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Faubourg Marigny, Bywater & Holy Cross 5 O F 8 E X P E RIEN C E New Orleans’ Historic Neighborhoods Faubourg Marigny, Bywater & Holy Cross PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER ARCHITECTURAL GUIDE N EIGHBORHOOD E VENTS WIN TER What’s going down Mardi Gras parades around here? YEAR R OUN D Second Saturday Art Walks in the St. Claude Arts District S P RIN G Bywater Home Tour Faubourg Marigny Improvement Association Home Tour FA L L GO DEEPER Halloween festivities on Frenchmen Street For details on these and other great Mirliton Festival in Bywater New Orleans events year-round, see Hell Yes Fest NewOrleansOnline.com/calendar W E A SKE D L O C A L S RICHARD SEXTON P H OTO G R A P HER A N D A U THOR What is your favorite Esplanade Avenue, between the river and spot in the city? Rampart Street, gets my vote as the best six blocks in New Orleans. The magic starts with the neutral ground tended by the residents, who can be seen in early morning MAURICE SLAUGHTER dragging garden hoses out to water the HARLE Y D AV I DSO N DIS T RIB U T O R city property they regard as an extension of their own. There are live oaks, sycamores, The Monday before Mardi Gras, my wife, her crepe myrtles, sago palms, but no set plan sisters and my brothers gather at our home or master gardener. The whole endeavor in Bywater. We go to lunch at The Joint for is like a squatter’s dream. On either side smoked ribs. In the evening we sit around of this urban forest is sublime, eclectic sharing wine and enjoying the music from historic architecture with no set back from Bacchanal ltering into our backyard. We the sidewalk. Esplanade borders the lower add nishing touches to our costumes for the Quarter, still a real neighborhood, and the Society of St. Anne Parade. At sunrise, we Marigny Triangle, the setting for the city’s enjoy a quick breakfast with Bloody Marys, hippest club and bar scene. It just doesn’t then o to the parade. get any better than this. MARK CHILDRESS REBECCA O’MALLEY GIPSON N O VEL I S T HIS T O R I C H O U S E S P E C IALIS T On a sweltering evening, I arm myself with Whenever I introduce someone to New a cool libation and walk with friends to Orleans, I take them to Cake Café in the Frenchmen Street. I like to stand in the street Marigny for breakfast. We sit at a table on and hear the music coming out of the doors. the sidewalk, and they soak up the culture I like to walk up and down and sample a and the architecture of the colorful homes Marsalis here, a horn stomper there, some all around us. It’s always a splendid start to reggae boys down at the end of the block, every visit. oh and who the hell is the new chanteuse at the Spotted Cat and why is she great in a way that singers are never great in any other city but New Orleans? Quotes from New Orleans: Days and Nights in the Dreamy City by Mary Fitzpatrick. Cover Photo— Liz Jurey FAUBOURG MARIGNY BYWATER The Faubourg Marigny, immediately The Marigny’s most popular draw is The Faubourg Marigny was once the Like the whole living city of New Orleans, the downriver of the Vieux Carré, is a bohemian Frenchmen Street, a vibrant stretch of music plantation of Marquis Antoine Xavier Bernard Bywater neighborhood is in a constant state neighborhood with a Caribbean-cosmopolitan clubs between the foot of Esplanade Avenue Philippe de Marigny de Mandeville, a Creole of evolution, with residents whose families vibe. The bright historic Creole cottages, and Royal Street where excellent jazz and bon vivant who dazzled New Orleans with have owned their homes for generations living shotguns and Classic Revival homes that ll other live music can be heard seven nights a his air and enormous wealth. He subdivided next door to new transplants. Artist housing this neighborhood, which was established in week. Just up the street, a bit o the beaten his property in 1806 and the residential and galleries, a plethora of eclectic eateries 1806, are the homes of chefs, artists, writers, path, St. Claude Avenue from Elysian Fields neighborhood began to develop as lots were and cafes and historic buildings ranging from musicians, academics and others, lifelong to St. Roch Avenue is quickly becoming a hip, sold to an eclectic mix of entrepreneurs and the grand to the humble make the Bywater a New Orleanians and transplants from around more local scene with funky venues o ering laborers, including Creoles, free people of dynamic and exciting neighborhood. the world alike, who were inspired enough by everything from alternative theater, comedy, color, Americans and immigrants, especially the Marigny’s unique character to make their and burlesque to DJs, indie rock, and a free Germans. Many homes were built by free Tucked alongside the Mississippi River home here. Monday