Trick Or Chic NEW YORK — Candy Apples and Miniature Chocolate Bars May Please the Kids on Halloween, but It’S Accessories That Delight the Grown-Ups All Year Round

REVAMPING DKI RETAIL/2 FASHION’S ROMANTIC EVENING/8 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • October 31, 2005• $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Trick or Chic NEW YORK — Candy apples and miniature chocolate bars may please the kids on Halloween, but it’s accessories that delight the grown-ups all year round. For spring, designers have created a smorgasbord of spooky treats, such as, clockwise from right, Sonia Rykiel’s patent leather cat bag, Kate Spade’s raffia clutch, Gabriella Kiss’ bronze and diamond spider brooch, Lizzy Scheck’s gold and diamond necklace, a sterling and blue topaz necklace from Giles & Brother at Metropolitan Design Group and Dior Fine Jewelry’s gold and diamond ring. For more on All Hallow’s Eve, see pages 6 and 7.

Prada’s Five-Year Plan: Profits Seen Rising 23% a Year to 2010 By Amanda Kaiser the next five years, while its sales summer and which it released to NEW YORK — Prada is thinking big will increase by an average of 3.2 WWD last week. about its future. percent annually, reaching 1.51 The growth will come from The Italian luxury goods firm is billion euros, or $1.83 billion, by increased focus on the core brands projecting its profits will grow by an 2010, according to a document of Prada and Miu Miu, as well as average of 23.5 percent a year over Prada issued to bankers over the See Bertelli, Page 24 PHOTO ROBERT BY FASHION MITRA; ASSISTANT: ALESSANDRA STYLED BULOW; BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF 2 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Aronsson Details DKI Growth Plan By Sharon Edelson The new DKNY Las Vegas WWDMONDAY unit is a prototype for Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear NEW YORK — Less is sometimes more, as Donna future stores. Karan International has learned. FASHION After living through management changes, a The Halloween spirit has taken a bite out of designers and retailers, and the public stock offering, disappointing financial re- 6 proof is all over Gotham City, making the holiday as stylish as it is spooky. sults, an acquisition by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and persistent speculation that it’s for sale, DKI has slimmed down and toughened up. GENERAL “We have a strategy for future growth and prof- Prada is projecting profits to rise by an annual average of 23.5 percent in the itability,” said chief executive officer Jeffry 1 next five years, and sales to increase 3.2 percent a year to $1.83 billion. Aronsson. “We want to take what’s been a cash drain Donna Karan ceo Jeffry Aronsson said the firm has trimmed distribution to and turn it into a cash cow.” focus on key locations, leading to a 20 percent gain in full-price sales. As part of that strategy, it closed at least 70 under- 2 productive points of sale, including in-store shops, EYE: Sheryl Crow and Lance Armstrong were like a pair of high school outlet stores and other strategic partnerships. These 4 lovebirds at the dinner to fete the release of Crow’s new album, “Wildflower.” units comprised about half of the firm’s third-party of the long walls with views of the New York skyline. Celebrities and fashion stars gathered at Cipriani 42nd Street Thursday distribution, including 15 DKNY outlet stores and The prototype’s first incarnation will bow on 8 night for Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars. two full-price units. Thursday at the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace “We have emerged with a dramatic improve- in Las Vegas, followed by a flagship at the Ala INNERWEAR: Frederick’s of Hollywood cinched up the opening of its ment in operating results,” Aronsson said. “We Moana Center in Honolulu later in November. 14 Hollywood flagship with record corset sales at its Lingerie Art Auction. looked at stores that were not productive or not in The beauty of the new store design, said Classified Advertisements ...... 25-27 the right location.” Almost all of the shuttered out- Aronsson, is that it reflects the DKNY brand propo- let stores were in malls. sition, which is about “flexibility, starting with a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is Aronsson said trimming the distribution has al- foundation and layering unexpected combinations [email protected], using the individual’s name. lowed the company to focus on its best locations, like metals, irons and woods. The presentation of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 which in turn has led to a 20 percent increase in full- the merchandise shows the multitude of mix-and- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 190, NO. 94. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one price sales. match possibilities and is geared toward multiple additional issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional While he declined to discuss sales volume, unit transactions.” issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. sources said the DKNY division, which consists of Aronsson is first revamping freestanding and in- Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; Jill Bright, sportswear, accessories, jeans, fragrance, home, li- store shops with the new design outside of New York Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief censing and retail, has sales of about $1.7 billion. to get out the kinks and fine-tune it. Then it will be Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice On Oct. 18, LVMH released its third-quarter sales. ready for its debut “with cymbal clashes on Madison Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Finance director Jean-Jacques Guiony described Avenue,” he said. The prototype was introduced at Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: third-quarter sales for DKI as “flat,” and said that Selfridges in London and will soon bow at Harvey DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE further reductions in the outlet channel dented Nichols in London. It eventually will be deployed to INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; strength in retail, licensing and the DKNY line. DKNY’s 32 existing in-store shops around the world. or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one Aronsson said, “We’ve drastically cut off-price sales, DKI has big plans for DKNY in the Far East. year $145. All other U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one but we’re increasing our full-price sales. Our de- Aronsson said he waited until he saw the brand’s year $595. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For sired brand-building sales have increased.” sales results in Hong Kong trending positively be- permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: Of course, these initiatives are not new for DKI. fore negotiating any deals. “In May we had a comp- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would The company in the past has talked the same talk of sales increase in excess of 50 percent,” he said. “It’s interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at improved quality and better timed deliveries. “It been sustained because the product Mary [Wong, P. O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED started three years ago and we have completed it,” president of DKNY] is producing keeps getting bet- MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND said Aronsson, who has been with the company for ter and better.” TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED two years. This time, there’s the added element of a There are plans to open two DKNY stores in the TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE new store prototype, which Aronsson billed as a spring in China, with three more stores coming at ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. more productive store format. the end of 2006, Aronsson said, noting the company The design, which is based on a New York City will have a partner in the venture. At the same time, MONDAY: New York Spring II Apparel Market contin- loft, has floors of antique oak and polished concrete. DKNY is opening a flagship in the spring in South ues (through Friday). Rolling racks — the kind seen at flea markets — are Korea, with a partner. There could be as many as 50 Tax Free World Exhibition, Cannes, France used as fixtures. Merchandise also is displayed on freestanding stores and in-store boutiques in South (through Friday). rough wood tables. There’s a large-scale video pro- Korea. Some will be devoted to the entire product jector that beams 60-by-15-foot still images along one range, others, to jeans or accessories only. WEDNESDAY: WWD/DNR CEO Summit, New York (through Friday). Guess Inc. reports third-quarter sales and earnings.

THURSDAY: Major U.S. retailers report October Private Label Handbags same-store sales. High quality straw The ING New York City Marathon Health & Fitness Expo (through Saturday). and fabrics Filo yarn fair, Milan (through Friday). Competitive pricing CVS Corp., Steven Madden Ltd. and Warnaco Group report third-quarter sales and earnings. Low minimums Elizabeth Arden and Sara Lee Corp. report first- Gloves are a many quarter sales and earnings. splendored thing... Samples made in 2 weeks FRIDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the October employment report. Call 203-966-5611 212.869.2143 Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. reports second-quarter sales and earnings.

COMING THIS WEEK Charlotte Russe Holding reports fourth-quarter Some of your best customers will always be slow payers. and year-end sales and earnings. But if they’re forcing you to sit on your Unlike most other Factors, Sterling has all receivables, you can’t be maximizing your the resources of a full-service bank. Count on opportunities. us for everything from asset based lending, At Sterling, we help clients leverage equipment leasing, letters of credit, In Brief receivables to keep cash flowing and business international trade finance and more. ● growing. For a confidential evaluation of how we can OFF THE SLOPE: Ski and snowboard pants are off the China safeguard quota hit list. The federal Committee for the Our client relationships are up-close, personal, meet your working capital requirements more cost-effectively, call or email us today. Implementation of Textile Agreements said imports of ski and and long-term. We work hard to become a snowboard pants from China were not causing a disruption in the valued stakeholder in every client’s business. U.S. marketplace and starting Tuesday can be brought into the STERLING NATIONAL BANK country unhindered. The two products were included in the broader category of man-made fiber trousers that were put under STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION safeguard quotas in May and have been embargoed since Aug. 3. W ORKING CAPITAL. WORKING HARDER. Ski and snowboard pants that were embargoed will be released. John LaLota, Executive Vice President Robert Schnitzer, Dir. of Business Development CITA said it received new information indicating that there is Sterling Factors Corporation Sterling National Bank minimal domestic production of the limited-use product and that EST.1929 (212)575-4415 (212)575-4446 the exclusion doesn’t undermine the safeguard case for man- FDIC made fiber trousers. NYSE: STL [email protected] [email protected] Gisele play s with TTICA GROUP - MOD.TTICA GROUP 3555SB - 212-302-1200 VO PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY LUXO AND DISTRIBUTED PRODUCED www . vog ue - ey ewear. com 4 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM

David Lauren with Sheryl Crow Lauren Bush in with Lance Ralph Lauren. Armstrong, both in Ralph Lauren.

Uma Thurman in Prada and Tour de Force H.Stern. NEW YORK — Sheryl Crow and Lance Armstrong were as giddy as a pair of high-school lovebirds at the dinner David Lauren hosted Thursday night to celebrate the release of eye® Crow’s new album “Wildflower.” “They are the most wonder- ful couple,” Lauren said, while Crow and Armstrong blushed at their table. In between kissing and holding hands with her beau, Crow nibbled on her Sant Ambroeus supper and chatted with guests. The songstress, in town to perform on “Saturday Night Live” and at Lincoln Center, was clad in a curve-hugging Ralph Lauren suit rather than her usual down-home denim duds. “I own 175 pairs of cowboy boots,” she said. “And even before I was well-known I was collecting Ralph Lauren. Now I have so much that we’ve archived everything, and I always tell Ralph that if anything happens to me, I’m going to will every- thing to the Double RL Collection.” She’ll soon have one more piece, as the designer is making her wedding dress for her upcoming nuptials. In between courses, Joy Bryant, Jacquetta Wheeler and her boyfriend, Alexi Lubomirski, snuck out for quick smoke breaks. Bryant was still pumped from the U2 concert last week. “I just couldn’t believe that Bono came up to me,” she said about the backstage scene. “Then I met The Edge, and I couldn’t speak. My friend had to tell him that I was really excited to meet him, because I just stood there with my hand over my mouth. I still get so starstruck.” She shouldn’t — the willowy actress will soon be making a starring turn opposite 50 Cent in “Get Rich or Die Tryin’ .” Inside, the champion cyclist was clearly in high spirits. When the crowd — which included Lauren’s girlfriend Lauren Bush, his brother, Andrew, sister Dylan, Rachel Roy, Karolina Kurkova and Kelly Bensimon — toasted the happy couple, Armstrong FARRELL/PMC BILLY RONSON BY joked, “Hey, we actually got married last week in Rachel Roy Gigi Mortimer Vegas — but we’ll still take the dress!” Jackie Edie Karolina Uptown, Uma Thurman helped celebrate Astier in Falco Kurkova H.Stern at the International Neuroscience Emanuel in Ralph Foundation benefit held at Strata. The “Prime” Ungaro. Lauren. actress huddled with Zac Posen upstairs while Alex Kramer, Charlotte Ronson, Lulu de Kwiatkowski and Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss shim- mied on the dance floor to Eighties hits. “This place reminds me of the first show I did when I was, like, 15,” Posen said. “Modeled, I mean. It was for this line Alan and Suzy and there were a bunch of transvestites in it.” The previous night, Julianna Margulies, Edie Falco, Liza Minnelli and Larry King made it over to Cipriani 42nd Street for the Princess Grace Awards, where King admitted he’s been obsessing over the Judith Miller saga. “The whole press has Charlotte turned on her,” he said. “I couldn’t believe the Ronson access she had. But just because they’re big sources doesn’t mean they’re telling the truth.” Meanwhile, the always lively Lucy Sykes was holding court downtown at The Gramercy Park Hotel, where husband Euan Rellie, Bettina Zilkha and Olivia Chantecaille were previewing Tanner Krolle’s spring 2006 collection. “They asked me to be a co-host and I said, ‘Get me a free pair of boots and I’m there.’ ” Sykes laughed. “I’m a Joy Bryant reeeeeally cheap date.” in Ralph Earlier in the week, Gigi Mortimer, Alexis Lauren. Bryan and Marisa Noel Brown click-clacked their way into the Puck building for the Henry Street Settlement’s dinner dance and auction, where Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti, Jackie Astier and Alan Cumming and Mikhail Pilar Crespi Robert sipped champagne and Baryshnikov at Princess Grace. DAVID LAUREN PARTY AND PARTY LAUREN DAVID ZACK PHOTOS BY CUMMING/BARYSHNIKOV CLINT SPAULDING/PMC; THURMAN BY DAN D’ERRICO; SECKLER; HENRY STREET BY perused the silent auction offerings. Samples from the Paxar Autumn/Winter 05-06 Designer Collection

BRAND DEVELOPMENT CREATIVE SERVICES The bottom line is the brand. FABRIC LABELS GRAPHIC TAGS Make them want you. What’s the difference between $25 jeans and $80 jeans? HEAT TRANSFERS Between a $25 negligee and a $50 one? The brand. People buy the brand, and Paxar can make DURABLE PATCHES BRAND PROTECTION + EAS yours sell. We know the trends, the colors, the fabrics. We’ll show you innovative materials and techniques that crave attention. It’s all in our Paxar Designer Collections. Talk to us. We’ll take DATA MANAGEMENT GLOBAL SERVICE BUREAUS cost out of your supply chain and power-up your brand. It’s all about making them want you. INTERNET CATALOGING + ORDERING Sample the Paxar Designer Collections at www.paxar.com SUPPLY CHAIN SOLUTIONS or call 1. 888. 33.PAXAR for an exclusive showing. RFID + BARCODE

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© 2005 Paxar Corporation. All rights reserved. 6 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 Fright

PlanNEW YORK — The Halloween spirit has bitten designers and retailers, and the proof is all over Gotham City. “Halloween is a high-holy holiday for us,” said Patricia Field, “so our windows have to be eye-catching, and we dare to be different.” This year, store windows around town are decked out with monsters, witches, jack-o’- lanterns and gore, making the holiday just as stylish as it is spooky. Apparently, though, not spooky enough for some: “I think our windows are really scary, but I live by the Bleecker Street stores, so at night I stand outside and ask the kids if they’re scared, and they tell me, ‘No,’ ” said Robert Duffy, president of Marc Jacobs. He refused to divulge his costume for tonight, but admitted, “I’m going to be one part of a two-part costume — and it’s not the ass-end of a horse, I can promise you that.” — Carter Love

Marc By Marc Jacobs

Ralph Lauren, here, and above left.

