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Fortean Traveller 122 - Magical Heights: San Marino, San Leo and Count Cagliostro

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Fortean Traveller 122 - Magical Heights: San Marino, San Leo and Count Cagliostro LJMU Research Online Gandy, RJ Fortean Traveller 122 - Magical Heights: San Marino, San Leo and Count Cagliostro http://researchonline.ljmu.ac.uk/id/eprint/13626/ Article Citation (please note it is advisable to refer to the publisher’s version if you intend to cite from this work) Gandy, RJ (2020) Fortean Traveller 122 - Magical Heights: San Marino, San Leo and Count Cagliostro. Fortean Times (FT396). ISSN 0308-5899 LJMU has developed LJMU Research Online for users to access the research output of the University more effectively. Copyright © and Moral Rights for the papers on this site are retained by the individual authors and/or other copyright owners. Users may download and/or print one copy of any article(s) in LJMU Research Online to facilitate their private study or for non-commercial research. You may not engage in further distribution of the material or use it for any profit-making activities or any commercial gain. The version presented here may differ from the published version or from the version of the record. Please see the repository URL above for details on accessing the published version and note that access may require a subscription. For more information please contact [email protected] http://researchonline.ljmu.ac.uk/ Fortean Traveller Marino, through wonderful 122. Magical Heights: San Marino, countryside. It is considered one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, and was capital of the San Leo and Count Cagliostro Italian kingdom between 961 and 963. According to legend, San Leo was founded by Leo, In early April 2019, ROB GANDY travelled with his wife Margaret to the Emilia- another stone-cutter from Romagna region of Italy and San Marino, ahead of a trip to Rome. He was not Dalmatia and friend of the aforementioned Marinus (before looking to find anything fortean – but something fortean found him... they both became saints), in order to spread the word of God. The village’s cobbled square is flanked by a ninth- century parish church and a Romanesque cathedral, home to centuries’ worth of art. Dominating the village is the large and spectacular fortress that sits atop the ancient Mons Feretrius at an elevation of 2,000ft (600m) above sea level. San Leo was always valued for its strategic situation, overlooking and helping to control the Val Marecchia. The current fortress was primarily built by the famous Sienese architect and engineer Francesco di Giorgio Martini in the late 1470s, and, with its squat round towers giving a sense of impenetrability, is one of the best examples of his ideas put into practice. He TONI PECORARO / CREATIVE COMMONS PECORARO / CREATIVE TONI ABOVE: A view of the forbidding Fortress of San Leo, where Cagliostro was imprisoned until his death in 1795. was the author of “a treatise on civil and military architecture” which inaugurated a new era an Marino is the capital fleeing Roman persecution. in fortification, and was much of the Republic of His séances The city is clearly something admired by Leonardo Da Vinci. San Marino, a small were the rage of a tourist centre, as witnessed The fortress employs the natural Sindependent country by the number of school and cliff face, bulwarks, corbels and surrounded by Italian territory. coach parties clambering up machicolations (floor openings Football fans will be aware of fashionable and down its steep streets and between the supporting corbels of it because its team is often along the path connecting the of a battlement, through which considered to be the worst Paris society towers. It is certainly a ‘must stones could be dropped on national side in the history visit’ location if you are in this attackers at the base of a of the sport; up to 2014 it had neck of the woods, and though defensive wall), along with only ever won one match of ancient defensive system and it’s not a particularly fortean innovative elbow-shaped walls 155 played, conceding 667 are celebrated on the country’s destination, there are several (as opposed to the largely goals (and scoring just 23) in flag and coat of arms. The first, fortean-themed attractions, circular design previously used). the process. 1 In fairness, it Guaita, was constructed in the with a heavy reliance on Control of San Leo moved from should also be mentioned that 11th century and was famous waxworks: two torture-related the Byzantines to the Lombards San Marino scored the second for being impenetrable, which museums (I didn’t expect and on to the Papacy, largely fastest goal in FIFA World Cup greatly discouraged attacks on the San Marino Inquisition), due to events elsewhere rather qualification history, against the city. At 2,477ft (755m) above a Museum of Curiosities, and than the fortress itself falling England (!) on 17 November sea level, there are fantastic the Museum of Vampires and into enemy hands. Indeed, one 1993 (8.3 seconds) before going views in all directions: the Werewolves! 