EILEEN FISHER GOES BIG/2 QUEEN CARLA, DAY TWO/9 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’FRIDAY Daily Newspaper • March 28, 2008 • $2.00 Beauty A New Facet David and Sybil Yurman have added something new to their portfolio of jewels: a women’s fragrance set to launch in August. The scent, a fl oral chypre, will be sold in less than 300 specialty store doors in the U.S. and could do $15 million at retail in its fi rst year on counter in the U.S. and Canada. For more, see page 4.

Li & Fung’s 3-Year Plan: Sourcing Giant Aiming For $20 Billion in Sales By Constance Haisma-Kwok HONG KONG — Global economic problems might be causing concern from New York to New Delhi, but Li & Fung is feeling no ill effects — and sees plenty of opportunity for growth both organically and through acquisitions. The apparel sourcing giant said Thursday that sales in 2007 registered their strongest growth in seven years — a 36 percent gain — as it revealed a three-year plan to grow core operating profits to $1 billion and revenues to $20 billion by 2010. Of this, $16 billion will come from its core sourcing business and $4 billion from onshore business in See Li & Fung, Page 10 PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 WWD.COM High Times for Eileen Fisher By Whitney Beckett Florida, a 2,800-square-foot space that is the fi rst built to WWDFRIDAY his is Eileen Fisher’s moment. specifi cally house the brand’s Beauty T With the company’s fi rst home collection. The 42nd store TV campaign airing next month, is slated to open next month in GENERAL its 41st store opening next week San Diego. Global economic problems might be causing concern from New York to and Fisher herself being induct- On Thursday and this coming 1 New Delhi, but apparel sourcing giant Li & Fung is feeling no ill effects. ed into the Westchester County Saturday, the company is host- Women’s Hall of Fame today, ing “all store events,” the big- With its fi rst TV ad campaign and 41st store opening next week, Eileen the $254 million bridge com- gest shopping days for its retail 2 Fisher, the $254 million bridge company, is thriving as others struggle. pany has much to celebrate — stores and Web site. Fisher’s ac- Wet Seal Inc. posted a fourth-quarter profi t and said it will roll out a line even as the rest of the industry counts across the country part- 3 from Ashlee Simpson to coincide with her new CD, “Bittersweet World.” counts its pennies. ner with a local nonprofi t (the “This is a terrifying time, New York metro stores selected David and Sybil Yurman are aiming to juice up their jewelry business but I feel safer than I’ve felt in the Lower East Side Girls Club), 4 with their fi rst foray into the fragrance market. our history,” Fisher said. “I’ve the nonprofi t’s representatives There’s a reason Tova Borgnine is called QVC’s fi rst lady of beauty and had the experience of actually are there to educate staff and has sold 10 million bottles of her fragrance without women smelling it. doing well in rough times in customers about their mission 8 the past, maybe because the and 10 percent of the day’s pro- In a sign that NAFTA will remain in the spotlight in the presidential clothes are simple and have a ceeds go to the nonprofi t. 10 election, policy advisers for the three candidates explained their stance. timeless quality around them, Fisher also is broadening its Amid an aggressive expansion in metro Boston, Nordstrom hosted a so people don’t feel like they marketing efforts to appeal to a charity gala at its Burlington Mall store that opens today. are buying something terribly new — and younger — customer, 13 frivolous or wasteful.” which could even mean a second- H&M said store openings and lower buying costs lifted fi rst-quarter The brand has been grow- ary line in the brand’s future. 13 profi ts 28 percent, showing its ability for strong growth in tough times. ing by 15 to 20 percent annually “We’re certainly hoping to get over the last fi ve years — and more younger clients,” the de- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 even faster expansion could signer said. “We have all these To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. lie ahead as it gains space on great samples and things that [email protected], using the individual’s name. bridge floors in the approxi- don’t make it into the line be- An image from Eileen Fisher’s spring mately 500 specialty stores and cause they don’t fi t old ideas of ad campaign. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 600 department store doors the line. What can we do about ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 67. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with that? We see this younger line ture or garment. We have these one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and emerging inside. Do we create big meetings all the time, and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of another line? Do we open a dif- during one of them we were Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, ferent kind of store? Do we mar- watching the video and some- Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ ket it differently? Somehow it one yelled out, ‘That should be Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications will emerge naturally. Anything a TV ad.’ It just happened really Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: is possible within two years.” organically and spontaneously SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA The company’s recent ad like that.” 