Vineyards, Wine Bars, Restaurants, Shops Contents Prague As a City for Wine Lovers? 5 Reasons Why Wine Is on the Up-And-Up in Prague 2

vineyards, wine bars, restaurants, shops Contents Prague as a city for wine lovers? 5 reasons why wine is on the up-and-up in Prague 2

The history of wine in Prague, from Charles IV onward 4

Czech wines and getting to know them 9 I. Varieties of white and red wines 11 II. Wine categories 14 III. How to buy Czech wine 19

A guide to reading wine labels 20

Where to go for wine in Prague 21 I. The quest for wine among Prague’s vineyards 22 II. Where to stop for a glass (or three): Wine-Bars 25 III. For lunch or dinner: Where wine and food go well together 34 IV. Fine dining: Restaurants with wine lists of distinction 45 V. Wine to go: Where to shop 54 VI. The year in wine: Wine events in Prague 56

Map with directory 60

Czech wines

Imported wines

average price for a glass of wine: 80 czk or less

average price for a glass of wine: 80-150 czk

average price for a glass of wine: over 150 czk

A vineyard in the Small Fürstenberg Garden of discovery as to what makes Central European wines distinctive, Prague as a city for wine then Prague has the best conditions in which to do so. lovers? 3. Dining both fine and casual 5 reasons why wine is on the In food and wine, Prague offers tremendous value for money. It is evident from every à la carte menu, wine-list and pricing of wine by up-and-up in Prague the glass. Long gone is the notion that fine fare and wine are to be found only in a select few establishments. The contemporary wine- New trends, wine-growing traditions and advantageous bars of Prague have a relaxed atmosphere and price-wise belong geography make Prague one of the top cities for wine lovers to the sensible mid-range. On the other hand, if you are looking for right now. Central Europe is just waking up to its winemaking a top dining experience, there are a number of places where you’ll appeal and Prague is exactly the right place if you want to be have ample opportunity to pay a little extra and not regret it. part of it. 4. Natural wines

The wave of interest in going back to nature and in unadulterated 1. Gastronomy on the natural wines has also reached the Czech Republic. A few years ascendant ago you’d have found very little mention of natural wines, Pét-Nat or orange wine in the Czech Republic. But things evolve very quickly Over recent years many new businesses have opened up in Prague, and there are now many talented winemakers bringing these wines bringing in a whole gamut of worldwide gastronomic trends. There to the market. If you want to go hunting around for natural wines, are frequent food festivals and farmers’ markets held here. New Prague wine-bars are where they come together. establishments are focused on product quality and excellence in their craft. Whether the cuisine is domestic, Italian or French – Prague is well versed in all of them. If you want to experience the interplay of Czech wines with top cuisine and great service, then 5. Prague is the gateway to you’ve come to the right place. the wine realms of Central Europe 2. Central European terroir Thanks to its geography, Prague is the perfect starting point for discovering the wines of the former Austro-Hungarian Monarchy More and more Czech vintners are developing their wines’ wholly countries. Slovakia, Austria, Hungary, as well as Slovenia and Serbia distinct character, based on local tradition, terroir and respect are all nearby, close geographically and culturally. And although the for traditional methods. The early phase of Czech viniculture is predominant wines to be seen are from the traditional wine-growing gradually coming to an end and the era of mature wines of character powers, in Prague you can also come across top-quality wines from is coming into its own. If you want to embark on your own journey the neighbourhood.

2 Prague as a city for wine lovers? Portál Židovské radnice Prague as a city for wine lovers? 3 The history of wine in The origins of viticulture Prague and the role of in Prague It may have been Prince Wenceslas himself, the first of the Czech Charles IV in developing territorial patrons who ruled in the 10th century who founded the viticulture vineyards by Prague Castle. Lore has it he cultivated and pressed wine himself. Indeed, the vineyard spreading over the hillside in the Wine is said to be the drink of Kings. In the Czech Republic close vicinity of the once Royal residence is named in his honour. and in Prague, this is doubly true, because the spread of No wonder that Saint Wenceslas has become the patron of wine- wine here was largely due to the Czech King and Holy Roman makers. It would seem, however, that the first grape growers in our lands were the ancient Celts. Emperor Charles IV (1316–1378). Grape growing was fostered especially by the newly founded religious institutions and monasteries, since the middle ages saw wine used primarily for missal purposes. Only in the 13th century did notable aristocratic families take to wine and it was at about this time that viticulture was adopted by cities, too.

The golden age of wine under Charles IV.

With the reign of Charles IV, the Kingdom of Bohemia saw viticulture arrive onto the Czech landscape. This glorious arrival was not just a question of the number of vineyards, but also of the quality of the grapes and their processing. The King had a wealth of experience from France and Italy.

Shortly after his ascension to the throne he had high-quality vines planted around Mělník and Karlštejn Castle. His efforts culminated in the year 1358, when he issued his edicts. Czech wine making thus got its clear-cut mandate. He also ordered the clearing of wooded slopes conducive to the cultivation of vines in Prague’s vicinity. Although it may seem incredible to us now, it seems that by the end of Charles’ reign there were some 700 hectares of vineyards in the environs of Prague.

The Edict on the founding of vineyards

The first edict was issued by Charles IV on 16 February 1358 on the Friday after Quinquagesima (the Sunday before the beginning of Lent). The edict not only laid down the establishing and letting of vineyards in and around Prague, but also kept in mind those who would care to evade their duty. Stocking was to begin within 14 days of the issuing of the edict, and the key thing was to gain exemption from all levies for 12 years.

“Being disposed by our own will and infinite kindness, as well as with the help of God, to better the condition of our Realm and all its

A4 view ofThe Prague history © City of wineof Prague in Prague Museum The history of wine in Prague 5 A view of Prague from Petřín hill by F.B. Werner © The City of Prague Museum

inhabitants, I do command: Plant vineyards on all the hills facing to (pron. [roach]) – probably from the French ‘rouge’ – red wine. It the noon in three miles around Prague. Everyone who owns such a was precisely during Charles IV reign that red wine varieties were hill is to commence such undertaking within fourteen days from the introduced. date of the issue of this edict. Anyone who would not or could not so undertake, for them let it be undertaken on their land by the man the Prague and its surroundings were suddenly full of vineyards. They vinemaster shall lend to them. Anyone who will establish a vineyard, stretched through Košíře and Motol up to Jinonice. Not surprisingly, shall from the date of commencing so doing and for 12 years after Prague’s Vinohrady district got its name from the extensive be exempt from all taxes and levies...” vineyards once planted on the slopes around the New Town of Prague, including Žižkov and Nusle. There were vineyards at today’s Only from the thirteenth year on was a tithe to be paid to the land Grébovka park, see pg. 22, but also in Dejvice and Troja. owner “... then to the Czech Kings a half jar of wine from each vineyard shall be due”. But any land owner failing to begin or to lease Hand in hand with the extension of vineyards, Charles IV set about the land was to lose a tithe in favour of the Crown, i.e. the Monarch. regulating the wine trade in 1370. He made sure that Czech and Moravian vintners received preference. So it was that during the The edict also laid down a uniform vineyard size, which was period from St Gall’s day (16 October) to St George’s day (24 April) measured in ‘rods’. Each was to be 16 rods long and 8 rods wide. In no wine could be imported from Austria, from ‘Wallachia’ (today’s today’s terms this is about 76 metres long and 38 metres across. Romania), etc. The restrictions encompassed missal wine. Prague apparently became self-sufficient with its own production, and the Charles’ edict was also quite particular about prohibitions and Royal Court was supplied predominantly with Czech and Moravian penalties: “No-one shall harm the vineyards, whether of noble or wines. common birth. Anyone caught by day causing harm to the grapes or vines, on foot or on horseback, or making a trail through the vineyard shall forfeit their right hand, unless they pay 20 threescore (Czech Groschen) to the vinemaster. Anyone caught by night, shall The Vineyard Regulations of lose his head and his worldly goods shall fall to the vinemaster.” Prague by Władysław Jagiełło

The golden age of wine in the Czech Lands continued with the successors of Charles IV. Władysław Jagiełło’s reign during the The burgeoning of varieties 15th – 16th centuries brought in several changes that were to protect and vineyards the vineyards and the quality of Bohemian wines.

