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From diners to dim sum, 39 ways FreshBoston is revolutionizing the most important mealStarts of the day. edited by Christopher Hughes | photographs by Jim Brueckner WORLDWIDE ’WICHES ENGLISH SPANISH SCOTTISH here in new england, we’ve always been we can wake up to a traditional Japanese prix fixe. Our classic glazed From bocadillos to buns brim- Toad in the hole at Alden & Bocadillo at Toro. This perpet- Breakfast sandwich at the THE BEST big believers in the first meal of the day. Hell, we doughnuts have been replaced by airy rounds blanketed with dulce ming with Teutonic meat loaf, here 1 Harlow. Chef Michael Scelfo 2 ually packed tapas spot 3 Haven. Loosen your kilt BREAKFASTS practically invented it. Last night’s boiled dinners de leche. Even that ubiquitous Sunday favorite, the bloody mary, has are seven of our favorite globe- reimagines the British classic, presses together house-made coppa before binging on this brunch spe- IN BOSTON spanning breakfast sandwiches. crowning buttery croissant bread and salt-cured pork neck with egg, cialty: brioche coddling a flat sau- became corned beef hash. In the 19th century, Dutch been improved upon with one restaurant’s mobile arsenal of house- Because, hey, it’s always 7 a.m. with slow-poached egg, bacon jam, pickles, potatoes, and Idiazábal, a sage patty, fried egg, potato scone, olykoeks were transformed into the modern dough- made pickles, jerkies, and bacon-fat-washed spirits. somewhere. —Scott Kearnan and Gracenote-coffee-based gravy. smoky Basque sheep’s-milk cheese. and chive-speckled Cotswold. nut by Elizabeth Gregory and her seafaring family. Lunch wagons To find all the fare worth setting your alarm for, we scoured every GERMAN COLOMBIAN MEXICAN TURKISH evolved into dining cars on the streets of Providence. And we all diner, bakery, and weekend brunch bistro from here to the ’burbs. Egg and leberkäse at Egg and carne arepa at the Breakfast torta at Mike & Egg sandwich at Sofra. Ana know what beverage America runs on today. Prepare to rise and dine with the best of the early-bird canon. 4 Karl’s Sausage Kitchen. 5 Middle Gray. The creative 6 Patty’s. This Bay Village spot 7 Sortun’s Cambridge bakery But now, thanks to an influx of globally influenced techniques and Indulge your Deutscher side with sammies at Brookline’s new café/art may have new owners, but there are proffers this bacon-and-halloumi- leberkäse (beef, pork, and veal gallery include this arepa stuffed with still lines out the door for its famed cheese-draped masterpiece— flavors, we’re no longer beholden to scrambled eggs, “coffee regulars,” With additional reporting by Jacqueline Cain, Brittany Jasnoff, Scott loaf) topped with egg and caramel- brisket, farmer’s cheese, and hogao, torta with fried eggs, pickled jalapeño, its brioche brushed with vibrant and combo plates. These days, without leaving our neighborhoods­ , Kearnan, and Chris Sweeney. ized onions. a tomato-and-green-onion sauce. avocado, and mashed black beans. feta butter.

74 BOSTON | FEBRUARY 2016 BOSTONMAGAZINE.COM 75 Financial District fantasy: wheeling and dealing WHEELHOUSE over a leisurely power breakfast. Financial District BURGER reality: praying there’s time to scarf down some- thing before your blood sugar plummets like the Dow Jones. Enter the breakfast burger (pictured) at 63 Broad St., Wheelhouse, a speedy counter-service spot. Avail- Boston, able until 3 p.m., it comes swaddled in a palm-size 617-422-0082. paper sleeve, perfect for harried corporate strivers on the go. But, time permitting, we suggest linger- ing over each coffee-crusted patty layered with bacon, cheese, and fried egg—­ something that’d run down to your loafers, if you let it.

