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APRIL 2007 NO. 139 The ’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore The Reappearing The Alfred Holt’s blue smoke-stacks down the stream, The fair Loanda with her bows a-cream… These splendid ships, each with her grace, her glory, Wreck Her memory of old song or comrade’s story… They mark our passage as a race of men — Earth will not see such ships as those again — excerpted from “Ships” by John Masefield

See story on page 19ge DUNCAN RICHARDSON APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

JOHNSON Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado /Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Ad Sales & Distribution - Meriea Steven Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews...... 40 - 41 Cooking with Cruisers...... 46 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 452-8490, Mob: (758) 713 4205 [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 Boat Fridge Makeover Cold enough for ya? ...... 44 C’était Délicieux! Dining ashore in French...... 47 The Crime Scene Are we making progress?...... 31 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS www.caribbeancompass.com APRIL 2007 • NUMBER 139 APRIL 2007 • NUMBER is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] : Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] : Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, , Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 6 Regatta News ...... 7 Meridian Passage ...... 7 Destinations ...... 16 Different Boats ...... 26 All Ashore...... 18 Product Postings...... 43 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Hurricane Hideaways Cruisers love Luperon ...... 14 Surprise Party! party, that is ...... 28 Regattas in Martinique Carnival and Schoelcher ...... 12 ROTTEVEEL The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s goes to Compass —Continued on next page rightly) be swayed by the “island time” theory and would duly be proved, well, wrong! In St. Lucia’s seaside vil- lage of Gros Ilet, a beauti- fication project is under- way and the pride of place is the new jetty, which, by the time this issue of press, will be finished and the cricket faithful well- served. It’s intended that the cruise liners carrying fans to the Cricket World Cup matches being held in St. Lucia will be able to anchor as usual off near- by Pigeon Island, and then transfer passengers directly to the fishing vil- lage via tenders. They’ll from there to near- on-line subscribers! Join our growing list of & Updates For full details visit: NOW AVAILABLE! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95

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New Jetty at Gros Islet, St. Lucia said that a 180-foot-long and 80-foot wide con- Max Krowdrah reports: If anyone be constructed in less than a month, you’d (quite crete and wooden jetty could Use of 121.5/243 MHz EPIRBs Banned Use of 121.5/243 as of February 121.5/243 MHz frequencies will be terminated on Satellite reception S devices the use of Class A, B, and US Coast Guard has banned 1st 2009, so the This ban is not applicable to 121.5 MHz man-overboard effective January 1st 2007. station on board your boat, not the satellite system. products which notify the base fact that 49 out of 50 alerts are false on 121.5 MHz equip- This action is based on the which requires registration at ment. Use your 406 MHz beacon, beaconregistration.noaa.gov. Jet-Ski Operators Support Security Measures For CWC matches has resulted in a Keats Compton reports: The hosting of Cricket World Cup the Beausejour cricket number of security measures being introduced around to affect jet-ski operators. ground in St. Lucia. Ordinarily, this would not be expected fans has resulted in the intro- However, the use of cruise ships to house multitudes of be anchored just offshore. duction of an exclusion zone around the ships which will April 24 to 26, when the semi- Operators agreed to suspend all activity during the period at a recent meeting finals will be played. The need for the suspension was explained attended by Ports & Marine convened by the St. Lucia Air & Seaports Authority (SLASPA), of St. Lucia (MIASL). Police, the Ministry of Tourism, and the Marine Industries Association by the trade, and The discussions also covered the bad press currently received image of their business. The ways in which the operators could work to improve the period, but accepted that operators noted the impact on their revenue during the the suspension was necessary; they also accepted the need for regulation of the use of small craft of every description; SLASPA announced its intention to demar- cate the areas to be allocated to bathers, and the jet-ski access to and from the by Beausejour Stadium, circumnavigating the highway congestion which the by Beausejour Stadium, circumnavigating the highway Cricket World Cup will surely bring. Marenco Ltd. for the work, Contractors CO Williams sub-contracted Barbados firm have been burning the and work they surely have — the ten or so people involved be a little over the three midnight oil. Project Manager Dave Seale said: “We might fans won’t have to weeks previously planned, but rest assured cruiseship cricket worry over wet feet!” it could well be the lifeblood The jetty is more than merely a one-off for cricket fans; to boost a languishing of the neglected waterfront village which needs tourism Street, building a bridge over economy. Work has also started on resurfacing Beach and lighting. the small river to Pigeon Island, and an increase in security not Prime Minister) Dave The last word belongs to PM (that’s Project Manager and future.” Seale: “It’s not a temporary structure — it’s part of the Now that’s what we like to hear! Info APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 BEQUIA BEACHFRONTVILLAS Come inandseeusforallyour www.bequiabeachfrontvillas.com [email protected] 8-5-43or284-495-4467800-367-8455(waitforring) 784-457-3423 7HYBUILDONEMORE TOSERVEYOURNEEDS YACHTCARRIERSATYOURDISPOSAL )*-5)$%.s3/54(!-04/.s')"2!,4!2s-!,,/2#!s&/24,!5$%2$!,% SAILS &CANVASSAILS BIMINI &DODGER e-mail: [email protected]/68 7ORLDWIDETAILORMADESERVICE Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) including GRENADINES HEADOFFICETEL sUSAREPRESENTATIVETEL  ZBDIU!USBOTQPSU!PWFS!TFWFO!TFBT (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) FAST RELIABLEANDSAFE CUSTOM-MADE BEQUIA Located oppositeG.Y.E. frames atcompetitiveprices WWWSEVENSTARNL SAILS &CANVAS 4ORTOLA"6) 'IBRALTAR-ALLORCA,A3PEZIA stainless steel 4ORTOLA"6) 3OUTHAMPTON.ETHERLANDS 4ORTOLA"6) &ORT,AUDERDALE.EWPORT mile longbeach. views juststepsdownthe and spectacularpanoramic high beamedceilings, featuring verylargerooms, are beautifullyappointed, Friendship BayBeach located directlyon 1-4 bedroomvillas These luxurious Bequia -Triple Diamonds. approved propertyon Design &theonlyAAA Featured Architectural a FortRecoveryResort needs  SAILINGSCHEDULE FORTHE#ARIBBEAN MAY MAY s#!2)""%!. utes wassetin1998bytheBritish The previouspowerboatcircumnavigationrecordof74days,20hoursand58min- refill thetanksalongway. to havethespecialbio-dieselfuel(madefromanimalorvegetablefats)ready going throughboththePanamaandSuezCanals.Priorarrangementsweremade Refueling wouldhavebeenmadein12portsalongtheroute,whichincluded litres ofbio-diesel. tion. Theboathasamaximumspeedof45knotswiththefueltanksholding10,000 Captain Bethuneandcrewoffourwereaimingat65daysforthecircumnaviga- attempt afterarrivalinPanama. Organisers arenowconsidering“anumberofoptions”includingabandoningthe peeling offandtheleadingedgeofonebladeiscomingtobits”. over tolookforthereasonandfound“allbladeshavesectionswherecarbonis engineer tocutbackonrevs.Accordingthe progress onitswaytothefirstrefuelingstopinPanamawhenvibrationsforced Thompson, atmidday,March10th,theUS$1.2millionboatmadesomegood Seen offbyBarbados’MinisterofEnergyandtheEnvironment,Hon.Elizabeth leaving thestartinglineoffBarbados.Thepropsarealsomadeofcarbonfibre. his carbonfiber/kevlar78-foottrimaran circumnavigation speedrecordwasinjeopardyuptopresstimewhenthepropson Norman Fariareports:NewZealanderPeteBethune’sattempttobreakthepowerboat Powerboat RecordinDoubt to workwithallparties,includinglawenforcementagencies,arrestthistrend. ment threateningthepersonalsafetyofotherusersourcoastalwaters.Wecontinue The MIASLhasreceivedseveralreportsofjet-skis,powerboats,andinstancesharass- regulatory informationfortheirconsideration. obligations undertherelevantlegislation,plusprovidingUSCoastguardsafetyand …beach atRodneyBay;MIASLofferedtoassisttheoperatorsinformusersoftheir frompreviouspage —Continued Applied PropertiesLtd, beginsconstruction. Smith saidstrongenvironmental protectionswillbeinplacebefore thedeveloper, wage jobsanddistort thelocalhousingmarket. and mangroveforests. Otherswereconcernedtheprojectwould createonlylow- would damageimportant marinebreedinggroundsoffanisland famedforitsreefs Department, biologistssaidpollutionand habitatdestructioncausedbytheresort In adocumentarycommissionedbythe British VirginIslandsConservation&Fisheries our tourismindustryforthefuture,”Smith said. — butwemustalsothinkaboutcreating jobs,growingoureconomyandsecuring hole golfcoursedesignedbyJackNicklaus. “Yes,wemustprotectourenvironment the US$80millionproject,whichwillcover mostofBeefIslandandincludesan18- According towww.businessweek.com,Chief MinisterOrlandoSmithchampioned after monthsofdebateintheBritishCaribbean territoryofsome22,000people. Country ClubResort,aroughly650-acre project,receivedgovernmentapproval talists whowanttheareatoremainpristine. DevelopersoftheBeefIslandGolf& and golfcourseonalargelyuninhabited island,overoppositionfromenvironmen- The BritishVirginIslandsgovernmenthasapprovedconstructionofanupscaleresort BVI ApprovesBeefIslandResort Technologies Maritimes,(596.696)98.96.98,[email protected]. For moreinformationcontactMarieFradon-Rubel,StéCaribéennedeSécurité& the “PiratesofCaribbean”movies. Caribbean havealsobeeninvited,asalltheshipswhichtakenpartin ous Frenchislands.TraditionalsailingcraftfromotherislandsintheEastern at St.Pierre,Martinique.Yoles,gommiersandsaintoisesareexpectedfromthevari- A gatheringoftraditionalislandsailingvesselsisbeingplannedforMay7thand8th Traditional CrafttoGatheratSt.Pierre for the2008runningofInternationalRolexRegatta. The winnersreceivefreeaccommodationsatthepopularFrenchman’sReefHotel awarded totheboatandcrewthathastraveledfarthestraceinevent. Rolex Regattathisyear,”saidSweeney,explainingthatthenewGovernor’sCup is “It wasespeciallyworththeeffortforEuropeanboatstogetInternational must havethedocumentationsayingthatyou’vebeencleared. US VirginIslandsoreventore-enteratSt.Johnaboardtheprivatevessel—butyou mercial ferry,theCustomsofficewillstampyourpassportandallowyoutoenter the the 20-minuteferryridetoSt.JohnCustomsOffice.Sinceyoucamebycom- Virgin Islands,”saidInternationalRolexRegattaCo-ChairJohnSweeney,“andtake “The solutionforthosewithoutvisasistore-routeWestEnd,Tortola,intheBritish will beturnedaway. ceed toSt.Thomas.Butnow,ifanon-UScrewmemberiswithoutvisa,heorshe crew tostopatCruzBayinSt.John,USVI,checkCustomsthere,andthenpro- to 25inSt.Thomas.Thenormalprocedurepreviouslyhadbeenfortheboatandits delivered bynon-UScitizenstotheInternationalRolexRegatta,whichranMarch23 The newvisarequirementwasexpectedtocauseinconveniencesforboatsbeing previously requiredpassportwillstillsuffice. you comebywayofacommercialvessel—forexample,planeorferrythe vessel —forexampleaprivatesailboatisthatheorshemusthavevisa.Butif citizens wantingtogainentrytheUSVirginIslandsbywayofanon-commercial the USVirginIslands.Anothernew,thoughless-publicized,requirementfornon-US Homeland Securitythatnon-USCitizensmusthavevalidpassportstogainentry Barby MacGowanreports:Bynow,everyoneknowsthenewrequirementby Non-US YachtCrewNeedVisasforUSVI Cable &Wireless Earthrace Earthrace started todisintegrate16hoursafter team. —Continued onnextpage —Continued website, adiverwent APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 are now available! On- Caribbean Compass , is the national bird of Grenada. Critics say that if , is the national bird of Grenada. we welcome aboard new advertisers Benhanzin Leptotila wellsi Compass On-Line Subscriptions Now Available! On-Line Subscriptions Now Great news — on-line subscriptions to Great news — on-line subscriptions page 32; Entertainment of Antigua, page 54; Jack’s Bar of Bequia, Good to have you with us! and Yachtbuddy on-line yachting community, page 27. tion of Grenada Doves on earth. on earth. Doves of Grenada tion wild to conserving group dedicated a Bird Conservancy, to the American According the (www.abcbirds.org), the Americas throughout their habitats birds and Park National the Mount Hartman de-gazette intends to of Grenada Government a Resort, including new Four Seasons room for a to make the entire acreage and sell ABC states, “Mount release from villas. A press of luxury and hundreds golf course Dove, which is for the Grenada Park is the world’s last stronghold Hartman National individuals. of no more than 100 extinction, with a total population on the verge of Seasons Resort Grenada. The current Four on only a small portion of The dove occurs Dove the remaining core Grenada encroach upon and degrade proposal would that greatly impact report issued a cursory environmental habitat. The developer to the dove’s now proposed, would do damage the resort, as it is understates the the Grenada means for protection of and provides no effective survival prospects, Dove’s habitat.” and mercy of Four Seasons Hotels Grenada Dove… is at the “The fate of the “Four Program Director of ABC. Dr. Paul Salaman, International Resorts,” said pull out of this deal or face the dubious distinction of Seasons should immediately of a wonderful and emblematic bird species.” directly causing the extinction The Grenada Dove, of this resort would probably cause the extinction developed as currently planned, is no other remaining area of undeveloped dry for- the Grenada Dove, since there size anywhere on the island. est habitat of comparable Carriacou Kids Fund if a reminder to all yachts passing through Tyrrel Bay: Melodye Pompa reports: Just Regatta Festival and Carriacou Children’s you can’t be here for the Carriacou activities in August, you can drop off contribu- Educational Fund (CCEF) fund-raising Yacht Club. We can use “treasures of the bilge” tions for CCEF at the Carriacou as auction, handmade crafts, and clean used clothing, and household items for the as permanent markers, poster and construction paper, well as school supplies such (backpack style), crayons, pencils, erasers, pens, rulers, coloring books, book-bags notebooks, etcetera, [email protected]. For more information contact Compass issue, every page, with all line subscribers will be able to read each entire monthly at home, at work (hey, articles, photos, and advertisements including the classifieds, and printable, too, for it’s research!) or while traveling. Every page is downloadable family. And best of all, no those articles you want to file or share with friends and waiting for the postman to arrive! For more details visit us at www.caribbeancompass.com. Welcome Aboard! In this issue of

WILFRED DEDERER Development versus Doves? of a Four Seasons resort Protests are being made that the planned development the last viable popula- overlooking Mount Hartman Bay in Grenada is threatening type which became the prototype for the sprit-rigged fishing boats such as those type which became the prototype Bequia Easter Regatta. While in the French and some that compete annually in the canoe became the favored craft for coastwise trans- other islands the dugout sailing followed the swift and seaworthy pattern that port and fishing, Bequia’s boatbuilders England whaleboats in the 19th century. was brought to Bequia by New preservation project has come entirely from gen- The financing of this indigenous-boat now about half-finished and it is hoped to have it com- erous donors. The building is year, but more funds are needed. The Bequia Heritage pleted by November of this persons to help keep this project on stream. You can Foundation is urging interested Foundation, PO Box 191, Bequia, St. Vincent & the post a donation to Bequia Heritage one of the following trustees: Owen Belmar at Le Petit Grenadines, or drop it off with Fresh Foods; or Pat Mitchell at the Gingerbread Hotel. An Jardin Restaurant or at Doris is EC$200; any annual membership in the foundation is EC$25 and life membership history. amount is welcome to help Bequia preserve its boatbuilding the road up the hill before You can visit the site overlooking Friendship Bay by taking lower road towards St. Hillaire you enter Friendship Bay Hotel and then following the point. There’s a beautiful view down the Grenadines. For more information phone Pat Mitchell at (784) 458-3800 or e-mail [email protected]. —Continued page from previous Whaleboats Save the display to house and a building begun erecting Foundation has Heritage The Bequia whaleboat the double-ended in particular historic boats, of that island’s examples APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 Yachtspeople areremindedthattheCarenageisan George’s shoppingexperience. Carenage andgetatasteoftheauthenticSt. toric SendallTunneloroverscenicYoungStreettothe urged toescapetheterminal,walkthroughhis- are missinganopportunity.Cruiseshippassengers shopping mallwithitsmultinationalduty-freeofferings farther thanthecruiseshipterminal’sair-conditioned Observers inGrenadasaythatvisitorswhoneverget many uniqueshopsandrestaurants. public buildingssuchasthelibraryandmuseum, include colonial-eranutmegandlumberwarehouses, Georgian architectureintheCaribbean.These perhaps thebestpreservedcollectionofexamples The placidwatersoftheCarenagearesurroundedby toric centerofcommerceinanewway. Carenage BusinessAssociationtopromotetheirhis- Carenage sideoftownhavebandedtogetherinthe nesspeople andprofessionalsonthepicturesque the townofSt.George’s,Grenada,agroupbusi- that “captures”passengersontheEsplanadesideof Faced withcompetitionfromanewcruiseshipberth New LifeforGrenada’sHistoricCarenage

BRIEFS BUSINESS JEFF FISHER JEFF all systems.Andrewhasconstantlyupgradedhisknowl- extensive computerizationandcomputerguidanceof with providingservicetohighlycomplexyachts huge. TodayAndrewandhiscompanyarechallenged and aswitchpanelwithmorethan20switcheswas the islandwasrelativelylow.A50-footyachtlarge Arcade in1986,thedemandfortechnicalserviceson When AndrewboughtthecompanyinSpeetjens International RaceOfficer. Sint Maartentoachievetheelitecertificationasan race officerandinbecomingthefirstpersoneveron events throughendlesshoursofvoluntaryserviceasa has alsocontributedtotheisland’smanysailing In additiontohisprofessionalcontribution,Andrew contribution tothemarineindustryofSintMaarten. sequence hasmadeasignificantandsubstantial Maarten throughhiscompanyNecolNV,andincon- been dedicatedtoprovidingtheseservicesinSint year’s awardwinner,AndrewRapley,hasconsistently high-tech world,ayachtisunabletooperate.This cal andelectronicservice,withoutwhichintoday’s supply ofanumberservices,mostcriticallyelectri- Caribbean marineindustrydependsontheeffective Award, BudgetMarinestressedthatthesuccessof In awardingtheirMarineProfessionaloftheYear Sint MaartenMarineProfessionaloftheYear2007 but there’softenstreetentertainmentasyoustroll. museum —stayopenuntil8:00 restaurants —plusthepubliclibraryandnational art galleries,internetcafé,pharmacy,barsand shopping. Notonlywill28businessesincludingshops, ing “GoCarenage”:regularWednesdayevening Business ownersintheCarenageareaarenowoffer- the CarenageoutsideCable&WirelessorFoodFair. Yacht ClubandtheMainPostOffice.Alldropoffon Roundabout andGrandAnse;alsojustoutsidethe buses runreasonablyregularlyfromWoburn,TrueBlue those anchoredordockedonGrenada’ssouthcoast, easy toseefromtheothersideofharbour.For Carenage. BB’sislitbyapurplelightatnight,which Crab BackRestaurant,whichisatthefarendof building. ThereisalsoaplacetotieupatthenewBB’s popular FoodFairsupermarketandthenewHubbard’s larly tieupontheCarenageinareabetween away fromtheanchorageatRossPoint.Dinghiesregu- Club andtheLagoon,alsoonlyadinghyride easy dinghyride,orawalk,fromtheGrenadaYacht PM on Wednesdays, issue of nated as‘SizzlersontheSand’inFebruary2007 Nevis wasoneofjust24beachfrontrestaurantsdesig- Sunshine’s BeachBarandGrillonPinney’sin Conde NastLovesNevis’‘Sunshine’! and yachtingindustry”. to ensurethecontinuedgrowthofGrenada’scruise “looking forwardtoworkingwithallthestakeholders In acceptingthisnewpositionIansaidthatheis a charteryachtoperatingfromSt.Maarten. regattas intheregionandCanada,crewingon gained frombeingbothacrewmemberinvarious 15 yearsofexperienceintheyachtingindustry, He alsobringstotheGrenadaBoardofTourismover focusing oncustomerserviceandmanagementskills. involved inamanagementconsultancycompany years, aspartofahusband-and-wifeteam,hewas ence inNorthAmericaandtheCaribbean.Inrecent sales andmarketing/businessdevelopmentexperi- Ian bringstotheorganizationmorethan12yearsof visiting yachtandcruiseshippassengers”. addressed inordertodeliveraqualityexperiencefor mix oftrainingandmarketingactivitiesthatmustbe expected toactas“thekeylinkincoordinatingthe As Cruise&YachtingDevelopmentOfficer,Ianis Yachting DevelopmentOfficerforoverayear. to theprivatesectorafterservingasCruise& Winsborrow. HereplacesDannyDonelanwhomoved Yachting DevelopmentOfficerinthepersonofIan The GrenadaBoardofTourismhasanewCruise& New YachtingOfficerinGrenada tight timedemandsofthebusycharterindustry. to troubleshootandresolveproblemsmeetthe edge andunderstandingofthesesystemstoallowhim Sunshine’s secret:‘IfItoldyou,I’dhavetokillyou.’” ture KillerBeecocktail,whoseingredientsremain quite impressive.Butthemainattractionissigna- tion attheedgeofFourSeasonsresort,castis Caines, a.k.a.Sunshine.Andgivenitsstrategicloca- by-ten glossiesofcelebsposingwithownerLlewellyn wood-and-license-plate décorisjazzedupwitheight- “…At thislaid-backbeachshack,thestandarddrift- to sayaboutSunshine’s: with the“coolestofcool”andthisiswhathehad Keown scouredtheCaribbeantopresentreaders Conde NastTraveler magazine. AuthorIan —Continued onpage42 —Continued APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 101112 0623 13 0712 14 0800 15 0849 16 0940 17 1034 18 1132 19 123420 1339 21 (new) 1442 22 1542 23 1636 24 1725 25 1809 26 1851 27 1930 28 2009 29 2049 30 2130 31 2214 2301 2352 212223 1558 24 1658 25 1753 26 1849 27 1930 28 2013 29 2053 30 2132 2211 May 2007 2251 DATE TIME 123 2333 4 00005 0017 6 (full) 0105 7 0157 8 0250 9 0345 0439 0532 APRIL & MAY OF THE MOON MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable The tide starts running to Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. April 2007 DATE TIME 123 2332 4 0000 5 00116 0052 7 (full) 0134 8 0220 9 0309 10 0401 11 0455 12 0550 13 0645 14 0738 15 0830 16 0920 17 1011 18 1102 19 1155 20 1252 1352 (new) 1455 passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy the time of the meridian Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows help you calculate the tides. passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will an hour after the moon the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Fair tides!

ONNE VAN DER WAL FOR GRENADA SAILING FESTIVAL ; Riot ; Woburn, Razor a Reichel-Pugh 44 cap- —Continued on next page skippered by Jerome ; Sauteurs, . In the match race among winning the pursuit race and Storm, Pimpy Wayward, Aquilo trade tacks at this year’s winning every race in his class and skippered by Peter Morris, were the winners Now for Now HOIC Storm ; Carriacou, Morning Tide, and class winner Behave Yourself Rasmus ; Petite Martinique (one race only), McQuilkin; and the S&S 34 Competitors from 11 countries attended and some 230 crewmembers in all partici- Competitors from 11 countries attended and some 230 eight keelboat races pated on the water. A variety of courses for the event’s in varied conditions, from meant that the fleet of approximately 30 yachts sailed off Grenada’s south the relative shelter of Grand Anse to the challenging waters boats that had participated coast. Both the racing and cruising divisions attracted Sailing Festival ran a one- in the ARC rally, and for the first time ever the Grenada design class for J/24s. and featured significantly in Seven yachts from Grenada and Carriacou competed, the prizes, with Mike Williams on his Beneteau Jerry Stewart from Carriacou in his J/24 taking the Overall Champion’s prize. Trinidad entries tained by Peter Peake; the Beneteau Oceanis

in their respective classes. Anse beach had the On Saturday, the first day of racing, spectators on Grand workboats racing in the added excitement of watching both the keelboats and morning to enable the vis- same waters. On Sunday the keelboats raced only in the featured traditional handi- iting yacht crews to enjoy the Workboat Regatta which racing — from the “Le crafts, local food and, of course, the magic of the workboat sailed under the eye of an Mans” type start to the “race up the beach” finish — all international judge. with competitors racing in The Workboat Regatta also boasted a fleet of nearly 30, canoes) Sauteurs, Woburn, classes based on communities — Gouyave ( and developed a distinctive type Carriacou and Petite Martinique — each of which has Sloops, of sailing craft. Class winners after three races were: Gouyave