2 Exactly why the of the only times it was taken by on to lose 7-1. While the lower Adriatic to the east at Rimini city should find itself host to force involved an intrepid raid reaches of the Republic are and the Apennines to the west. such curiosa I cannot say. in 1441, when enemy soldiers typically urban, the city itself Legend has it that the city was We had a spare day before scaled the mountain during the sits atop rugged Mount Titano, founded by the Dalmatian setting off for Rome, so my night and took the Malatestas by with its mediæval old town and stone-cutter Saint Marinus friends and colleagues, Alberto surprise. Machiavelli called this cobbled streets. There are three and several Christian refugees and Pietro, suggested they crag-top fortress Italy’s finest towers along its eastern ridge, in the year 301 and became a take us to San Leo, a little over military redoubt, while Dante which formed part of the city’s centre for Christian refugees 13 miles (21.5 km) from San drew inspiration from the castle 74 F T396 www.forteantimes.com 396 TRAVELLER v3.indd 74 30/07/2020 17:20 for parts of Purgatory in The d’Egitto’ he was seen as openly kept their treasure during that looked onto the staircase, Divine Comedy. challenging the Church. the numerous and repeated which guards could use to check It was upon arrival at the On a visit to Rome in 1789 assaults on the castle. The on him. Otherwise, the only entrance of the fortress that he met two people who were soldiers on duty day and night way into (or out of) the cell things got distinctly fortean: spies of the Inquisition (some were ordered not to talk to the was through a trap door in the there before us was a sign accounts suggest his wife prisoner, who had also been ceiling, which connected with referring to Alessandro Count betrayed him, denouncing banned from using paper, pen the guardhouse, immediately Cagliostro. Cagliostro was him as a heretic, magician and and ink. Access to the fortress above. The prisoner was renowned as an alchemist, Freemason). He was arrested was constantly monitored and lowered into the cell through occultist, and magician who and imprisoned in the Castel all foreigners banned. But this hatch, as was his food. claimed to be capable of psychic Sant’Angelo, before being tried there were rumours that some Supervision by the guards was healing and scrying, although for heresy and sedition and of Cagliostro’s supporters continuous. Indeed, they could many viewed him as a charlatan sentenced to death in 1790. were plotting his escape, and keep Cagliostro under watch and adventurer. His life is His Masonic manuscripts, therefore Count Semproni, without themselves being seen, shrouded in rumour, propaganda regalia and instruments were the man in charge, decided to which was important to them and mysticism; it was only publicly destroyed in Rome’s transfer him to the ‘Pozzetto’ as they feared his gaze, by after his arrest for possible Piazza della Minerva. However, cell, located in the central part which they might be hypnotised participation in the ‘Affair of Cagliostro publicly renounced of the keep, which he considered and induced into freeing the Diamond Necklace’, a plot the principles of his professed even safer and stronger than him. Occasionally, they would that defamed Queen Marie doctrine, and was pardoned by the Treasury. (‘Pozzetto’ means descend into the cell to carry Antoinette and paved the way Pope Pius VI, who commuted the a ‘manhole’ or ‘shaft’ to a out periodical inspections of the for the French revolution, 3 sentence to life imprisonment sewer, which gives some idea room and prisoner. that it was established he was in the fortress at San Leo, from of the conditions). Cagliostro’s Although many other born Giuseppe Balsamo in which it was considered to be imprisonment lasted more prisoners were housed in the Palermo, Sicily, in 1743. He impossible to escape. than four years, and documents ‘Pozzetto’ over the years, it is not was the son of poor parents, I had been completely concerning his treatment, based surprising that it is commonly but his grandfather and uncles unaware of the connection on humanitarian principles, are referred to as ‘Cagliostro’s ensured that he received a solid between Cagliostro and San Leo, preserved in the Pesaro State Cell’. And it was on 26 August education. After a series of but taking it as an example of Archive. 1795, now seriously ill, that he minor crimes, he escaped from fortean serendipity, explored The ‘Pozzetto’ was of died due to a stroke.
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