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New Orleans’ Historic Neighborhoods Faubourg Marigny, Bywater & Holy Cross

PRESERVATION RESOURCE CENTER ARCHITECTURAL GUIDE N EIGHBORHOOD E VENTS WIN TER

What’s going down Mardi Gras parades around here? YEAR R OUN D

Second Saturday Art Walks in the St. Claude Arts District S P RIN G

Bywater Home Tour Faubourg Marigny Improvement Association Home Tour

FA L L GO DEEPER

Halloween festivities on Frenchmen Street For details on these and other great Mirliton Festival in Bywater New Orleans events year-round, see Hell Yes Fest NewOrleansOnline.com/calendar W E A SKE D L O C A L S RICHARD SEXTON P H OTO G R A P HER A N D A U THOR What is your favorite Esplanade Avenue, between the river and spot in the city? Rampart Street, gets my vote as the best six blocks in New Orleans. The magic starts with the neutral ground tended by the residents, who can be seen in early morning MAURICE SLAUGHTER dragging garden hoses out to water the HARLE Y D AV I DSO N DIS T RIB U T O R city property they regard as an extension of their own. There are live oaks, sycamores, The Monday before Mardi Gras, my wife, her crepe myrtles, sago palms, but no set plan sisters and my brothers gather at our home or master gardener. The whole endeavor in Bywater. We go to lunch at The Joint for is like a squatter’s dream. On either side smoked ribs. In the evening we sit around of this urban forest is sublime, eclectic sharing wine and enjoying the music from historic architecture with no set back from Bacchanal ltering into our backyard. We the sidewalk. Esplanade borders the lower add nishing touches to our costumes for the Quarter, still a real neighborhood, and the Society of St. Anne Parade. At sunrise, we Marigny Triangle, the setting for the city’s enjoy a quick breakfast with Bloody Marys, hippest club and bar scene. It just doesn’t then o to the parade. get any better than this.

MARK CHILDRESS REBECCA O’MALLEY GIPSON N O VEL I S T HIS T O R I C H O U S E S P E C IALIS T

On a sweltering evening, I arm myself with Whenever I introduce someone to New a cool libation and walk with friends to Orleans, I take them to Cake Café in the Frenchmen Street. I like to stand in the street Marigny for breakfast. We sit at a table on and hear the music coming out of the doors. the sidewalk, and they soak up the culture I like to walk up and down and sample a and the architecture of the colorful homes Marsalis here, a horn stomper there, some all around us. It’s always a splendid start to reggae boys down at the end of the block, every visit. oh and who the hell is the new chanteuse at the Spotted Cat and why is she great in a way that singers are never great in any other city but New Orleans?

Quotes from New Orleans: Days and Nights in the Dreamy City by Mary Fitzpatrick. Cover Photo— Liz Jurey FAUBOURG MARIGNY BYWATER