NEWS Grenada Sail Fest ’07 Strong Fleets at competi- brings together the highly Grenada Sailing Festival The annual LaSource the sister islands of Grenada, Carriacou and Petite tive local workboat fleets from from all around the world. The event this Martinique, and keelboat competitors to 30th, started with an explosion of fireworks at the year, held from January 26th at Anse Beach and ended with a flood of champagne skippers’ briefing on Grand at True Blue Bay Resort. the final presentations held REGATTA Gouyave Canoes, Sweethearts, Classics and Wanabees in BVI On February 17th, The Loyal West End Yacht Club (WEYC) of the British Virgin Islands hosted the 29th Annual “Sweethearts of the Caribbean” Schooner Race, setting a new standard for classic yacht regattas. Nine schooners ranging in size from 40 to over 100 feet entered the competition. The simultaneous single-handed classic event consisted of 12 yachts in a 16-mile pursuit race. According to the WEYC, “The winds were light, the currents were strong and it took unbelievable seamanship to get the schooners and the single handed out of a wind hole coming around Sandy Spit. It was like someone put the brakes on. The two fleets joined each other and appeared anchored under full sail. Steel Point to the finish line proved another tough task. Lots of current and fluky winds tested sailing skills as the schooners fought their way to the finish line.” Fund-Raiser Boosts Grenada’s Junior Sailing Thanks to the sponsorship of American Eagle for two return tickets to Miami and two return tickets to New York, the 2007 LaSource Grenada Sailing Festival raised EC$7,000 for the Junior Sailing Programme in Grenada. The draw took place at the La Source Grenada Sailing Festival’s Awards dinner and the two winners, Rick Lee of Prickly Bay Waterside and Leo te Boekhorst of North South Trading magnanimously returned their tickets for auctioning. Wendy Bertucci of La Luna resort and Justin Evans of Spice Island Marine Services were the eventual lucky recipients. Unity Andy de Roche becoming the various communities, the winner was Carriacou, with Skipper of the Year. great après racing parties, With near-perfect weather, competitive close racing and The LaSource Grenada Sailing Festival 2007 by all reports was a tremendous success. The organizers give a huge “Thank You” to all of the sponsors, the supporters and busi- nesses who contributed so generously and without whom it just wouldn’t happen. For full results visit www.grenadasailingfestival.com. La Source Grenada Sailing Festival ‘Starboard!’ APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Shipping iseasilyan a magnificentcollectionoffurnitureandhomeaccessoriesfromAsia. and India-contemporarypiecesfabulouslighting.AcrossForever has ACROSS FOREVER: sauces andgourmetjams.Importedcigars.Fine foodsinParadise. 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Recently renovatedthenewfaceofBasil’sBarinMustiqueisallthatandmore World’s Ten BestBarsin1987byNewsweekmagazineandtodaylivesuptothattradi- BASIL’S BARANDRESTAURANT: Visitors toMustiqueareinvitedto: Watch thisspaceacrossfromYoung Island.Call784-456-2602 tinues untilallstockisgonetomake wayforanexcitingnewbusinessnextfall. AT BASIL’S inVilla: of thebeston you willenjoycocktailsmostdelightful,the staff mostwelcomingandthemeals,some blestone buildingwhereyoumayfindBasil’s Restaurant andBar. Airconditioned, BASIL’S BAR: or# ChoiceforProvisioning Your #1 P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, THE FOODSTORE Corea Fine Wine,Cheeses,FreshFruits,Vegetables Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 odyStra:8mt 12pm&3pmto6pm Monday-Saturday: 8amto Tel: (784)488-8479Fax:456-5230 E-mail: [email protected] WE SHIP TO ANY PLACE INTHEWORLD! WE SHIP TOANYPLACE Visit Basil’sinMustiqueorSt. Vincent www.basilsbar.com [email protected] the island. WALLILABOU WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL ANCHORAGE In StVincent -neartheport ofKingstownisan18thcenturycob- West Indies. in theGrenadines. d efficientlyarran (range limitedbythehills) Basil’s Bar VHF Ch16&68 Clear-out sale-50% off, overhalfofourinventory. Salecon- Fabrics asbrighttheseaandlightair... perfectfor Call 784-457-2713 Imagine, decoratingyourhomewithAntiquesfromBali udy a o12pm Sunday: 9amto and ChoiceMeats Mustique ’ s Mustique ged. Call AM Basil’s BarinMustiquewasnamedoneofthe , Lunch is served 11:00 , Lunchisserved There isnothinggeneralaboutBasil’s 784-488-8407 ... CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY AM - 6 PM , Dinner anchored underfullsail’ Light airfortheSweetheartsapproachingSandyCay:‘Theyappearedtobe expected tobepicking upthewinner’strophy.There’salways nextyear! of theRegatta”which wentto Honorary BosunTed Bell presentedtheprizes,includingaspecial prizefor“TheSpirit St. LuciaRainforestfor theirpartinsupportingtheevent. Renwick, St.LuciaDistillers, Spinnakers,Cable&Wireless,Heineken, Waveridersand Industry AssociationofSt.Lucia’sKeatsCompton thankingsponsorsPeter&Co, The well-attendedprizegivingwasheldon thefollowingSundaywithMarine 27 seconds,followedby hours 15minutesand13seconds; Osprey On theSunday,Classicclasswinnerswere:26to34feet, 46 to80feet, The Saturday’swinning“sweetheart”schoonersbyclasswere:35to45feet, race atabout12knotsforthe18ClassicsandeightWanabeesincompetition. older) andtheWanabees(designsof20to25years),withwindsatstart On thefollowingday,raceswereheldforClassicsailboats(designsof30yearsor The finishwasasclosethestart,with Chocolate ed tothefirstPigeonIslandbuoyandthen setoffforAnseCochonwith main fleet.Thewindstiffened(someone had ordereditafterall)astheboatshead- coming upfromMarigotBayandbegan theracearound30minuteslaterthan Doubloon starts inthehandicappedaffair. and theracewason.Threeboatspaidprice(afive-minutepenalty)forearly start astheyachtscircledinfrontofSLYC.Theflagswentdown,hooterblared Class was with Whitea, SeaQueen,HotChocolate,Fido,NutCrackerandBreeze-a-way Cochon andback.Intheenditwasdowntosix—however,ofbest! 22nd IndependenceDayRacefromRodneyBay’sSt.LuciaYachtClubtoAnse Max Krowdrahreports:EightboatswerescheduledtotakepartinSt.Lucia'sFebruary Close St.LuciaIndependenceDayRace tel (599)552-0068. For [email protected], marina locationwashighlighted. Yacht Club,wherethepotentialofJollyHarbourasaracevenueandconvenient The prizegivingtookplaceintheDogwatchPub,homeofJollyHarbour petition inthisregattawasclearlyintense. boat hadarrangedatow“fortheporpoisesofbeatingcompetition”.Thecom- the bowofeach.Inevitablytherewasimmediatecontroversyastowhetherany fourth (Sundaymorning)race,whowentfromboattospendalittletimeat Unique tothisregattawastheparticipationofthreedolphinsatstart front inthatlittleon-the-waterdrama. that wasinahopelesspositionatthebackoffleetbutcamerightupto Lancelot The RacingClasswassplitbetweenthehighraters,beingtwoBeneteau40.7s off thelandofAntigua.JollyHarbourMarinaprovidedfreeovernightdockage. facilities andwindshiftsthatareinterestingbutnottoodramaticasthewindcomes to JollyHarbour.Thesailingareaboastsflatwater,plentyofspace,highlyconvenient Harbour. TheracesweresailedmainlyofftheFiveIslandsharbourlocatedadjacent Budget Marine,theCaribbean’sleadingchandlerygroupandyachtchandlertoJolly at JollyHarbour,Antigua,February17thand18th.Theeventwassponsoredby A well-matchedfleetof19boatscompetedforthe15thAnnualValentinesRegatta Jolly ValentinesRegattainAntigua For fullresultsvisitwww.weyc.net. Ted Bullwho,asusual,marshalledtheevent.Thebreezewaslightfor10 “Someone forgottobookthewind,”saidSt.LuciaYachtClub’sHonoraryBosun bly, asallboatswhichfinisheddidsowithinhalfanhouroftheallottedtime. Incredibly, thetimeforcoursewaspredictedatfiveandhalfhours.Isayincredi- they satinitandwatchedthebackoffleetsailpastthem. sion ofthefleetpositionsasaresultwindholewhichwastraumaticforsome On theSaturdayduringsecondrace,finalmarkcausedadegreeofinver- place wenttotheLindenberg28 sailed, wasunabletobeatthelightandasymmetrical-spinnakered Malone ofEnglishHarbour.Secondplacewentto David Milner’s to continue.ColinJoneswontheclasswithconsistencyandallwinsonsecondday. In theCruisingClass,CharlesKenlock’sfolkboat26wonfirsttworacesbutwasunable on thefirstdaydiminishedchancesofgoodresults. Huey Too, the Rhodes-designed featured veryclosestartsandmuchchangingofpositions.HansLammersaboard High Tide fleet ofeightboats—whichwasreducedtosevenwhentherigonDehler34 The Racer-CruiserClasswasthemostintenselycontested,withaverywellmatched spinnaker butmanagedtodoverywellwithoutanyweightonthe“rail”. place wenttotheever-improving Mike) crew,whoworkedhardforthepositionwithawell-preparedboat.Third extensive skillsinfindingluck.Secondplacewenttothe —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Doubloon ; 46to60feet, and threatened foronemomenttoadoptthehorizontalposition.Thisclass , whichlaterretired,wasalateentryafter experiencingengineproblems Cayenne III which peakedwithtwowinsinthefinalraces,althoughpoorresults leading thecharge.Withjustthreeminutes separatingfirstfromlast. Fiesta Heron First Across , whoretired,and took secondplaceineveryracetobeatPaulJackson’s ; and81to110feet, , andfirstamongtheIslandSloopswas Kate Sunshine , andthe1720bynameof Hot Chocolate ; and61to100feet, dominated intheendthroughconsistencyandhis Fido Eclipse Seeya Sea Queen Blue Peter whose crew,judging bytheirT-shirtslogan, , whofailedtostart,makinguptheeight. Whitea , whichwassailedbytwopersonswithout with 5hours48minutesand46seconds. Teaoo . NoteworthyalsowasBernieWong’s Heron was nextwith5hours23minutesand . finishing withanelapsedtimeof5 Diva Lancelot . TakingtopspotintheWanabee won thesingle-handedrace. Windshift Shaggy Budget Marine —Continued onnextpage —Continued Youth Instructor , which,thoughwell Sunshine ; 35to45feet, sailed bySean Shaggy (Tango Hot Mackenzi was one took part, . . Third Seafari AM . ; APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Snorkeling & Diving Gear Courtesy Flags Collectable Knives SINCE 1950 BEQUIA YACHTSPEOPLE WEST INDIES FRONT STREET SERVING FISHERMEN AND Leaders If you need to transport need If you parcels, pallets, magazines, etc... newspapers give CIRExpress to SERVICES efficient COURIER fast and side of St. and French the Dutch Maarten/ St. Martin, delivery system the new offer door to door local the collect and deliver same day, documents, packages and Express Packages,Overnight Freight, Documents etc. us to fast pick up need is contact All you goods. all your and deliver Fresh Bait e-mail: [email protected] • Rigged & Unrigged Foul Weather Gear DUTY FREE Visit us for all your needs Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc… Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, EMAIL: [email protected] Wire, Floats, Nets, Twines, Ropes Bar open daily until… Sunday 6pm - 2am Bar open daily until… Sunday nn nn ee ee BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, tt tt Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am - 10pm Kitchen open Monday to rr rr TEL: (784) 458-3420 FAX: (784) 458-3797 aa aa www.doyleguides.com All the info you need if you are planning a cruise! 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BOB GRIESER . to Streaker Bon Bon in the Racing — his third boat , a Langan 78 third. Under the crew as they crew as in the Racing/Cruising , homeport Detroit, achieved a podium of Annapolis, Maryland, of Annapolis, Sjambok —Continued on next page Captivity Whitea Blue Peter and Sandy Mair in ABN AMRO One Carinthia Chippewa Sjambok Blue Peter Elethea , was named the Top Bareboat Charter second, and Sunshine Harten Heer . In heavy winds, the yacht from Stamford, Connecticut, won the seven-boat IRC Connecticut, won the seven-boat from Stamford, won the CBBS (Caribbean Big Boat Series) Cup in the racing won the CBBS (Caribbean Big Boat Series) Cup in the prize included a handsome print depicting scenes from previous prize included a handsome print depicting scenes from Blue Yankee taking first place, The Cone of Silence , which dominated his Non-Spinnaker 2 Class with a perfect score of three ABN AMRO Chippewa’s Huey Too St. Maarten Heineken Regattas donated by local artist Jim Johnston. St. Maarten Heineken Regattas donated by local artist Rene Baartman’s Moorings 505, —Continued page from previous to the quite rightly, applause went, round of The biggest Class A, while Michael Brennan’s Reichel/Pugh 45 Michael Brennan’s Reichel/Pugh Class A, while Pineapple Cup Montego Bay Race Sleigh Ride Montego Bay Race Sleigh Pineapple Cup having posted Bay Race entrants of the Pineapple Cup Montego With all but one to Montego Fort Lauderdale, Florida, 811-mile distance race from finish times, the on February 23. Bob Towse’s officially concluded for 2007 Bay, , 66 Reichel/Pugh Jolly Harbour YC News Pippa Pettingell reports: Congratulations to all the Antiguan yachts that put on such a strong performance at St. Maarten Heineken Regatta 2007. There were 12 Antiguan boats competing and every one made its presence felt! Six of these boats represented JHYC and they all finished within the first five in their respective classes. It was in the Non-Spinnaker 2 class that our yachts proved the strongest contenders, with picked up the prize for first place. Swiss captain Volkmar shook Ted’s hand, not for Ted’s hand, Volkmar shook Swiss captain first place. up the prize for picked again to compete and promised SLYC events a regular at most time as he’s the first of course! a Swiss one he’s on a roll, you could say I suppose next year. Trophy as top home the Silver Seahorse IRC Class B and took won the seven-boat J/120 boat in the fleet. Frank Kern’s performing IRC after the four-day make the regatta a tremendous success gathered themselves plans were already being marathon of sailing and parties involving a 239-boat fleet, which is scheduled for March set in motion for the 28th running of the annual event, 6th to 9th, 2008. with assistance from a host Chairman and co-founder of the regatta Robbie Ferron, to the first three boats in of St. Maarten dignitaries and officials, handed out prizes presented to the regatta’s each of the regatta’s 20 divisions, with special awards scorers in the Caribbean Big top performers. The CBBS Cups, presented to the high Boat Series, went to Mike Sanderson and his crew of category and Clay Deutsch and his team aboard class. as well as a sensational tro- Boat in the fleet, and was awarded the Columbus Cup, a colorful, handsome globe phy sponsored by Caribbean business Little Switzerland: trophy. inlaid with stones from the continents represented on the Most Worthy Performance And the winner of the St. Maarten/Saint Martin Cup for skipper of the Cal 40, Overall was handed to Antiguan sailor Bernie Evans-Wong, Huey Too consecutive wins. The 27th St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, for the first time in the event’s history, also added a fourth day of racing this year, and 57 spinnaker-flying yachts signed up for Thursday’s extra session, which was scored as a separate series for the Commodore’s Cup, sponsored by Budget Marine. “It was a resounding success,” said Regatta Director Mirian Ebbers. “The turnout was great, well beyond what we expected. We will definitely do it again next year.” Race organizers wish to thank everyone who participated and volunteered, and who enjoyed the wonderful atmosphere at sea and ashore. For more information contact [email protected]. new ownership of novice Tanner Jones and helmed by Iain Mellows, one of her pre- vious owners, this was the third year in a row that place. They were followed by Rick Gormley’s 239-Boat ‘Marathon’: St. Maarten Heineken Regatta 239-Boat ‘Marathon’: St. Maarten Heineken Regatta concluded on March 5th with The 27th edition of the St. Maarten Kim Sha Beach followed by musical entertainment by a prize-giving ceremony on the offspring of reggae legend Bob Marley — sons the band Orange Grove and of volunteers who helped Damian and Stephen. As race organizers and the dozens Michigan, which won the seven-boat PHRF class, also had the best overall perform- class, also had the best won the seven-boat PHRF Michigan, which Cup Perpetual. to win the Silver Pineapple ance for PHRF biennial classic, ranging from the 81-foot Twenty boats signed up for the the 30-foot of Massachusetts, was dismasted in the first hours owned by Samuel Byrne of Hamilton, no injuries but had to put in to Guantánamo Bay, Cuba. the race. The crew reported two years, the event delivered a thrilling sleigh ride True to its form for the past the Windward Passage to Jamaica. “It was the perfect through the Bahamas and said Brennan, who debuted weather for our sort of boat,” of Race Week in January. “It was a windy reach out with that name — at Key West wind died, which was when we were working harder Fort Lauderdale, and then the it 12 to 14 hours under ten knots. But by Saturday night, than any other time, going a great run down to Cuba. The eastern end of Cuba picked up again, making for the deck: a wild sleigh ride in 40 knots.” was breezy, with water over Bay Race is jointly hosted by the Storm Trysail, The Pineapple Cup Montego Yacht Clubs. Lauderdale and Montego Bay visit www.montegobayrace.com. For full results and more information These boats all regularly compete in the Saturday afternoon racing at JHYC. It is also notable that all of these yachts are “older ladies” and it is the skill of the crews that has put them in front of the more modern “racing snakes”. JHYC is in a rejuvenation phase and is eager to encourage new members to come sailing on Saturdays and give them an opportunity to learn from “The Masters”. category at St. Maarten Heineken 2007 Mighty APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 for regionalregattas Blue Peter mittee deskandregattaofficeareofficiallyopenfrom8.00 Customs andImmigrationofficialsareon-sitetoprocessthevisitingsailors.Thecom- each ofthefourdaysracing.ParticipantsbegintheirarrivalfromFriday,and Anniversary celebrations,thereareplansforafullscheduleofpartiesfollowing Angostura TobagoSailWeek2007willbeheldfrom13to18May.Forthe25th Angostura TobagoSailWeekComing on (268)[email protected]. For moreinformationaboutJHYCpleasecontacttheCommodore you’ll beabletofindabargainattheevent. the newpieceofgearthatyou’vebeenwantingforages!Whoknows,maybe that aresittinginyourstoragelockers—waitingtobeconvertedintocashfund be confirmed,butstartcollectingtogetherallthoseunwanted“bitsandpieces” There areplansafootforaregularBoatJumbleinJollyHarbour,thedatesstillto The DogwatchTavernonMay3rdduringAntiguaSailingWeek. calm waters.Ifyouareinterestedintakingpartcomeandseeusonourstandat The sailinggroundsaregreatfordevelopingskills,withvaryingwindconditionsbut frompreviouspage —Continued Fishing startsat5:30 anglers, aboard67boats. Club in1987,thetournamentlastyearattracted272anglers,including34junior place atHullBayHideaway,St.Thomas.FirstorganizedbytheNorthsideSportfishing attracts moreparticipantsthananyotherofitskindintheVirginIslandswilltake Tournament. Theone-dayinshorefishingtournamentthatoffersthebestprizesand Carol Bareutherreports:July15thisthedateofAnnualBastilleDayKingfish St. Thomas’BastilleDayKingfishTournament 0068 or557-0714. For [email protected],tel(599)552- The newdatesareJune16thand17th,2007. at thesametime. from LagoonSailboatRental.Thischangeisduetootherregattassettingtheirdates Design KeelboatChampionships,racedannuallyinSt.MaartenaboardSunFast20s Cary Byerleyreports:NewdateshavebeensetfortheNorthSailsCaribbeanOne Date ChangeforCaribbeanOne-DesignKeelboatChamps visit www.triskellcup.com. For moreinformationcontactJean-MichelMarziou,[email protected] Registration willbeheldattheMarinaYachtClub. association withtheTriskellAssociationandGuadeloupeSailingLeague. The AroundGuadeloupeRaceissanctionedbytheFrenchSailingFederationin Louis toDeshaies;VieuxFortTerredeHaut;andHautPointeàPître. Gosier toSt.LouisdeMarieGalante;GalantePortLouis; Guadeloupe infivelegsfromthe16thto20thofMay.Thedailyracewillbe: Live-aboard monohullsandmultihulls,plusbeachcatamarans,willracearound Around GuadeloupeinFiveLegs For moreinformationvisitwww.sailweek.com. (Jib withpole),ComfortCruising(jibonly),Charter,andMultihull. will beRacing(Spinnaker),Cruiser-Racer(SpinnakerorDoubleHeadsail),Cruising May forregistrationandmeasuring,whichcontinuesonSunday13thMay.Classes subscription to share withfriendsandfamily. each individualpageisprintable,for thosearticlesyouwanttofileor for thepostmantoarrive!Theentire on-lineissueisdownloadableand promptly everymonthwhile“backhome” —withoutanxiouslywaiting while traveling.On-linesubscribers willenjoythecomplete home, atwork(weassumemarine-related researchisapproved!)or articles, photosandadvertisements includingtheclassifieds—at be abletoreadeachcompletemonthly issue—everypage,withall Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com. Check itout!Tell your friends!Forfulldetailsongetting youron-line When you’renotintheCaribbean,with anon-linesubscriptionyou’ll Great newsfor On-Line Subscriptions is oneofthe‘olderladies’whotrainregularlyatJollyHarbour Now Available! AM Compass Compass and endsatnoon,whenthebeachsidepartybeginswith are nowavailable! Compass , visitourwebsite: readers —on-linesubscriptionsto AM on Saturday12th

Compass JODY Championships in2007and2008. Caribe arethemainsponsorsofOptinam2008andCuraçaoYouthSailing also takepartinchampionshipsandtrainingcoursesabroad.ENNIABancodi between theagesofsevenand18years.Everyyear,alargegroupmembers Youth SailingCuraçaoclubhasgrowntoamembershipof130activesailors Youth sailingisaboomingbusinessonCuraçao:afteronlyaboutfiveyears,the tures, thefinancialfeasibilityandorganizationalteam. test foravenue.Theisland’sotherpluspointsincludetheattractivewatertempera- tradewinds andbeach-sideaccommodationwerethedecisivefeaturesincon- bers oftheInternationalOptimistDinghyAssociationinUruguay.Excellent Sailing NetherlandsAntillesduringtherecentannualgeneralmeetingofmem- Curaçao waschosenoverCanadafollowingasuccessfulpresentationbyYouth are expectingaturnoutofmorethan750sailingenthusiasts. try representatives,andparentsothersupporters.Theorganizersoftheevent Optimist teamswillconsistofthesailors,theircoaches,teamleaders,coun- show thatCuraçaoisanexcellentplaceforahigh-qualitysailingevent.The van Aanholtandhisteamwillhave,aftertheOptinam2007inMexico,oneyearto (International SailingFederation)approvedyouthsailingevent.OlympicsailorCor Puerto Rico(2006),CuraçaowilltakethechallengetoorganizeanISAF 25 countriestothewatersofJanThielBay.AfterTrinidad&Tobago(2005),and championship cupisexpectedtoattractmorethan200sailorsfromapproximately Championships (Optinam)foryouthsailorsuptotheageof15.Thebattle Marjolein Grolreports:InJuly2008,CuraçaowillhosttheNorthAmericanOptimist Optinam 2008tobeHeldinCuraçao For [email protected]. age beforethestartonNovember15th. the QuintadoLordemarina,whichwillofferrallyparticipantseightdays’freedock- Islands, theTransatdesPassionnesAtlanticRallywillbeginthisyearinMadeiraat Due toaseverepricehikeforberthingatitsformerstartingpointintheCanary New StartforTransatdesPassionnésAtlanticRally For moreinformationphoneMonicaLesterat(340)774-5206. St. ThomasRescue,TheAmericanRedCrossandFamilyResourceCenter. The AnnualBastilleDayKingfishTournamentbenefitstheJosephSibillySchool, food, musicandfunlastingrightupuntiltheawardsceremony. in homewatersnextyear one ofthemanyYouthSailingCuraçaomemberslookingforwardtohostingOptinam Curaçao juniorsailorMichielvanWickeren,hereracingina‘Splash’classdinghy,is APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 in Apartment

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Balaju 2 Pipedream Cayennita Three Harkoms, , Kirby 25, John Foster, Heels! , Modified 445, Chris Lloyd, Tortola, BVI (12) Antonio Mari, Puerto Rico (24) , Nacra 5.8, Doug DeRue, St. Croix, USVI (19) , Thomas 35, St. Croix, USVI (19) , J/24, Jae Tonachel, St. Croix, USVI (19) , Alberg 35, Stan Joines, St. Croix, USVI (9) , Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 54, , Hobie 16, Chris Schreiber, St. Croix, USVI (16) , Carlos Aguilar, St. Thomas, USVI (29) , Kelsel 47, Richard Wooldridge, Tortola, BVI (7) , Sirena 38, Peter Haycraft, Tortola, BVI (20) , Soveral 27, Tony Sanpere, St. Croix, USVI (15) , J/27, Chris Thompson, St. Thomas, USVI (8) . The Virgin Islands duo hope to qualify for . The Virgin Islands duo hope , C&C 37, Jose Sanchez, Puerto Rico (21) , J/105, Papote Reguero, Puerto Rico (21) , Peter Voyershark, St. Croix, USVI (18) , Fred Ruebeck, Tortola, BVI (34) , Chris Stanton, St. Croix, USVI (8) , Mark , Tortola, BVI (43) , Tremelino, Dr. Parry, St. Croix, USVI (21) , Peter Peake, Trinidad (24) , Newick 23, Joe San Martin, St. Croix, USVI (14) 14th Annual St. Croix , and swept the Large Multihull category. St. , and swept the Large Multihull Optimist Regatta Winners by Carol Bareuther 4th Annual Valentine’s Day Triple Jack Piglet Chaos Century 21 MaxiCat Wave Magnet Windflower Marie-Ellen Devil 3 Storm Ex Mero Motu, J-Walker El Shaddai II Good Bad & Ugly Green Boat Bmobile INTAC Pipedream Balaju 2 Umakua Three Harkoms Cayennita El Presidente In the Racer-Cruiser Class, the BVI’s Peter Haycraft, In the Racer-Cruiser Class, Meanwhile, in Performance Cruiser, it was the BVI’s Meanwhile, in Performance Multihulls — large and small — have always enjoyed Multihulls — large and small Day Optimist Regatta The 4th annual Valentine’s Howard Silverman, St. Croix, USVI (13) St. Thomas, USVI (21.5) International Regatta Winners Multihull 1) 2) 3) Beach Cat 1) 2) 3) & Main 1) 2) and sailors themselves put heads together and ironed put heads together and sailors themselves the racing got underway. out class designations before as racing was close. The assignments seemed apt, aboard his Sirena 38, over two Puerto Rican boats, who tied one another in points. much-modified 445, over St. Croix’s Tony Lloyd, which won by three points Sanpere’s Soveral 27, Advanced Fleet Overall 1) Ian Barrows, STYC, 35 2) Nikki Barnes, STYC, 35 3) Billy Gibbons, SCYC, 36 Red Fleet 1) Nikki Barnes, STYC, 35 2) Billy Gibbons, SCYC, 36 3) Raul Rios, PR, 41 Blue Fleet 1) Ian Barrows, STYC, 35 2) Alec Tayler, STYC, 59 3) Alejandro Monllor, PYFC, 97 White Fleet 1) Mack Bryan, SCYC, 125 2) Addison Hackstaff, STYC, 147 3) Colin Brego, STYC, 155 Green Fleet 1) Patson Saner, SCYC, 16 2) Jonathan Woods, BVI, 26 3) Eric Perez, SCYC, 37 Spinnaker Racing 1 1) 2) 3) Spinnaker Racing 2 1) 2) 3) IC24 1) 2) 3) Racer/Cruiser 1) 2) 3) Performance Cruiser 1) 2) 3) nice participation at this event. This year, the BVI’s nice participation at this event. over his Kelsel 45, Richard Wooldridge brought Jack with St. Thomas’ Terry Croix’s Chris Schreiber, sailing Cat win in their Hobie 16, Jackson, sailed to a Beach Century 21 this summer’s Pan Am Games. with 24 juniors compet- was sailed at the same time ing. In the end, St. Thomas’ Ian Barrows won the Opti Overall in a tiebreaker with fellow islander, Nikki Barnes. Both Barrows and Barnes, as well as St. John’s Alex Coyle, St. Croix’s Billy Gibbons and St. Thomas’s Alec Tayler are training for the Optimist World Championships in Sardinia, Italy, this summer.

DEAN BARNES , a , a Devil 3 J-Walker Devil’s was Hot Hot was got the rum… cast off en route to the likes it windy and rough. We did- Devil Storm , in recent years, plans to sail the Storm . CORT includes the St. Croix couldn’t beat Crucian entry couldn’t beat Crucian entry won Spinnaker Racing 1, it was Storm coming! But the crew is Phil Barnard, from St. Vincent, who is Storm

Devil 3

One of the biggest controversies in recent years has San Martin explains, “Racer-Cruisers are heavier dis- Ultimately, regatta organizers, the CSA measurer Peake explains, “ Peake, who has campaigned his Henderson 30, “I’ve got a really great crew,” Peake said. Among the Forty boats hailing from the US Virgin Islands, In spite of the changes, regatta director, Julie San Representation from the Spinnaker Racing group was so Fresh from a Racing Class win at LaSource Grenada Racing Class win at LaSource Fresh from a Storm been what categorizes a boat in the Racer-Cruiser and Performance Cruiser classes. placement boats without a planing hull. They’re expect- ed to fly a spinnaker. The big difference between them and Spinnaker boats is that they are measured heavy. They don’t have a stripped-out hull. On the other hand, boats can go into the Performance Cruising class from either Racer Cruiser or Spinnaker. The issue is whether they are measured light or heavy. They can fly a spin- naker or not, and are scored accordingly, but they have to declare their intentions at the onset of the regatta. What the Performance Cruiser designation allows is for a Spinnaker boat that is light on crew or with crew inex- perienced in handling a Spinnaker to still be able to race in a class competitively.” J/27 skippered by St. Thomas’ Chris Thompson, that led the pack of mostly J-boats in this class. Melges 24 sailed by the Stanton brothers, for the top Melges 24 sailed by the Stanton in Cruzan rum. prize — the skipper’s weight Slippery When Wet Storm working two jobs in one — foredeck and calling tactics. British Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico and Trinidad, sailed in this CORT kick-off that witnessed two major changes this year. First, the dates of the event were moved up a week, to February 9th though 11th, so as not to compete with several on-island activities held over the US President’s Day Weekend. Second, the regatta was shortened by one day, thus making it a two-day event rather than three. Martin, said, “We had 15 percent greater participation than last year.” good that regatta organizers had to split the class in two. While n’t have those conditions the first day; it was very light. Above ten knots, we go. And, that’s what helped us catch up the second day when the conditions got heavier.” Caribbean Ocean Racing Triangle (CORT Series) aboard International Regatta, Heineken Culebra International Regatta and BVI Spring Regatta. Sailing Week 2007, Storm the on northern Caribbean and entry into the 14th annual northern Caribbean and entry in the US Virgin St. Croix International Regatta 44, co-owned by Trinidad’s Islands. The Reichel-Pugh Les Crouch, made an Peter Peake and California’s But, in spite of impressive splash on the racecourse. Trini and Vincentian Peake driving and an all-star crew, St. Croix International Regatta 2007 Regatta International Croix St. APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 Optimists, Lasers,Sunfish,Formula,BicandSportMultihullsclasses. France, St.Lucia,Trinidad&TobagoandPeru,sentrepresentativestosailin Fourteen countries,includingBarbados,Canada,Cuba,theDominicanRepublic, to raceduringthe18thSemaineNautique,heldfromFebruary16th21st. close to180youngandnot-so-youngpeoplefromthefourcornersofglobecame struction ontheseafront,GuydeChavignyonceagainwavedhismagicwandand - Racing - Laborde, ClubNeptune;Multihulls- barbecue parties,dancesandprizegiving—averitablecarnivalofsailing. participants racedfourcoursesandeacheveningcelebratedtheday'ssailingwith 17 to19,withover30boatsfromfourclubsregistered.Duringthethreedays Neptune’s MartiniqueCarnivalRegattaandtheSemaineNautiquedeSchoelcher. artistic endeavourmadeforoneofthebestcarnivalsinrecentyears. 2007 andthisyearinFortdeFrance,Martinique,tradition,sounds,emotion is yourreaction?Youlaugh—becausethistheopeningparadeforFoyalCarnaval Effervescence In Martinique, CarnivalIn Martinique, On theSaturday,excellentconditionsforfirstdayofracingallowedtwo On theothersideofbayatSchoelcher,afterayearinterruptionforcon- W The MartiniqueCarnivalRegattaclasswinnerswere:Cruising- The secondeditionoftheMartiniqueCarnivalRegattatookplacefromFebruary To addtothefestivities,tworegattaswereheldduringcarnivalperiod:Club Caraibe Greement the mayorofyourtownisdeckedoutinabig,hairywigandtophat,what up inlaceandlipstick,itgivesyoupauseforthought.When,byhisside, hen youseethe(male)directorofyourbankswirlingdownroaddressed Means Regattas! , HerveLeGall,ClubNeptune. , PhilippeLeconte,ClubNautiqueMarin;Racing-Cruising Drabenec by CiarlaDecker , ThierryNormand,ClubNeptune; Gibol 2 Sport Catclass took thirdplacein (sail number1946) Windforce Robert Jean Arseneof Horth andAlick- Schoelcher. Anthony sailing craftat a varietyofsmall There wasracingfor , Michel Laser racingwasintense,withthreedifferentclassesdrawingatotalof34entries who knows—youmayevenseeYOURbankerinaget-upthatstopsyourheart! young sailorsatCercleNautiquewillagainre-affirmwhywealllovethissport;and Neptune wouldwelcomeyourparticipationintheMartiniqueCarnivalRegatta; races, withdiscards,exceptBIC293Dafternineonediscard. Sunfish (8entries),OlivierAlminin,Martinique.Allresultscalculatedwereafterten Guadeloupe; OptimistMinimes(40entries),YvannThelier,and Kevin Dufeal,Martinique;OptimistBenjamins(19entries),AntoineLefort, Laser Radial(17entries),NicholasRendu,Martinique;Standard(7 entries), RemiVila,Martinique;Laser4.7(10EliotMerceron, Marchais andArnaudMaurin,Guadeloupe;FormulaExperiencewindsurf(32 entries), Jean-SebastienLuchel,Martinique;SportCatamarans(13Pascal the sportofsailing.Itlookslikenextyear’scompetitionwillbeevenstiffer. from thisislandgivesproofofthegrowinginterestyoungpeopleinSaintLuciafor not enterthewinner’scirclethisyear,greatnumberofenthusiasticcompetitors Radials, takingsecondandthirdplacethere.WhiletheSaintLuciandelegationdid inated byMartiniqueandGuadeloupe.Trinidad&TobagodidbestintheLaser from MartiniquebattledWicolasSchreurPeruintheFormulawindsurfclass. class. TheyoungGuadeloupeansdominatedtheOptimistJuniors,whileRemiVila second place,withTrinidad’sMatthewScottultimatelytakingthirdplaceinthis sailors EliotMerceronandAnthonyNgocontinuedtheirtugofwarbetweenfirst sunny Tuesdayofracingwithafreshbreezeandchoppysea.MartinicanLaser4.7 anyone’s game”tookovertheclubhouse.AnovercastMondaygavewaytoabright egory, Saturday’sleaderswerereplacedbynewwinnersandtheatmosphereof“it’s Sunday, windsofForce4to5blewsteadilythroughthethreematches.Ineachcat- courses tobecompletedandsetthetoneforcompetitionwhichwasfollow.On For completeSemaineNautiqueSchoelcherresultsvisitwww.ligue-voile-martinique.org. Carnival isinearlyFebruarynextyear.TrytoplansometimeMartinique.Club The SemaineNautiqueSchoelcherfirst-placeclasswinnerswere:BIC293D(15 On thepodiumduringprizegivingonTuesdayevening,allnineclassesweredom- APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 in the Norvantes . The thoroughbred during the first - Norvantes Norvantes ), won the Newport-Bermuda Race and has beaten ), won the Newport-Bermuda restoration is to sail the yacht in most of the classic . Noryema V Noryema V’s Noryema V the last Fife ever built.

The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta is organized by West Indies For more information visit www.ClassicRegatta.com. The plan after The previous owner, Johnny “Togoboge” McGowan, who sailed The previous owner, Johnny “Togoboge” McGowan, who The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation recently acquired The St. Maarten-St. Martin The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation will soon launch a The St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation Educational Component to Offer Workshops Educational Component Events for the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta Foundation. The next regatta is scheduled for January 17th through 20th, 2008. yacht regattas in the Caribbean, the USA and Europe, with a professional captain and one or two crew members, with some St. Maarten-St. Martin students as regat- ta crew. The yacht will promote sailing and especially classic yacht sailing while the crew will act as ambassadors to promote the yachting and tourism industry of St. Maarten-St. Martin and other Northern Caribbean island destinations. learn ship restoring, maintaining and building classic boats. Negotiations are under- way with yacht restoration schools abroad, from where some instructors will be attracted to teach in St. Maarten. Among the skills which will be taught to students are: use and maintenance of hand and power tools; essential woodworking skills, structural rebuilds lines-taking, fastening, lofting, all aspects of wooden yacht con- struction; use of all materials in yacht repair and construction; sanding, varnishing and painting techniques; cabinet building, joinery and finishing techniques; electri- cal, electronics, water and pump systems; engine installation and maintenance. Solway Maid, yacht has won awards in many classic and other regattas, represented England in classic and other regattas, represented England yacht has won awards in many the Admiral’s Cup (as 2005, has been unable to sail first St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta in Yachts and the opportu- lately due to illness. Through talks with broker No Limits the yacht’s ownership has nity to receive a purchase loan, a sale was closed and Yacht Regatta Foundation. been transferred to the St. Maarten-St. Martin Classic and give the yacht a complete The foundation’s aim is to do an extensive restoration or two, and the yacht will refit. The total restoration project will take at least a year again be called the 47-foot wooden classic Camper & Nicholson yacht the 47-foot wooden classic

Project Indies) in order to set up program (together with the Maritime School of the West of qualified instructors, to shipwright workshops for students under the supervision Restoration Classic Yacht Classic Launches Launches Foundation Regatta St. Martin Classic Yacht Regatta in 2005 Randy West steering the soon-to-be-restored APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 nuisance, butitalsoaddedatouchofspiceandfeelingcamaraderiethere a secretchannelandculminatinginchasesthroughthemangroves.Yes,itwas around indinghiessayingthingslike“Redalertallsectors,redsectors”on hurricane statisticsontheInternetandyou’llgetotherhalfofpicture. ial photooftheharbourandIneedn’tsayanymoreaboutprotection.Study that Idon’thavewhenlumberedwithacherishedandimperfectvesseltoconsider. I’m “sansboat”atthemomenthasenabledanemotionaldetachmentandfreedom Caribbean Seaintoafewhoursfromeasttowestandnorthsouth.Thefactthat your average,non-combatmodel,female. where itiswarm,affordableandcomparativelysafefromhurricanesthugsfor inflating pricesbehindme,andtheobjectofgameistofindTheSecretHarbour crime ratestoleft,piratestheright,diminishinginsurancezonesinfrontand Over theyearstherehavebeensomeboutsofthieveryandboaterszooming Luperon hasanamazingsafetyrecordwhenitcomestohurricanesandviolentcrime. The firstisLuperononthenorthcoastofDominicanRepublic.Studyaer- I havecomeupwithacoupleideastoshareyou. I wasn’tdoingtoowellsocheated,jumpedonaplaneandsquishedthe I feelasthoughI’minthemiddleofacomputergame.Therearerisingviolent- ALMOST PERFECTHURRICANEHOLES by JuliaBartlett Part 1:Luperon the author’scriteriaforan‘almostperfect’hurricanehole Warm, affordable,andnearlyland-locked,LuperonintheDominicanRepublicmeets tude basedonhardfacts? Luperon isthattheinsurancecompaniesdonotrecognisefigures. the hurricaneseasonhastooffer,actofGodorman.Themainproblemwith tly outagain,breathingasighofreliefafterwinds40or50knotsifanythingatall. towards theBahamasthathaveeveryonerushingintomangrovesjusttofloatgen- the mountainstonorthcoastsotheyjustbringrain—alot.It’sthosemoving nearly allthestuffingknockedoutofthembytimetheyhavepuffedtheirwayover that makesabigdifferencetohowsafeIfeelaswomanonmyown. was noactualviolence,orthreatsofthatIhavemanagedtodigup.And After alltheycanonlygainfromtheircustomers’yachtsbeinginasafeharbour. Perhaps alittlewell-informedpressurefromtheirclientsmighthelp? Perhaps it’salittletoomuchpaperworktomakeanexceptiontherulesoflati- So rightinthemiddleofhurricanebeltthereisthissanctuaryfromworst The topographyofHispaniolameansthathurricanescomingfromthesouthhavehad

—Continued onnextpage —Continued PUERTO BLANCO MARINA BLANCO PUERTO APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 on board; if not, Puerto Blanco Marina may not be full-service, but the more fun clients have the happier the owner is

JULIA BARTLETT while they are in Luperon. more The Gentleman’s Guide to Passages South You are also welcome to e-mail me at [email protected]. You are also welcome to e-mail me at [email protected]. has details of the har- A useful chart is HIS017 published by Wavey Line, which put a call out on VHF If you are feeling diffident when entering the harbour of finding spares and the The down side of Luperon, apart from the challenge you can read about that Another safe harbour is Bocas Del Toro in Panama; There are another half a dozen restaurants well worth visiting too, just ask around. too, just ask worth visiting well a dozen restaurants another half There are delivered to yet but you can have fuel not have a full service marina Luperon does There are inexpensive, Wi-fi is emerging and there is a variety of Internet cafés. and their fellow revolu- By the way, the harbour was used by the Mariposa sisters Bruce van Sant. You Luperon is the home of the Caribbean cruising authority it’s available at many chandlers and Amazon. He has a website (www.thornless- it’s available at many chandlers and Amazon. He has find his e-mail address there. path.com) and if you have particular questions you’ll bour entrance and it can be ordered on line. it’s the middle of the night. Channel 68 and I can guarantee a friendly voice, unless you and the boat in shape, insurance issue? There aren’t many places to sail to keep hours to the west there’s but an hour to the east there’s Cambiaso and a few Manzanillo, both fun for a couple of days. next month. Flea Market, fancy dress balls, fashion shows, charity auctions, pot luck suppers or suppers pot luck auctions, charity shows, fashion balls, dress fancy Market, Flea has seen the marina me tell you, organise. Let want to else the boaters anything want to print but if you them in if I talk about lose friends times. I might some wild a drink…. buy me so there’s or shop, to help you order English speak enough many locals These days that is intimidating. up with a plateful of something no need to end less, from the service station. the boat by Papo or you jug it yourself, for slightly and Margo and Brian will There’s always at least one person offering bottom cleaning find so it saves a hassle if you do your canvas repairs. Boat spares can take time to you’ll need. bring any with you that you have a sneaking suspicion old colonial zone, and motor- luxury buses to the capital, , and the cycle hire for the truly adventurous. it’s still called the Bahia de tionaries in the days of Rafael Trujillo; sometimes spirit in the air behind Mariposas and it seems to me that they’ve left an inspirational them. In my experience people somehow become probably have his book Social life? Well there’s the whole gamut from the socially well-adjusted attending Social life? Well there’s the whole gamut from the socially divorces, love triangles and There’s always spicy gossip and intrigue, weddings and an illegal boat trip to Occasionally somebody decides to make money by running been to so far where I have The is the only country I have from Laisa’s El Tipico chick- There is a variety of places to eat and drink, ranging he wants people to Lenin, the owner of Puerto Blanco Marina, has one criterion: But Luperon and the Dominican Republic have more than a sanctuary to offer. a sanctuary more than Republic have Dominican and the But Luperon into you there. should I bump split on you I won’t And I promise five national the mountains, waterfalls, will tell you the details of Any guide book church, run by an ex-boater, on Sundays, through to hardened bar-flies, strumming church, run by an ex-boater, on Sundays, through to hardened Condoms are freely available guitars and playing with the local ladies of the evening. and necessary; health care is inexpensive and good. the odd jealous husband with a gun. not all of them — and that’s Puerto Rico. I don’t know how many go undetected, but The Dominicans see us as when it gets interesting from the spectators’ point of view. of their lives. I have walked spectators, visitors who are not involved in the nitty-gritty tires as though I am invisible. past drug busts and demonstrations with burning car new charge comes in for the argued with the officials and got a compromise. If a and argue it out with the boaters and it’s unreasonable, the boaters get together the Tourist Board — and the authorities with the help of local business owners and authorities actually listen. and where shining pans hang en shack, which is as popular as it was back in 1994 Place which offers gringo food from the smoke-blackened wooden rafters, to Steve’s cane rocking chairs, just to just as you like it, literally, plus laundry, internet and make sure you relax. have the happier he is. Lenin have fun, that’s what he enjoys, and the more fun they to events like the Sunday and Freddy, his cousin and manager, offer their facilities mate zones, a saltwater lake with crocs, cave with Taino hieroglyphics, golf course, mate zones, a saltwater lake with crocs, cave with Taino on. windsurfing, horse riding, the Haitian market and so There is no need to sweat it out on the boat all season. Just a few minutes away by a few minutes season. Just the boat all it out on no need to sweat There is few days, all-inclusive book in for an you can Resort where Luperon Beach foot is the happen. unexpected should the close to the boat price, but be reasonable at a very five distinct cli- whales give birth, a marine park where humpback parks including —Continued page from previous APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 almost non-existentvesseltraffic. “that comeonfastandleaveyoujustasfast” whole dayofsailingwewentthroughafewsqualls to lifewithanupwardflashofnumbers.Duringa racer-style tweaksandadjustmentstonudgetheGPS really didn’tneedtobetouchedexceptforthoselittle we setoutforourdestination.Thesailswereand we allhadacollectivesighofrelieftobesailingagain. like atrooperandafterfewmonthsofrepairsprep, with greatholding. strung withfishingboatsanddinghy-eatingstructures, wanted, andtheanchoragewastypicalVenezuelan, de Margarita.Thissailwasvigorous,whichwehad Porlamar aroundtoJuangriegoontheothersideofIsla with hispitchfork. hints, buttostopbeforeIgetjabbedtoomanytimes is screamingatme,soIwilldomybesttogiveenough and pillagedthenexttimeyougothere!”My“littleguy” saying, “Don’ttellthem,youidiot!Itwillbeover-run there isthatlittlepersontappingyouintheshoulder tell theirownstoryofparadise.But,asyouknow, one sothattheycanenjoytheanchorageorbeginto you findaperfectplacetheideaistosharewithevery- pieces ofclothing,off.Everycruiserknowsthatwhen but thisplaceknockedoursocks,andmanyother personal ShangriLaamongsttheSanBlasIslands, Barb andIhadthoughtthatwefoundourown hard abouttellinganyonethefollowinglocation. Sensation Early thenextmorning,withcoffeemugsinhands, The startofourjourneywasabasicday-sailfrom This cruisehascausedmetoreallythinklongand DESTINATIONS Secret by Cruisin’Canucks Ladyhawke —Continued onnextpage —Continued took totheshakedown soul formiles….‘Thisplaceknockedoursocksoff’ The threemainingredientsforanadultfantasythemepark:warmclearwater,sugar-likesand,andnotanother APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 Snorkeling was a two- to three-hour daily excursion to three-hour was a two- Snorkeling We were glad that the weather report, fictional or Psssst, don’t tell anyone! men on the beach and, in Spanglish, we learned about we learned in Spanglish, and, beach on the men It was the rocks. collecting from they were the shells like raw with lime, and eaten of delicacy some sort Isn’t these treats. offered to share Again, they oysters. territory? cruising in Venezuelan it scary with her our stay. Barb was equipped for us during case so she could new DVD camera in its underwater Among the numerous take both motion and still shots. in these clear waters, we varieties of beautiful coral fish as well as octopus, saw the usual multi-coloured were a little more skittish rays and turtles. Most fish are used to seeing hun- than those in Bonaire, which over them weekly. Once dreds of humans hovering would pop out and spend they got used to you, they more time. One Queen Angelfish got to a point that she seemed to want to be on film and kept showing up. Even the darn barracuda seemed friendlier here. not, required us to hold up another day to ensure safe passage back to Margarita. In all the islands that we have visited from Costa Rica to Venezuela, we would have to say that this was indeed the best place in the world, so far. If you are cruising through or around Venezuela you cannot miss this island as it is the ultimate paradise destination. I still cannot reveal the location as the “little guy” on my shoulder is jumping up and down screaming at me, but if you check the best cruising guides and follow the clues, you will know the place that I am talking about. www.curacaomarine.com