BREAKFAST BACK HOME Rob Corddry CINQUECENTO WEYMOUTH SUN KONG Actor, Childrens Hospital ITALIAN and Ballers For the type-A bruncher, there’s no DIM SUM better weekend spot than Cinquecento, “I usually eat at the with its restorative Roman spread and We can all agree that dim sum is the ideal cure- Gourmet Dump- all for the indecisive and the weekend woozy. ling House, where I front-row access to The arguments begin when we try to decide have whatever-the- 500 Harrison SoWa market. The Ave., Boston, hell kind of meat $12 prix fixe is a steal, where to go. China Pearl? Hei La Moon? Win- they’ve taken the 617-338-9500. sor Dim Sum Café? How about a sprawling res- care to wrap up in but the real attrac- taurant/keno lounge in Malden? No joke. Sun perfectly pan-fried tion here is the parma cotto, which fea- dough. Then I walk it Kong—its pushcarts overflowing with crispy- off nearby, taking in tures creamed spinach in a nutmeg-laced tender turnip cakes, bamboo steamers shelter- what used to be the pecorino béchamel, slivers of rosemary ing the most succulent shumai, and pot after Combat Zone.” Leoncini ham, and two fried eggs. Feel head-clearing pot of sweetened chrysanthemum free to leisurely soak up every last yolky tea—has now eclipsed Chinatown’s big three. remnant, because with five hours of free Fair warning: Servers can be stingy with offal parking, there’s no rush to join the vintage- and other adventurous proteins, so order those hunting hordes. braised chicken feet with conviction. 275 East- ern Ave., Malden, 781-388-9900.

TOWNSMAN Townsman itself, a badge of honor for any harissa-spiked chicharrones, a teepee of 1 BAGELS 2 STICKY BUN dyed-in-the-wool New Englander. But gravy-soaked chicken-fried hanger steak Carb Crawl CHICKEN AND WAFFLES Better Bagels: Track- Flour: The “goo”-shrouded come Saturday morning, Jennings likes to sheltering a five-minute egg, and pickle- A roundup of the best in everything doughy, crumbly, ing down James Grimes’s icon that slayed Bobby Chef Matt Jennings has never been shy shake things up, bringing a regional touch brined fried chicken thighs (pictured) cream-filled, and sugar-shellacked. Shield your eyes, exquisite New York–style Flay and became its own about brandishing regional pride: His to soul-warming southern staples. The partnered with pumpkin waffles and a bagels, currently available Pinkberry flavor is still our only at weekend pop-ups, is favorite sugar rush in town, Pats hat is as much a part of his uniform results are gloriously South by Northeast: piquant maple pipérade. 120 Kingston St., Paleo dieters, lest you be converted to the carb side. well worth the extra Twitter predawn, post-lunch, or as an apron. And then there’s the name cheesy Anson Mills grits stippled with Boston, 617-993-0750. HERE CREDIT GOES PHOTO CORDDRY OF ROB COURTESY PORTRAIT BY CHRISTOPHER HUGHES vigilance. really any time of the day.

PHOTOGRAPH BY NAME GOESHERE BOSTONMAGAZINE.COM 77 CATALYST NEIGHBORHOOD FIXTURE BLOODY MARY Gruel & Unusual The bloody mary has been a part of our 1 What’s the secret behind the Neighbor- Sunday routine since circa 1900, when hood’s cream of wheat, the most sought-after some crazy bastard looked at a can of 2 cauldron of porridge since Oliver Twist? stewed tomatoes and saw a panacea