The Faubourg Marigny, immediately The Marigny’s most popular draw is The Faubourg Marigny was once the Like the whole living city of New Orleans, the downriver of the Vieux Carré, is a bohemian Frenchmen Street, a vibrant stretch of music plantation of Marquis Antoine Xavier Bernard Bywater neighborhood is in a constant state neighborhood with a Caribbean-cosmopolitan clubs between the foot of Esplanade Avenue Philippe de Marigny de Mandeville, a Creole of evolution, with residents whose families vibe. The bright historic Creole cottages, and Royal Street where excellent jazz and bon vivant who dazzled New Orleans with have owned their homes for generations living shotguns and Classic Revival homes that ll other live music can be heard seven nights a his air and enormous wealth. He subdivided next door to new transplants. Artist housing this neighborhood, which was established in week. Just up the street, a bit o the beaten his property in 1806 and the residential and galleries, a plethora of eclectic eateries 1806, are the homes of chefs, artists, writers, path, St. Claude Avenue from Elysian Fields neighborhood began to develop as lots were and cafes and historic buildings ranging from musicians, academics and others, lifelong to St. Roch Avenue is quickly becoming a hip, sold to an eclectic mix of entrepreneurs and the grand to the humble make the Bywater a New Orleanians and transplants from around more local scene with funky venues o ering laborers, including Creoles, free people of dynamic and exciting neighborhood. the world alike, who were inspired enough by everything from alternative theater, comedy, color, Americans and immigrants, especially the Marigny’s unique character to make their and burlesque to DJs, indie rock, and a free Germans. Many homes were built by free Tucked alongside the Mississippi River home here. Monday night bluegrass pickin’ party that women of color, including the Rosette between Faubourg Marigny and Holy Cross, welcomes anyone with an instrument to join Rochon House at 1515 Pauger St., which was Bywater sits atop some of the earliest land Stroll down the streets to see that houses are in the fun. By day, the Healing Center on St. constructed around 1815 by an entrepreneur grants in the city. The largest plantation lovingly cared for here; the neighborhood Claude Avenue o ers fresh food, yoga and who amassed an amazing fortune by the time here, known as “La Brasserie,” featured a association, the Faubourg Marigny other healthful options. of her death. This mix of residents gave the brewery that historians claim was the rst Improvement Association (founded in 1972), neighborhood a distinctly European air that is manufacturing enterprise in the city. The is very active and monitors any change that still present today. land was developed piecemeal starting in threatens the unique character and the 1807, with large residential swaths, but also special quality of life in the Marigny — a sign industrial sites made vibrant by the railroad of the passion many residents have for their (which still today de nes Bywater’s boundary neighborhood, which was named a National along Press Street) and the river. The Ursuline Register Historic District in 1974. Historic nuns built a convent compound near the banks, corner stores and even bakeries have present-day Industrial Canal in 1826, an early been refurbished as homes and guesthouses, de ning development for the area, but they while riverfront warehouses accommodate were displaced in 1912 in anticipation of artists’ studios and performance spaces. the Canal, which was dug in 1916, dividing There are delightful cafes and restaurants Bywater from neighboring Holy Cross. tucked within the neighborhood for residents and wandering tourists to enjoy, and some Though one boundary is a canal that bears of the impressive churches have been this name, Bywater is no longer industrial. repurposed as performance venues and Instead, it is the residences — the gorgeous hotels. The gorgeous waterfront Crescent Victorian shotgun homes, Italianate mansions Park, a 1.4-mile span of greenery and path and Creole cottages that line its streets — along the Mississippi River that runs through that de ne the neighborhood. It is even home Marigny and Bywater, has an ADA-accessible to the last 1820s Creole manor house in the entrance at N. Peters and Marigny streets. city — the Lombard house at 3933 Chartres St., built in 1826. Bywater’s historic fabric has been protected since at least the 1970s, when HOLY CROSS

in 1923 established the term “Lower Ninth has a high homeownership rate thanks to both Ward,” and cut the neighborhood o from the new and longtime residents. rest of New Orleans. White ight and damage from Hurricane Betsy in 1965 adversely Many devoted residents have restored homes impacted the neighborhood in the mid in the neighborhood, and programs like the 20th-century, but many long-term residents Preservation Resource Center’s Operation held strong. Comeback and Rebuilding Together New Orleans have also made considerable impact While much of the Lower Ninth Ward was in restoring the area’s historic homes and decimated by Hurricane Katrina and the keeping elderly and low-income homeowners ooding that followed the levee failures, water in their houses while beautifying them and receded from Holy Cross quickly, making making them safe. This neighborhood is lled damage less severe on this high ground near with a unique assortment of residences, from the river. Stalwart generations of homeowners the incredible Steamboat houses across from inspired people to come back and put down one another on Egania Street to the modern roots. It took many years for the neighborhood and e cient Global Green houses where to fully recover, but it did. Today, Holy Cross Andry Street meets the river.