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE campaigns have helped attract Whether the company will do INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new younger customers, and that re- more commercials in the future subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production mains an ongoing goal as it ex- is yet to be decided. “Eileen correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, pands its marketing reach. doesn’t know if [TV commer- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fisher will spend $125,000 cials] will happen again,” the Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. on its fi rst TV campaign. The spokeswoman said. “She was If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 30-second spot airs April 2 and just really moved by the spirit 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, runs for the whole month in she saw and felt the video de- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED the Tristate area on news pro- served to reach as wide an audi- MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR grams on NBC and PBS, includ- ence as possible. We’re curious CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR ing “Meet the Press” and “The about the response.” DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. NewsHour With Jim Lehrer.” The company also is ex- “Our customer and poten- tending its reach to more tial customers are in tune with fashion-hungry consumers. what’s going on in the world,” For spring 2008, Fisher is ad- vertising in Harper’s Bazaar for the first time and is buying Quote of the Week This is a terrifying time, but I feel more space in The New York Times’ style sections. “[Men] respond to ankles. Especially “safer than I’ve felt in our history. Fisher also is making head- lines of her own, as she today if you have a long skirt and it shows — Eileen” Fisher will become the first woman inducted into the Westchester the ankle.” that Dana Buchman and Ellen said a spokeswoman for the com- County Women’s Hall of Fame Tracy once monopolized. Both pany. (The only TV shows Fisher from the business category. — Actress Mimi Weddell brands had been anchors of the watches are news programs.) The luncheon at the Rye Town once-thriving bridge market for The footage for the com- Hilton is expected to raise more years, but when their parent, Liz mercial is taken from behind- than $134,000 to fund 35 schol- Claiborne Inc., put them on re- the-scenes action at the shoot arship awards, and Fisher is view last year, it opened spaces for the company’s spring 2008 partially being honored for her that Eileen Fisher is at least ads, which was filmed by company’s support of the Hall of In Brief partially fi lling. Now Buchman Michelle McDonald, a member Fame’s scholarship program. is going down-market to Kohl’s of Fisher’s in-house ad team. More broadly, she is being ● MOB TESTIMONY DELAYED: The fashion industry will have to and Ellen Tracy is transitioning McDonald has been filming recognized for her work to im- wait to see if former trim producer Lewis Kasman’s appearance to new owners. makings of the ad campaigns prove women’s lives and as a at a Brooklyn Federal Court mob trial includes a stroll along Fisher boasts an enviable for the last few seasons, and as business pioneer. In addition to Seventh Avenue. His testimony was put off Thursday. Kasman, relationship with retail part- an illustration of the company’s helping bring Girls Inc., a pro- the self-proclaimed “adopted son” of the late John Gotti, was to ners such as Saks Fifth Avenue, support of its employees’ inter- gram design to empower girls, testify on his ties to the Gambino crime family at a hearing to de- whose top executives — includ- ests, the fi rm posts the footage to Westchester, Fisher is well termine if attorney Joseph Corozzo should be disqualified from ing president and chief mer- on the Web site. This season, known for the socially conscious representing his father, Joseph “Miserable” Corozzo, a reputed chandising offi cer Ron Frasch, the footage so impressed Fisher way she runs her business. Gambino mobster. The elder Corozzo is among 62 defendants senior fashion director Michael that she decided to take it to the The company supports fe- named in an 80-count indictment unsealed last month. Judge Fink and senior vice president next level: television. male artisans in Peru who make Jack Weinstein ruled that the younger Corozzo could not partici- and general merchandise man- “The commercial is symbolic certifi ed organic cotton sweat- pate in the case until after Kasman testifies. ager Joe Boitano — participated of the way we do things and how ers, gives grants to female en- with Eileen Fisher executives things happen in the company,” trepreneurs and nonprofi ts that ● FORMER SEARS CEO’S PAY: Aylwin B. Lewis, former chief on Wednesday in a “deep dive,” she said. “We were just doing help elevate the self-image of executive offi cer of Sears Holdings Corp., will continue to which is the creative process our regular ad campaign, and women and girls and shares receive his base salary of $1 million through March 24, 2010, Fisher employs to brainstorm one of the women at the photo profits with its employees, to the retailer said in a regulatory fi ling with the Securities and ideas with its executives and re- shoot decided she wanted to whom it also gives $1,000 credits Exchange Commission. The fi ling on Wednesday said Lewis tail partners. make a video of behind the every year to use for massages, will also continue to receive health care benefi ts, and became On the retail side, the com- scenes, and what she did was yoga classes and other alterna- vested in stock awards that allow him to buy 37,500 shares of pany is adding its 41st free- so inspiring to everyone — we tive methods to benefit their Sears stock at $88.62. Lewis was succeeded on Feb. 2 by W. standing store in Winter Park, loved the raw quality of the vid- well-being, plus another $1,000 Bruce Johnson. Johnson, the retailer’s executive vice presi- Fla., next week. It opened its eotape. Our clothes are so much for education. These are all el- dent for supply chain and operations, is currently interim ceo 40th store earlier this year about how they feel and move, ements Fisher credits for the and president. in Palm Beach Gardens in so it’s hard to see a static pic- company’s success. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 3 WWD.COM Something New: Pronovias’ U.S. Flagship By Sharon Edelson Jeddah and Damman, Saudi Arabia; Qatar; Mecca, and Europe because it’s the most competitive market in the Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Seventy stores are world,” Palatchi said. “To be successful in New York is ronovias hopes to have a long and happy love affair planned for 2009. the real McCoy.” Pwith Manhattan. “Basically, we’ve been growing at a double-digit rate Pronovias traditionally shows its collections in The world’s largest bridal manufacturer has made a for the last 40 years,” Palatchi said. “We have 5 percent Barcelona at lavish runway shows for 3,000 guests. On major commitment to the city by opening a fi ve-story, of the world market share. We feel that the market will May 8, the presentation will be at the New York fl ag- 21,000-square-foot fl agship at 14 East 52nd Street, just double in volume in the next 10 years due to the explo- ship. “It’s going to be like the old haute couture pre- off Madison Avenue, last week. It’s the company’s fi rst sion of the middle class in newly developed countries. sentations, which were done at the fashion house,” unit in the U.S., and Alberto Palatchi, president of the We see ourselves doubling our world market share in Palatchi said. Barcelona-based Pronovias, said the fl agship is ex- the next fi ve years.” pected to do $20 million to $25 million in sales in two In Spain, Pronovias owns 50 percent of the market One-off gowns to three years. and in Italy it has a 12 percent share. The company’s by Manuel Mota. With a minimalist design and rich materials, the fl ag- share for other European markets is about 10 percent, ship exudes calm at a time that can be alternately nerve- while in the U.S., it’s 3 percent “through our whole- racking, exciting and exhausting for brides. Pronovias sale operation,” Palatchi said. “We have a long way to operates like the designer salons of the Forties and go in America.” Fifties. Prospective brides are whisked to private areas The business has taken careful, measured steps to- of the store where they’re lavished with attention. ward growth. “We are very much a typical family busi- “Each fl oor is like an individual boutique,” said ness,” Palatchi said. “We believe in organic growth and Sarah Burton, retail director. Sales associates at we fi nance our companies with our own assets. We’re Pronovias are called “stylists” and trained to guide con- private and continue to be private. We don’t borrow sumers through the more than 150 styles the company money from banks and we reinvest in commercial real offers. “Our stylists have to have empathy, compassion estate and our stores and fl agships.” and warmth,” Burton said. With consolidated Vases packed with vo- profi t before tax of $72.5 luptuous roses are placed Sarah Burton helps a million in 2007 and net throughout, chiaroscuro bride with her train. assets valued at $358 mil- lighting casts brides in the lion, Pronovias is well- most attractive light and positioned to expand. The 25 oversize dressing rooms company invested over have banquette seating $35 million to purchase for family and friends. A and remodel the East cream-colored silk robe 52nd Street property and hangs at the ready in each spent $60 million (at cur- room. Alterations are done rent exchange) in 2006 to on site by nine seamstress- purchase its New Bond es who work on the lower Street fl agship in London. ground fl oor. While Palatchi char- Unlike other brid- acterized Pronovias as al emporiums such as the “challenger” in New Kleinfeld, which carries York, he said that in over 50 brands, Pronovias terms of sales, the com- sells only a handful of pany is “miles ahead of collections: it’s own competitors. In terms of Pronovias line, Manuel economies of scale, effi - Mota, Pronovias Vintage ciency, innovation, fi nan- and Pronovias Fiesta, and licensed collections Elie cial muscle and distribution, we are the only global by Elie Saab and Valentino Sposa. player. Our major competitors are mainly local. We Pronovias gowns are priced from $1,800 to $3,000; have an advantage.” PHOTOS BY PASHA ANTONOV PASHA PHOTOS BY Manuel Mota dresses, $3,000 to $6,000, and Elie Saab Prior to opening the East 52nd Street fl agship, and Valentino Sposa go up to $12,000. Pronovias closed its wholesale accounts in Manhattan. A peaceful corner on the main fl oor offers some respite. The company is working with Swarovski to create “We didn’t have any relevant customers in Manhattan,” limited edition bridal dresses priced from $25,000 to Palatchi said. “We had accounts with big stores with $100,000. “They will very possibly be the most expensive very low business. After making the sort of investment bridal dresses in the world,” said Palatchi. “We have to that we made, it would have been nonsense to con- have exceptional things. We have to have things you can- tinue those accounts. We did business with Bergdorf not fi nd anywhere else.” Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. We used to sell to Pronovias, which began as a small family business Kleinfeld. We decided our brand would be better with in Barcelona in 1922, has grown into a global force with our full offering.” worldwide sales of $271 million in 2007. The company Pronovias doesn’t plan to open additional stores in has expanded geographically, moving from Spain in the the U.S., Palatchi said, noting, “We have a very success- Seventies to other European locations in the Eighties ful wholesale operation in America with 900 customers and North America in the Nineties. Pronovias had a for our different brands.” With 3,800 accounts world- presence in 75 countries by 2000, and is still moving into wide, the company is represented in many corners of new territories. the world. Pronovias became the exclusive bridal re- Pronovias will open 40 stores this year in places source at Harrods in 2007. such as Bogota, Colombia; Cairo; Riyadh, Mecca, “We chose New York as world fl agship instead of Wet Seal Turns Profi t, Ashlee Simpson Line on Tap Patricia Malone Heads to Coach By Jeanine Poggi tion for the line,” said chief executive offi cer NEW YORK — Coach Inc., the $2.9 billion accessories brand, has Ed Thomas. “The goal was to deliver afford- tapped Christian Dior’s former U.S. president, Patricia Malone, et Seal Inc. reported a fourth-quarter able fashion, and Ashlee is an ideal partner to be senior vice president of merchandising. Wprofit Thursday and said it will roll out a for this.” Malone will start in her newly created position on Monday, new line of tops designed by Ashlee Simpson on For the three months ended Feb. 2, earn- reporting to Jody Kuss, executive vice president of worldwide April 22 to coincide with the launch of the pop ings reached $12.2 million, or 13 cents a di- merchandising. star’s third CD, “Bittersweet World.” luted share, compared with a loss of $5.7 mil- Before being named U.S. president