BY JACQUELINE CAIN 3 for the dreaded hangover: a dialectical delicacy that’s both a drink and a meal, eople always guess butter,” says the impetus as well as the antidote. Sheila Borges-Foley, whisking equal Sure, modern-day garnishes have gone amounts of farina and sugar into a a little overboard—we’re looking at bubbling 5-gallon pot of cream of you, cheeseburger ­headdress—but we Pwheat. A complimentary first course since her have been wowed by Kendall Square family opened its Union Square restaurant in barkeep Curtis Hancock’s ingenious 1983, the papas has developed a near-mythical 4 5 6 bloody mary cart. His cabinet of won- reputation locally. Borges-Foley explains that ders harbors several house-infused A seductive alternative for the Benedict-fatigued, the porridge accumulates flavor like a stew or spirits, skewers of jerky, and a battery LOYAL NINE Loyal Nine’s lobster popover (pictured) part- sourdough starter, simmering in a Crock-Pot of briny goods, all mixed tableside. ALT BENEDICT ners poached eggs, sweet shellfish, and a pool for up to seven hours. And like the free trem- Here, a look at just some of the bespoke of smoked hollandaise, all astraddle a split shell oços her father offered at his tavernas in Portu- options. 300 Technology Sq., Cam- of eggy-rich bread. But what sorcery makes for gal, there’s a mouth-watering hint of salt. As she 7 bridge, 617-576-3000. 8 660 Cambridge St., the perfect popover, a dish inspired by the Sun- bounces between stations in her subterranean Cambridge, day suppers of Marc Sheehan’s Massachusetts kitchen, the amiable chef admits to opaque KEY 617-945-2576. childhood? The chef credits the Ossabaw pork quantities of whole milk and cinnamon, but fat that’s mixed into the dough—just one of the otherwise she remains mum on the Neighbor- 1. Lime, lemon, and 10. Pickled eggs piquillo peppers many nose-to-tail applications Sheehan utilizes with his weekly allot- hood’s signature dish. “Only because it doesn’t 11. Cocktail olives 2. Cocktail onions ment of Vermont-raised swine. matter,” Borges-Foley says. “It’s the simplest 9 10 11 12 12. Skewers 3. Vermont cheddar 13. Tabasco ingredients on God’s earth.” Maybe so, but there cheese 14. Pickle brine has to be something more than just the pro- 4. Celery 15. Worcestershire BREAKFAST BACK HOME tracted cooking time. “It’s here, it’s warm, it’s 5. Beef jerky sauce BREWER’S FORK Taylor Schilling comforting,” she says. “The fact that people wait 6. Bacon 16. Jalapeño pickle WEST ROXBURY to get in here amazes us always. We don’t want 7. Sriracha-cream- brine BREAKFAST PIZZA 13 Actress, Orange Is you to be starving. We want you to be happy.” cheese-stuffed 17. Cornichons olives With a custom-built Le Panyol wood-fired the New Black 14 18. House-made 25 Bow St., Somerville, 617-623-9710. 8. Pickled okra oven as chef John Paine’s lone cooking ves- 15 17 bloody mary mix 9. Grey Goose vodka sel, pizza will always command top billing­ at “Rox Diner on Cen- 16 19. Tomato juice tre Street is where Brewer’s Fork—no matter breakfast is hap- 7 Moulton St., the time of day. On Sunday pening. Their French Charlestown, toast is always good.” 617-337-5703. mornings, that means sour- dough pies heaped with everything from fennel sausage to runny eggs oozing between channels of home fries. Not to be missed is the “Dude-Bro,” a decon- structed Jersey-style breakfast sandwich with pork roll (from Moody’s in Waltham); Tabasco-infused ketchup; and a mixture of mozzarella and American cheese, something the chef likens to “a low-rent Mornay sauce.” 18

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3 DOUGHNUTS 4 TROPEZIENNE 5 CHOCOLATE PRETZEL 6 FRENCH TOAST 7 BIALYS Moody’s: With baker Luke Café Madeleine: We com- CROISSANT Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bagelsaurus: The bagel’s Fetbroth at the helm, mend chef Frederic Robert Puritan & Company: Puri- Bar: Chef Matt Drummond­ unsung cousin gets center Moody’s fluffy, yeast-raised for turning Saint-Tropez’s tan’s sweeping sweets table goes big—very big—with stage thanks to Mary Ting doughnuts are now as much most storied pastry—­pillowy at brunch is now even better dulce de leche–topped, Hyatt, who bakes 40 glori- of a morning draw as chef brioche, candied orange thanks to this salt-flecked, cinnamon-vanilla-custard- ous rounds a morning in fla- Joshua Smith’s addictive peel, and vanilla cream—into Cacao Barry chocolate– sopped slices of vors like bacon-cheddar and

pork-roll sandwiches. our new breakfast habit. stuffed croissant. Texas toast. roasted-shallot-and-fennel. SCHILLING OF TAYLOR COURTESY PORTRAIT HERE CREDIT GOES PHOTO

78 BOSTON | FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY NAME GOESHERE Ode to the New England Diner Award-winning food and travel writer MIKE URBAN delves into the regional foods and family-owned landmarks that distinguish the roadside diner in New England.