the Bywater Neighborhood Association rst Cross the Industrial Canal into the Lower Ninth formed. It was listed on the National Register Ward and head toward the river for a di erent of Historic Places in 1993. Crescent Park, type of New Orleans living. Historic Holy Cross which opened in 2015, gives residents and is a tranquil neighborhood, with shotguns and visitors an opportunity to enjoy the riverfront. cottages set on large lots, many with gardens. A The park can accessed in Bywater at Piety walk on the levee provides breathtaking views and Chartres streets, where visitors can of New Orleans’ downtown and the curve of the climb a steep steel bridge dubbed “the Rusty river; it’s enjoyed at all hours by residents of this Rainbow.” The park’s industrial touches speak sleepy neighborhood. to the site’s former maritime uses. A myriad of hip, tucked away restaurants and cafes, The land that comprises modern-day Holy Cross quirky bars and clubs, independently owned was established on Bernard deMarigny’s former art collectives and traditional galleries keep holdings starting in 1808. German and Irish the neighborhood’s diverse population out immigrants and African Americans settled the and about with options for fun at all hours. region and by 1900, the neighborhood featured a number of small farms that provided produce, poultry and dairy products to New Orleans’ markets. The construction of the Industrial Canal N . R O M A N

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S T . A N N O R L E A N S VICTORY ARCH 1919 are now the only two that remain. The former Double back to Burgundy Street. Glance up is the 1895 administration building of the Holy S 13 HISTORICT . SITES OF INTEREST WALKING / BIKING / DRIVING TOURS P 3800 block of Burgundy warehouse at 2800 Chartres St., built in the Alvar Street to see the Art Deco-style Alvar Cross School, 4950 Dauphine St. Continue E T D E R M A D E R S O N I E T S O A T 1880s, is now part of the New Orleans Center branch of the New Orleans Public Library three blocks and then turn right on Egania N N P B I

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1 T 1436 PAUGER ST 1821 7 HOMER PLESSY SITE 1891 Erected by neighborhood residents after the B FAUBOURG MARIGNY and bistros, or take a left on Royal Street and for the Creative Arts, a respected arts-training (913 Alvar St.), built by the Works Progress to discover the delightful pair of “Steamboat O T U E L P L O A U U L S - T E Corner of Royal and Press streets end of WWI, the carved stone arch echoes the walk towards Elysian Fields Avenue. program for high school students. Administration in 1940. In the 3800 block of Gothic” houses at 400 and 503 Egania Street. E A P L L V A A O I E C Built by Jean Louis Dolliole, a builder and a triumphal arches of the Roman Empire. Start at the cornerN of N. Rampart Street and Burgundy is the restored Victory Arch, built The house closer to the levee, built in 1905 by L L Y I T L M S O F T ALGIERS POINT E I L . I I C freeL person of color, as were many Faubourg Mr. Plessy was pulled from a train at this site V Esplanade Avenue and walk towards the Elysian Fields was conceived as the grand Take a left onto Press Street and walk to in 1919 to honor the heroes of World War Captain Milton Doullut and his wife, who were C O R U / A I L S W A A I O L L K T V A N Marigny property owners and builders. for defying “separate but equal” racial laws, E I C river on Esplanade. The tree-lined avenue, boulevard of the Faubourg Marigny in the Royal Street. On the corner is the place where I. Take a right at the end of this block onto both riverboat captains, was moved in 1912 I N N N E L E L T P S R I O O A G V G V T C R N I O spurring the landmark Supreme Court case ALVARR LIBRARY BRANCH 1940E replete with grand 19th-century homes, is the manner of its Parisian namesake Champs Homer Plessy, of the Supreme Court case Pauline Street, whose wide lots and large when the levee was raised. Their son, Paul, F E E E N E 14 O R T R D I R E M N R

V Plessy v. Ferguson. 913 Alvar StO E dividing line between the Vieux Carré and Elyseés. New Orleans’ version, however, was Plessy v. Ferguson, was pulled from a train houses are more typical of the Garden District built the second house in 1912. Both private