and chief operating offi - The CD will be sold in Wet Seal stores. lion, or 7 cents, in the year-ago period partly cer at Christian Dior in 2006, Malone was president and chief ex- The teen specialty chain said it swung to a caused by a large interest expense. Sales grew ecutive offi cer of Gucci America from 1997 to 2005, directing the profi t in the quarter after a year-ago loss, but 7.9 percent to $179.6 million from $166.4 mil- wholesale and retail businesses in North and South America. forecast fi rst-quarter earnings below analysts’ lion, and total same-store sales dropped 1.4 She began working at Gucci in 1985, and then was merchandise estimates. percent. By division, same-store sales at Wet manager at Fendi USA before returning to Gucci in 1994. Wet Seal said, based on current market Seal rose 2.1 percent and sank 12.5 percent Kuss said Malone brings a “unique aesthetic and personal conditions, fi rst-quarter earnings should be at Arden B. style to Coach” and will be a strong asset “as we strengthen our in the range of 4 cents to 6 cents a diluted For the full year, the company posted a profi t capability to bring more sophisticated and elevated product to share. Wall Street analysts were expecting of $23.2 million, or 23 cents a diluted share, ver- the marketplace.” 8 cents. sus a loss of $12.8 million, or 18 cents, last year. Malone said she was looking forward to helping build on a The Simpson collection will feature designs Sales rose 8.3 percent to $611.2 million from strong foundation at Coach. that refl ect her sense of style and personality. $564.3 million. “The key to Coach’s success lies in its proposition of innova- The tops will be priced in line with Wet Seal Management said Arden B is still in the tion and relevance,” she said. “Today, the company is accelerat- merchandise. early stages of a turnaround and expects to ing at the pace of innovation, delivering an increased level of “Ashlee is a role model for our girl and have an improved inventory mix in stores by distinctive newness to their consumers.” her fun and fl irty sense of style is an inspira- the end of April. — Sophia Chabbott 4 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 The Beauty Report WWD.COM Yurman Enters Beauty With Women’s Scent avid and Sybil Yurman are aiming to juice up their As well, a 6.7-oz. body cream will be offered for $80. Djewelry business with their fi rst foray into the fra- On the question of pricy positioning, David Yurman grance market. seemed unfazed. He said, “$120? That’s a good tip in a The Yurmans, who founded their eponymous com- restaurant for four people.” pany in 1980, said the fragrance business offers an The bottle, designed with Yurman creative director opportunity to extend David Yurman’s design prin- David Lipman, is made up of a gold-toned, plastic-lined ciples to a genre beyond jewelry. They have founded inner piece encased in a customized pressed Italian David Yurman Perfumery with Clarins Group, with ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY crystal shell. The sculpted gold cap is intended to evoke a fi rst offering, a women’s fragrance, slated for an Yurman’s iconic Cable Collection of jewelry, while the August launch. neck of the bottle is a replica of David Yurman’s wed- “It’s a way to touch more of the senses,” said ding band. “We were going for the idea of encapsulating David Yurman, chief designer and chairman of David the fragrance in a gemstone,” said Sybil Yurman. “It was Yurman, of his new business. “A good fragrance is like very hard to do, but very important to us.” a wine — it lingers, and it can take your breath away. While the scent’s upscale specialty store distribu- We’re moving into unknown ground, but we know what tion is still being fi nalized, it is likely to mirror that we like to explore.” of Yurman’s jewelry collections, which are sold in And perfume isn’t just something to round out the stores like Neiman Marcus. In total, the scent will be Yurman business portfolio, emphasizes Sybil Yurman, available in fewer than 300 U.S. doors at launch, said the watch and jewelry fi rm’s president and chief mar- Jonathan Zrihen, president and ceo of Clarins Group keting offi cer. “David has always traveled with scented USA. It will likely go into Canada and the Caribbean candles — even on trail rides,” she said. He interjected, later this fall, he added. “A scented candle in a lean-to is quite wonderful.” “As the David Yurman business grows, so will our Sybil Yurman continued, “Scent has always been fragrance distribution,” said Paul Blum, ceo of David important to him. Jewelry and scents are both about Yurman. “This collaboration is laying a base for fu- design. With jewelry, you create art with the col- ture scents.” Yurman’s company has just opened a ors of the gemstones. With fragrance, you do it with Hong Kong offi ce and is in the process of fi nalizing the notes.” its Asian distribution plan. A lease has been signed “This fragrance represents itself very well in the with the Four Seasons in Macau, with a July open- world of David Yurman,” said Christian Courtin- ing planned, and Tokyo is also on the books. By year- Clarins, chairman and chief executive officer of end, the Yurman brand is also slated to be sold in Groupe Clarins Worldwide. And it does in the Clarins Europe and Russia; expansion into the Middle East world as well, he said. “We are always looking for a is planned for 2009. real story; we do not want to sell a ‘me-too’ fragrance. In keeping with the Yurman brand’s luxury posi- David and Sybil have a vision of modernity that ap- tioning, upscale sampling vehicles are on tap for the peals not only to an American audience, but to an in- launch, said Brad Horowitz, senior vice president of ternational one as well. It is always the creative people marketing for the Clarins Fragrance Group. They in- that push you to do something different.” clude black cord and silver bracelets infused with the The fl oral chypre, by Firmenich’s Harry Fremont, scent, as well as miniature pump sprays and mini jars opens with vibrant mandarin, fresh green petals and David Yurman, Sybil Yurman and Christian Courtin-Clarins. of the body cream. “We want consumers to discover the cassis, built around a core of peony, water lily, natural luxury of the Yurman brand at