sk anyone from a Mid-Atlantic state to describe their favorite diner, and you’re bound to hear Rosebud American Kitchen & Bar Buddy’s South Street Diner about 24-hour shiny chrome Somerville | Built: 1941 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. Somerville | Built: 1929 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. Boston | Built: 1947 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. jointsA and bargain hash browns. But here in New England, a.k.a. the birthplace of the American diner, you’re more likely to get an earful about regional specialties—johnnycakes, red flannel hash, or lobster eggs Benedict—and the quirky, multigenerational family-owned environs in which they’re served. Some of the country’s first and most distinctive diners were built locally by the Worcester Lunch Car Company, whose ear- lier models resembled the lunch wagons from whence they came: wheeled convey- ances that were parked in front of factories and the Providence Journal, where second- Deluxe Town Diner Kelly’s Diner The Breakfast Club and third-shift workers got hot, affordable Watertown | Built: 1947 | Paramount Diners and Worcester Lunch Car Co. Somerville | Built: 1953 | Jerry O’Mahoney Diner Co. Allston | Built: 1952 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. food in the late 1800s. Worcester Lunch Car Company began building its diners in 1906, producing some 650 units before it shut down in 1961. The several dozen that remain today—including the Rosebud in Somerville—are­ instantly recognizable thanks to their unique railcar exteriors and barrel-roofed,­ wood-paneled, and ceramic-tiled interiors. Many even continue to sport signs advertising “Booth Service,” a relic from a time when it was considered unladylike to sit at the counter. Equipped with a gas-fired griddle, they’re tailor-made for the breakfast rush. This magical medium allows cooks to Lloyd’s Diner Wilson’s Diner Agawam Diner simultaneously crisp bacon, fold omelets, Framingham | Built: 1942 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. Waltham | Built: 1949 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. Rowley | Built: 1954 | Fodero Dining Car Co. and manage a mound of home fries in the corner. Like the open kitchens of today, din- ers were often designed to prominently fea- ture this griddle so counter-perched guests could enjoy a live culinary demonstration of spatula-wielding prowess. So the next time you hear someone wax poetic about those New York/New Jersey diners, nod politely and take comfort in the fact that not only did we start the whole phenomenon, we perfected it. Now pass the linguiça, and maybe some of that clam hash.

Al Mac’s Diner Boulevard Diner The Salem Diner 80 BOSTON | FEBRUARY 2016 Fall River | Built: 1953 | DeRaffele ManufacturingPHOTOGRAPH Co.BY NAME GOESHERE Worcester | Built: 1936 | Worcester Lunch Car Co. Salem | Built: 1941 | SterlingBOSTONMAGAZINE.COM Co. 81 Early Birds at the Diner At this Brookline institution, come for the hubcap-size pancakes, stay for the tight- knit community that orbits around each spinner stool. BY LEAH MENNIES