On the fourth day, a local fishing boat showed up. we had indeed found paradise was the discovery of a large patch of aloe vera plants just metres from our two palm trees. The gathering of these leaves and obtaining the nectar from them made both of us comment that if you added an apple, a snake and the big guy in the sky, we had indeed traveled back to the beginning of time. We waved at them and teased with the “huge fish” ges- ture as they headed out to set their nets. They said, “Mañana, mañana.” The next day two young lads showed up with big smiles and gave us two beautiful snapper. They did not want money or anything, but luckily we had some Canadian hats and other treats to thank them for their generosity. We met more fisher- sugar-like sand and window-clear surf. The palm trees The surf. window-clear sand and sugar-like and in a few donkeys place for were a gathering at night numer- adorned by where their branches the morning admit- Barb and I third day, both After the ous parrots. much way too we had exposed each other that ted to of sun- familiar sting causing the to the sun, virgin flesh sign that places. The ultimate burn in very unfamiliar Left: A vigorous day-sail from Porlamar to Juangriego Left: A vigorous day-sail from found the landmark — Right: In a secluded bay, we joyous amusement all ‘two lonely palm trees’. To our of our other vessels left within a day - Long-term storage. and many other services. AWLGRIP® indoor spray painting We are located in the safe harbor of . Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Hauling capacity 45 tons and Catamarans up to 33ft beam. Curaçao Marine Curaçao New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. Email: [email protected] Phone: +(599 9) 465 8936 Fax: 465 8941 So here we are with the entire island to ourselves. We approached our destination on the west side of the the west side on our destination We approached This is when you really have to get creative with your sunscreen options as some of those places have never seen sunshine! The two days that followed were no less than an adult fantasy theme park with snorkeling, walks on the ample beaches and rolling around in the lonely palm trees. We were rewarded as, just around a lonely palm trees. We were bay, we saw them. I must little corner in a secluded plan our arrival so that we admit in all our voyages, we and the sun is not hiding have plenty of anchoring time fiberglass residue then those little rocks that have more hit the mark perfectly as the coral on them. This time we at our backs while the sun was just thinking of setting The clarity of the water boat backed down on the hook. and the sunny day behind us had Barb and I simulta- neously volunteering to dive the anchor, just to make sure. Barb’s waving flipper as she passed the anchor on route to the set of reefs nearby was either a sign that all was well or a taunt saying, “Ha, ha. I saw this place first.” When we arrived, the anchorage had a whopping five vessels in sight, with us being number six. To our joyous amusement all vessels left within a day of our arrival! We checked: we don’t have B.O.! It must have been charter-change day or a weather-window of sorts. island looking for (the impossible, in our minds) two for (the impossible, in our island looking —Continued page from previous yell to humorously caused us lonely freighter The one I am miles away. distance of two from a “starboard!” we of our way had gotten out would have sure they day, too. pigs fly that paths. We saw crossed APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 the ferries ensure youmakecallstosuityourplans. Mustique andBequia.Flightschedulescanchange,so having flightsoutofSt.Vincent,Barbados,Canouan, Airways, GrenadineAirwaysandTIA(TransIslandAir) craft, withcompaniessuchasSVGAir,Mustique yacht. UnionIslandcanalsobereachedbysmallair- is notyourtypical“lushtropicalisle”. ance. WithoutanynaturalwatercoursesUnionIsland — arelimitedandhaveaveryfragileecologicalbal- communities —whetherofplants,animalsorhumans Martinique. UnionIslandisasmallislandwhereall imately equaldistancefromTrinidad,Barbadosand Vincent &theGrenadines.Itissituatedatanapprox- is thesecondlargestGrenadineislandwithinSt. view, herbeautifulsmiletoldofprideinisland. St. VincentCommunityCollege.AsIstartedmyinter- my island!”)FeliciaMcKieiscurrentlyastudentofthe island!” (Inotherwords,“I’malwayshappytotalkabout viewed, herresponsewas,“Noproblemonceismy took theopportunitytoinviteayoungladybeinter- fishing. Thepeoplearegenerallyfriendly,andwhenI of currentsthatsweepintotheharbor. tuck inbehindNewlandReeftocutdownontheeffect Clifton Harborisasafeanchorage,butmakesureto net café,taxiservices,groceriesandrestaurantmeals. mooring; obtainfuel,iceandwater;findaninter- Grenadian waters.Herevisitorscananchororrenta yachts arrivingfromsouthordepartingSVGfor Harbor, anditistheportofentryforclearance or thelocaltourismbureausfordetailedinformation. esting maritimeadventure.Checktheferrycompanies and Mayreautooffloadreload.Thatisaninter- Traveling timeissixhoursduetostopsinCanouan Tuesdays, Thursdays,FridaysandSaturdays. There aredeparturesfromSt.VincentonMondays, able withsufficientspaceforpassengersandcargo. If youareinterestedinusingpublicseatransport, People fromallaroundtheworldvisit,oftenby Union Island,withan8.5-square-kilometersurface, On thisisland,themainindustriesaretourismand The mainportforyachtsandferriesisClifton Bougainvilla DESTINATIONS M/V Barracuda A PersonalWelcome to UnionIsland and M/V Gemstar Union Island are avail- by AmalThomas from theair Clifton Harbor Below: at FortHill Felicia McKie Right: torical site.ItwasnamedafterCaptainHughMulzac, Hugh MulzacSquareinCliftonHarborisalsoahis- recreational sitewhichissimilartoabattlecamp. located nearBloodyBayandattractspeopleasa ular “liming”spotforvisitorsandlocals.Raffealis used ityearsagotocollectwaterandnowisapop- out ofstoneandwaswellconstructed.TheCaribs ern sideoftheisland. have cook-outs.ThisBayislocatedonthenorthwest- is nowusedforexploringandasarecreationalareato the FrenchandSpanishfought.Theabandonedcastle Clifton is30minutes.Also,thereBloodyBaywhere ly breezyupthereandthewalkingdistancefrom Today, therearetwocannonsfacingthesea.Itisreal- The fortwasreputedlybuiltinthe17thcentury. Palm Island,PetitSt.Vincent,andPetiteMartinique. Harbor, withviewsoftheTobagoCays,Carriacou, There isFortHilllocatedonahighhillnorthofClifton this littleislandhasnohistory,butinfactitdoes. tions onUnionIsland? ically. Therefore,Ialwayshavetobebackandforth. of mytimeonthemainlanddevelopingmyselfacadem- There arealsoBasketandRaffeal.wasbuilt Amal Felicia Amal [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel: (784)4588878 Palm Island,Mopion Day Charter,Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Wind andSea [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588878 (Blocks &Cubes),Bakery(Frenchbread) Water Station,Dockage,Watertaxi, Ice The Dock [email protected] Res: VHF16,Tel:(784)4588311 and itsGiantAquarium Apr), Bar,Pizzeria,Pool,TableGames Seafood specialties,Livelobsters(Septto Seaquarium Restaurant&Bar Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Tel: (784)4588316 Bathing suits,Furnitureandmore… Souvenirs, Craft,TeeShirts,Pareos, Okaou Boutique - HowlongyouhavebeenlivinginUnionIsland? - Socanyoutellmewhatarethemajorattrac-

- Wellforover18yearsnow,butIspendmost CHRIS DOYLE CHRIS most peoplemaythinkthat interesting historicalsitesnow. southern sideoftheisland. west andAnchorageonthe south, ChathamBayonthe the northeast,Ashtonon foot. BigSandislocatedon reached eitherbytaxior These beachescanbe ing, shellingandswimming. beaches aregoodforsnorkel- Anchorage Beach.These Ashton, ChathamBayand beaches suchasBigSand, about thebeaches.Thereare sites. Firstofallletmechat beaches andafewhistorical Felicia Amal Felicia - Tellmeaboutthe

- Letmesaythat

- Iwillsaythe AMAL THOMAS AMAL in UnionIsland? disadvantages thatmayhinderthegrowthoftourism ing season2007! the marinelifeforfuture.Allbestcruis- garbage appropriatelyonland.Pleasehelptopreserve Clifton Harbor.Pleaseensurethatyoudisposeofyour Sailors, remembertheonlyportofentryonUnionis accommodation andupcominginterestingevents. Union Island,checkourlocaltouristbureauforhotel ment oftheisland.Iwishyouallbest. viewing you.Continuetocontributethedevelop- sea lifeandtourism.Keepupthegoodwork. encourage you,Amal,tobringouttherealstorieson Grenadine islandofUnionIsland.AndIwouldliketo industry isthetourismindustry. needs tobeaddressed.Afterall,ourpeople’smain when youdepartfromtheairport.Thecrimelevelalso this isbecausethatthefirstthinggreetsyou facility needstoberelocated.ThereasonwhyIsay entitled “TourisminMyIsle.” which illustratesmyfeelingsforUnionIsland.Itis low readers? tion thatglows”. Easterval orhistoricalawareness.Thisis“thetradi- phere. Thereisalottooffer,whetheritbeaches, Union Island.Theislandhasawelcomingatmos- sunrise andsunsetarebeautifultoexperiencein with sunnyhotdaysperfecttogothebeach.The the island.Theislandisbasicallyabeautifulplace illustrated inthepoemthatdescribesbeautyof form asubjectiveviewoftheisland.Thisispartly feelings foryourpoem? topic oftourisminUnionIsland? The squareisapopular“hangout”spotonevenings. integrated crewonaUSvesselduringWorldWarII. black merchantmarinenavalofficertocommandan who wasbornonUnionIslandandbecamethefirst Felicia And visitors,ifitisyourintentiontomakeavisit Amal Felicia Amal Amal Felicia Amal Felicia Amal Beauty ishere. Tourism isexpectedinourblessedisle, So comeoneandall, Hugh MulzacSquareistheplacetobe. for heroesthatpassed, people fromallraces,agesandcreeds, For thesearehistoricalsites, of thetraditionthatglows. to knowthetales so beopenhearted onto theUnionshore, as youstepyourway Smiling facesgreetyou, what usedtobenowismadenew. between themountainview, the waysunshinesgolden The beautifulsky,theexoticview, Felicia Amal - Wouldyouliketoshareitwithmeandmyfel- - Thatwasalot!Whatelsecanyousayonthe - Isthereanythingelseyouwouldliketoadd? - Idounderstandyou.However,arethereany - Greatwork!Socanyoupleaseexplainyour - ThankyouFelicia.Itismypleasureinter- – Ohreally,yesIwill! - Well,Iwouldliketoinviteallvisitorsthe - Amal,afewmonthsagoImadeuppoem - Yes,Ithinkthelocationofsolidwaste - GrowingupinUnionIslandcausedmeto Tourism inMyIsle APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware . Loanda The inside of the is visible and the fastenings From all the research I have done it seems most pos- Microfilm copies of newspaper reports in 1898 were Newspaper reports at the time reported, “A terrible the time reported, reports at Newspaper left of the able to measure what is I have been a diagonal beam on either side of the bow starting about 12 feet aft of the bow at deck level, moving down and forward to meet at a lower point on the bow itself. for the copper sheathing can still be seen on the exterior planking. There appears to be some distor- tion on the starboard side of the hull, indicating hull collapse outwards at some stage, but the port side seems to have the original shape. The planking and central deck-support columns appear to be pitch pine and are well preserved, with a good pine- oil smell; the ribs are a darker wood. The iron fas- tenings are also still well preserved, as are the bracket seen on the bow and a cylindrical iron object, possibly a hawsepipe. She lies with her bow pointing southward at an angle of about ten degrees off the beach. The land has eroded sufficiently that the entire vessel is now lying on the beach, some- times buried in the sand and at other times almost fully exposed. sible that she is the obtained from newspaperarchive.com, and registry information from www.mysticseaport.org. had steamed out to sea from , Barbados Bridgetown, from to sea out steamed had and survived.) in the Windward over Barbados has swept hurricane hundred persons Antilles. Two of the Lesser group home- rendered over 40,000 killed and have been most violent has experienced the less… St. Vincent there…” and cyclone ever known and destructive and the three vessels coming ashore mention these also reported with their lives. They crews escaping with wrecks coast was strewn that St. Vincent’s ago on the by the storm. A few years blown down beach, near end of the Georgetown extreme south large ves- did see a few ribs of another Black Point, I the sand. sel buried in beach; it measures 156 shipwreck at Langley Park All that remains would feet by 40 feet at its widest. It appears to have have been below the waterline. vessel because of the been an immensely strong layers totaling a thick- thickness of the hull — three size and close position- ness of 11 inches — and the near the bow. There is a ing of the ribs, particularly V-shaped reinforcement four-inch-thick, horizontal single slab of timber, and across the bow cut from a e-mail: [email protected] Loanda of 582 z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear HMS Alert Lapland Grace Lynwood 452 0311 ) 758 ( . The British man o’ war Fax: z FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Loveable (Another ship lost was probably a barquentine, • The American-registered barque • The American-registered barque tons and commanded by Capt. Cates. She hailed from Boston and was built in 1881 in Bucksport, Maine. She measured 147.6 feet long by 32.9 feet wide by 18.7 feet deep. It was reported that she had been returning from Africa and it was not clear whether she was caught at sea or had been anchored. the Canada in 1881. She hailed from Windsor, Ontario and was owned by Bennet Smith and Sons. She was 200 feet long by 40 feet wide and 24.5 feet deep. She had sailed out of Rio de Janeiro and had been anchored in Carlisle Bay, Barbados when the hur- ricane struck. of 600 tons, normally commanded by Capt. H.A. Gilley but under Capt. Rafford for her last voyage. She hailed from New York and was owned by Miller, Bull & Knowlton. She was built in 1890 in Bucksport, Maine by Beazley & Co. and measured 156 feet long by 38 feet wide and 18 feet deep. She had sailed out of New York via Barbados for Trinidad with general cargo and had been dragged from her anchorage in Carlisle Bay, Barbados by the hurricane. Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware A page from registry records of 1898, listing the A page from registry records Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) 758 of 1,447 ( Tel: Tel: Loanda z

by Duncan Richardson by Duncan ur old shipwreck on the Langley Park beach near on the Langley Park beach ur old shipwreck She Vincent, refuses to go away. Georgetown, St. the while then dives beneath visits for a short

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

It seems most probable that she is one of three large It seems most probable that ship • The British-registered sailing O Right: At nature’s whim, the ship’s ghostly remnants are sometimes visible to the residents of St. Vincent’s north in windward coast, and at other times completely buried sand. Note the close spacing of the vessel’s ribs Above: There is a four-inch-thick, horizontal V-shaped reinforcement across the bow cut from a single slab of timber vessels blown ashore in St. Vincent by the great hur- vessels blown ashore in St. and 11th, 1898. The ships ricane of September 10th in question are: sands for months, only to reappear and show a bit more only to reappear and show sands for months, she does appear, a little bit of herself. Sadly, whenever the battering waves. more disintegrates, victim to

tons, which was commanded by Capt Dodge and built tons, which was commanded Bay, New Brunswick, by J. Fraser in Courtenay

Linked to 1898 Hurricane 1898 to Linked Reappearing Wreck Wreck Reappearing APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 eeeu3S $ 7 0 Jana 52fo $145 000 Jeanneau45.2from $115000 Beneteau411from 50000 50000 $ $ $800000 35”RacingExtreme $550000 HouseBoat 63”Catamaran Princess50 $590000 LagoonCata55S $75000 $75000 Beneteau 38S5 $75000 Wauquiez 38 $219000 Van derStadt46 01 E230000 84 Beneteau 50 $90000 $90000 92 Nauticat 52 03 Jeanneau 35 Beneteau 41S5 BAREBOAT, RACE,CREWEDCHARTERS–REPAIRS,EXOTICMATERIALS Call RonCooper (727)367-5004•www.coopermarine.com T UI,RDE A AIATEL:(758)4584430FAX: 4520742 ST. LUCIA,RODNEYBAYMARINA Caribbean YachtingB.J.Inc • 63x24PowerCatUSCGStabilitytestfor149PAX • FastdeliveryTwinDiesel-BasePrice$299,000 WWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM

VIAL O MEIT DELIVERY IMMEDIATE FOR AVAILABLE All newOffshore 53’catamaranTwindiesel, YACHT CHARTERS,BROKERAGE,SERVICES,RACES 49 passengers, Baseprice$199,000 • Availableassingleordoubledeck AGENT FORNEWJEANNEAUYACHTS CATAMARANS NEW SEATING FOR90PASSENGERS NEW 63’SAILCAT operators arenowbeingharmonizedfortheFrenchCaribbean A dolphinwithreflectionofwatchers.Rulesforwhaleandwatching expressed interestinadheringtothemarinemammalsanctuaryformula. Convention anditsSpeciallyProtectedAreasofWildlifeProtocol.Severalparties priate actionsatthenationalleveltomeetobjectivesofCartagena tats andthebanningorsurveillanceofactivitiesharmfultothesespecies. Wider CaribbeanRegion,whichrecommendstheprotectionofendangeredspecies’habi- the ConventionforProtectionandDevelopmentofMarineEnvironment Caribbean EnvironmentProgrammeandtheNinthMeetingofContractingPartiesto Initiative wasacknowledgedbytheIntergovernmentalmeetingonActionPlanfor United NationsEnvironmentalProgrammme(UNEP)level,whentheFrenchSanctuary Mediterranean SeaandSouthPacific. Sanctuary”. ThisinitiativeechoesotherFrenchmarinemammalsanctuariesinthe their territorialwatersandthecreationofa“FrenchAntillesMarineMammal opting formorevigorousandactiveprotectionpolicieswhalesdolphinsin 2006 theytooktheleadregionallybyreinforcingcurrentconservationmeasuresand France anditsregions,environmentalconcernsarehighontheagendainJune species canbeobservedallyearroundintheFrenchAntilles. Beaked, PygmySpermandBrydesaswellOrcafamiliesavarietyofdolphin wards totheGrenadaBank.AvarietyofothergreatwhalessuchasSei,Fin, grounds tobreedbetweentheSilverBankofDominicanRepublicandsouth- From DecembertoApril,HumpbackandSpermwhalesleavetheirpolarfeeding whales, dolphins,manateesandsealsformorethan30years. Terre andDesirade),St.MartinBarthelemyhave,bylaw,beenahavenfor Martinique, Guadeloupeanditsdependencies(MarieGalante,theSaints,Petite think ofasasharedbutthreatenedtreasure. human activitiesonthese creaturesandtheurgencyofmeaningful regionalcooperation. measures whichwill helpusunderstandcetaceanbehaviour, thepotentialeffectsof particular activityand worthwhiledirectandindirectbenefitsthroughout thezone. leading ecologistandthatofmanyothersin theregionhasensuredanexpansionofthis at herhomeinSt.Lucia2003remains,alas, unsolved.However,theinitialworkofthis Agriculture andresultedinthefirst“Rules andRegulationsforLicence”.Jane’smurder country. Theprojectwasco-ordinatedwith theSt.Lucia’sDepartmentofFisheriesand launched thefirstofficialWhaleandDolphin WatchingAssociationandoperationinthat and whalewatchingventures.In1997ECCEA’s Director,JaneTipsonofSt.Lucia, closely withtheregion’sNGO’sonalternative economiesandthepromotionofeco-tourism to thoseoftheFrenchterritoryMayotte intheIndianOcean. are currentlybeingauthoredandharmonised fortheFrenchCaribbeanandlinked Caribbean havebeenpublished.Rulesandregulationsforwhale-watchingoperators whales mostoftenseenofftheshoresofFrenchislandsandgenerallyin the also apriority.Whaleanddolphinidentificationcharts,postersbookletsabout Guadeloupe, andwilladdtoscientificdatagatheredduringearliercampaigns. Nature Martinique(SEPANMAR),Delphinia,andEvasionTropicaleBREACH in Environmental Awareness(ECCEA),theSocietyforProtectionand nation withNGOpartnerssuchastheEasternCaribbeanCoalition for directed bytheDepartmentofEnvironmentMartiniqueandGuadeloupeincoordi- and theeffectsofpollutionglobalwarmingontheseanimals.Thecampaigns are zones, inordertocontrolpotentiallyharmfulhumanactivitiesdetrimentalthem ing andrestinghabitsthepermanentorshiftingnatureofanimalsinthese waters willfocusoncetaceanhabitatsandmigrationcorridors,reproduction,feed- importance ofsuchanarea. local populations,visitorsandtheyachtingcommunityastousefulness Sanctuary whichincludescommunicationandinformationprogrammesforschools, whales anddolphinswhenfishingoffshore. the evolutionofproject.Theyarealsoreliableandkeenobserversmarine life, Guadeloupe arekeyplayerswhodemonstrateenthusiasmforawhalesanctuaryand scientific andtechnicalskills;fishermentheircooperativesinMartinique 2005-2010 whichisco-ordinatedbyaTaskForceofmenandwomenwithdifferent On thisoccasionothergovernmentswereaskedtoconsidertakingsimilarappro- In NovemberofthesameyearthisactionwasstrengthenedataWiderCaribbean The statusofremainingwhalepopulationsintheCaribbeanisuncertain.For Twenty-eight speciesofmarinemammalshavebeenidentifiedintheCaribbean. Contrasting withwhaleanddolphinhuntsinneighbouringislands,thewatersof Whales anddolphinsaremigratorycreatureswhichmostofusintheCaribbean French Islands’Sanctuary Lesley Sutty istheCEOofECCEA. Formoreinformation visitwww.eccea.org. The Frenchinitiative is agoodexampleofnationalpoliticalwill, optingforlongterm For morethantwodecadesCaribbeangovernments, EuropeandUNEPhaveworked The developmentofcontrolledwhalewatchingandderivedeconomicbenefits is In 2007-2010non-lethalscientificcetaceanresearchprogrammesinFrench The TaskForcehasestablishedpriorityactionsforthemanagementof The SanctuaryispartofFrance’sMarineBiodiversityActionPlanandstrategyfor Protecting Whales for 30Years by LesleySutty APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 RoomMate VHF: 16 BilgeBuster CARRIACOU E-mail: [email protected] Sandy Island & Tyrrel-Bay Sandy Island www.scubamax.com 401.732.6770 Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 www.quantumpureaire.com • at PADI 5 * Standard Air-Fills [email protected] Chandlery 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, Fuel Dock, Water available Do it yourself or labour - Marina New environmentally friendly haulout New environmentally friendly • and Snorkel Gear Rental Scuba • for Sailors Special Group Prices & 15 Specialties in English & Deutsch & 15 Specialties ● ● ● ● ● ● PADI Courses from Beginner to Instructor from Beginner to Instructor PADI Courses • Eliminate Mold, Mildew & Odor FUEL, OIL, WATER and ICE • for Sailors at Hillsborough, Rendezvous Service • pm or individually dives at 9.30 am and 1.30 Daily Phone/Fax (473) 443-7882 and VHF CH 16 and VHF CH 443-7882 (473) Phone/Fax Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! the town us right in Find fax: 401.732.6772 [email protected] Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. 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PROVINCETOWN CENTER FOR COASTAL STUDIES by Nathalie Ward and Jooke Robbins by Nathalie reader can name a whale!

Salt is one of the most famous humpback whales in the world. She is known as Salt is also the first Gulf of Maine humpback whale to have been seen by Salt is the first humpback whale to have been given a name. Hers was given by Salt has given birth to at least ten calves in her life. Her most recent one was born Have you seen or photographed any of these whales in the Caribbean? If so, con- There are five “feeding stocks” of humpback whales in the North Atlantic, known by There are five “feeding stocks” humpbacks from all these North Atlantic populations During the winter months, from the Eastern Caribbean. However, there have There is relatively little data at Petit Nevis, St. Vincent & the Grenadines were Images of two humpbacks landed

1999. One image depicted the ventral flukes of the larger of the two whales. 1999. One image depicted the ventral flukes of the unique pattern of pigmen- Individual humpback whales can be identified from the of the trailing edge. Standard tation on the ventral side of the flukes and the shape the image against the Gulf of photo-identification techniques were used to match Center for Coastal Maine Humpback Whale Catalogue curated by the Provincetown confirmed by the Studies (PCCS), Massachusetts. The match was subsequently curated by the College of the North Atlantic Humpback Whale Catalogue (NAHWC) were photographically Atlantic, Maine. The ventral flukes of the larger animal “Haar” (NAHWC #0694). She matched to a catalogued Gulf of Maine whale known as was first seen in July 1987 and so was at least 13 years old when she died. the “Grand Dame of Stellwagen Bank” because she has been seen on the Stellwagen Bank in the Gulf of Maine in all but one summer since 1976. researchers on Silver Bank off the Dominican Republic. She is one of only a few Gulf of Maine whales to have been seen by researchers in the Antilles in three separate years, although she probably comes here every winter. Her most recent Silver Bank sighting was in 2005 when she conceived her most recent calf, Soya. Her son, Crystal, and grand-calf, Etch-a-sketch, have also been seen by researchers in the West Indies. the late Aaron Avellar, whose family started the business of whale watching on the east coast of North America. These days, humpbacks are given names based on the unique pattern on the underside of their tails. However, Salt’s name was inspired by the thick white scarring on her dorsal fin that made it seem like it was encrusted by salt. when Salt was at least 30 years old. Thalassa is Salt’s oldest daughter, born in 1985. She is presently the only daughter of Salt that is reproductively active, although Etch-a-sketch is now of reproductive age. Thalassa gave birth to Salt’s first grand- calf, Skeeter, in 1992. Since then, she has had four other calves. Her 2003 daugh- ter, Yosemite, was named from an entry in a naming contest sponsored by the Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary. tact [email protected]. Sighting reports can help researchers learn more about the dif- ferent humpback whale stocks that visit these islands every winter. And perhaps a Compass

to Caribbean to of Maine/Nova Scotia, Newfoundland/Labrador, Iceland, their feeding grounds: Gulf in colder waters, each feeding stock stays separate. Greenland and Norway. When the in various shared breeding grounds throughout head south to mate and calve has the largest breeding population. However, hump- Antilles. The Dominican Republic destinations ranging from Puerto Rico/BVI to Trinidad. backs also venture to other of feeding stocks and their winter destinations: been four matches to date Greenland and Grenada; the Gulf of Maine and Newfoundland and Saba Bank; Trinidad. There was also a winter-destination match Bequia; and Norway and In all likelihood, islands throughout the Lesser between Puerto Rico and Dominica. Gulf of Maine humpbacks. Antilles receive visits from of a tourist who photographed the event on 6 March, obtained from the website

Repeat Visitors Repeat Whale Families: Families: Whale No, these aren’t the humpbacks landed at Petit Nevis in 1999. Known by distinct tail No, these aren’t the humpbacks landed at Petit Nevis in son Crystal (below). markings, it’s Salt’s daughter Yosemite (above) and her and the Gulf of Maine Salt and Crystal have been sighted in both the Caribbean APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:4561364 Y TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent email: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 4443944/1555 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’sMarine Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)444 2899 P.O. 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Manypeoplewouldaskhimwhyhe Boss andRockPilotwasPeter“TurkeyLegs” round thenavigationaldanger”. ing instructionssaid,“Ifthemarkismissing,just made, crudeandunreliabletotheextentthatsail- boat aratingtheskipperdidnotlike! a fasterwaytolosegoodcustomersthanassign on atleasthalfofthecompetitors.Icouldnotthink turned itdownflat.Iwasthebrokerforinsurance transportation, accommodation,mealsandbeer,butI impartial judgetosettheratings.Iwasofferedair approached, IwasinvitedupfromGrenadaasan have awaroverratings.Asthefourthregatta year theywerenotonlyracingbutbeginningto off season. boats towinduptheirbusyseasonbeforetheslow Drinking it backinGrenada,it tasteddoublygood. hour doingsobut could notfindasinglebottle. it. Weinvitedhimto searchtheboat.Hespentan ner accusedusofstealing hischampagne,wedenied hide theindividualbottles sowellthatwhenthewin- took itallbacktothe boatandthecrewhelpedme champagne, aswefeltthathadwon theweek.I for winningindividualraces—andalso thecaseof and pickedupthewhiskyrumthat wehadwon winnings. Themorningafterprizegiving, Igotupearly rather theyreturnedthenextmorningto pickuptheir their winnings,didnotcollecttheseon prizenight; etcetera. Thewinners,naturallywishing topreserve pagne; otherprizeswerecasesofwhisky, rum, in theend. penalties weregiveninthosedays).However, we“won” see it.Wewereprotestedandthrownout(notime seems themarkwasthere,butlyingflat;wedidnot race, andwontheregatta—orsowethought.Butit mark wasstillmissing.Weroundedthereef,won massive gains.Onthewayback,weassumed Turkey Legs’directionsthroughthecoralwemade Everyone roundedtheendofreef,andunder Dickenson Bayduringarace,themarkwasmissing. over theside!” cer; Ijustwatchhishandsignals—I’mafraidtolook follows hisdirections.TurkeyLegsismylandingoffi- watches theLandingOfficerwavinghispaddlesand pilot landingonanaircraftcarrier;thejust dangerous itwas?”Iwouldreply,“IamlikeaNavy me, “Don’tyourealizehowclosewent,and course throughcoralheads.Competitorswouldask in inchesofrocksandsometimesthreadusazig-zag THE EARLYDAZE Turkey LegsandabackerhadboughttheBaltic When IfirststartedracinginAntigua,myForedeck In thosedaystherace-coursemarkswerehome- Stealing thePrize By thesecondyeartheystartedracing;bythird The prizeforfirstplaceoverallwasacase ofcham- Once whenroundingCadesReefenrouteto Numerous timesTurkeyLegswouldconustowith- Antigua SailWeek: T years agoasacruiseincompanyofcharter by thelateCommanderVernonNicholson40 he firstAntiguaSailingWeekwasconjuredup Anna Marie ran uponGranddeCoishoalinthe ‘This isn’tTurkeyLegs,’Geoffexclaimed, , andre-fittedherforthecharter ‘Put TurkeyLegsdown!’Isaid. ‘this isPeteVandersloot’ by DonStreet division ina68-year-old boat. proud asweplaced a veryclosefourthintheracing the afterguyandlazy guyontotwoseparatewinches. told themtostop.The problemwassolvedbytaking come aftbutthewinchhandlestarted bendingsoI winch handletoourNevinswinch.The poledidn’t big Grenadiansstartedcrankingonthe bigbronze only justbeeninventedandwedidn’thave one.Two spinnaker poleofftheheadstay.”Reaching strutshad Turkey Legsyelled,“Takeintheafterguy togetthe Harbour, wewerechargingalongin a shyreach. fly itasotherwisewoulddraginthewater. foot, andwehadtohave12ormoreknots ofwindto feet toolongontheluffandeight wideonthe spinnaker fromthecatamaran height oftheforetriangle.TurkeyLegsborroweda measured thelengthofspinnakerpoleand didn’t havetimetomeasureallthesails,sotheyjust Turkey Legswasthereagaintoruntheforedeck. sailed theboatup,mywifeTrichandIflew, dents hadareductiononfarewithLIAT.Thecrew tion, asinthosedayspermanentWestIndianresi- you andMissTrichflyup.”Thiswasaviableproposi- there andback.“Skip,wesaildeboatupback; as Icouldn’taffordthetimeormoneytosailherup Antigua Weekthisyear.”Isaidwecouldn’tpossibly, together andsaid,“Skip,wehavegottorace dodge rocks? can aRockPilotearnhiskeepiftheywon’tletyou Sandy Islandbothtostarboard”.Ahellofanote;how next yeartherulesread“leaveSandymarkand about SandyIsland.Theprotestwasthrownout. leave Sandymarktostarboardbutsaidnothing The committeeagreedthesailinginstructionssaid tion, youhaveonlyafifty-percentchanceofwinning.” matter howsureyouareoftherulesandyourposi- words, “What—areyouhereagain?Itisunfair;no was greetedbythelateBobbySymonettewith Warren sentmeintotheprotestcommitteehearing.I country mile. Sandy Islandtoport,whichwedid,andwonbya the sailinginstructions.Weallagreedwecouldleave dubious, butIhadJimandPhil,thefirstmate,check Sandy Islandtoportandgetinshorefast.Warrenwas but themarkwassofaroutofplacewecouldleave leave SandyIslandtostarboardaswellthemark, Island. Ifthemarkisincorrectplaceyouhaveto dure istotackinshoreassoonyoucanclearSandy about SandyIslanditself. “Leave Sandymarktostarboard”—theysaidnothing out toWarrenthatthesailinginstructionsonlysaid headed forthemarkandroundedit.Ithenpointed ized themarkhaddraggedwelloffstation.Weboreoff, that thecoursewascorrect. chart toJimLeonard,Warren’sskipper.verified However, Idouble-checkedthecourseandshowed sailed thiscoursedozensoftimes,itiscorrect.” boats aheadareofftoleeward!”Isaid,“Nuts!I’ve Sandy mark,buthesaid,“Thatcourseiswrong;the War Baby. ing asRock,TideandWindPilotonWarrenBrown’s Week tillmoderntimes.Intheearly1990sIwassail- We didn’twinany prizes, butstilldidourselves Racing fromDickensonBayback to English The WestIndiesRulehadjustcomeintoeffect:they In 1973,myGrenadiancrewandtheirfriendsgot 1973 —BlackPower The protesthearingonlylastedacoupleofminutes. We wereprotestedforleavingSandyIslandtoport. To wintheDickensonBayRace.normalproce- I thenlookedcarefullywiththebinocularsandreal- The missingmarkproblemplaguedAntiguaSailing Sandy Which? I’d givenWarrenthecoursefromJollyto —Continued onnextpage —Continued Stranger. It wasten Iolaire in APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 80th Iolaire’s : at Antigua Sailing Week, Iolaire swan song in Antigua Week. We Compass Iolaire’s went out in style, placing a close third in the Iolaire I think all the old timers would agree that in the old The 40th Annual Antigua Sailing Week runs from 29 April On the day before the regatta I was at the top of the the regatta I was at the On the day before at the Admirals Inn, As we walked onto the patio which we won with one It was a hard-fought regatta, The Good Old Daze We continued to race but in the cruising rather than the racing division, doing moderately well every year. On birthday in 1985 we announced before the regatta that it would be were still competitive in the cruising division, but it was getting too crowded with too many near collisions. cruising division. At the end of five races, we were only three points out of first place. The winner was a brand new Hinckley 42, and in second place was a brand new Shannon 48 which only beat us by one point. days we had a hell of a lot more fun racing in the Caribbean than they have today. We raced hard, but winning was not everything. Some people may dis- agree with me, but I say the “golden years” of Caribbean yachting were from 1955 to 1985 and the most racing fun we had was in the early “daze” of Antigua Sailing Week. to 5 May 2007. For details visit www.sailingweek.com. Antigua he imported crew from both the States and the the States and crew from both he imported Antigua trans- most of their but covered didn’t pay them, UK. He were in while they of expenses and took care portation about We spent me as helmsman. He recruited Antigua. a well- Week, with before Antigua practising four days the foredeck. Watchorn, running Aussie, Geoff known that he would good, but Tony and I said Geoff was damn foredeck boss during Sailing Week — the be number two four days be Turkey Legs. Geoff spent was going to Legs” and grumbling about this “Turkey mumbling and be running the foredeck. why should he up, “The chair when Tony yelled mast in a bosun’s drinks in the — let’s all go have boys have arrived headed to the me down, and as we Ads!” Geoff lowered how he felt he kept on mumbling about Admiral’s Inn foredeck rather than this he should be running the guy Turkey Legs. ran over, grabbed hold of Geoff spotted Turkey Legs, feet, saying, “Pete, Pete, I him and swept him off his What you doing here?” “Put haven’t seen you in a year! “This isn’t Turkey Legs,” Turkey Legs down!” I said. Vandersloot; I’ve known Geoff exclaimed, “this is Pete that it was in fact Turkey him for years!” I told him “Well, if he is running the Legs, to which Geoff replied, at all — I’ll happily be foredeck then that’s no problem “But why don’t you number two to Pete Vandersloot.” I asked. “That’s what know him as Turkey Legs?” “In Europe I’m not everyone calls him.” Pete replied, “Because there I wear Turkey Legs.” “Why?” I asked. ever saw Pete in shorts you long trousers!” Only if you call him “Turkey Legs”. would understand why we which were captured by a second place and four firsts me the most outstand- hair’s breadth. They declared ing skipper of the regatta and gave me a Rolex which I don’t think I deserved, as Turkey Legs ran the fore- deck, Turkey Legs and Pete Bowker worked out the strategy, and Bowker called the close-in tactics. All I did was sit there and twiddle the stick. However, it didn’t matter that I didn’t earn the watch as the damn thing didn’t keep decent time anyway. Readers’ Survey Results rail Curlew … and more! bobstay Iolaire’s BAR • Compass Antares’ , and to race in Bequia Tel: (784) 458-3255 Fax: (784) 458-3824 have a crew of three. Tim : Beautiful Island in Limbo Latest Supercilious Curlew Almost Perfect Hurricane Holes: Bocas del Toro Almost Perfect Hurricane Holes: Bocas Don’t miss Don’t miss RESTAURANT