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R A ROSETTE ROCHON L Faubourg Marigny. Take a left on Bourbon planned with a central canal for transporting for defying “separate but equal” racial laws in than of Bywater. These houses once fronted residences are on the National Register. E L I X 2 D B A E R COTTAGE 1815 ST. CECILIAM Street to enter what is known as the “Marigny goods to and from Lake Pontchartrain, and 1891. Walk back into the Marigny (away from on expansive McCarty Square, a public park 15 U D Y 1515 Pauger St STS. PETER AND CATHOLIC CHURCHA 1897 Triangle,” the portion of the neighborhood was home to the Pontchartrain Railroad for the railroad tracks) along Royal and turn right carved out of the one-time plantation of L.B. Get back to Chartres Street and turn right, D 8 N S U E R 1860 G over a century beginning in 1831. By the 1850s, to see the former Holy Trinity Church at 725 McCarty. Double back and take a right on then left onto St. Maurice Avenue. One E PAUL CHURCH 1015 France St between Esplanade and Elysian Fields Avenue. G A U U L I Z R N I E T I N U A BuiltH and owned by pioneering free woman of 2317 Burgundy St. Bourbon Street becomes Pauger Street; the the avenue had many commercial structures, St. Ferdinand St., built for German Catholics Dauphine Street to enjoy a strip of restaurants of the most signifcant extant buildings in B P N C L E U O B P D O A B color and entrepreneur Rosette Rochon. U charming Spanish-infuenced cottage that including the Creole storehouse at the in 1853. Turn left onto Dauphine to get to and shops between Piety and Clouet streets. the neighborhood is St. Maurice Church, R D E B N I E Y U N A G V L C O L S I 1840 1879 N A intersection of Royal (707 Elysian Fields Ave.). Franklin Avenue, which has many beloved Mickey Markey Playground of Dauphine on constructed in 1852 (605 St. Maurice Ave.). S A N L L SUN OAK HOLY CROSS SCHOOL followsL I the angled street at 1436 Pauger St. T N B E E V E A A A 9 16 E R L R E - Y E C H T I T T Y O 2020 Burgundy St 4950 Dauphine St was built by Jean Louis Dolliole before 1821, a To its right is a historic bakery at 635 Elysian neighborhood eateries and bars. Piety Street is typically buzzing with children The church also long operated an esteemed C R P R A X I R K A B E - E R M H V 3 WASHINGTONU SQUAREI PARKS builder-architect responsible for some of the Fields. (Stella and Stanley Kowalski, fctional playing. Continue towards Press Street; at 3027 Catholic school. Continuing up St. Maurice S C L E L E R U M P E O A S - C U S T Several historicW buildings made up this campus characteristicO houses of the Creole faubourgs. characters in the Tennessee Williams play Dauphine is the circa-1866 St. Vincent de Paul Avenue and taking a right on Dauphine Street E M P E L E E D O T A E R P R This park, which was partI E of the original ST. VINCENT DE PAUL ROMAN before Katrina decimated the school in 2005. Dolliole was a free person of color, as were “A Streetcar Named Desire,” were supposed BYWATER Church building, complete with emblematic will lead you to Jackson Barracks, one of S . / U N 10 P T - L bell tower. End your tour at Press Street, or America’s fnest examples of antebellum neighborhood as planned in 1806, Owas once CATHOLIC CHURCH 1866 R many Faubourg Marigny property owners and to have lived at 632 Elysian Fields Ave.) Turn Y O L L L I I D E A V S L L I E N left to see the circa 1810 Creole cottage at Start at the New Orleans Center for the wander within the neighborhood to see a Federal architecture and home to the Louisiana paved as a basketball court, but had its originalN E 3037 Dauphine St builders — including those who built the early R U

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O E A A National Historic Landmark that originally GOTHIC HOUSES 1905 & 1912 1455-57M E PaugerR St. Follow Pauger another two house on this street, with its steeply pitched Chartres streets, housed in several surviving lovingly restored and maintained. St. Bernard Parish line and the Old Arabi