he block of Beacon Street that faces the St. Mary’s T stop is a micro- cosm of sorts for the rapid gentrifi- cation taking hold in Brookline and T­Boston—what was once a Johnnie’s Foodmas- ter is now a petite Whole Foods; a casual sushi spot has morphed into an international Japa- nese grilling chain; and a dress shop has become a high-end yoga studio. When Juliet opens this spring in Union Square, But there’s one spot that refuses to budge: JULIET you’ll want to score a chair square in front of Josh the Busy Bee, a family-owned Greek diner GLOBAL Lewin’s open kitchen. There, and only there— with aquamarine vinyl-upholstered seats and at one of six prized counter seats—can you take a woefully outdated television set. You won’t PRIX FIXE advantage of the chef’s globe-spanning prix-fixe find the intricate pastries of the chic Tatte Bak- 257 Washington St., breakfast spreads (pictured). Think a Japanese- ery across the street—here, you come for blue- Somerville, inspired banquet complete with grilled fish and sea berry pancakes the size of your face, eggs fried 617-781-0958. urchin, or a dazzling French fete with pain perdu, to order in a single skillet, and toast that arrives saffron butter, and caviar. Each multicourse meal is swimming in Country Crock (unless you’ve bookended by complimentary treats like cardamom-chickpea cookies, matcha remembered to order it “dry”). service, or tea made from leaves dried in-house. Because here, however anachronistic the presentation, Busy Bee’s food is hardly the point. The magic of the establishment comes BREAKFAST BACK HOME from the unique, nearly 50-years-strong eco- Eliza Dushku HOJOKO system organically built and maintained by WATERTOWN HOTEL BREAKFAST Peter Christakis, 78, who bought the diner in Actress, Banshee 1967, and his wife, Frances, 73. Son Chris, mean- At the Verb, a former HoJo turned bou- while, helps run the business and has worked “There are so many tique hotel, vintage Smith-Coronas and old the short-order station since the late ’80s, while great places in ­Boston Phoenix covers take the place of Watertown! A long- a loyal crew of cooks and waitresses have been time family favorite fruit-bowl still lifes and slinging corned beef hash for decades. has been the Deluxe 1271 Boylston St., other hospitality cli- Boston, Peter Christakis’s brusque, notoriously Town Diner. I have a chés. So it makes sense regular dish: veggie 617-670-0507. ornery demeanor has certainly led to more sweet-potato hash, that Hojoko, the Verb’s than a few offended Yelpers over the years. But eggs, nutty-berry culinary alter-ego, would renounce the typi- buttered toast, and cal continental breakfast in favor of plates that hardly matters when your core clientele is a side of their unique made up of longtime regulars—a group that has ‘ployes’ pancakes.” with more heft and irreverence. Here, guests included everyone from Howie Carr and Peter are free to entertain their childlike tenden- Wolf to Whitey Bulger cronies Steve Flemmi cies (Lucky Charms), nurse a hangover (via and Frank Salemme—who couldn’t care less freshly pressed “detox” juice), or satisfy about sussing out the hottest artisanal any- their inner gourmand (with sprouted-wheat thing. And it’s for this group that Christakis and pancakes with real Vermont maple syrup). company provide a true public service. “There’s a lot of lonely people who come Waitress Donna Antonios Regular Jim Riordan has For breakfast, waitress Chris Christakis joined the Kim Goodman, who began has worked at Busy Bee for been coming in for ham and Melissa Scolaro swears by diner full time as a short- eating at the diner as a here because they feel that it’s their home—they more than 25 years. Her most eggs about three times a the hash. “It’s just the most order cook after graduating young college graduate belong here,” says waitress Donna Antonios, 8 HOECAKES 9 STUFFED BRIOCHE 10 TOAST memorable moment involves week for 15 years. “When amazing hash I ever had. from Northeastern Univer- close to two decades ago, who has worked at the diner for a quarter- regular Joe Reels (now you walk in, they give you And I don’t just say that sity in the late ’80s. Since now drives over from Cam- The Frogmore: Lowcountry Canto 6 Bakery: Torn Forge Baking Company: deceased), who celebrated the newspaper and they because I work here. It’s he started, “everything is bridge to visit weekly with century. “And I mean, sometimes they get on champion Jason Albus has between savory Gruyère- Believe me, we’re all weary his 100th birthday at the know which newspaper you really freaking good. Ask for pretty much the same. That her four-year-old son, Jack. our nerves and we’re like, ‘Please, would you given us an authentic take injected croissants and of the avocado-toast hype. diner. “A guy donated a lim- want,” he says. “It’s easy. It’s it crispy, which is well done.” range, it’s gotta be at least His order? A slice of wheat be quiet?’ But most of the time we must make on these southern, corn- burnished brioche brimming That’s why we’ll stick with ousine. Peter bought a huge simple.” 60 years old.” toast with cream cheese meal-laden flapjacks, com- with Brie and apricot jam? Nick Hays’s challah trowelled cake. And we all sang happy and scrambled eggs, which them feel pretty welcome, because they keep plete with sorghum butter Don’t be so hard on yourself: with Nutella, maple butter, birthday to him,” she says. he calls the “I don’t know.” TRINH TOAN BY PORTRAIT coming back.” and marmalade. Order both. and house-made jams.

82 BOSTON | FEBRUARY 2016 BOSTONMAGAZINE.COM 83 KIRKLAND TAP & TROTTER BREAKFAST SCRAMBLE Adding hot-dog chunks to a dish? Sounds like the kind of culinary move you’d expect from a concessionaire at a monster-truck rally. But that’s exactly what chef Tony Maws has done over at Kirkland Tap & Trotter, where he’s crafted a brunch masterpiece around the vir- tues of the ballpark tube steak. Buoyed by a heaping helping of potatoes, parsnip, poached eggs, and lemony hollandaise, Maws’s hash is further elevated with a house-made frankfurter built from spicy pork sausage, fatback, and grass-fed chuck. Hey, one man’s guilty pleasure In Vietnam, pho is far more likely to be eaten street- is another’s marvelous morning treasure. PHO SO 1 side, in the wee hours of the morning, than at night. 425 Washington St., Somerville, 857-259-6585. LIQUID That’s why, along Dorchester Avenue in the heart of Boston’s Vietnamese community, noodle shops AREA FOUR JUMP-START typically open by 9 a.m. It’s hard to go wrong with HANGOVER HELPER 223 Adams St., any number of pho destinations along the half-mile Dorchester, stretch between Ronan Park and Doherty-Gibson When a night of revelry leaves your stomach 617-436-8888. Playground, but we’re hooked on Pho So 1’s bal- in shambles, seek relief in Area Four’s delec- anced bowls brimming with tender round, crisp table “Hot Mess” of a morning-after remedy— tripe, and a cilantro-laden broth. We’d recommend splattering it with a hit of knuckle-size hunks of sausage, fatty cuts of sambal, chasing it with a salted lemonade, and taking in the space’s waterfall bacon, home fries, and two sunny-side-up eggs. motif—which is guaranteed to help you brave the day with a smile. A quilt of pickled-banana-pepper relish helps cut through the dome of starchy, salty excess and adds a tangy undercurrent that sets it apart BREAKFAST BACK HOME from similar hungry-man feasts. If this calo- THE BANCROFT Dana White rie bomb can’t cure what ails you, turn to the STEAK AND EGGS SOUTH BOSTON cocktail list, grab a Death in the Afternoon— President, UFC absinthe and prosecco—and admit defeat. The region’s best new steakhouse isn’t in 500 Technology Sq., Cambridge, 617-758-4444. Boston, but Burlington. And chef Mario “The Seapoint in Capone, former right-hand man to the South Boston has HIGHLAND KITCHEN the best steak tips Hub’s grand culinary doy- on earth, and for 15 Third Ave., enne, Lydia Shire, doesn’t Sunday breakfast SOUTHERN COMFORT Burlington, slouch just because he’s they have tips and Down-home comfort food is Highland Kitch- 781-221-2100. eggs. Plus I love the serving breakfast. The atmosphere—it’s en’s raison d’être, and at brunch, it begins with chef’s brunch skirt steak, accompanied by very nostalgic of the sugar-dusted beignets, porcine greens, and a creamy Anson Mills grits, roasted toma- Southie I remember.” well-constructed Hemingway daiquiri. But toes, and a fried egg, is a perfectly pre- what brings us back is the decadent Dirty Bird pared chop. Slicing into the lightly charred sandwich: peppery fried chicken, bacon, and a exterior yields luscious pink bites, ideal for fried egg doused with a ladleful of sausage gravy. swabbing through an eye-opening reduc- The bluegrass breakdowns, emanating from a tion of wasabi butter spiked with the slight- trio tucked into a corner booth, add charm— est hint of soy. as does the boisterous service, spearheaded by omnipresent chef-owner Mark Romano. 150 Highland Ave., Somerville, 617-625-1131.

COMEDOR Much like their eclectic dinner menu, Jakob and French toast (pictured) we’ve ever tasted: a thick 11 KOLACHES 12 KOUIGN-AMANN 13 CRAQUELIN 14 PANCAKES 15 BISCUITS AND GRAVY Fernanda White’s Sunday-brunch lineup skews slab of brioche drowning under chocolate ganache Playska: Kolaches have Ames Street Deli: Co-owner Cutty’s: Pastry maestro Centre Street Café: Under Island Creek Oyster Bar: LATIN AMERICAN been tragically absent from Diana Kudayarova’s take on Daisy Chow is upping the its new regime, Centre ICOB maintains biscuit Chilean—with a saccharine dose of Americana and a molten pillow of toasted meringue. In keep- the local vernacular. Enter the Breton specialty—that a.m. game at Cutty’s with this Street’s brunch has gained sovereignty with this but- thrown in for good measure. That means you’ll find ing with the restaurant’s small-plates ethos, it’s Tim Wiechmann, who now bronzed whorl of laminated Belgian brioche, which gets even more worshipers at the termilk specimen slathered manchego-stuffed omelets andmechada -topped suitable for sharing—although chances are, you’ll offers up to 11 varieties a day dough—is melt-in-your- an acidic snap courtesy of altar of pancakes “del giorno,” with sausage gravy and a at his new Balkan street- mouth buttery. And that’s a citrus-scented sugar cubes including the banana-Nutella fried egg. bagels sharing real estate with apple-cider dough- want to keep it all for yourself. 105 Union St., New- food joint. good thing. tucked into the center. with coffee butter. WHITE OF DANA COURTESY PORTRAIT HERE CREDIT GOES PHOTO nuts and the most unapologetically gluttonous ton Centre, 857-404-0260.

84 BOSTON | FEBRUARY 2016 PHOTOGRAPH BY NAME GOESHERE