Read in Next Month’s Read in Next Month’s • his 88-foot gaff-rigged steel schooner,

our famous barbecue and our famous the jump upThursday nights! , a gaff-rigged cutter with topsail, raced in Antares,

HOTEL frangipani E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.frangipanibequia.com The reason for requiring a minimum of crew of three Certain Advantages and also one of the Jol Byerley, a superb seaman Guadeloupe that had a There was also a boat from Three’s a Crowd One year, the 1898 Falmouth Quay Punt At the end of the regatta we were moored stern-to we were end of the regatta At the For Pete’s Sake Nineteen seventy-four saw the first case of skippers was that the previous year the late Arthur Holgate sailed was back in the Caribbean, Tim and Pauline Carr hav- ing sailed her double-handed all around the world. Curlew many areas, and had a locker full of trophies. She won both the Guadeloupe to Antigua Race and the ASW Cruising Division hands down. The only problem Tim and Pauline had was that in Antigua Week, the com- mittee insisted that and Pauline sailed the boat perfectly; they knew exact- ly how they wanted her raced and did not want a third hand involved in the operation at all. But they sailed by the rules: they carried a third crew, who was told to sit in the companionway and do nothing. in Antigua Week with just himself and his partner — short handed to say the least. Something went wrong on the start line one day and hottest racing skippers in the Caribbean, had an unfair hottest racing skippers in the in Antigua asked, “How advantage. His competitors racing on sail trim when do you get your crew to concentrate with his half-dozen ‘witches’ right next to you is Jol’s boat Jol’s crew were all female, sitting on the weather rail?” buxom and topless! always very good looking, very really knew what the hell female foredeck boss who spinnaker changes were she was doing; headsail and she do a superb job on done faultlessly. No only did distracting to other boats’ the foredeck, but she was good looking and her crews — she was extremely entire attire consisted of sailing gloves. and started swinging a great big winch handle around a great big winch handle and started swinging height of the this was at the his head. Remember, by Black movement. “You got beat Black Power Frenchie The Englishmen froze. Power!” he intoned. under Andy’s nose and shoved the winch handle right — a bent winch handle. said, “Watch black power power can bend a winch What else other than black with laughter. The very handle?” and started roaring laughing and invited nervous Englishmen also started a few drinks. Frenchie aboard for more than alongside an English boat which had been chartered boat which an English alongside and his buddies. Copeland skipper Andy by racing and drinking beer their cockpit sitting in They were a hot race boat with our modern “How could moaning: engine- be beaten by a 68-year-old crew from England Indians?” My by a bunch of West less yawl crewed who at the overheard. Frenchie, crewman Frenchie and at this only be described as ugly best of times can look really his head making him point had shaved more ugly, leaned over fierce and even —Continued page from previous importing racing crew from abroad especially to compete in Antigua Week. Tony Lawson had bought a short- rigged Swan 44 called removed bits and pieces from the committee boat. In subsequent Antigua Sailing Weeks, participating boats were required to carry at least three crew. APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationaboutthisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s Captain andChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamworkbetween We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformof a CaptainandChef/Hostess. Email: [email protected] Tel. Office:+2844949261 ,BritishVirginIslands Tortola TradeWinds atHarbourView TradeWinds CruiseClub Simon McDevitt Please emailyourCVandreferencestodayto: with agoodpossibilitytoextendemploymentintothefuture. Position iswellpaidandlastsuntiltheendofJuly Join thefabulouslifestyleofafun&outgoingteaminBelize… YOU BETTERBELIZEIT!! appear in of the Requirements are: Ahoy, Tel. StVincent +7844573407 Tel. StMaarten+5995510550 Caribbean Compass • HoldaUSpassportORhavevalidvisa • Scubacertified • Experiencedinmarinemechanics CREW V email: [email protected] ONE CREWMEMBER FALMOUTH JOLLY HARBOUR ST JOHN’S HODGES BAY or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194,PortElizabeth, bold Compass operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross Jane’s YachtServices Antigua YachtServices Falmouth HarbourMarina Bailey's Cat ClubMarinaOffice Epicurian Paradise BoatSales Anjo Insurance Budget Marine Marina Office Antigua Hotels Paradise BoatSales Epicurian, WoodsMall Island MotorsGasStation Colonna SunsailResort(frontdesk) Caribbean Star & TouristAssociation PICK UP! ): for live-aboardCharterCatamaran! TradeWinds CruiseClub is rightnowlookingfor: [email protected] Readers! WheninAntigua,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines (in theBoatyard) (check-in) at anyoftheselocations(advertisersinthisissue ACANCIES! DOCKYARD/ENGLISH HARBOUR AYC Antigua SlipwayChandlery Sunsail ReceptionOffice Copper &Lumber Bar Skullduggery CoffeeShop Last Lemming&MadMongoose Skullduggery &SeaBreeze AYC MarinaOffice Slipway Chandlery Lord Jim’sLocker Antigua YachtClub cannot avoid arrivingafterdark, theyshouldanchor behindthelastyachts. boats NOTtoenter into themiddleofanchoringareasduring nighthours.Ifthey I leavethesequestions toyoureadersfordiscussion.Answers arewelcome. ram otherboats,do not hesitatetoslipoutoftheplaceunder thecoverofnight. are inconsiderateenough toenteradenseanchoringareaduring nighthoursand appeared duringthenight,andwewere leftwithsignificantdamage.Skipperswho hold ofthatperpetrator.Wehavealready experiencedtwicethattheperpetratordis- you fearcollision.Thenextquestionis, in caseofanocturnalcollision,howtoget off yachtsenteringduringnighthoursif theywanttoanchorsocloseyouthat reasons itisabsolutelyacceptabletodo withoutInternet! side. Nobodyanchorstherebecause isnoInternetreception.Butforsafety yachts forthatnight.Bytheway,inTyrell Baythereislotsofroomatthenorthern shorter trips.Andincaseyouarrivetoo late,then,please,anchorbehindallother close toshore,getthereingooddaylight. Thatmeansleavingportearlierormaking has nothingtodowithseamanship,only withstupidity!Ifyouwanttohaveaplace again whenitwaspitchblack,togettheplacesatheadofanchorage.This same “it’sokay”feeling. “No problem,Ihaveinsurance.”don’tthinktheotherinvolvedownershad the repairs andwon’tbemovingforacoupleofweeks.Maybetheowner sailed onward,whiletheownersoftwodamagedboatsneededtorunaround for of entangled boatdidnotcloseaneyeallnightbecauseofthehorribleconstantnoise left theboattogetaquietsleepinaccommodationsonlandwhileownerof the possibly dangeroustorectifythesituation.Butbareboatersreactedquickly:they entangled boatandintoitsrigging.Becauseofthedarknightitwasdifficult damage didnotstop,becausenowthewindpressed entangled intheotherboat’sanchorchain.There,atleasthisvoyagestopped. But crashed backwardatfullthrottleintotheanchoredyacht. Not knowingwhattodo, an anchoredyacht,whoseownerhadalreadybeenshouting“Don’tanchorhere!” boats —sohehesitatedandthe20-knotwindblew When hewasreadytodropthehook,realizedthattoocloseother bow searchedaroundwithaspotlight,blindingus,andhishelmsmanevenmore. and bulleditswayrightintothemiddleofallanchoredhomes.Theguyon shore lights. many lightseverywhere.Thereisnovisibledifferencebetweenanchorand them haveananchorlight,thearealooksmorelike“theGreatWhiteWay”with see theanchoredboats.IfthereareasmanyboatsinTyrellBay,andmostof think thereislessrollingthere.Thebadthingthatmanyofthemarriveaftersunset. guests orbareboats,wanttoanchorinthefrontquarteroffield.Maybethey night hours. new destinations;inexchange,othersarrivethelateafternoonorevenduring wondered whatwasthemotiveinputtingoutmorechainstepbystep:justtokeep that hewantedtoletoutmorechainagain. chain again,tomaintainourdistance.Afterashorttimeneighbouryelledover because hehadonly18metresout. we weretooclosebecausehewantedtoputoutfivemetresmoreofhischain, to liewellclearofourneighbour.Thentheotherskippercameout,tellingusthat selves abitclosetotheneighbouringyacht.Weletoutanothertenmetresofchain We droppedthehookinfourmetres,letout30metresofchain—andfoundour- Anchoring Habits It wouldbeagoodsolution ifthecharterbaseswouldadvise theskippersoftheir The newbadhabitofanchoringafterdark bringsupthequestionofhowtoward The verynextevening,othercharterboatswerespeedingthroughtheanchorage, Then thewindblew Next morningallhadtogetsortedout. Just recentlyabareboat,we’llcallher There isnosensetomovingavesselaroundananchorageinthedark.Youcan’t It seemsanewbadhabitisdeveloping.Newarrivals,especiallythosewithcharter This wasenoughforus.Wepulledupouranchorandfoundanotherplace. We agreedthat18metreswasinsufficient,anddecidedtoputouttenmore Not longagoweenteredTyrellBayinCarriacou,searchingforaplacetoanchor. Rambo and Questions pressed againsthishull. Rambo

Rambo’s GUY DEAN GUY onto thebowofnextboat,wherehispropellergot helmsman wentfullinreverse,andasaresulthe Rambo Rambo by AngelikaGruener , enteredabayinthelateevening, boats leaveinthemorningfor come andgodaily.Numerous ers forweeks,andmanymore campers” arethereforyears,oth- yachts. Someofthe“water counted morethanonehundred dollar bayfromthehillsidewe Looking downintothatmillion- use ofwirelessInternetatanchor. the southsideofbaytomake Carriacou, mostyachtsanchorin be necessary. chain (onlythreetimesmore)will metres ofwater40to50 chain (tentimesmore),whilein15 will needatleast30metresof ple, inthreemetresofwateryou chain willberequired.Forexam- shallower itis,thegreaterratioof will providesufficientscope.The five timesthewaterdepthinchain nonsense tosaythatthreeup safe atanchor.Itisschool-book chain willbenecessarytostay greater distance? excuse tokeepotherboatsata feel insecure,ortousethislame newcomers busyandmakethem had nearlynodamageandjust At theanchorageinTyrellBay, Real cruisersknowhowmuch Rambo Rambo sideways downtowards onto thebowof Rambo said, APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 S/Y PR2.

by Peter Nuttycombe

— we dine on fresh fish. Our bread-making is down to a fine art — we dine on fresh fish. Our bread-making is down to

Playboys in the Night in the

Sadly, after four weeks, we must move on; our stores are getting low and other Sadly, after four weeks, we must move on; our stores to the wall and all those We pause to thank the little islands, to say good-bye aboard Peter and Robyn Nuttycombe are cruising the Caribbean In the cruising world, as everywhere else, people come and people go; how nice it people come and people world, as everywhere else, In the cruising this beautiful it all is because we have this space to say how nice I will not use ‘We were here!’ Robyn adds to the cruisers’ memento wall at Isla Sur, Las Aves ‘We were here!’ Robyn adds to the cruisers’ memento wall commitments are calling. yachts “passed in the night”. and so what better supper can you have than fresh fish with bread and butter. and so what better supper can you have than fresh fish (January), they are busy making nests and feeding their chicks. But if you happen (January), they are busy making nests and feeding their water and wonderful coral to pass this way, you will also see the brilliantly clear — in exchange for six Cokes teeming with fish. The local fishermen are friendly and and two

is to leave a little memento behind to just say “I passed this way.” Little by little, say “I passed this way.” memento behind to just is to leave a little It is where Isla Sur at Las Aves Barlovento. a wall is being formed on stone by stone, lovely area. to mark their stay in this have taken the opportunity many cruisers for the hundreds of birds. At the time of this writing bay all to ourselves… except For Ships that Pass Pass that Ships For APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 with sixsturdyframes. “neck” and“cork”,itistenmetreslong.Thehullsixcentimetresthick,reinforced a largescrapcylinderfoundatmanufacturingplant.Withtheadded-onfiberglass messages insidethattheythrewoverthesideonpreviouscrossings.Thehullisfrom Margaretha keptthebottleshapeforwatertrip. Atlantic fromNewYorktotheScillyIsles.Whenthatattemptwasditched,Fonsand designed andbuiltbyFonstobreaktheBlueRibbonrecordacrossNorth lowing seas. ple actuallysteeringwiththewheelandusingrear-viewmirrorstocheckonfol- truck sittingonaraftwiththepropellershafthookeduptoengineandcou- made oftwosteelpontoons.ThentherewasthetripfromNewYorktoEuropeina with theinternaltubingremoved.TheyalsomadeacrossingtoTrinidadonraft Bay inajunk-riggedschoonermadefromscrapmetal—shapeofbottle. traveling theAtlanticinunusualcraftwhentheyrecentlyarrivedBarbados’sCarlisle DIFFERENT BOATSFORFOLKS ed on.Italsohasan85-horsepowerNannidieselengine.Themastsarefromrecy- last keelbuttherollingwassoseverethattwostabilizingwingkeelswerelaterweld- Bobbing Along The ideacametothemwhentheyrememberedtheseveralbottleswithwritten The latestmeansoftransportwasactuallybasedontheshapeaflyingboat They werelastintheisland1981aconvertedindustrialboiler,thankfully Fons OerlemansandhiscompanionMargarethaArensliveduptotheirreputationof www.themarinaatportantonio.com [email protected] • VHF Channel16 Contact John Louis •876-715-6044876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe Message InABottle by NormanFaria , asitiscalled,hasalong,one-tonnebal- THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina up’ downbelow Fons don’tseem‘bottled Right: Margarethaand turner inanyharbor Carlisle Bay,isahead- Left: The       Duty Free ZoneinMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton -lift Full ServiceMarina PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON

 Message others, willalsobewrittenaboutthiscrossing. thing onlandinSouthAmerica,”saidFons,addingthatanotherbook,tojointhree have twosons,21and24,backinBelgium. tive qualities,”saidthe69-year-oldFons,anengineeringtechnicianbytrade.They and Iwas,astheysay,successfulinmyapplicationtothisdaystillsuccessful.” woman toaccompanyFonsononeofitsadventures.Iwas61womenwhoreplied carefree andIanswered,don’tknowwhy,anadvertisementinanewspaperfor this timevirtuallynothing.” trips, wesawrowsandofdoradosaroundtheboat,manyseabirds,but were amazedathowlittlemarinelifetheysawonthistrip.Fons:“Onourprevious species suchasbaskingsharksandbluefintunaaredepleted,thecouplesaidthey and Margarethaontheirarrivalofftheeastcoastofislandapreviousvisit. “Rusty” EdgehillandwifeBelina.Rusty,thenacharterboatskipper,hadmetFons While intheisland,theyrenewedacquaintanceswithBarbadiancoupleJohn considering sellingtheboattoabeverage-makingfirmuseinpublicrelations. would comerightbacktothecockpit,”explained61-year-oldMargaretha. back. “Sometimesthecorkatbowwentintoseaand—woosh!water run toBarbados.Thehullwasokaybutthebowconfigurationmayhavekeptthem they hadawonderfulstay.FromtheCapeVerdeislesmadeleisurely,33-day receive anyreplies),thatalsodidn’tpanoutbuttheyvisitedAfricaanywaywhere with theirowneffortsatcommunicationthroughdiscardedbottles(theyneverdid poverty, andtakethemessagestoUnitedNationsheadquartersinNewYork.As countries, collectwrittenmessagesfromschoolchildrenthereurginganendto and strongatbottomthinlighttop.Perfect!”saysMargaretha.) cled utility/lightpolesfromtheirhometownofAntwerpinBelgium.(“Theytaper:big What’s thenextadventure?“Wewanttogetoffwaterthistime;maybesome- “She isawomanofquickdecisionwholikesadventureandhasmanymoreposi- How didtheymeet?Margaretha:“Iwilltellyou.Itwasin1979whenIyoungand Echoing aMarchreportbytheUNbodyFAOthatpelagic(migratoryocean)fish They plantostayinBarbadosafewweeksmullovertheiroptions,including The “message”intheboat’snamewasfromaprojecttotravelWestAfrican Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet , at OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, Introducing theNEW       etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor

Navigating thegood life  APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 NETS DOLLY’S ANSWER 1)2)3) WETS 4) WITS 5) WITH WISH Can you find a faster way with fewer steps? FISH Here’s one way of changing NETS to FISH in five steps.

NORMAN FARIA combines Aluffe . Then, it’s a leisurely sail north High Tech High Aluffe and and Something old, something new…. Something old, something new…. the best of both by Norman Faria by Norman Tradition , and it turned out to be a good choice. I wanted something small because it would be easy , and it turned out to be a good choice. I wanted something

Cornish Guardian

The Achilles 24 was designed by Oliver Lee in 1971 and approximately 600 were made by Butler Mouldings in The Achilles 24 was designed by Oliver Lee in 1971 and Rodney Bay on From Barbados, William was due to head for St. Lucia’s When Cornwall resident William Garnier decid- resident William Garnier When Cornwall ball a traditional mooring Yet, he also acquired tech has worked This mix of tradition and high traditional prac- “I think there is a role for some can some- He agrees newfangled technology to use the black William said he was influenced Aside from installing the new technology after girlfriend, Jacqui, once sailed on one and when we dis- Why did he chose the British-made Achilles 24? “My Mix of of Mix to Antigua in time for the Classic Yacht Regatta where he hopes to sign on as crew on one of the boats. Jacqui to Antigua in time for the Classic Yacht Regatta where was due to meet him in St. Lucia for that leg of the journey. Wales. There is a vibrant owners’ association and the boats have good re-sale value. Wales. There is a vibrant owners’ association and the on my limited budget and the Achilles had a good reputation for blue-water cruising with several making Atlantic on my limited budget and the Achilles had a good reputation who has taken the RYA yachting course. crossings and even circumnavigations,” said William, ed to make a Caribbean cruise, he chose a rela- Caribbean cruise, he chose ed to make a 24 class craft, a fiberglass Achilles tively modern installed 1975. For his trip he also made in self- aids, put on Navik all the latest navigational a satellite phone. steering and carried while at anchor. and gear to rig an anti-drogue a 24-day crossing out well for William, who made Islands. A forestry to Barbados from the Canary had left Cornwall in development specialist, he August last year and the southwest of England in stayed for six months in Portugal. has made things tices. The improved technology are still useful.” easier, but some old-style practices a back-up sextant, times stop working. He has for example. in the rigging in the anchor ball, which is hoisted his father and bows while at anchor, because Navy. We don’t see it brother served in the Royal these days, though too much on cruising yachts on the voyage so far, William says he saw a few astern in Carlisle Bay pointing to another yacht with a smaller one. stainless steel rigging and overhauled the original Petter he bought the boat five years ago, he also replaced the six-horsepower diesel. recommended it. We saw an ad for one in our local paper, cussed a boat about that size for the Caribbean trip, she the DIFFERENT BOATS FOR DIFFERENT FOLKS DIFFERENT FOR BOATS DIFFERENT decisions were to bear off, throw up some sail, then, if we had to, tack back into the islands. Our speed over ground reached levels that caused all on board to smile with the glee that reaches down to the soul of every sailor world- HIGH SEAS BOARDING wide. The course was set and we were heading the right way. The sunset was magnificent, even though we settled in with the fact that we were not going to see Los Testigos. Just as we thought all was in the groove, we encoun- by Cruisin’ Canucks tered a tremendous current giving us a sideswiping drift that was no less than incredible. — continued on next page n the words of a famous songwriter, Margarita is an island that “you can check out, but never Ileave”. I will be able to provide a few wonderful stories in regards to the attributes of Porlamar in sub- sequent issues, but the events of the last journey compelled me to give you a glimpse into some other realities of cruising in the Caribbean. Our original destination, once we had left Cumaná on the Venezuelan mainland, was to be Grenada and our arrival had been delayed by numerous calamities of the mechanical nature. After tremendous amounts of good fortune and drama that only getting work done in Venezuela could provide, we were ready to continue on to the “Spice Island”. Ladyhawke had a few ideas on the best route to reach Grenada. The first option was to bash our way to Los Testigos, rest a day or two, then continue the bash against wind and wave directly to Grenada. The other option we discovered was the coastal Venezuelan route, which involves a quiet day-sail directly towards the mainland of Venezuela. Sail until you are two miles from the coastline, at which point you drop sail and motor parallel to the coast using the counter-cur- rent to nudge you towards a straight rhumb line towards Grenada. At dawn’s early light you just make a hard left turn, put up the sails and, voila, you end up with a nice sail into Grenada. Our decision, based on the weather forecast of calm winds and seas for a four-day period, was to attempt the bash. The coastal route was riveted with cruiser stories of pirate perils which, in reality, had been embellished to a point of a great Disney movie. We headed off towards Los Testigos, leaving at a gentle- man’s time of 3:00AM. With our minds set on a wonderful day snorkelling at Los Testigos and the owner’s desire to just chill and bask in the tropical splendour, the reliabili- ty of the weather forecast came into question very early as It was thumbs up and Grenada bound for our clean ship, but not before… our wind-speed indicator hit numbers over 25 knots. Our APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Ladyhawke We chatted for a fair amount of time and watched and of time fair amount for a chatted We vessel in good time for The results arrived to the and up came the orange We all exchanged good wishes The discussion between the yacht’s crew and owner helplessly as one of the Coast Guard's finest proceed- the Coast Guard's as one of helplessly severe the signs of of us all a demonstration ed to give as he emitted looked glow that The green sea sickness. Poor guy! We all felt for if he’d swallowed a glow stick. what was worse, being him as he probably didn’t know hide it. Both require copi- seasick or trying so hard to ous amounts of energy. interrogation of all of us on them to start their creative in order and board. All was found to be with flying colours, even passed the safety inspection with a Canadian captain! back to their computer- rocket ship to take the officers Cuban cigars was slightly ized haven. Our inventory of and happily depleted as we shook hands signalling the end of our official business on the high seas. after the Coast Guard left was vibrant and spirited. After all, the boarding sure broke up a dull night for us. Our contingent of one American, one British citi- zen and one Canadian all agreed that we were happy that the US Coast Guard was on duty off the coast of Venezuela. All of those folks with stories from other areas of the world complaining about the inconven- ience of a Coast Guard boarding, need to feel the relief and confidence that we carry from this day forth trav- elling in high-risk waters. Thank you and a tip of the hat to the US Coast Guard! May they always be there and never run out of Dramamine. to be drawing to a close and we to a to be drawing 10 waiting for on Channel stood by good-bye, farewell, them to bid us The moments passed adios amigos. the go- and finally we were given ahead by the controller to continue a on our journey. We were making so I am whopping 2.2 knots SOG, that sure they couldn’t be worried 45 kph we could out-run their Perfect floating techno-fortress. was timing for me, as my watch looking ending and my berth was great. …our ‘slogfest’ (left) was interrupted …our ‘slogfest’ visit from the US by a surprise Coasties (right) . They were whisked back to the main ship Thirty minutes into our continued slog, the radio Thirty minutes into our continued drug runner’s point of view, I guess it would be the end be the would it I guess of view, point runner’s drug crew of the vessel, details world. We discussed of the radio with the of identification other aspects and all seemed discussion cutter. The on board the controller This is US Coast Guard. barked to life: “SV Ladyhawke. party!” Out of nowhere, Please prepare for our boarding with all the lights and an orange rocket ship appeared enforcement. Their timing fanfare of high seas law dramatic effect as we had must have been made for which brought torrents of just entered a squall zone rain and a whip of wind which made it a chore for the fellows to board. I can honestly tell you that the pilot earned his money on this manoeuvre. After several attempts all five officers were on board, fully ready for every eventuality of armed combat or high seas rescue. I am sure part of the perks for these guys is the cool gear they get to sport. They were friendly and courte- ous, but no doubt about it, they were all business. They went through the safety systems on the vessel, which was the supposed reason for the boarding, and made a thorough interrogation of myself and the other crew on board. The real reason for their boarding was apparent after all these swabs were taken throughout Ladyhawke for analysis of, you guessed it, “narcotics”! The groove was instantly shattered by a blip on the radar that showed a vessel approaching at tremendous velocity. My watch saw the lights go by, only to reap- pear after arcing around towards us. In a blink of an eye, the cockpit around me erupted with a searing light which caused me to think I was witnessing the end of the world from a safe distance. The voice over the radio announced that it was indeed not the end of the world, but the US Coast Guard. Perhaps from a smuggler’s or course took us to the west of Los Testigos where we hit the course took us to the west of along at 1.5 knots equivalent of a brick wall. Motor-sailing to destinations so far away, and seeing the drift taking us go around the world than try we felt it would be quicker to morning. The best thing and make Grenada by the next it gave me a consistent sup- about this tidal force was that put in the freezer which, in ply of mahi mahi to clean and itself, kept me satisfied to stay out there for 40 days and 40 nights if need be. All on board adjusted to our new real- ity and we set our minds for the “slogfest” towards the islands. The winds picked up again with a force that gave us some exciting moments riding through 15-foot seas. We adjusted accordingly and sailed on. — contiuned from previous page previous from — contiuned Sea! of the Caribbean to the middle on our way We were should that we and decided course corrections We made Our for Grenada. the closest mark it towards just beeline APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Tel: +596(0) 5967480Fax: +596(0)5967479 16 [email protected] Centre deCarenage 97290LeMarin Le Marin • gasstation • tel+fax+internet • water/ice/laundry • deepwaterstern-toberth gas station:(+)596661730 POINTE DUBOUT, MARTINIQUE RESTAURANT e-mail: [email protected] Open 7/7VHF:16/68 CUSTOMS CLEARANCE Tel: (+)596660545 DOCK, BAR Antifouling Epoxy Batteries Marine Paints Plumbing Zinc Anodes IN MARTINIQUE MAINTENANCE BOAT FOR SPECIALIST THE 14˚33N -61˚03W & day wasfull ofgoodfood,great rum,manylaughs and gettingtoknow anewfriend. lunched, overlooking HavredeTrinité,atoneofhisfavoriteseafood restaurants.The we wentpeoplegreeted himwarmly.Hetookustothe places heenjoyed.We sugar caneplantation. HetookustoSainteMariewherehe was raised.Everywhere entire daygivingus atourofhisisland.Wewenttoseveral rumdistilleriesanda at thetopofhill. had neverseenhischurchfromthewater andwasimpressedwithitsbeautysitting Hawaiian shirt.Wehadbaguettes,Brie, pâté,redwineandbarbecueddorado.He remove hispriest’scollar.Hereappeared wearingfloweryswimtrunksanda aboard theboatFatherLucwentbelow tochangeoutofhisblackclothesand and hadadelightfulafternoonvisiting on lunch withus.Heacceptedandthenext daywepickedhimupatthedinghydock just wantedtospendsomemoretimegetting toknowhim. ly didnotcareaboutthelimesbutbythis timeIwasintriguedbytheFatherand ioner hadgivenhimaboxoflimesandwe couldhaveasmanywewanted.Ireal- ity tookagiantstepforward. Luc, ourdebtwaspaid.AllIcansayisthathumbledandmyfaithinhuman- priests andwilloften“comp”themtheirmeals.BecauseweweretheguestsofFather check hasbeentakencareof.”WhatIlearnedisthattheFrenchstillhonortheir communicated, “YouAmericans,youknownothing.”Hesaidinacurtvoice,“The over toourwaiterandaskedifhewouldbringusthecheck.Hegavemealookthat for ustogoandthewaiterhadnotbroughtourbill.Iexcusedmyselfwalked every penny.IthenlearnedsomethingaboutthecultureofMartinique.Itwastime budget forthenexttwoweeksbutbythistimeIfeltmeetingFatherLucwasworth was fabulousandtheconversationnon-stop.Iknewwehadjustblownourfood accepted theoffer,withfullintentionofpickingupcheck. with adecision.IlookedoveratKathyandshesaidhereyes,“Youdecide.” I islands thecostperpersonforanaveragelunchwillrunatleast$25.Wewerefaced like tojoinhimforlunch.AsanycruiserknowswhohasdinedoutontheFrench we cameoutofthebuildingFatherLucwaswaitingforus.Heaskedusifwould office oftourism.Weexpressedourgratitudetohimandsaidgood-byes.When currently theparishpriestofSte.AnneandLeMarin. 30s hefeltcalledtoenterthepriesthoodandreturnhisnativeMartinique.Heis degree inlaw.HehadasuccessfullawpracticeFranceformanyyears.Inhislate loved andthefamilythathim.FatherLucgraduatedfromuniversitywitha education. Everyyearduringsummerbreakhewasabletoreturntheisland Martinique. WhenhewasyearstenoldhisparentssenthimtoPariscontinue Martinique, whenwewerebefriendedbyFatherLucPhilippon.Heisnativeto We discoveredatruetreasurelastyearwhileKathyandIwerevisitingLeMarin, pretty churchatSteAnne(below) train (above).Hisparishincludesthe Father Lucshowedusasugar-cane Two dayslaterFather Lucpickedusupinhiscaratthemarina andhespentthe Before leavinghimthatdayIaskedifhe wouldliketocomeourboatandhave After lunchFatherLucaskedifwewouldmakeonemoretripupthehill.Aparish- Father Lucorderedappetizers,sangria,mineralspiritsandourentrees.Thelunch After alovelyvisitwhilewalkingwearrivedatthemarinabuildingthathoused On thedaywemetFatherLucwerelost—physically,notspiritually.Itwasdur- Treasures comeinmanyforms.Itisnotlimitedtogold,silver,rubiesordiamonds. IN MARTINIQUE TREASURE ALL ASHORE…

by DougBrown DOUG BROWN DOUG must havelookedpatheticbecausehe are lookingforisinthemarinaarea.”We ing for.Hesmiledandsaid,“Theofficeyou his offer.Weexplainedwhatwewerelook- feeling prettystupidandgladlyaccepted any assistancetous.Atthispointwewere out ofhisofficeandaskedifhecouldbe church. Seeingusthethirdtimehecame of thehillveryclosetoCatholic the officeoftourismwaslocatedattop ness ownersdowninthemarinaareathat tourism. Wehadbeentoldbytwobusi- and secondattemptstofindtheofficeof the windowofhisofficeduringourfirst pity onus.Hemusthaveseenusthrough where thechurchislocatedthathetook ing ourthirdtripupthehillinLeMarin down thehill. lunch break.Thenthethreeofusheaded church secretarythathewastakinghis went backintohisofficetoinformthe then said,“Letmewalkyouthere.”He Grano deOro . Assoonaswearrived APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Yachting safety and security must be an inte- Yachting safety and security in the provision Public-private partnerships Units must be Marine Police/Coast Guard to equip Marine Governments should aim unsafe, Cruisers will brand “The Caribbean” must be made Governments and the public Lynne Glasscoe, Chairman of the Safety & Security of the Glasscoe, Chairman Lynne for exam- that currently in St. Lucia, The paper adds included the following MIASL’s position paper • • • • • • As national governments and regional bodies such And as ever, the Safety and Security Net continues meaningful effort.” meaningful of St. Association Industries of the Marine Committee yacht paper that in a position noted Lucia (MIASL), rather anti-crime, at from an must be looked security the legal systems perspective. As than anti-terrorism not differen- Caribbean countries do of many Eastern vessels, commercial and recreational tiate between to new, oner- being subjected “ships” are increasingly are “aimed regulations which, she says, ous maritime — virtually so-called terrorism threat squarely at the address the of measures needed to to the exclusion activity… to threats from criminal clear and present the yachting industry.” within the legal or institutional regime ple, there is no specifically at crime criminal justice system aimed the yachting industry prevention/prosecution within a whole) nor is there a legal (or the tourism industry as Act. definition of “yacht” in any recommendations: measures. gral part of national anti-crime measure to augment of security should be an interim measures. current government safety partnerships. the focal point of law enforcement with required resources to Police/Coast Guard Units rules and regulations. be the sole enforcer of maritime problems. The Caribbean if one, or a few islands have not in blocs. must therefore act in concert, aware of the economic importance of the yachting sec- tor, otherwise none of the above will happen. as the OECS examine data-collecting methods in regard to yacht crimes, and as national legislation is amended to reflect yacht-tourism’s requirements, the private sector remains active, with business associa- tions organizing harbor security patrols with more or less ongoing success, and marinas increasingly advertising gates and watchmen among their essen- tial offerings. to remind boaters that no matter what steps are being taken by governments and businesspeople to help you have a crime-free cruise, it is still wise to “lock it — or lose it”!