counter,” said Horowitz. rose otto, patchouli, exotic woods and soft musk. “There is a femininity to it, but it’s While none of the executives would discuss sales projections, industry sources a lot like people describe our jewelry to be — masculine and feminine,” said Sybil predicted that the scent could do $12 million to $15 million at retail in its fi rst year Yurman. In fact, the fragrance’s structure was inspired by one of Yurman’s jewelry on counter in the U.S. and Canada. As much as $5 million could be spent on advertis- designs, a bouquet of stones, she said. “With that piece, you don’t really see one indi- ing and promotion, industry sources said. vidual color, you see an essence of color with the mix. This fragrance is similar — it National advertising, shot by Peter Lindbergh, will feature model Amber Valletta, isn’t about a top note, middle note. It’s about a bouquet that you smell at the same who has also been featured in Yurman jewelry advertising. The campaign will begin time. We didn’t want the fragrance to be defi ned by any one note.” running in October fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. Eaux de parfum sprays will be sold in two sizes: 1.7 oz. for $120 and 2.5 oz. for $165. — Julie Naughton Shoppers Drug Mart Plans New Concept Stores hoppers Drug Mart said Thursday skin care and treatment products,” Alès to Ax Phytoderm Sthat it has a new beauty concept said Rozenwald. “We’re really look- — and a new divisional president. ing to cross beauty and pharmacy as PARIS — Alès Groupe plans to shutter The Canadian retailer has tapped you would fi nd it in Europe — for in- its loss-making Phytoderm treatment Lorenza Shelley Rozenwald, formerly senior stance, pharmacists will be on full- brand worldwide later this year, the Battigello vice president of cosmetics, skin time duty in these stores. As well, company announced this week. care, fragrance and beauty services we are looking at doing a brow bar, The Paris-based fi rm cited failure to for upscale retailer Holt Renfrew, as injectables, nutraceuticals, facials achieve profi tability targets as the reason president of its yet-to-be-named new and other treatments. We will also for the closure. concept store. bring in a range of brands that you The news came as Alès reported 2007 The upscale format will feature won’t see everywhere in Canada. profi ts down 21.6 percent year-on-year a wide range of prestige cosmet- It’s about taking beauty to a more to 6.7 million euros, or $9.18 million at ics, fragrances, skin care items and sophisticated level.” average exchange for the period. dermatological lines, in addition The fi rst beauty store with the That downturn was mainly a result of to a full-service pharmacy, said new format is expected to open in increased promotional spend, particular- Rozenwald, who begins her new job Ontario in July and is expected to ly in the fi rst half, the group stated. Alès April 7. feature about 5,000 square feet of devoted 37 percent of its 2007 turnover of This new concept is an exten- selling space, slightly smaller than a 168.3 million euros, or $230.7 million, to sion of Shoppers Drug Mart’s traditional Shoppers Drug Mart lo- marketing, notably to support the launch Beauty Boutique format, fi rst intro- cation. Eventually, Rozenwald hopes of Lierac skin care in the U.S., where the duced in 2003 to increase the com- to launch several hundred of these brand is sold in 200 drugstores, and to re- pany’s share in the prestige beauty new stores in Shoppers Drug Mart invigorate stagnating sales of Phyto hair market. Beauty Boutiques, adjacent stores throughout Canada. care in France. Full-year sales progressed new subsidiaries are scheduled to open to Shoppers Drug Mart stores, are In addition to its new concept by the end of 2009, according to a com- staffed by sales associates trained stores, Shoppers Drug Mart will roll pany spokesman. The fi rst, Alès Groupe in all of the brands. The boutiques out 40 additional Beauty Boutique Alès reported 2007 Portugal, will open in May this year. are now in more than 140 Shoppers units this year, noted Rozenwald. Alès aims to repeat the success Drug Mart and Pharmaprix (as the “Evolving our beauty offering profi ts down 21.6 Battigello achieved as manager of Alès’ chain is known in Québec) loca- is a key component of our growth Italian subsidiary for 11 years. Alès tions across Canada. In total, the strategy,” stated Jürgen Schreiber, percent year-on-year Groupe Italia is the fi rm’s largest sub- chain operates about 1,080 loca- president and chief executive offi - sidiary, generating 37.6 million euros, tions in Canada. cer of Shoppers Drug Mart. “This to 6.7 million euros, or or $51.5 million in 2007. While both the Beauty Boutique new concept will allow us to offer Now non-executive president Patrick stores and the new concept stores customers a unique and upscale $9.18 million at average Alès will focus on research and develop- carry cosmetics, fragrances and beauty experience. At the same ment, in particular pursuing opportunities skin care items, the difference in time, it provides us with a plat- exchange for the period. for patents, the fi rm stated. Meanwhile, the two store formats comes in the form from which to launch new his son, Romain Alès, has been named product mix. and exciting prestige brands and by 4.4 percent year-on-year. president of Caron. He was previously “While the Beauty Boutique exclusive lines, as we continue to Under Lorenza Battigello, who re- deputy managing director of Alès Groupe. stores focus on prestige color cos- expand our presence in the mar- placed company founder Patrick Alès as Alès confi rmed its one Caron boutique in metics and fragrances, the new con- ketplace.” managing director in February, the fi rm the U.S. closed last year. cept stores will be very heavy on — J.N. plans to boost business in Europe. Three — Ellen Groves WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 5 WWD.COM WWD.COM Revving Up Mustang: Blue Scent to Launch ustang is driving back into the fragrance market with a Mnew car-themed men’s scent, Mustang Blue, in June. “We are aiming to expand the Mustang fragrance’s posi- tion as a lifestyle brand,” said Robin Mason, vice president of global marketing for the Mustang fragrance brand, which is produced by the Aramis