The original vine grown here was exclusively white and quite acidic. All the vineyards had to be logged in land registries and without Newly planted out on Bohemian vineyards were grapes from France, a land registry entry the wine could not be sold. Notably enough, chiefly from Burgundy or Champagne, from Austria, Hungary, but inspection of wine quality and grade was brought in for the first also from Croatia or Italy. The big news was a grape called “rouč” time, under the decree that “after St Gall in all the towns of Prague wine shall be verified and if it were so found that any are falsified

6 The history of wine in Prague The history of wine in Prague 7 or spoilt by sulphur or any other things harmful and injurious to people’s health such shall be withdrawn and broken up.” Czech wines and getting to know them In the year 1515, the Monarch issued a similar viticulture decree for Prague. In all some twenty-one articles laid out the relationships The Czech Republic is known as a beer paradise, but for between the vineyard owners, the vintners and vineyard hands. over a thousand years grapes have been grown here and Among the most interesting rules we find that“labourers shall be made into wine worthy of note. The following paragraphs positioned far enough apart so as not to elbow each other while will let you know where our wines come from, what varieties working”, or that during the treading of grapes no women shall have access to the wine-press house. No one was to “carry off stakes are most popular and the meaning of the different category from the vineyards”. No one was to leave for lunch or dinner until the names to be found on the labels in wine-shops and other senior vintner blew his trumpet. stores.

The time of Rudolf, The geographical regions – the reforms of Joseph II Bohemia and Moravia th and the 19 century Currently there are 43.5 thousand acres of vineyards in the Czech Republic. For comparison, this is a mere two-thirds of the area taken During the 16th century the cultivation of vineyards came more up by vineyards in Burgundy, only one of the many French wine and more under the control of towns. Vineyards grew in number regions. Overall we produce some 550 thousand hectolitres of wine and this gave rise to a confusion of registers and accounts, in annually (the equivalent of 73 million bottles), which is not enough particular when it came to payments into the royal coffers. Hence to satisfy even half of the domestic demand. This is one of the even Emperor Rudolf II, a wine lover himself, issued very detailed reasons why exports are few and you are unlikely to find Czech wine instruction in the year 1590 comprising of 36 articles about wine available abroad. In Prague you will come across a broad range making. of high quality Czech wines, which makes it a fine place to start discovering what they are all about. They concerned imports and the export of domestic wines, The wine-growing regions in the Czech Republic broadly divide into fortifying and diluting and other such matters. The Emperor two main units – Bohemia and Moravia. Bohemia, with Prague at ordered, inter alia, “that the wine be kept as grown”. Anyone not its centre, is the lesser of the two, and the local vineyards belong complying would have their wine seized. In Prague there was among the most northerly anywhere in Europe. You can find several significant surplus production of wine during Rudolf’s time which vineyards in Prague itself! Read more about Prague’s ‘vintage’ past led the Emperor to protect wine-producers against unfair traders. on page 4.

Despite the damage done to the vineyards during the Thirty Years’ Most of the vineyards these days are located in Moravia, specifically War, enough of them still remained. This is apparent from the the south-eastern part of the country north of Vienna. The Moravia records of the late 17th century inventory of vineyards, including wine country is divided into four sub-areas – the Mikulov, Slovácko, their size and worth. Velké Pavlovice and Znojmo areas – each with specific terroir conditions best suited to different varieties. Then came the reforms of Joseph II. These brought curtailing of forced labour duties, naturally to the disadvantage of the vineyard owners, but in the year 1784 came the permit for each to LITOMĚŘICE be allowed to sell and serve food, wine and fruit juice from their MOST MĚLNÍK own production. This was an ideal basis for developing the wine business. PRAGUE KUTNÁ HORA Bohemia wine country Nevertheless, the 19th century saw more and more decline in vineyard acreage. Matters were most certainly not helped by the Moravia wine country

Napoleonic wars, the bankruptcy of the monarchy, the complete BRNO VELKÉ abolition of forced labour in 1848 nor the ever greater choice of ZNOJMO MIKULOV PAVLOVICE options of how to work the land. Thus, viticulture was to fade into the background, though not forever. The renaissance of viticulture VIENNA wasn’t too long in coming.

8 The history of wine in Prague Czech wines and getting to know them 9 Varieties of white and red wines

Nearly four-fifths of the wines made in the Czech Republic are white wines. Despite the northerly location of the vineyards, this is also the home of some excellent red and exceptional rosé wines. The Czech Republic offers a wide range of varieties to choose from. Single variety wines are much more common than cuvée, blends of multiple varieties, although these are on the increase.

The following list provides the most common varieties found in our vineyards, with additional tips about varieties which while less abundant are no less interesting.

Veltlínské zelené (Grüner Veltliner) was made famous in Austria and in the Czech Republic it has all it takes to provide a great refreshing white wine with its typical peppery note. Look particularly for dry wines from the Znojmo area.

Müller Thurgau offers a rather uncomplicated and easily drinkable white wine, but this is a traditional variety in the Czech Republic and one of the most widely seen, virtually all over the country. A pleasant, lush wine with Muscat tones that you can find, for example, from the Mělník area north of Prague.

Ryzlink rýnský (Rhine Riesling) is a world famous variety, a noble grape yielding some of the country’s finest wines, very popular with domestic vintners. Try out riesling from around Znojmo; in Slovácko one noted location is Blatnice pod Svatým Antonínkem, although the best examples may well be from Bohemia. Don’t miss out on the “Rýňák” from around Mělník!

Ryzlink vlašský (Welschriesling) has what it takes to be one of the mainstay varieties grown in our vineyards. Especially the terroir of Pálava (near Mikulov) produces some of the best white wines to be found here. Welschriesling knows how to be light and easily drinkable, but just as much to be honeyed, rich and complex. It works very well in both dry and sweet versions.

Sauvignon blanc is a world renowned variety that also plays an important role in Moravia; our most popular Sauvignons come from the Znojmo region and are covered by the VOC Znojmo certification of origin. These wines are made in different styles, but you can be sure to expect a fresh expression, sometimes with tones of herbs, blackcurrant or elderflower.

Pálava, a hybrid created by crossing Müller Thurgau and Traminer red, bears the name of this stunningly beautiful protected landscape zone near Mikulov. An example of the great cultivation tradition in

St10 ClareCzech Vineyard wines in Prague and getting- Troja to know them Czech wines and getting to know them 11 View from St Wenceslas Vineyard the Czech Republic, it is one of the novelty varieties which is to be Rulandské modré (Pinot Noir) is a mainstay global variety with found nowhere else, except for Slovakia. This aromatic variety gives some of the finest wines coming from Burgundy, Oregon, and rise to spectacular wines similar to the Traminer, often made in California, but in the Czech Republic its tradition goes back a sweeter form; very popular among domestic consumers. centuries. Outstanding “Burgundy” wines are to be found in Bohemia in the vicinity of Mělník and Žernoseky, while in Moravia Svatovavřinecké (St Lawrence) is our most widespread blue grape the wines that excel are from Bořetice in the Velké Pavlovice sub- variety and can give rise to seductively aromatic, fruity, spicy wines, region. Styles vary markedly, from the lighter strawberry-fruity ranging from the playfully accessible to the rare and refined. It wines to the more complex structured wines redolent of ripe stone- comes in all manner of quality, and it pays to take advice. Apart fruit, aged in wood and the potential for aging. from Moravia where it is to be found around Bořetice in the Velké Pavlovice area, it gives excellent results even in Bohemia, with – for Modrý portugal (Blauer Portugieser) typically offers a lighter, example - the Čarodějnice (‘Witch’) vineyard near Mělník yielding straightforward fruity red “to quench a thirst” and easy drinking. It superb wines year in, year out. is grown throughout the whole of Moravia and Bohemia, and wines from the Velké Pavlovice area are certainly worth sampling. Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) is another of the major Austrian varieties here established, but it suffered some setbacks under the previous André is one of the speciality varieties of Moravian red that came regime and deserves more care. When properly prepared it brings about from the hybridization of Frankovka and Svatovařinecké in a juicy classic red, much benefiting from ageing in oak caskets. Velké Pavlovice; compared to Zweigeltrebe provides fuller, more Frankovka from Dolní Kounice has a real name to it, and excellent structured wines, especially from older vineyards, in the place of wines come from the Bořetice and the Rakvice environs. origin of the variety.

Zweigeltrebe, a hybrid of Svatovavřinecké and Frankovka is the Also worth a taste are the scented Moravian Muscat and Aurelius most widespread variety in Austria, but on our territory also gives varieties; the red Cabernet Moravia may also be intriguing. All these excellent wines, redolent of berries, softer, easy drinking. Most of are unique varieties cultivated directly in the Czech Republic. Noble it comes from the Velké Pavlovice and Slovácko areas, with some wines which deserve attention are varieties of Neuburger, Sylvaner, excellent wines from around Velké Bílovice. or roter Veltliner.