OB SERVANT and repair Penn Reels Penn Parts Penn Service capture for the charter yacht, and these ‘yacht days’ must come from each charter company’s booking records. I do think, however, that it is possible to get to this number, and having it will make tracking our progress in combating crime against yachts a more Private sector initiative. This is one of the new security features at the Power Boats yard in Trinidad. Unless you look very carefully, you do not see the track for the fence, which rolls out at 11PM. People call it The Space Chandlery in Bequia The ONLY Duty Free Compass and the subsequent hoses, complete diving, snorkeling and fishing gear. Some people call us the “most interesting shop in the Looking for a table hinge, a hatch spring, or a ladder? Want to catch fish? Get a simple hand line with a lure Diving or snorkeling? We have it all: suits, tanks, belts, lights, sockets, navigation, charts, guides, marine hard- ware, blocks, cleats, SS fasteners, rope, Spectra, pumps, Electronics, marine electronics, 12 & 24 volts, inverters, Caribbean.” Wander around. You will find things you have been seeking for ages. We offer a wide range of hardware as well as necessary accessories and spares. Come to us and get the right screws with it one time. just right for the speed of your boat, or go for a rod and reel to help you win the next fishing tournament. We take pride in sharing our expertise with you because we want YOU to succeed. masks, fins and snorkels. We even have prescription lenses for the masks. Compass

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ous parlons Français Yacht Crime ‘To Do’ List Do’ ‘To Crime Yacht Phone/Fax: 784 458 3360 email: [email protected] Wir sprechen Deutsch N Since our report on yacht-related crime in the on yacht-related crime Since our report First, to provide an accurate perspective on the an accurate perspective First, to provide “in 2002 Grenada “For instance,” Melodye wrote, “The correlation coefficient of ‘yacht days’ is more “While ‘yacht days’ are not difficult to capture for October 2006 issue of October 2006 meeting of law enforcement officials, tourism officials enforcement officials, tourism meeting of law in December 2006 (see and cruisers problem of crime against yachts, the issue of mean- against yachts, the issue problem of crime discussed. At the meet- ingful data collection is being by the Organisation of ing in December hosted (OECS), much of the data Eastern Caribbean States from information collected presented was extrapolated and Security Net, which by the Caribbean Safety radio each morning on meets on single-sideband to accept reports HF8104.0 at 1215 UTC, principally about security issues. and to provide answers Net Controller Melodye Following on the meeting, all attendees, which cau- Pompa circulated a letter to of crimes against yachts tioned that raw numbers location must be bal- reported annually from a given — the number of yachts anced against “yacht days” in order to provide a per day for the entire year— meaningful analysis. a high water mark for all showed 31 reports, which is There were, however, over member states, all years. hurricane season in 500 yachts spending the population comes Grenada… and with increased for a four-month peri- increases in crime (500 yachts od equals over 60,000 yacht days). Similarly, 2004 and 2005 showed, for Grenada, a significant decrease in reports until you recall that those were Hurricane Ivan recovery years, with very few yachts spending the hurricane season in Grenada.… appropriate to normalize this data than yacht arrivals figures…. Yacht arrivals do not include those charter vessels in, for instance, the BVI and St. Vincent & the Grenadines which spend their entire time within terri- torial waters, nor does it allow for long visits such as that described above in Grenada. private cruising yachts (simply the difference between clear-in day and clear-out day), it is more difficult to February 2007), what steps are being taken or con- what steps are being February 2007), threatened the problem which has sidered to address in the important form of tourism the second most Eastern Caribbean? APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 Offshore a good distance we were hit with a serious with a hit we were good distance a Offshore know an owner should confidently After a few years, that old, started to tear. Then the , not all and experience tug- Expecting to make some money With the first dawn and a fresh pot of coffee, I could As I precariously squatted above the seatless bucket Boarding another’s boat you get a real glimpse of electrical storm and then becalmed. Starting the Starting then becalmed. storm and electrical by It was dark bearing screamed. the alternator motor, skip flapping as the the main we drifted with then so he six-hour watch After my uninterrupted slept. Hyde. and Mr. Captain Bligh a combination awoke “It’s a long list of “whys”, I shrugged. After he snarled answer. I’m have been the wrong your boat” must before we hit lashed to the mast thankful I wasn’t Prickly Bay. to Margarita, of his yacht. Crewing the ins and outs day-char- older owner who had been assisting another not always I learned that this might tering for years, famous, but had waited days for that be the case. We was only an “weather window”. It seldom seen, with decent weather. We overnighter from Trinidad watches until dawn sailed downwind doing four-hour motor. Seems the following when he tried to start the with water. It apparently seas had flooded the diesel flow valve for years, had needed some sort of one-way “It always happens”. since this skip nervously said, in Porlamar to anchor?” “How are we gonna maneuver repeated until we reached he constantly and woefully all on the net to be ready VHF range. He then enlisted fendering fleet. It took the to assist with an inflatable that Magellan didn’t have remaining voyage to explain adequate room to maneu- an engine. Luckily we found drop the hook and the ver, fall off, and comfortably sailmaker and mechanic sails as the forewarned rubbed their eager hands together. captain, Tugboat Tim. boat life, I met the most bizarre figure, always adorned in Tim cut a fine, deep-tanned and expensive sunglasses. a different flowered shirt He seemed very successful, always buying the next round, so when he asked about crewing, I affirmed. His tug was a converted supply boat with plenty of power, electronics, and one room that served as galley, salon and bunks with a private head. I was half the crew. It was supposed to be a one-week trip to five islands towing a barge with a crane and a dredge. Tim knew every aspect of his vessel and handled the tug as an appendage. The small aft deck had the tow horns and extra hawsers. Again, no music. What’s with tuneless boats? feel my insides ready to rumble. I started to the head and found the lid sealed with several bands of gray duct tape. Cranky from several hours without his usual ration of grog, Tim grunted that it was out of service. When I offered to do a simple fix, as it was a regular flush toilet, Tim again snorted it wasted too much water and to use the designated five-gallon bucket on the aft deck. I had checked the watermaker when I inspected the engines on my watch, but hey, we could sort it out once what was rumbling inside me was out. and tried to eliminate while the tug pitched through the seas, Tim appeared and wanted to chat. It seems this bucket was part of his particular mystique, and he related how he enjoyed watching people adapt. I don’t think anyone could call me a prude, but “doing my business” is a very private, seldom silent matter. Every time nature called me, Tim arrived simultaneously with stories of friends’ “uptight” wives and business associ- ates leaving his boat constipated. If that wasn’t bizarre enough, Tim wanted to have discussions with the avail- able crew whenever he adorned his throne. that skipper. We all have idiosyncrasies that especial- ly flare if things get tense. Think back on all you’ve crewed for and all who’ve crewed for you. How many were just “full of it”?

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undeniably the best. My first skipper was Imagine Could be because I was a totally ignorant novice One of life’s greatest experiences was sailing under Skips have got to know their boats. You probably know Years went by before I crewed again. People always Years went by before I crewed beam sea with no steadying sail, cheese-spread sand- wiches, no music, and only one shared bunk. He did- n’t even spring for my return airfare. Captain Hope McLawrence in the Carriacou Regatta. His won the round-the-island race that year. The well- used, once-discarded Moorings mainsail on the tele- phone-pole mast, gasketed with a treadless auto tire, pushed the old wood boat to a good lead. Few ever get a feel for real sailing, with basic at-sea manners mixed with stalwart confidence, like Hope. the skip from happy hour, grinning tales of hard rocks and gales, but you’ve never sailed with him. I helped such a buddy get his boat from the hard in Trinidad to Grenada. No big repairs, like replacing the forestay, or engine work, had even commenced before I arrived or until we departed. Suddenly we were leaving, rushing to buy whatever necessities, Immigration, Customs, and fuel dock. He said he had checked the weather. he was named after the great navigator, Colon. No he was named after the great the hook”, he grimaced matter how I phrased “drop Finally we parted com- as if I’d insulted his heritage. me for not tipping a pany after he scolded Venezuelan cabbie more. but I’ve learned say, “No good deed goes unpunished”, a buddy no one else will the hard way to “Never help Hugo annihilated St. help”. A year after Hurricane his single-screw Krogen Thomas, an older skipper took belt to Venezuela rather trawler out of the hurricane premiums. If the than pay the increased insurance to travel with us wasn’t fact that his girlfriend refused than pay” should have enough of a clue, the “rather two days featured a huge given it away. The entire

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you are told, and make do with the accommodations. you are told, and make do than owning, a home, It is sort of like renting, rather Captains are the except you do all the maintenance. to make the voyage safe lords on the water, supposed crew confident and smil- and keep the passengers and shapes, sizes, moods and ing. They come in various are responsible, what mood swings. Because captains and completed just as they ask has to be respected option! they want. Mutiny is not an it as fast and as well as it like a marriage. Listen, do shut, and everything can be done, keep your mouth this might seem to should be harmonious. Although shrewish wife, most often define a relationship with a “honey” but “mother”, that type of captain is not called under one’s breath. hear the orders. We’ve all talk to themselves just to soloed; some like it more than others. To me it is like serving a solitary-confinement prison sentence. A solo circumnavigator once said he liked it because there was never an argument about where to anchor. He’d just divorced before he embarked. ing we tend to value opinions and make cruising almost democratic. I usually offer no opinion, unless the decision is to anchor on a reef. One buddy on a Grenadines trip consistently waited until both of my hooks were planted before ritualistically saying, “I wouldn’t have done that.” because I was a totally ignorant novice, thus Skip was godlike, but I learned a lot. Skip was raised close to my home in the States and the same age. He actually taught a captains’ course so he was skipper, mentor and drink- ing buddy. Navigation, sea conditions, and getting the feel of a vessel were extra-credit courses learned while sailing throughout the Lesser Antilles. Diesel mechanics, sail stitching and DC current, were the “earn as you learn” lessons that finally got me a boat. was democratic until I had to put steward Fast Eddie off the boat for drinking excessive amounts of the guests’ beers. I bow as we rounded Ram’s Head into Coral Bay. thought I knew where the reef was, but it didn’t hurt to have someone watching, only to find out after anchoring the dude was night-blind. thought he was just laid back until I realized he could fall asleep while you were talking with him. He had narcolep- sy, sleeping sickness. At least he wasn’t a sleepwalker. Australia working her way around the globe. As we were about to pick up passengers I found her scrub- bing the head with a toothbrush, my only one. CRUDE CRUDE APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 MI:[email protected] [email protected] EMAIL: We offerthefollowingtours: Located directlyonthebeachat ★ PORTHOLE RESTAURANT &BAR Beachside Terrace -yourBeachside Terrace special place • OFFISLANDCHARTERS, MARTINIQUE BEACHSIDE TERRACE 4 Friday: BBQDinner&ExtempoCalypsonian Wednesday: SteelBandMusic Monday: GrenadaBuffet&CrabRaces The homeofGrenada’sLongestHappyHour!! A friendlyatmospherewhereyoucansitandmeetpeople. PM Noelina &LennoxTaylorwelcomeyou! Come andfindusamongstthetrees! in Grenada for funandfinefood & ShorelineMini-Market Information &Reservation:(473)444-4247 Cocktails ***RelaxationParties • DAY SAILING•SUNSETCRUISES Fun SailTours PLEASE RESERVE! Contact usforinformation orreservation: -7 Monday toSaturday Candelight Dinners RESTAURANT &BAR PM E:1-758-452-8490 /1-758-713-4205 TEL: Located at Open Daily6:00 & 11 • PRIVATE CHARTERS Admiralty Bay,Bequia Pool ***SportsTV Tel: OR TOBAGO CAYS OPEN until3 nLwrBy Bequia in Lower Bay, Tel: (473)444-4247 PM ( -midnight (50%offalldrinks) The FlamboyantHotel 784 ) We servebreakfast, lunch anddinner AM 458-3758 AM The FlamboyantHotel Phone (784)458-3458 – 10:30 Daily VHF CH68 St. Lucia PM on apier. approaching disasterwasaconcernedmotherpacing already givenwaytoduskandtheonlyhintof site shorecouldbarelybeseen,fordaylighthad branches andshingled,terra-cottaroofsontheoppo- frosted windowpane.Theoutlineofthecoconut evening palethewateracquiredappearanceofa not somuchasarippleonthewater.Inearly blue whenandwhereverBennystruck. been forecast.Consequentlyitwaslikeaboltfromthe nomenon, butonthelengthoftimeitsarrivalhad fashion, theheateddebatewasnotonBennyphe- escaped theserpent’scoils.IntypicalWestIndian in comingthateachislandsecretlyhopedithad strike; onlythatBennywasontheway.Solongit pounding andsmashingeachwithamightyseasurge. without wind,Bennyslowlylashedislandafterisland, Pushed byastrongundertow,butphenomenon ward alongthewesternshoresofislandchain. channel atthemarinaendofbay.SurelyIwould is thesamewaterwhichflowsfromseathrough it’s notevenanovercastday.Thebayissocalm.This through thewide-openterracedoor,Lynnereasoned, both thepierandtelevisionsetinherlivingroom from whereshecouldview,withatwistofherhead, once beenabeach. ating aten-footmurkyblackpoolwheretherehad yards backtowherethelocalboysplayedfootball,cre- Station mooringforseaplanes.Thesandwasthrown front oftheramp,remnantanoldUSNaval had completelyremovedeveryounceofsandfromin and lobby,kneedeepinwater. and staffbusilymoppedupthebeachfrontrestaurant The picturesportrayedaruefulsightashotelguests race oftheRoyalHotelevincedserpent’sstrike. wide crevicesfilledwithwaterattheformerbeachter- Rodney Bay,largeslabsofprotrudingconcreteand ing homesandbusinessplacesinitspath.Innearby and crossedroads.Waterflowedfarinland,inundat- damages. Inlow-lyingareasBennyswampedbeaches, mark. Newscastersreportedmillionsofdollarsin shore, fromsouthtonorth,Benny’ssurgehadleftits early eveningnewstelecast.Allalongthewestern tion onlybecameawareofBenny’spresenceviathe which theseasurgehit.Mostofisland’spopula- docked, andBennyhadarrived. pier thatnight.Yousee,hersonValhadnotyet racing hearttherewerenolightsontheAdmiralQuay up. Thelightsalongthequaywereon.ButinLynne’s been outforthedaywerealreadyhoseddownandtied • Visa/MasterCardaccepted • Activitydesk(Tours, diving andwatersportactivities) • Lightboatrepairand cleaning • Yachtchandleryagents ofBudgetMarine • Telephone&internet WIFIconnection • Garbagedisposal • Cleanrestroomsandshowers • Bakery • Ice&Provisioning(Grocerystore) • Nightsecurity • Securedmoorings • Nearbylaundryservice • Dinghydock • Fuel(MarineDiesel)/Wateratthedock • DinghyBar S Quiet andstillnessprevailedinSt.Lucia.Therewas No oneknewtheexactdayorhourBennywould Positioning herselfonherpostage-stamp-sizedlawn, Onward thecamerarolled.NexttoRoyal,sea The eveningcalmmaskedthedestructiveforcewith Those speedboatsandotherpleasurecraftthathad & soonMercuryMarine the coastofCentralAmerica,streamedsouth- Caribbean Sea,adeviousserpent,spawnedoff lithering andwrigglingalongthebedof ‘ BENNY [email protected] www.dominicamarinecenter.com Capitainerie Tel:+7672752851 THE CITYOFROSEAU UNIQUE INDOMINICA VHF: 16WorkingCH:19 Fax: +7674487701 SITUATED IN fiction byJ.Wynner and spokewithhisparents. not seeVal’sdinghyinthebay.” “The MarinePatrolsaidtheseaisverybad.Theydid band's chest.Shecried,“Haveyouheardanything?” cried out,“Val,isthatyou?” peered towardanapproachingfigure.Hopefullyshe before sunset.WherethehellisVal? ed. blot hermind,butstillthefrenziedquestionpersist- head andsqueezedthepalmsagainsthertemplesto continued patrolling,sheraisedbothhandstoher black clouddescending,clampingherdown.Asshe Croft beckonsatsix.” island foranhour,twoatthemost.Remember,Lara “Oh well,it’sashortride.Wewouldonlylimeonthe a bitofswell,”andgivinglittlesighhecontinued, “Not tooblue?Youmeannotahintofblue.Butyeah, “The seanottoobluetoday,noritsusualflatself.” straight blackhairfromhiswideforehead,grumbled, sun hidbehindacloud.Sachin,brushingasidehis na’s narrowchannel. skimmed easilythroughthepewterwaterofmari- dinghy pushedbyafive-horsepoweroutboardengine imminent undercurrent.WithValatthestern, homes alittleaftermid-afternoonwithnoideaofthe tomary 15-minuteboatridefromtheirwaterfront Noelle, andknewthatherchildrenwerepricelessgifts. daughter wasbornonDecember24,shecalledher Lynne hadeverreceived.Twoyearslaterwhenher 14, wasthemostpreciousValentine’sDaypresent Holmes incommemorationofbeingbornonFebruary in themidstofallthis.Val,namedValentinePaul the pier. the boy’sdestination.Sheflewfewstepsdownto into theSnootyAgoutibeachsiderestaurant. floating inthesea,andwaterrushingallway television. Thecamerapannedremainsofthejetty was totallydestroyed.Lynnefocusedhergazeonthe her earagain,reportingthatthepieratPigeonIsland of thelagoon.ThenvoiceTVanchorcaught wind perhaps. level, capsonthewater,alittleroughness,orsome have noticedadifferenceinthebay,risewater New Location at GingerbreadCafé He triedtellingher,“IranacrosstoSachin’shome Paul triedtobreakthenewsasgentlyhecould. “No, no,notyet,”shepoundedherhandsonhus- “Come inside,Lynne.You’reshivering.” “Any word?”shewhispered. “No, Lynne.It’sme,Paul.” Suddenly, afallingpalmbranchstartledher.She Looking towardsthechannel,allLynnefeltwasa Val studiouslylookedinalldirectionsandreplied, As theyprogressedintoopenwater,thelateafternoon The boyshadsetoffinVal’sdinghyontheircus- Val andhisfriendSachinweresomewhereoutthere Then Lynne’spanictrulysetin.PigeonIslandwas Lynne continuedlookingoutquizzicallyatthewater Where's Val?Heknowsthatheshouldbehome Tel: (784)4583041 BEQUIA —Continued onnextpage —Continued ’ APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 SS SS EE EE EE EE CC CC

II up to II UU UU 14 kg VV VV QQ QQ RR RR II II ¤ EE EE NN NN ¤ SS II SS II

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Tel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 Tel: Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: ( SAT - MON or we'll do it for you - 7kg = 11.00 www.acyachtbrokers.com - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) - Fishing Items - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm to Friday 8-12am Open Monday Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication) Sails & Canvas E-mail: [email protected] Close to Marina Bas-du-Fort - Pointe à Pitre Dutch – English – French – German spoken • Open Monday to Saturday • Pick up and delivery from 7 Kg in Le Marin & Sainte Anne • Do it yourself laundry for 7/8kg = 6.00 Voiles Assistance Voiles Port de plaisance du MARIN S C H I P - O - C A S E LAUNDRY DIAKA • LE MARIN • MARTINIQUE Your Caribbean Marine Flea Market Your A&C YACHT BROKERS Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN Carenantilles Dockyard Oh God, I hope a Oh God, he thought. Then he heard Then he he thought. Down Island Ltd www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale We also handle Villa Rentals & Rentals also handle Villa We For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at or contact Carolyn e-mail: [email protected] Property Management on Carriacou Management Property Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 Tel: CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE Lynne awoke with a start, screaming, “The siren!” “What siren?” he mumbled. “Don’t you hear the siren?” she kept repeating. Paul pushed back the pillow that was over his head “So early?” said Lynne. “What time is it?” he asked. Lynne looked at the clock on the bureau and said, Just then the phone rang and Paul reached to his Paul finally gave a sigh of relief saying "Thank God," He put back the receiver on its cradle and held her And the surge, the serpent that was Benny moved on, Sachin turned around in the path, missed his foot- missed in the path, around turned Sachin “It is pier-pacing vigil continued. Meanwhile, Lynne’s sleep.” “No, I’m waiting for Val. I cannot sea, the water is kick- “But he won’t come from the www.caribbeancompass.com tree has broken his fall, broken his tree has She nudged Paul, “Don’t you hear the siren?” and listened, “Oh, that’s on the opposite side of the bay, on the highway.” “Half six.” bedside table and picked up the receiver, “Yes, Holmes here,” and then there was a long silence as Paul sucked in his breath and listened, his face growing paler. After a while he asked, “But are they all right?” And again he held his breath while Lynne screamed, “What’s wrong? Tell me what’s the matter with them?” knocking over her bedside lamp in her hysteria. over and over and over. close. “They are okay,” he whispered. Lynne sobbed uncontrollably, her tears of relief running down his chest. “That was the park warden of Pigeon Island,” he continued. “They spent the night on the island. Sachin fell over the cliff and in going to rescue him, Val twist- ed his ankle. They found them about 15 minutes ago. The siren you heard was the ambulance taking them to hospital — collarbone, rib cage, and kneecap injuries plus a few other broken bones and some bruises here and there, but they will live. We’ll get all the details when we see them.” its coils carrying what was left of the boy’s boat out to sea. ing and downward he went. Val’s white face became went. Val’s downward he ing and narrow over the friend plummet as he saw his whiter a sharp thud. then he heard ledge, can Sachin called out, “Sachin, and a whimpering ear in the He put his hand to his you hear me?” had landed where he thought Sachin direction of down on a sound. He began sliding but heard not and then he “Sachin!” he called again his buttocks. old buddy. grunt. “Keep grunting, heard another find you.” That way I will “Lynne, Paul called from the patio. nearly midnight,” with her. some sleep,” he tried reasoning come and get lie down,” he pleaded. ing. At least come inside and you.” And going into the “I’ll get something to relax a few minutes with a glass kitchen, he emerged after had emptied the pulver- of warm milk into which he pills. “Sip this,” he ized contents of two sleeping he led her into the house coaxed. About an hour later and up the stairs to bed. nor its usual flat self’ nor its usual The sea not too blue today, The sea not Bob Goodchild Accredited Marine Surveyor

RYA (Commercial) Ocean Yachtmaster Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors Accredited Marine Society of

Tel: Grenada (+1 473) 407 4388 [email protected] Marine Surveyors, Grenada Accreditation - American Boat and Yacht Council Yacht and American Boat Accreditation - PURCHASE – INSURANCE - DAMAGE “Yes,” Lynne replied, “but a cook-up for pleasure is “All the more reason for a cook-up,” Paul quickly replied. “Do you think they will find them, Paul?” Paul quivered as he replied, “Yes.” But Lynne was still hearing, “The sea is very bad”. Nearing the Pigeon Island landing, Sachin, perched “Tie it to the pier,” Val quickly answered. “Don’t “Swimming after a boat in this swell would be no “Yeh, yeh,” sing-songed Val. “Hurry up, let’s get to They followed the winding pathways upwards to the “What you mean?” Sachin hollered back. “Well, there’s not a single person on the paths today. They said that the boys told them they would be they would boys told them that the They said do you come back before dark. Paul, “They always the rain- their trek through “I think so. Remember a guide, were in a group, with “But then they “they can more than “Lynne,” Paul reminded her, Marine Survey throughout the Caribbean Flyingfish Ventures Ltd that they could exit the island from the causeway.” far different than a cook-up for survival.” in the bow, turned and asked, “Should we pull up on the beach or tie the boat to the pier?” want a repeat of our Easter adventure.” The memory of that time, when they did not pull the dinghy far up enough from the high-water mark, and the incoming tide beat them to the boat, and dragged it into the bay, was still very fresh in his mind. fun,” Sachin teased. the saddle and get back down before the sea becomes too rough.” first lookout at the western end of the island with their backs to the sea. They retraced their steps a little way down and then they were in the saddle, as the wide area sloping upwards from the island’s western side to the eastern point is called. “Race you to the point;” Sachin challenged, and immediately both boys increased their pace. When they got to the point and were halfway up the single file path, Val, who was behind, called out, “Notice anything?” And look over your shoulder and see Rodney Bay.” —Continued page from previous the six to go to they wanted five because back by but as we are, are just as worried movie. They o’clock bad” “the sea is very But only keeping faith.” they are with Lynne. resonated change- boys could handle think two fifteen-year-old conditions?” able weather the night got lost? They had to spend forest when they they? Well, didn’t they?” in the open, didn’t neverthe- inexperienced guide, a guide although an is no one else the boys are now, there less. Wherever to eat and did not carry anything with them. They the sea?” And she shud- what if they are drifting in in the sea. dered at the thought of them in mind all that swimming fend for themselves. Bear don’t forget the hiking and and boating they do! And fit. I think they are still on football! They are perfectly places to take refuge, the island. There are enough breadfruit and roast it; you and they can always find a cook-up. Another plus is know how they enjoy a good APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 21) TAT 20) TARRED 17) TAUNT 14) TAINTS 13) TAPERED 12) TEND 10) TACTICS 9) TARIFF 7) TUT 4) TRAITS 3) TALKING 1) TANGLE ACROSS Crossword Solution a beattowindward. even keel,anditwillseemthateverythingyoutrybe the 18th. interests maydistractyoufrombusinessconcernsaround across toothers.Trysignalflagsperhaps? tack youtake.Thisaspectshouldsailawayearlynextmonth. and clearskies. love lifeshouldshowsignsofpickingupfavorabletides. and eventuallytheywillcometoseethingsyourway. of theoppositesexthismonth.Juststicktoyourcourse making newcontactsandexploringideas. prospects. Useyourcreativeflairtobestadvantageby cal tasksaboardinsteadofmentalones. Make thebestofitbyconcentratingoncompletingphysi- you willhavelittledirectionandfeelblowntofro. you thismonth.Perhapsasolosailwillraiseyourspirits. next threeweeks. Make themostofthisaspect. of businessorfinance,withthehightideon19th. You mayfindithardtokeepyoursenseofhumoronan Do yourbesttostayontherhumbline,aslove You mayhavedifficultygettingyourcreativeideas It lookslikeyouwillmeetwithoppositionnomatterwhich This monthwillbemellowsailingforyou.Smoothseas Although communicationsmaybecomegarbled,your You maymeetwithcontrarycurrentscausedbymembers This shouldbeagoodmonthformarinebusiness You willfeeltherisingwindsofenergyafter9th.But Members oftheoppositesexmaypresentillwindsfor As loveinterestsebb,yourcreativitywillflowforthe This shouldbeaproductivemonthforyouontheseas APRIL 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 5) TALE 4) TAIL 3) TAUT 2) TAFFRAIL 1) TAKE DOWN 27) TAKINGIN 26) TOT 25) TAR 24) TACKLE 23) TANGO 22) TANKS 19) TARGET 18) TATTOO 17) TACK 16) TALLANT 15) TARPAULIN 14) TABLE 12) TEAK 11) TARBRUSH 8) TARP 6) TANNED I’ve startedsolate… I’ve onlyonelifetime. So manybeachesofcrystalwhitesand. So manyislands,sobays, So manybeautifulcreaturesinthesea, So manystarsintheclearnightsky, How doyoucountwhentherearesomany? The calmandquietofsunriseinthebay. The windinthesailswithwheelyourhands, The coolimmersionintothesea, The caressofthesoftbreezesonyourskin, How doyoudescribethefeelings? No poemcanprojectthedepth. No cameracancatchthecontrasts. No artistcanmixallthepigments. The shadesofblue,thegreen… How doyoucapturetheinfinite? LISTEN UP! And cherishmeandmyfamily I’m askingeveryonetocareforthesea and everythinginthesea. Others wanttodestroyme Some wanttoeatme. Even usemeintheirmovie, They wanttocatchme, Many don’twantmetobe, Who goesanywhereIwish. I’m adolphin No onecansay“youcan’t”; I swimwhereverwant How DoIExplain? — DillonOllivierre Island Poets — JohnRowland And livelikepaupersandstillbehappy So let’ssailawaytoaplacewherewecanjustbe Deep andwide We’ll travelthelengthandbreadth, And feelthefireinotherside We’ll lookforhelldownunder All thiswecando—yourwishismywill Into theearth’scorelikeanoildrill Way pasttheclay,waybay Let ussailaway In searchofwhateverthereistobefound And we’lllookdown And fillthewindwithlaughter High abovethewaters (for weareinlove) On thewingsofadove Let ussailaway the landofmybirth And lookdownonearth Past Plutoifyouwish On mygravity-shipAtlantis to thestarsifyoumay Let ussailaway Let’s SailAway

— KedishaCompton LOULOUNE APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

[email protected] Solution on page 36

— parlumps marooned parlumps Nautical Alphabet: Alphabet: Nautical Time for ‘T’ for Time ACROSS or they’ll do this 1) Make up lines 3) Having a gam are these weatherliness and crankiness 4) In sailboats, sound for a king? 7) Disparaging cargo e.g. duty to be paid on 9) Table of charges, 10) Racers use these and strategy 12) Take care of decrease weight aloft 13) A mast has this shape to 14) Contaminates 17) “All-a-_____-o” means shipshape 20) Some marline is this 21) You can get a tit for this 22) Containers for liquid radio speak 23) This puzzle’s subject in 24) Block and _____ 25) Old word for deckhand 26) Short drink (two words) 27) Reefing or lowering sail DOWN wrong side of sail 1) ____ aback, let wind get on 2) Aftermost rail sail are 3) What sheets on a well-trimmed 4) Rope end 5) Yarn 6) Treated, as leather 8) Short for 15 Down 11) Tool for painting ratlines 12) Hardwood used for decks, etcetera 14) Tide guide 15) Waterproof canvas cover 16) Upper break of 17) Change course through the wind 18) Body art on 25 Across 19) In a yacht race, the finish line is your ______2 rossword 14 15 45 C 6 12 20 21 ruising ruising Caribbean Compass 2007 © C NOW AVAILABLE! 1 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Join our growing list of on-line Same price, same content — faster delivery! Same price, same content — faster ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS 17 19 18 3 10 11

ompass 13 78 9 16 25 26 27

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22 23 24 C APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © as anexample. lot ofcreaturesthat they weren’tactuallyfishingfor.Let’slook atbeamtrawling tom aswelltaking alotof more fishinthesea?”Well,that’sjustnot trueanymore. ronment andonfishstocks.Doyouremember theoldsaying,“There’splenty haps introduction ofnewtechnologies,modern fishingmethodsareveryefficient,per- fishing methodsinto12categorieswhich werelistedherelastmonth.Withthe DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Our AdvertisersSupport Please SupportThem. The mostdestructivemethodsoffishing are thosewhichdamagetheseabot- The FoodandAgricultureOrganization(FAO) oftheUnitedNationsclassifies too efficient, assomeofthemarehavingvery harmfulimpactsontheenvi- Hel the lo! M Compass… y n a

m PROUDLY SPONSOREDBYPETITST.VINCENTRESORT by ElaineOllivierre e

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e guardian ofalltheforestcreaturesinrainforestclosebywhereshehadlivedherquietandpeacefullife. stayed withMamaStephanieuntilthedayshedied.Forherreward,PapaBoismade the wholevillagewasamazedandwantedtothanksoucouyant,butalastheycouldn’tfindhersecret piness andledtheboyhissisterbacktovillagebyshortestpathsheknew.WhenJimtoldstory, see thatkind,sweetsoucouyantsmilingatJimandAngythenshebobbedaboutasifdoingadanceofhap- smiled whenshesawthatitwasJimwhoheldhersotightandwentrightbacktosleepagain.Youcouldalmost where thesoucouyanthadstopped,sureenough,therewasAngy. The balloflightstoppedbythebuttressrootsabigforesttreeandthenhoveredcloseby.WhenJimlooked soucouyant couldbeleadinghimdeepintotheforestjustoutofevilspite,buthewasbraveandkeptongoing. low, andwhenhedid,ontheballoflightbouncedagain.OfcourseJimhadhisworries,knewthat ground andwatchedasthebeautifuldancinglightbobbedoffintoforest,waitedifheweremeanttofol- and ranfortheirlives.ButJimwasnotgoingtoleavehisbabysisteroutintheforestallnight,sohestood to showthemtheway,butassoonsearcherssawbrightballoflighttheyshouted“SOUCOUYANT!” a tallforesttree.MamaStephanieflewbacktoJimandthemenshedancedaboutinfrontofthem,hoping forest atlightningspeedandsureenoughshefoundAngycurledup,fastasleepbetweenthebigbuttressrootsof Stephanie, beingverycarefulthatnoonewouldseeherflyingoutofbedroomwindow,traveledovertherain- that ifthemendidn’tfindher,shewould. she hadalwayswantedtodosincewasalittlechild.WhenMamaStephanieheardaboutAngydetermined found herselfasoucouyant.AllMamaStephaniedidwastoenjoyflyingabouttherainforest—something But MamaStephaniewasnotlikethat.Shedidsellhersoultothedevil,onenightshesimplywokeupand on itandwhenthesoucouyantreturnsbeforecockcrowclimbsintohersaltyskinshewillbedoneforgood! finds ababy,thenshewilldrinkitsblood.Oncesoucouyantisknown,youjusthavetofindtheskin,rubsalt can climboutofherskinandbecomeaballlight.Underthisdisguisethesoucouyantroamsaboutuntilshe is, letmetellyouthatitisanevilcreatureindeed,avillagewomanwhohassoldhersoultothedevilsoshe ends oflongsticks,dippedtheminkeroseneandlitthem.Theyburnedbrightlightedtheirwaythroughtheforest. time theyhadeaten,itgrownquitedark.Flambeaux—that’swhatneeded,sowrappedragsaboutthe Angy shewailedwithanguish.Jim,beingthe“manofhouse”,organizedasearchvillagemenandby that SoniaranallaboutthevillagelookingforherbabyandwhenJimEldiracamehomefromschoolstillno she lookedallaboutthegardenandthensawOPENGATE.“Oohmegod!Angygone!”Theupshotofthiswas ried off,sodidAngyandfortunatelythelizardledhertoasmallpuddleofclearwaterbyrootsanoldtree. to seewhatshewanted,pickedherselfupandlookedforthelizardagain.Itwasstilltherewhenithur- before longshewascompletelylost,tiredandthirsty.Angysatdownwherecried.Whennobodycame lizard dartacrossthepath.Shefollowedlizard,watchingitcatchlittleantswithitslong,quicktongueand that ledtotheschool.Angyquicklyforgotaboutbigboysandgirlsbecauseshesawaprettygreenbrown go andwhenshecametoasmallpathleadingoffintothecoolforesttookitinsteadofkeepingroad to thegate,throughitandondustyroad.Shehurriedafterbigchildrenasfastherlittlelegswould was OPEN!SuchaninvitationcouldnotbeignoredandAngygotupontoherstronglittlelegstoddledover Angy couldstillhearthemandshewantedtogotoowhenlookedup,expectingseethegateclosed,it and hurriedofftoschoolSoniacalledout,“Makesuredegateclose!” Sonia wasbusyinthehouse,AngyplayinggardenandwhenJimEldiragrabbedtheirschoolbags it, sprangrightbackopenthemomentyourwasturned.Thisisjustwhathappenedthatawfulmorning. ing tofixthatgardengateforages,ithadoneofthoseannoyinglatchesthat,onceyouthoughtclosed young togothevillageschoolwithJimandEldirabutonemorningshehadherchance.Soniabeenmean- village ontheedgeofrainforestdeepinheartSt.Lucia.AsAngywasonlythreeyearsoldshetoo

i THE END Jim criedafewtearsofreliefandhappinesspickedupthesleepingchildinhisarms.Angyopenedhereyes, So themensetoffandtheycouldn’tfindAngyanywherebecauseweregoinginwrongdirection.Mama Now, wecometooldMamaStephanie.Shewasasecretsoucouyant…andifyoudon’tknowwhatsoucouyant Back home,SoniawentoutintothegardentopickupAngyandtakeherformorningnap.ShecalledbutnoAngy, Jim andEldiraranoffdownthedustyroadtocatchuptheirfriendsweresoonoutofsightbutbaby Angy wasthebabyoffamilyandshelivedwithhermotherSonia,brotherJimsisterEldirainasmall Caribbean Folktales:

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e a The GoodSoucouyant to allowbabyfishpassthrough.Noisy is beingtowed.Thismeansthatfewerfishwillbetangledupinit. than theusualdiamondmeshbecauseitdoesnotcloseupsoquicklywhenanet be usedtomakeupanet.Squaremeshwouldmoreenvironmentally-friendly unwanted species?Mostcountrieshavelawsrelatingtothesizeofmeshthatcan Union waters. sive amountsofby-catch.Forthisreason,driftnetsarebannedinEuropean Some driftnetsmeasureovertwokilometresinlengthandtheytootakemas- destroy marinehabitatandtheytakelargeamountsofby-catch. to afisherman.So,thebeamtrawlnetsdotwothingswhicharedamaging:they But iftheydieinthenet,cannevergrowtoasizewhichwouldbevaluable the net.Manyofmarinecreaturescaughtinthiswaywillbetoosmalltouse. These stirupmarinelifefromtheseabedsothateverythingwillbecaughtin drags alongtheseafloor.Sometimes,netsalsohavechainsatfront. their path.Themouthofthenetisheldopenbyabeamwhich,atlowestlevel, different levelsunderthesea.Thenetslooklikebagsandcatcheverythingin We’ll lookatthosenextmonth. nated asno-fishingzones. would helptodecreaseby-catch.And,of course,areasoftheseacouldbedesig- sound theygiveout.Timerestrictionson howlonganetmaybeleftoutatsea to keepawayturtlesandmarinemammals suchasdolphinswhodon’tlikethe Trawl netsmaybeimprovedbyinsertingsquaremeshpanelsinthemiddle Can anythingbedonetoimprovefishingnetssothattheycatchfewer Drift netsareleftintheseaandallowedtodriftwithcurrents. Boats calledtrawlerstowhugenetsbehindthem.Thecanbetowedat By changingoneletter atatime,howmanystepswillchange NETStoFISH? Word Puzzle What aboutfishingmethodsthatdon’t use nets?Aretheydangeroustoo? CRUISING KIDS’CORNER by LeeKessell pingers placed inthenetsmaybeused — Answeronpage27 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 was Wild Scud charged the , our 44-foot St. , our 44-foot Scud Scud sneaking up close behind. She’d gained the advantage when sneaking up close behind. She’d gained the advantage , a formidable prey. We’d stolen their wind! (There would be hell to pay , a formidable prey. We’d stolen Wild Leopard by Tina Dreffin trumpeted in large golden letters across her quarters. trumpeted in large golden letters

“Why haven’t we caught one yet?” I asked Adam, our handsome 17-year-old son Adam, our handsome 17-year-old we caught one yet?” I asked “Why haven’t we snagged seaweed,” he said inattentively. Odd. “I’ll check the lures, in case of animatedly, as he appeared in the open doorway “Sweet!” Warren exclaimed his gaze — my eyes danced with merriment. Turning forward, I followed We were on passage from St. Martin to St. Lucia aboard from St. Martin to We were on passage ”When we reach port, guys,” I said, “we’ll invite them to join us.” Two beauties at ”When we reach port, guys,” I said, “we’ll invite them My husband, Peter, a stealthy tactician, tightened his grip on the helm to out- My husband, Peter, a stealthy other sugarscoop to join Adam, as Warren launched onto the Once coming abreast of the cat, the boys languished astern; sun glistened off their Once coming abreast of the cat, the boys languished astern; Did you do the chat?” “Hey guys,” I said merrily, “you know — dinner. A fish? hunting precepts Their high school courses had included the philosophical cobalt-blue sea, we “pushed” So we gave it a go: Gazing into the azure blue sky and Very soon, though, the After our little “chat” we forgot about it, and Pink Bikini. shared). I spoke gently to Once aboard, its size was impressive (and meant to be the photo. In the viewfinder, Adam proudly held up our prize on the stern, as I shot and official angling expert. Both he and his brother, Warren (age 16), were reared in Both he and his brother, Warren (age 16), were reared and official angling expert. are famous for their hand-crafted lures constructed the Caribbean on boats, and bags foraged from island markets. from pink and yellow plastic on the status of his rig — the set and proper boat Normally, he’s intensely focused speed to land a fish. our cockpit. Francis performance catamaran. And we still hadn’t snagged a fish after an entire still hadn’t snagged a fish catamaran. And we Francis performance of our diet, being and rice are the norm waiting, waiting. Beans morning of waiting, a big one! and green stuff — we wanted but enough Mexican largely vegetarian, The Distracted Zen of Fishing of Zen Distracted The the table are far better than one. we’d slowed to land the fish. As they passed, Adam held aloft his prize — they explod- we’d slowed to land the fish. As they passed, Adam held grin split his face in two. ed in applause and Pink Bikini waved earnestly. Adam’s maneuver and overtake her. Sheets were tweaked, as his eyes twinkled with the Sheets were tweaked, as his eyes twinkled with maneuver and overtake her. or a TEN!” the guys chorused together. (The cat thrill of the chase. “She’s definitely the pink bikini, I wondered!) approaching a charter cat; on the stern gracefully posed a “sheila” clad in an itsy- approaching a charter cat; bikini, combing her blond hair. Long tendrils streamed bitsy-teeny-weeny, neon pink the cat gently lurched forward in the light chop. behind her in the breeze, as Leopard Wild Leopard toned bodies, earned from years of challenging watersports. They were posing for toned bodies, earned from years of challenging watersports. of the young! (I made sure Pink Bikini, angling this way, then that! Ah, the antics our way.) Soon, we left the Peter focused on the helm, and not the sex bomb flashing we plunged forward, passing charter cat in our wake, floundering in dead air, and verdant Pitons. scenic coves fringed in palms, silhouetted against towering They teach one to culti- acquired from Buddhism and the North American Indians. Mother Nature, then apol- vate compassion for all animals, to ask for your gift from ogize to the kill when acquired, thanking it for coming. We promised to follow the forward loving intent, asking for a fish to feed our family. until landfall, catch only universal laws of protecting the oceans: save our trash — the dour smiling groupers, legal-sized fish. We whispered how we loved the waters promised to steadfastly pro- the playful dolphins that darted across our bows. We appreciation for the fish we tect the oceans, standing tall to defend it. Last, we sent here, in this moment, sail- hoped to land, and especially for the opportunity of being ing in paradise. Adam in the face; the line clothespin alarm went flinging across the cockpit, smacking “We got a big one!” he yelled. raced into the depths of the sea with an energy all its own. “Be still, sweet one. You are the magnificent mahi-mahi, thanking it for coming. it went quiet, and its life splendid in your colors; don’t suffer,” I cooed. Suddenly, gently receded. I noticed for outwitting the king of the seas!) for outwitting the king of the APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.biz E-mail:[email protected] Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels 16&79A(alpha–American system) a 111-slipmarinaandboatyardwith12acresofdrystoragespace V Onsite amenitiesandservicesincludeabank/ATM,supermarket, • chandlery, restaurant,bakery,clothingstore,diveshop,phoneand a pristineandrelaxingenvironment.BVICustomsimmigration Our facilitylocatedintheheartofbeautifulVirginGordacomprises P.O. Box4540,Airport Road,SintMaarten,N.A.,Caribbean offering insuranceapprovedhurricanepitstosecureyourvessel Wireless internet,banksandlaundry withinthecomplex Join usthiswinterandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. fax facilities,freewirelessinternetaccess,fuel,waterandice, IRGIN laundry facilities,andanofficeoftheBVITouristBoardallin Tel: 284495-5500 • Pick-up anddrop-off frommajorsupermarkets • 284 495-5318 Electricity: 220V/50amp;110V/300amps IN OURCARETHISSUMMER located withinconvenientwalkingdistance. Tel: 599-5442309 Fax:599-5443378 G for theupcominghurricaneseason. (single phaseandthree • Free satelliteTVateachslip • • ORDA WE OFFER: LEAVE YOURBOAT Fuel dockandbunkering (managed bySunResortsInternational) Web: www.vgmarina.biz 120 concreteslipberths Full ServiceMarinaFacility • Telephone hook-up • • Shower facilities 24 hoursecurity • VHF Ch:16 16ft channel Y ACHT Fax: 284495-5706 H 284 495-5685 ARBOUR going toseahimself.Hispreviousbook, pages, paperback.ISBN978-1-888671-19-3. shoestring sailors. an excellentknowledge oftheislandsandsub-culture ofyachtiesknownas but therewereplenty ofsmilespleasureandrecognition, astheauthorshowed and quick-paced.Ididn’t burstoutlaughing(asitdidoneback-cover blurbwriter), to achieve. knows thisstorywasreal,andithasan emotionalimpacttheothersdon’teventry humor, andinnocence,withanensemble cast.Unliketheother“yarns”,reader screenplay alongthelinesof wharf-rat teenagefriendsandapractical joke.Ifexpanded,itcouldmakeagood Although itfeaturesagenericWandaSue-like female,thestoryisaboutagroupof Innocence”, anobviousreferencetothe author’sadolescencein1950sTexas. “And theylivedhappilyeverafter”. love forthefirsttime,badguysarefoiled, andafewofthestoriesactuallyend, say weshouldn’ttakeanyofthistooseriously. Theheroinesallmaketheirmenfeel enough toshametheauthor.Perhapseditorjustdozedofftemporarily,asif to ly formalstyle. such duetotheauthor’swit,whichintentionallygoesagainstgrainofaslight- humorous ditties,lightfareforthereader’sentertainment,andtheysucceedas adjuster, andcollectorimproviserofyarns.Thetenstoriesincludedhereareall Publications, ©2006,shortstories,280pages,paperback,ISBN0-9788740-0-1/5. It isanenjoyabletimecapsuleaswellaswiftly-pacedactionnovel. the incidentalcharactersarerealistic,andsettingdescriptionsfirst-rate. where coincidentally,thisreviewerfirstsetfootonaCaribbeanislandin1967! doesn’t pretendtobemore.It’sstillanenjoyableridethefinishatBeefIsland, hijacked boatback. dimensional, butitdoesn’tdampenthefunasCaptainJackstrugglestogethis mate fromaslowpainfuldeath.Thebadguysaresometimescardboardandtwo- scene andamiraculouscoincidencewhichsavesthemaroonedcaptainhis for doubletheusualfee. the blue,wantingtogoremoteAves(Bird)Island—whereJackfoundcoin bloon inabar.Thecoinwasstolen,andthreedayslaterchartererarrivesoutof ering hewasattackedaboardhisvesselthesamenightshowedoffgolddou- as welltreasure-huntinggear.Jackisabitthickabouttheirintentions,consid- BY BOBBERLINGHOF Captain “Lou”Boudreaugrewuponhisfather’sschoonersinSt.Luciabefore Fandango's Gold Available at bookstoresorfrom [email protected]. Like My favoritestoryofthecollectionis nexttolast,“TheLastInterludeof Guy Matthewshasbeenaroundtheblockasayachtsman,marineinsurance Sundowner Stories:YarnsfromtheCockpit Available atbookstoresorfromthepublisherwww.tillerbooks.com. What savesthebookisitsauthenticity.Theauthorhasagoodearforlocaldialect, If itallsoundslikeamade-for-TVmovie,that’sbecausethisunassumingnovel The lostgoldisfoundandthemelodramabegins.Thereanobligatoryhurricane The plotconcernsacharterfromhellinwhichtheguestspackautomaticweapons Fandango's Gold,Sundowner Stories , byRobertLouisBoudreau,TillerPublishing,©2006,anovel,255 Biloxi Blue; LIGHT FARE repeated, butthisdoesn’toccuroften selfish ways. clean upthemessintheirowncleverand ish insuranceadjusterswhoattemptto missions, andtherearebothwisefool- intent onblowingupthingsthroughsuicide involvement. Therearedangerousbadguys who haveneverhadaseriousemotional stereotypical jack-of-all-tradessolosailors who likeboatwork,andtheheroesare pers orRubenesque,slightlyfadedbeauties short shorts,andhaltertops. be asexistpinkoobsessedwithbigboobs, road whichdictatesthattheirauthormust one doesn’ttakethepoliticallycorrecthigh bra size”.Thetwoareperfectcomicfoilsif Sue, “whoseIQwashardlylargerthanher tive radioshowhost,andhiswifeWanda about WatsonSwift,asuccessfulconserva- ence fromBritain. Caribbean islandsbeforetheirindepend- are excellentdescriptionsofEastern there areaccuratesailingscenes,and in theaction.Theplotmovesalongwell, tempestuous red-headedcookduringlulls measure asJackeventuallywinsoverhis little discreetromancethrowninforgood are basedinAntiguawhenthenovelopens. test pilot.Jackandhistwolocalcrewmen and operatedbyJackCarlton,aone-time schooner named spot on. through ontheirvessels40yearsagoare that periodandthecharactersfloated second generation,andhisinsightsabout gling tosurviveinthechartertrade.Louwas saw theadventofafewhardysoulsstrug- The post-WorldWarperiodintheseislands and wasfavorablyreviewedinthesepages. tual accountofhisfather’sremarkablelife The ManWhoLovedSchooners Sometimes phrasestooareunnecessarily In facttheheroinesallseemtobeex-strip- The collectionopenswiththreestories It isanadventurenovelalltheway,witha Set in1967,thisflightoffancyconcernsa a coming-of-agestoryfullofnostalgia, is enjoyablelightreading, well-written , byGuyMatthews,QuiteNice Fandango which isowned , wasafac- APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 , Less than 70 miles off the If you, too, plan to migrate Birds of the Bahamas and Birds of the coast of Florida, as well as a dif- coast of Florida, as well as a ferent culture and geography, there exists a very different birding environment. This book takes you there, with color pho- the tos of the breeding birds of widespread Bahamas archipel- ago and the Turks & Caicos, plus the most commonly recorded avian migrants touch- and ing these shores. Land and water birds are presented, information is at a layman’s level. Emphasis is on recogni- tion; behavior and habitat pref- erences are covered, as well as calls and songs. through the Bahamas and Turks & Caicos, having a copy of this book aboard will add to your experience. What this broad scattering of islands lacks in four-legged wildlife, it makes up for in a wonderfully diverse abundance of feath- ered friends you should get to know better. the Turks & Caicos Islands the Turks & Macmillan by Bruce Hallett. Pocket Natural Caribbean History Series, © 2006. Paperback, 256 pages, color photos throughout. ISBN 0-333- 93744-9. £7.95. Ornithological Ornithological Islands

Urania

“Around the world, soci- “The natural history of “Not all the curious are eties are changing. We are more sensitive of fragile ecosystems than our fore- fathers and are coming to see the value in the wee things that crawl and sing and bloom. As we learn, the scales are removed from our eyes, and with wonder we see the intricate world around us. our planet is so diverse it is difficult to grasp the variety of it all. Some people have made it their life’s work to know and understand the life around us. Most of us, however, only have an innate curiosity about the plants outside our homes and the bugs under our beds. For these questions, there were no immediate answers. A book about the species of Mustique seemed like a good idea. scientifically minded, and so that thirst for understand- ing has been unquenched. That is why the Mustique Environmental Committee accepted Father Mark de Silva’s gracious offer to com- pile a guide of the natural history of Mustique. We know that through educa- , by Mark de Silva and Dianne Wilson. Published by The Silva and Dianne Wilson. , by Mark de Appreciation

moth has recently joined other elegant visitors from South America. moth has recently joined other

A Natural History of Mustique: A Field Guide to the Common Flora, Fauna Guide to the Common of Mustique: A Field A Natural History field guide to the lesser-known inhabitants of Here is a well-illustrated descriptive jokey “what else to look for while you’re celebrity stalk- This book is by no means a record of Mustique’s indigenous wildlife species. • To establish a fairly comprehensive beauty and variety of the island’s indigenous wildlife. • To introduce people to the important contribution that Mustique’s wildlife and • To make people aware of the of the island, the physical environment, the nat- Chapters on geology, the settling of the Mustique Environmental Committee, Mick Jagger, former Chairperson The greatest threat to the environment of the Grenadine islands as a whole is the On Mustique, an active environmental committee is an official instrument of the Partly because of competition with other islands for foreign investment, proper Available from The Mustique Company Ltd., Mustique Island, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. and Marine Species and Marine famous”. While many tourists set foot on Mustique hop- the “island of the rich and or Tommy, this book shows that if you keep your eyes ing to catch a glimpse of Mick to there are many more, equally fascinating species open and know where to look, an isle. The indigenous Turnip-Tailed Gecko wears behold on this small Grenadine admire, and the velvety black-and-green striped outfit David Bowie would It is an excellent catalogue with three primary objectives: ing” gift-shop item, though. live make to the island’s economic well-being, and per- the ecosystems in which they islands to become similarly aware. haps inspire other Grenadines are fauna, invertebrate fauna, flora and marine wildlife ural environment, vertebrate photos, making identification a snap. lavishly illustrated with color writes in the book’s introduction: Understanding and and Understanding Color photos spiral bound, 331 pages. Ltd, ©2006. Soft cover, Mustique Company throughout. ISBN 976-8204-08-7 leilus Education, Education, tourism industry and its overwhelming demand for the remaining undeveloped land. It can truly be said that the Grenadines — and indeed all the islands of the Caribbean — are in danger of becoming victims of the exquisite natural beauty for which they are internationally famous. Mustique Co. Ltd., the island’s de facto “local government.” Mustique, after many years of environmental neglect, has finally, on its own initiative, made the connec- tion between a healthy natural environment and the sustainability of its exclusive tourism investment, something that many island resorts have yet to understand. The Mustique Company has made and kept many hard decisions over the years, and the authors say in the preface that “Mustique is now recognized as a fine example of sustainable development”. One recent initiative has been this guide to the biodi- versity of the island, with the objective of increasing public awareness. comprehensive environmental impact assessments are too often not done in the Caribbean, and “the environment” is irrevocably damaged in the name of “tourism development”. In islands without Mustique’s circumstances, rare national parks might be turned into resorts, irreplaceable woodlands into golf courses, valuable wetlands into marinas, thriving reefs into airport runways. A descriptive and picto- rial guide to the species of every Caribbean island threatened with over-development or non-sustainable development also seems like a good idea. It would be best to know, understand and appreciate what we’ve got — before it’s all gone, and tourist- watching is the only tourist attraction left in town. tion and understanding comes appreciation, and with that appreciation will come, we tion and understanding comes appreciation, and with that hope, even greater care of the environment.” APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 island. Opendailyat11 created fromvegetablesandfruitsgrownonthe local lobster,fish,shrimp,chickenandribs,plussalads menu consistsofbarbecuedishesincludingfresh, week forlunch,dinner,dancinganddrinking.The over 12yearsago.Sunshine’sisopensevendaysa Bees sinceSunshineopenedhisbeachsideeatery Visitors havebeensittingbackandsippingonKiller frompage6 —Continued expression ofindividualityandamodernidentity. deference tohistoricsurroundingswithconfident shows thatitispossibletocombinesensitivityanddue impact totheenvironment.ThedesignofJack’sBar been designedinamannertominimizethenegative eries canarrivebywater.Bothjettyandbarhave The baroffersadinghyjettysothatvisitorsanddeliv- beach inBequia,PrincessMargaretBeach. restaurant, spaandboutiqueonarguablythebest Tony Regisfordreports:Jack’sBarisabeachbar, Newest BeachBarinBequia For moreinformationseeadonpage15. MarinTek atRodneyBay. And don’tforgetthenewdealerforVolvoinSt.Lucia: water separators. and transmissionoil,impellers,isolationsheets now carriesVolvosparesincludingfilters,oil,hydraulic addition, SeaServicesShipchandlerinFortdeFrance engines under100-horsepower,sparesandservice.In Plaisance inTroisIsletsandMarinattendstosailboat While Frankmindsthebigpicture,Mecanique reply inEnglishorFrench. Rose-Heloise, [email protected] You cancontacthissalesrepresentative,Stephanie ed theofficialdistributorforSouthernCaribbean. Services inCasePilote,Martinique,hasbeenappoint- Frank Agren,owner-operatorofInboardDiesel 100th anniversarythisyear. products andgoodmanagement,willcelebrateits engine manufacturerknownforinnovation,quality Ciarla Deckerreports:VolvoPenta,theSwedish Volvo NamesSouthernCaribbeanDistributor executives oftheworld’scruiseshipindustry. surveys andthepollscastbyseniormanagement mation services.Theseannualawardsarebasedon transport, urbanlandscapeplanningandtouristinfor- functioning structureintermsofissuesincludingpublic tinations withadvancedtourismproductsandawell- The MostImprovedDestinationawardisgiventodes- mendable way. who havedeliveredtheirproductorserviceinacom- is renownedforrecognizingportsandtourismpartners mation onportsthroughouttheworld.Thepublication and traditionalcruiseshipdestinations,providinginfor- Dream WorldCruiseDestinations presented atSeatradeMiamionMarch13th. destinations inseveralcategories.Thecertificatewas which givesoutannualawardstocruiseship the USmagazine the 2006“MostImprovedDestination”categoryfrom St. Vincent&theGrenadineshaswonanawardin St. VincentisCruiseMagazine’s‘MostImproved’ happy andtheKillerBeeskeepeveryonebuzzing. the earlymorninghours,justaslongguestsare keep thebarhoppingandmusiccrankinguntil Dream WorldCruiseDestinations AM , Sunshineandhisstaffwill is aguidetonew , Jackson ofIslandMarineOutfittersinRoadtown, present. CombatingthisisGeneralManagerCharlie petroleum-products usageisbecomingevermore less intact—althoughtheimpactoftoday’sheavy 1960s, thecharmofBVIhappilyremainsmoreor Despite steadygrowthinyachttourismsincethe Keeping CruisingDestinationsClean www.atlantismarinecarib.com. [email protected] orvisit For moreinformatione-mail the marinetradinglocationofColeBay. with itscustomersattheirconvenienceintheheartof Lagoon Marina,AtlantisMarineisnowabletowork With dinghyaccessanddockingfacilitiesavailableat undertake warrantyservices. plan, installandcertifywarrantydocumentsaswell service centreforRaymarine,AtlantisMarinecan communication systems.Asacertifiedinstallationand ering afullrangeofmarineelectrical,electronicand allows themtoprovideasales-and-serviceareacov- three yearsandtherecentmovetoitsnewpremises Atlantis MarinehasbeentradingonSt.Maartenfor new LagoonMarinacomplex. is thefifthmarine-relatedcompanytolocatein izes inelectricalandcommunicationsinstallations at LagoonMarina,St.Maarten.Thecompanyspecial- Atlantis Marineisthenewestbusinesstoopenitsdoors Atlantis MarineMovestoLagoonMarina For moreinformationseeadonpage32. the bestserviceGrenadinescanoffer. real prideinthisinnovativenewprojectandprovide made kaftansandbeachwear.Jack’sBarstafftake open-air spaplusaboutiquesellingoriginalisland offering toanewlevel,italsoofferssecludedbut with halfpricedrinksfrom5:00to7:00 spectacular viewofthesunsetislandcanoffer of-the-art flatscreenTVand,bestofall,themost offers all-dayfoodanddrink,aspecialtygrill,state- or inhammocksitslandscapedgardens.Thebar clients tospendthedayrelaxingeitheronbeach tails. Inadditiontothis,itisofferingalocationfor Jack’s Barisofferingfusionfoodandspecialtycock- sons fortourists,especiallyonyachts,tovisitourshores. Grenadines anditwilladdtothemanycompellingrea- focal pointofthetourismplantinSt.Vincent& strong localandregionalappeal.Itisaimingtobea Jack’s BaristhefirstofitskindinBequiaandhasa PM . Takingabar ring Microscopic organisms(strainsofthenaturallyoccur- and aquaticplantlife. oils intobeneficialby-productsthatarefoodforfish Oil Eradicators,usesimplebiotechnologytoconvert products. Thesefunny-namedfoamcarriers,knownas the CleanWaterSolutions,Inc.lineofbio-remediation Tortola. IslandMarineOutfittershasrecentlytakenon to continueourFrenchlessonswithMargot. cheer. DuringournextseasoninMartiniqueweplan patient, butteacheswithenthusiasmandgood French pronunciationandMargotisnotonlyvery for aFrenchteacherwhenitcomestolearning pronunciation is when Americanstrytospeaktheirlanguage—the standing ofwhytheFrenchgiveusthesefunnylooks Parsons. Titoreports:“Nowwehaveabetterunder- using theinvaluable French lessonstothemandagroupofothercruisers, Margot AspheinSte.Anne,whoofferedtogive highlight wasmeetingandbefriendinglocalartist, account oftheirvisittoMartiniquethisseason.Their Tito andRobertafrom French LessonsinMartinique For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciajazz.org. influence thisyear”. core musicalgenre,hencetheheavysmoothjazz Maria Fowellsaid,“Wereallywantedtoreturnour tion ofthe2007line-up,St.Lucia’sDirectorTourism, Butler andIsaacHayes.Commentingonthecomposi- Downing, GeraldAlbright,NormanBrown,Jonathan Benson, WESGroup,DavidMurray,TaniaMaria,Will Board, willfeatureJohnLegend,AlJarreau&George under thedirectmanagementofSt.LuciaTourist This year,PigeonIsland,theonlyvenuethatwillcome Square, Fondd’OrJazzandintheSouth. with afullcommitmenttocontinueJazzonthe The movehasbeenwelcomedbytheprivatesector, their ownshowsthroughfinancialsupport. private sectorhasbeengivenanopportunitytostage policy directivesfromtheMinistryofTourism,St.Lucia’s St. LuciaTouristBoard.Followingtheissuanceofnew the wayitistobemanagedandproducedby through 13th,hasundergonesomemajorchangesin The St.LuciaJazzfestival,scheduledforMay4th St. LuciaJazz2007 www.cwsius.com. For [email protected] the Caribbeanregion.. are activelyseekingadditionalretailrepresentationin problem andkeepcruisingdestinationsclean.They pensive yeteffectivemeanstonaturallycombatthe Solutions believetheirOilEradicatorsprovideaninex- internal combustionengineendures.CleanWater Spills andsurfaceslickswillbearoundforaslongthe practices forhandlingpetroleumintheislands. to theBVIGovernmentbringaboutbetter,cleaner is alsointroducingthesemicrobialscrubbersofnature ing community,andthatretailsalesarerising.Charlie finding itswayintothedockandbartalkofboat- Jackson saysthatthebuzzabouttheselittlecrittersis do thedirtyworkwhileyou’reenjoyingthatcoldbeer. ed withthesemicrobesintoyourbilgeandletthem lubricants. Youjustthrowthefoamcarriersimpregnat- Archaea microbes) literallyeatoils,dieseland très difficile French ForCruisers S/V Alleluia Thereisjustnosubstitute ! —Continued onnextpage —Continued write aglowing book byKathy APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Marmaris Stockholm NEW! newport - freeport voyage in fall 2007 Cherbourg Toulon Palma de Mallorca % La Rochelle 50 save up to World Class Yacht Logistics Class Yacht World www.yacht-transport.com counter season Martinique PRODUCT POSTINGS PRODUCT Newport Freeport St. Thomas Port Everglades World’s First Floating VHF! First Floating World’s hand- marine VHF rugged M34 — a full-function, the has introduced Icom America It may be the back to the water’s surface. overboard, will rise held that, if dropped is Icom’s first ever need to buy! The M34 marine radio a boater will last handheld chassis. a one-piece aluminum to date that does not feature handheld radio inside and out. hi-strength polymers both is constructed of durable, Instead, the M34 America Carey, Vice President of Icom radio,” says Bob “This is a military-rugged Icom radio is all the great features every Marine Division. “It holds and head of its is a One of those new features a few important new ones.” known for, plus channels that user to quickly isolate those which allows the radio “Favorites” option Apart from sub- dozens of channels. eliminating the scrolling through are used most, LCD dis- features include high-resolution construction, other notable mersible IPX7 for easy, one-handed operation; hourglass shape that play; large, well spaced keys and five full watts of power with lower power selec- lends itself to a form-fit grasp; a new Li-Ion battery, allowing for an impressive power-to- table. Powering the M34 is expect nearly ten hours of typical use on a single weight ratio. A boater can .) charge. (5% transmit/5% receive/90% radio that acts like it is a high-priced radio,” says “The M34 is an affordably priced with the Li-ion battery pack, charger, and AC adapter, Carey. It comes complete warranty. The expected common retail price is under and three-year waterproof available from Budget Marine outlets this month. US$180; the M34 should be or contact your nearest Budget For more information visit www.icomamerica.com on page 2. Marine chandlery — see ad Soap Montserrat Launches Volcanic Emerald Spa recently launched the production of Montserrat-registered enterprise all-natural soaps capturing the therapeutic cleans- volcanic soaps — hand-made, active Soufriere Hills Volcano. The soaps include natural ing qualities of Montserrat’s sand, fresh local aloe, rosemary, honey, coconut and volcanic ash, clay and fine blends. Bay leaf, lemon grass and mango scent the other natural oil and mineral for gentle cleansing abrasion. They are comple- soaps which are naturally textured stone from the Soufriere Hills Volcano. mented by slices of pumice (brother of Montserrat’s Emerald Spa is the brainchild of Anne and Lorenzo Cassell in chemistry and other soca superstar Arrow). Anne brings to this initiative training University. She also has natural sciences up to Masters Degree level from Cambridge at the Montserrat over 30 years’ experience teaching science-related subjects in the UK and Barbados. “I Secondary School and several other secondary schools creation of new products have always had a passion for experimenting with the said Anne. based on what is available in the natural environment,” of the product, added: Lorenzo, who is responsible for the business development packaging and more “At the moment we are putting our energies into enhanced able to complete the work extensive distribution for 2007. Eventually, when we are of live soap production to space area, we also hope to be able to invite viewings of the community and students interested in science and business, other members tourists on sightseeing tours.” at the leading souvenir retail Gift sets of soap and pumice rock are initially available for sale on-line and in stores in Montserrat. The plan is to also have them available other shops internationally later this year. or call (9664) 491-2741. A web- For more information e-mail [email protected] site (www.emeraldspaonline) is currently under construction. Move Over, Baby Wipes — It’s Boat Wipes! designed for the marine At last! A handy multipurpose cleaning wipe specifically 80-wipe cylinders, and industry. Available in three handy sizes of 25-wipe flat packs, 100-wipe buckets, problem of providing a swift The PowerSail Wipe provides an instant answer to the It will tackle engine oil, cleaning action for all surfaces above and below decks. Being abrasive on one bilge grime, grease, mildew stains, toilets, and work surfaces. and exhaust stains. Its side allows the PowerSail Wipe to deal with waterline scum clean. With the ability cleaning action leaves surfaces both visually and hygienically both heavy soil removal and to provide the customer with a hand-cleaning wipe for all of the messy clean- antibacterial action, PowerSail Wipes can eliminate almost ing-supply bottles usually carried on their boats. For more information visit www.powersail.com. DYT Representative Martinique Representative DYT 07 15 74 596 + 596 Telephone: [email protected] Eastern Caribbean’s safest Eastern Caribbean’s hurri- and most attractive now cane holes, but reason there’s even more your to make this harbour over the port of choice summer months. The new Marina Village, with its shops, boutiques, French bakery, bank and supermarket, is open year- round, as is the new luxury Discovery at Marigot Bay resort and spa situated right above the docks. The bay itself is dotted with bars and restaurants popular with both visitors and locals