and Designer Fragrances division of the Estée Lauder Cos. The fi rst Mustang scent launched in June 2007 in midtier department stores such as Sears. While the fi rst eponymous fragrance was what Mason de- scribes as “classic and masculine,” the new juice is “a touch sexier,” said Mason. “This brings the Mustang man into new territory.” The fragrance, a fresh fougère created by Trudi Loren, vice president of corporate fragrance development world- wide for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in cooperation with International Flavors & Fragrances, has top notes of berga- mot, lemon, mint and basil; a heart of lavender, geranium, Cosmoprof will run April 10 to 14 clary sage, clove leaf, cypress, pine, artemisia, cardamom in Bologna, Italy. and black pepper, and a drydown of cedar leaf, sandalwood, patchouli, hay and musk. The Blue lineup will include cologne sprays in three sizes — $20 for 1 oz., $25 for 1.7 oz. and $32 for 3.4 Cosmoprof Catering to Key Buyers Mustang Blue oz. — as well as $25 for By Stephanie Epiro with a capacity for U.S. distribution. All of them a 3.4-oz. aftershave. The seem focused on the Italian domestic market.” scents are packaged in MILAN — With new spaces, events and concepts After receiving a list of 40 to 50 product ven- blue tins that have been catered to retailers, Cosmoprof organizer Sogecos dors from Sogecos, Lucas acknowledged, “I’m color-matched to the is shaking up the formula for this year’s edition of quite excited about going, there seems to be a lot Mustang car model’s the beauty fair, which will open its doors April 10 more niche and specialty product ideas and ones “Vista Blue” paint, said to 14 in Bologna, Italy. I am interested in seeing.” Mason. The 41-year-old event will be guided for the fi rst Ed Burstell, senior vice president and gmm The fragrance will go time by chief executive offi cer Aureliana De Sanctis. of beauty, jewelry and accessories at Bergdorf into midtier department Sogecos, which is owned by Bologna Fiere — which Goodman, will also attend the show on the store doors, including also owns the fairgrounds where Cosmoprof is held hunt for new and niche brands. He praised the Sears, J.C. Penney and — named De Sanctis, who previously worked at Trendscouting program, and called it a “thorough- Kohl’s, in June. The L’Oréal and Gucci, its ceo in January 2007. ly modern approach” to the beauty business. balance of its distribu- She entered the fi rm at a watershed time for Beauty buyers from the U.K. hope to return tion, mass and drugstore Cosmoprof, following the departure of many big- to London from the Trendscouting program with doors, will get the collec- name beauty brands and their sprawling exhibi- something new. “It’s worth going, talking to the tion in July. In total, the tion booths. And, in order to fi ne-tune the fair’s other retailers, sharing information and seeing fragrance will be sold in structure, De Sanctis worked on new strategies what’s out there,” said Tracy Van Heusden, per- some 24,000 U.S. doors. and tactics for next month’s edition. fume and cosmetics buyer for Harvey Nichols. A print advertising Spearheading the changes is an initiative to at- A new section this year at Cosmoprof Bologna campaign — shot by tract key beauty buyers from leading internation- is called “In & Out — Perfumes & Pack & Co.,” George Logan and fea- al retailers like Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, and it is expected to be fertile ground for the turing a sultry blonde Galeries Lafayette and La Rinascente. Trendscouting program. It is set to be housed in snuggling up to a black leather-clad male model with a Dubbed “Trendscouting,” it aims to fast-track halls 16-18 and 19-20, areas that unite packaging Mustang as a backdrop — will begin running in September the fair’s offering by preselecting 30 to 40 new and the selective beauty offering under one roof. men’s, women’s and lifestyle magazines, including Maxim, products and beauty lines intended to target each It is set to run April 10 to 13. Glamour and Car & Driver, said Mason. Heavy sampling is buyer’s needs. Buyers were sent packets containing “We really believe in this unifi cation because information on the products and the brands earlier it makes the fair’s offer more coherent,” De this month. Additionally, Sogecos arranged a three- Sanctis said. day accommodation and fl ights package to Bologna “In & Out — Perfumes & Pack & Co.” will also This brings the Mustang man into for the show, as well as an extra night in Milan. host Masterpieces, Cosmoprof ’s niche perfume “new territory. “We want to shape the fair’s offer tailor-made and cosmetics hall that boasts 100 brands this edi- to them,” said De Sanctis. “This way, when they tion. To appease a waiting list of brands looking ” — Robin Mason, Mustang visit the show, they can be more effi cient and see to exhibit in Masterpieces, De Sanctis created an companies they haven’t spoken with before.” avenue of 15 extra booths fl anking the space. also expected, with about 10 million samples slated. A Web Sogecos signed on 18 retailers and 33 packag- Sogecos is also looking to create spin-off events site for the fragrance will include downloadable features ing buyers for the Trendscouting program. Many outside of the Goliath trade show with a new con- and other interactive elements, Mason added. buyers will visit Cosmoprof after not attending the cept called Cosmo Off — collaborating with some While Mason declined to discuss sales fi gures or advertis- show for several years, and viewed the trip as a of the city’s locales for wine tasting — and dishes ing spending, industry sources estimated that the Mustang chance to net a new, niche product. that purport antiaging qualities. Blue scent would do upward of $18 million at retail in its fi rst “My last trip to Cosmoprof was three years ago,” The new-look Cosmoprof will propel the beauty year on counter, and that about $7 million would be spent on said Claudia Lucas, senior vice president and gen- trade show to the top of its game, De Sanctis assert- advertising and promotion. eral merchandise manager at Henri Bendel. “As a ed. And what of those big-name beauty brands not in — Julie Naughton retailer, the challenge I had was fi nding products attendance? “They’ll be back,” De Sanctis declared.