Hotel Venus by Patricia Field. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 7 WWD.COM Cynthia Rowley Scare Tactics NEW YORK — If designers can get freaky on the runway, it’s frightening to think what happens on Halloween. WWD asked some members of New York’s fashion flock to reveal their all-time favorite costumes. Responses ranged from an inexplicable insurance salesman to a sexed-up Dorothy — with Peter Pan, Paris Hilton and a couple of hula girls thrown in for good measure. — Jennifer Montalvo

“Chiquita Banana, because it’s appealing and fun for the kids and sexy for my husband.” — Kimora Lee Simmons, Baby Phat Kimora Lee Simmons “My best Halloween costume was last year, when I as Chiquita Banana was Paris Hilton.” — Betsey Johnson with her friend, 2004.

“In 2002 at Heidi Klum’s bash, I was a Sixties bunny. I wore a Courrèges white jacket and pinned a tail on it, along with white jeans and bunny ears.” — Alice Roi

“People always compare me to Peter Pan, and Traver definitely has the dark mystery of a pirate, although he’s not quite as sinister as Captain Hook.”— Richie Rich, Heatherette

“In 1975, I joined the Halstonettes: Halston, Pat Cleveland, Alva Chin and Elsa Peretti. We all dressed up as Playboy bunnies except Halston, but I’m sure he wanted to. This year, I’ll be an insurance salesman — suit and tie with shinny shoes, a trilby and sunglasses.” — Stephen Burrows

Heatherette’s Last year, I was a Sixties Pan Am flight attendant, Traver Rains which went over well while trick-or-treating with my and Richie Cinderella daughter, and then later at Heidi Klum’s Rich, 2004. party.” — Rachel Roy

“My favorite costume, then and now, is anything store-bought — because all I ever cared about was the candy, anyway.” — Bryan Bradley, Tuleh

“Pocahontas. I wore it for several days leading up to Halloween. This year, I’m going to be a sexy pen- guin. I saw the movie [“March of the Penguins”] and now I’m obsessed with them.” — Vivia Ferragamo

“At this year’s Halloween ball to benefit Central Park Conservancy, we had a table of kings and queens as diverse as Elvis, Richard Simmons and 15th-century royalty — my husband and I bridged the gap by being a Bryan Fifties prom queen and Bradley, king.” — Nicole Miller 1973.

Marc By Marc Jacobs “Halloween is the perfect time to do whatever you feel like in terms of costumes.” — Alexandre Herchcovitch L’Uomo “When I was in my 20s, I [I wore] a fantastic mermaid tail my sister found. The tail still lives on, since every year someone in my design studio borrows it.” — Nanette Lepore Vivia Ferragamo, 1981. “Being naked, sandwiched by two thick foam mat- Charlotte and tresses that are burnt at the edges — I was the Samantha toast of the town!” — Kai Kuhne, Myself Ronson, 1986.

“Samantha and I dressed as hula girls when we spent Halloween in Hawaii. We wore bikini tops, leis and grass skirts.” — Charlotte Ronson

“October 2003 was [daughter] Ava’s first Halloween, and since she is our ‘wonder child,’ we thought Wonder Woman was a perfect costume for her.”— Cynthia Steffe

“Growing up in England, I didn’t have that sort of thing. But here, I’ve been told it’s a big deal. My 13- year-old son thinks that being a gangster like Al Capone would be really cool.” — George Sharp, Ellen Tracy vice president, design

“Edna Mode from ‘The Incredibles,’ but dressed as Elvira.” — Brian Reyes

Clown Alexandre “Sexy-sweet Dorothy from the ‘The Wizard of Oz.’ I Herchcovitch with designed a great outfit made of a plaid dress — with candystriper cleavage — and wore Robert Clergerie iridescent red Geanine Marques, satin sandals. It was so good, I’m thinking of being his muse, 2002. Dorothy again this year!” — Araks Yeramyan, Araks WINDOW PHOTOS BY JOHN CALABRESE AND SHANA OF THE DESIGNERS ALL OTHER PHOTOS COURTESY NOVAK; 8 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Romancing the Stars Meryl Streep in Valentino with Valentino. NEW YORK — “We’re here, we’ve landed,” cracked Sandra Bullock after squeezing her way through the thicket of people and cramped tables at the Fashion Group International’s Night of Stars. Meryl Streep, Patricia Clarkson and Naomi Campbell were among those who gathered at Cipriani 42nd Street on Thursday night to fete the fashion world’s alleged romantics — Valentino, Alberta Ferretti, Olivier Theyskens, Ralph Rucci, Pat McGrath, Prosper Assouline, architect William McDonough and Donald Trump. Host Simon Doonan kicked off the evening with one of his typically witty introductory speeches. Referencing the honorees as his for- mer lovers, he had the room in stitches as he spoke of everything from combing Theyskens’ long hair each night — “99, 100, 101” — to a fling with Valentino. Karen Elson “Ours was a torrid affair,” he said of the de- and Missy signer, the evening’s “Superstar” recipient. Rayder, both in “Long rain-soaked weekends on Val’s yacht, his Marc Jacobs. nautical ardor going full throttle. And Rome! So romantic, skipping down the Via Veneto, Val and Naomi Sandra I in our matching open-toed mandals.” Campbell in Bullock in Doonan described how Valentino taught him Valentino Valentino. to spray on fragrance as they stood at the top of Couture. the Spanish Steps and walked through a gentle cloud of scent. The designer took the ribbing well, Simon and his table-mate Lily Safra laughed so hard she Doonan was near tears. Campbell sashayed in just in time to hear Doonan’s riff, but soon caught quite a chill. Luck- ily, former flame Matteo Marzotto left his table and gallantly offered his coat which, of course, Campbell took. There were other tales of gentlemanly behav- ior. Bee Shaffer recalled Theyskens saving her muddied pink Rochas gown at the Costume In- stitute two years ago. “He found a water fountain and sponged my dress until it was perfect,” she said in presenting the Belgian designer with his

Olivier Theyskens Patricia Clarkson and Bee in Alberta Ferretti. Shaffer in Rochas. award. This was Shaffer’s first time speaking at such an occasion and she pulled it off with such poise and aplomb that her mother, Anna Wintour, offered her two- thumbs up from her table just below the stage. Streep, for her part, waxed poetic about Valentino, literally — she wrote verse for him. “He stays thin, he stays tan, the most elegant man,” the actress lyrically professed. Bullock, in champagne Valentino brocade, accepted an award for her humanitari- an efforts, but it was her figure that was on her mind with this fashion crowd. “Just to ease all your minds — I’m not pregnant, I’m just fluffier than most,” she said, finishing up her speech with, “Designers will hopefully always be able to create outfits which make my top half look bigger than my bottom half.” Bravo. Not that she needed to worry about such things that night. Doonan, urging the crowd to stick around for more dessert, promised naughtiness rather than caloric intake. “Donald Trump and Pat McGrath are going to do something rather unorthodox with a bucket of tiramisu,” he quipped. Sadly, in the end, there was no bucket of tiramisu and afterward, a flock of Valentino pals like Giancarlo Giammetti, Rosario of Bulgaria, John Legend, Charlene de Ganay and Bruce Hoeksema headed to The Double Seven for some champagne, vodka and out-and-out revelry. “I get paid for going to parties, but I am not getting paid to be here,” Legend said. “I came for Valentino.”

PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY — Anamaria Wilson and Marc Karimzadeh

Cheryl Tiegs. The scene was model heavy, too, with many Weber boys as well as Daria Werbowy, Trish Goff and Cordula Fashion Scoops Reyer. Mischa Barton, for one, aimed to be next. “I’m such a big fan,” she gushed to Weber, who just as enthusiastically CLICK CLICK CLUB: The tables were reversed at the opening shot back, “I want to shoot you. Call me.” of Bruce Weber’s “Whirligig” show at the Fahey/Klein Gallery in Los Angeles Thursday night, with fewer hired VICTORIA’S SECRET PREVIEW: Victoria’s Secret will be pulling photographers than the bold-faced ones who turned out to out all the stops for its Nov. 9 fashion show, which will be fete their fellow lensman — among them Mario Sorrenti, taped in New York City. The show will reportedly open with Craig McDean, Peggy Sirota (who just shot the Man of the jazz musician Chris Botti, whose new CD was launched in the Year issue for GQ, whose creative director, Jim Moore, flew in U.S. last week and is already number one on the jazz charts just for the party), Paul Jasmine, David Sims and Karl with over 45,000 units sold. Latin pop idol Ricky Martin is Lagerfeld, who clicked away on his tiny silver digital camera. Bruce expected to close the show, which will feature Victoria’s It wasn’t the only photo moment of the week for Lagerfeld, Weber and Secret’s traditional parade of sex-charged lingerie on who drew quite a crowd in front of the Chanel store on Karl supermodels, according to sources. The multimillion-dollar Rodeo Drive the day before as he shot for the next ad Lagerfeld Mary-Kate Olsen fashion and entertainment extravaganza will appear on CBS in campaign. But at the gallery and after-party at Miauhaus PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA early December and is internationally syndicated. Seal is studios up the road, the focus was on Weber. Copies of his before Nicolas Ghesquière, Michael Ovitz and Mary-Kate Olsen expected to be a guest, and Heidi Klum will be appearing for new “Blood, Sweat and Tears, or How I Stopped Worrying arrived. “I adore working with Bruce because he just gets a the first time for the company since having a baby. Victoria’s and Learned to Love Fashion” (teNeues) were long sold out party going and then shoots life as it happens,” purred Secret officials could not be reached. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report

Boucheron president Jean- Bedos Polishes Boucheron’s High End Christophe By Robert Murphy sents the efforts to bring the brand back in line with its roots. Bedos. Designed by Jean-Pierre Hanke to resemble a sumptuous PARIS — When Jean-Christophe Bedos arrived as president of town house, it has a lighter and more open feel than it had in its Boucheron in April 2004, he started sifting through the archives that previous incarnation. the Place Vendôme jeweler had accumulated since it opened in 1852. The studio that was directed by Solange Azagury-Partridge “I spent six months immersed in them,” said Bedos, who had before she left in May 2004 has been reshuffled, too. left his position as managing director at Cartier in France to join “Traditionally, a team approach is applied to the creation of jew- the company. elry,” said Bedos. “More than a designer’s vision, what’s important His reasons were twofold. For one, he didn’t want to “apply to is the vision of a house.” Boucheron the same Cartier recipes.” He also suspected the brand, Three designers who were with the firm “before, during and brought into Gucci Group’s stable during the acquisition days of after Solange” provide the impetus for new creations, explained Tom Ford and Domenico De Sole, had plenty of heritage left to Bedos, adding that he, too, has assumed a part as a creative arbiter. “shore up and consolidate.” “My role is not to design, but to orchestrate the whole — to “What I discovered was impressive,” said Bedos, who hosted incarnate the philosophy and to give the conceptual and intel- a party during the Paris collections to unveil the brand’s reno- lectual guidelines,” he said. “This is a fabulous brand that’s been vated maison. “I found a house with roots that today are incred- a little bit asleep. But it’s really very modern. It’s mystery, luxury ibly modern.” and rarity that we’re showing today.” PHOTO BY THIERRY CHOMEL PHOTO BY In his first interview about the direction in which he’s guiding Boucheron, Bedos said the brand will move upscale with its high jewelry lines, but also will boost other categories, including the important watch category. Representative of the direc- tion, an upscale jewelry collection Boucheron introduced this sum- mer saw average prices increase by 40 percent, with necklaces dripping with diamonds, emer- alds and other exquisite stones. The gambit paid off, Bedos said. Most pieces over a million euros, or $1.2 million at current ex- change, already have sold. “The high jewelry customer today wants more extraordinary pieces,” he said. “They don’t want something run-of-the-mill. They have money and they want pieces that are out of this world.” Concurrent to the high jewelry launch, Boucheron also launched a collection riffing on the house’s signature serpent design, a less- expensive ring collection and three different wristwatches. “It was the most products that we launched at one time,” said Bedos, adding that a higher level of creativity would lead efforts to bring the money-losing business into the black by 2007. Strides have been made al- ready. This year, Bedos said sales have grown 50 percent, thanks to brisk business with high-ticket items. Meanwhile, operating ex- penses have been reduced 25 per- cent through administrative re- structuring since he took over. Gucci Group doesn’t break out Boucheron’s financial figures, but when reporting second-half earn- ings last month, the firm said its “other brands” unit — including Boucheron, Balenciaga, Alexand- er McQueen, Sergio Rossi, Bedat & Co. and Stella McCartney — saw losses trimmed by 39.9 percent to 25.7 million euros, or $33.1 million. In July, second-half sales for this same group of brands was up 45.8 percent to 64.9 million euros, or $81.8 million. “Gucci Group sees Boucheron not as a global luxury brand, but [as] very selective, even niche,” Bedos said. This is somewhat of a depar- ture from the Ford-De Sole days, when there were plans to open some 40 Boucheron boutiques around the world. The firm now operates 25 free- standing boutiques, and Bedos said only a couple of new shops in cities such as Geneva and New Yo rk would eventually bow. For the moment, he said the revamped Paris shop best repre- 10 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Accessories A Big Bang at Silmo’s Eyewear Fair By Emilie Marsh PARIS — The bigger the better was the can’t-miss fash- ion message at Silmo, the eyewear show that ended its four-day run at the Port de Versailles exhibition halls here Oct. 24. A look by Face à Face. While styles continued to increase in size, frames were less flamboyant, resulting in cleaner more elegant looks. cide between wearing goggles or sunglasses,” Marcolin “Frames are very big,” said Felice Dee Muchnick, said. “It’s a new eyewear category.” owner of the Felice Dee Eyewear shop in New York. Alain Marhic, artistic director for Quiksilver’s watch Muchnick said eyewear sales were “very good” and and eyewear division based in Hossegor, France, also that she would increase her budget to include more emphasized the importance of technical performance contemporary and colorful looks. in sportswear looks. “Multiple tones and lots of bright colors are a strong “Although fashion aspects are very important, it’s essen- A Dolce & Gabbana style. look,” she said. tial to focus on technical aspects,” Marhic said, adding that Anna Bjõrnsson, owner of Gleraugnaverlunin, a con- Vendors were upbeat, citing a strong showing of Quiksilver was reducing its product range. temporary eyewear boutique based in Reykjavik, Japanese, American and Canadian buyers eager to add The smaller range will offer customizing options for Iceland, said, “Next summer will be even more colorful. large frames to their assortments. buyers, such as choice of colors, logos and detailing on Today, eyewear is worn as jewelry.” “Big shapes that are elegant and clean with finely fin- branches. Marhic said 2005 sales for Quiksilver’s eye- Bjõrnsson said she would increase her budget by 25 ished details and less-loaded looks are key,” said Maurizio wear division would increase by as much as 27 percent. percent. Marcolin, chief executive officer of Italy’s Marcolin Group. Pascal Jaulent, president of Paris-based Face à Face, Visitor traffic to Silmo was up 2 percent to 43,484. Marcolin feted its new Tom Ford signature eyewear noted that the firm is playing with the architectural as- collection. That booth was the buzz of the show, but it pects of frames, such as metal and plastic combos and wasn’t the only newcomer. Just Cavalli launched its three-dimensional effects. Jaulent said the Lagoon II, a eyewear collection with Marcolin, while Montblanc large frame that slightly contours the face and sells for presented its first full women’s eyewear line. Dolce & $375 at retail, was a bestseller at the show. The eyewear Gabbana also showed frames under a firm also launched its first jewelry line, a selection of The North Face’s Thin Air. new license with Luxottica Group, based necklaces ranging at retail between $38 for a plastic sil- in Italy. houette to $390 for a silver and glass piece. While fashionable frames have be- Many manufacturers reported strong sales for cor- come a must-have accessory, sportswear rective eyewear. labels are upping the technology quotient. Theo, an Antwerp, Belgium-based eyewear manufac- The North Face, for example, introduced its turer known for avant-garde corrective eyewear, first optical hybrid for the winter ski season, a com- launched its first sunglass collection for around $400 re- bination of goggles and sunglasses dubbed Thin Air. tail. It features a colorful array of acetate frames created The style has elastic straps for a snug fit, three-dimen- with Belgian women’s wear designer Christoph Broich. sional nose pads and a removable foam that molds the “If eyewear is now the ultimate fashion accessory, we face and prevents fogging. may as well bring in the designers,” said Theo president “Skiers and board riders will no longer have to de- Somers Wim.