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C M Where the locals go to experience excellentT Milton Doullut and his wife, both riverboat building at 2000-2006 Burgundy St., early details. Turn right onto N. Rampart Street to and Harry Connick, Jr. among its graduates. and Jean Laftte defeated the British in 1815, music clubs and bistros. 11 LOMBARD HOUSE 1826 captains. The couple’s son, Paul, built 503 20th-century bank at 2001 Burgundy St. and enter the portion of the neighborhood known Continuing along Chartres Street, you will see Start your tour on the levee next to Sister during the fnal battle of the War of 1812. 3933 Chartres St Egania St. in 1912. storehouses at Burgundy and Touro streets are as the “Marigny Rectangle.” Take another right more old buildings converted into mixed uses, Street, named in honor of the Ursuline Nuns a reminder of the small Main Streets that once onto Marigny Street and follow it towards as well as new construction that is historically who built a convent near here in 1826 and Sites in red are numbered on accompanying 5 820 ELYSIAN FIELDS AVE 1810 1820s Creole manor house. powered this and other historic neighborhoods. the river, turning left onto Chartres Street, appropriate. Neon shotgun houses remind one remained for nearly a century, until the map. Use caution, trust your judgement and JACKSON BARRACKS 1834 Sun Oak, at 2020 Burgundy St., was restored enjoying the bright homes built in a variety of of New Orleans’ Caribbean fair. The Lombard Industrial Canal was dug. Climbing to the top be aware of your surroundings as you explore 18 The oldest remaining house on this stretch of 6400 St. Claude Ave by owners Gene Cizek and Lloyd Sensat styles along the way. The monumental Greek Plantation House, built 1826 at 3933 Chartres of the levee at the Industrial Canal will give you New Orleans. Elysian Fields. ACADEMY OF starting in the 1970s. This duo pioneered Revival building at 2601 Chartres St. was built St., is a vestige of country houses that once a vantage to see the spacious lots and porches 12

THE HOLY ANGELS 1862 The Louisiana National Guard is headquartered preservation eforts in the Marigny, and are as a Methodist Church for German residents looked out at the river. It is the last 1820s that lend the typical shotgun cottages of this E

3500D St. Claude Ave at this site, named to the National Register of responsible for much of its intact streetscapes. in 1854. Just beyond, the row of circa 1836 Creole manor house left in the city. neighborhood the feel of small farmhouses. GO DEEPER

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nuns, who operated an all-girlsE school here for governor in 1769, and turn right to walk toward the Marigny. The two circa-1836 Creole-style Poland. The building at 900 Poland served as a reinforced concrete continuous pour in the US. celebrities and fnd their favorite places

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Former Catholic church that now serves as a over 150 years.O ST. MAURICE CHURCH 1852 Washington Square Park. Follow Frenchmen brick row houses at 2701 and 2707 Chartres St. car barn and stables for the New Orleans City to eat, drink, and play in New Orleans at

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performance venue. N 605 St. Maurice Ave Street to sample the vibrant strip’s music clubs were once part of a larger development, but Railroad trolley company from 1861 to 1934. Two blocks away from the Canal, on your left, FollowYourNOLA.com

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H I S T ORIC DIS TRIC T S — A PR OJECT OF — WITH S UPPORT OF —

French Quarter and 1 Algiers Point

New Marigny, Gentilly 2 Terrace and Edgewood Park

Upper & Lower Central 3 Business District and 923 Tchoupitoulas St. 2020 Saint Charles Ave. Lower Garden District New Orleans, LA 70130 New Orleans, LA 70130 Phone— 504 581 7032 Phone— 504 524 4784 Irish Channel, Garden District Email— [email protected] Email— sta @notmc.com 4 and Central City Hours— Mon Fri 9 AM 5 PM Hours— Mon Fri 8.30 AM 5 PM

Faubourg Marigny, Bywater The mission of the Preservation New Orleans Tourism Marketing 5 and Holy Cross Resource Center— Corporation (NOTMC) is a private economic development corporation Mid-City, Parkview, To promote the preservation, created under Louisiana State Law 6 Esplanade Ridge and restoration, and revitalization of to foster jobs and economic growth South Lakeview New Orleans’ historic architecture by developing the tourism industry in and neighborhoods. New Orleans. Broadmoor, Carrollton 7 and Uptown MAPPING & DESIG N B Y — PHO T OGR APHY B Y —

New Orleans’ National Erik Kiesewetter / Constance Rebecca Ann Ratli / NOTMC 8 Register Historic Districts weareconstance.org notmc.com

This project has been funded in part by a grant from the Johanna Favrot Fund for Historic Preservation of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.