12 Czech wines and getting to know them Czech wines and getting to know them 13 Many famed international varieties have also found their home here. for economic reasons (for example if it is a very small batch) or Among bottled wines we often encounter fruity Chardonnay, often because the classification and attributive categories do not suit the slightly sweetish Rulandské šedé (Pinot Gris) or the fragrant them. Territorial wines can be and usually are marked with the year Gewűrztraminer. Among reds, both Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and variety. are sometimes grown, of which the latter tends to be the more successful. These are mostly interesting for comparison purposes, Víno jakostní (Appellation d’Origine, Prädikatswein, Quality wine) as a local manifestation of popular world varieties; sampling is is the entry level for officially classified wines, consisting of recommended. domestically grown grapes from approved varieties from one wine region, with a certain minimum sucrose content and, conversely a capped maximum vineyard yield. Typically, this kind of wine makes for easy drinking. Next up from the quality wines come Wine Categories quality wines with special attributes. In the Czech Republic you can find virtually all types of wines – Kabinetní vína (Kabinett) are typically light, usually dry, refreshing from the dry to the sweet, still or sparkling, non-alcoholic or strong wines, more often white or rosé than red. fortified wines. The most common are the still wines, which come in different categories classed by place of origin and must weight Pozdní sběr (Spätlese, Vendage tardive, Late harvest) is one of (sugar content) in the grape juice at the time of harvest. the essential categories, giving wine more full-flavoured and concentrated. More often dry or medium dry, occasionally sweeter, Stolní vína (Vin de Table, Table wines) – usually without stated with less alcohol. Late harvest white wines can be ideally balanced, vintage or variety are typically safe to ignore. and we need not always look to their higher ranks. Vína zemská (Vin de Pays, Provenance wines, i.e. Moravian Výběr z hroznů (Auslese) is a selection of grapes even more ripe territorial wine, Bohemian territorial wine) always come from and more concentrated, typically a wine with higher alcohol content a declared wine-growing region and from approved varieties, but as well as higher residual sugar. Dry auslese are worth watching have not been officially graded and verified. Paradoxically, this more in the red than the white version. means we may easily find among the basic simple wines a top class product that the winemaker decided not to have classified

A14 view fromCzech St Clarewines Vineyard and getting to Troja to Castleknow them Czech wines and getting to know them 15 A view from Vyšehrad

Výběry z bobulí (Beerenauslese) are selections of berries from worth trying Veltlínské zelené or Ryzlink rýnský from VOC Znojmo or grapes with a high sugar content, very mature, and usually a rich, Ryzlink vlašský from VOC Pálava. full-bodied, concentrated, typically semi-sweet to sweet wine. Svatomartinské (St Martin) is comparable to the French Beaujolais Slámová vína (Straw wines) are created from grapes desiccated Nouveau, always appearing on 11th November and offering for several months on straw or reed beds or suspended in a well- a foretaste of the latest season’s white, red and rosé wines. It ventilated area, which leads to water evaporating from the grapes is widely available in restaurants with the traditional specially making all their other constituents very concentrated. You can prepared St Martin feast menu. These are fresh and lighter wines anticipate some very sweet, fancy, aromatic wines. for drinking quickly, best before the end of the year.

Výběr z cibéb (Trockenbeerenauslese), botrytic wine, is very sweet, Burčák [boor-chalk] (known as Sturm in Austria, in Germany as concentrated and rich. The effect here is achieved by collecting the Federweißer) is a very popular drink of the vintage season in the grapes affected by noble rot and shrivelled into raisins. Czech Republic. This is not a true wine, but the partially fermented grape must, still fermenting in the glass, sparkling, sweet and jolly. Ledové víno (Eiswein); Ice wine is a speciality of northern wine producers and we are proud to produce it in our country. The grapes p Key: Wine residual sugar content are harvested at temperatures of -7°C or lower and pressed while still frozen; thanks to the frozen water content the juice is very wine with virtually no residual sugar or the concentrated and the wines sweet and gorgeous. Not every year is Suché (’dry’) barest minimum, barely detectable, sufficiently favourable, and the right conditions are becoming increasingly rare. balanced with acidity

Šumivá a perlivá vína; Sparkling and semi-sparkling wines are Polosuché becoming increasingly popular and especially those prepared by the (’medium dry wine that is only slightly sweetish classical fermentation in the bottle method are worth trying. or off-dry’) Polosladké Víno originální certifikace (VOC); Wine of Certified Origin is (’medium wine with considerable residual-sugar, tasting a parallel system for wines classified by the sweetness (°Bx) of the sweet or noticeably sweet grapes. VOC wine should always come from a variety typical of its semi-sweet’) area and reflecting the character of the region as much as possible. Sladké The listing rules of the individual VOC and the classification of the wine with high residual sugar, thoroughly sweet (’sweet’) wines are set by the local winemakers’ association. It is definitely

16 Czech wines and getting to know them Czech wines and getting to know them 17 How to buy Czech wine

If you decide to purchase some local wines, we recommend that you go to a wine-shop, or a specialized outlet. In a wine-shop you will get help from knowledgeable staff, and what’s more, you will have the guarantee of a quality product. By contrast, in ordinary convenience stores and supermarkets the selection of local wines is usually confined to the lower quality class. There are exceptions, such as the products of Znovín Znojmo or the Habánské cellars.

If you still just want to pick a wine in the supermarket or an ordinary grocery store, we recommend a few steps to help with your purchase: Check the importer, as mentioned on the back label, as well as where the wine was bottled. Even wines in the sections labelled as Czech, from domestic wineries according to the front label, may be in fact be imports from Hungary, Italy, Moldova and other countries. This is not to say these are necessarily bad wines, but they are certainly not local. In practice, you can find a range of wines carrying a unified label on the upper part of the neck of the bottle – “Vína z Moravy”, vína z Čech” being from Moravia and Bohemia respectively as a marque of origin. For now, this labelling is purely voluntary and is not used by all Bohemian and Moravian wineries.

“Wines from Moravia, wines from Bohemia” logo

Pay attention to the sugar content of the wine, i.e. whether the wine is dry or sweet. The wine varieties most often served abroad as dry wines (such as Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Gris), can be found in their Bohemian and Moravian versions as medium dry or even semi-sweet. This also applies to rosé and even some red wines. In a wine-shop you might come across a Czech favourite cask wine, called “sudové”. This is wine drawn from 50 litre barrels, typically into bring-your-own containers or plastic bottles. Cask wine may be a high-quality basic wine, but these days tends to originate from imports rather than Czech vineyards. We recommend that you ask about its origin and to sample some before buying.

18St WenceslasCzech wines Vineyard and getting to know them Czech wines and getting to know them 19 A guide to reading wine labels Where to go To help you get to know your way around Czech wine labels, for wine in Prague we have put together an annotated illustration. There are an endless variety of vignettes, each winery adjusts to its own Whether you just want a glass, a little to go with preference, but the content on the front label should bear your meal or enough for a magnificent feast – all the following information (not necessarily in this precise Prague has lots to offer, a plethora of high-quality order): and above all, diverse experiences. You will find a selection of the best on the following pages.

VARIETY (e.g. “Veltlínské zelené”)

quality class (e.g. “pozdní sběr”) sugar content (e.g., “polosuché”)

THE YEAR WINERY NAME Wine region Wine sub-region Vineyard municipality Vineyard tract

Alcohol content Bottle volume

20 A guide to reading wine labels Where to go for wine in Prague 21 I. The quest for wine among Prague’s vineyards Svatováclavská vinice (‘St Wenceslas Vineyard’) q Prague Castle, between the old Castle Steps and the street Na Opyši, Prague 1 – Hradčany This newly restored vineyard and adjacent Villa Richter belong to the Prague Castle complex and shouldn’t be missed when visiting. It is accessible directly from the Castle and from the western side from Malostranská metro station.

The millennial history of the vineyard dates back to the 10th century, when the south slope, with it extraordinary view of the rest of Prague was selected by Prince Wenceslas himself. St Wenceslas Vineyard and the adjacent Villa Richter underwent extensive renovations in 2008. The vineyard was restocked with Riesling and Pinot Noir varieties. Still planted along the scenic route are all the The Grébovka Vineyard typical Moravian and Bohemian varieties.

You can sample a limited edition of wine from the St Wenceslas Vinice sv. Kláry (‘The St Clare Vineyard’) Vineyard exclusively in the Villa Richter restaurant. In the summer q Nádvorní 134, Prague 7 – Troja season, there is a takeaway stall at the vineyard and the Villa Richter The vineyard was likely founded in the 13th century; a hundred years restaurant opens out onto the terrace. later, it became part of the Prague wine boom initiated by Emperor Charles IV (see pg. 5). You will find it in Prague’s Troja district as a part of the Botanical gardens, overlooking the Troja Chateau. The new wine trail takes you past all the major grape varieties grown in the Czech Republic, while the Vintner’s House offers chance to sample some local wines. Wines from St Clare have since 2009 been processed at the vineyard itself in the newly built modern cellars. The local speciality is a cuvée called “Bílé z Botanické” (White from the Botanical Gardens).

St Wenceslas Vineyard, CC © Farid (Keete37), Wikipedia

Vinice Grébovka (‘The Grébovka Vineyard’) q Havlíčkovy sady, Prague 2 – Vinohrady The historical “Grébovka” vineyard is what remains of the extensive vineyards founded by Charles IV in the 14th century, at which time they covered the entire area. There are two historical buildings from the late 19th century, once part of the summer home of the industrialist Moritz Gröbe. One of them, the charming Viniční Altán, houses a wine restaurant serving local wine samples. In the vineyard itself, the traditional varieties such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris, Riesling and Müller Thurgau have in recent years been joined by the modern varieties of Hibernal, Dornfelder and Neronet. The St Clare Vineyard

22 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 23 Vinice Salabka (‘Salabka Vineyard’) q K Bohnicím 2, Prague 7 – Troja II. Where to stop for a glass The vineyards are part of the private winery and restaurant Salabka, (or three): Wine-bars which recently restarted its activities. The vineyards here extend over 4 hectares and the wine production is around 18 thousand Vinograf Míšeňská q Míšeňská 8, Prague 1 – Malá Strana bottles a year. z +420 604 705 730 w www.vinograf.cz In addition to the original plantings of Riesling the vineyard’s A cosy little place just a short walk from Charles Bridge. One of varieties include Pinot Noir, Müller Thurgau, Scheurebe, Pinot Blanc, the first modern wine-bars in Prague and by now one of three Hibernal, Neronet and Tintet. All the wines from Salabka are there to establishments sporting the Vinograf logo over the entrance. be sampled direct in the Salabka restaurant. Vinograf is just the place if you want to take a crash course in getting to know your Bohemian and Moravian Wine.

Always on hand is one of the professional sommeliers and a truly broad selection of interesting wines from Moravia and Bohemia. They won’t be fazed by requests for your favourite type of wine, either.

They always have around 20 different wines on offer by the glass, and about 350 bottles in the cellar. You can stop by for a glass in the afternoon or better still, in the evening. To go with your wine, they serve their renowned goose rillettes, crackling spread, or pickled Camembert-style Hermelín cheese.

24SalabkaWhere Vineyard to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wineVinograf in Prague Míšeňská25 Bokovka (‘Sideways’) L’Fleur q Dlouhá 37, Prague 1 – Staré Město q V Kolkovně 5, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 731 492 046 w www.bokovka.cz z +420 734 255 665 w www.lfleur.cz The latest addition to the Prague wine-bar scene and one of the Top-notch cocktails and wine? You’ll find this unusual meeting of offshoots of the popular restaurant network, Ambiente. If you are worlds just a short walk from Dlouhá Street in this bar inspired serious about your homework of getting to know Czech wines, by the Parisian era of La Belle Époque. L’Fleur is a great first stop you could scarcely find a better place in downtown Prague to before dinner, but you might just get stuck and be here for the whole score some valuable points. The punk interior looks at first glance evening. like a ransacked cellar, but don’t be fooled. Bokovka is one of the cosiest places to spend an evening in Prague. Don’t leave without having tasted at least one of their signature or barrel-aged drinks. Or stop by to imbibe the ambience over a glass The wine and the whole operation in Bokovka is under the watchful of champagne, even if it’s just one glass. For a really festive evening, eye of Roman Novotný, an experienced sommelier who used to be in there is an altogether decent selection of luxury Champagne by the charge of the wine at the Michelin starred La Degustation Bohême bottle. Bourgeoise. He keeps a special wine vault collection that includes the best of domestic and imported wines. Every night, there are at least 8 bottles open for pouring by the glass.

No food is cooked at Bokovka, but they are wonderfully well stocked with a selection of cheeses, with a separate aging space. The House speciality is a selection of high-quality canned sardines, which they will match to your wine.

L´Fleur

Den Noc (‘Day-Night’) q Templová 7, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 775 697 733 w www.dennoc.cz A family business and one of the few pleasant places on the tourist route between the Municipal House and the Old Town Square. By day, the bistro is an ideal place for a relaxing stopover and a small snack. By night it transforms into a wine-bar with a diverse assortment of wines from smaller domestic wine-makers. Whatever the time might be when you venture into Den Noc, you can always count on the friendly service and relaxing atmosphere of a family- run Bistro, where you can relax in peace, away from city hustle and bustle.

The calming effect is helped by the fact they have 16 different wines open at any one time, always to cover a range of styles. In addition, there are about a hundred wines representing the smaller and medium-sized wine producers of Moravia and Bohemia.

If you go there to eat, do try their speciality – sweet and savoury pancakes, which they will be happy to prepare gluten-free and even in the lactose-free version. And when you see their home-made kolaches and Bundt cakes, you’ll find it very hard to resist.

26BokovkaWhere to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 27 Na břehu Rhôny FLAVOURS wine & deli (‘On the banks of the Rhône’) q Záhřebská 29, Prague 2 – Vinohrady q Na Hrobci 1, Prague 2 - Nové Město z +420 777 691 887 w www.flavours.cz q Rašínovo nábř. 410/32, Prague 2 - Nové Město We’d be hard pressed to find a better excuse for you to take a walk q Francouzská 246/84, Prague 10 - Vršovice around Vinohrady than to stop at a wine-bar that is full to the brim q Rohanské nábř. 657/7, Prague 8 - Karlín with a variety of flavours. Flavours is a tasting wine-bar, where they q Puškinovo nám. 633/13, Prague - 6 - Bubeneč know just what kind of a tasty tid-bit best goes with each glassful. w www.nabrehurhony.cz Côtes du Rhône comes to Prague! Lots of wines from the South Cheeses, dried ham and salami brought from all corners of Europe of France in an informal setting, and without breaking the bank. areas and especially those that complement wine ever so well. At Nowadays, five popular wine bars are spread all over Prague - Flavours, you’ll find a modern wine tasting dispenser with 8 wines by besides the oldest branch at Výtoň and its younger offshoots “Za the glass, protected by a nitrogen atmosphere. What’s more, this is rohem”, you will find them in Vršovice, Karlín and Dejvice. a great place to do some buying, where they’ll be glad to advise you what to select out of 450 wines from around the world. There is no The wine selection is largely down to one area, but on the other corkage to pay on wine uncorked on the premises. hand it is done thoroughly and the wine is very affordable. Lots of wines are available by the glass and no corkage is charged for wines When it comes to the delicacies, be sure to try the Hungarian uncorked on the premises. specialities, don’t miss the Mangalica bacon, Burgundy cheeses and a range of delicacies made to Flavours’ own specification. Na břehu Rhôny is a place fit for a good breakfast, available to the most laggardly until three o’clock in the afternoon. Taking turn on Oliveira the menu through the week are oysters, home-made pâtés and other q Čermákova 1231/4, Prague 2 - Vinohrady French delicacies to go with the wine. z +420 608 812 230 w www.oliveira.cz Oliveira is an authentic bit of Portugal in Prague. Both Czechs and Portuguese expats congregate in this cozy bistro to sip on (not just) port while listening to Portuguese music and nibbling on petiscos – the Portuguese version of tapas. There are regular wine tastings, travel-themed evenings featuring Portuguese-speaking destinations, and Portuguese music concerts.

Oliveira’s sister establishment, the Oliveira Boat, is moored on nearby Rašínovo embankment and offers the same Portuguese flavors as the bistro, plus a lovely view.

Oliveira

Na28 břehuWhere Rhôny to Za go rohem, for wine Rašínovo in Prague nábřeží/embankment Where to go for wine in Prague 29 Noelka VinVin q Slavíkova 3, Prague 2 – Vinohrady q Táboritská 23, Prague 3 – Žižkov z +420 775 310 781 w Facebook Noelka – vinotéka z +420 267 092 234 w www.vinvin.cz An understated Vinohrady treasure trove dedicated by the This wine-bar in the heart of the bohemian neighbourhood of Žižkov proprietors to the sale and promotion of authentic Moravian wines. is mostly dedicated to the wines of South Moravia. Afternoons Noelka is a fine place to do some shopping and stop by for a glass. through evenings you are awaited by over 2000 bottles from In the summer, you will find this relaxed wine-shop easily by the Moravian winemakers and lots of wine served by the glass. To go huddle of people hovering outside, glass of wine in hand. with the wine there are unfussy hot dishes and a good selection of appetizers. There’s almost invariably something interesting to be found here, served by the glass. You can also be sure of no regrets by tasting VinVin is where you can get properly acquainted with the wines here those cask wines that have a somewhat iffy reputation that carry the appellation VOC Znojmo. The Association of elsewhere in Prague. The proprietor will be happy to make wine producers guarantees their origin and quality and sets a recommendation and help you make your choice of bottled wines. high standards on how grapes are processed. The VOC Znojmo Particularly true of the small and interesting Moravian winegrowers appellation system was founded in 2009 as the first in the Czech at Noelka is value for money accompanied by good customer Republic and exclusively covers the wine varieties of Sauvignon, service. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.

Prosekárna (‘The Prosecco House’) q Slezská 48, Prague 2 – Vinohrady z +420 775 565 813 w www.prosekarna.cz q Myslíkova 16, Prague 2 – Nové Město z +420 774 400 926 w www.prosekarna.cz One of the places very popular with Vinohrady residents who enjoy stopping here for a glass after work. Prosekárna is a small wine- bar devoted exclusively to the Italian Prosecco, doing a fine job to promote its name in Prague.

It matters not whether you are Prosecco aficionado or know it only for its bubbles. In the Prosekárna they can always advise you to suit your tastes, and if you are in the mood they will take you right through the diverse range, including all the various styles of contemporary Prosecco.

Be sure to expect a few bottles at the ready for drinking by the glass and a very well stocked cellar with a range of producers in different price categories. To complement the bubbly, they serve VinVin Italian coffee and you can take a nibble at a basic selection of Italian delicacies. If Vinohrady is too far out of your way, you might like to visit their latest and bigger branch, which is closer to the city centre Ráno kávu, večer víno in Myslíkova Street. (‘A.M. coffee, P.M. wine’) q Kodaňská 4, Prague 10 – Vršovice z +420 774 673 732 w www.ranokavuvecervino.cz As the name suggests, this bistro is ideal for those who like to start their day with honest coffee and finish it with good wine. You will find it in Vršovice, in the area where hipster-central Krymská Street meets the elegant Kodaňská. The bistro offers chiefly natural and biodynamic wines, especially from Italy, France and Moravia, as well as quality cheese, salami, olives and snacks. Wines are also available to go. In the summer, there is a pleasant outdoor seating area shaded by parasols.

30ProsekárnaWhere to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 31 and gastronomically. The Brut. wine and oyster bar is another proof that this reputation is well-deserved. The minimalist-interior bistro offers a comprehensive range of international wines – especially those from France, Italy and Spain, alongside which fresh oysters from family farms are served. Everything is affordable and the quality is high, with oysters sourced from eco-friendly suppliers.

Veltlin q Křižíkova 115, Prague 8 – Karlín z +420 725 535 395 w www.veltlin.cz The Veltlin wine-bar is a gateway to exploring the natural wines from the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. A laid-back establishment in Ráno kávu, večer víno the heart of trendy Karlín is just the place for an evening glass of wine before a meal. And it is also one of the best equipped places Vinograf Anděl to buy wines from up-and-coming winemakers around the region. q Radlická 1C, Prague 5 – Smíchov In the Veltlin, many of the winemakers are personally involved in z +420 226 633 395 w www.vinograf.cz presenting and bringing in their wines, so you get your wines at source. The latest offshoot of the three Vinograf wine-bars. It sits directly in one of the busiest districts of Prague, Smíchov. This modern bar The proprietor of Veltlin, the poet Bogdan Trojak is also one of is open all morning and throughout the day, so you can even stop by the greatest domestic promoters of authentic and natural wines for breakfast or a straightforward lunch menu with some wine. from the region. Each year in the summer he organizes a festival of natural wines, under the name “Praha pije víno / Prague Drinks You will have some 300 bottles of wine to choose from, and always Wine”. at least 20 wines by the glass. In the Vinograf they devote a lot of energy to searching out interesting domestic wine makers and Even if you are in Prague on a busy schedule, we recommend that presenting their sterling efforts to the guests. In addition to getting you make the time to visit the Karlín district. Its atmosphere of wide to know key areas of Bohemia and Moravia here, you will be able to boulevards and lively cafés, pubs and bars is reminiscent of Berlin enjoy a good selection of wines from around the world. The staff of in the best way, and it offers a completely different experience than Vinograf will always advise you to suit your taste or preferred style the historical centre. of wine.

Vinograf Anděl

Brut. - Wines & Oysters q Letohradská 13, Prague 7 – Letná z +420 777 133 437 w www.brutkoncept.cz For a few years now, the Letná district has enjoyed the reputation of an attractive neighbourhood that has a lot going on, both culturally

32 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague Veltlin33 Café de Paris III. For lunch or dinner – where q Velkopřevorské náměstí 4, Prague 1 – Malá Strana wine and meals go well z +420 603 160 718 w www.cafedeparis.cz together A popular and often fully filled restaurant in the Lesser Town, specializing in French cuisine. Café de Paris is great for lunch or Atelier Red & Wine dinner for two as the culmination of a romantic walk through the q Rošických 4, Prague 5 – Malá Strana Lesser Town. z +420 257 218 277 w www.atelieratelier.cz A low-key establishment on the border zone of Smíchov and the A speciality draw here is the entrecôte “Cafe de Paris” – a beef Lesser Town, with excellent value for money in both food and wine. steak in a sauce made to a secret recipe, with fries and lettuce. In You can enjoy a quick lunch or a relaxed dinner here or just pop in addition, they always have a simple lunch menu and specialities for a glass of good wine at the bar. by the season. The wine-list is unfussy and concentrates on wines from France. The cuisine at the Atelier is mainly seasonally oriented and putting quality of ingredients first. The menu is a very light with plenty of vegetables and fish. A house speciality is a fish casserole dish for two – cacciucco.

When it comes to wine, the Atelier has a good foundation of domestic wines, reaching across to our European neighbours. Look forward to lesser known winegrowers not to be found elsewhere. All at very reasonable prices and with the option to open the bottle and take the wine by the glass.

Atelier34 RedWhere & Wine to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in PragueCafé de Paris35 Divinis For visitors, the bistro is a good choice in central Prague. We q Týnská 21, Prague 1 – Staré Město especially recommend their classic Italian breakfast and a quick z +420 222 325 440 w www.divinis.cz lunch. The menu gets changed every month and there are lots of confectionery and bakery products, baked on the premises. A luxury wine-bar complete with Italian restaurant, run by the most famous Czech celebrity chef, Zdeněk Pohlreich. The kitchen is If you find some of the wine from the Bistro or the Aromi or La exclusively Italian, seasonal and based on high-quality ingredients. Finestra restaurants to your taste, they are for sale right there The à la carte menu consists mainly of traditional dishes and typical to take with you. As with the food, expect a great cross-section combinations of flavours. The six-course tasting menu includes the of important Italian regions with an emphasis on lesser known best of the current season coupled with wine choices. distinctive producers. If you are ready to spend a little, here you will find a great selection of wines from key areas of Italy and a succinct but well stocked selection from around the world. There are only limited options of wine by the glass. The speciality of the head chef are the Divinis braised veal cheeks Marsala.

Divinis La Bottega di Finestra

La Bottega di Finestra Mlýnec (‘The Mill’) q Novotného lávka 9, Prague 1 – Staré Město q Platnéřská 11, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 277 000 777 w www.mlynec.cz z +420 222 233 094 wlbdf.lacollezione.cz One of the few establishments in Prague that combines great The sister bistro and shop in the vicinity of La Finestra restaurant. cuisine with stunning views of Charles Bridge. The Mlýnec head Here you can taste and buy all the key ingredients head chef chef Marek Šáda presents traditional Czech cuisine in a modern Riccardo Lucque uses in his cuisine. They import a number of the format. You’ll get to taste typical Czech ingredients and flavour products to Prague themselves from smaller or lesser known Italian combinations in a contemporary package with a nod or two to world producers. cuisine.

36 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 37 If you are in Prague over the weekend, don’t miss their popular French producers with an emphasis on interesting natural wines. version of brunch. If you go specifically for the Czech cuisine, do We recommend a shared chef’s-choice five-course daily menu or an make sure you try out their Czech four-course menu. The wine-list eight-course tasting menu. is representative of world wines with a cross-section of wines from Bohemia and Moravia.

Eska

Red Pif q Betlémská 9, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 222 232 086 w www.redpif.cz Mlýnec A great stop for fans of natural wines who like their food and wine to match perfectly. Red Pif is as great a wine-bar as a restaurant. The Eska head chef cooks modern French cuisine, where the meals served q Pernerova 49, Prague 8 - Karlín are custom made to go with the wines. Stop by for the lunch menu z w +420 731 140 884 www.eskakarlin.cz and a glass of wine, or enjoy an evening à la carte with wine pairing The industrial-chic Eska, in trendy Karlín, should be on the agenda by experienced sommeliers. of every visiting foodie. During the day, it is sought after for its coffee and excellent bread; by evening, it transforms itself into a Through its selection of natural wines, Red Pif takes you on a trip or busy restaurant with a first-class wine experience (an interesting two to France, Slovenia or Germany, not forgetting wines from the selection of homemade non-alcoholic is also worth mentioning). In domestic scene, of course. Red Pif offers a robust choice of wines the Eska kitchen, ancient techniques of food preparation such as by the glass and you can take home the wine on display at very leavening, drying, fermentation or fire-baking are put to enthusiastic reasonable prices. use. The wine list concentrates on smaller Central European and

38 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 39 VINOdiVINO A lively wine-bar primarily acts as the perfect get-together venue q Štupartská 18, Prague 1 – Staré Město for chatting over a glass of wine. They have a very wide choice of z +420 222 311 791 w www.vinodivinopraha.cz wines by the glass here, every day you can choose from almost 40 different samples including the rarer options through the Coravin Specialists in combining Italian wine with good food. VINOdiVINO system. operates as a restaurant and a place where you can go without qualms for a glass and just a bite to eat. They provide a simple Vinograf is definitely one of the places where to familiarize yourself day menu while the evening à la carte menu is teeming with Italian with a representative selection of domestic wine-making. They regional specialities. VINOdiVINO also operates as a wine-shop and make a point of going with winemakers of character and have point of sale for Italian delicacies. a good mix of different wine styles. This is a good place to discuss wine with local experienced sommeliers and buy some to take home The wine-list is filled with an incredible number of regional Italian with you. wines from all the relevant areas. Above and beyond the normal range there is go also a lively assortment of Italian Grappa and dessert wines seldom seen in Prague.

Vinograf Senovážné náměstí

Aromi q Náměstí Míru 6, Prague 2 – Vinohrady z +420 222 713 222 w aromi.lacollezione.cz This Italian restaurant of chef-restaurateur Riccardo Lucque is one of the best in the city. If you love Italian food, his establishments in Prague are not easily overlooked. Aromi was one of the first restaurants to introduce Prague to high class Italian cuisine and has held that banner high over the years.

VINOdiVINO The establishment has its own bistro, where you can have a quick lunch, as well as a fine restaurant with a sophisticated seasonal Vinograf Senovážné náměstí menu. q Senovážné nám. 23, Prague 1 – Nové Město z +420 214 214 681 w www.vinograf.cz The wine-list at Aromi is most thorough in its representation of wines from all the important regions of Italy. Here the better and The largest of the wine-bars under the Vinograf brand. Unlike the lesser known wineries come together in a diverse mix of styles. affiliated branches in the Lesser Town and Smíchov, the Vinograf Domestic and other European wines augment the wine-list. There on Senovážné Square runs a full kitchen and also has a very are at least 15 wines available by the glass and one of the House commendable permanent menu. specialities is the Coravin wine serving system.

40 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 41 Manú q Dětský ostrov 25, Prague 5 – Smíchov z +420 725 161 616 w www.manuristo.cz A fairly recent arrival among Italian restaurants in Prague, under the patronage of the well-known TV chef Emanuele Ridi. Manú enjoys one of the best locations in Prague. The restaurant is on a small island on the river itself, from which you will have an amazing view of the Mánes gallery and of the Dancing House.

The wine-list at Manú is not at all fussy. What counts is the interplay of great food, Italian wines and a splendid location. Especially in the warmer months do try to make a booking with a view of the river. The Manú cuisine is focused on a modern and light interpretation of Italian cuisine with lots of seasonal ingredients.

Aromi

La Bottega Gastronomica q Ondříčkova 17, Prague 3 - Žižkov z +420 222 233 811 w gastronomica.lacollezione.cz Another of chef Riccardo Lucque´s bistros, this one in the heart of bohemian Žižkov. In addition to a good wine list, this particular bistro’s attraction is an open rosticceria where fresh free-range chickens are prepared. The food options are rounded out by a hot buffet of Italian specialties. The food and wines are available to go, as well.

Manú

Wine Food Market q Strakonická 948/1, Prague 5 – Smíchov z +420 733 338 650 w www.winemarket.cz Prague has its own little Italian food hall, too, but you have to venture to the edge of Smíchov to find it. The Wine Food Market is a big store full of Italian delicacies, complete with a café right next to a bustling food hall of Italian food and drink.

La42 BottegaWhere Gastronomica to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 43 You can sample a lot of good food here in a range of stalls and sit down at one of the large communal tables. There’s pizza, pasta, fish, IV. Fine dining – restaurants meat and a solid selection of excellent wines by the glass. with wines of distinction

In the café you can finish off with Italian espresso to settle your Villa Richter meal and for a take-away some sweets and pastries from the Italian q Staré zámecké schody 251, Prague 1 – Hradčany bakery and pasticceria. At weekend lunchtimes the air here is abuzz z +420 702 205 108 w www.villarichter.cz with good and proper Italian ‘emozione’. Villa Richter is part of the St Wenceslas Vineyard complex at Prague Castle, which underwent extensive refurbishment in 2008. The neoclassical Villa has a permanent luxury restaurant the Piano Nobile, and in the summer months the seasonal restaurant Piano Terra with its sunny terrace overlooking the vineyard.

The seasonal cuisine of Piano Nobile reflects the current availability of local ingredients with influences from traditional Czech cuisine. The confit of duck with cabbage, beef tenderloin with Carlsbad dumplings and the Wiener schnitzel are great excuses for some wine pairing from a well-aimed selection of domestic wines.

Wine Food Market

Osteria da Clara q Mexická 7, Prague 10 – Vršovice z +420 271 726 548 w www.daclara.com If your time in Prague puts you in the mood for some honest-to- goodness Italian cuisine in a casual setting, Osteria da Clara is a proven local treasure, worth making a little detour.

Served here you’ll find genuine and unpretentious Tuscan cuisine. The portions are generous and the food is always based on the best of the season. The wine here is just as affordable as the food. The wine-list carries only a few straightforward wines by Italian winemakers, matching the homely character of the place.

If you are lucky enough to visit, don’t miss out on the Tuscan crostini, salsiccio pasta, fresh mussels or home-made tiramisu.

44 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in PragueVilla Richter45 Bellevue If you go into the Field, we recommend the full tasting menu q Smetanovo nábř. 18, Prague 1 – Staré Město with wines paired in advance. Field is also one of only a handful z +420 222 221 443 w www.bellevuerestaurant.cz of Prague restaurants to offer hand-crafted non-alcoholic drink pairings. The wine selection is based on the traditional wine- Luxury fine dining by the Vltava River with views of Prague Castle. growing regions of France, Italy, Austria and Germany. The domestic Make a booking to come here if you are looking for a well-balanced section is in the minority, but offers a decent range. culinary experience, a creative tasting menu, paired wine and flawless ambience and service.

À la carte and tasting menus combine the best of seasonal ingredients with the playful and creative style of head chef Marek Šáda. The wine-list sets out to cover the major European regions with an emphasis on France and a basic cross-section of domestic wines. In addition to choosing bottles from the wine list, you can pair individual courses with recommended wines by the glass.

Field

Kalina cuisine & vins q Dlouhá 12, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 222 317 715 w www.kalinarestaurant.cz Head chef Miroslav Kalina and sommelier Vít Hepnar make a point of looking for the best pairing of cuisine and wines to offer their Bellevue guests. The food here is founded on the traditional techniques of French cuisine, wherein head chef Kalina engages the cultural Field influences and rich tradition of Prague including the best seasonal q U Milosrdných 12, Prague 1 – Staré Město ingredients. z +420 222 316 999 w www.fieldrestaurant.cz The sophisticated and clean tasting dishes are prepared so as This ambitious fine dining establishment managed to score a to naturally complement the wine. In the wine-list you will find an Michelin star after just one year of operation. Head chef Radek impressive choice of Champagne and a sophisticated assortment Kašpárek’s cuisine is modern and creative, highlighting clean-cut of wines from France. flavours and a fresh combination of seasonal ingredients.

46 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 47 La Finestra q Platnéřská 13, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 222 325 325 w lafinestra.lacollezione.cz This Italian restaurant of chef-restaurateur Riccardo Lucque is focused primarily on luxury imported meat. In addition to the à la carte and weekly menu, the speciality of the house is a large platter of fresh meat brought to the table, from which you select the cut to be prepared to your specification.

The fare prepared by head chef Tomáš Juřík is rooted in regional Italian traditions, augmented by well mastered techniques and well thought-out flavour combinations. The wine-list can withstand close scrutiny by the most enthusiastic of Italian wine fans. The Kalina cuisine & vins selection of Italian wines is both broad and well-crafted and the wine flavours and aromas go with the authentic Italian cuisine La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise wonderfully well. q Haštalská 18, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 222 311 234 w www.ladegustation.cz An exceptional Michelin-starred tasting restaurant, La Degustation is also the flagship of the popular Ambiente restaurant chain. Head chef Oldřich Sahajdák strives to make La Degustation a place of revival of traditional Czech cuisine, complete with its ingredients and forgotten techniques. All this in the very concentrated format of an extensive tasting menu. The restaurant does not offer a lunch menu or an à la carte menu, and we recommend you make your booking well in advance.

As in the kitchen, the sommeliers’ approach to the wine is motivated by the desire to offer their guests the unsullied flavours and aromas of the original Moravia and Bohemia terroir. In addition to a very decent selection of wines from around the world to satisfy a well- travelled gourmet, guests have the opportunity to taste the most interesting wines on the domestic market.