Design & Manufacture Retail Shops & POP Display

www.sheridanandco.com New York and London 6 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 The Beauty Report

The entrance to PureBeauty in the Mall of America.

A look inside the new store. PHOTOS BY MICHAEL EHLEN PHOTOS BY Regis Unveils PureBeauty Concept By Andrea Nagel store, by the salon area, such as Nioxin and Pure Therapy, the chain’s own brand that sells for $89 for an at-home kit. n retail, nothing is set in stone, especially when a better opportunity comes In the salon area, which legitimizes the selling of professional products, are two Ialong. stylist stations. There also is a treatment room for skin and assorted spa services. The most recent example of changing one’s tune is Regis Corp.’s reworked strat- Several displays for home care are also at the back of the store, in well-lit dis- egy for Trade Secret, a 630-unit retail chain with a tired beauty mix consisting of pro- plays, and maintenance and feminine hygiene items, such as depilatories by Parissa fessional hair and nail products. In December, the $3 billion owner of retail stores and wipes by Sweet Spot, are here too. and salon chains announced it would be overhauling Trade Secret by adding cosmet- On the way back toward the front of the store, merchandise returns to hair care, ics, skin care and bath and body products, and organizing in-store events to drive with brands such as Paul Mitchell, Big Sexy Hair, Joico, Phyto, Simply Organic, Ojon consumer traffi c. At the time, several industry watchers doubted the new strategy and Wella in various displays. A smattering of fragrance items by YSL are presented was viable: Inventory was “slow to move” as it was, they said, without adding new by the checkout. items into the mix. They also cited how last year was the fi rst time the $253 million Dotting the selling fl oor are tables dedicated to certain product themes, such as division posted a sales decline — 4 percent — in more than 15 years. But in January, travel products, lip plumpers and brow items. just a month after announcing its big Trade Secret overhaul, the Minneapolis-based In order to help consumers navigate the store and all of its brands (and to build owner of Regis Salons, Jean Louis David and Beauty Express announced it bought a consumer database) PureBeauty offers Beauty Metrix, an area in the center of the the remaining 80 percent of rival beauty boutiques PureBeauty and BeautyFirst store where for $75 a staffed aesthetician provides a 15-minute skin hydration, elas- it didn’t already own, and would now change all Trade ticity and oiliness measurement, Secret stores to the PureBeauty banner, in concert with as well as hair density and cuticle store and product mix upgrades. Beauty Express loca- damage analysis. In return, the tions would soon also become BeautyFirst stores. In a Metrix spits out a prescription of nutshell, Regis would be launching an entirely new chain products carried by the store. in a highly competitive market led by Bath & Body Works, All of these new additions Ulta and Sephora. look to swell the average ticket Despite being up against innovative and creative to $37, up from $26. Sales per beauty retail experts, the PureBeauty prototype that square foot are estimated to grow celebrated its grand opening earlier in the month in to $750, up from $400 to $430. Minneapolis’ Mall of America, looks as if could go head- Indeed, PureBeauty is a de- to-head with some of the majors, if not entirely due parture for Regis. And for those to its vast brand and product mix, which ranges from who want to compare the two, Tweezerman tweezers to Jessica Simpson’s HairDo to an existing Trade Secret in the Frédéric Fekkai shampoo to YSL cosmetics. Mall of America continues to ▼ The new 1,900-square-foot space is situated on the fi rst Regis’ Paul operate about a 7-minute walk fl oor of the mall, right next to Nordstrom. It is packed Finkelstein and David from PureBeauty. After a perusal with brands, about 75 of them, and is already holding Craggs of L’Oréal. of this store, it is apparent why events hosted by regional reps and makeup artists, such Knudsen and Regis chief ex- as the Jane Iredale makeover party that took place dur- ecutive offi cer Paul Finkelstein ing this reporter’s store tour on Wednesday. A display would decide to get rid of the Upon entering PureBeauty, shoppers are presented of hair care banner over the next several with an array of cosmetics and skin care offerings, products inside years. About 200 stores in the with 12-foot wall displays broken up into 2- and PureBeauty. company’s 2009 fi scal year, which 3-foot sections stocking items from Dermalogica, begins July 1, 2008, are planned Murad, Freeze 24/7, H2O+, Zeno and Go Smile. for the PureBeauty makeover. At the front of the store is also where Knudsen continued, “It seemed a better, more logical choice to change PureBeauty presents brands that offer instant ca- over all the Trade Secret stores to the PureBeauty banner. It would have chet — Jane Iredale and YSL — which may entice been confusing for the customer [otherwise]. Launching this mix under consumers who have not heard of the store before. Trade Secret would not have had the same impact.” PureBeauty and BeautyFirst consists of 63 company- The need to add these products was essential, too, she said. owned locations and 51 franchise units in 20 states. “This is a superloyal customer and by us not offering these products we are Together, PureBeauty and BeautyFirst’s annual rev- sending her to our competition.” enues are $65 million, and including sales of franchises The Mall of America Trade Secret will be part of a test group of stores that will are $110 million. be changed to the PureBeauty format. It is not uncommon to have two locations in “We are seeing immediate success with both brands,” said the mall, due to its size. Several retailers operate two stores there, including Bath & Norma Knudsen, chief operating offi cer for Trade Secret. “Jane Body Works. Iredale is the answer to mineral. The company is very particular about the retailers That the name PureBeauty actually explains the purpose of the store is what most who carry it so we feel very privileged.” appeals to Finkelstein. When