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Telephone: + 1 954-525-8707 Telephone: [email protected] Dockwise Yacht Transport USA Transport Dockwise Yacht n n n n n Yacht at Rest Yacht Mind at Ease —Continued page from previous Summer Attractions at Marigot Bay Summer Attractions at Marigot Manager for The Marina Molly McDaniel, PR and Marketing According to as one of the Lucia has long been known on the west coast of St. Bay, Marigot Bay Brand New Marina at Fajardo, Puerto Rico in December 2006, is Sunbay Marina, a newly constructed marina which opened coast of Puerto Rico. located in Fajardo (18°20’25”N, 65°37’58”W) on the east yachts up to 60 feet. Each Sunbay Marina offers 282 berths on finger pontoons for TV and free wireless inter- berth has 110- and 220-volt electricity, water, free cable 24/7. An easily accessed net connection. The whole area is patrolled by security fuel dock is located at its entrance. welcomes transient sailing Although designed for long-term mooring, the marina and to provide any and motor yachts. The friendly staff is trained to assist yachties information that might be needed. Fajardo is a US Port of Entry and US Customs and Immigration away by dinghy. is located half a mile interest to the yachting In Fajardo are all sorts of stores and business that are of A West Marine Store community, making this a great place to re-supply a yacht. are located within and other chandlers, Wal Mart, Kmart, Sears, major supermarkets Dining ranges from local a few minutes of driving. The Marina has a local car rental. restaurants at the fare at small eateries on the beach to upscale elegant Conquistador Hotel. A variety of fast food is also available. Sunbay Marina to leave your boat and visit is the perfect location beautiful Puerto Luis Muñoz Marín Rico or as a pick-up or drop-off point for guests on board. is 45 minutes away by car. 863-5282 For more information contact tel (787) 863-0313, fax (787) or visit www.sunbaymarina.com. They are not only affordable and convenient for those anchored in Sainte Anne; in Sainte those anchored convenient for and not only affordable They are also an they are type (please at [email protected] contact Margot information For more or visit http://margot.blogg.org. Subject section) Lessons” in the “French Marigot Bay a favorite pick-up and drop-off point for — attractions that have made coupled with direct airlift from both the US and the yacht charters, especially when private jets. UK and facilities for landing tend to leave the Caribbean and head back to the “Traditionally, larger yachts months,” says McDaniel, “but they don’t know what Mediterranean for the summer diminish, the waters around St. Lucia become they’re missing. As the tradewinds of the best scuba diving and deep-sea fishing condi- much clearer, providing some enticement, visiting yachts will also enjoy lower marina tions of the year.” As further discounts for long stays, while the associated rates during the summer. with rooms. Discovery resort also extends low summer rates for their exploring the other southern “The Marina at Marigot Bay is the perfect gateway for summer it has the added islands of the Caribbean any time of the year, but in the flights. For the charter advantage of fewer crowds, lower prices and cheaper to offer fantastic summer yachts that stay, there’s also the attraction of being able is in the Mediterranean,” charters in Caribbean while the rest of the charter fleet an easy-to-reach refuge said Daniel, adding that “St. Lucia is close to Venezuela, head our way.” for larger yachts in the unlikely event that a storm should For more information visit www.marigotbay.com. APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 over 100ampsaday,nomatterhowefficientlywe ond refrigerator.Itwasalsopowerhungry,consuming enough toqualifyasafreezersoweranthatsec- as wehadbeenadvised,thefreezerwasn’treallycold intended asafreezer,refrigeratorandcoolbox regassed, itwasupandrunning.Theboxeswere later, havinghadseveralleaksfixedandthesystem would becruisinglikeFatty.Threehundreddollars stage thesystemwasgoingtoworkasorwe that itwouldcostaboutfivethousanddollars!At tem, whichseemedlikeagoodideauntilhetoldus install anengine-drivencompressortodrivethesys- work asafreezer.Heconcludedthatweneededto that itwasunlikelytheboxwouldgetcoldenoughto and thatoursystemwouldbeverypowerhungry now bannedandwewouldhavetouseanalternative explained allabouthowtherefrigerantgasR12was on mechanicalandelectricalsystems. the systemadvocatedinNigelCalder’sexcellentbook plate systemwiththreeboxesandappearedsimilarto tem fittedon priorities, sothiswasvirginterritoryforus.Thesys- always fallenbelowthatofacabinheaterinourlist ation onourboatsandtheneedtoinstallithad so yearsintheUK,wehadneverproperrefriger- tems worked.Althoughwehadbeensailingfor20or had beenlaidupforalongtimeandnoneofthesys- refrigeration, letalonesuggestittomywife! (but Iwon’tdothat)”.wouldn’tliketocruisewithout album reminded meofthewordsasongfromMeatloaf cruises withoutanyformofrefrigerationonboard.This of electricitytopowerthem.Hethenwentonsayhe modern boatsandtheneedtogeneratelargequantities Goodlander ontheproliferationofelectronicgadgets Refrigeration — We tookadvicefromarefrigerationexpertwho When wepurchased I readanarticletheotherdaybyCap’nFatty as theInternationalAirport. shopping centers,aswell close totheentertainment and All thisislocatedconveniently safest marina’s intheCaribbean. Marina of MountHartmanBay, well protectedandshelteredwaters outside ofthehurricanebeltin Caribbean’s finestmarinas.Located south coastofGrenada,isonethe Martin’s Marina Bat outofHell is consideredoneofthe GRENADA It’s AllintheBox Wandering Star , situatedonthe entitled “I’ddoanythingforlove Wandering Star Martin’s was a12-voltholding • 20ftofdraftoffthe deepestdock. • Highcapacityelectrical services • 42stern-to-slips&11alongside • 53slipconcretemarina in Floridashe MARTIN’S MARINAOFFERS: at eachslip. 110/220 v(50Hz)& water slips, aswell32moorings. accommodating boatsupto200ft. by GlynJohnson the heartofmatter—insulation,andlotsit. causes allthefrostasitcools. taining lotsofmoistureintothetopbox,which power tochill,andthisinturnsuckswarmaircon- was lettingoutcoldair,whichithadcostusalotof have togo.Idon’tthinkdrainsarenecessary:ours reused, butthethree-quarter-inchdrainpipewould The boxitselfwasheavy-gaugestainlessandcouldbe increased theusablespaceinboxby20percent! this couldgoaswell.Justremovingtheseitems four inchesofinsulationseparatingthetwohalves,so tor boxes,sidebyside,wereinrealityoneboxwith proof construction”claims.Thefreezerandrefrigera- these wasenormousandtheydeservedtheir“bullet- boxes andremovedtheholdingplates;weightof piping andthecompressor.Ipulledofftopof will do. good boxthenvirtuallyanymanufacturer’ssystem unless youhaveagoodboxandifreally eration systemyouuse,itwillnotworkefficiently important partofthesystem.Nomatterwhoserefrig- My experiencewastoshowthattheboxismost tion wasgiventothe“box”thatunitcool. money onthisoldinefficientunitorwasthetimeto eventually reinstallit.DidIwanttospendanymore and thentheprospectofhavingtocallinanengineer ing thecompressorunitinordertofacilitateotherwork it waswatercooledwecouldn’tuseonthehard. you couldhearitstartupfrom50yardsawayandas tem woulddraw35ampswhenitwasrunningand relieving usofanothersixhundreddollars.Thesys- and hadtocallinanengineereachtimerepairit, tried tomanageit,butatleastwehadrefrigeration. Now wewereabletoliftouttheboxandcome I settoworkandstrippedoutthelarge-borecopper The otherthingnoticeablewasthatverylittleatten- While refittinginTrinidad2002Iwasfacedwithmov- Over thenextcoupleofyearswehadaleakortwo Email: [email protected] ing appropriateservicesasneeded. marina, aswelltohelpinlocat- boaters indocking&leavingthe and arealwaysavailabletoassist VHF radiochannels16&71, Martin’s Marina’s • Taxi andislandtourservices. • Pool,tenniscourt&bar. • DutyFreeFuel. • Security. • InternetAccess. • Telephone andfaxfacilities. • Longterm&short • Fuel,gas,shower&toilet is criticalinthetropics freezer (right),goodinsulation Whether foracoldbox(left)or slip rental. facilities, garbagedisposal&ice. the heartofsystem. Danfoss compressor,whichis mon partsandinparticularthe tor-plate-type unitssharecom- that manyofthesmallevapora- facturers itbecameapparent adverts fromthedifferentmanu- at but looking Day! Iamnorefrigerationexpert, would finishitbeforeChristmas apart withthepromisethatI good timetoripthegalleyarea was aweekbeforeChristmasso bite thebulletandupgrade?It Fax: (473)4442090 Tel: (473)4444449 staff monitors some ofthe metre extensionkitsareavailableifrequired. 2.5 metersofthepipeworkbutone-,two-andthree- in temperatureisn’taproblem.Thiswaswithinthe the cupboardundersinkwhereslightincrease high inourlargebilgearea,whichallowsittoventinto but alsotodismantlethemlaterifyouneedto. to couplethemupwithoutlosingalltherefrigerant erant gasandspecialfittingswhichallowyounotonly and evaporatorplatecomepre-chargedwiththerefrig- vision forthewarmedairtoescape.Thecompressor good airflowfromthecoolestpartofboatandpro- pressor isaircooleditbestinstalledwherehas bend, wouldliealongtwosidesofthebox.Ascom- relatively smalltemperaturerange.Theplate,withone capacity oftheboxandthermostatoperatesovera to runit.Evaporatorplatesaresizedforthecubic panel evaporatorplatewithanair-cooledcompressor counter typerefrigerator,andwechosealarge,flat slightly largerthananormaldomesticunder-the- tive asawipe-cleananddurablesurface. held inplacewithmasticandthishasbeenveryeffec- sore, sowelineditwitheighth-inchwhiteCintrasheet good. Ours,withitsmodifications,wasadefiniteeye- late aroundthebox,butisnoteasytokeeplooking good thermalconductivityandhelpsthecoldtocircu- seas willsoonshowupanyweakness.Ametalboxhas be extremelyheavyandthepoundinginCaribbean when stockedwithallyourdrinksandsuppliesitwill properly supportedinamongstitsinsulatingfoamas into thefoam.Itisveryimportanttoensurebox proof plasticmembranetostopcondensationgetting less poweryouwillneedtorunyoursystem. of foamworkswell.Thebettertheinsulationthen to betakenavoidanygaps,andinterleavinglayers the temperaturewayaboveambientlevels.Careneeds and thesideofhullwheresun’srayswouldlift imum ofsixinchesfoam,withmorebetweenthebox ly thattheycan’tbecutoralteredinanyway. one orinthiscasetwo,isfirstlythecostandsecond- these butthedrawback,asofcoursetheremustbe thick. GlacierBayhaveaverygoodwebsitedetailing high thermalinsulationvaluesinpanelsjustoneinch using speciallymadevacuumpanelswhichhavevery space forthisthentherearehigh-techalternatives thicker theinsulationrequired.Ifyoucan'tafford as anabsoluteminimum.Thebiggerthebox My viewisthatyoushouldusefourinchesor100mm install, advertiseready-madepanelsjust46mmthick. tropics. Isotherm,whoserefrigerationunitIwasto tic refrigerators,maybewoefullyinadequateforthe of thecommerciallyavailableboxesorindeeddomes- soak upanymoisture;kitsareavailablebutlikemany We mountedourcompressorinanopenboxshelf Our “new”boxcameinat180litersorsixcubicfeet, Prior toreinstallingtheboxIwrappeditinadamp- I wasluckyenoughtohavethespaceinstallamin- Closed-cell foamisnormallyusedsothatitwillnot —Continued onnextpage —Continued APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 BETA MARINE TOHATSU TOHATSU

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SERVICES Mechanics and Electricity Boat Maintenance Engine diagnosis Breakdown service 24/7 Haulout and hull sand blasting Equipment for rent Technical shop MARINE MECHANICS (ALL MAKES) - HAUL OUT - 24h BREAKDOWN SERVICE - 24h BREAKDOWN MAKES) - HAUL OUT (ALL MARINE MECHANICS LEAVE YOUR BOAT IN SKILLED HANDS BOAT IN SKILLED LEAVE YOUR full time for nine years and in the How big is a 180 liter box? Well, we normally have Four years on we are still delighted with our refriger- All our systems are solar and wind powered and we nor- Glyn and his wife Jenny have been cruising on We downsized the electric circuit breaker from its the electric circuit breaker We downsized Our newest compressor lives under the cooker Our newest compressor lives Eastern Caribbean since 2000. 50-amp rating to ten, and connected it all up and we 50-amp rating to ten, and Eve. The first thing we were ready to go on Christmas — unless you put your noticed was how quiet it was it was running! The next ear to it, you didn't know the previous boxes would thing was how cold it was; run at around 40°F but now, unless we were careful, we would freeze the milk and orange juice! Finally, the power consumption was minimal compared to the old box and probably averages around 30 amps a day. Power consumption will vary depending on how many times you open the box and the quantity of warm goods you put in to chill. We use little ice as all the drinks are already very cold and a bag of ice would now last us three weeks, kept in the coldest part of the fridge. All this and we were still on the hard in Trinidad. Is there a stiffer test? about six gallons of various drinks, plus vegetables, meats, cheeses and all the condiments that require refrigeration nowadays. I fitted a shelf rack along the back to store the fruit and vegetables and two shelves along one end for the jars. The compressor and its evap- orator plate cost US$740 — less than we had spent maintaining the old system. ation, particularly having spent long periods when we were living on the boat on the hard. So much so that this year I converted the unused third box into a 70- liter freezer using an identical refrigeration unit and evaporator plate but with a freezer thermostat. In the smaller box the evaporator plate fits snugly around three sides of the box. I managed to make space under the stove housing by reducing the free space under the cooker to mount the compressor with fresh air from below the floor and venting up behind the stove hous- ing. The compressor runs on a 30-percent duty cycle and uses about 35 amps a day. Temperatures in the box are 4°F to 8°F (-13°C to -15°C) and ice cream keeps perfectly! mally make six or more gallons of water a day, depending on how much wind we have — but that’s another story. Wandering Star —Continued page from previous evap- attached to the has to be thermostat The included box. high in the the plate mounted and then orator plate plates are alumini- here as the word of caution A special to pre- stainless box from the need to be isolated um and the when bending to be taken Care needs vent corrosion! tubes being to prevent the small evaporator plate two-inch plas- the process and I used a crushed during space for the and cut slots to allow tic tube as a former lid need to of the box and a snug-fitting tubes. The top of the box. the same standard as the rest be insulated to APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Credit Cards Wir sprechenDeutsch el 473-409-2264 Manager Jean-YvesRouseré • @:[email protected] • Cell: 473-439-4913 • Tel/FaxOffice: Dinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal*Imray lolaire Charts Apelco *Harken *Sta-lok316SSRiggingCordage * West System*Shields Weblon *Clear Vinyl *Canvaswork Supplies*MarincoGarminUniden Boatlife *StarbriteCampZincsMarinePadlocks *OrionSunbrella Racor * Wix *Shurflo*Johnson Pumps*3-MFlags *Perko *JabscoGroco Seachoice *Marpac Teleflex * Tempo *RitchieBreeze * Whale * Ancor Marlin BottomPaint *DelcoUnderwaterMetalKitZ-SparCetolMercury NEW ICUT NATGAABTEL ANDCARIBEDINGHYS DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLI CORNER OFMIRANDA &GUARAGUAO, -al [email protected] Standby E-mail: VHF Channel72 EEHN:(8 21 6-84 FX (58)(281)265-2448 FAX: (58)(281)265-3844 TELEPHONE: Opposite theMarket VHF: ch VHF: [email protected] OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: www.boglesroundhouse.com For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: welcome! A C T XANADUMARINE: on ta JYA atSIMBoatyard,PricklyBay,Grenada c 1 t 6 us

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AINT serve atroomtemperature.Servesfour. pepper. Makesfourservings. and sesameseeds.Seasonwithsalt Stir- fortwominutes.Addsoysauce frying pan.Addthebodiandpakchoy. Heat peanutoilandsesameinahot utes), andthencombinewithpakchoy. bodi untilbrightgreen(aboutfourmin- water, drainandsetaside.Steamthe lengthwise. Blanchthepakchoyinhot the pakchoy,andthencutinhalf which hasalessdelicatetaste. and sweeterthanthedarkgreenbean, garlic. Thepalegreenbeanismeatier and oil;orsimmeredinbutteroil drained, thenseasonedwithlemonjuice stewed withtomatosauce;steamedand milligrams vitaminC. iron, twomilligramsvitaminA,and35 milligrams calcium,five serving givesfourgramsofprotein,110 to adeepbrownish-redvariety. to themoreslenderdarkergreenone, more commonpalegreenpodvariety, different varieties,rangingfromthe throughout theworld.Bodicomesin are morethan12,000speciesofbeans originated inCentralAmerica.There least 7,000years.Itisbelievedbeans pigeon pea. same familyastheblack-eyedpeaand bean orsnakebean,andbelongstothe called asparagusbean,Chineselong low orpalepurpleflowers.Bodiisalso annual climbingplantwithwhite,yel- 18 inchesorless. although they’reusuallyharvestedat grow uptoaboutthreefeetlong, known asyardlongbeans,canindeed although notascrisp.Bodi,sometimes bean thatresemblesagreenbean on steroids?Thatisbodi,apencil-thin you thoughtwereordinarygreenbeans SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL Bodacious BodiBeans 1 Tablespoon herbssuchasbasil or 2 Tablespoonssugar 1 Tablespoonoliveoil 1/3 Cupwhitevinegar DRESSING 1 mediumcucumber slicedthin seeded andslicedintothinstrips 1 sweetbellpepper(preferablyred), 1 Cupbeansprouts 1 Tablespoonbalsamicvinegar 1 redonion,choppedfinely 1 Cupbodi,cutinto2-inchpieces Chinese BodiSalad Mix allingredientsinabowland 1/2 Cupbalsamicvinegar possible 3 clovesgarlic,choppedassmall and steamed 1 poundbodi,cutinbite-sizepieces Simple ChineseBodi Cut offtheverybottomofstemsfrom Salt andpeppertotaste 1 Tablespoonsesameseeds 2 Tablespoonssoysauce 1/2 Tablespoonsesameoil 2 Tablespoonspeanutoil 1 poundbodi,cutinto2-inchpieces 1 poundpakchoy Long BeanStirFry Bodi canbepreparedinvariousways: Bodi isverynutritious.A100-gram Beans havebeencultivatedforat Native toSoutheastAsia,bodiisan Ever beentothemarketandseenwhat weeks before harvest. careful tospraychemicals atleasttwo Fastac orVydate–L isbeneficial.Be mosaic virus.Achemical sprayof also susceptibleto nematodesand speckled appearance onleaves.Bodiis can beaproblem,producingsilver- a pestearlyintheseason.Spidermites the podsofthisplant.Thripstendtobe common diseases.Aphidsaredrawnto turn intoaspiral,isoneofthemost “Ringing”, wherethebeansactually swell —usually12to18inches. imum lengthbeforetheseedsmatureor Pick thepodsattenderstagemax- flower tosuitablelengthinabout10days. after sowing.Fruitswillgrowfromopen begins. Floweringwilloccurfiveweeks mix and12–17–2whenflowering growth stagesusea12–24fertilizer works wellonallbeans.Intheearly areas. Ureaorahighnitrogenfertilizer nutrients, soitiswisetorotateplanting plant orhotpeppertrees. climb. Bodicanalsovineondeadegg- who hasachainlinkfenceforitto Bodi isperfectforthehomegardener the bodivinesbetweenthesestrings. sticks. Astheygrow,carefullyweave els, one,two,andfourfeet,betweenthe so asnottoirritatetheyoungplants. farmers putinthesticksbeforeplanting six toeightfeetalongtherows.Some because sticksneedtobeplacedevery distance betweenrowsisnecessary rows separatedatleastthreefeet.The at leasteightinchesapartwithraised germination. Plantseedsaninchdeep, seeds inwaterbeforesowing,forbetter extra workforthegardener.Soak in lessthan60days. chicken manureandgrowstomaturity to 6.8,enrichedwithcompostorrotted light, well-drainedsoilwithapHof5.5 kilos ofbodiin2003!Bodiprefersa that Trinidadproducedninemillion warm climate.Infactitgrowssowell Season totaste.Servehot.Servesfour. ly. Addbodiandcookuntiltender. and shrimp.Cook,stirringoccasional- toes andcookuntilsoft,stirinpork serving. Servessix. add toveggies.Chillfor2hoursbefore and cucumber.Thenmixdressing to cool.Mixinbeansprouts,pepper stant stirring.Takeoffheatandallow and vinegar.Cook2minuteswithcon-

Mole cricketsloveyoungbodi. Beans arehungryanddepletethesoilof Strings arethenstrungatthreelev- Being aclimbingplant,bodiprovides Bodi growsquicklyintheCaribbean’s For theGardeners: Heat oil,garlicandonion.Addtoma- Salt andpeppertotaste 1/2 poundbodi,cutinto2-inchpieces 1/2 Cupdeveinedshrimp thin strips 1/2 Cuppork(orchicken)cutinto 2 ripetomatoes,chopped 2 Tablespoonsmincedgarlic 1/2 Cupchoppedonion 2 Tablespoonsvegetableoil Sautéed Bodi In alargefryingpan,mixbodi,onion Salt totaste 2 clovesmincedgarlic thyme, chopped WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48

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tel: 440-2310 Dear Dear Seattle, Washington Melinda Parke gal hasagreatpointofviewandexpressesitwell. ter; tearscamecloseafterfrommorelaughing.This Dane onboardwithabosun’srig.Anditonlygotbet- Laughed my***offlastOctoberatgettingtheGreat Pet?”, aboutheronboardanimalexperiences. issue ofthe the plantandanimallifeintargetedarea.Inalater impact theprojectishavingonenvironmentand Grenada. Thisletterexpressedconcernsaboutthe the projecttodevelopHogIsland/Mt.Hartmanin article intheWhat’sOnMyMinddepartmentabout heritage, orcriticizing thechildrenforbeingconcerned? ing thepeopleofGrenada forwantingtopreservetheir are thewritersofthese letterstotheForumalsocriticiz- fragile birdstosupport theircause…shameonthem”, that squattingyachts areusing“theenvironmentand tering butterfly(oraGrenadianDove)is tadselfish”or www.abcbirds.org/GrenadaLetter.pdf). protest fromtheAmericanBirdConservancy at 2007/02/grenada_dove_update.html, and alsoa International (seewww.birdlife.org/news/news/ impact statementinthenewspapers from BirdLife tourists fromothercountries.There was alsoan subject fromlocalcitizens,aswell visitorsand been anumberofcritical“letterstothe editor” onthe published editorialsontheseconcerns. Therehave about whatisgoingtohappentheirnationalbird. There isagreatconcernonthepartofGrenadians 20 pairsofwhichareintheMt.HartmanNationalPark. estimated thatthereareonly180birdsleftinexistence, Grenada. TheDoveisindigenoustoGrenadaandit habitat oftheGrenadaDove—nationalbird informed onthesubject. issue(s) bymakinganefforttobecomeatleastalittle valuable fortheauthorstobecomefamiliarwith Compass of thepeopleGrenada.Beforewritinglettersto “squatting yachts”,butmoreimportantlyalsotomany and Mt.Hartmanisaseriousconcernnotjustforthe Gerber article:theclearingoflandonHogIsland view oftheworldthanyoudo. question theirintegritybecausetheyhaveadifferent of contributionsthattheGerbershavemadetoGrenada. month ortwo,wouldnotbeabletomakethesamekind a yachtdroppinganchorfornightortwo,even period oftimeononeisland.Surelywouldagreethat value ordetrimentofavisitorstayingforanextended family services)fortwoyears. the BoardofDirectorsGrensave(children’sand relief suppliesafterIvanandEmily,Debservedon They werealsoveryinvolveddistributinghurricane Tourism toimproveyachtingforeveryone’sbenefit. with theYachtingTourismOfficerinMinistryof good andbad).Tothisend,theyhaveworkeddirectly impact yachtingtourismcanhaveonGrenada(both tion, theirissuesandconcerns,areawareofthe they havebecomeveryfamiliarwiththelocalpopula- Because theyhavespentsomuchtimeinGrenada They bothgivebackmuchmorethantheytake. local populationandtoenhanceyachtinginGrenada. very legallyinGrenadaandtheydomuchtohelpthe personal attackdirectedatthewriter,DeborahGerber. nothing todowiththeissue;itwasanunnecessary and herviews.Muchofthecriticisminlettershad that wereverycritical,personally,abouttheauthor I lovedJuliaBartlett’sarticles,“ToPet...OrNotTo In theNovember2006issueof Recently, we wereinvitedto attendtheGrenada So whenthewritersto All threeofthelocalnewspapersinGrenadahave The Mt.Hartmanareabeingdevelopedistheprimary Regarding theotherissuesinresponseto Disagree withothersifyouwant,butpleasedonot Thus, onecanmakehisorherowndecisionofthe Mr. andMrs.Gerberarenot“squatting”,they Compass Compass