The One she gave herself.

The Only.

Go on. Give in. 800.962.2813 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 11 WWD.COM Accessories ALilly Pulitzer scarf.

variety of interpretations feature Swiss construction, a feminine, but in a more modern, sexy, signature clasp of sapphire crystal, mother-of-pearl faces and sleek way,” said Dina Battipaglia, FINDINGS diamonds. Retail prices open at $15,000. president of Liz Claiborne and A VISION OF ELEGANCE: Lanvin soon can add “I’ve evolved in my career and I want to do things that contemporary accessories. “She’ll eyewear to its assortment of accessories reflect my lifestyle,” Dash said. “Tiret is so exclusive that you wear what is traditionally known as a offerings. The Paris fashion house has signed almost have to have a membership to even shop the brand. We social element during the day, too.” a licensing agreement with French firm are very carefully choosing the stores that will carry it.” The collection comprises 18 L’Amy Group for a line of women’s and men’s handbag silhouettes and 100 jewelry ophthalmic and sunglass frames. MELROSE SPACE: Add Me&Ro jewelry to the list of brands styles. Wholesale prices for the A L’Amy spokeswoman said the collection moving into the once sleepy, tree-lined enclave that is West handbags range from $54 to will seek to deliver a balance between Hollywood’s Melrose Place. $150, while the jewelry is classic and modern, for which Lanvin has Me&Ro, known as much for its simple aesthetic and one-of- wholesaling from $15 to $85. become known under the direction of Alber a kind stones as for its celebrity following, is joining Diane von The collection is retailing at Elbaz. Furstenburg, Marni, Marc Jacobs, Tracey Feith and soon-to-be Laundry stores and through The looks, which will retail from $200 neighbor Temperley on Dec. 1. This marks the third store and department and specialty stores. to $300, are scheduled to preview at first West Coast outpost for Me&Ro. The company has a the Mido optical trade fair in Milan location at the Shore Club in Miami and on Elizabeth A PULITZER PRIZE: What’s this May and will launch in high- Street in Manhattan’s NoLIta district. good for charity can be good end department stores, specialty At 1,300 square feet, this will be the for business. That’s the stores and optical boutiques in the company’s largest store. Among its assortment case with Lilly Pulitzer, U.S. beginning in August. will be a small collection of earrings and rings which has sold so many crafted of rare, 1,000-year-old coral beads scarves to benefit the RUSSIAN DRESSING: Damon Dash likes paired with 22-karat gold. There also will be Susan G. Komen Breast the sound of his name in many languages. limited-edition pieces, including a necklace Cancer Foundation On Wednesday, the hip-hop mogul, who of faceted lapis beads on either a black that it has added announced his departure from Rocawear leather cord or a 22-karat gold wire A Laundry by three styles to its just over a month ago, held the first press chain, as well as a clear golden quartz Shelli Segal spring collection. preview for his year-old, high-end watch necklace designed with teardrops and handbag. The scarves are collection, Tiret, which means “dash” in marquis-shape beads. made of silk twill Russian. He said the name was as much a with hand- tribute to himself as his co-designer, Daniel A CLEAN STATEMENT: rolled Lazar, who was born in the country and grew Beginning this month for the edges A Tiret to prominence after designing flashy watches holiday retail season, and watch. for Jacob & Co. Laundry by Shelli Segal, feature five “Damon already knew about me,” Lazar which has been owned bright floral and said. “We were introduced and we clicked. by Liz Claiborne Inc. fauna prints typical of We decided we wanted to be partners in since 1999, is offering Pulitzer. They are offered creating a very distinguished-looking an assortment of in an oblong shape retailing for timepiece.” handbags and jewelry. $78, a neckerchief for $58 and a The oversize round or oval watches in a “The Laundry girl is large square for $120. UNDRY PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT UNDRY PHOTO BY LA 12 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Legwear Report Connect the Dots

NEW YORK — Graphic dots are afoot for spring. Legwear manufacturers are layering the motifs and using them to create other patterns, including argyle. Colors such as lime green and turquoise, meanwhile, add a bright pop.

Emilio Cavallini’s nylon and spandex Ozone’s cotton, nylon and spandex socks. tights.

Hue’s nylon and spandex anklets. K. Bell’s cotton and nylon sock. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODEL: DESIREE DYMOND/FORD; STYLED BY DANIELA GILBERT STYLED BY CENTENO; MODEL: DESIREE DYMOND/FORD; TALAYA PHOTOS BY fresh american style SOCKS

SHOP ONLINE AT TOMMY.COM 14 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Corset Auction Clears $95K LOS ANGELES — Frederick’s of Hollywood marked the opening of its fetched $18,000. The previous record was $9,000 for a Sharon flagship in Hollywood with record-breaking corset sales at the third Stone-designed corset in 2003. Kidman’s design of white satin annual Lingerie Art Auction on Thursday night and a fashion show with painted flowers and crystals running down the bodice the previous night. brought $10,000. The lingerie retailer is also preparing to roll out a more sophisti- The event, which benefited the Tuberous Sclerosis Alliance, cated store model at other locations across the U.S. raised $95,000 and also brought out Val Kilmer, Cuba Gooding Jr. “This has been a long time coming,” said Frederick’s chief execu- and Matthew Perry. Moore, who is a spokeswoman for the TS tive officer, Linda LoRe. “It’s been a dream of mine to see this hap- Alliance, has participated in the event since its inception and pen. The store is sexy in such a classy way.” hosted it for the first time this year. The iconic lingerie retailer, which generates annual sales of $200 “I tried to think of something that was relevant when designing million through its 150 stores, catalogues and e-commerce business, is my corset,” said Moore, whose charcoal-colored velvet number calling the newly designed flagship the “Modern Hollywood” look. featured crystal peace signs hanging from the hem. “And with the LoRe said the next store to feature the same flavor would be the war [in Iraq], I thought it was appropriate.” Westfield Century City location in West Los Angeles, set to open in Asked if she was a Frederick’s shopper, Moore blushed and December. Fifteen stores have opened this year. Five stores in a said, “I’m more of an Eres shopper, frankly.” scaled-down version will be opened in 2006. The actress, who had not had a chance to tour the spacious new The company has been slowly remodeling its other stores, relocat- location, might be surprised at the more upscale offerings now ing existing units and adding new ones that promote a more intimate available from the 60-year-old, Hollywood-based company that in- boutique lingerie shopping experience. troduced sexy black lingerie to consumers after World War II. In a nod to old Hollywood glamour, the new 4,500-square-foot, bi- Looks that cater to a more fashion-forward crowd include color level store on Hollywood Boulevard, one block east of Grauman’s palettes such as chocolate and pink, tweed-and-satin corsets re- Chinese Theater and the Kodak Theater, home of the Academy tailing for $75, embroidered bra and panty sets for $132, fake-fur Awards, features a dramatic crystal chandelier above the cash wrap capelets for $48 and fur-trimmed bras for $32. Merchandise is and a staircase to the mezzanine level. Swarovski crystal sconces are grouped in style shops, with sections for corsets, boyshorts, in the store and in dressing rooms — which have a dimmer switch for camisoles, push-up bras, cotton basics and the company’s recently customers to see themselves in all light — and artsy, oversize photos launched “Seduction” and “White Hot” collections. of models adorn the walls. Of course, there is also the company’s Customers will still be able to find Frederick’s favorites, such as trademark leopard-print carpet. garter belts and maribou-embellished mules, both prominent on the The modernization can even be seen in the spacious waiting area, runway Wednesday at the Avalon Club in Hollywood for throngs of which features contemporary white leather seating and white lacquer men holding up cell phone cameras in hopes of stealing a sexy shot. nesting tables. The lounge on the second floor serves as a VIP area, Previously, both the auction and fashion show were on the and customers can also reserve it free of charge for showers, parties same night. But people familiar with the event said that it was and other events. split into two this year because the auction crowd and club-going Julianne Moore, dressed in a deep olive Burberry dress and cardi- crowd at the runway shows didn’t mingle well. gan and Roger Vivier sandals, inaugurated the more glamorous look. LoRe said she was pleased with the turnout at both events and Moore was host to 300 guests who bid on 30 corsets designed by Nicole looking forward to the holiday season, despite the business chal- celebrities including Moore, Nicole Kidman, Melanie Griffith, Charlize Kidman’s lenges facing the industry. “The merchandise looks fantastic and Theron, Sandra Bernhard and Tea Leoni. Six corsets were auctioned corset fetched we have bullish plans, but we are dependent on mall traffic. We live Thursday, and the rest were auctioned silently and on eBay. $10,000. pray there are no more hurricanes.” Theron’s design of chocolate-colored satin with tulle and beading — Michelle Tyree

A seductive ambience permeates the new Frederick’s of Hollywood flagship.

Cuba Val Gooding Jr. Kilmer

Linda LoRe and Charlize Theron’s corset Julianne Moore’s sexy velvet corset. Julianne Moore went for $18,000. TYLER BOYE SARDELLA; STORE AND CELEBRITY PHOTOS BY AUCTION, DONATO ASHION SHOW PHOTOS BY F

16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Fashion Shows Its Classical Side

NEW YORK — Fashion industry executives got some classic treatment Tuesday, when Josie Natori and Georgia Frasch were hosts of a champagne cocktail party for the Orchestra of St. Luke’s. About 50 guests, including Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Elie and Rory Tahari, Tiffany Dubin, John Pomerantz, Ron Frasch and Vera Wang and husband Arthur Becker listened to a chamber music recital by three string players, a flutist and a pianist. The music, which in- cluded Mozart’s “Requiem,” was played at the Manhattan home of Josie and Kenneth Natori. The orchestra appeared at Carnegie Hall on Thursday with principal conductor Donald Runnicles on the podium, also for a performance of “Requiem.” Marianne Lockwood, executive director and founder of St. Luke’s, said Josie Natori joined the organization’s board after the orchestra Elie Tahari and accompanied Natori’s piano recital at Carnegie Hall in 1997. Marianne Lockwood “We had to do something in honor of Josie and every- thing she has done for us,” Lockwood said. Donald Georgia Frasch, who also recently joined the St. Luke’s Runnicles board, said, “I just adore chamber music, so much so I had Bach ‘Cantatas’ played at our wedding. But I told my hus- band, ‘This is a wedding, not a recital.’ ” Georgia and Ron Frasch, who is vice chairman of Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises, were married in 2002 at the Natori’s home in Pound Ridge, N.Y. Josie and Meanwhile, cocktail chat ranged from the 20-year histo- Kenneth Natori ry of St. Luke’s performing in major halls, schools and pri- vate homes, to diet advice for the fashion-conscious and a Jana new generation of contemporary opera, such as “Doctor Klauer Atomic,” which was conducted by Runnicles and was a three-week sellout this month at the San Francisco Opera. Mark Badgley and Jana Klauer, an internist and nutritionist who penned “How James Mischka The Rich Get Thin” (St. Martin’s Press), due out in January, gave pointers to guests on how to maintain a slim figure. “You must exercise every day, curb your cravings and eat protein,” Klauer said. “I decided five years ago it was diet that was responsible for a lot of my patients’ illnesses, such as high cholesterol, osteoporosis and diabetes.” Runnicles said he was “very encouraged” by the new opera’s success. “It’s a deeply disturbing subject and has caused much debate and controversy,” he said. “I think it will enable some [opera] companies to choose subject matter that is close to us, less about being historical and more to which we can relate today.” “Doctor Atomic,” created by John Adams, is about physi- cist J. Robert Oppenheimer and the project to develop the world’s first atomic bomb. The cast is ultimately confront- ed with the moral crisis of using the weapon on Japanese John Ron and citizens at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. Pomerantz Georgia Frasch

— Karyn Monget ZACK SECKLER PHOTOS BY It STRETCHES

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LALAME, Inc. 132 W.36th St., 11th Fl. New York, NY 10018 • Tel: 212.921.9770 • Fax: 212.302.4359 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 17 WWD.COM Innerwear Report Playboy Makes Big Jump Down Under

MELBOURNE, Australia — The bun- bitious 10- to 12-store rollout Chronis nies are hopping Down Under. Playboy Enterprises plans expansion of Playboy has for Australia and New Zealand About 250 people converged on Concept Boutiques in Australia and New Zealand. over the next five years. trendy Chapel Street in the South Regarding the stores’ format, simi- Yarra shopping strip last month to toast larities exist among the three stand- the arrival of the world’s third free- alones here and in Las Vegas and standing Playboy Concept Boutique. Tokyo, courtesy of WalkerGroup’s in- The 27,000-square-foot Melbourne teriors for the concept: futuristic ze- boutique is the world’s biggest Playboy brawood-and-silver merchandising store and the first in Australia. It isn’t as cubes, and white lacquer fixturing flamboyant as the campy, 20,000-square- and mirrored tiled walls. foot Las Vegas boutique that opened in Melbourne has two other points of dif- May or as trendy as the three-year-old, ference. It’s the first store to use the new 24,000-square-foot unit in Tokyo. rabbit-head logo-emblazoned Playboy On hand to greet guests at the carpet and the first to sell Playboy’s new opening party in Melbourne were high-end Playboy Icon eveningwear. Playmate of the Year Tiffany Fallon The Playboy Icon collection takes and actor Johnny Knoxville, who was up 20 percent of the store’s floor space in Australia to promote the release of and comprises silk cocktail dresses of “The Dukes of Hazzard.” satin and georgette, often emblazoned Aaron Duncan, Playboy’s vice pres- with digitally printed graphics incor- ident and creative director of global porating the rabbit-head logo. licensing, who was here for the “We sell a lot of eveningwear in launch, said stores in Hong Kong and Europe, as well, [but] this is the Kuala Lumpur, Malasia, are expected launch of our more high-end Icon col- to open by year’s end. The rollouts are lection,’’ Duncan said. “We are start- part of what Duncan said is a “mini- ing to do a tiered business. Chris has mum” 13-store Playboy Concept Boutique campaign over the next three years. a great vision and we developed this with him.” “We’re talking about the world market, we’re not talking about having two or three Alongside the Icon range, intimate apparel and casual apparel account for 20 per- stores in every world city,” Duncan said. “We’re talking [in each case] about a prof- cent each of the merchandise split, with the remainder of the business taken up by itable, strategic location. It’s not just for image, it has to make money. That’s key.” jewelry, watches, Playboy bar accessories, swimwear, sunglasses and pet accessories. An important ingredient of that strategy will be the expansion of Playboy Pink and “Australia is one of our best markets per sales capita,’’ Duncan said. “It’s a really White label lingerie, as well as a new eveningwear collection called Playboy Icon. large market for us. I’ve been coming to Australia for years and I always think of The Melbourne unit was designed by Playboy Enterprise’s Australian retail licens- Australia as the best of a lot of different places. It’s the best of the U.K., the best of ee, Christopher Chronis, who predicted the store would generate $2 million in first- America, it’s kind of that gateway to Asia….It seems like an open-minded culture year sales. If the store meets target, Chronis said the plan will be to open Playboy here. Everyone likes to live life to the fullest and that’s key to the Playboy attributes.” stores in Sydney and on Queensland’s Gold Coast within 12 months as part of an am- — Patty Huntington

The Intimate Apparel Council Presents INTIMATE APPAREL: THE ULTIMATE CONNECTION

2005 Intimate Apparel Council Featuring Member Companies MARSHAL COHEN Barry Ross Intimate Connections Chief Industry Analyst Bendon NA/Elle Macpherson Intimates The NPD Group The Bromley Group, LLC

Carole Hochman Designs Group November 9, 6:00pm-8:00pm Chantelle Lingerie, Inc. Union League Club

Charles Komar & Sons, Inc. 38 East 37th Street (at Park Ave) New York, NY Chelsea Design Group Cohen will speak on: Delta Galil Ltd., USA xWhy Intimates Connect So Well With Consumers Eileen West xWhat Changes Have Occurred To Connect Even More Fashion Forms With Consumers

Hanky Panky xFit 2006 xLifestyle Marketing, Not So Simple Is It? Hanro USA, Inc. Attendees will receive a copy of Cohen’s first book Invista “Why Consumers Do What They Do” Jockey International, Inc. NYC Event Calendar 2006: Kellwood Company January 11 - RFID Update & Business Meeting March 1 - Ken Hicks, JCPenney Lovable World Trading Co., Inc. May 10 - Dorrit Bern, Charming Shoppes, Inc. August 2 - Robert Skinner, Kellwood Company Movie Star, Inc. November 1 - Marshal Cohen, The NPD Group The NPD Group The Intimate Apparel Council (IAC) is a division of the O'Bryan Brothers, Inc. American Apparel & Footwear Association. Rago Foundations LLC The council’s purpose is to stimulate the growth of the Russell Newman Ltd. intimate apparel business. It cooperates with consult- Sara Lee Branded Apparel ants and others in gathering information of special

Spotless Enterprises concern to intimate apparel manufacturers and en- gages in public relations programs for the benefit of VF Intimates the consumer, retailer and manufacturer. Warnaco Inc. For IAC membership or program information, contact Mary Howell at 703.797.9045 www.apparelandfootwear.org 18 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW P/E (00’S) LAST CHANGE Martin + Osa Must Create Own Niche RETAILERS 74.10 38.51Abercrombie Abercrombie & &Fitch Fitch 17.4 92153 49.58 -0.39 35.46 18.05Aéropostale Aéropostale 12.3 46920 18.65 -1.12 By Meredith Derby 34.04 19.67American American Eagle Eaters 11.5 125094 22.39 -0.79 28.75 19.98Ann Ann Taylor Taylor 64.4 40010 23.80 -0.79 NEW YORK — Equity analysts 30.97 13.11Bebe Bebe 20.5 37850 13.64 -2.62 say there’s room in the special- 3.59 1.20Bluefly Bluefly - 5361 1.64 -0.03 ty retail market for American 23.22 11.12Bon-Ton Bon-Ton 12.2 5042 16.66 -0.79 44.08 21.02Burlington Burlington Coat Coat 15.4 5109 38.20 0.30 Eagle Outfitters Inc.’s new 18.53 10.90Caché Cache 20.4 15082 15.71 0.52 Martin + Osa concept, but to 22.27 15.02Cato Cato 15.0 7516 19.80 -0.55 make it work, the retailer has 17.90 8.84Charlotte Charlotte Russe Russe 47.1 13191 16.85 -0.17 12.34 7.00Charming Charming Shoppes Shoppes 16.0 28356 11.13 0.12 to differentiate its product. 41.67 18.85Chico’s Chico's FAS FAS 39.7 86307 37.91 -1.16 Since the retailer has not 52.94 29.83Children’s Children's Place Place 31.6 34685 41.16 1.90 shared details such as product 31.60 21.40CVS CVS 20.1 272571 25.12 -1.01 31.35 20.38Deb Deb Shops Shops 15.5 459 25.28 -0.01 specs, fabrications or price 28.60 18.91Dillard’s Dillard's 14.0 32403 19.68 -0.46 points, analysts can’t nail down 22.80 17.75Dollar Dollar General General 17.6 87141 19.07 -0.34 what Martin + Osa will be com- 26.77 15.19Dress Dress Barn Barn 13.7 12120 24.99 -0.30 59.21 30.78eBay eBay 51.1 871595 38.43 -0.86 peting against. 35.25 19.40Family Family Dollar Dollar 16.1 73461 21.51 -0.45 Although American Eagle de- Martin + Osa: Ken Pilot and Michele and Charles Martin. 78.05 49.07Federated Federated 12.7 136270 59.51 -1.50 clined to comment, analysts said 29.95 18.75Foot Foot Locker Locker 11.1 69396 19.19 -0.94 23.75 15.90Gap Gap 11.9 199030 16.87 0.53 potential rivals include newer at Susquehanna Financial ready be a bit crowded. But she 11.10 6.66Goody’s Goody's - 43436 9.48 0.66 retail concepts such as Rugby Group, said in a recent re- conceded, “If they can figure out 12.45 5.85Gottschalks Gottschalks 18.7 1501 8.48 0.03 from Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., search report that the brand something that’s unique with 27.10 11.58Guess Guess 28.8 23619 25.96 0.18 Forth & Towne from Gap Inc., would likely offer such “classic the fabric and fashion and do 2.10 0.60Harold’s Harold's Stores Stores - 248 0.75 -0.05 23.49 13.51Hot Hot Topic Topic 18.1 35898 14.18 -0.36 Janeville from Gymboree Corp. selections” as woven tops, ox- something different with the 57.99 34.03J.C. J.C. Penney Penney 16.9 136450 49.01 -1.01 and Ruehl from Abercrombie & fords, polos, jeans and T-shirts. product, then it’s not crowded.” 58.90 43.63Kohl’s Kohl's 18.9 205869 45.59 -1.57 Fitch Co. Other possible com- He expects prices to be 50 to Guthrie said American 27.89 18.81Limited Limited Brands Brands 14.0 95450 19.32 0.18 18.66 6.72Mothers Mothers Work Work 33.3 1134 8.00 -0.03 petitors are Banana Republic, J. 100 percent higher than those Eagle has focused on creating 100.98 59.21Neiman Neiman Marcus Marcus - 0 99.98 0.00 Crew, Eddie Bauer and J. Jill, as of the American Eagle brand. a utility feel for its namesake 24.41 11.78New New York York & &Co. Co. 13.7 10594 12.70 0.80 well as Urban Outfitters’ Free Martin Brill, president of brand, which caters to young 37.96 21.34Nordstrom Nordstrom 18.6 75520 32.77 -0.89 29.05 20.33Pacific Pacific Sunwear Sunwear 15.6 73166 24.10 0.46 People brand and White Sweetwater Consulting in New men and women ages 15 to 25. 46.88 33.86Regis Regis 26.6 13612 37.35 1.17 House/Black Market, which is Jersey, said American Eagle has “They really try to explore util- 14.34 6.02Retail Retail Ventures Ventures - 24919 9.99 0.64 owned by Chico’s FAS. found a void for Martin + Osa to ity, and they really try to focus 31.37 22.34Ross Ross Stores Stores 20.1 73984 25.88 -0.10 24.64 11.97Saks Saks 23.9 67911 16.66 0.11 American Eagle has said, fill, as Gap’s new Forth & Towne on unique fabric, so [focusing 163.50 84.51Sears Sears 9.3 145283 117.45 -4.29 however, that the Martin + Osa concept is attempting to fill the on fabrication at Martin + Osa] 28.68 16.76ShopKo ShopKo 16.8 28391 28.64 0.28 brand will cater to active, ad- void in the over-35 age group. is not out of lockstep with what 32.07 22.20Stage Stage Stores Stores 12.9 14541 26.54 -0.01 26.47 15.75Stein Stein Mart Mart 15.3 8185 18.33 -0.36 venturous women and men, One reason retailers are try- Eagle has done historically.” 15.80 10.31Syms Syms 35.6 339 13.46 -0.19 aged 25 to 40, and focus on ing new concepts now is to re- Analysts said a big positive 35.34 24.20Tal Talbotsbots 13.7 27260 25.30 -0.50 denim and sportswear. John spond to the aging of their cus- for the Martin + Osa brand is 60.00 45.55Tar Targetget 21.5 187770 54.51 -0.13 25.96 19.95TJX TJX Cos. 15.7 132260 20.93 0.23 Morris, an analyst at Harris tomers, said Brill. “That’s been that American Eagle has hired 9.69 3.00United United Retail Retail Group Group - 2187 9.00 0.04 Nesbitt, said there was defi- a problem for a lot of business, an outside management team, 31.77 18.93Urban Urban Outfitters Outfitters 39.0 150430 27.52 -3.92 nitely room in that demograph- especially certain categories. including Ken Pilot as presi- 57.89 42.31W Wal-Martal-Mart 17.7 620402 45.50 -0.22 ic market. He also said it was How do you bring more of your dent, and married couple 7.04 1.35We Wett Seal Seal - 34611 4.95 0.25 7.30 2.44Wilsons Wilsons Leather Leather 1.8 7761 4.99 -0.35 likely that the brand would merchandising acumen and Michele and Charles Martin to 34.42 25.50Zale Zale 12.5 15450 27.10 -0.06 focus on different fabrications knowledge of retailing — and head design. Pilot was formerly VENDORS to set it apart. what the customers are really president of Gap Inc. and the 56.31 41.70Alberto Alberto Culver Culver 18.0 26440 44.40 2.14 45.66 24.63Avon Avon 12.1 221469 27.79 1.16 “It’s an underserved demo- looking for — and bring it to that Martins were executives in 26.76 17.56Benetton Benetton 26.9 413 20.83 0.52 graphic in specialty apparel. customer who is now 10 to 15 merchandising and design at 37.87 27.40Cherokee Cherokee 15.8 1021 33.47 0.53 Clearly, you’ve got a lot of years older? And, obviously, Abercrombie & Fitch. 36.42 22.48Coach Coach 30.6 207414 31.66 -0.60 62.18 41.00Columbia Columbia Sprtswr Sprtswr 12.7 40224 42.07 -2.19 competitors flooding this seg- they are correct that this is an American Eagle expects to 26.50 20.00Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden Arden 15.4 11813 20.95 -0.16 ment now. But they’re all kind area that needs to be exploited.” have some 300 Martin + Osa 47.50 29.98Estée Estee Lauder Lauder 18.6 170956 32.42 -1.34 of in the start-up phase and Yet Holly Guthrie, senior vice stores in the next 10 years and 32.05 14.96Fossil Fossil 11.8 34045 15.35 -0.90 11.89 5.69G-III G-III 30.8 75 10.15 -0.20 they’re all sort of jockeying president at Morgan, Keegan & said sales could eventually top 43.20 32.18IFF IFF 14.8 29054 32.71 -0.39 for position,” Morris said in Co., said the specialty apparel $1 billion. The company has 21.80 12.79Inter Inter Parfums Parfums 19.4 33873 15.29 -1.61 an interview. market catering to shoppers about 850 American Eagle 37.48 26.47Jones Jones Apparel Apparel 11.8 68680 27.17 0.29 36.17 21.94Kellwood Kellwood - 17458 22.09 -1.06 Thomas Filandro, an analyst around 30 years old could al- stores in North America. 35.29 23.81Kenneth Kenneth Cole Cole 13.7 7043 24.49 -2.52 43.82 33.70Liz Liz Claiborne Claiborne 11.5 75607 34.93 -2.44 6.20 2.98Mossimo Mossimo 17.3 662 5.00 0.05 20.38 15.24Movado Movado 15.6 2916 17.34 0.13 WWDStock Market Index 92.43 75.10Nike Nike 16.4 68970 82.80 -0.68 Weekly % Changes Ending Oct. 28 53.49 33.34Oxford Oxford 14.1 15994 48.39 -1.63 16.25 9.52Perfumania Perfumania 7.6 130 11.25 -0.25 26.48 18.20Perry Perry Ellis Ellis 8.4 1855 20.14 -0.67 Composite: Retailers: Vendors: Largest Gainers Largest Losers 35.38 22.46Phillips-Van Phillips-Van Heusen Heusen 14.8 24228 28.10 -1.36 1040.15 1048.56 946.47 53.34 34.19Polo Polo Ralph Ralph Lauren Lauren 21.7 49820 48.61 -3.76 18.12 10.63Quiksilver Quiksilver 13.3 101322 11.13 0.45 Close Change Close Change 57.75 36.37Reebok Reebok 14.3 40950 57.00 -0.42 Goody’s 9.48 7.48 Tarrant 1.56 -23.15 4.29 1.96Revlon Revlon - 18373 2.87 -0.11 21.84 12.31Russell Russell 13.1 23249 13.27 0.30 Retail Ventures 9.99 6.84 Bebe 13.64 -16.11 27.29 15.69Steve Steve Madden Madden 31.6 7691 24.68 -0.31 -11.48 -9.87 -21.95 New York & Co. 12.70 6.72 Urban Outfitters 27.52 -12.47 4.22 0.81Tarr Tarrantant - 17415 1.56 -0.47 Wet Seal 4.95 5.32 True Religion 12.01 -10.37 18.76 8.47To Tommymmy Hilfiger Hilfiger 12.8 25890 14.98 -1.02 18.25 2.82Tr Trueue Religion Religion Apparel Apparel 22.5 22340 12.01 -1.39 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices Alberto Culver 44.40 5.06 Inter Parfums 15.29 -9.53 61.61 50.44VF VF Corp. Corp. 10.7 38233 51.70 -1.95 of Dec. 31, 2002. 25.88 19.23Wa Warnacornaco 17.7 16548 21.55 0.16 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 19 WWD.COM ‘Hit-and-Run’ Sites Prospering With Fakes By Liza Casabona tively new, he said. These Web sites can be bold in their defiance of NEW YORK — The Internet is a transient place, and trademark and copyright laws. The replica watch site crafty counterfeiters are using it to their advantage by mentioned above included a statement in its About Us setting up virtual street markets that bounce from one section advocating against the purchase of genuine Web address to another as they peddle “replica” and watches. The following paragraph is taken verbatim counterfeit luxury goods as well as items that infringe from their Web site: on trademarks. “For whatever reason, many people purchase watches Dubbed by legal sources and luxury goods makers as that cost thousands of dollars and render the wearer li- “hit-and-run” or “whack-a-mole” sites, these online out- able to get their hand chopped off while walking home lets are difficult for luxury goods makers to prosecute from a posh cocktail party,” the site stated. “For everyone because they are tough to track. else, a replica watch is inexpensive and sometimes give For example, one of the sites, which calls itself a the impression that you are wearing the genuine Rolex “replica watch store,” routes visitors through a Geocities while you are catering the posh cocktail party.” site for a split second before landing them on another While most sources familiar with online counterfeiting site that has a constantly changing Web address. The issues said they couldn’t begin to put a dollar estimate on second half of the site’s address switched on each visit the size of the problem because of the difficulty in track- to the site, shifting from “funexpresslane.com” to “party- ing it, all agreed it is substantial. timeforbestmates.com” to “easybusinesssuit.com” on “The Internet is a big deal,” Gursky said. “All of the subsequent visits by WWD. On several visits, the site The home page of the “replica watch store” Web site. companies that are actively counterfeited have some would change within minutes. asked to remain anonymous. The result is Web sites he program that goes after this.” Brands offered on the site include Rolex, Cartier, and his colleagues refer to as “whack-a-mole,” an analo- Tracking down where a site operates from is the trick Bulgari, Frank Muller, Harry Winston, Chopard, Patek gy based on a video arcade game in which players try to to prosecuting online sales of counterfeit or trademark- Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Audemars hit an animal head that pops up and rapidly disappears infringing products, sources said. What allows compa- Piguet, Zenith, Chronoswiss and a number of others. before popping out of a different hole. And as soon as nies to go after the sites is that they all must do business Lawyers who have represented some of the brands men- investigators close in on one of these whack-a-mole from a physical address that can ship goods out and re- tioned on the site in trademark and counterfeit litigation sites, it moves to another Web address. Most of these ceive payment. were unfamiliar with this specific site, but said it resem- sites operate outside the U.S., the source said, which “It’s like playing cat and mouse to figure out who they bled others they had seen, and could likely be run by a further complicates the issue. are and where to serve them with a lawsuit. It feels more party they had encountered previously under a different “Selling [counterfeits] on the Internet has been some- frustrating because in Chinatown or the Garment Center, iteration. Manufacturers did not return requests for what uncharted territory up to now because of the diffi- even though you may feel like you’re making little comment on this story. culty in identifying vendors. That’s why all the attempts progress, at least you’re seeing some tangible results and The tactic of rapidly changing a Web site’s address at legislation that are out there require people to be word is getting out on the street,” said Jane Shay Wald, evolved as manufacturers and law enforcement officials findable,” said Steve Gursky, partner, Dreier LLP. partner, Irell and Manella LLP, and the chair of its trade- improved their skills at tracking down counterfeiters Gursky refers to sites that change their online addresses mark practice group, as well as immediate past president online, said one source familiar with these sites who as “hit-and-run” sites. This particular strategy is rela- of the LA Copyright Society.

Study Indicates Consumers Will Spend Less on Holiday NEW YORK — Consumer sentiment, as tracked by the University of Michigan, plunged in October for the third consec- utive month, dropping to its lowest level in 13 years, and lend- ing credence to industry views that holiday spending will not be as strong as last year. The Index of Consumer Sentiment registered a reading of 74.2 in October, down from a preliminary reading of 75.4 and compared with September’s reading of 76.9 and August’s reading of 89.1. The three-month decline was the second largest on record. Richard Curtin, director of the University of Michigan’s Surveys of Consumers, cited in a press release “the cumulative strain of higher prices on the financial situation of consumers” for the decline in the index. He added, “The current outlook for higher costs of home heating, higher interest rates and falling real incomes will cause cutbacks in consumer spending in the coming months.” Curtin estimated that real consumption spending will in- crease 1 percent in both this year’s fourth quarter and the first quarter 2006. According to the survey results, more than one-third of con- sumers said their finances had worsened in October due to in- flation. “More consumers cited higher prices than any time since 1982, and just as important, the fewest consumers cited income gains in more than a decade,” Curtin said. Consumers surveyed in October were also worried about high home prices as well as how rising gas prices were affecting their vehicle- buying decisions. Job security and future income worries impacted buying plans for home electronics, appliances and furniture, the sur- vey also found. Meanwhile, the Index of Consumer Expectations, a compo- nent of the Index of Leading Economic Indicators, declined slightly to 63.2 in October versus 63.3 in September and 85.5 in August, the University of Michigan said. According to the re- port, the small decline is a “pause” that is “typical of past re- cessionary cycles.” In other words, consumers are gauging the true extent of the economy’s weakness and are determining how they should re- vise their expectations. — M.D. 20 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Shiseido Sets Records for Sales, Earnings in First Half

By Koji Hirano Shiseido’s products were carried in 777 specialty stores at on a conference call. “We are now operating with a new the end of September, a number the company projects to set of macrorealities. At the same time, there are a num- TOKYO — Shiseido Group announced record sales and reach 1,000, by yearend. Sales in Asia and Oceania jumped ber of company-specific issues that are also compound- net profits for the first half, attributing the results to 18.4 percent in local currencies and 19.7 percent on a yen ing our results and these problems are very fixable, but strong marketing and restructuring initiatives. basis to 31.4 billion yen, or $284.5 million. they will take time.” On a consolidated basis, net profits skyrocketed 115.3 Sales in Europe were up 4.1 percent in local curren- Jung said the company’s product pipeline and invest- percent to 10.3 billion yen, or $93.3 mil- cies and 6.2 percent on a yen basis to ments were not strong or deep enough this year to keep lion at average exchange, for the half 37.7 billion yen, or $341.6 million. In up with competitors, but that Avon has long-term struc- ended Sept. 30, compared with the year- BEAUTY BEAT the Americas, including the U.S., tural and process-oriented changes under way to im- ago period. Canada and Brazil, sales increased prove operations. “Despite reporting an extraordinary loss related to 7.2 percent in local currencies and 5.7 percent on a yen By market, the U.S. was Avon’s weakest performer the mandatory introduction of impairment accounting, basis to 22.3 billion yen, or $202 million, compared with this quarter. In the U.S., the company faces decreased interim net income jumped,” the Japanese cosmetics the same period a year earlier. customer purchase frequency and competition from giant stated. other beauty companies as well as the impact of in- Sales were up 4.6 percent to 330.5 billion yen, or $3 bil- creased fuel costs on sales representatives and their lion, over last year. Meanwhile, domestic sales were up 2.5 Avon 3Q Net Beats Estimates customers, the company said. percent and overseas sales, which made up 27.6 percent of NEW YORK — Although Avon Products Inc. reported a 5 Regarding the Chinese market, the company attrib- the total business, grew 10.4 percent. Sales from cosmetics, percent decline in third-quarter earnings per share as it utes a 16 percent decline in revenue to the reduction in which made up 78.8 percent of total sales, increased 4.3 experienced softness in its beauty, skin care and color sales by Beauty Boutique owners concerned with direct percent. Domestic sales of cosmetics rose 1.5 percent. businesses, the company managed to beat analysts’ esti- selling. Though companies such as Avon can apply for As for overseas cosmetics, sales grew 10 percent in mates by six cents. direct-selling licenses beginning Dec. 1, direct selling local currencies and 11.3 percent on a yen-denominated Net income for the quarter ended Sept. 30 dropped may not launch for some time afterward. basis. During the period, Shiseido’s cosmetics business 7.4 percent to $163.8 million, or 35 cents a diluted share, “We’re encouraged that the regulatory framework is benefited from increased sales in all regions, led by from $176.9 million, or 37 cents, in the same period last taking shape and this will provide us with the necessary China. “Sales of our mainstay Shiseido brand were year. Analysts had the company pegged to earn 29 cents. context in order to successfully launch direct selling solid, as were fragrances sold by Beauté Prestige Sales in the quarter fell 4.5 percent to $1.87 billion from and support our Beauty Boutique owners,” said Jung. International S.A., together with non-Shiseido brands, $1.78 billion a year ago. The company forecasts full-year 2005 revenues in- notably Nars and Decléor,” said the group. “Af ter five years of strong market performance, creasing in the low- to midsingle digits, up slightly in Sales in China, including Hong Kong, rose 36 percent in clearly the business dynamic has changed on us dramat- local currencies. local currencies and 33 percent on a yen basis. In China, ically,” said Andrea Jung, Avon’s chief executive officer, — Amy S. Choi Pomellato Blossoms in Milan JANY: Last-Minute Yule Treats By Sophia Chabbott By Alessandra Ilari NEW YORK — Jewelry retailers were concerned, but mostly unfazed, by recent MILAN — With the opening of Pomellato’s remodeled hurricanes and the high price of gold while shopping the JANY Special store here last week, the 38-year-old jewelry firm’s Delivery Show at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center here last week. new retail concept was in full bloom. The second annual cash-and-carry trade show, intended to give retailers That’s because since Pomellato started giving its a chance to load up on last-minute holiday product while giving vendors a stores an updated edge in 2003, the makeover has chance to clear out their inventories, had a slight decrease in attendance and always included pieces by Michael Lin, the Tokyo- exhibitors. The last show recorded 4,700 people and 430 exhibitors, while born artist known for his floral renderings inspired by this year’s edition welcomed 4,500 and 450, respectively. Taiwanese textiles. Drew Lawsky, group show director for the JA shows, described this year’s The 1,080-square-foot store here, though, is the only one event as “OK,” having lost some retailers because of Hurricane Wilma and to house an exclusive, 29-by-23-foot panel painted with a smat- the Jewish holiday of Simchat Torah on Tuesday. Nevertheless, Lawsky said tering of gigantic floral motifs in green, red, orange and fuchsia. the show is relevant. Pomellato’s intent when revamping such key boutiques as those “Retailers are putting off their buying later and later in the year,” Lawsky in Barcelona, Paris and Florence was to do away with the formal and said. “They don’t know what they need until this time of the year. [It’s now intimidating aura when] they get a feel for the year and have more of a that still surrounds many fine jew- snapshot of what their business is going to look like.” elry stores. Many buyers and vendors were pleased with “Jewelry stores are normally the show and said business was up in general. about double-security doors and Joe Carullo, vice president and co-owner ostentatious windows that are of the 20-year-old, New York-based jewelry daunting to the consumer,” said design company KC Designs, said his business Francesco Minoli, Pomellato’s surged 15 percent for the holiday season. chief executive officer. “Our mis- “I see a continuing, steady increase,” Carullo sion is to sell luxury accessories, so said. “I don’t see a big increase, though.” we opted for a more ironic and Styles such as diamond earrings with move- innovative blueprint.” ment were popular among buyers, as were clas- A Mazza He added that when the company sic diamond bangles, he said. KC Designs’ mostly Co. ring. first employed Lin’s floral armchairs white gold and diamond jewelry falls between the in Barcelona two years ago, the suc- $500 and $1,500 price mark. cess was so instant that Lin’s work Angélique de Paris, the Allentown, Pa.-based design became the common denominator company known for its whimsical use of brightly hued resin for other units. combined with gold vermeil or sterling silver, introduced a rubber-based col- Other elements are wenge lection of jewelry and a children’s line at the show. wood, blush-pink paint, one-of-a- “Gold is crazy and diamonds are also crazy right now,” said company kind Jacopo Foggini sculptured designer Angélique Knafo of the prices of precious materials. “People come lamps and bronzed glass. here for that look.” This blueprint will be reflected Lulu Beyda, a Brooklyn-based retailer with an eponymous boutique, said in upcoming Pomellato venues — in there is a dichotomy in her customers’ needs. Dubai, United Arab Emirates, slat- “People want everything to be either very classic, or something totally dif- ed to open in November, followed ferent and out there,” she said. by Madison Avenue in New York, Beyda said she was certain of one thing: “I’m not interested in chande- Berlin and Turin, Italy, in 2006. liers [earrings].” On the product front, Pom- Jamie Camche, co-owner of J.L. Rocks, a jewelry store in Greenwich, ellato’s newest collection is Conn., experienced a lull in September and October because of the persist- Baby, a line of rose-gold rings ent warm weather and the record-breaking hurricane season, but as late as and earrings with amethysts or last week saw sales pick up. She now anticipates a fruitful holiday. quartzes surrounded by brown Camche said white gold and diamond jewelry would be a popular gift cat- diamonds. egory, adding: “Men will continue to buy white gold jewelry for women.” Minoli expects to seal 2005 with She also bought yellow gold, turquoise and cocktail pieces. To compensate consolidated sales of 108 million for the high prices of gold, Camche is cutting her margins slightly, so as not Here, the interior of Pomellato’s new Milan euros, or $130 million at current to charge the consumer more. She added, however, that women will keep on store. Above, Pomellato’s Baby rings. exchange rates, a 10 percent hike buying jewelry. over the previous year. “As long as there are events, women still need a piece of jewelry,” she said. PHOTOGRAPHERS: CENTENO, STEPHEN SULLIVAN, TALAYA TURNER, DAVID KYLE ERICKSEN, TIM JENKINS, PETER STANGLMEYR WWD Next Generation In Depth Issue: November 17 Close: November 1

