36 TRAVEL n n The Sunday Sun n January 5, 2014

SUN TRAVEL ONLINE New on our websites: Stick with your NEW ORLEANS: resolutions at From Nawlins to NOLA, City. not surprisingly, the another popular place to take nurse a hangover? some of my favourite post- these destinations few other cities have as many majestic St. Louis Cathedral photographs is the cathedral’s a: new Orleans might relish its hangover breakfast joints, Good intentions. They nicknames as New Orleans. If in Jackson Square is the rear wall at night, where you’ll party town image, but if you such as the Old Coffeepot come around every you’re planning to let the good most-photographed landmark spy the giant — somewhat imbibe all night a hangover is restaurant for seafood year and are practically times roll in 2014, there is no in town. Its likeness has haunting — shadow of the an unfortunate probability. My omelettes, yo Mama’s Bar and better place to do that than appeared in countless books, open-armed Jesus statue that favourite spot in the Quarter Grill for enormous burgers, synonymous with the Crescent City. Travel writer movies, and TV shows, but as sits in the fenced garden. The is Cafe Du Monde, perhaps and, if you’re uptown, Camellia champagne toasts Laura Martone — a Big Easy cliche as it might sound, I still rooftop pool area at Hotel the most famous place to Grill for diner-style vittles. on Dec. 31. Wavering native and author of several consider it one of the best Monteleone offers a terrific sample beignets and cafe au already? not to worry Moon Handbooks, including photo opportunity locations, aerial view of the French lait. Because it’s open 24 hours Q. Where’s the best place to with our list of 10 Moon New Orleans — answers particularly near sunrise or Quarter. daily, I recommend stopping soak up true New Orleans destinations to help our questions about navigating sunset — though it can also there before going to sleep. If culture? keep those resolutions Louisiana’s most storied city. look amazing on a stormy day. Q: Where’s the best place to that doesn’t work, consider a: although the French Quarter on track. See canoe.ca/ resolutionvacations. Q. What’s the biggest mistake visitors to New Slip, slide away Orleans commonly make? with the family a: Sticking to Bourbon St. NEEd TO KNOW While it’s understandable n For more on Moon’s new Make the most of that first-time visitors would Orleans, see moon.com/2012/12/ winter by indulging in want to experience the festive discovering-authentic-new- a little outdoor family madness of the city’s most orleans-with-laura-martone and fun! These 10 sledding, famous thoroughfare, new Moon new Orleans: moon.com/ tubing and tobogganing Orleans has a lot more to offer books/moon-new-orleans. destinations in Canada than just the strip clubs, loud n For additional tourism info, see are perfect for an tourist traps, and overpriced LouisianaTravel.com/Canada and afternoon of chilly fun. restaurants along much of this neworleanscvb.com. canoe.ca/sledding stretch. In fact, some of the city’s best nightlife options lie It’s winter — get beyond the French Quarter, out there! such as the live music venues Celebrate our chilliest along Frenchmen St. in the Faubourg Marigny. season with your family at our top 10 Q. What’s your best budget family friendly winter tip for New Orleans? festivals across a: Visiting during the summer Canada. See canoe.ca/ months can save you a lot winterfestivals. of money. True, it’s often too hot for many locals (like me) to stick around, but the good news is you can usually find awesome hotel deals as well as many restaurant specials. SUN POLL no matter the season, OnlineTravel Poll though, you’ll find plenty of budget-friendly options. Cafe How do you usually Maspero, for instance, offers plan your vacation? enormous portions of seafood for some of the cheapest n Browse travel prices in the French Quarter. catalogues. For shopping bargains, head n Search for info and to Magazine St., where you’ll recommendations online. find vintage shops like Funky n Talk to friends and Monkey. also, the French family. Quarter’s French Market offers n Talk to a travel agent. affordable fresh produce, jewelry, apparel, luggage, n Other. books, souvenirs and other VOTE NOW AT items with flexible price tags. canoe.ca/travel Q. What’s the best photo op location and the best time of Last week’s results day to take the photo? a. new Orleans is a well- Did you travel as much as photographed town — and you wanted to in 2013? with good reason. Historic streetcars, centuries-old oak Crescent City 32% Yes,I did. trees, nostalgic riverboats, Connection Bridge 65% No, I wish I travelled wrought-iron balconies, and the New Orleans more. lush courtyards, and vibrant skyline are reflected in 3% I don’t like to travel. cuisine are just some of the the Mississippi River. photogenic subjects you’ll encounter in the Crescent fotolia The Sunday Sun n January 5, 2014 n n TRAVEL 37 Venture beyond Bourbon St. for an authentic taste of A REAL SLICE Lousiana’s most storied city oozes history, I often find it too are found beyond the Quarter, in the uptown neighbourhood Q. Where can visitors explore look at the influence of such Q: Where should a first-time overrun with tourists to feel such as the jazz and blues — there are plenty of smaller voodoo culture? literati, consider taking a visitor stay? a true sense of new Orleans’ clubs along Frenchmen St. I’m parks and plazas worth a: There’s no shortage of reservation-only literary tour a: new Orleans offers a