criticizing whatanotherwrites,itwouldbe Readers’ Forum Compass , , there weresubsequentletters Compass Compass say thatsavinga”flut- there wasan what theydonotlike, starttobitch. article: wewant, want,andwhenpeoplesee Caribbean isallabout, andit’scrimefree. only bytheseabreeze. Thatiswhatlivinginthe on thebeach,havethatchedroofsand are ventilated inexpensive seafoodIhaveevertasted.They areright find numerousrestaurantsservingsome ofthebest west towardsElMorro.Alongthecauseway youwill ferry acrossthemaincanal.Fromthere you canhead few hundredyardsfromFrank’sformer marinaisa eating junkfood,that’stheirprerogative. However,a and surroundthemselveswithconstant noisewhile frequent suchconcretejunglesasthe Plaza Mayor, with thatphilosophy,buttherearethose who will. the wall,matey.Fortunately,notmanycitizensgoalong if youdonothavemoneytobuyfood,thewritingison states tothenationthatitisokayrobyourneighbor ical politicalshift.WhentheleaderappearsonTVand advent ofthe21stcentury,Venezuelaexperiencedarad- recent edition,updatedin2006,isnowavailable. written in1994andupdated19972002.Themost [ things. Thisparticularguidewaswritteninthe1990s. ing guidementioned,youhavetoappreciateacoupleof seems likepeanutstosome,themitisafortune. tims. Theyexistonaday-to-daybasis,andif40bucks start drinkingat0700hours.Thentheylookforvic- weekends whentheyoungbucksalreadyhighondope marinas shouldbeavoidedatalltimes,especiallyon that certainareasoutsidetheconfinesofVenezuelan Compass, most dangerousofall.Itiswelldocumentedinthe a deathwish.Theareaoutsidethemarinasis their marinaintodowntownPLC,theymusthavehad pocket. Asforthetwocruiserswhooptedtowalkfrom watch strap,designersunglasses,andsterlinginmy that Iwouldnotvisitdayornight,letalonewithanew there arecertainplacesinmyhomeportofSwansea have foundthemtobepunctualwithnolostluggage. any badexperienceswhileoninternalflightshere,and good ratewithoutanyconsequences.Ihaveneverhad na; thereareplentyofplaceswhereyoucanobtaina including yourboat.Waituntilyouarriveatmari- rate. Getinvolvedinthat,andyouwillloseeverything, exchange themontheblackmarketatamorelucrative out tocatchvisitorssmugglingindollars,whowant port, usetheofficial sight. Shouldyouneedtochangecurrencyatanair- the samewithyourcreditcard:neverletitoutof to wait.Somehow,theseclownscloneyourticket,and knew myflighttime,therewasnoalternativeandIhad flight andalucrativedealoncurrencyexchange,butI it solvedtheproblem.Iwasoncepromisedanearlier whacking him.Perhapsnotthewisestthingtodo,but ing currency.Ithappenedtomeonce,andIendedup airport hustlerregardingyouronwardflightorchang- al connections,possiblyworthinvestigating. ating outofBarcelonadirecttoMiamiwithinternation- Italian andSwissAlps.Thereisalsoanewserviceoper- hour delay,thenyou’reoffwithfantasticviewsofthe Europe iswithAlitalia.ChangeplanesinMilan,aone- deal thatIhavecomeupwithwhentravelingtoorfrom hours toflyfromBritainhereisbeyondme.Thebest and notattheairportcheck-indesk.Howittook20 country andyourairlinewhenconfirmingflight make enquirieswiththeembassyofyourintended rules mayhavechanged.That’seasytocheckupon: However, IhavenotflownforoverayearsoImmigration Pearce had[ modated, inthatchedhuts? Venezuelans, sohowaretheysupposedtobeaccom- Puerto LaCruzarethevacationplaygroundsformost backdrop ofhigh-risebuildings…” quandary: tovisitornotvisit? which hewrotethearticle,asitleavesreadersina making, heshouldhavereconsideredthemannerin However whenthenegativefactorsareofhisown I appreciatetheneedtopresentbothsidesofcoin. but hisnarrativeseemedtoconveyacertainnaiveté. know howlongMr.PearcehasbeenintheCaribbean with thetaskinhandandlearnbyexperience.Idonot groan whenthingswedonotlikeupsetus;geton that heisafellowBrit.Weusuallydonotmoanand Part One” [ Compass Dear S/V SecondMillennium John andMelodyePompa Sincerely, Grenada Dove,captioned“EXTINCTISFOREVER”. work bystudents,onedrawingofwhichwasthe school. Partofthecelebrationwasanexhibitart- Independence Daycelebrationatthelocalprimary Editor’s note:Doyle’sguidetoVenezuelawasoriginally “Venezuela: TheGood,theBadandReturnTrip, Ralph Troutsummed itupperfectlyinhisDecember If “adventurous”cruisersinPuertoLaCruz wishto As forthesafetyofanchoragesillustratedincruis- On thequestionofcrime,ithappenseverywhere: Never, evergetintoaconversationherewithsome I haveneverencounteredthevisaproblemthatMr. [ He mentionedmanygoodthingsaboutthearea,and Having readanarticleintheDecember2006 Frank wrote:“Iwassomewhatdismayedtoseethe Compass ], Ifeelobligedtorespond.Itwouldappear by FrankPearceconcerningPuertoLaCruz by myselfandmanyothercorrespondents, flying backtoVenezuelafromEngland , cambio . Mostofthehustlersare —Continued onnextpage —Continued ] Margaritaand ] Atthe ]. APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance phone: 340-513 -3147 phone: SAIL fax: 340-777-6272 email: [email protected] email: POWER it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com Saint Thomas, USVI Saint Thomas, Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. insurance The insurance, is no good cheap but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, broker the honest No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent 55 Vitech Motoryacht, 199855 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 198050 Marine Trader, $ 499,000 43 Mainship 430, 200334 Mainship, 1979 1994 w/cuddy, 31 Tiara $ 389,000 27 Grady White, 1997 $ 149,000 198526 Fortier w/cuddy, 26 Grady White, 1996 $ 359,000 $ 79,000 $ 59,900 $ 42,000 $ 50,000 $ 42,900 47 Stevens, 198147 Stevens, 1995 42 Hunter Passage, 199642 Catalina MKII, 198542 Whitby, 41 Hunter 410, 2000 $ 159,000 39 Stevens, 198137 C&C, 198536 Frers, 1985 $ 124,900 210,000 $ 35 Island Packet, 1991 198834 Tartan, 32 Bristol, 1976 $ 145,000 89,000 $ $ 46,000 $ 119,000 $ 59,000 $ 55,000 55,000 $ $ 22,000 USVI who offered ear- a problem — if only a problem is —Continued on next page ], I was agreeing with her and , , that the Chavez-controlled legislature in that the Chavez-controlled Compass when you are woken from your slumber by AM Compass If you feel you can defend your property and family Regarding Klaus Nenn and Frank Pearce’s respons- Firstly I find Klaus’s comparison between theft and You both seem to have read so much between the Rather than offend Melodye Pompa [ In closing, knowing that Bob has had experience has had Bob that knowing In closing, from Kent issue carried a letter Your February I noted in the So it is with some irony that well regarded in the rest of As to President Chavez being mainly of taking His “people’s revolution” consists The government is trying to placate the population Finally, his oil “deal” for the poorer EC countries So Kent, I hope you and your boat are in Venezuela You are right about the dogs; and I never said “all Where do I live? On my yacht in the Caribbean, did- I also didn’t say everyone was stupid. However there lier remarks on security offering a simple effective method of securing your boat at night (or when you are away), so you can sleep soundly in your bunk and have the breeze running through the boat. If more people listened to her advice there would be fewer incidents. Most police authorities worldwide promote prevention as a crime deterrent, yet you don’t agree. at 3:00 es in February to my letter in December’s issue: rape offensive and sexist. You consider a woman to be no more than a possession? lines that you added words of your own to my letter. I never said that all the “bad guys” are local; we all know that some are cruisers. There is a criminal ele- ment in any society. down island, I assume he takes the “no problem mon” “no problem he takes the I assume down island, there But sometimes attitude. in an earlier exception to an article Gomez who took is a had claimed that Venezuela issue whose author Mr. has a “dictatorship economy”). dictatorship (or is a “modern instead, that Venezuela Gomez asserts, rest of the is “well regarded by the democracy” and the Caribbean”. world and especially Daily News Chavez the right to Venezuela has just given President just like all the other govern by Presidential Order, the world — Canada, the “modern democracies” in I’m sure the US Congress UK, France and Germany. legislation to allow is, as I write this, drafting Presidential Order. President Bush to govern by revolving seats on the UN the world, his bid for one of the not in the least because Security Council failed miserably, visit to the US when he badly abused his UN-sanctioned General Assembly to spew he used his address before the at the US and President outrageous personal insults host country (which, I would Bush, the head of state of his country). point out, is also the UN’s host class and wealthy citizens property from the middle distributing some of it to without compensation and his political allies — the the “poor” but most of it to same “equalization of wealth policy” being pursued by President Mugabe in Zimbabwe. through a system of price controls which set a legal, but artificially low, selling price for most basic com- modities. Because these prices are below the econom- ic price (at which the producer can recover his costs and make a reasonable profit) shortages develop as producers withhold under-priced goods and services from the marketplace. Chavez’ response is to send in the army and police to find “illegal” hoards of goods and to confiscate them for free distribution to “the people”. Sounds like a dictatorial economy to me. didn’t sell them oil for less than the market price, but allowed them to “defer” part of the payment to some unspecified time in the future. So this is in no way a humanitarian gesture, but a cynical plan to make as many countries as possible indebted to him so he can apply financial leverage to further his leftist goals in places he has no business meddling. when President Chavez or his minions decide that yachts owned by “rich” foreigners are an affront to “the people” and will be confiscated (without compen- sation, of course) and the owners tossed out of the country. That might help you understand the meaning of “modern democracy”. Bill Brady S/V Tempest Dear to emphasize that “This is our country and, contrary is our country that “This to emphasize run our country”. US does not belief, the to popular Bob Mercer S/V Ooh La La Estimado someone at your bunk side holding a knife to your throat demanding money — then good for you. I don’t have such delusions! A mesh grill at the companion- way at night is to keep the animals OUT, not in. dogs”, only the yappy ones. I should apologize for wanting to feed them to the sharks — it is the uncar- ing owner who hasn’t trained them that is to blame. n’t I say that already? The only time I have been a vic- tim of crime, so far, was through my own stupidity, which I freely admit. are people who come to the Caribbean and behave in a manner that calls their common sense into question. Bob Franklin ] Contrary to Bob’s , without my . I had arranged for my concerning security here, listen to the advice concerning security Compass My experience spanned the time period of January My experience spanned the to eight weeks, at a cost • Regular renewal takes six up to three weeks. With • Expedited service takes • I was further told by US Immigration that although Next, I checked with the Bahamian Consul General’s Due to tides and a tight schedule, I departed on Arriving at Georgetown Immigration at 1500 hours I replied that I had checked before departing with The Immigration agent’s further comment was, “I Notwithstanding the fact that it takes some time for This experience supports the president of Sandals’ So, is Venezuela a good place to visit? That depends a good place to visit? That So, is Venezuela Franklin’s comments in I would like to reply to Bob Dear I decided to help a friend 15 to February 4, 2007. River, Florida, to move his boat from Crystal before leaving. I took Georgetown, Bahamas. A week where it had been hiber- my passport out of the file It was 18 months out of nating for the last four years. facts: date. Here are some of the of US$75. internet and phone calls, constant follow-up via the my passport arrived USPS (the only one they use) Express Mail in two weeks. Good service, but it costs another US$75. I may be able to get into the Bahamas without a pass- port, I would not be allowed back into the US without a US or other passport. office in Miami to see if I could check into the Bahamas without a passport. I was told although the Bahamas was implementing a “passport only” policy, the implementation had been put on hold for 30 days and that I could enter with a birth certificate and a picture ID such as my Florida driver’s license. The person I was talking to emphasized that I would most likely be denied re-entry into the US. To confirm this I tried to reach Immigration in Nassau but after several attempts and no pick-up on the ringing phone I did no further verification. Main Bris wife to FedEx it to me if and when I reached Georgetown. (Having lived and cruised on a boat for many years I knew the time and place of arrival could be affected by many things, including but not limited to weather and gear breakdowns. Besides, it was peak time for the “polar express” fronts.) on February 4, I attempted to check in with my dri- ver’s license and birth certificate. The young woman quickly said, “You must have known about the January 23, 2007, deadline of entry into the Bahamas with a passport only!” the Bahamian Consul General’s office in Miami and was told that this deadline had been extended for 30 days, and if that had changed I would have had no way of knowing as I was at sea. She doubted my story and said she was going to apply the Bahamian law as she knew it and how she was instructed to apply it. She further told me I must get back on board and the boat should leave Bahamian waters until I had my passport. After further pleading and telling her that my passport would be there on Monday via FedEx to Exuma Market, she said she would call her supervisor in Nassau. After some dis- cussion — in which she took my side — I was allowed to enter for one week and told to show her my pass- port immediately after receiving it. wish Nassau and the US would make up their minds on what they want to do so we little people know what to do.” She was very nice and just as frustrated as I was. At 1700 hours we went down to Regatta Point with her two young children and fished and visited. edicts from Nassau to filter down to the Out Islands (and know that many of the Out Islands consider Nassau a foreign country), if I had arrived by air or cruise ship rather than private yacht, I may not have had such a tough time. claim that the new rule will affect travel to the Bahamas in the short and maybe the long term. US citizens are used to going in and out of the Bahamas as if they were a US territory like the USVI. Impulse travel and nearness to the US, along with the former ease of checking in and out, was a definite advantage to visiting the Bahamas. given by your marina and fellow cruisers, then it is no marina and fellow cruisers, given by your 0200 hours. walking around Hyde Park at different than Peter Phillips Venezuela us that the new (US pass- wrote: “It is inconceivable to any effect on Caribbean port) ‘Regulations’ would have costs are minuscule com- travel plans. The effort and costs.” pared to the planned travel for a US citizen travel- comments, there are problems both in entering the host ing to a foreign country, to the US. country as well as returning upon your own demeanor. If you adopt a positive atti- demeanor. If you adopt a upon your own articles in the take note of the various tude, read and Compass Forum. [ the January issue’s Readers’ —Continued page from previous looking for Nirvana are in the Caribbean If cruisers will find that you To well be disappointed. they may South the Indian or some atoll in head south to have to down- is on a hemisphere Ocean; the northern Pacific self indulgence. greed and due to man’s ward spiral APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand Dear Kailani III Lin Rankin ing mydinghy. when Ileavetogoashoreissecondnature,aslock- because wesleepwellatnight.Lockinguptheboat ment oftheislands.Ifanything,itenhances locking upatnightisnotdetrimentaltoourenjoy- cruiser, whichauthoritywouldyouexpecttoact? someone elsetodealwithitforyou.Ifthethiefwerea that, criminalsdon’tplaybytherules,butyou’llexpect the keysinignition?Whileitisyourrighttodo insurance companythatyou’dleftbothunlockedand are yougoingtoexplainthelocalauthorityandyour your boatwasanchoredonlytofindit’snotthere,how your dinghy’smissingandyougetarideouttowhere should befinedforstupidity. who lefthisboatwideopen?Absolutely!Thelatter boards weresmashedtogainentrythanacruiser going tolookmorekindlyonacruiserwhosewash- own property.DoIthinkthelocalpolicechiefis will expectyoutotakeduediligenceprotectyour contents insurancewhenanycompany very lucky.I’dliketoknowhowyoumanageget with thedoorunlockedandwindowsopen,youare lem tostartwith? simple precautionsthatmayhavenegatedtheprob- local authoritiestodealwithcrimeifyoucan’ttake live withthatchoice.Whyshoulditallbelefttothe make achoiceaboutyourownsecurityandthenyou that notwhatMelodyetriestogetacross?Youeach because theopportunitieswouldnotbethere—is property therewouldbemuchlessofaproblem planet. Ifeachpersonwereresponsiblefortheirown his boatopenIshoulddothesame,he’sonanother island isless. ple arrivingontheirboatsandexpenditureper Cruisers don’tbecausethereisnotthevolumeofpeo- brings millionsofdollarstotheislandseachyear. increase thereaswell. now recommendlockingdinghiesastheftsareonthe Most ofthebareboatchartercompaniesinBVI occurrence; astrongcableandlockisrecommended. you canfinditagain!Dinghytheftthereisaregular on thedinghydockinMarigot,St.Martin,andseeif had lockedityou’dknowwherewas.Tryparking dinghy whenyougetbacktothedock,fine,butif ed purpose. are foralargepieceofsailclothotherthanitsintend- the islandsifyouhaven’tseenhowmanyusesthere your friend’ssailtheftbutyouhaven’ttraveledwithin against cruisers.Idon’tknowthecircumstancesof safer islandsandhavelittleinthewayofcrime islands areunsafe. ride fromastranger.AndIamnotsayingthatall area onyourownandnotlockingup,oracceptinga full ofcashatthelocalbar.Anchoringinanunsafe expensive jewelryinPortofSpainorflashingawallet Like goingtothesupermarketinabikini,wearing frompreviouspage —Continued advantage withtheselightsis thattheyarenotat all turns itselfonatdark andoffatsunrise.Theonlydis- relying onasmalllight butaveryeffectivelens.Italso legal. Itusesabout a tenthofanamp,thevisibility claims tobevisible for twomiles,andsomaywellbe than theChinesegeneric), alittlehang-uplightwhich $40 ifyoubuytheoneyachtieDavisversion rather cost ishigh.Youcanalsobuy,forabout $25 (orabout tive andusesalmostnocurrent,though theinitial alternatives. AproperLEDanchorlight isveryeffec- had onview. would quiterightlyrefusetopayupifthat isallyou shore. Ifaboatcollidedintoyoursthe insurance to seeifanyotherlightsarearoundon theseaor ply withinternationalregulations,andare impossible marginally betterthannothing.Butthey donotcom- night withnootherboatsaroundtheymayjustbe problem withthem,andonapitchblackmoonless They areofcoursetotallyinoffensive,soIhaveno rechargeable LEDlightsusedtomarkgardenpaths. — whatIcallthe“gardengnome”lightthosesolar- The besttimetodothisisat0300hours. gency?” asitlookslikeanemergencydistresssignal. the boatinquestionandasks“Whatisemer- contrary toregulations. as theuseofastrobeforananchorlightisclearly sued, andhisinsurancecompanywouldnotpayup ble theyachtownerdisplayingstrobecouldbe for anavigationalmarker,Iwouldguessitispossi- one wreckedtheirboatbymistakingsuchastrobe annoying aswellbeingillegal.Moreover,ifsome- strobe lightsusedasanchorisextremely March issuethattheincessant“flash-flash-flash”of I takeMelodye’sadviceto“lockitorloseit”,and So, ifonedayyougetbackfromshoppingtofind If youliveinaneighborhoodwherecansleep If Klausisimplyingthatbecausemyneighborleaves As forclearances,againyoumissthepoint;tourism If youdon’tmindtrailingaroundlookingforyour Antigua andGrenadahavealwaysbeentwoofthe These daystherearetwoveryeffective low-current Which bringstomindtheotherfavoriteyachtlight I suggestanyonewhoseessuchalightgoesupto I wouldagreewithLauraSargent,whowroteinthe Compass , name maybewithheldinprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however, your individual regattaresultscomplaints(kudos areokay!). a waywecancontactyouifclarificationis required. Dear CompassReaders, Will-O-the-Wisp Honoree andWaltCooper All thebest, derful; itisgoodtoberemindedofjustthat. what wetakeforgrantedissospectacularandwon- the goodlifeistobesharedandnourished.Realizing never beapprehensiveagain,forthedreamofliving to learnhowmuchcompanymeansus.Wewill Will-O-the-Wisp group; caughtalittletunaandatesushi;sailedthe tagged thehawksbillturtleswithconservationist in thedinghyandalmostswamwiththemcloseup; witnessed anoctopusmating;chasedapodofdolphins never snorkeledbefore,itmustbemagical.Tatyana fish thatisdifficulttoimagine.Andsomeonewhohas off tocollege. dealing withanemptynestastheboyshaveheaded leave. Havingsucceededindoingjustthat,sheis Russia andspentheryounglifefiguringoutawayto She vowednottolosethemaworldoffightingin her strengthtoleaveRussiawithtwoyoungboys. sion of$150.WebecameenamoredwithTatyanaand the hardlifeherparentsstillliveonamonthlypen- years. ShehadstoriestotelloflifeinRussiaand has beenlivinginSanFranciscoforthelastnine never adullminute.TatyanagrewupinRussiaand tagious andherzestforlifeinfectioustherewas a five-year-oldaround.”Butherexcitementwascon- Randy's commentsortofscaredme:“It’slikehaving was threehourslate,puttingusaftermidnight. Almost hadtochangethedateagain,forplane huge signandadate,makingthemostoftheirerror. er flightintwodays.Notofftoagoodstart! hundred dollarslater,theywereabletosecureanoth- plane hadtakenoffandlandedinPuertoRico.Afew mixed upanddidn’tdiscovertheirerroruntilthe worried. No,intheirexcitementtheygotthedays that hitOrlandoperhapsaffectedthemandwewere the dayaftertomorrow.Welearnedthattornadoes find theyhadmissedtheplaneandrescheduledfor went throughthegate,wetoticketagent Bonaire togreettheplane.Afterlastpassenger snorkeled before! first maskandsnorkel.Ohmy,shehadnever received statedthattheywereheadedofftobuyher dryer; onandwesuffered.Thelaste-mail would shepitchinwithchores;bringahair all thewater;couldshetoleratesmallspace; plans tocruisefulltime. adapted toboatlifeandseeifshewouldfitinhis the waters”withher.Theplanwastoseehowshe had anewgirlfriendandhewantedtoliterally“test that wehadnotmetbefore.Randy,afriendforyears, Dear [email protected] Ireland Don Street Thanks foryourinput, Bay, Bequia. channel; andsoundingsonthenorthsideofAdmiralty ling depthintheoldchanneltowestofnew leading intoMt.HartmanBay,Grenada,andcontrol- being soughtiscontrollingdepthforthenewchannel how toimprovethecharts.Informationparticularly ideal timetosendincorrectionsorsuggestionson Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle Happy andsafesleeping, Budget Marinecarryatleastoneversionofthislight. able modification.BothIslandWaterWorldand bunch anditisnottoohardtocomeupwithasuit- er comesfirst.However,weyachtiesarearesourceful a coupleofyears—oruntilthefirstrainfall,whichev- waterproof, soifyouusethemasis,theywilllastfor St. Vincent &theGrenadines Bequia Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass Publishing Ltd. or or fax(784)457-3410 [email protected] Send yourlettersto: We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaints or Please includeyourname,boatnameoraddress, and We wanttohearfromYOU! It wasatreattosharetheexperiencewithherand The watersofBonairearefilledwithaspectrum Tatyana istakingpicturesofEVERYTHING! Again wewenttogreetthembutthistimewitha The dayarrivedandwewenttotheairportin We wereofcourseapprehensive;wouldsheuseup This wasgoingtobeafirstforus,havingcompany Imray-Iolaire chartsarenowbeingre-drawn,an Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityand fairplay. Compass Compass — andtookathousandpictures. Readers, Readers, APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 ’87 $ 59K ’00 $ 75K $115,000 Super maintained! Lowest on Market! 44' 1977 CSY POWER New Rigging, Genset, new AP, New Rigging, Genset, MULTIHULLS 38’ Hunter 380, 3cab/1hd, In St Vincent37’ Beneteau Idylle, 3cab/2hd, ’99 $ 89K Sail Power 37’ CSY 37 Cutter, 2cab/2hd Good upgrades36’ Tiburon, 1cab/1hd Solid cruiser!36’ Beneteau M362, 2cab/1hd, ’78 $ 45K 36’ Jeanneau Sun Odyssey, 2cab/1hd36’ Hunter Vision 36, 2cab 1 owner since new! ’9235’ Beneteau 351 Oceani, 2cab/1hd35’ O’Day, 2cab/1hd, Great condition $ 62K 32’ Beneteau 322, 2cab/1hd aft ckpt ’7632’ Catalina 320, 2cab/1hd $ 47K ’9946’ Fountaine Pajot Bahia 4cab/4hd $ 70K 45’ Prout Catamarans, 2 cab Never chartered!44’ Voyage Norseman 440 4cab/4hd ’95 ’95 ’8742’ Lagoon, 3cab/2hd, 2 available from… $260K $ TBA $ 45K 42’ Solaris Cat, 4cab/4hd, in Rio Dulce ’9940’ Fountaine Pajot Lavezzi, Owner’s Version $ 56K 38’ Fount.Pajot Athena, 4cab/2hd ’03 ’92 ’01 $295K 56’ Horizon Motor yacht, Immaculate condition! ’01 $239K $370K 50’ Hatteras Sportfisherman, 3 cab/2 head ’02 $690K ’8648’ Horizon 48 Motor Yacht, 3 cab/3 head $360K $119K ’0142’ Nova Marine Trawler, Sundeck trawler42’ Hershine 42, Motor yacht 4 cab/4 head $ 85K ’8136’ Heritage East 36 2cab/2hd, galley down $295K 35’ Maxum SCR 3500, 2 cab/1 head ’00 ’98 ’9927’ Eastern 27 Down East, 1 cab $310K ’89 $249K ’01 $159K $ 99K $199K ’01 $129K ’06 $ 99K ’79 $159K [email protected] Tel: (340) 779-1660 Fax: (340) 779-2779 St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. 00802 U.S.V.I. St. Thomas, www.stthomasyachts.com Well maintained! SAIL P.O Box 638, Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands, Compass Point Marina, 6300 Est. Frydenhoj, Suite 28, Frydenhoj, 6300 Est. Point Marina, Compass $145,000 website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 70 boats website: www.bviyachtsales.com / Call for a complete list of over 50' '90 Morgan Catalina, 50' '90 Morgan Tel: 284-494-3260 Fax: 284-494-3535, email: [email protected] ST. THOMAS YACHT THOMAS ST. SALES 3 strm, new eng, chain plates 3 strm, new eng, Call, fax or visit our website for a complete list of boats for sale Call, fax or visit our website 34' '89 Pacific Seacraft43' '84 Young Sun PH44' '82 Ta Chiao CT cruiser in great condition Bluewater 50' '90 Morgan Catalina, eng. Inside steering, AC, AP, new 95,000 $ eng, chain plates 3 strm, new $119,000 Perkins 4-108 Canoe Stern, 30' '68 Fjord Diplomat,35' '88 Luhrs Alura $105,000 $145,000 42' '81 Post Sportfish twin gas, All around weekender, 48' '89 Hi Star Trawler very good condition Twin DD's, Sleeps 4, twin Crusaders, fish or cruise $ 56,000 Sundeck, 3 strms, 375HP Cats $174,900 $ 27,000 $125,000 54’ Gulfstar 54, 3cab/2hd, Luxurious&spacious ’8652’ Jeanneau Su Ody, 3cab/3hd Loaded! $349K 46’ Kelly Peterson, 2cab/2hd, Immaculate!46’ Hunter 460, 2cab/ 2hd, Well equipped!46’ Hunter 460, 3cab/ 2hd 40K Price drop!45’ Downeast Yacht, 3cab/2hd, ’03 ’83 $465K $199K ’01 ’00 $189K $149K 45’ Hardin Voyager, 4cab/2hd Bargain!45’ Bombay Explorer, 2cab/2hd World cruiser!44’ Beneteau 44CC, 2cab/2hd, In great shape! ’7844’ CSY 44 2cab/2hd, Reduced – Motivated! $ 65K ’9444’ CSY Walkover, 2cab/2hd, Great condition! $198K ’7944’ Nordic Cutter 2cab/1hd Refit 2000! ’79 ’77 $165K 44’ Moody CC, 2cab/1hd, Great value! $ 70K $ 85K 43’ Irwin Mark III, 2cab/2hd, In excellent shape! ’8943’ Mason, 2cab/1hd, World Cruiser! $149K 43’ Serendipity, 2cab/1hd, Performance Cruiser ’8142’ Dufour Gibsea, 2 cab/2 hd, Well maintained! ’01 $ 69K ’8642’ Jeanneau CC 2 cab/2 hd, Recent upgrades! $129K ’9742’ Beneteau 42 CC 2cab/2hd Reduced! $139K ’95 $142K 42’ J Boat J/130, 2cab/1hd, Fully equipped! $175K 41’ Morgan 416, Ketch, 2cab/2hd ’8141' Formosa 42, 2 cab/1hd, New Listing ’9340’ Island Packet, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing $129K ’0340’ Beneteau M405, 3cab/2hd, Loaded! $199K 40’ Bayfield, 2cab/2 hd, New Listing! $179K ’77 $ 59K 40’ O’Day, 2 cab/1 hd, Comfortable cruiser!40’ Catalina 400, 2cab/2hd, New Listing ’98 $239K ’86 ’95 $ 59K ’83 $119K $ 78K ’84 ’95 $110K $139K CARICOM) ( visitors to enter the coun- all ] the Month the , Letter of Letter Editor’s note: The Cricket World Cup 2007 matches are currently Editor’s note: The Cricket World Readers, Compass Caribbean Compass I realise that, sadly, security is an issue that has to be addressed and this costs I realise that, sadly, security The International Cricket Council Cricket World Cup 2007, which began on 5 March, The International Cricket Council Cricket World Cup 2007, host venue countries plus During the period 1 February to 15 May, the nine Market It was decided by the Caribbean Community and Common Ironically, the exempted countries appear to be the majority of foreign vessels in Ironically, the exempted countries nationals of some countries I’d like a tourism minister to explain how and why for the first time ever I’ve I expect to leave the Caribbean in a few months feeling It does seem unfortunate that visitors to the Caribbean from a number of countries It does seem unfortunate that visitors to the Caribbean Paying a “Cricket World Cup tax” also seems unfair to the numerous people from By the way, we think it would be a great boon if the Single Domestic Space concept * CARICOM members are: Antigua & Barbuda, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, I’m an Australian cruising yachtsman who arrived in Antigua on Christmas Day arrived in Antigua on Christmas cruising yachtsman who I’m an Australian money. With the small population of taxpayers, the various islands can’t afford this money. With the small population to raise the money from other sources. Surely the logi- out of their coffers, so need not fees and the international media rights. If this is cal answer is to raise ticket is to put a visa fee on enough, then the fairest method is being played through 28 April. The games, including warm-up fixtures, are being is being played through 28 April. The games, including St. Lucia, Trinidad held in Jamaica, St. Kitts & Nevis, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Barbuda. & Tobago, Barbados, Guyana, Grenada, and Antigua & and during that period special Dominica are operating as a “Single Domestic Space”, to any of these ten countries. visa arrangements apply to all visitors for any purpose that people would be able The intention of the temporary Single Domestic Space was visa to ensure hassle-free to travel among these countries using a single CARICOM During this period, travellers movement for visitors to the 2007 Cricket World Cup. stamped and have to within the Single Domestic Space will only have their passport port of entry. When continu- submit completed entry and departure forms at the first (including those using the ing travel throughout the Single Domestic Space, persons processed to clear Customs common visa) will not be required to have their documents and Immigration and will not have their stamped. Dear the Caribbean and those in the minority are hit. It’s not the fee that concerns me the minority are hit. It’s not the fee that concerns the Caribbean and those in it is applied. I left Antigua after collecting my mail and but the unfairness in the way in countries where I feel welcome and not discrimi- now spend my time and money on it’s the small local businesses that have missed out nated against. So in my case the restaurants, taxis, laundry ladies, chandleries, mar- a few thousand dollars — ket stalls, bars, etcetera. others are exempted. Was it a have to pay a visa fee to cover “cricket security” while a lower fee across all, which case of pulling names out of a hat? Why don’t they apply also left these islands con- would be much fairer? I know of other vessels that have where they feel welcome. cerned and are now spending their money in other islands be the nice memory it should sensed discrimination as an Australian; sadly it won’t be of these islands. Yours faithfully, Leigh von Bertouch Yacht Mi Querida tries concerned. To exempt some and hit others is discrimination. It seems ludicrous tries concerned. To exempt his come to see the cricket and not pay this fee towards that a Brit, for example, can who doesn’t know one end of a cricket pitch from own security, yet a Norwegian than me of what is a leg bye, has to pay the fee with another or has any more idea match. no intention of watching a participating in the World Cup — in particular keen cricket fans from India, Pakistan, participating in the World Cup — in particular keen cricket visa. Australia and New Zealand — will need to obtain the US$100 non-exempt countries who are visiting the affected area for any other reason whatso- ever (yachting, business, beach holidays, diving, weddings, eco-tours, etcetera, etcetera) during this time. We have heard other tales of woe from yachtspeople who have sailed these waters before without needing a visa and now are unpleasantly surprised to be asked to pay US$100 for one, even if just visiting an island for a day or two. Regattas in the affected countries during the period in question include the Bequia Easter Regatta (5 to 9 April), the Grenada “Round-the-Island” Easter Regatta (5 to 9 April), the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta (19 to 24 April), Antigua Sailing Week (29 April to 5 May) and Angostura Tobago Sail Week (13 to 18 May). These sailing events usually enjoy wide international participation, and it will be interesting to see what, if any, impact the temporary “cricket visa” requirement has on yachting as well as other tourism sectors. as used for cricket could be adopted for another type of “sports tourism” — yachting. Requiring that yachting visitors only clear in and out at their first and last port of entry, at least within the English-speaking Eastern Caribbean, would eliminate one of the major drawbacks to yachting in the sub-region — having to clear in and out of a different country every few miles. (In fact, it’s such a repetitious exercise, many skippers often — albeit illegally — avoid doing it.) If the “hassle-free movement for visitors” Single Domestic Space experiment is a success for the one-off World Cricket Cup, we hope the powers that be will give favorable consideration to instituting it on a permanent basis for the benefit of the sub-region’s perennially valuable yacht tourism industry. CC Dominica, Grenada, Guyana, Haiti, Jamaica, Montserrat, Saint Kitts & Nevis, , Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, Suriname, and Trinidad & Tobago. heads of state that nationals from all countries — except Canada, France, Germany, heads of state that nationals from all countries — except the United States, South Ireland, Italy, Japan, the Netherlands, the United Kingdom, of Haiti — would require a Africa, Spain, and CARICOM countries* with the exception to enter the region CARICOM Special Visa, at a fee of US$100 per visa application, 12 years of age (and a few during the period 1 February to 15 May. Children under require a visa will not be others, such as merchant seamen and airline crew) who charged the fee. For more information visit www.caricomimpacs.org. Dear 2005, nine years after leaving Australia. I was made to feel very welcome in all the I was made to feel very welcome after leaving Australia. 2005, nine years entering last Venezuela. I really enjoyed from St. Martin to Caribbean countries again this looked forward to participating Classic Yacht Regatta and year’s Antigua to on February 1, 2007, after departing January 11, year — until I returned there ex-British island I’m up for a US$100 visa fee to cover find that if I now enter any “cricket security”. [ being held in a number of English-speaking islands. being held in a number of English-speaking APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 E-mail [email protected] m US$85,000Tel(340)775-7898 [email protected] equipment list/photos years, daysailingUSVI.For rare find!"Oneowner,30 Perkins 4-108,2006survey."A cabin/trim, sprucespars, bronze fasteners,teak strip-planked Mahogany, aboard andoff-shoresailing, ship/Finisterre, readyforliving YAWL 39' SPARKMAN&STEPHENS (758) 489-4433 contact Mr.KhaninSt.LuciaTel Built 1964,Formoreinformation 50' DAYSAILINGCATAMARAN [email protected] (+596) 696-907429E-mail equipped. 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Safeandcapable. berths, newdinghy,loadsof hrs. lovelyredwoodinterior,5 ging, goodsails,Volvo36hplow er, inUSVirginIslands.Newrig- WESTSAIL 32, [email protected] condition US$30,000E-mail wheel steering,lotsmore.Good , 2mains,spinnaker,TV,CD, Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip,2 PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 mail [email protected] Peter ErnstTel(784)488-8000E- in theGrenadinesUS$28,000 and somefishinggear,loctaed life vests,fenders,alltheropes charger, fishfinder/GPS,anchors, Yamaha Enduros,trimtabs,solar condition. 2xreliable75hp A no-nonsenseboatingood 27' BOWENPIROGUE Tel (868)739-6449 Sail Meter,1.9M/Euro,Trinidad, , builtinGermany1970,new MISC. FORSALE in EnglishHarbour, ADVERTISERS INDEX proven worldcruis- One newdiesel CLASSIFIEDS with T-Top. 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Thus extreme- in any aircraft for the most you end up accepting you end up accepting air travel

as just another mode of transport of the Caribbean islands regularly, of the Caribbean islands regularly, the same seat

But, elsewhere, times were slowly changing. Low-cost (which translates to low- But, elsewhere, times were slowly changing. Low-cost By 2006/7 we have the crazy situation of most of the traditional being in deep And yet these same airlines continue to support their, surely by now, antique and And getting any airline to provide someone to interview, to ask just why some of Perhaps it’s time for governments to take drastic action. Dump bankruptcy pro- My suggestion to existing carriers: don’t wait until someone else offers a low-cost I'm not a lover of flying but if you live on or visit any of the Caribbean islands reg- or visit any of the Caribbean of flying but if you live on I'm not a lover many business advantages denied to other com- Historically, airlines have enjoyed developed by the scheduled carriers was based on Financially, the business model As in most protected industries, the result of little competition among the airlines As in most protected industries, the result of little competition FLYING AROUND FLYING fare) carriers began emerging. Southwest, who began in 1971, are generally credit- fare) carriers began emerging. Southwest, who began the real first was Pacific ed with being the first in the modern era (although Southwest way back in 1949). They were, some years later, followed by RyanAir (1991) and EasyJet (1995) in Ireland and Britain respectively. The advantages to the ticket buyer of a simplified pricing system based on a single passenger class and one-way fares, with prices only increasing as the flight fills, encourages early commitment rather than a last-minute scramble as passengers try to buy at the discounts scheduled airlines tend to offer to fill aircraft in the last few days before the flight leaves. financial trouble while the low-cost carriers go on increasingly profitably. In the USA, Delta, United, US Air and Northwest have all declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy, while American has only just avoided doing so. Internationally, many others have thought of or actually declared bankruptcy as low-cost entrants come into their home markets. unworkable and obviously unprofitable business model. They only attempt to mod- ernise their systems to those which their customers obviously prefer when they come into direct competition with a low-cost carrier. their sillier policies still exist, is like trying to get blood from a stone. They don’t want to explain, they just want to be paid. tection. Let these virtually-broke airlines go to the wall, allow a new industry to grow in its place. Reagan/Thatcher economics showed that, although hard for a while, denying support for half-dead enterprises allowed businesses to regenerate or oth- ers to grow in their place, to the greater benefit of all in the long term. option and then try to compete; do it now. Innovate, dump the old, get with the new; don’t just stick your head in the sand and hope that “low cost won’t go everywhere.” It will. It’s just a matter of time. once Skytrain was gone, prices went back to their original levels. The subsequent once Skytrain was gone, prices went back to their original behavior made these airlines, threat of being sued by Laker for their uncompetitive settle out of court for together with Lufthansa, Air France and British Caledonian, had enjoyed, briefly, the first US$100 million, but that did not help the public who attempt at a truly international low-fare service. ularly, as I do, then you end up accepting air travel as just another mode of trans- air travel as just another then you end up accepting ularly, as I do, are generally a bus. But whereas buses on and off as you would port and jump flying is considered an unessential service, a luxury looked on as a public service, by the airline companies. almost, and costed as such they have legally been able to discuss their pricing struc- panies. Until very recently agree upon a common goal of achieving very similar tures among themselves and the It is only recently that governments, the USA and prices for any given route. been looking into past agreements with the industry Europeans in particular, have this less anti-competitive. Despite this move they are, to with a view to making them from competition by governments in any individual day, still artificially protected airlines from flying internal routes. Thus British Airways country forbidding foreign York but not on from there to Denver; and Iberia, who can fly from London to New can flights into the Caribbean from Europe, sometimes produce competitively-priced from London first to Madrid as only then can they only do this by flying a passenger the maybe, inconvenient certainly, but that’s what legally fly to Puerto Rico. Stupid rules make them do. selling was total inefficiency. Sold seat capacity for any given flight was often as low as 50 was total inefficiency. Sold seat capacity for any given through the roof as manage- percent, over-staffing was the norm and wages went too easy simply to raise ticket ment had no incentive to control costs, it being only ruthlessly squashed, as was prices. Any attempt by a start-up to compete was walk-off “Skytrain” serv- Freddy Laker’s attempt in 1977 to create a cheap walk-on Am and TWA agreed to tem- ice from London to New York. British Airways, Pan Laker’s level. Needless to say, porarily reduce prices (by a gigantic 66 percent!) to ly complicated rules were developed to ensure that as much was extracted from the to ensure that as much was extracted from ly complicated rules were developed a A simple example: those flying on business for whom traveling public as possible. the be inconvenient would pay considerably more than Saturday-night stopover may presumably part of the fun. holiday-maker for whom a Saturday night abroad is one-way flight can be, and fre- Other idiocies developed along the line; for example a quently is, twice as expensive as a return fare! APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 30 29 -5May 28 -29 28 27 -29 26 25 -29 25 -26 22 -28 22 21 -29 21 20 -22 19 -24 19 17 14 12 -2May 9 -10 9 8 7 -9 6 -9 6 5 -9 5 -9 5 -9 5 -7 5 2 APRIL directly forconfirmation. Compass All informationwascorrecttothebestof ourknowledgeatthetimethisissueof TBA TBA TBA 31 -4June 30 29 28 27 26 -27 25 -27 25 -27 25 -26 25 24 -28 22 20 17 -19 17 -19 16 -20 14 13 -18 12 -13 11 -13 10 8 7 -8 6 -23 5 5 4 -13 3 2 1 1 MAY If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREEinourcalendar, please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent nameand Circus onaYacht,MarinaBasduFort,Guadeloupe.www.voilierspectacle.com Queen’s Birthday.PublicholidayinNetherlandsAntilles (TTSA), tel(868)634-4210/4519,fax634-4376, 8th AnnualInt’lCancerBenefitRegatta,Trinidad.Trinidad&TobagoSailingAssn. National Heroes’Day.PublicholidayinBarbados 6th CarriacouMaroonMusicFestival.www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html Guadeloupe toAntiguaRace.AYC Caribbean FilmFestival,St.Barts.www.st-barths.com St. ThomasUSVICarnival Earth Day Barbados CongalineCarnival (RBVIYC), tel(284)494-3286,fax494-6117,www.rbviyc.net Virgin QueenPizzaPursuitRace,BVI.RoyalBritishIslandsYachtClub Tobago JazzFestival,Plymouth, See adonpage7 www.antiguaclassics.com. 20th AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta. Declaration ofIndependenceDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela José deDiegoDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Underwater Cleanup,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com Goat andCrabRaces,MountPleasantBuccooVillage,Tobago Easter Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Easter Sunday.7thAnnualModelBoatRace,CatamaranMarina,Antigua Virgin GordaEasterFestival Spanish TownFisherman’sJamboreeand11thAnnualWahooTournament,BVI Good Friday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Easterval Festival,UnionIsland.(784)458-8350 Grenada “Round-the-Island”EasterRegatta.www.aroundgrenada.com 26th BequiaEasterRegatta.www.begos.com/easterregatta [email protected] Martinique, tel(596)517324,fax:059670, (Optimists),Martinique.ClubNautiqueLeNeptune(CNN), Annual CompassWriters’Brunch,[email protected] FULL MOON www.ccregatta.com Second AnnualCaptainOliver’sCaribBeer Regatta,SaintMartin. 57th AnnualErnestHemingwayFishingTournament, Havana,Cuba.CNIH www.infobonaire.com 4th KingoftheCaribbeanFreestyleWindsurfingCompetition,Bonaire. Indian ArrivalDay.PublicholidayinTrinidad Memorial Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Whit Monday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces Anguilla Day.Publicholidayin tel (596)632676,fax9448,[email protected] Transcanal Race,MartiniquetoSt.Lucia.YachtClubdela(YCM), 7th BVIMusicFestival.www.bvimusicfest.net [email protected], www.weyc.net (WEYC), tel(284)4951002,fax495-4184, 33rd Foxy’sWoodenBoatRegatta,JostVanDyke.WestEndYachtClub 20th CuraçaoJazzFestival.www.curacao-actief.com Ascension Day.PublicholidayinSt.Barts,Bonaire Canouan Regatta.SailingClub(784)458-8197 Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinMartinique Independence Day.PublicholidayinCuba 3rd AnnualBonaireJazz&SalsaFestival.www.bonairenet.com [email protected] Le CombatdeCoquesRegatta,Martinique.ClubNautiqueduMarin(CNM), Around GuadeloupeRace,TriskellAssociation,www.triskellcup.com Mothers’ Day,PublicholidayinPuertoRico Angostura TobagoSailWeek,CrownPoint,Tobago.www.sailweek.com BVI DinghyChampionships,RBVIYC Anguilla Regatta.www.caribbeanracing.com www.worldcruising.com ARC EuropesetssailfromJollyHarbour,Antigua,toPortugal. Armistice Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies [email protected] Traditional BoatsRendezvous,St.Pierre,Martinique. Carib canoe World EnvironmentDay Ascension Day.PublicholidayinNetherlandsAntilles,Guadeloupe St. LuciaJazzFestival.http://stluciajazz.org www.carib1500.com West MarineAtlanticCupsetssailfromTortola,BVItoBermuda. FULL MOON Festival oftheSea,St.Barts May Day/LabourDay.Publicholidayinmanyplaces [email protected], www.ttsailing.org went topress—butplanschange,soplease contacteventorganizers 40th AntiguaSailingWeek.www.sailingweek.com St. MaartenCarnival 41st Antigua&BarbudaSportsFishingTournament. www.antiguanice.com/fish contact information oftheorganizingbodyto: Gli-Gli’s • [email protected], or CALENDAR Leeward [email protected] • fax(784)457-3410 APRIL 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited