Summer 2014 sizzleThe American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking Balsamic Eggs From foreign cinema

Investigate a explore the food-truck must-have cuisine of career snacks menu trend sizzle features The American Culinary Federation NExt Quarterly for Students of Cooking 16 Best Career-beginning Publisher issue American Culinary Federation, Inc. Advice • Donate some time to accelerate learning. Editor-in-Chief Successful industry veterans share their insights as they • Follow the sweet-plus-heat Jody Shee look back on the important early career decisions they flavor trend. made that helped them to succeed. • Consider a sports-team- Senior Editor chef career. Kay Orde 22 Snack Trends Associate Editor Nearly everyone snacks, and most people do so two or Jessica Ward three times a day. Savvy foodservice operators know how to turn Graphic Designer that habit to their advantage by offering the items consumers crave. David Ristau 28 Food Trucks are an Emerging Career Director of Communications Patricia A. Carroll Discover what it takes to start and run a food truck, and why the career isn’t for the faint of heart. Contributing Editors Rob Benes Suzanne Hall Ethel Hammer

Direct all editorial, advertising departments 16 22 28 and subscription inquiries to: American Culinary Federation, Inc. 4 President’s Message 180 Center Place Way St. Augustine, FL 32095 ACF president Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, tells new graduates how to set the (800) 624-9458 stage for their careers. [email protected] 6 Amuse-Bouche Subscribe to Sizzle: www.acfchefs.org/sizzle Student news, opportunities and more.

For information about ACF 8 Slice of Life certification and membership, Matt Mornan walks us through a memorable day in his internship as a deli-clerk at a go to www.acfchefs.org. Publix grocery store in Mobile, Ala., that led to his current position as a prepared-food specialist with Publix.

facebook.com/ACFChefs @acfchefs 10 Classical V. Modern Richard Kugelmann and Patrick O’Brien demonstrate the classical French dish Sizzle: The American Culinary Federation Quarterly for Students of Cooking (ISSN 1548-1441), Summer ballontine coq au vin two ways. Learn the basic procedures, then try it for yourself. Volume 11, Number 2, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc., 180 Center Place Way, St. 34 By Degrees Augustine, FL 32095. Send email address changes to Sizzle at [email protected]. All rights John Schopp, CEC, CEPC, CCA, shows how to make apple tarte Tatin. reserved. Reproduction without written permission of the publisher is forbidden. All views and opinions 36 Events expressed in Sizzle are those of the authors and do Save the dates for the 2014 American Culinary Federation National Convention in not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers, employees, contractors or members of Kansas City, Mo. the American Culinary Federation. 39 International Flavors Erol Kanmaz, CEC, WCC, discusses the nuances of the cuisine from his hometown of Kadirli, Turkey. 42 The Interview Award-winning chef, author and artist Gayle Pirie explains the connection between food and art, which comes through at her San Francisco restaurant Foreign Cinema. 46 The Quiz Cover photo Read this issue? Now test your knowledge. courtesy of 47 Last Bite Foreign Cinema. Los Angeles chefs offer their local dining picks. See page 42.

2 Sizzle Summer 14

New editioN ComiNg iN 2014

Knowledge is... TANGY FLAVORFULTANGY SWEET SWEET SWEET SAVORY ROBUST FLAVORFULSAVORYROBUST SWEET SAVORY SWEET RICH SAVORY TANGY RICH NUTRITIOUS FLAVORFUL SWEET SAVORYROBUST your Key to the future. ROBUST SAVORY American Technical Publishers 800-323-3471 • www.atplearning.com president’s message set the stage well president’s message

Set the Stage Well By Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

Hello, students, 40 years, and when hiring, I as many chapter functions as would first look at how many I could, so that a number of This is a great time of year for jobs candidates had and how chefs could see how I worked. many of you, as your student long they stayed at each one. life is finally ending. Now you Set goals and stick to them. Changing jobs every 4-6 will enter the grand culinary You may find it difficult to months, or even every year, world, which is not as big as balance your home and your sometimes tells managers you may think. Many of you work life, but it can be done. that you are not going to stick will get your first full-time job, I know many chefs who around, and, therefore, why one of the most important understand the importance should they take the time to jobs you will ever have. It will of maintaining close ties with train you? set the stage for your future. family and friends. Networking is the key to The restaurant industry You are off to a great start. your career. Stay involved may be the second-largest Don't give up. You can do it, with ACF, attend meetings industry in the U.S., but it trust me. and get to know your fellow is the smallest one when it members. This way, if a great Sincerely, comes to who knows who. It job comes up, you will be the is important to make sure this first to know about it, and you is the career you want and may have several chefs from Tom Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC make every effort to stay in your chapter behind you. National President your first job as long as you American Culinary Federation can. Many people feel that I became an ACF member Product Specialist Manager/ it is necessary to jump from when I graduated from Food Fanatics™ Chef US Foods, Inc., Philadelphia one job to another to learn, culinary school, and my but you also need to show career grew through knowing that you can keep a job. I have the right chefs at the right been a chef for more than time. I volunteered to help at

4 Sizzle Summer 14 Discover your culinary vision with us! Publix is more than the nation’s largest employee-owned company!

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News & Opportunities

Washington ƒƒ A $1,000 grand prize is available to winners one overall winner. Two students from Seattle Culinary ƒƒ In addition to the cash prizes, Academy at Seattle Central Community winners’ recipes will be posted College, Seattle, tied for first place in the on the Louisiana Sweet Potato Washington State Potato Commission’s Commission website and featured recent recipe contest. in the November/December issue Paolo Campbell made Asian Brandade of Louisiana Cookin’. Cod Cakes, which could be considered an ƒƒ Entrants may enter multiple recipes appetizer or entree, flavored with ginger using separate entry forms. and curry. Jihoon Sun presented Potato ƒƒ Entries must be postmarked by May with a shrimp/scallop Thai 31 and received by June 5. curry filling. ƒƒ Winners will be determined The two champions each won $750, based on flavor, visual appeal and while each of four runners-up received creativity. $250. The contest was open to students ƒƒ For more details, visit http://bit. in any of the 11 American Culinary ly/1j6gnnZ. Federation-accredited culinary programs in Washington state. get creative with sweet potatoes Make up a recipe using fresh, canned or frozen Louisiana sweet potatoes for a chance to win $1,000. In a joint partnership, the Louisiana Sweet Potato Commission and Louisiana Cookin’ are escoffier talent sponsoring the 2014 Sweet Rewards Jeremy Iacocca of Carmel, Ind., a Recipe Contest, which is open to those student at Ivy Tech Community College, aged 18 and above. Indianapolis, represented the U.S. in the Escoffier Young Talent competition ƒƒ A $500 prize is available to one winner in Lille, , March 24. He was in each of the following five categories: recommended by the college’s culinary arts top: Paolo Campbell fresh, canned, frozen, culinary student faculty to represent the college, Indiana and bottom: Jihoon Sun and professional chef. the U.S. in the international competition.

6 Sizzle Summer 14 amuse-bouche news & opportunities

Six countries competed for the title of phyllo adds great texture—the recipe was in order, freshness, craving, comfort 2014 Escoffier Young Talent of the year. a clear winner.” and healthfulness. Iacocca tied for fourth place out of seven millennials and To purchase a copy of the study, contact contestants. He enrolled in the hospitality Y-Pulse at [email protected]. administration program at Ivy Tech in their snacks fall 2012 and will graduate this summer. Millennials, those aged 19-36, love their In this issue of Sizzle, learn more about He currently serves as a line cook at Late snacks, but even within that demographic, restaurant snacking trends in “Snacks Harvest Kitchen, Indianapolis. preferences vary, according to a March Have Staying Power” on page 22. 2014 collaborated study by Chicago- based Y-Pulse and The Culinary Visions Panel. Here are some revelations from the study about snacking behaviors and preferences:

ƒƒ Millennials don’t care as much about defining an eating experience as a meal or snack as they do about satisfying their need to eat what they want, when and where they cheese recipe winner choose to eat it. Caroline Ausman of Burlington, Wis., ƒƒ Younger millennials (ages 19-25) took top honors in Monroe, Wis.-based are most apt to buy snacks from Emmi Roth USA’s Grand Cru® Recipe convenience stores, unless they live Contest for Postsecondary Culinary on campus. Then they purchase Students for her Manicotti en Croûte with must read from the cafeteria most often. Brandied Fig recipe (pictured). Learn how to embellish your baked ƒ ƒ Middle millennials (ages 26-30) bread by reading Bread Art: Braiding, Ausman, a student at The Art Institute purchase snacks equally from Decorating, and Painting Edible Bread for of Wisconsin, Milwaukee, and other convenience stores and quick-serve Beginners (Cedar Fort Publishing, 2014), contestants were asked to create a restaurants. They snack most late by chef, cooking instructor and media flavorful and creative pasta recipe afternoon/before dinner. personality Stephanie Petersen. The highlighting Roth Grand Cru, a washed- ƒƒ Older millennials (ages 31-36) prefer rind Alpine-style cheese crafted in 192-page book with numerous recipes cheese, nuts and bakery items as Wisconsin. As the winner among 35 also covers techniques of decorative loaf snacks more than other age groups. entries, Ausman received $2,000 and formation; braided bread; decorative registration and lodging accommodations ƒƒ Millennial men are twice as likely as dough embellishments; fancy rolls; for the upcoming National Restaurant women to choose casual-dining or fast- specialty decorative wreathes and crown Association Restaurant Hotel-Motel casual restaurants to purchase snacks, loaves; bread painting with natural colors Show in Chicago, with her recipe to be and they are more likely to go to the and extracts; animal breads; themed featured at the Emmi Roth USA Cheese 4 workplace cafeteria, supermarket deli bread and buns; and more. and quick-serve venues. Chefs table during the show. send us your news! ƒƒ Millennial women are twice as likely In a press release, Regi Hise, Emmi Roth’s Do you want to appear in our next issue? as men to make snacks at home. director of culinary development, said of If so, we want to hear from you. Send Ausman’s recipe, “Manicotti wrapped in They also go to drugstores and recipe contests, student accomplishments phyllo is a creative and delicious concept. supermarket bakeries more than and school announcements to The sweet flavors of the brandied fig sauce men to buy snacks. [email protected]. balance wonderfully with the savory ƒƒ Important factors among all Grand Cru manicotti filling, and the millennials in choosing a snack are, www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 7 slice of life matt mornan slice of life 6:00 a.m. The day begins with darkness and calm. As I walk into a mostly empty store, I contemplate what I need to do today. Matt Mornan In the kitchen, I turn on all my equipment and get completed the one-year certificate my station set. I review program, allowing me to seamlessly my notes from yesterday change careers. I then continued to familiarize myself with what needs to be and completed Culinard’s associate cooked today. program online.

internship Three-month deli-clerk internship at Publix grocery store in Mobile, Ala., leading to my current position as a prepared-food specialist at Publix. 6 am 7 am 8 am

most interesting lesson learned age I learned that working at Publix is 6:30 a.m. 36 a great career for a chef. I never Today I start with a beautiful thought that I would enjoy working or Châteaubriand that the meat education cooking at a grocery store, but I do. department delivered to me September 2013 online graduate of Publix offers great pay, benefits and and I marinated yesterday. Culinard, The Culinary Institute of an excellent support team. I learned I sear the meat on the grill Virgina College, Richmond, Va., with an what it is like to work for a team that before placing it in the oven. associate of applied science degree in you can count on. When it is done, I set it out to culinary and pastry arts. rest before chilling it. I love career plans preparing the Châteaubriand why there? I plan on pursuing management at the most. It is the nicest and most expensive protein I get While working in real estate, I started Publix. With the company expanding, to work with. taking evening classes at Culinard to I believe I have a great career ahead fulfill my dream. Culinard was newly of me. opened, close by and affordable. When I lost my job, I had just

8 Sizzle Summer 14 7:00 a.m. As the store opens, I unwrap the chef’s case in the deli while replating, refilling and tagging all the 9:30 a.m. prepared foods. The case Today is a truck day. has about 30 slots for me We receive a truck to fill with an assortment filled primarily with of foods. The chef’s case chef products. This is a popular place. We truck delivers such are busy during the lunch items as my spices, rush, usually selling more dry ingredients, fine cold salads. At dinnertime, cheeses and wok we tend to sell more of supplies. I check in 12:30 p.m. the heartier dishes. the delivery truck and After lunch, I start store the products. prep for tomorrow. I 2:00 p.m. quarter red potatoes for With my last hour, I tackle rosemary potatoes. I some deep cleaning. 11:00 a.m. take care of paperwork, According to the cleaning The chef case is now fully stocked, order produce and set schedule, it's time to garnished and ready for a great day of sales. my cooking schedule. scrub the hood vents.

