour here by turning left onto Pyrmont the Fish Markets (14) continue down Quarry Master Drive to Bridge Road and returning to Pyrmont Bridge (01). Alternatively, to the right. Otherwise retrace your steps past the stairs, and walk take a tour of Ultimo. Continue down Harris Street to Allen Street. through the gap in the building on your left. This path follows the Ahead are the former Pitt, Son and Badgery No. 1 Woolstores 14 dramatic sandstone escarpment and links back to (lower) Mount (17), followed by Goldsbrough Mort Woolstores (18). Street. Turn left into Miller Street and proceed to Harris Street, crossing over to reach the War Memorial (15).

13 Detour: PYRMONT INCINERATOR SITE The residents of Pyrmont already had to deal with smoke from the Pyrmont and Ultimo Powerhouses in 1932 when Sydney City Council decided to build its new garbage incinerator at Pyrmont. The incinerator was designed by Walter Burley Griffin, the designer of Canberra, and his wife Marion Mahony Griffin, and was a stunningly modern cubist-inspired building with richly decorative detailed work based on Aztec motifs. It was decommissioned in 1971 and fell into disrepair, then was demolished in 1992 to make way for the large block of home units that now occupy the site. Previously on this site was “Tinkers Well”, where Aboriginal people continued to camp and gather cockles and oysters as late as the 1830s. It was one of the landmarks that disappeared as the cliffs were quarried back. Pitt, Son and Badgery No. 1 Woolstores (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

15 War Memorial 18 Goldsbrough Mort Woolstores

Of the 750 local men who enlisted during World War I, 150 died and many more were wounded. In 1883, Richard Goldsbrough built a warehouse in All men who served are listed on the War Memorial, Pyrmont Street for storing thousands of bales of wool. which is topped by an angel of peace holding a By World War II, 20 multi-storey warehouses had been shield bearing the legend “Their name liveth for built in Pyrmont and Ultimo to cater for what was then evermore”. It was sculpted by Gilbert Doble. Australia’s major export industry. Goldsbrough’s store used hydraulic goods and passenger lifts, and had the largest floor area of any building in the colony, Facing Harris Street, turn left and walk to Bridge Road. On with its own railway siding. It burned down in 1935 either side of Harris Street are two historic Pubs (16). and the present building went up on the site. By the beginning of the 1970s the woolstores had begun to empty as the wool brokers relocated activities to the 16 pubs new Yennora Wool Centre, west of Parramatta. The Goldsborough Mort Woolstores were converted into apartments in 1995.

The Pyrmont peninsula once boasted 25 pubs, with each industrial concern and wool store having its own associated hotel. The name of the Quarryman’s Arms 19 woolstores is a reminder of one the earliest major industries on the Pyrmont peninsula. The Dunkirk was originally to Other woolstores in the area include: Schute Bell (19), known as the Butcher’s Arms, while nearby Bank Winchcombe Carson (20), Commonwealth Wool and Street was once known as Abattoir Road. 25 Produce No. 1 (21) and No. 2 (22), New Zealand Loan & Mercantile (23), Farmers and Graziers No. 1 (24) and No. 2 (25).

Your tour of Pyrmont ends here. Walk up to William Henry Street and follow it along until you reach Harris Street. Turn right at the corner and continue south towards Broadway. This is the start of the City of Sydney’s walking tour of Ultimo called “Renewal”. To get back to town, either retrace your steps to Pyrmont Bridge, or take the monorail or light rail from the Paddy’s Market Station, just behind the at 500 Harris Quarryman’s Arms 1911 Street, back to the city and Central Railway Station. (Photograph: City of Sydney Archives)

Historical Walking Tours — Port / 06. historical walking tours

Discover more of historic Sydney with the other walking tour brochures in this series.

More information can be found at the City’s website: www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/history or call the City of Sydney on 9265 9333 We welcome your feedback: [email protected]

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This brochure was prepared by the History Program at the City of Sydney. 6th edition, November 2011. HWT 8