Where are they shopping? What are they buying? How much will they spend?

Get these answers plus so much more as the editors of WWD bring you an in-depth look at the next generation of consumers that has fashion, beauty and retail executives vying to be part of the “in” crowd.

For more information, contact Ralph Erardy, senior v.p. group publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® 22 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Bloomingdale’s Opens Shop for ‘Rent’ NEW YORK — In the spirit of mixing it all up for an individual style, Bloomingdale’s Polo Ralph Kall Ruttenstein,Ruttenstein, inin white,white, withwith opened a Rent shop on the second floor of its 59th Street flagship last week. Lauren “Rent” cast members, from The 600-square-foot shop draws it’s fashion inspiration from the upcoming movie snorkel left,left, WilsonWilson Heredia,Heredia, TayeTaye DiggsDiggs “Rent,” premiering Nov. 17, and the long-running Broadway show, and pulls together jacket,jacket, FreeFree and Tracie Thoms. styles from various contemporary resources, including Necessary Objects, French PePeoopleple Connection, Vince, Free People, Seven for All Mankind and the store’s Aqua private charmeuse label; about 50 percent of the items are exclusive to the store. Empire dress The Rent look is about the unexpected — outfitting something expensive with and Betsey something inexpensive, something fancy with something casual. “It’s about using vin- Johnson tage pieces with modern pieces and creating your own look,” said Kal Ruttenstein, scarf. Bloomingdale’s senior vice president of fashion direction, at Wednesday’s ribbon-cut- ting for the shop with “Rent” cast members and scores of groupies. Ruttenstein, kind of a “Rent” groupie himself, said he’s seen the Broadway pro- duction 33 times, and that this is actually the store’s second Rent shop. The first was nine years ago when the show opened. The shop takes its cue from the show, Ruttenstein pointed out, which depicts “kids young and poor who put themselves to- gether in unusual combinations of items. It’s a mixture. The first shop was more punk. This is more eclectic.” Bloomingdale’s has a history of creating shops that tie in with theater and movies, including “Moulin Rouge,” “Mamma Mia!,” “Chariots of Fire,” “Saturday Night Fever” and “Out of Africa.” Ruttenstein said he’s been involved in some 40 or 50 shops and window displays that tie in with Broadway and Hollywood. “We try very hard not to do too many. Only when something is really happening.”

— David Moin PHOTOS BY CENTENO TALAYA Southpaw Expands Beyond Vintage By Marc Karimzadeh return for his promise never to enlist. “I was the most manipulative parent,” he said

PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA NEW YORK — Long before vintage became fash- with a smile. ion’s favorite buzzword, Jeffrey Pattie was comb- Pattie called the collection Southpaw Pawe.wa ing the globe for finds for Southpaw, his Garment after the Native American words for “power and District fashion lending library. powwow,” he explained. The label’s tag line states, After some 20 years in the business of taking “He who dreams and derives his power from vi- care of other designers’ clothes from bygone eras, sion,” a sentiment Pattie feels he can relate to. Pattie decided it was finally time to make a col- Key pieces in the collection include smokey lection of his own. For spring, he is launching rainbow print chiffon dresses and satin chameuse Southpaw Pawe.wa, a collection of 54 pieces and romper suits. It also includes silk chiffon shrugs three shoe designs. with wide sleeves and colored brass mesh dresses. “It seemed like a natural progression,” Pattie “I was inspired by rock ’n’ roll from 1973 to the said. After all, over the years he has accumulated Eighties,” Pattie said. “I saw every major band, more vintage dresses, suits, separates and acces- from Led Zeppelin to T.Rex to the New York Dolls. I sories than he cares to remember, ranging from saw the girls and boys who followed them...and my the Civil War period to the 1980s. mind is still stuck on these groupies. It’s a girl who His madcap showroom has become a place doesn’t want to be dictated to.” where fashion stylists look for finds, and many de- Pattie has an extensive list of women and even signers have been known to consult Southpaw’s as- some men as his design inspirations, and he sortment of Madame Grès, Poiret, Vionnet, Chanel, named many of the looks after them. His muses Balenciaga and Christian Dior for their own lines. include Keith Richards’ daughter, Alexandra, Two looks from Pattie also has an extensive selection from Stephen seen here modeling the clothes; Stella Southpaw Pawe.wa, Burrows, including the personal collection of McCartney; Naomi Campbell; Daria Werbowy, modeled by one of the Burrows’ muse, Pat Cleveland, which he acquired and Farah Pigeon, whom he recruited from collection’s muses, five years ago. England to work for him 12 years ago. Alexandra Richards. Pattie’s daughter, Bridget; son, Jeffrey Patrick, Wholesale prices range from $90 to $1,400 and and employees had urged him to start his own Pattie said the line targets upscale specialty line, but he said he needed a final push. When stores. He added that first-year wholesale sales the Marines came knocking at his door to sign up projections are about $1 million. his son one day, Pattie, horrified by the thought, Next up? “For fall, we will start a small collec- promised his son he would start the collection in tion of men’s,” he said.

PEOPLE CHASE: Lori talking about, and maybe even book some speaking Majewski’s overhaul of engagements. (Earlier this month, a Times spokeswoman Teen People technically told The New York Post, “She has few, if any, on the MEMO PAD won’t make its debut calendar at this point.”) until the February issue, Wonkette.com previously guessed that Miller might but when the December/January cover hits newsstands later “get at least $50,000 a pop” for oration, but Wesley Neff this week, don’t expect it to look much like the Teen People — president of the Leigh Bureau, which represents, of recent years. among others, the CBS producer who was fired for her role “Because I came from a weekly, I don’t want to wait [to in Memogate, Mary Mapes — thought that figure a little make changes], and I can’t wait,” said Majewski, who was high. “The types of groups that will be interested in hired from Us Weekly to be managing editor of Teen People [Miller] will be more of the town hall, educational in August, with the goal of bringing the magazine back to its forums,” he said. “Corporate clients don’t want anything roots and realigning it with the People mother ship. too political or partisan.” (“People is having its best year in 12 years,” she said. “Why And how will the indictment of Irve Lewis “Scooter” Libby wouldn’t we want to follow that?”) and the ongoing investigation of Karl Rove — not to mention The new Teen People cover features fewer cover lines, no After and before: Majewski’s first Teen People cover and an Miller’s own turmoil at the Times — affect her appeal? Neff more neon and, for the first time posing together for a older cover of Teen People. said controversy was a good thing, at least in this instance. magazine (according to a Teen People spokeswoman), “The ripple effect could be a higher price for her as a Ashlee and Jessica Simpson. therapist and talks about her marriage and a recent run-in with speaker,” he said. “It had gotten to the point where the photos were covering the paparazzi. And, in a sign of what to expect come February, What is Mapes commanding these days, 10 months after up the logo,” Majewski said of returning the Teen People logo there’s amped-up fashion and beauty coverage. — Sara James she was fired from “60 Minutes”? “It’s too early to say to the foreground. “It was like, ‘What magazine is this?’ You where the market’s going to be for her,” he said. “A lot of know how they tell you not to wear too much eye makeup with MILLER’S NEXT CHAPTER: Judith Miller’s career at The New it’s going to be driven by the sales of her book [“Truth and a lot of lipstick? There was too much going on.” York Times is likely fait accompli, but on the upside, Duty: The Press, the President, and the Privilege of Power,” Inside the issue, Jessica reveals she’s been seeing a she’ll have more time to write that memoir she keeps which St. Martin’s Press is releasing on Nov. 8].” — S.J. LIMITED WWD DNR AVAILABILITY CEOSUMMIT Nov. 2–4, 2005, The Ritz-Carlton Battery Park, New York

A peer-to-peer meeting for CEOs managing the challenge of change Including:

Vera Wang Robert Polet Myron E. Ullman III Eric C. Wiseman Vera Wang Bridal House Ltd. Gucci Group NV J.C. Penney Company Inc. VF Corp.

Claudio Del Vecchio Mindy Grossman David Lauren Matteo Marzotto Retatailil Brand Alliance Inc. Nike Inc. Polo Ralph Lauren Valentino SpA

Nicolas Ghesquière Gregory Scott Ronald B. Johnson Marjorie Yang Balenciaga SA bebe stores inc. Apple Retail Esquel Group

Also including: Terri L. Kelly, W.L. Gore & Associates, Inc.; Kevin Roberts, Saatchi & Saatchi; Susan Lyne, Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia Inc.; David M. Spooner, Office of the United States Trade Representative; Gary Hawkins, Green Hills; Philip Bleser, JP Morgan Chase; Jim Neal, Kurt Salmon Associates; James M. Citrin, Spencer Stuart; Scott Friend, Oracle Retail and Bruce Mosler, Cushman & Wakefield Inc.

WWD|DNR Retail|Apparel CEO Summit THE CHALLENGE OF CHANGE For information: 212.630.4779 or [email protected]