8 am 9 am 10 am 11 am 12 pm 1 pm 2 pm 3 pm

10:00 a.m. With deliveries and the heavy 11:30 a.m. 1:00 p.m. 3:00 p.m. cooking completed, I move on The beauty of working It’s now time for the wok chef Time to go home. to the rest of the food. I prepare for Publix (besides all to go to lunch. I switch over to Another productive quinoa salad, wheatberry the amazing benefits, relieve him. I quickly produce day at Publix, where salad, country club tuna salad, plus the people I get a couple of dishes to refresh shopping is a pleasure. honey fruit chicken salad to work with) is that I the hot bar (spicy long and green beans almondine. get scheduled for an and Mongolian beef). hourlong lunch break.

7:30 a.m. above: The chef’s case, located Back to cooking. With the in the deli, contains about 30 Châteaubriand done and prepared-food items. chilling, I start on the cedar bottom: Founded in 1930, Publix plank salmon. After that, I move operates more than 1,000 grocery on to the turkey meatloaf, stores in six Southeast states and tilapia piccata, roasted Brussels has more than 166,500 employees. sprouts and mashed cauliflower. Photos courtesy of Publix

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 9 classical v. modern ballontine coq au vin classical v. modern

ated on a challenge a chicken, you’ll likely be “Lobster tail is delicate. You scale, ballontine quicker at other proteins. have to gently remove it from R coq au vin ranks in the shell without destroying the middle. The classical It took many attempts to muscle,” Kugelmann says. French dish is loosely about debone a chicken in a timely You can’t pound and flatten deboning and stuffing a manner without mangling the the meat. It requires a certain meat or skin, O’Brien says. The carcass—often chicken— skill level. other necessary basic skills rolling and wrapping it are ones any student works up, poaching or it He felt free to add other to master, including making a in wine sauce, slicing and elements reminiscent of sauce and sauteing and braising serving. With that concept the Southeast to his recipe, the chicken in wine sauce with understood, variations are because classic ballontine coq and . unlimited. But the basics au vin does not present a set of rigid requirements. “A lot of are the place to start before The classic recipe was an interpretation is left up to the reaching for the stars with interpretive dream for chef, including the cooking creative renditions. Richard Kugelmann, the method, whether braising or college’s culinary arts program Patrick O’Brien, a student roasting,” he says. coordinator and a culinary at Fayetteville Technical instructor. He also is on Community College, His recipe calls for hollandaise the board of directors for Fayetteville, N.C., chose sauce, the making of which is a American Culinary Federation to feature ballontine coq skill he found easy early in his (ACF) North Carolina au vin for its interesting training. He suggests others Chapter. He decided to bring preparation of chicken and practice and repeat these kinds the best of the Southeast to all the skills necessary to of skills. “A lot of students go his modern version: Lobster successfully master the through culinary school and and Prosciutto Ballontine with recipe. “If you can get those do any one thing once or twice Crab and Spinach Mousse/ skills down, there are a lot and may not see it again until Timbale, Collard Puree, of other things you can do after they graduate and go Hominy Au Gratin and Red- with them,” he says. And the work somewhere. The only Eye Hollandaise. recipe doesn’t just apply to way to get good experience is to do it at home,” he says. “Use top: Richard Kugelmann chicken, though it might be Just as practice is necessary the skills you learn in school, or bottom: Patrick O’Brien among the most difficult. to fabricate chicken, lobster you won’t become good.” Photos by Brad Losh If you can debone and stuff presents its own challenges.

10 Sizzle Summer 14 Classical photos by Patrick O'Brien Modern photos by Richard Kugelmann classical modern Ballontine Coq au Vin 1. Chicken is the standard Lobster and Prosciutto Ballontine with Crab protein used for ballotine coq au vin, though it is among and Spinach Mousse/Timbale, Collard Puree, the most difficult proteins because of the difficulty of Hominy Au Gratin and Red-Eye Hollandaise deboning without ruining the meat and skin, including 1. Lobster meat is removed from the shell, seasoned and the legs. 2. The chicken is stuffed with and wrapped in prosciutto. 2. The lobster is stuffed with crab spinach duxelle using breadcrumbs as a binder. The and spinach mousse, which also serves as timbale for a challenge is removing the moisture from the vegetables. garnish when baked. The mousse/timbale includes goat, 3. Haricots vert and polenta are easy elements to this ricotta, mascarpone and mozzarella cheeses along with recipe. The polenta is cooked in chicken stock, cooled to pine nuts. 3. Under the lobster and prosciutto ballontine sits set and finally cut with a ring cutter. hominy gratin with such ingredients as Parmesan, sharp white cheddar and Gruyere cheeses and . 4. The key ingredient in this red-eye hollandaise sauce is strong coffee. It is garnished with tasso ham. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 11 classical v. modern ballontine coq au vin classical Working for a lumber company, Community College Culinary amount of water. “Getting that he adopted that method. “Being Patrick O’Brien, 34, only recently Arts Showcase at Raleigh out correctly and not burning a sponge in school is great, but looked at the possibility of a Convention Center, Raleigh, everything so you can use the be discerning, and pick out culinary career. While he aims to N.C. In October 2013, he won a reduced vegetables as a stuffing things that actually work for become as well-rounded in his silver medal in the SD category that isn’t soggy and nasty was you,” he says. skills as possible, his real desire for a pumpkin carving, along interesting,” he says. When he is to become a professional fruit with a gold medal and “Best of chops and minces vegetables, he The rest of the dish is simple.Coq and vegetable carver. Show” award, for a fruit carving squeezes them in cheesecloth to au vin means to cook in wine. He at an ACF-approved culinary minimize the moisture. sauteed the ingredients, deglazed He has come to believe the competition in Winston-Salem, the pan with wine and chicken saying that if you do what you N.C. At the same event, he also Part of the recipe also requires stock, then poured everything love, you’ll never have to work a received ACF North Carolina trussing the chicken after into the roasting pan before day in your life. With a bachelor Chapter’s Mary Margaret fabricating, stuffing and rolling laying the trussed chicken on top. of arts degree from Arizona Traxler Hospitality Education it. He discovered that all chefs After proper roasting, he used the State University, Phoenix, his Scholarship. have their own way of trussing, roasting liquid to make the sauce. latest quest is to get his associate and there is no one preferred degree in culinary arts on his In his culinary journey so way over another. For this With all the required skills in way to a carving career, using far, O’Brien has made some recipe, he watched a 10-minute hand, O’Brien realizes that they the skills he has already been realizations that come to bear Jacques Pepin YouTube video will transfer to other proteins. He recognized for. In April 2013, in his classic ballontine coq au on making ballontine (http:// imagines how easy it would be he won a silver medal in the SD vin dish. One is in the making bit.ly/1bgZcZT). O’Brien was to stuff tenderloin or a beef (showpieces, student, individual) of duxelle. When sauteing impressed with Pepin’s quick- dish. “That’s what you’re working category at the Wake Tech vegetables, there’s an amazing and-easy chicken trussing, and toward,” he says.

Ballontine Coq au Vin Yield: 4 servings Mushroom and 4 oz. bacon batonnet, cut 6 . Return chicken to pan; roast, Haricots Vert Spinach Duxelle 2 T. butter, divided covered, at 350˚F for 30-40 Ingredients: Ingredients: 9 pearl onions minutes. 10 oz. haricots vert ½ lb. button mushrooms 7 . Remove and plate chicken. 8-10 oz. spinach 2 oz. butter 10 oz. pinot noir Garnish with bacon, onions, ¾ lb. button mushrooms 2 garlic cloves, minced 1½ garlic cloves, crushed mushrooms and . 1 T. clarified butter 1 ∕8 t. dried 8 . For sauce, reduce roasting liquid Method: 4 oz. breadcrumbs 1 by one-third. Thicken with blond 1 . Blanch and shock haricots vert. ½ t. salt 4 oz. chicken stock roux. Season with salt. 2 . Melt butter in pan. Add garlic; ½ t. pepper Parsley, as needed 9 . Strain sauce; reserve. brown slightly. 3 . Add haricots vert; toss to cook. Method: Method: Supreme sauce 1 . Clean and dry spinach and 1 . Debone chicken; stuff (including Ingredients: Polenta mushrooms. legs) with duxelle. Truss chicken 8 oz. chicken velouté Ingredients: 2 . Dice mushrooms; squeeze out tightly. 2 oz. heavy cream 24 oz. chicken stock moisture. ¼ oz. butter 2 . Render bacon in saucepan. 12 oz. quick-cook polenta 1 3 . Saute mushrooms in butter until ∕8 t. salt Reserve for garnish. Pinch of salt and pepper start to brown. 1 ∕8 t. white pepper 3 . Brown ballontine in 1 T. butter. 4 . Add chopped spinach one-fourth Few drops lemon juice Method: at a time to wilt. Season; cool. Remove. 1 . Boil stock. Add polenta; stir. Cook 5 . Mix in breadcrumbs to bind. 4 . Saute onions and mushrooms Method: until polenta starts to pull away 6 . Season with salt and pepper. in remaining 1 T. butter. Reserve 1 . Simmer velouté over moderate from sides. for garnish. heat; reduce by one-fourth. 2 . Season with salt and pepper. 5 . Deglaze pan with wine; bring to Chicken Ballontine 2 . Temper cream by slowly stirring Spread on sheet pan. Cool to set. a boil. Make sachet with garlic, Ingredients: sauce into stainless-steel bowl. 3 . Cut with ring cutter; plate. 1 whole chicken thyme and bay leaf. Add sachet 3 . Stir in butter, salt, pepper and 4-5 oz. duxelle and chicken stock to pan. lemon juice. Strain.

12 Sizzle Summer 14

classical v. modern ballontine coq au vin

modern Culinary was a later-in-life career fabricated and stuffed lobster tail timbale, and included cheese as a the hominy gratin requires the chef choice for Richard Kugelmann, meat in prosciutto slices because the binder for how colorful it would be to make perfect béchamel sauce. who was a corporate banker for five two flavors go well together. Beyond rolled up and sliced. The rest of the Making the mousse two ways also years before moving to the apparel that, he considered ingredients and ingredients he chose came from Low came to bear, one as part of the industry. He turned to Central flavors native to the Southeast, and Country moorings, incorporating lobster tail stuffing, the other, in a Piedmont Community College, landed on the recipe, Lobster and collards as garnish and a side of timbale to slice and arrange on the Charlotte, N.C., in the 1990s to Prosciutto Ballontine with Crab and hominy gratin rather than potatoes. plate. The collards require three get a culinary arts education, and Spinach Mousse/Timbale, Collard “For the last component, I love hours of braising before they are eventually worked his way up to Puree, Hominy Au Gratin and Red- red-eye gravy, so I took coffee and pureed to a soft, smooth texture. owning two restaurants. He began Eye Hollandaise. used that rather than vinegar, lemon Perhaps, above all, Kugelmann working part time at Fayetteville While the classic version juice and water. Then I garnished the notes that none of the ingredients Technical Community College in incorporates mushrooms and sauce with tasso ham,” he says. are complicated or hard to find, 2000 and went full time in 2006. spinach as the ballontine stuffing, Saucier skills are important to and substitutions are perfectly For a modern ballontine coq au he took the ingredients closer to the the modern version, beyond the acceptable. Tasso can be replaced vin dish, he thought of wrapping sea with crab and spinach mousse/ hollandaise sauce. The cheese in with prosciutto or bacon.

4 cans hominy 8 . Remove from oven; hold warm 1 oz. strong coffee Lobster and 1 T. garlic, minced for service, or cool, label, date 16 oz. clarified butter Prosciutto Ballontine 1 oz. all-purpose flour and refrigerate until ready for Lemon juice, as needed with Crab and 16 oz. heavy cream later service. Water (or additional coffee), Kosher salt and , to as needed Crab and Spinach Mousse/ Spinach Mousse/ taste Salt and , to taste Timbale (and stuffing for 4 oz. sharp white cheddar cheese, 2 oz. tasso ham, diced or pureed Timbale, Collard Lobster Ballontine) grated Puree, Hominy Au Ingredients: Method: 2 oz. Gruyere (or Swiss) cheese, Gratin and Red-Eye ½ oz. goat cheese 1 . In stainless-steel bowl, whisk egg grated 8 oz. ricotta cheese yolks and coffee together to Hollandaise Method: 4 oz. mascarpone cheese triple volume. Yield: 8 servings 1 . Preheat oven to 350°F. Prepare 4 oz. fresh baby spinach, divided 2 . Transfer bowl over bain-marie containing barely simmering Lobster and Prosciutto hotel pan with pan spray. ½ oz. butter 2 T. pine nuts water. Cook the mixture 1-3 Ballontine Combine panko and Parmesan 6 oz. mozzarella cheese minutes, until volume doubles, Ingredients: cheese; generously coat 4 oz. crab, special grade reaching the ribbon stage. 8 (4-oz. average) lobster tails pan with it. Some panko and 1 egg Remove from heat. Whisk about Salt and pepper, to taste Parmesan will be left over for Salt and white pepper, to taste 20 seconds to prevent eggs from 1 cup crab and spinach mousse/ next step. continuing to cook. timbale 2 . Melt butter and coat remaining Method: (recipe follows) 3 . Add butter to egg/coffee mixture panko/cheese mixture lightly; 8 thin slices prosciutto 1 . In food processor, puree goat in steady stream while constantly set aside. cheese, ricotta, mascarpone Method: whisking. Use only enough butter 3 . Drain and rinse hominy; set and half the spinach. Transfer to 1 . Carefully remove lobster meat to achieve somewhat thick aside until ready to use. bowl; set aside. from tail shells; butterfly, season consistency. There may be some 4 . In saucepan, heat 1 oz. butter 2 . In small saucepan, melt butter. butter left over. with salt and pepper. over medium-high heat, add Saute remaining spinach just 4 . Add lemon juice and/or 2 . Pipe 2 T. crab and spinach garlic; cook 1 minute. until wilted, 2-3 minutes. Coarsely additional coffee or water, to mousse down center of each 5 . Add flour; cook to blond roux. chop; cool. taste. Be careful not to thin sauce tail meat. Add heavy cream. 3 . Toast pine nuts in 350°F oven for too much. Season, to taste, with 3 . Wrap each tightly in prosciutto, 6 . Add salt and pepper. Slowly 5 minutes; cool. Fold into cheese salt and cayenne pepper. sealing ends. whisk in cheddar and Gruyere mixture with cooled spinach, 5 . Garnish with diced or pureed 4 . Wrap each tightly in plastic cheeses, stirring constantly to mozzarella, crab, egg, salt and tasso ham. wrap; cook by poaching in melt cheese. Remove from heat. pepper. Adjust seasoning; set 6 . Serve immediately or hold warm water or by sous vide. Taste and adjust seasonings, if mousse aside. between 95°F and 100°F in 5 . Hold warm for final plate-up. necessary. Note: Use part of recipe as stuffing thermos or butter warmer. for lobster recipe above; bake some Hominy Gratin 7 . Drain hominy. Coat with cheese Collards Puree as timbale for plate garnish. Ingredients: sauce; distribute evenly in hotel Ingredients: 1 cup panko pan. Top with reserved panko/ Red-Eye Hollandaise Sauce 1 oz. butter 1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated cheese mixture. Bake until done, Ingredients: 2 oz. yellow , diced 5 oz. butter, divided about 30 minutes. 2 egg yolks 1 t. garlic, minced 8 oz. collards, stemmed, washed, chopped 8 oz. chicken stock 16 oz. water 2 oz. diced ham hock Salt and pepper, to taste ½ oz. Frank’s Hot Sauce 1 oz. white vinegar

Method: 1 . In large pot, melt butter over medium-high heat. Saute onion, then garlic, until tender. 2 . Add collards; continue to cook until begins to soften, about 10 minutes. 3 . Add chicken stock, water, ham, salt, pepper, hot sauce and vinegar. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer for at least 1 hour, longer if time permits. 4 . Use immediately or cool down to 70°F within 2 hours, then to 41°F within 4 hours. Label, date and refrigerate until ready to use for service. Note: Prior to service, reheat to 165°F for 15 seconds. Garnish Ingredients: 2 oz. canned black-eyed peas Salt and pepper, to taste All-purpose flour, as needed Microgreens, held separately

Method: 1 . Drain and rinse black-eyed peas. In bowl, season with salt and pepper. 2 . A little at a time, toss in flour to evenly coat peas. 3 . Deep-fry peas until golden- brown. Set aside on paper towels to drain.

Assembly: Place portion of hominy gratin on plate. Slice lobster ballontine on a bias; lay into hominy. Brush or paint plate with some collard puree. Shingle some crab and spinach mousse/timbale pieces on top. Drizzle red-eye hollandaise sauce on plate next to lobster. Garnish sauce with tasso ham. Complete presentation with ¼ cup fried black-eyed peas and 2 T. microgreens per plate.

Plan Your Career Roadmap

Make smart directional choices as you dive into your culinary quest. // By Jody Shee

f your dream of life beyond culinary school is to get a sous-chef position right away and land an executive-chef gig a few years later on your way to I opening your own restaurant by age 30, your ambition is commendable. But chefs with a few years and successes under their belts have some career- beginning advice to offer that may be contrary to these kinds of goals.

Sizzle asked five chefs to share their insights from the choices they made early on that shaped their careers. Let their experience be your best teacher. Tramonto also advises to try to drill Rick Tramonto down to the specific genre of cooking Chicago-based celebrity chef you are most interested in. “You should Rick Tramonto is a restaurateur, cook where your heart and food desires author of eight books and are. I took jobs in which the food didn’t winner of numerous awards, speak to me. I did it for the job. I learned including several James Beard a lot, but I wasn’t happy,” he says. “If I awards. He is chef/co-founder cooked food that spoke to me, I couldn’t of Restaurant R'evolution, wait to get to work. I was the first one New Orleans. there and the last to leave because I had a connection with the food.” Rick Tramonto already had fair cooking experience in his hometown of Rochester, N.Y., working at a steakhouse and then a hotel where he started to learn classic French techniques. But he realized that for a real chance in the culinary world, he would have to pack up, leave his family You should cook and move to New York. “where your heart He landed a prep job in Manhattan at Tavern on the Green, where he remained and food desires for a year earning minimum wage. He Holton

and two other guys struggled to survive are. ... If I cooked sharing a one-bedroom apartment. Daniel

by food that spoke to From there, Tramonto caught some

me, I couldn't wait great early career breaks in New York Photo when he joined the renowned Alfred to get to work. Portale at Gotham Bar & Grill and later Theo Adley worked under Gerard Pangaud and Joe — Rick Tramonto“ Theo Adley is executive chef Baum at Aurora. of The Squeaky , Denver, “It’s easy to come out of school and which is known for its progressive think, ‘now I’m going to get my $50,000 farm-driven fare. He previously sous-chef position,’ but maybe you owned his own restaurant, The should take a $25,000 line-cook job or Pinyon, Boulder, Colo. He sold it work in pastry for a few years,” Tramonto and began hosting a series of says. “A lot of chefs skip over pastry, Chinese street-food pop-ups and they lack pastry skills.” Butchering with hand-pulled and is another important skill to hone. char siu pork in bars and homes “Continue your education by putting around Denver before joining yourself in one of these positions.” The Squeaky Bean.