La Finestra

Pot-au-feu q Rybná 13, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 739 654 884 w www.potaufeu.cz A quiet French restaurant with an intimate ambience best for a dinner for two. At Pot-au-feu, there’s a varied daily menu and a short menu full of traditional French specialities. Head chef Jan Kracík is unfettered by cliché in his cuisine, always adding a sparkle of innovation to his dishes.

The wine selection remains firmly set in France and the wine-list exactly follows the style of cuisine. The sommelier is thus firmly rooted in French soil, with an emphasis on tradition and reputable producers. At Pot-au-feu there is only a select choice of wines by the glass.

La48 DegustationWhere Bohêmeto go for Bourgeoise wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 49 Alcron q Štěpánská 40, Prague 1 – Nové Město z +420 222 820 410 w www.alcron.cz An acknowledged restaurant of long standing, which received one of the first stars in the Michelin Guide to Prague. The kitchens here have been the proving ground of many prominent Czech head chefs.

The restaurant in the Art Deco style seats only 24. The kitchens are a place where contemporary international cuisine joins forces with prime ingredients and the creativity of the chef. If you go to Alcron we recommend the evening tasting menu with wine pairings. The wine-list here is one of the most voluminous in Prague, and the advice of Alcron’s experienced sommelier is yours as a matter of Pot-au-feu course.

V Zátiší A less formal and more relaxed experience is on offer at the q Liliová 1, Prague 1 – Staré Město neighbouring hotel restaurant La Rotonde, with its highly regarded z +420 222 221 155 w www.vzatisi.cz weekend brunches. An established fine dining restaurant with a following of loyal guests who appreciate the service, ambience and quality food. On the menu, you’ll find a mix of modern Indian cuisine and traditional Czech dishes. This seemingly dramatic juxtaposition works surprisingly well here by a combination of meticulously rendered dishes, untainted flavours and pure finesse.

Come to V Zátiší for some à la carte where the price depends on the number of courses and paired wines. Every Sunday, there is the popular Indian brunch. The wine-list is a reflection of the diversity of cuisine and represents a broad selection of domestic, European and New World wines. At least 15 wines are always open for drinking by the glass.

V Zátiší

50 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague Alcron51 Salabka

Grand Cru founded on the use of luxury seasonal ingredients. q Lodecká 4, Prague 1 – Nové Město z +420 775 044 076 w www.grand-cru.cz When visiting make sure you don’t miss out on tasting some of the 15 wines from Salabka or take advice as to your choice from the A luxury wine-bar and restaurant run by one of the biggest Czech succinct wine-list comprising simply the best of France. importers of wines and fine spirits. The work of acclaimed head chef Jan Punčochář is here complemented by the skill of top Czech sommeliers.

Don’t hesitate to venture into the wine-bar out front whenever you happen to be in Prague. Awaiting you here is an incredibly comprehensive wine-list with 1500 different wines and an ever- topical selection of interesting wines by the glass, plus wine dispensed by the Enomatic system. Taking the lead are mostly the traditional wine-growing regions and the well-proven wineries that have stood the test of time.

If you want to add a meal to your wine savouring experience, you just need to walk through the bar into the restaurant. Every day, there is a light lunch menu at the ready, à la carte and a well thought through tasting menu with wine pairing.

The cuisine of Jan Punčochář is sophisticated, with an emphasis on the given season and the flawless preparation of luxury ingredients. Grand Cru make their own pâtés, cocktail sausages and smoked cheeses.

Salabka q K Bohnicím 2, Prague 7 – Troja z +420 778 019 002 w www.salabka.cz A luxury restaurant in Troja with its own winery and accommodations. In the Salabka you’ll find a lunch menu, evening dinner à la carte, and weekend brunch. The simple menu rooted in French cuisine is

52 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in PragueGrand 53Cru La Cave D’Adrien V. Wine to go – where to buy q Americká 18, Prague 2 – Vinohrady some z +420 246 030 284 w www.lacavedadrien.cz A small wine-shop with sales and own imports of French wines Vino Markuzzi and delicacies. In La Cave D’Adrien, the focus is mainly on bringing q Haštalská 3, Prague 1 – Staré Město forward the products of lesser known, smaller producers and wines z +420 224 829 088 w www.markuzzi.cz affordable for everyday drinking with good value for money. The acclaimed wine merchant George Markuzzi specializes in importing Italian wine from more than twenty recognized producers. In addition, he has on offer a selection of Italian delicacies and Grappa from Piedmont. If you want to make your stay in Prague even more pleasant with some elements of Italy, add Vino Markuzzi to you itinerary.

Víno-klub q Benediktská 3, Prague 1 – Staré Město z +420 724 239 045 w www.vino-klub.cz A popular online dealer with their own physical wine-shop. Víno-klub operates as one of the largest traders in domestic wine, brought La Cave D´Adrien to their customers in themed wine boxes of six bottles. The ‘wine club’ shop is a great place to get started with wines from Moravia and Bohemia. The assortment ranger and experienced staff are well Le Caveau able to convey the unbelievable diversity of domestic wines. q nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad 9, Prague 3 – Vinohrady z +420 775 294 864 w www.broz-d.cz Passage Praha A lively wine-shop with its own café and French bakery is a great q V Celnici 10, Prague 1 – Nové Město starting point for getting some French wine, cheese and delicacies. z +420 221 033 389 w www.passage.cz A restaurant, bistro and particularly an extensive wine-shop with You can pop into Le Caveau, situated between Vinohrady and a large selection of French wines from the notable Czech importer Žižkov, just for a glass, or a coffee with breakfast. The wine focus is Merlot d’Or. In the Passage you can safely expect the assistance of exclusively on France with a predominance of wines from Burgundy a professional sommelier and a range on offer that covers the key and the emphasis on affordable wine for good drinking. wine-growing regions. A great selection of Champagne, Cognac and Armagnac titles. Fajnšmekr (‘The Connoisseur’) q Finská 3, Prague 10 – Vršovice z +420 731 131 399 w www.fajnsmekr.com A favourite Vršovice wine-shop with its own imported wines as well as a shop selling farming products and delicacies. In the Fajnšmekr the focus is largely on authentic and natural wines from home and abroad. Natural wines with minimal intervention are actively promoted, putting on regular tastings where the lesser known and up-and-coming winemakers are introduced to the guests. A great stopping point if you want to catch an authentic natural wine from the region.

Vinograf Senovážné náměstí q Senovážné nám. 23, Prague 1 - Nové Město z +420 214 214 681 w www.vinograf.cz Wine bar, wine shop, and restaurant all in one – that’s Velký Vinograf (see pg. 40), the largest in a trio of venues focussed on offering a comprehensive selection of Czech and international wines. If you’re undecided, the sommeliers are happy to give you guidance based Passage Praha on your preferences. This branch offers nearly 800 types of wine, so you are certain to find something to please your palate.

54 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 55 with perfect support and all the necessary services, a number of VI. The wine year – wine events separate tasting rooms and a team of experienced specialists in Prague putting on wine tastings for audiences great and small, with accompanying seminars and presentations. Dozens of wine related events are held in Prague each year. Růžový máj (‘Rosé May’) Here we present only the traditional and established ones, w www.ruzovymaj.cz but due to the boom of a variety of gastronomic festivals, we This popular celebration of rosé wines with a long-standing tradition do recommend that you check the information about current is hosted by the organizers of Prague’s most popular farmer’s at the events on the w www.prague.eu website. Náplavka waterfront. The event, much akin to a public street party on the banks of the Vltava, has an unrivalled laid back atmosphere, and in addition to showcasing several dozen rosé producers g January encompasses food stalls and live music. Prague Wine Week w www.pww.cz Praha pije víno (‘Prague Drinks Wine’) w www.praguedrinkswine.cz Prague Wine Week is a selective festival of wines, wineries, and the culinary arts. For a number of years now the penultimate week The Festival makes for an exceptional gathering of winemakers of January has been a feast of food and wine tasting, presentation from all over Central Europe who are focused on viticulture and of wineries and importers, direct sales of wine in wine-shops and the production of high-quality natural wines. To be seen here are a gathering of professionals and wine lovers alike. wines from small family wineries in the regions of Austria, Hungary, Slovenia, Slovakia and Italy. The vintners of Moravia are also there, g May naturally. The event does not have an annual fixed date, being held either at the end of May or in early June. Svátek růžových vín (‘Rosé wine festival’) w www.wineofczechrepublic.cz g June Each year, the Festival launches the rosé wine season. The First Nejlepší česká vína v Praze of May is the traditional date for the Moravian and Bohemian rosé w www.cechcv.cz wine show in the attractive setting of Villa Richter and the adjacent St Wenceslas Vineyard at Prague Castle. The tasting takes place in The New Town Hall is the site of a young festival celebrating the the open air and offers over 100 samples of rosé wines from over 30 wines of Bohemia (the historical Czech region with Prague at its Moravian and Bohemian wineries. heart). Here you have a unique opportunity to try wines made in and around Prague, Karlštejn, Mělník, Roudnice nad Labem, Litoměřice, Wine Prague Velké Žernoseky, and other locations. w www.wineprague.com Pražské vinice The International Wine Fair brings to Prague the kind of professional w www.prague.eu/cs/vinice setting, wine trading terms and conditions and professional networking opportunities that the wider world is familiar with. The capital city of Prague organizes this annual event which The venture relies on modern and accessible trade-fair facilities opens the gates of municipal and private vineyards to the public. The festival’s aim is to help rediscover and promote the individual vineyards in Prague, introduce visitors to their history, present state and plans for the future, emphasizing the role they play in creating the Prague landscape. Some of the vineyards are located in protected natural areas and are inaccessible to the public the rest of the year, with many offering exceptional views of the city. g August Burčák (‘Sturm’) Burčák is drunk throughout the Czech Republic from August on. This Central European phenomenon is not of wine as such, but lightly fermented grape must, whose sweet taste and insidious alcohol content can bring headaches aplenty to the unwary. It may only be sold in the period from August 1st to November 30th and is