night bluegrass pickin’ party that women of color, including the Rosette between Faubourg Marigny and Holy Cross, welcomes anyone with an instrument to join Rochon House at 1515 Pauger St., which was Bywater sits atop some of the earliest land Stroll down the streets to see that houses are in the fun. By day, the Healing Center on St. constructed around 1815 by an entrepreneur grants in the city. The largest plantation lovingly cared for here; the neighborhood Claude Avenue o ers fresh food, yoga and who amassed an amazing fortune by the time here, known as “La Brasserie,” featured a association, the Faubourg Marigny other healthful options. of her death. This mix of residents gave the brewery that historians claim was the rst Improvement Association (founded in 1972), neighborhood a distinctly European air that is manufacturing enterprise in the city. The is very active and monitors any change that still present today. land was developed piecemeal starting in threatens the unique character and the 1807, with large residential swaths, but also special quality of life in the Marigny — a sign industrial sites made vibrant by the railroad of the passion many residents have for their (which still today de nes Bywater’s boundary neighborhood, which was named a National along Press Street) and the river. The Ursuline Register Historic District in 1974. Historic nuns built a convent compound near the banks, corner stores and even bakeries have present-day Industrial Canal in 1826, an early been refurbished as homes and guesthouses, de ning development for the area, but they while riverfront warehouses accommodate were displaced in 1912 in anticipation of artists’ studios and performance spaces. the Canal, which was dug in 1916, dividing There are delightful cafes and restaurants Bywater from neighboring Holy Cross. tucked within the neighborhood for residents and wandering tourists to enjoy, and some Though one boundary is a canal that bears of the impressive churches have been this name, Bywater is no longer industrial. repurposed as performance venues and Instead, it is the residences — the gorgeous hotels. The gorgeous waterfront Crescent Victorian shotgun homes, Italianate mansions Park, a 1.4-mile span of greenery and path and Creole cottages that line its streets — along the Mississippi River that runs through that de ne the neighborhood. It is even home Marigny and Bywater, has an ADA-accessible to the last 1820s Creole manor house in the entrance at N. Peters and Marigny streets. city — the Lombard house at 3933 Chartres St., built in 1826. Bywater’s historic fabric has been protected since at least the 1970s, when HOLY CROSS in 1923 established the term “Lower Ninth has a high homeownership rate thanks to both Ward,” and cut the neighborhood o from the new and longtime residents. rest of New Orleans. White ight and damage from Hurricane Betsy in 1965 adversely Many devoted residents have restored homes impacted the neighborhood in the mid in the neighborhood, and programs like the 20th-century, but many long-term residents Preservation Resource Center’s Operation held strong. Comeback and Rebuilding Together New Orleans have also made considerable impact While much of the Lower Ninth Ward was in restoring the area’s historic homes and decimated by Hurricane Katrina and the keeping elderly and low-income homeowners ooding that followed the levee failures, water in their houses while beautifying them and receded from Holy Cross quickly, making making them safe. This neighborhood is lled damage less severe on this high ground near with a unique assortment of residences, from the river. Stalwart generations of homeowners the incredible Steamboat houses across from inspired people to come back and put down one another on Egania Street to the modern roots. It took many years for the neighborhood and e cient Global Green houses where to fully recover, but it did. Today, Holy Cross Andry Street meets the river. the Bywater Neighborhood Association rst Cross the Industrial Canal into the Lower Ninth formed. It was listed on the National Register Ward and head toward the river for a di erent of Historic Places in 1993. Crescent Park, type of New Orleans living. Historic Holy Cross which opened in 2015, gives residents and is a tranquil neighborhood, with shotguns and visitors an opportunity to enjoy the riverfront. cottages set on large lots, many with gardens. A The park can accessed in Bywater at Piety walk on the levee provides breathtaking views and Chartres streets, where visitors can of New Orleans’ downtown and the curve of the climb a steep steel bridge dubbed “the Rusty river; it’s enjoyed at all hours by residents of this Rainbow.” The park’s industrial touches speak sleepy neighborhood.
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