18 Sizzle Summer 14 Theo Adley loves his home state of To culinary students, he says, “Look Colorado. After cooking in a few within. Find something you want to restaurants, he went to the Culinary learn how to do better than anyone School of the Rockies, Boulder, to else, then focus on that for a few years. become more familiar with classic Once you are comfortable with that, One of the best French cooking and to “formalize the go back to where you came from and bring it there. The more you can bring “things you can affair,” he says. After graduation, he had a choice. He could go to one of the “foodie back to your city, the more inspiration do is get out cities,” such as New York, Chicago or San you can give.” Francisco, and work under famous chefs, there into a or he could stay in his beloved state. He great culinary believed Colorado was beautiful, had so much to offer and was up-and-coming in city, travel and the culinary scene. So he decided to stay. work in different Early on, all he wanted to do was study areas. It forces pasta-making. This led him to , and he ended up working you to grow up. under Ryan Hardy at The Little Nell, — Adam Siegel “ Aspen, Colo. It was an experience that informs Adley’s cooking technique today. “(Hardy’s) style was Italian with American backbone to it, and it was eye-opening,” Adley says. “He owned his own farm, and I became acquainted with managing a farm and its crop cycles, and Adam Siegel the livestock that comes through. So I Adam Siegel is the James Beard developed more of a farm outlook.” Award-winning executive chef Eventually, Adley opened his own of Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro restaurant with the name Pinyon, which and Bacchus, Milwaukee. He is a tree common in Colorado. Naming also is corporate chef/managing it that was philosophical, “thinking of partner of the 13 locations of pinyon nuts, which were sustenance The Bartolotta Restaurants. in Colorado in the winter when food Halfway through his culinary was sparse,” he says. “I took the idea of education at Chicago’s Kendall stockpiling and self-sustaining.” College, Adam Siegel started an After a few culinary side excursions, he apprenticeship under Paul Bartolotta landed as executive chef at The Squeaky at Spiaggia, Chicago, where, in three Bean preparing progressive American years, he worked every station before food, largely from the restaurant’s he got the itch to move on at age 23. 7-acre farm. Though he dreamed of working in www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 19 Europe, he listened to Bartolotta’s of French gastronomy and one of the assessment. “He felt I wasn’t ready. fathers of nouvelle cuisine. “Bocuse was I needed to grow up, mature and the restaurant’s consulting chef at the hone my skills,” Siegel says. Instead, time. Needless to say, it was an amazing Bartolotta arranged for him to experience and was foundational to study with Julian Serrano at Masa’s my career.” Restaurant in San Francisco. For those who would like to eventually “One of the best things you can do is get take a foodservice management position, out there into a great culinary city, travel Hale believes it’s important to understand and work in different areas. It forces all areas in order to lead others to be you to grow up. It makes you become successful. “If I had not stepped back more responsible in ways you’re not into the position of working the line at used to,” he says. In nine years, Siegel the Meridian, I would never have been lived in Chicago, San Francisco, Florida, exposed to all that I have been,” he says. Washington, D.C., and Italy.

He admits that moving to Italy was a You’re told you Rex Hale hard decision. “I was leaving behind an Rex Hale is corporate chef for “need to be a sous offer to work at Picasso at Bellagio in Las Vegas with Julian Serrano. I would the 22 hotels that are part of St. chef first, then Louis-based LHM where he does have been a part of the opening team, menu development and training. work up. No. Learn but going to Italy was priceless. I learned He also is executive chef at 360 from Valentino Marcattilii, chef of San everything you rooftop bar at the Hilton at the Domenico of Imola, a two-star Michelin Ballpark and The Restaurant at restaurant,” he says. need to know, and The Cheshire, both in St. Louis. once you have Wherever he was, Siegel worked many By age 22, Rex Hale was already executive hours off the clock to learn as much as chef of a St. Louis hotel with a restaurant learned, then you possible. “I remember at Spiaggia, and banquet business. But he believes one can move into I would go in the early morning to of the best decisions he ever made was to work with the pasta ladies, and then quit that job and move to Houston, where those positions. with the saucier or with the pastry he initially worked as a pastry chef at the chefs,” he says. — Rex Hale“ former University Club of Houston.

He advises, “Don’t think that just He could have kept on the executive-chef Hale advises, “Learn what you can at a because you went to culinary school path, “but I wouldn’t have gained the young age. You’ll never be able to take you are a chef. It takes years of hard, experience that I did,” he says. His next those years back. To be good in this field, hands-on work to become a chef. It move put him under French tutelage you have to understand all parts: pastry, requires passion, devotion, patience without having to move to France. He bread, garde manger. … You’re told you and practice. Work as a line cook for worked at Houston’s Restaurant de need to be a sous chef first, then work up. a while. Don’t race to become a sous France in the Meridian Hotel under Jose No. Learn everything you need to know, chef. Travel and live in different regions Guiitterez, a sous chef of master chef and once you have learned, then you can or countries.” Paul Bocuse, who is considered a father move into those positions.”

20 Sizzle Summer 14 NExt issue Donate time to gain experience

Start with a goal, then “work backward. If you want to open a catering company, then go find a top catering company you can go to work for. David Falk — David Falk “ David Falk is executive chef and a season of sacrifice. “You’ll only grow president of Boca Restaurant up in uncomfortable situations. You’re Group, Cincinnati, among which putting yourself in the furnace. How long is the group’s flagship restaurant can you sacrifice your comfort for the Boca and a traditional trattoria, goal?” Have a vision, and drive yourself Sotto. He has helped to shape to be disciplined and go after it. Cincinnati’s culinary scene. He sees an epidemic of what he calls When David Falk graduated from The unripe-fruit syndrome. “Young cooks Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, have incredible talent, but they shortcut N.Y., in 1996, he knew he wanted to own the process. They take themselves off the his own restaurant someday. But first, vine too soon and don’t fully ripen. They he wanted experience working for a top don’t get enough nutrients from getting high-end chef, a French chef, an American that experience.” chef and to work in Italy. His externship at His only regret is that, knowing he Chicago’s Spiaggia allowed him to work for wanted to open his own restaurant, a high-end chef. On graduation, he moved he didn’t spend much time early on to Italy and worked in a restaurant in Rome. focusing on the business side. “Now Back in the U.S., he worked at a 5-star I’d say, if you want to own your own French restaurant. His great American-chef business, go get an MBA to get that dream was fulfilled when he then worked business background.” for Charlie Trotter in Chicago. Jody Shee is Sizzle’s editor-in-chief. She He advises, “Start with a goal, then has more than 20 years of food-writing work backward. If you want to open a experience and writes the blog www. catering company, then go find a top sheefood.com. catering company you can go to work for.” Moving around can be personally uncomfortable, but your early career is

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 21

Snacks

Staying Po Have wer

Consumers love their snacks. Discover the trendy ways foodservice operators meet this need to nosh. By Suzanne Hall arger than hors d’oeuvres and and cheddar cheeses and herbs such as smaller than appetizers, snacks thyme, rosemary and . “It’s an Lare a way of life for many easy melt, like a queso dip, and served Americans. Some 53% of us snack two with toasted ciabatta,” Morgan says. An to three times a day, according to a equally popular afternoon snack is his study by research firm The NPD Group, Asian-style fried calamari made with Inc., Port Washington, N.Y. Our choices rice flour and served with a sweet chili run the gamut from a bag of chips to a lime sauce. candy bar, a handful of fries to a deviled egg. And while in terms of what’s Kozmo’s snack menu also includes eaten the line between snacks and house poutine, a typical Canadian appetizers can be blurry, their role is fast food of fries topped with smoked not. Appetizers precede a meal. Snacks , gravy and Jack cheese. Among are eaten between meals. They help fill other menued snacks are deviled eggs; restaurant tables during off hours, give andouille sausage flatbread; servers something to do besides fill with naan; and salmon dip. saltshakers and add to the bottom line. When writing his snack menu, Morgan Snacks represent one in five eating keeps in mind what’s in the kitchen occasions in the U.S., according to the so he can mix and match ingredients. study. And contrary to what some may Calamari, for example, can be added to think, snacks don’t significantly draw any salad. Salmon sometimes appears sales away from other parts of the menu. as a snack and among the main-course offerings. Guests often snack at the bar while waiting for the rest of their party. Fries are a popular snack at Bareburger, Then they go in and order a meal, says the organic, all-natural 17-unit burger Oswald Morgan, owner of Kozmo chain based in Astoria, N.Y. The chain Gastro Pub, Johns Creek, Ga., adding, has offered a snack menu since the first opposite top: The “I haven’t done a scientific survey, but I unit opened in 2009. Owner/founder assorted pickle snack don’t believe snacks hurt other sales.” Euripides Pelekanos believed then at Bareburger features garlic pickle chips, and believes now that there are always spicy pickle chips, afternoon delights customers who do not want a full meal. butter pickle chips and Mid- to late-afternoon is a big Instead, they want something they can homemade red slaw. snacking time at Kozmo. Groups of share. “We cater to that,” Pelekanos opposite bottom: The neighborhood women and sometimes says. “We are a welcoming, cool kind Sweet Potato Croqs couples come in to share a bottle of of place where people congregate and available at Bareburger come with wine and some snacks, including cheese share a basket of fries.” These could chipotle mayo and stone- fondue. This most-popular snack is be fresh-cut french fries served with ground honey . made with blue, Parmesan, mozzarella any of Bareburger’s , including

24 Sizzle Summer 14 curry ketchup, habanero chipotle mayo, smokehouse sauce and smoked mayo, or harvest sweet potato fries with curry ketchup and ranch dressing. Sometimes guests order the fries along with the restaurant’s popular breaded onion rings with curry mayo and smokehouse sauce.

Bareburger’s customers tend to be well-educated professionals between the ages of 21 and 35. In late afternoon, Bareburger

of they like to come in and share a pitcher of beer or a bottle of wine and one of the restaurant’s several snack dishes, Courtesy the next big snack trend If there’s a new trend in the snacking world, it’s the desire for foods that consumers perceive as more healthful. Fruit is one of them, if it’s presented with some kind of wow factor, says Lori Harlig, co-owner/co-founder of Amici Catering, Phoenix.

Sweet potatoes sport a Bareburger

healthy halo. Astoria, N.Y.- of based Bareburger’s sweet potato croqs are made from organic sweet potatoes. Courtesy “They’re delicious but loaded which include panko-crusted zucchini dining rooms are part of the trend, as with calories,” says owner/ founder Euripides Pelekanos. sticks; butter pickle chips; chicken well. The Spotted Pig, New York, for Recently, he and his staff tenders; and assorted pickles with red example, offers a snack menu in its bar began looking into putting snacks with fewer calories slaw. Having a snack menu increases that includes deviled eggs, devils on and less fat on the menu. beverage sales, Pelekanos says. horseback (bacon-wrapped prunes), Guests at Kozmo Gastro Pub, chicken liver toast, roasted , Johns Creek, Ga., have been Casual spots such as Bareburger and marinated and a pot of pickles. asking for lighter snacks. “We Kozmo aren’t the only restaurant will be adding some grilled items and more vegetable segment taking advantage of customers’ At Asador in the Renaissance Dallas snacks to our menu,” says yearning for snacks. Some more upscale Hotel, Dallas, a selection of snacks is owner Oswald Morgan. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 25 snacks to as many as 5 million college students. It’s no wonder that Rick Ortman, the company’s director of consumer insights, pays close attention to what they like. He tracks snacking trends across Sodexo’s other business segments, as well. Students, he believes, are among the biggest snackers, partaking to satisfy hunger, reenergize and reduce stress. Bareburger

of Salty foods, such as pretzels and chips, are the most popular snacks among

Courtesy college students, followed by cookies, then fruit. “Students are more likely to an integral part of the farm-to-table choose bottled or tap water for their menu developed by chef/partner Dean James Max. The offerings include a jar afternoon snack than are adults in the

Bareburger workforce, who tend more toward of pickles with , cauliflower, of

, radishes and habanero vinegar; coffee drinks,” Ortman says. “Sodas also are popular.”