Sponsored by: 24 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 WWD.COM Bertelli Sees Prada Sales at $1.8B by 2010 Continued from page one labels such as Azzedine Alaïa and Car Shoe. Meanwhile, Prada has formed a new company called Prada SpA Group that excludes money-losing businesses Jil Sander, Helmut Lang and a minority interest in Church’s. These operations now fall under the jurisdic- tion of other group holding companies. Prada has isolated “nonstrategic brands [Jil Sander and Helmut Lang] from the core group with a view to their subsequent disposal,” the document states, adding that Prada’s shareholders are assessing “nonbinding of- fers for Jil Sander and Helmut Lang brands from vari- ous industrial partners and private equity funds.” However, company sources downplayed any immi- nent sale of Jil Sander. Prada wants to relaunch the brand under the new design leadership of Raf Simons, whose first collections will bow for fall 2006. When asked for further comment on Prada’s restruc- turing efforts, chief executive officer Patrizio Bertelli said the following regarding Jil Sander: “The restruc- turing plan is on course to make the company profitable on an operational basis as early as next year.” Bertelli was just as bullish about Prada’s overall fu- ture prospects, particularly the spring collections shown in Milan last month. “The Prada and Miu Miu collections were met with overwhelming praise both by the press and the trade. This praise is reflected in the strong orders we have re- ceived thus far this year,” the executive said. “It is proof that our efforts on product design and development, production efficiency, effectiveness of the distribution and communications are going in the right direction.” Patrizio Bertelli has been pleased by Prada’s spring 2006 collection. Here, two looks from the runway. In typical Italian fashion, a cascading chain of com- panies control the business. The Prada family and Bertelli hold their stakes through ITMD Investments BV, which in turn owns 100 percent of Prada Holding NV. The Prada and Miu Miu collections were met with overwhelming Prada Holding controls, either directly or indirectly, all “ the brands and business units, meaning Jil Sander, praise both by the press and the trade. This praise is reflected Helmut Lang, Prada SpA Group and the minority stake in the strong orders we have received thus far this year. in Church’s. The document forecasts that Prada SpA Group will — Patrizio” Bertelli, Prada see its 2005 sales grow 6.9 percent to 1.29 billion euros, or $1.57 billion, and post a net profit of 51.7 million businesses that are profitable,” he said, adding that im- euros, or $42.6 million, on a series of real estate transac- euros, or $62.8 million, the document states. proving market conditions overall might make it easier tions in 2004, including the sale of the Aoyama epicen- “We have posted strong results for the first six for Prada to sell off Helmut Lang and Jil Sander. ter store in Japan and retail properties in New York, months of 2005,” said Bertelli. “With sales, margins and The report states that proceeds from any eventual sale Chicago and Los Angeles and offices in Milan. overall profitability on the rise, I am confident this year of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander or the minority holding in Prada’s corporate restructuring also redistributes will be positive for Prada as our priority remains in- Church’s would help pay back group loans. The Church’s the group’s debts at various levels of the company. creasing efficiency in all parts of the value chain. stake generated 2.9 million euros, or $3.5 million in loss- Prada declined to disclose a global debt figure en- “Looking back, I believe that 2004 can be character- es for Prada in 2004. Still, it looks like the group’s focus compassing all levels of the company, but it appears that ized as a transition year for the group,” he said refer- right now is growing margins at the healthier parts of the most of the debt is concentrated at the Prada SpA encing Prada Holding’s 2004 net loss of 61.96 million company, namely the Prada and Miu Miu brands. Group subsidiary and at parent ITMD Investments. euros, or $75.2 million. Prada has been busy reorganizing its production lo- Prada SpA Group’s debts came to 818 million euros, Prada’s banking document released first-half 2005 gistics to maximize efficiencies. After years of extensive or $993 million, at the end of January, including 420 figures, as published in WWD last month. Prada SpA retail expansion, it’s also looking to boost sales at exist- million euros, or $509.8 million, owed to holding com- Group’s earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation ing stores. At the end of January, Prada SpA Group panies elsewhere in the Prada structure. The compa- and amortization jumped 23.3 percent to 97 million owned 180 directly operated stores and sales there ac- ny’s net bank debt is seen dropping over the next five euros, or $117.8 million, for the six months ended July counted for 54 percent of the company’s revenue. years until the company reverses into a positive cash 31. Sales advanced 5.6 percent to 659.2 million euros, or The company is also focusing on Asia for growth. position in 2010. $800.2 million. Net bank debt totaled 605 million euros, Japan accounted for 15 percent of 2004 sales, while the Meanwhile, ITMD Investments owes a group of banks or $734.4 million. That figure is set to drop to 549.6 mil- rest of Asia accounted for 13 percent. This year Prada 800 million euros, or $971.1 million. The five-year loan lion euros, or $667.2 million, by the end of next January. opened in Osaka, the latest example of a retail push agreement was inked in June, when ITMD had to reim- Undoubtedly, the reorganization creates a more at- there. It also opened in Seoul, where a second store is burse a large bond issue. Those bonds, issued in 2001, tractive set of accounts for Prada to present to the fi- slated to open in the coming months. could have been converted into shares had Prada fol- nancial community. Armando Branchini, chairman of While Prada works to grow its margins and prioritize lowed through on a planned stock market listing. Prada luxury brands consultancy Intercorporate, said the re- its brand portfolio, it’s also trying to chip away at the has postponed going public four times but Bertelli said organization is logical. “They want to make it clear what debts it amassed through a series of acquisitions. To the company will start to reconsider the stock exchange are the businesses that have problems and what are the that end, Prada booked a gain of about 35.1 million at the end of next year. The Where can you reach the largest concentration of women shoppers in the U.S. ? WWD AUSTIN-SAN MARCOS, TX RALEIGH-DURHAM-CHAPEL HILL, NC ATLANTA, GA ANN ARBOR, MI Bookof 1234 Lists You’ll find this complete list and many more in the 4th annual WWD Book of Lists. DON’T MISS IT. Issue Date: December 12 Close: November 7 To advertise, call Ralph Erardy, senior v.p., group publisher at 212-630-4589. To order extra copies, call 212-630-4589. WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 25 WWD.COM U.S. Gives Thumbs Down Russell Net Drops 41.5% in Quarter By Melanie Kletter Miss., Russell’s primary port of entry for To EU’s Agriculture Plan finished goods and for shipment of fabric NEW YORK — Russell Corp. was hit by and products assembled in its operations By Evan Clark understand that this offer is condi- higher costs and operational problems in in Central America and the Caribbean, suf- tional on immediate movement in ne- the third quarter, partly because of Hur- fered heavy damage. WASHINGTON — The European gotiations on trade in industrial goods ricanes Katrina and Rita. “We are rapidly returning to normal effi- Union presented a plan to reduce its and services, as well as in other areas The athletic apparel firm reported a ciencies with most of our operational prob- agricultural tariffs, but the top U.S. of the agricultural negotiation,” said decline in earnings of 41.5 percent to $15.8 lems behind us,” Ward said. “Our shipping trade official said it was not enough to Mandelson. “These areas are impor- million, or 47 cents a share, from $26.9 mil- is returning to a more regular situation.” reenergize the World Trade Organiza- tant to Europe and to developing lion, or 82 cents, a year earlier. Nonetheless, he said the company was tion’s Doha trade talks. countries, and provide the only route Sales edged up less than 1 percent to not able to complete retail orders and is “We are a little discouraged today to a balanced Doha outcome.” $424.6 million, with much of that increase meeting with insurance carriers to cover by the EU proposal,” U.S. Trade Rep- Trade officials are readying them- coming from acquisitions, the company some of those losses. The company also resentative Rob Portman said on a selves for a December ministerial said. Russell has been on a buying spree lost a major boys’ fleece program at Wal- conference call with reporters on meeting in Hong Kong, where they in recent years and now owns Spalding, Mart and had costs related to the elimina- Friday. “It is a modest step in the right will try to lay the groundwork to com- Moving Comfort, Huffy and Brooks Run- tion of its chief operating officer’s posi- direction, but I just believe it’s inade- plete the talks by the end of 2006. ning, in addition to its core Russell, Jer- tion. In addition, Russell said it faced a quate to meet the promise of Doha.” Past ministerials, in Cancún, Mexico zees and Mossy Oak brands. sharp increase in polyester prices. Poly- The deadlock over agriculture has and Seattle, were unsuccessful, par- The earnings results were in line with ester staple prices were 82 cents a lb. on held up other areas of the talks, which tially because trade representatives the company’s revised earnings forecast in Oct. 24, up from 69 cents on Sept. 26. seek to ease trade barriers on industri- failed to lay the proper groundwork September. Russell’s shares closed up 71 On a positive note, the Atlanta-based al goods, such as apparel, and services. going into the meetings. cents to $13.13 Thursday on the New York company saw strong sales of performance The EU proposed to cut its average “We need to intensify these efforts, Stock Exchange. apparel in its core Russell brand and in its agricultural tariffs 35 to 60 percent, not just in agriculture,” said Portman. “Not only did Katrina and eventually Rita Brooks Running business, which Ward with an average of 46 percent. Using a “Both the developed world and the de- impact our businesses with additional di- said “continues to meet or exceed every different formula, Portman said the av- veloping countries share the responsi- rect expenses, [but] the biggest impact in the expectation we had when we made the ac- erage cut was actually 39 percent, less bility to step forward in all of these quarter came from disruptions to our sup- quisition 10 months ago.” than recent proposals from the U.S. areas. We will not quit. We will not give ply chain and the resulting expenses asso- Russell reaffirmed its earnings projec- and the Brazilian-led G20 countries. up. The United States is convinced ciated with expediting customer orders and tions for the full fiscal year. It expects to In a statement, EU Trade Commis- that a successful Doha Round is criti- stockkeeping-unit balancing,” Bob Koney, achieve earnings of between $1.25 and $1.26 sioner Peter Mandelson maintained cal to economic growth globally.” senior vice president and chief financial of- a share, and sales of about $1.45 billion. the offer was “substantial” and Portman said there might be a ficer, said in a call with analysts Thursday. For the nine months, earnings dropped opened up the markets in the 25-na- teleconference this week among Chief executive officer Jack Ward said 40 percent to $22.6 million, or 68 cents, from tion bloc to international producers. some of the key players in the talks to 40 containers of “critical product” were $37.6 million, or $1.15. Sales edged up 12 “Europe’s major partners need to try to narrow the differences. lost or damaged. The port of Gulfport, percent to $1.08 billion from $964.2 million. 26 WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005

Designer - JEWELRY FREELANCE / FULL-TIME Well est’d., upscale fashion Jewelry Co. seeks creative & exp’d. Jewelry Designer to join our team. Must possess a strong sense of color, & have the ability to spot & translate trends. Exp working with semi-precious stones/crystals necessary. Portfolio req’d. Salary commensurate w/experience. E-mail resume in confi- dence to: [email protected]

39 Spring Street - SOHO 1,500 sq. ft. - Retail Space Dumann Realty (212) 505-6300 www.dumann.com

For Space in Garment Center Helmsley-Spear, Inc. 212-880-0414

Search For Space In Garment Center Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee www.midcomre.com Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 DESIGNER ASSISTANT Design SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA Forecast Analyst BANKABLE EMPLOYEES Girls 2-16 import sportswear co seeks organized & detail oriented team player Better Women’s Sportswear Tumi, Inc. seeks a Forecast Analyst for Showrooms & Lofts who want to be their own boss Seeking 1 DESIGNER & 1 ASSISTANT our corporate headquarters in South BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS with min 2 years exp. Responsibili ties If you have been working for a company include detail flat sketching, creating DESIGNER for updated contemporary Plainfield, NJ. This position is respon- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail making them money with your contacts line. Need an eye for trend colors, prints, sible for forecasting at channel levels ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 production packages for o/seas ftys, and would like to have equity in your artwork & presentation boards. Mac CS and treatment. Requirements; 3-5 years for product lines and sku’s. You will own business, this opportunity is for req. Fax res w/sal req. 212-695-7549 experience; Organizational skills, Time partner with channel managers to you! I have up to seven figures of in- Infant/Children’s Clothing management, CAD and Illustrator knowl- maximize sales while achieving opti- vestment capital lined up for qualified Est’d. Retail Store - 2 locations in North edge a must; knowledge of knits a plus. mum inventory levels. Responsibili- candidates. Please email your resume NJ. $2M gross sales/year. Private label Designer Travel to Bali required several times a ties include preparing reports, validat- and industry background to: business. Strong corporate gift division. year. E-mail resume w/dates of employ- ing data in Demand Solutions, and [email protected] Website e-commerce ready, completely Associate Designer ment to: [email protected] communicating new and discontinued along with dollar volume you generate, computerized. Ready for expansion - Major apparel company seeks Associate products and assortment planning. or could generate if you had the start- turnkey operation. For info, E-mail to: Designer with min. 3 years experience Must have 3-5 years of forecasting up capital to be on your own. [email protected] in infant/toddler girls. Individual should experience in the luggage/handbags/ be able to work within design room/ accessories industry, and familiarity sample room environment. Must have with Demand Solutions and SAP. knowledge Illustrator and Photoshop. Fax resume 212-239-2766 Please email resume to: Design [email protected] Textile Designer or fax to: (908) 756-8590 DESIGNER Leading Mfr. of high-end home textiles TUMI, Inc. Est’d NYC contemporary sportswear co seeks an SR-CAD designer. The ideal applicant should be energetic, creative, We welcome diversity. seeks a creative, detail oriented indiv www.tumi.com w/ min 3 yrs exp. Sketching, Shopping. highly organized self-starter with at least Salary open. Fax resume: 212-695-8958 4 years of solid industry experience. Responsibilities include: developing orig- Graphic Designers to $70K current exp Accountant-Controller to $80K. Current in Infant to 4-6X or 7-16 tweens. Illus- exp in domestic manufacturing of Bookkeeper/ inal designs from concept to finished product, preparing instructions for trator, Photoshop on MAC. Full-time apparel req’d. Some costing. Will relocate Designer perm. position only. Call 973-564-9236 to northeast PA area. Call 973-564-9236 Office Manager production and creating spec sheets, Mulit-line shrm seeks motivated team corresponding with overseas agents player, multi-tasker w/ exp. in customer Great Opportunities and makers, and reviewing strike-offs. GRAPHICS service proficient in excel, QuickBooks, •Inf/Tod Girls Assoc Designer Experience in branding and licensing CHARACTER ARTIST Established Garment Manufacturer bank reconciliation, payroll, invoicing, •Inf/Tod Boys Assoc Designer preferred. Candidate should possess Admin Since 1967 billing, collections, A/R, A/P, commission Major childrenswear company 5 yr with prime BROADWAY showroom Well est’d apparel Mfr. seeks Designers strong print, woven and fabrication childrens exp w/licensing space and design facilities and statements. 3-5 years experience w/3 year minimum full time experience, knowledge and be able to research design W-I-N-S-T-O-N Fax resume to: (212) 382-1021 E-mail: [email protected] excess capacity will share with a Excellent Illustrator skills. Positive and color trends and translate them to KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS compatible fit. APPAREL STAFFING Email: [email protected] attitude, team player & well organized. tabletop. Strong communication skills, Fax to: (212)-268-6838 DESIGN * SALES * MERCH Work in a fast paced environment with presentation skills, & work with buyers. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION CAD DESIGNER excellent oppty’s for growth. Please advise salary requirements with Showrooms - 5th Ave + Soho to 57th St. resume. Faxc Attn: Fran: 212-696-0566 Handbag Designer (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 M. Hidary and Company is seeking a Fax Resume to 212-971-2277 Work w/winners in fantastic office. No Hot Lofts - Wood Fl. + Light CAD Designer for their Boys/Men’s Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 travel nec. Must know handbag con- Outerwear department. Outerwear exp. struction, clear comm., hand sketching O.K. Search- www.manhattanoffices.com preferred but not required. Knowledge DESIGNER HEAD/to $150k LEATHER HANDBAGS E-mail: [email protected] of Freehand, Photo Shop and Excel. Fax: 212. 564. 2882 Attn: Maggie Apparel Staffing, LTD Please fax/email resume to: 212-629-8692 Great oppty to design better bags for Designer - Wm’s Casual Weekend Wear [email protected] NYC licensee of Oscar de La Renta, Designer - Exp. w/Women’s Sweaters leather bags for Dept Store mkt. Req: CAD designer to $70K min 3 yrs exp. Exp’d Head Handbag Designer W/ EDI Production Assistant Lectra Systems Operator Production Mgr. - Children’s WR Bilingual Leading Home Textile firm in Soho is Studio Manager - Mjr. Print Converter Proficiency on U4ia, Illust, Photoshop BETTER Leather handbag expr, Asian Brooklyn based Budget Knit Sportswear req’d. Womens or mens apparel exp travel expr., knowl of Illustrator. looking for exceptionally organized & Co. has position with an excellent salary Call Alan Wolf meticulous indiv. to support Sr. Product Phone (212)302-0216 Fax (212)302-1161 O.K. Midtown Co. Call 973-564-9236 E-mail resume: [email protected] & benefits package for a Marking and Fax: 917-591-2521 Tel: 914-337-3660 Mgr. with issuing PO’s & coordinating Grading professional w/minimum 5 years product develop issues with overseas experience. Fax resume: 718-965-5048 CAD Design MGR $100-120K. Current factories through EDI systems. Strong exp. in surface design. Prints & yarn working knowledge of retail EDI systems Assistant Designer dyes. Follow-up on strike-offs. Supervise DESIGNER (GXS & ecVision) is req’d. Candidate Merchandiser/Designer Major apparel company seeks Assistant 2 in womenswear Co. U4ia, Illustrator, must have extensive exp. with document Lunaire, a leader in full-figure bras Photoshop req’d. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Hi-End Fashion Co. seeks creative Designer with experience in boys/ Designer. Min. 4 yrs. exp. in designing types 816, 850, 856, 810, 864, 860, 997 & seeks mid-level creative talent w strong young men’s line to handle tech packs. collection, with strong Technical and UCC label 128. Candidate needs to be a sense of style & passion for bras. PATTERN/SAMPLES Must have knowledge of Illustrator DESIGN ASSISTANT Organization skills. Fax resume w/c strong self motivator & able to work Fax resume to 212-725-0089 or and Photoshop. letter 212-398-9695. under pressure to meet deadlines. Pro- Email [email protected] Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Please Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Fast growing Newborn/Infant co. seeks ficiency in all MS Office applications work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 a well organized and highly motivated a must. Min. 2 yrs. related EDI exp!! MERCHANDISER/PLANNER ..70-85K team player with a good color sense. Current or recent working exp. with Bed Asst to Sales Exec. Responsibilities include: tech/ produc- Manage Programs work w/ production Growing acces. mftr. seeks organized, DESIGNER Bath Beyond & bilingual Mandarin is a Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, tion packages, sample request forms, major ++! Immediate Start. Excellent detail person in fast pace envrnt.. Must details on artwork and designs, specs, Junior/Young Contemporary Mfr. "Tulle" [email protected] be prof. in Outlook, Word & Excel. Will is seeking a motivated, experienced growth oppty in a great working envi- PRODUCTIONS color cards and showroom display. ronment. Salary commensurate with All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. be in constant contact w/ customers. Must be proficient in Illustrator. Designer. Fax resume to: 310-327-7838 PATTERNMAKER Exp. in comm. w/ Asia. Handbag exp. a +. exp. & including full benefits. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Fax resume to: 212-279-0131 Pls. DO NOT respond unless you have Leading Sportswear Mfr. seeks a first E-mail: [email protected] EDI knowledge & exp. Send resume to: patternmaker to work directly with de- Fax: 212. 564. 2882 Attn: Joyce Designer to $70K Current exp in DESIGN ASSOCIATE Kids outerwear req’d. Illustrator, [email protected] signers developing styles. Must under- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Photoshop on MAC. Midtown Co. stand specs and have some computer knowledge. Nice working environment! PRODUCTIONS Bookkeeper HANDBAGS Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency Expanding HANDBAG co. seeks creative, Good benefits! Please fax resumes to: Full service shop to the trade. (212) 730-8994 Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Assistant Bookkeeper self-motivated design assoc. w/ min 2 Fast-growing Women’s Importer seeks years exp. Must have knowl. of an P/T (2-3 days/wk.) individual to code Photoshop/Illustrator with excellent DESIGNER Patternmaker to $80K current exp in & enter A/P invoices, print checks, file, ability to hand sketch. Sample process URBAN FREELANCE DESIGNER Factory MGR to $100K Current exp lined and unlined womens jackets. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD and perform other sundry duties. Exp. from concept to production specs a managing factory of men’s or women’s Strong in micro-dynamics or Gerber, High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- w/bank & factor reconciliation helpful. must. Room to grow. Email resumes to: Fax resume: 407-850-5585 woven shirts/ blouses. Supv. 250 in N. or Lectra computer patterns. Long sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Fax resume to: 212-768-8811 [email protected] E. PA area. Will relo. Call 973-564-9236 Island city loc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy WWD, MONDAY, OCTOBER 31, 2005 27