The56 NáplavkaWhere waterfront to go for wine in Prague Where to go for wine in Prague 57 most definitely worth trying. Please do watch out where you get it this renewed tradition is enjoying great popularity and the St from; due to its great popularity there are a lot of cheap products Martin’s menu with roast goose, potato lokše (flatbreads) and wine about, whose composition and quality can be justifiably open to (which has to carry a special label) is there to be savoured on 11/11 doubt. not only in numerous restaurants, but also at open-air events. For a current list see www.prague.eu. g September Letenská husa a košt Svatomartinského vína (‘The Vinobraní (‘wine harvest’) Letná goose and St Martin’s wine tasting’) September is the month when numerous events held in Prague w www.nzm.cz are referred to as Vinobraní. Typically, this is more about a folk festival with a selection of wines, of various quality and origin, A traditional feast associated with tasting and sale of St Martin and rather than anything enticing for lovers of this noble drink. Vintage young wines takes place in the grounds of the National Agricultural events do, however, often take place in attractive locations and Museum. The event includes demonstrations of traditional Czech with an entertaining programme, so if you want to have some wine crafts and visitors are allowed a free tour of the current short and bedazzled fun, feel free to take part. For a complete list of events, long term exhibitions at the Museum. visit www.prague.eu.

Trojské vinobraní (‘Troja vintage’) w www.mctroja.cz This traditional festival of good wine takes place in the baroque gardens of Troja Chateau. Each year dozens of Bohemian and Moravian wineries take part, with wine from Prague vineyards also represented. As well as the wine tasting, there is also Burčák on offer, guided wine tastings and informal seminars all about wine.

Vinobraní v Botanické zahradě Praha (‘The Prague Botanical Garden vintage’) w www.botanicka.cz The traditional vintage / wine-gathering at the St Clare Vineyard offers exclusive locally produced wine, and a showcase of top Bohemian and Moravian wines, with Burčák for good measure. In addition, you can book a guided tour of the wine production exhibition and so get to know so the whole production process in the local wine cellar.

Vinobraní na Grébovce (´Grébovka vintage´) w www.vinobraninagrebovce.cz The large, popular and family-friendly vintage festival held in the beautiful Grébovka park in Vinohrady entices visitors with wines and “burčák” from all over the country. In addition to wine, visitors can indulge in typical Moravian pastries and other specialties, as well as enjoy live entertainment. g November Svatomartinské víno (‘St Martin’s wine’), 11/11 France has its Beaujolais Nouveau, Czechia has St Martin’s wine. The Eleventh of November, the Feast Day of St Martin, has always been the date for sampling the fresh young wine of most recent vintage for the first time. This was also a time when all the harvest was gathered and safely housed, and ahead lay the peaceful advent time, with its pre-Christmas fasting. St Martin’s Day was thus always associated with much banqueting and revelry. Nowadays

58 Where to go for wine in Prague Where to go forVinograf wine Senovážné in Prague náměstí59 Directory

1. Alcron, Štěpánská 40, Prague 1 - Nové Město (B2) 26. Noelka, Slavíkova 3, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 2. Aromi, Náměstí Míru 6, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 27. Oliveira, Čermákova 1231/4, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 3. Atelier Red & Wine, Rošických 4, Prague 5 - Malá Strana (A2) 28. Osteria da Clara, Mexická 7, Prague 10 - Vršovice (B2) 4. Bellevue, Smetanovo nábř. 18, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 29. Passage Prague, V Celnici 10, Prague 1 - Nové Město (B1) 5. Bokovka, Dlouhá 37, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1) 30. Pot-au-feu, Rybná 13, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1) 6. Brut. - Wines & Oysters, Letohradská 13, Prague 7 – Letná (B1) 31. Prosekárna, Slezská 48, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 7. Café de Paris, Velkopřevorské náměstí 4, Prague 1 - Malá Strana (A1) 32. Prosekárna, Myslíkova 16, Prague 2 – Nové Město (A2) 8. Den Noc, Templová 7, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1) 33. Ráno kávu, večer víno, Kodaňská 4, Prague 10 – Vršovice (B2) 9. Divinis, Týnská 21, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 34. Red Pif, Betlémská 9, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 10. Eska, Pernerova 49, Prague 8 - Karlín (B1) 35. Salabka, K Bohnicím 2, Prague 7 - Trója (B1) 11. Fajnšmekr, Finská 3, Prague 10 - Vršovice (B2) 36. Svatováclavská vinice, between the Staré zámecké schody / 12. Field, U Milosrdných 12, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) Old Castle Steps and Na Opyši Street, Prague 1 - Hradčany (A1)

13. FLAVOURS wine & deli, Záhřebská 29, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 37. V Zátiší, Liliová 1, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1)

14. Grand Cru, Lodecká 4, Prague 1 - Nové Město (B1) 38. Veltlin, Křižíkova 115, Prague 8 - Karlín (B1)

15. Kalina cuisine & vins, Dlouhá 12, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 39. Villa Richter, Staré zámecké schody 251, Prague 1 - Hradčany (A1)

16. La Bottega Gastronomica, Ondříčkova 17, Prague 3 - Žižkov (B2) 40. Vinice Grébovka, Havlíčkovy sady, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2)

17. La Bottega di Finestra, Platnéřská 11, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 41. Vinice Salabka, K Bohnicím 2, Prague 7 - Trója (B1)

18. La Cave D‘Adrien, Americká 18, Prague 2 - Vinohrady (B2) 42. Vinice sv. Klára, Nádvorní 134, Prague 7 - Trója (B1)

19. La Degustation, Haštalská 18, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1) 43. Vino Markuzzi, Haštalská 3, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1)

20. La Finestra, Platnéřská 13, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 44. VINOdiVINO, Štupartská 18, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1)

21. Le Caveau, nám. Jiřího z Poděbrad 9, Prague 3 - Vinohrady (B2) 45. Vinograf Anděl, Radlická 1C, Prague 5 – Smíchov (A2)

22. L‘Fleur, V Kolkovně 5, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 46. Vinograf Míšeňská, Míšeňská 8, Prague 1 - Malá Strana (A1) 23. Manú, Dětský ostrov 25, Prague 5 - Smíchov (A2) 47. Vinograf Senovážné náměstí, Senovážné nám. 23, Prague 1 - Nové Město (B1) 24. Mlýnec, Novotného lávka 9, Prague 1 - Staré Město (A1) 48. Víno-klub, Benediktská 3, Prague 1 - Staré Město (B1) 25. Na břehu Rhôny, a.Na Hrobci 1, Prague 2 - Nové Město (A2)

b. Rašínovo nábř. 410/32, Prague 2 - Nové Město (A2) 49. VinVin, Táboritská 23, Prague 3 - Žižkov (B2) c. Francouzská 246/84, Prague 10 - Vršovice (B2) 50. Wine Food Market, Strakonická 1, Prague 5 - Smíchov (A2) d. Rohanské nábř. 657/7, Prague 8 - Karlín (B1) e. Puškinovo nám. 633/13, 160 00 Prague - 6 - Bubeneč (A1)

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With Prague City Tourism With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you‘ll feel maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. right at home in Prague.

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With Prague City Tourism maps and guides, you’ll feel right at home in Prague. Pick up these and other titles free of charge at one of our tourist information centres, where we’ll also be happy to assist. Old Town Hall, q Old Town Square No. 1, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m. Na Můstku, q Rytířská No. 12, Prague 1 r daily 9 a.m. - 7 p.m Discover the magic of Prague‛s neighbourhoods with our professional guides! Book your private tour via eshop.prague.eu.

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