Courtesy fire-roasted Gulf of Mexico stone crabs with spicy mustard; tamarind grilled Salty snacks and sweets such as candy Texas quail on a stick; habanero agave are the norm during class hours at chicken wings with pickled vegetables; the University of California, Berkeley. and beef fat french fries with spicy Lucky Vasquez, director of operations, housemade ketchup and lemon aioli. campus restaurants and concessions, The advantage to having snacks on oversees eight retail operations on a hotel dining room menu, some campus, ranging from convenience believe, is to offer guests wider options stores to restaurant-style operations. and encourage them to come to the Some serve as few as 100 students a restaurant more often. day. The largest operation can see as many as 6,000 customers. The venues college connection are primarily grab-and-go, serving Afternoon snacking among college sandwiches, wraps, sushi and other students is part of the noshing trend items. In addition to chips and candy, that can’t be underestimated. On UC Berkeley students’ snacks of choice any given day, contract management are cookies, donuts, french fries, chili company Sodexo, Gaithersburg, fries, egg rolls and inari—bite-sized Md., has the opportunity to provide snacks of tofu bags filled with rice as

26 Sizzle Summer 14 NExt issue sweet and heat

simple and inexpensive sushi. “Students fruit trays; assorted hummus with purchase sandwiches throughout the vegetables and chips; day. French fries and chili fries also are bar banana sushi rolls; and various popular,” Vasquez says. bundtinis (little cakes). One of her specialties is housemade pop morning munching tarts. These hand-held fruit pies are especially popular for weddings. Traditional mid-morning snacks such as donuts, Danish pastries, scones and biscuits combined with lattes, late-night noshes macchiatos and sometimes fruit Harlig sometimes offers late-night juices are a morning way of life in snack suggestions to her customers, the workplace. These items often are such as monogrammed pop tarts or provided by hotels and convention a hot chocolate bar offering a variety

centers as break fare for meetings of selections with or without alcohol. Sodexo

of and seminars. Kettle corn drizzled with melted chocolate mixed with chili powder

Lori Harlig and her husband Scott Courtesy and sprinkled with edible gold leaf is founded Amici Catering, Phoenix, in another option. 2007 after many years in other areas guess what’s no. 1 Despite restaurant snack menus of foodservice. Their business is fairly While wedding guests are treated to and college students’ love of all evenly split between corporate work and elegant evening snacks, college students things sweet and salty, fruit is social events, where snacks play a large look for more basic fare that often the No. 1 snack food in America, according to The NPD Group’s role. “A lot of our corporate clients want resembles a meal, not a snack, according Snacking in America Survey. The snacks for their morning meetings,” she to Sodexo’s Ortman. Beyond chips, fact that fruit is popular among says. Among the snacks she offers are pretzels and cookies, they also choose all age groups may account for its top ranking. rice cakes with cashew butter topped pizza, nachos, french fries and burgers. with fresh strawberries, and mini waffles. Snacking is a way of life for college The waffles are about a quarter the size students, and their snacking habits will of a regular waffle. “We top them with follow them into the future, Ortman sweet and savory fillings and fold them believes. Snacking on campuses, at over like a panini,” she says. events and in restaurants is a trend above: Sodexo's OPT Healthy Amici also offers a trail-mix bar where that’s here to stay. snack vending machine. meeting attendees mix and match opposite top: Sweet potato Suzanne Hall has been writing about the ingredients to fill snack bags. fries provide a better-for-you chefs, restaurants, food and wine from her snack image. “Grown-up” apple oatmeal cookies and home in Soddy-Daisy, Tenn., for more than opposite bottom: Offering 25 years. popcorn also are popular at morning various dips adds to the meetings, Harlig says. Snack offerings already alluring appeal of in the afternoon include cheese and fries and onion rings. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 27 Mobile Restaurants Make Sense

Food trucks are a trendy alternative to owning a brick-and-mortar establishment, but they are not for the faint of heart.

by Rob Benes Grid

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f you’ve ever toyed with the possibility of running Choi, who announced its location via Twitter and a food truck someday, you’ll be pleased to know influenced the heavy use of social media marketing I that the budding segment is not just a passing among today’s food trucks. fad. These mobile eateries are expected to generate 3-4 percent of total restaurant revenue—about $2.7 develop a brand billion—by 2017, a fourfold increase from 2012, Food trucks, by nature, are artisanal, in that they according to Emergent Research, a Lafayette, Calif.- tend to specialize in one or two food items done based small-business research and consulting firm. well. So, first things first—you need to create a unique concept. The Koji BBQ food truck, Los Angeles, is credited with being one of the pioneers in today’s gourmet Loudon County, Va., food truck owners Nancy food truck movement. Selling fusion Korean and Jezior and Sharon Lindblad spent three years Mexican cuisine, it was founded in 2008 by Roy dreaming of a way to share their passion for a standard restaurant requires. “Working on a food truck is perfect for someone who doesn’t like to be stuck in a kitchen all day,” Garza says. “With a food truck, you drive to locations and set up shop, and there are opportunities to go on sales calls.”

Some people imagine that working on a food truck is easy—it isn’t. “People think that all you do is hop in the truck, drive somewhere and start cooking,” says Barnhart.

You work long hours, with much more responsibility than just cooking, such as food prepping, Courtesy of Kogi BBQ ordering food and supplies, vegetarian and vegan food before term plan is to open a restaurant and accounting and preventative creating The Randy Radish. It’s have the trucks and restaurant work maintenance on the truck and a gourmet food truck that serves hand-in-hand. equipment. You must also endure plant-based alternatives to popular such physical demands as loading fast-food items. Before developing your own and unloading items from the truck. concept, research trucks in your Craig Garza, owner of Rockstar area through Google or Yelp. Many You have to enjoy being outside— Bakeshop, Dallas, wanted to stand cities have organizations that group not just during the warm summer out from all other dessert trucks. street-food vendors together. For months, but also during the winter. He discovered there were a number example, in San Francisco, Off the And you have to be personable, of cupcake and ice cream mobile Grid operates 27 weekly markets engaging with customers. chefs eateries roaming the streets, but in the greater Bay area and works do not regularly speak with only one that sold whoopie pies, with more than 150 vendors customers, whereas food-truck and it was for sale. He bought it. weekly, with a mix of vendors so operators talk with each customer each market varies week to week. who comes to the window. “It’s Greg Barnhart, owner of Toasty “These markets provide a perfect an interactive and engaging job,” Cheese, Schaumburg, Ill., wanted way to explore what kind of food Cohen says. “There’s an immediate to open a restaurant, but wasn’t sure trucks are on the streets,” says Matt connection with guests.” a toasted-cheese concept would Cohen, company founder. last long as a brick-and-mortar You need to handle pressure, working establishment. He decided to in tight quarters with others. “When start with a food truck and build a job description it’s service time, it gets busy and fast. following. This approach paid off, as Food-truck ownership is for We’re only in a spot for a few hours, he purchased a second truck and has entrepreneurs who may not want and that’s when everyone comes plans for a third next year. His long- to take on the 20-item menu that to order,” Barnhart says. “You need

30 Sizzle Summer 14 Radish

Randy

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Courtesy additional education Not many, if any, culinary schools offer classes about starting, operating or owning a food truck, so students need to take the initiative to learn on their own. Accounting, marketing and other business classes should be part of a curriculum to gain a business background. to keep a level head and consistently additional $5,000 for the wrap. Applying for a food truck serve high-quality items over and over.” In the county where the truck is internship or externship is the best way to get hands-on Finally, you need to be an innovator registered, they rent commercial experience. Greg Barnhart, and a salesperson, creating new kitchen space for food preparation owner of Toasty Cheese, Schaumburg, Ill., offered both a recipes and finding hot spots to for $1,400 per month. “Under most 60-and 90-day internship within sell food. “Salesmanship is needed city laws, no food that is sold or the past year and heard from the to approach businesses and served from a truck may be stored or student interns how surprised they were by the pace of what organizations to make a proposal, prepared in a home,” Lindblad says. goes on in the truck. “There are allowing you to park in their “If a food truck isn’t associated with some points when we serve 150 people per hour for three to four locations,” Garza says. a brick-and-mortar restaurant, the hours straight,” he says. “That’s food must be prepared at a licensed much more than what many operating expenses commissary or shared kitchen.” independent restaurants do.” Compared with a restaurant, a food There’s also truck insurance (about previous spread: Serving from a food truck is an interactive truck has lower startup and overhead $2,500 annually), general liability and engaging job, with an expenses with less staff. Many factors insurance (about $3,500 annually), immediate connection with determine the costs. A used truck can gas, vehicle repairs, food, paper guests. Photo by Joseph Schell cost between $20,000 and $40,000, products, marketing materials and a opposite: The Kogi BBQ food while a new truck can run as much as host of other miscellaneous expenses. truck, Los Angeles, founded $100,000 or more. by Roy Choi, is credited as To save on expenses, it’s handy to being one of the pioneers in The Randy Radish is a pre-owned food have some mechanical know-how. today’s gourmet food truck movement. Photo by Eric Shin truck that just needed to be wrapped Equipment on the truck can suddenly above: Food-truck ownership with The Randy Radish logo. Jezior’s need repairs, sometimes during is an interactive and engaging and Lindblad’s initial investment service. “Calling a repair person can job with an immediate was $25,000 for the truck, with an connection with guests. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 31 Grid

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be expensive, which only eats into wrapper or container and have been He must determine if there are your profits,” Lindblad says. manufactured, prepared or wrapped enough people in a building to in a licensed food establishment. make it worth the trip. On average, it costs Barnhart $500 to roll the additional fees In Philadelphia, a permit is $150; in truck out. If he only makes $1,500 City, county and state food-truck Los Angeles, $695; and in Virginia, to $2,000 per location, he may pass laws and regulations continue to Lindblad explains, every county on the job. change. “The biggest challenge in requires a separate permit, which owning a food truck isn’t buying ranges from $40 to $350. Fire-safety At some office locations, Barnhart it, but the logistics of operating permits are another expense. delivers food to people at their the truck in obtaining permits and desks or sets up a pickup table licenses, as well as setting up shop setting up shop inside the building. He also offers each day,” says Cohen. The possibilities on where to park online ordering in which orders the truck are limitless. If you’re are placed up to 24 hours ahead of Contact your city or county health a good salesperson, you can find the truck arriving. He sends out an or environmental department to work catering events of all kinds— email confirmation noting when the determine licensing requirements weddings, work outings and order will be available for pickup. for a mobile vendor. Fees are birthday parties, for example. different for trucks that cook Lindblad relies on regular gigs. On onboard than for those that serve Toasty Cheese gets seven or eight Mondays during warmer weather, prepared items. calls a day to visit office buildings, The Randy Radish goes to one often from a tenant. But Barnhart location where two-thirds of the In Chicago, for example, operators knows he needs permission from employees are vegan. She also who prepare and serve food from the property owner to set up. has standing breakfast gigs with a mobile food vehicle pay a $1,000 Then he must provide a certificate farmers markets on Wednesdays application fee to get a two-year of insurance, obtain a permit, if and Saturdays. “Having these city license. The fee is only $700 for he doesn’t already have one for regular-occurring spots helps those who serve individual food that town or county, and sign any us plan on how much food to portions that are totally enclosed in a necessary legal documents. prepare,” she says.

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five food truck resources Courtesy The Food Truck Handbook: Start, Grow and Succeed in the Mobile Food Business (Wiley, 2012). Author David Weber offers step-by-step advice to help you achieve your mobile food mogul dreams. From concept development to gaining a loyal following to equipment preventative maintenance, this book covers everything you need to know about starting and running a successful food-truck business.

Eat St.: Recipes from the Tastiest, Messiest, and Most Irresistible Food Trucks (Pintail, 2013). Author James Cunningham packs this book with full-color photographs by himself and make money. He and more than 125 recipes from the best food vendors on wheels dishing out great partners with other food trucks curbside eats all over North America. that serve lunch or dinner, and then people can buy desserts from him. Running a Food Truck For Dummies (For Dummies, 2012). Author Richard Myrick provides details needed to help you start He also posts weekly schedules on his your own food-truck business quickly, website and daily alerts on Facebook affordably and successfully. He helps you and Twitter. “Social media plays such find your food niche, follow important rules of conducting business on the road, outfit an important role with food trucks,” your moving kitchen, meet safety and he says. “It gets news out fast and sanitation requirements and more. Barnhart

directly to people, as well as reduces

Gary How to Start a Home-based Food Truck

of advertising costs.” Business (Globe Pequot, 2012). Author Eric Thomas walks you through designing Each day brings a new set of your food truck and identifying your Courtesy market to establishing a business plan and challenges, so you need to be determining the operational concerns of a extremely motivated to make a mobile business. She monitors the weather. “There food-truck business successful. “If are some days when rain is forecast, The Food Truck Marketing Handbook you don’t go out and set up, you (CreateSpace Independent Publishing so we decide not to go out, because don’t make money,” Garza says. “It’s Platform, 2013). Author Andrew we might actually lose money by Moorehouse explains how to implement not like a restaurant that unlocks prepping food, wasting gas driving a social-media marketing plan designed its doors and waits for customers to specifically for gourmet food trucks. to and from a location and not walk in.” having enough people show up,” opposite: Off the Grid works with she says. “Sometimes it’s so hot that Rob Benes, a Chicago-based journalist, food trucks with the simple idea of people don’t want to leave their air- has 11 years of experience writing about grouping vendors together. conditioned offices, too.” chefs, food, wine and spirits for trade, top: Chefs in a food truck meet every educational and consumer publications. customer. bottom: Food trucks are a Because Garza’s Rockstar Bakeshop crowded workplace, as in this Toasty is a dessert truck, it’s hard to set up Cheese truck. www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 33 by degrees apple tarte tatin by degrees Apple Tarte Tatin By John Schopp CEC, CEPC, CCA

his simple, rustic apple tarte Tatin was no addition of Calvados, vinegar, is a favorite of mine. I remember raisins or , which is sometimes T the warm summer day I was first seen in modern interpretations. introduced to it by Charles Semail, chef/ My home in Virginia is rural with an owner of Acajou, Lexington, Ky. I was abundance of apple orchards close an aspiring young novice in the kitchen, by. Whenever I pass an orchard thick and was fortunate enough to land an with fruit bending the branches of John Schopp CEC, CEPC, CCA entry-level position with the French chef is a culinary arts instructor at Virginia Western pruned trees, my mind wanders to my almost 30 years ago. Community College, Roanoke; education days as a young cook, sweating in the and certification chair for American Culinary Federation (ACF) Southwestern Virginia Chef Charles was new to the U.S. and hot kitchen. I remember the magic Chapter; and commercial baking chair, spoke little English. I spoke absolutely of discovery, the zero tolerance for SkillsUSA, Virginia state competition, 2013-15. no French. Somehow, it all managed to anything less than perfection and the work, and over time, a language of food want to impress my mentor. I smile a and passion evolved through the broken big, happy, heartfelt smile. English and butchered French.

I remember this as a magical time Step 1 full of wonderment. The work was Distribute evenly spaced, marble-sized pieces of butter over bottom of 10-inch saute pan. hard, hot, long and demanding, but it was also rewarding. The simplicity of the tarte Tatin stood out, as nothing produced in this kitchen was simple. The ingredients were minimal, and the taste was magnificent.

The history of apple tarte Tatin can be traced back to the 1880s. Its popularity rose to celebrity status when it appeared on the menu of the famed Maxim’s in Paris. The original apple varieties used were King of the Pippins and Calville. The apples were not peeled and still are Photos by John Schopp not in today’s standard preparation. There

34 Sizzle Summer 14 Step 2 Step 5 Step 7 Infuse sugar with half a vanilla bean; Roll chilled pâte brisée into even circle; Allow tart to cool slightly. Shake pan lightly distribute evenly across bottom of saute pan. place atop tarte Tatin. Tuck excess dough to loosen. Place serving platter on top of around edges to form crust. Slightly tighten tart; quickly flip. Jiggle pan to ensure all apples toward center. apples release.

Step 3 Peel, core and halve apples. Arrange neatly, cut-side up, in saute pan.

Step 6 ingredients Vent crust to allow steam to escape. Place 3 oz. butter Tatin in 400°F oven. Bake until crust is Step 4 8 oz. sugar golden-brown. Cook over medium-high heat until sugar ½ vanilla bean and butter form a rich, light-caramel color. 6-7 Granny Smith apples Watch for hot spots. As caramel starts to 1 lb. pâte brisée form, move pan around burner; lightly tilt and swirl to avoid burning caramel. Once equipment desired color is reached, remove from heat. Latex gloves Cutting board Paring knife 10-inch saute pan Scale Measuring cup Rolling pin Serving platter helpful hints ƒƒ Puff pastry scraps make a nice substitute crust for the pâte brisée. ƒƒ As you flip the tart, slightly tilt the front of the pan down to avoid a caramel burn on your wrist. ƒƒ Cook with courage, passion and purpose—the rest will follow.

www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 35 2014 ACF nAtionAL Convention regiStrAtion EMBRACING A SuStAINABlE FutuRE Kansas City Marriott Downtown will host the 2014 aCF national Convention, July 25-29. Whether you are a seasoned professional register online at: www.acfchefs.org Mail or Fax to: chef or a student new to the kitchen, the national convention offers American Culinary Federation something for everyone. Mark your calendars and get ready for an 180 Center Place Way | St. Augustine, FL 32095 amazing convention in Kansas City. (F) 904–825–4758 | (P) 800–624–9458 Kansas City, Mo. i J U ly 25-29, 2014 The hotel is conveniently located in the heart of the business, government and theater districts, in addition to being connected via underground walkway to the Kansas City Convention Center. Known name ______Member iD ______for its cattle industry and legendary barbecue, Kansas City’s culinary Current mailing address ______q home or q work palate has evolved, earning it the title “America’s Next Great Culinary City ______State ______Zip ______Destination” in 2012. Phone number ______q home or q cell Preferred email* ______2014 ACF Kansas City Marriott Downtown employer ______Work phone ______200 W. 12th St. Position/title ______national KanSaS City, MO 64105 *If provided you may receive email notices of products and special offers from ACF sponsors and exhibitors. Convention ReSeRvatiOnS: (877) 303-0104 PhOne: (816) 421-6800 FUll registration Pa CKage includes access to 1-hour seminars and demos, general session, trade show, icebreaker reception, Kansas City Fax: (816) 471-5631 4 breakfasts, 3 lunches, Chef Professionalism Award Dinner and the President’s grand Ball. MentiOn aCF natiOnal COnventiOn When bOOKing MiSSOuRi Member Status Early Rate* Standard Rate Onsite Rate ACF attendees receive a rate of $139 (single or double) per night (plus Culinarian/Professional Culinarian q $675 q $799 q $1,050 July 25-29 tax). This rate is offered July 25-29, based on availability. reservations Junior/Senior/Student q $550 q $650 q $950 must be made by July 2 to receive this discounted rate. You can Allied/Associate/Enthusiast q $800 q $875 q $1,150 also call (877) 303-0104 to make reservations. Mention ACF National Non-ACF Member q $1,050 q $1,225 = ______KanSaS City MaRRiOt dOWntOWn Convention when booking. Spouse | Name:______(same rate as member) = ______Members of ACF Greater Kansas City Chefs Association and the culinary *Early Rate restrictions: must be an ACF member in good standing, register and pay in full by June 6, 2014, the early registration deadline. team at Kansas City Marriott Downtown are ready to make this one unforgettable convention. The national convention’s educational and engagement opportunities will build off the four regional conferences a la C arte registration o P tions (See convention schedule for dates and times for the meal function) and provide a revitalizing experience for members, foodservice professionals, students and competitors, while igniting innovation One-Day Convention Program Badge includes breakfast for that day. note: Program badges may not be purchased with full registration. attendees can bring back to their classroom, employees or kitchen. q DAy 1 q DAy 2 q DAy 3 q DAy 4 # ______x $150 = ______

Meal Tickets icebreaker reception # ______x $75 = ______CoMe early or stay late For the 2014 aCF national Convention in Kansas City Chef Professionalism Award Dinner # ______x $100 = ______President’s grand Ball (includes one drink ticket) # ______x $150 = ______add a little extra adventure to your American Academy of Chefs® Dinner (AAC® members only, maximum of 2 tickets) # ______x $150 = ______stay and visit some of the great local attractions: • Kansas City Zoo t otA l Due for r egistrAtion $ ______• The National WWI Museum • Kansas City Royals refunD PoliCy: request for refund must be made in writing and postmarked no later than 30 days prior to start of event. A $50 processing fee will be deducted from refund amount. • Union Station • Kauffman Center for the PayM ent Made By: Performing Arts q Check q Money order (Make payable to: American Culinary Federation) Credit card (select one) q ViSA q MasterCard q American express q Discover go to visitkc.com for further Credit card # ______expiration date _____ / ______name on card ______information on attractions, activities, dining and everything Signature ______Date _____ / _____ / ______to do in Kansas City.

64 The NaTioNal CuliNary review • May 2014 register online at www.acfchefs.org for additional workshops and a la carte meals. 2014 ACF nAtionAL Convention regiStrAtion

register online at: www.acfchefs.org Mail or Fax to: American Culinary Federation 180 Center Place Way | St. Augustine, FL 32095 (F) 904–825–4758 | (P) 800–624–9458 Kansas City, Mo. i J U ly 25-29, 2014 name ______Member iD ______Current mailing address ______q home or q work City ______State ______Zip ______Phone number ______q home or q cell Preferred email* ______employer ______Work phone ______Position/title ______*If provided you may receive email notices of products and special offers from ACF sponsors and exhibitors.

FUll registration Pa CKage includes access to 1-hour seminars and demos, general session, trade show, icebreaker reception, 4 breakfasts, 3 lunches, Chef Professionalism Award Dinner and the President’s grand Ball.

Member Status Early Rate* Standard Rate Onsite Rate Culinarian/Professional Culinarian q $675 q $799 q $1,050 Junior/Senior/Student q $550 q $650 q $950 Allied/Associate/Enthusiast q $800 q $875 q $1,150 Non-ACF Member q $1,050 q $1,225 = ______Spouse | Name:______(same rate as member) = ______*Early Rate restrictions: must be an ACF member in good standing, register and pay in full by June 6, 2014, the early registration deadline.

a la C arte registration o P tions (See convention schedule for dates and times for the meal function) One-Day Convention Program Badge includes breakfast for that day. note: Program badges may not be purchased with full registration. q DAy 1 q DAy 2 q DAy 3 q DAy 4 # ______x $150 = ______

Meal Tickets icebreaker reception # ______x $75 = ______Chef Professionalism Award Dinner # ______x $100 = ______President’s grand Ball (includes one drink ticket) # ______x $150 = ______American Academy of Chefs® Dinner (AAC® members only, maximum of 2 tickets) # ______x $150 = ______

t otA l Due for r egistrAtion $ ______refunD PoliCy: request for refund must be made in writing and postmarked no later than 30 days prior to start of event. A $50 processing fee will be deducted from refund amount.

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please support these generous sponsors acfchefs.org 63 international flavors kadirli, turkey international flavors

Kadirli, Turkey By Erol Kanmaz, CEC, WCC, culinary instructor, Northwest Culinary Institute, Vancouver, Wash.

importance on a key trade route between the Middle East, Anatolia and Europe.

During its 8,000 years, many civilizations have passed through this land, each leaving many abiding culinary traditions, which you can see today in the cooking methods and techniques used in almost every Turkish home kitchen.

Like all cultures, food was and still is the common factor that brings everybody together, whether it’s a Sunday morning breakfast crowded with many different kinds of homemade foods or a Monday at my grandmother’s house, it was always the have so many memories of my native best and the tastiest. town of Kadirli, Turkey, or ancient I Flaviopolis, which some say dates In Turkey, the native cuisine varies from back to 6000 B.C. It is in the Osmaniye one region to the next, thanks to all Province in the Mediterranean region of the civilizations that left behind their Turkey, located in the Cukurova plain, culinary secrets, which is what makes which is among the most fertile farmland magical. However, in the world. It is also a place of strategic Turkish fare is largely the heritage of www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 39 international flavors kadirli, turkey

ground breadsticks and the Ottoman Empire that ruled a vast Turkish cuisine is largely seasonal. I was beetroot ( drink) area, including the Middle East, North not used to finding all types of fresh By Erol Kanmaz Africa, the and part of the produce every day of the year until I Yield: 6 servings Russian Peninsula from 1299 to1922. came to the U.S., where I feel like I am

ingredients: spoiled, finding everything anytime. 1 medium Turks prefer a simple breakfast of One must wait for the seasons in Turkey, 4 oz. ground veal breast cheese, butter tereyagi( ), olives, eggs, 2 banana peppers and each one features its own array of ½ oz. minced garlic heirloom tomatoes, cucumbers, beautiful fruits, fresh vegetables and 1 oz. minced yellow onion homemade jams and honey—all ½ oz. finely chopped parsley nuts. We had to wait until summer to eat commonly served with Turkish tea. To 1 t. salt the best watermelon and winter before 1 t. black pepper me, the smell of Turkish tea is so strong we could buy turnips and many other 13 oz. all-purpose flour and heavenly. It is usually served in 3 T. water vegetables. Looking back, I think that ½ oz. yeast small Turkish tea glasses. this has taught me patience and to enjoy 1 egg, to brush on bread each season and the offerings of Kadirli, ¼ cup strained yogurt Homemade food is still preferred by ¼ cup mineral water where eating is somewhat ceremonial. 2 T. pickled beets most Turkish people, though the fast- paced 21st century, with both parents preparation: Fresh or dried spices and herbs are 1. Peel, seed and quarter tomato. working, is pushing the new generation widely used in every part of Turkey. Of 2. In food processor or blender, mix ground to eat out. I was lucky that my mother veal, tomato, banana peppers, garlic, course, fresh is preferred, while dried onion, parsley, salt and black pepper. never had a job outside the home and herbs are made in homes. Popular 3. Combine flour, water and yeast; let estr had the time to cook all day. I never 15 minutes. fresh herbs are parsley, mint, green 4. When yeast has activated, roll dough out missed any meal she prepared when I onion, green garlic, arugula (roka), on well-floured surface. Cut in large circles. was growing up. dill, watercress, rosemary and thyme. 5. Place filling in thin line in center of each dough circle. Roll dough circles to about Nearly every home has a little place to Even with the rise of many foreign size and shape of a breadstick. Cut into grow herbs, which are picked fresh for desired breadstick lengths. fast-food chains, Turkish people still 6. Brush breadsticks with egg; bake at the next meal. I don’t know if it gets any rely primarily on the rich, extensive 350°F for 12 minutes. fresher than that. 7. In separate bowl, prepare yogurt drink dishes of their national native cuisine. by whisking together strained yogurt and mineral water. Season with salt, to taste. Among the most popular are kofte Pork plays no role in the cuisine, 8. Puree pickled beets in food processor. (meatballs); doner (lamb grilled as Turkey is Islamic. Because the 9. Whisk puree into yogurt drink to reach on a vertical spit); kokorec (charcoal- country is surrounded by the Aegean, desired color and consistency. grilled lamb intestines), which is my Mediterranean and Black seas, For service: Serve yogurt drink cold in shot glasses. Cut breadsticks diagonally absolute favorite dish; börek (stuffed seafood is plentiful. Favorite types of and place on top of each shot glass. phyllo dough pastries); and gözleme seafood include grouper, sea bass, sea

Note: The most flavorful ayran drink is (a savory pastry dish). All these are bream, spiny lobster, tuna, anchovies, made with sheep’s milk yogurt. common street foods sold in nearly all mackerel, calamari, red mullets, regions. There are yet many regional mussels and many other kinds not street foods. found in other areas of the world.

40 Sizzle Summer 14 stuffed mussels with saffron By Erol Kanmaz

Yield: 6 servings

ingredients: 1 pinch saffron ½ cup hot water ½ cup oil 1 T. pine nuts 2 medium onions, finely chopped 1 cup rice, soaked, rinsed 4 T. currants, soaked, rinsed Salt, to taste 1 T. white sugar 1 T. black pepper 1 T. allspice 1 T. cinnamon ¼ bunch fresh dill, finely chopped ¼ bunch mint, finely chopped ¼ bunch flat leaf parsley, finely chopped 24 medium-sized mussels, scrubbed, rinsed, trimmed 1 cup water 2 lemons, cut in wedges

preparation: 1. Soak saffron in hot water for 10-15 minutes. Reserve water. 2. Heat in large, wide saucepan. Saute pine nuts until golden-brown; add Yogurt is important in Turkish legs of goats or sheep). These soups are onions to caramelize. Add rice; continue cuisine, and the best yogurt is made so popular that many small restaurants to saute. 3. After 6-7 minutes, add, in order, currants, in Kadirli. Most restaurants in the specialize in them. When I go to these salt, sugar and saffron-infused water. big cities advertise their yogurt, such restaurants, I feel like I am in heaven or Simmer until rice absorbs liquid. as “Made in Kadirli.” The appeal of like a kid in a candy store, and I don’t 4. Remove from heat. Add black pepper, allspice, cinnamon, dill, mint and parsley. Kadirli yogurt must partially lie in want to leave. Stir; allow to stand until all flavors blended. the old-fashioned recipes used by our 5. Stuff mussels with filling. In the end, it seems it would take more 6. Layer stuffed mussels in large saucepan; grandmothers and their grandmothers add water. Weigh down mussels by than one lifetime to taste and experience for the past 7,000 years. placing heatproof plate on top. Simmer all that Turkish cuisine has to offer. on low heat 20-25 minutes. 7. Once stuffed mussels have cooled, Turks love their soups. soup and previous page: The 14th century Maiden's remove from pan. Arrange on serving dish. Serve with lemon wedges. yogurt, and wheat soup called Tower in corbasi are the most popular among the clockwise from top left: 1. Kanmaz family Note: Stuffed mussels are popular in Turkey, thousands of types. There are also such meal 2. The local fish market in Kadirli yet some cities forbid selling mussels. The reason is unclear. delicacies as iskembe () and 3. Erol Kanmaz skins a sheep 4. Outdoor Turkish teapot paca corbasi (made from the head and www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 41 the interview gayle pirie the interview

Gayle Pirie By Ethel Hammer

Francisco, 1986-93; co-principal with “Always try to live and work in places John Clark, International Restaurant with good energy,” she says. Consultants, USA, Asia and Canada, 1993-2000; special events manager, As we spoke, she was looking out her assistant to Alice Waters and downstairs window, eyeing a beautiful yellow bloom chef, Chez Panisse, San Francisco, 1994-97; co-executive chef/co-proprietor called samphire grass. “Samphire grass with John Clark of four San Francisco could be a great garnish for a poached establishments: Foreign Cinema, fish or part of a great salad. Right 2001-present; Laszlo, 2003-present; Show Dogs, 2009–present; Machine now, Berkeley is alive and yellow with Coffee, Machine Deli, 2012-present. samphire grass.”

choice achievements/ Foreign Cinema, one of the restaurants awards she co-directs and co-chefs with her Foreign Cinema ranked among “The life partner John Clark, is about to Bay Area’s Top 100 Restaurants” by the San Francisco Chronicle, 2000-13; co- turn 15 years old, and she declares it author with John Clark of Country Egg, “a great restaurant with great bones, City Egg (Artisan, 2000) and Bride & a loving staff and loving operators born Groom Cookbook (Bonnier Books, 2006); who reinvent it every day, and we San Francisco nominated for Best Chef: Pacific, James Beard Foundation, 2008, 2009; “Master never rest on any laurels.” But the resides Torch Recipient” from Judy Rodgers, James restaurant wasn’t always so elegant. Berkeley, Calif. Beard Foundation, 2010; Foreign Cinema “When we started, it was a cataclysm nominated “Outstanding Restaurant,” James of corruption—a nubile infant giddy beginnings Beard Foundation, 2012, 2013, 2014. Graduated with a bachelor of arts degree in with arrogance. Bills weren’t being art history, San Francisco State University, paid. There were loaded cooks, loaded 1991; artist/oil painter, San Francisco, ayle Pirie believes that great 1983-86; prep cook, Vicolo Pizza, San waitstaff, non-present management. food has a tremendous life force Francisco, 1984-86; prep and line cook, We decided to fix it, and were prepared Café Espirit, San Francisco, 1986. G and that bad energy can be for World War III.” trapped in places and in people, while career path highlights Line cook, then co-chef de cuisine with beauty and inspiration can be found Now that the war is over, with cycles of partner John Clark, Zuni Café, San everywhere, even in the smallest things. boom/bust de rigueur, the restaurant,

42 Sizzle Summer 14 with its 131 employees, is easier for believe she liked me because I was an Pirie to run than raising her two kids. artist and made her laugh. She knew She admits that children can divert I wanted to please and that I got her you from your business goals, and vision.” Pirie considers Rodgers a she often wrestles with the realities groundbreaking visionary who brought of other extremely successful chefs urban rusticity into the American who don’t have children. “Still, it’s mainstream. “Her rustic, pure, über- gratifying to see little people grow. clean vision is going to be missed.” And you really do want to make better people for the planet.” Pirie also assisted Alice Waters, for whom she organized off-site special A former painter, she succeeded at events, cooked at Chez Panisse, cooking because, as she puts it, cooking and helped write, develop and test has “an elegance and ease.” Pirie met cookbook recipes. “Alice has an Clark while working at a local San intoxicating palate and vision. She Francisco restaurant where she was makes you want to participate in the salad cook, he, the pizza chef. “It the quest for perfection. I would do was definitely interest at first sight. But it took us 60-75 days to act on our anything for her.” instinct.” So why aren’t they married Having integrated the purity and after 27 years with two kids? “People passion of these mentors, with can’t figure it out, but if you’re not influence from visual artists, left: Oysters married, you can’t get divorced,” she right: Foreign Cinema entrance filmmakers and other female chefs, says with a laugh. bottom:Balsamic egg with Pirie shares her tenuous beginnings, potato-roasted garlic , sliced She was mentored for seven years at passionate inspiration and bounding prosciutto and roasted chicories Zuni Café by the late Judy Rodgers. “I life force. Photos courtesy of Foreign Cinema www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 43 the interview gayle pirie

was your painting like you? gp: It was rudimentary studio stuff with a strong vision of isolated, solitary landscapes filled with Western light. I love Edward Hopper and Vermeer. My paintings are about reductive light, stucco houses, crazy topiaries and cypresses—everything devoid of humans. I don’t paint now, but my paintings are in my mind and have evolved into full landscapes that are portals into places where I want to escape—places where I want to live and dwell. It’s a little like cheffing in that chefs create menus with food that they want to eat. And each plate of food is a composition on a plate, natural and strong. what kind of a kid were you? give us a picture of your eating gp: I was a shy, extremely self- habits at your most extravagant. conscious kid raised by a single mom gp: I drink alcohol every day and eat in San Francisco. I had friends, mostly things like duck and duck cracklings. singular relationships, but now I’m You won’t find me at Taco Bell, but I mainly focused on my kids. But my eat my fair share of fatty foods. But I shyness disappeared with growing up won’t touch strange organs like duck and having some of life’s mysteries tongues. And lizard, which we had solved. Meeting my dad at age 17 was in Hong Kong, is way too oily. John dishes with foreign a huge life mystery solved. In fact, is more adventuresome and loves influences served at he now works in the restaurant as a Foreign Cinema sweetbreads done in a light, thoughtful, maître d’, a social, friendly, gregarious, ƒƒ Spain: seafood fideus pure preparation. We both absolutely with Pacific cod, Eastern scallops salesman/photographer type. So that despise overly reduced sticky sauces. and a housemade merguez part of my life was no longer a mystery. We don’t do that. sausage in a sofrito with a saffron broth, onions, garlic and tomato In school I was incredibly insecure what kind of food do you like? infusing the dish about math, equally weak in science gp: Our signature food at Foreign ƒƒ North Africa: A mixed grill with Moroccan spiced quail, lamb and better at English and art. In high Cinema is a chop or steak in a beautiful sirloin, duck breast or leg with a school I really got into pursuing art, finished stock that has a serious Moroccan lime spice blend and and suddenly I said to myself, “Hey. component of acidulation, a light jus a watercress sauce with green You’re good at something.” So, I said that gives tenacity without the bite of beans and Meyer lemon aioli ƒƒ Persia: Freshly cracked crab to myself, “Oh, I can be an artist.” I something like kimchi or sauerkraut. For soufflé with Persian green chilies, taught myself how to draw fashion example, we get gorgeous duck breasts coconut milk, scallion and a designs and plastered my room from 35-50 miles north. After they are whole egg, inspired by cookbook with pictures from Vogue. I pursued smoked or maybe lightly cured, we finish author and anthropologist painting for two years at junior college, them with a caramel orange duck jus, Niloufer King, an important muse at the restaurant and that was hugely instructive in almost a fragrance that finishes the plate propelling me into the world on some and just blows you away. I also love kind of a trajectory. duck liver pâté and pork rillettes.

44 Sizzle Summer 14 There is a major spice trail at Foreign Cinema. We feature cardamom fried chicken. We also do quail in ras el hanout—a Moroccan spice blend that has 22 or 23 components—and a four-peppercorn duck breast. Our beef has a signature rub with cocoa nibs and ajwain, an Indian Asian spice like cardamom pod that is earthy and nutty.

I’m personally interested in sustaining and nurturing people, not in entertaining them. I crave food with purity of flavor and deliciousness, simplicity and sex appeal. But simplicity is hard—a discipline we all try to master. An example would be perfectly pan-fried oysters dusted with cornmeal, nestled in warm watercress and savoy spinach, with an essential piece of thinly sliced guy, and you find out that everyone is pancetta and lemon aioli. And for crazy and everything is upside-down. the surprise, a pinch of sumac or As I always say to my staff, “Don’t something to make it pop. get off the boat!” It’s too scary off the boat. I am interested in film director considering your restaurant Roman Polanski, who is so reductive named Foreign Cinema, where you and frightening. And I love the film also show films, tell us about your “Basquiat” about artist Julian Schnabel romance with movies. in which Andy Warhol is played by gp: I went to the movies to survive David Bowie. I’m not as drawn to best advice to as a kid. The theater had “sense- movies about food, like “Babette’s culinary students around sound,” and I saw things like Feast.” We make food, and we show Get a job in a good restaurant, stay “Towering Inferno,” “Earthquake” and there and learn as much as possible. movies selected by our in-house film “Apocalypse Now,” produced by Francis Become a line cook warrior, then try to curator. And we have a gallery on-site, get beyond the line and do whatever Ford Coppola, a local filmmaker. The but there is no thread weaving these you can to learn about the challenges first time he came into the restaurant, I three together. John and I went to the and finesse of management. It’s too totally put my foot in my mouth. We had movies once last year to see “Blue easy to stay an employee your whole life, just finished showing “Koyaanisqatsi,” bitching and moaning. Jasmine.” With two kids, you wind up which means “unbalanced life” in seeing children’s films. I hate being the Hopi language, a totally visual asked to write about the relationship opposite top: Foreign Cinema's film with music by Philip Glass, and between movies and food. We are wide-open feel with tall windows I told Coppola that I use the term so not about that, though we did do a opposite bottom: Foreign Cinema “koyaanisqatsi” when things are upside- Mexican chocolate after-dinner martini movie showing on the patio down in the restaurant. He grew quiet. named “Water for Chocolate,” which is a top: Sesame fried chicken with He was not laughing. I asked him, “Do smashed shelling beans, roasted beautiful way to end a meal. you know that film?” He looked at me jalapeno, raw kale quelites and and said, “Yes, I produced it.” Ethel Hammer is a writer, lecturer and avocado crema cartoonist based in Chicago. bottom: Caramel pecan sticky bun I love the movie “Heart of Darkness” in which there is a search to find this crazy www.acfchefs.org www.sizzle-digital.com 45 the quiz summer 2014 Get the answers Click here to find out the correct the quiz answers.

Did you read all the articles in this issue? Take the Sizzle Quiz to test your knowledge. 6 28 42

1. Through his internship, what venue did Matt 6. According to David Falk, you should view your 11. The popularity of apple tarte Tatin rose to Mornan find to be an unusual, yet satisfying, early career as what? celebrity status when it appeared on the menu of career option for a culinary graduate? a. A time to look for a sous-chef position a famous restaurant in what city? a. Convenience store b. A season of sacrifice a. Milan b. Grocery store c. The time to find a mentor b. Paris c. Drugstore d. The time to prove what you know c. Vienna d. Commissary d. Rome 7. Snacks represent one in how many eating 2. Rated on a challenge scale, how does occasions in the U.S.? 12. When flipping a hot apple tarte Tatin to ballontine coq au vin rank? a. Two remove it from the pan, how can you avoid a. Easy b. Three burning your wrist? b. Average c. Five a. Slightly tilt the front of the pan down c. Hard d. Eight b. Tap the bottom of the pan d. Nearly impossible c. Rest the pan in an inch of cold water first 8. According to The NPD Group, what is the No. d. Wait until the pan cools naturally 3. What is one of the challenges when sauteing 1 snack food in the U.S.? vegetables while making duxelle? a. Potato chips 13. Turkish cuisine is largely the heritage of what a. Getting the seasonings right b. Ice cream empire? b. The difficulty of cleaning vegetables c. Cookies a. Great Timur c. Dealing with vegetable shrinkage d. Fruit b. European Hun d. Accounting for the amount of water that c. Hazar comes out of vegetables 9. In 2008, Roy Choi became one of the pioneers d. Ottoman in today’s gourmet food truck movement when he 4. What is a key ingredient in red-eye gravy? opened Kogi BBQ food truck in what city? 14. What protein plays no role in Turkish cuisine? a. Kidney beans a. Portland, Ore. a. Pork b. Coffee b. Richmond, Va. b. Chicken c. Cayenne pepper c. Los Angeles c. Beef d. Cinnamon d. Philadelphia d. Lamb

5. According to Rick Tramonto, what is one skill 10. True or false: License fees are different for 15. Gayle Pirie, co-executive chef/co-proprietor many chefs skip over? food trucks that cook onboard than for those that of Foreign Cinema, San Francisco, earned a a. Pastry serve prepared items. bachelor of arts degree in what? b. Saucier a. True a. Art history c. Wine pairing b. False b. Culinary management d. Butchery c. Culinary arts d. Marketing Last Bite los angeles last bite Los Angeles Wondering where to eat in Los Angeles? Who better to ask than some of the city’s most respected chefs. Check out their dining suggestions. sushi vietnamese bold thai mediterranean cravings noodles Jitlada Restaurant Bäco Mercat Sushi Gen Viet Bar 5233 ½ W. Sunset Blvd. 408 S. Main St. 422 E. 2nd St. 3133 Glendale Blvd. (323) 667-9809 (213) 687-8808 (213) 617-0552 (323) 906-1575 jitladala.com bacomercat.com vietnoodlebar.la Tues.-Sun.: 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Mon.-Thu.:11:30 a.m.-2:30 sushigen.org 5-10:30 p.m. p.m.; 5:30-11p.m. Mon.-Sun.: 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Fri.: 11:15 a.m.-2 p.m.; Appetizers: $4.95-$12.95 Fri.-Sat.: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5:30-9:45 p.m. Salads: $8.75 5:30 p.m.-midnight Soups: $8.95-$14.95 Sat.: 5-9:45 p.m. Sandwiches: $7.95 Sun.: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; Main course: $9.95 Dinner combos: $20-$39 Noodle dishes: $9.95 5-10 p.m. Sashimi dinner combos: The menu is huge and Sandwiches: $9-$14 $15-$35 I love going to this has every Thai dish Flatbread: $12-$16 great hidden gem in you can imagine. The Vegetables: $9-$14 I love this place and Atwater Village for flavors are intense crave it all the time. its jackfruit bowls, and bold. It’s difficult Chef Josef Centeno I lean toward the spring rolls and fresh to find a place has an interesting sashimi lunch special house-made soy milk. that compares. My point of view for $15 because it’s –Tal Ronnen, chef/owner, favorite dishes are with his Western quick. If I have time, Crossroads the spicy Crying Tiger and Eastern I will sit at the sushi and Morning Glory. Mediterranean bar and let the chef –Govind Armstrong, influences. It’s order for me. executive chef, Willie Jane such a great –Ricardo Zarate, and Post & Beam neighborhood spot. executive chef, Picca, Mo-chica and Paiche˜ –Joachim Splichal, chef/founder, Patina Restaurant Group

P h p ot m o b Stu y Vanessa

P h ls o e to ni b Da y Elizabeth

P h e o bl to o by Lauren N

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