SALES/NEW BUSINESS Fabulous Oppty! DEVELOPMENT PRODUCTION Fast growing, Italian leather Handbag Est’d Better Men’s sportswear co. seeks Co, which is selling very successfully person who can sell & secure business COORDINATOR in Europe, Japan, Korea & Russia is in Corporations and Clubs. Must have Major women’s sportswear now introducing the line in the US. Established contacts in the corporate A global manufacturer of fashion accessories, legwear, Accessories Sales Rep Seeking aggressive, driven sales pros area. Email resume to: co. based in N.Y. seeks a who have well-established relation- footwear, rainwear, sleepwear, home fashion and novelty We are; an est’d casual/ [email protected] detailed, organized, highly ships w/ better specialty stores & bou- Or fax to: 516-621-0035 Attn: Phil gifts has career opportunities available dressy headwear group tiques. Territories available are South- motivated person with west, Midwest, Southeast & West •Graphic Artists Fashion, novelty product, packaging design. knowledge of all aspects of with current Dept. store Coast. For immediate consideration, MAC, Illustrator & Photoshop skills production, including gar- call 508-685-9663 to set up appt to see Sales Rep •Product Development Mgrs Work w/design & sales with accts. Young Aggressive our line in NY showroom on Nov 8 & ment construction, spec, fit, Management! You are; able 9th or pls send resume: 508-520-9171 Seeking responsible, energetic candidate. understanding of production, spec/tech. Experience domestic pattern, accessories, lab or e-mail [email protected] w/min. 2 years exp. in textile surface & overseas, conception thru delivery dips, various fabrics, care la- /familiar with developing design studio. Fax resume: 212-714-9242 •Production Mgrs Work with overseas factories, sourcing, bel, daily fax/e-mail commu- chain/ dept. store business. FASHION JEWELRY understanding of imports. Detail oriented, good w/product nications with overseas, SELF MOTIVATED! High-end fashion jewelry co seeks & numbers. motivated and enthusiastic Account Sales / Sales Assistant good computer knowledge, Please fax resume to: Executives with 3-5 years sales exp to Watch mfr seeks salesperson w/ exp in •Sales Execs Exp with following in dept., specialty stores, generate and manage specialty store the field to assist VP Sales. Candidate strong follow-up skills. Must (516) 256-0425 mass market be willing to travel to Boston and private label accounts. Must have must be detail oriented w/ excellent or Call: (516) 256-0420 excellent customer service and thrive communication & follow up skills. •Sales/Development/Production/Admin Assistant Good often. Min 3 years of in an entrepreneurial environment. Accessory exp a must. Proficient in communication follow-up, organizational, computer, admin experience required. Hiring in NYC and L.A. E-mail Excel & MS Word. Email resume to: skills, detail- oriented, good w/ numbers. resumes: [email protected] [email protected] •Receptionist Entry level for front desk at our prestigious shwrm. Excellent Salary and Sales Executive Email or fax resumes w/sal.req. Benefits Large Handbag & Backpack co. Email: [email protected] F: 212-202-4837 seeks experienced Sales Exec. Growing NY based Co. Fax resume HR: Seeking exp’d. Sales Professionals for Min. 5-7 years experience. the greater tri-state area. Candidates PRODUCT DEVLOPMENT TO 85K 212-827-0897 Large major accounts available. must have knowledge and contacts Home fashions bilingual Chinese A + Sales Assistant - Gifts High pay and great benefits! within the Women’s & Young Men’s Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Fast-paced Gift & Games Mfr. seeks Fax resumes to: 212-695-7073 markets, as well as the ability to develop [email protected] multi-tasking individual to perform order new business. Fax/E-mail resumes to HR: follow-up, maintain showroom, & update Textile Print Designer 212-693-1601 / [email protected] catalogs. Strong computer skills neces- Russell Newman in Denton, TX seeks Production sary, especially Excel. Exp. working w/ Textile Print Designer w/ BA in Fashion Accessory co. seeks prod’n person. specialty stores & major chains preferred. Design & 6 months exp. in creating Immediate Opportunities org’d & detail oriented. Comm w/ E-mail resume & salary requirements artwork for print on fabrics using U4ia, •Sales Executive overseas factories. Strong comp skill s to: mjtomas [email protected] TexDesign & Adobe Illustrator. Pls. Photoshop & Illustrator A+. Mandarin fax resume & salary req’s to: •EDI Replenishment Specialist Chemin de Fer (940) 382-6453, Attn. Lee a must. Resume: [email protected] ASSOCIATE DESIGNER •Designer This 1970’s jeans brand is back in the SALES ASSOCIATE LOS ANGELES BASED POSITION Fashion jeanswear company seeks the premium denim market. New York plus Production Coordinator Women’s Luxury Accessories right team-players to join our fast select, exclusive territories open. Dept/Specialty Store Following Seeking an Associate Designer w/ 2-4 growing company. Please submit your Get on the train early. Fax: 213.683.0556 Leading women’s sportswear co seeks yrs. exp. for LA based high-end denim cover letter and resume in confidence Prod Coord w/ min 4 yrs exp who is de- [email protected] We are growing! company. Responsible for design / line Fax to: (212)221-3481 or Email: tailed oriented & extremely organized. development and awareness of fashion [email protected] Must be team player able to multi-task GURHAN, a successful Luxury Designer trends for all global markets. Will work CONTEMPORARY SWIMWEAR in an upbeat/fast tempo environment. Jewelry Wholesale Co., has positions directly with the head designer in de- Est’d South American Swimwear line SALES MANAGER In-house Salesperson seeks representation in U.S. in all Excel, Word, Photoshop, Illustrator, CYNTHIA ROSE NEW YORK opening at both Junior & Senior levels: signing and overseeing the execution Outlook a must. Daily follow up for •SALES of the line from concept to finished & Showroom Assistant Regional Markets. N.Y. City showroom Unique luxury collection seeks a and distribution. Must have strong trims & samples. Liaison w/production seasoned sales professional with well •CUSTOMER SUPPORT product. Ideal candidate has strong Well-established Jewelry & Accessories & design depts. Bilingual in English •OPERATIONS background knowledge of washes and Company seeks experienced indivs. knowledge and experience in the established contacts at both national swimwear industry and relationships and Chinese. Fax resume: 212-764-1362 and international designer and specialty •PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT construction of denim and knits, as well Fax resume w/ salary requirements to If you have experience in the luxury as leadership skills in fast paced envi- 212-481-8238, Email: [email protected] with Department/Specialty stores. stores. Candidate must be very organ- Email: [email protected] Production/Product Managers ized and self-motivated. Designer has wholesale industry, a drive to succeed, ronment. Must be willing to relocate to been featured in Elle, InStyle, and and the desire to build a career, E-mail Los Angeles. •Large accessory company seeks your resume, indicating your area of coordinator for license. $$$ Vogue. Please fax resume to (212) 221-7211 or interest, in MS Word: [email protected] Please send resume with SALES •Stationery dept. Lg co seeks product mgr salary expectations to: Rep Designer Line email to [email protected] Accessory co. looking for motivated NYC Designer, seeks independent NYC to oversee every aspect of division. $$$ [email protected] indiv. w/ strong relationships in [email protected] or Fax: (310) 945-5253 based Sales Rep for Specialty Stores / Specialty & Discount chains. Boutiques. Experience, self-motivation Resume: [email protected] Production Sourcing MGR $120-150K Technical Design Director: Rev design & key contacts a must. Please send Current exp in girls infant to 16 knits specs prior to prod & eval reqs. Over- Ass’t To National Sales Mgr resume: [email protected] and wovens. Strong relationships with see coord of design improvmts Luxury Men’s sportswear co seeks Or fax to: 212-947-7858 factories WW that produces kidswear. w/manuf to maximze cost efficy & qual individual to assist the Sales Manager. Sales Executive www.sena-collection.com Strong in sourcing, follow-up, admin. contrl. Use s/w such as: Photoshop, Must be proficient in Excel, Word, Out- Italian Multi-National Firm Technical knowledge of construction Illus, & Autocad. Req: MS in any De- look & have excellent communication Based in our NYC office/showroom, of garments. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY sign major & 2 yrs of exp in job’ffd. skills. 1-3 yrs related sales exp. rq’d. this sales manager will be responsible Res: Mr. Choi, New Generations, 150 Department store sales a plus! Email for all NYC retail channels with a focus Grand St, Carlstadt, NJ, 07072 resume to: [email protected] on department and specialty stores. Or fax to: 516-621-0035 Attn: Bob FEDON is an 85 yr old Italian multi- RECEPTIONIST/ASST national accessories manufacturer Seeking highly motivated individuals aggressively pursuing growth in the to perform clerical duties, answer the TECHNICAL DESIGNER US. Salary + commission + benefits. phones & help w/ samples in a fun, Leading Woman’s Apparel Co seeks EXCELLENT SALES Very high energy, attention to detail, high energy showroom. Some reception Technical Designer for upscale sports- forthright honesty, and knowledge of exp. necessary Applicant must be wear line. Min 5 years exp with knowl- OPPORTUNITIES NYC players req’d. Fax: 212-683-6242 organized, energetic, & enthusiastic. edge of Illustrator / Photoshop; Fabria A well recognized, rapid growing, young or E-mail: [email protected] Please fax 212-944-1640 or e-mail to a plus. Must have strong technical contemporary / contemporary denim [email protected] background in woven knits / sweaters, collection is seeking Account Executives Sales Key Acct Exec $125-$150K +++ and conduct live model fitting. Must for the Northeast and Mid-Atlantic Current exp in kidswear or kids outer- GARMENT CONSTRUCTION & be detail oriented and have excellent regions. Strong relationships w/upscale wear to dept or mid tier stores or chain RETAIL FASHION PATTERNMAKING communication skills. Desirable specialty store retailers are required. or specialty stores OK. Branded or Strong 12 years exp. (mostly bottoms) Showroom Mgr/Hi-Fashion $80K atmosphere & environment to work. Candidates should be highly motivated, private label or licencees OK. Well estb Store Mgrs/NYC & Westchester/French $70K Seeking serious F/T opportunity. Great benefits package. Please fax analytical, detail oriented, and willing Co. expanding expotentially. Call 973 - Call: 718-769-5929 Sales Associates/Madison Av $35K+% resume to HR Manager 212-354-3051. to travel. Fax resume to: 212-395-9740 564-9276 Jaral Fashion Agency. FAX: 212-481-4086 [email protected]