wide culture. Of course, that’s not also fond of neighbourhood experiencing. My favourite is voodoo shops in the Big Easy. through Historic new Orleans array of lodging options, from completely true — it’s possible, eateries like Mandina’s the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Places like Voodoo authentica Tours. If you’d rather create intimate B&Bs in the Garden after all, to get a taste of the restaurant, where you might Sculpture Garden, a 2-hectare and Marie Laveau’s House of your own itinerary, be sure District and Faubourg Marigny; city’s storied past at places see local politicians. space beside the new Orleans Voodoo offer a wide array of to stop by Faulkner House fancy, historic hotels in the like antoine’s restaurant, the Museum of art in the southern curious paraphernalia, from Books, where Faulkner himself French Quarter; and large chain Hermann-Grima House, the Q: What’s the best park? part of City Park. Delightfully, voodoo dolls to gris-gris bags once lived and wrote; visit the hotels in the CBD. So, where Mississippi riverfront, and the a: Beyond the city’s three it’s free to visit, and when I to books. Still, one of the best Brevard-Clapp House, anne you stay will depend on why numerous courtyards that are major parks — Woldenberg have the time, I love to stroll places to explore this often rice’s former uptown home, or you’ve come — and whether or hidden from public view. Still, riverfront Park alongside the amid the ancient live oak misunderstood religion and John Kennedy Toole’s gravesite not you have access to a car. some of the best spots to get a French Quarter, City Park in trees, verdant foliage, peaceful culture is the new Orleans in Greenwood Cemetery; Luckily, new Orleans is a small sense of the real new Orleans Mid-City, and audubon Park lagoons, pedestrian bridges, Historic Voodoo Museum, and stay at the classic Hotel city, so staying in the French and more than 60 impressive which, in addition to several Monteleone, which has hosted Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, or statues from sculptors like artifact-filled exhibits, also the likes of Eudora Welty, Ernest CBD, along St. Charles ave. in Henry Moore, Pierre auguste offers an excellent guided Hemingway, Truman Capote, uptown, and even in parts of renoir and Claes Oldenburg. voodoo tour that often includes and many other literati. Mid-City will guarantee easy a visit to Congo Square access to major attractions, Q: Where are the best spots and Our Lady of Guadalupe Q: Where are the best places stellar restaurants and events. for art lovers? Church, a stroll through St. to pick up some local foods? a: art lovers will find plenty Louis Cemetery no. 1 (site of a: your most distinctive Q: What is the best place for a of places to spend their time, Marie Laveau’s tomb), and an new Orleans souvenirs will weekend getaway? particularly the art galleries encounter with a contemporary most probably be items a: although visitors to new along royal and Magazine voodoo priestess at the Voodoo you can consume. regional Orleans can make day trips to streets, the CBD’s arts District, Spiritual Temple. products, such as abita Baton rouge, Cajun Country, which boasts such gems as beer, French Market coffee, and communities north of Lake the new Orleans School of Q: How can visitors walk Tabasco sauce, pralines, and Pontchartrain, my favourite GlassWorks & Printmaking in the footsteps of New Zapp’s Potato Chips, can be excursion has always been Studio, the Contemporary arts Orleans’s literati? found at groceries and other the Great river rd., where you Center, and The Ogden Museum a: This historic port town has emporiums, such as the can explore several incredible REUTERS filES of Southern art. In addition, lured its share of visual artists historic French Market, which plantations, such as Oak alley you’ll spy a wide assortment of and writers over the years. houses Southern Candymakers and nottoway, plus the quaint artwork (sometimes for sale) in The city’s rich literary past and several food stalls. town of St. Francisville. My restaurants and coffeehouses, includes such luminaries as alongside Jackson Square, favourite locale along this route including three of my favourite William Faulkner, Tennessee you’ll find delectables at Creole is Laura: a Creole Plantation, French Quarter hangouts: Williams, Mark Twain, F. Scott Delicacies and the Tabasco which has a fascinating history. Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, angeli Fitzgerald, Francis Parkinson Country Store, and there’s Its slave cabins were the place on Decatur and Mona Lisa Keyes, John Kennedy Toole, no shortage of praline shops where the Br’er Rabbit folktales restaurant. and anne rice. For an in-depth throughout the French Quarter. were recorded in the 1870s.

dAnCIng In ThE STREETS REUTERS filES New Orleans’ signature event is Mardi Gras — an over-the-top city-wide pre-lenten Carnival celebration of elaborate parades, balls and parties that starts on Feb. 15 this year and builds until the Fat Tuesday (March 4) blowout. On that day, thousands of revellers parade through the French Quarter.

SARAh BERgEROn-OUELLET/QMI AGENCY FILES IMAGES OF NEW ORLEANS: A man rides a bicycle past the -dO Canal St. streetcar line. Dominican Sisters enjoy ice cream MUST near the St. Louis Cathedral in the French Quarter. There is not shortage of atmosphere along Bourbon St., but visitors looking for an authentic taste of New Orleans culture should REUTERS filES stray beyond the tourist areas.