Regis bought beauty chain Beauty Express in 1992 and A 4-foot YSL lighted display emphasizes the brand’s premium positioning, one Trade Secret in 1994, it was decided that the Trade Secret banner should be rolled that will likely cater to PureBeauty consumers, who on average earn around $125,000 out to all the stores since three-quarters of all Trade Secrets were franchised. per household. In explaining the quick turnaround from the original Trade Secret strategy in To make sure PureBeauty doesn’t abandon Trade Secret’s core hair and nail December to its most recent plan, Finkelstein admitted he “always knew that Pure care consumer, a full assortment of professional salon brands are offered, including Beauty was the right vehicle” and that he was going to “buy it anyway,” sooner or Frédéric Fekkai, René Furterer, Matrix, Biolage, Kenra, Brocato, BioSilk, Bedhead, later. “We are very acquisitive.” Graham Webb and OPI. As for when he expects PureBeauty to improve performance, Finkelstein pointed “We don’t want to lose our core Trade Secret consumer. We are the OPI destina- to an unknown time in fi scal 2009. tion and are known for that. We try to carry everything they have,” Knudsen said. “We are going to do it right. Some of the lines in the Mall of America now won’t be There’s also a section for hair tools, where a shopper can fi nd FHI, CHI and there in six months. We have the luxury of time. We are going to market it. I would Bespoke appliances. certainly expect that in fi scal 2009, in terms of comps,” to see an uptick, “but I can’t Hair care regimens for women with hair loss are available toward the back of the tell you which quarter.” WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 7

WWD.COM A New, Sleeker Perricone Emerges Breen Gets Personal at CEW Event By Molly Prior to skin-smoothing treatments (white). osmetic Executive Women kicked off its 2008 Series of speak- Each category — save for Targeted Care — Cer presentations Wednesday night at the Harmonie Club in NEW YORK — Nicholas Perricone may not push includes a starter kit designed to introduce Manhattan, an event that was highlighted by the personal insights cosmetic enhancement for his patients, but the customers to the line. Each also is fortifi ed with of Thia Breen, president of Estée Lauder Worldwide, who shared dermatologist’s skin care range has undergone accompanying supplements. For instance, Age her experiences of climbing the ranks to becoming one of the major surgery. Prevent includes a 30-day supply of Skin & Total beauty industry’s top executives. When the brand’s wares are unveiled next Body Dietary Supplements. Breen started working in retail in fi rst grade, arranging penny month at its Madison Avenue fl agship boutique The brand also has simplifi ed a handful of candies at her parents’ drugstore in Minnesota. By fi fth grade, she here, a more modern, sleek lineup will emerge, product names. For instance, Concentrated was promoted to her fi rst beauty gig as a Bonnie Bell buyer. replacing the signature brown-bottle, apoth- Restorative Cream is now Restorative Night But Breen said she felt that early on her career was poorly ecary look of the products. Along with the line’s Cream, and Nutrient Face Fortifi er became managed. One of her biggest disappointments was fi nding out that new streamlined appearance comes a stream- Nutrient Fortifi er. she was being let go at her fi rst job as a ready-to-wear buyer at lined name: PerriconeMD Cosmeceuticals will PerriconeMD is currently carried on QVC Dayton’s. However, getting laid off was one of the best things that replace N.V. Perricone M.D. Cosmeceuticals. and at more than 350 doors, including Neiman could have happened to her since it brought Breen into the beauty Lynda Berkowitz, the fi rm’s senior vice presi- Marcus, Nordstrom, Sephora and specialty business, a business she believed she was destined for. shops like Bluemercury. “I remember them telling me that there was one opening in Bluemercury’s founder and chief execu- cosmetics and I thought to myself there would be these packs of tive offi cer, Marla Malcolm Beck, credits the women together who were all putting on makeup behind the coun- revamp with streamlining the line to make ters together,” said Breen, who later became one of the fi rst na- it easier for consumers to understand what tional sales managers at Dayton’s. products are appropriate for them. Referring Breen, pointing to the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s succession plan to the brown bottles of yesterday, she said, that calls for Fabrizio Freda to become chief executive offi cer within “Perricone’s modern technology didn’t fi t with 24 months, said the fi rm is excited by the prospect. “He has a tremen- the old apothecary feel. The new, clean lines dous background coming from Procter & Gamble and a stint at Gucci, says ‘We’re advanced.’” so he really has an understanding of the luxury market,” she said. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE PHOTO BY She said Bluemercury anticipates a hefty Breen, who oversees 135 global markets, added that a big focus sales bump from the refresh, adding that when for the company now is exploring new global opportunities in the L’Oréal-owned Skinceuticals brand repack- emerging markets for the company like Russia, China and India, aged, the beauty boutique saw sales of the skin and developing ones like Australia and France. care line double. “We’re a domestic brand with tremendous market share and we’re Betsy Olum, senior vice president at moving to be more of a global brand,” said Breen. “Our home busi- Sephora, nodded to PerriconeMD’s newly es- ness is steeped in department and specialty store doors so we have to A trio of revamped tablished color-coded categories and its move make a shift in terms of emerging and developing markets, since we PerriconeMD products. to place clinicals touting the products’ effi cacy have to be regionally relevant around the world. We’re trying to think on the outer carton. more globally and this requires a whole different structure.” “In a retail environment such as ours where — Michelle Edgar a ‘help, not hassle’ approach is utilized by our dent of sales, said the redesign is geared toward sales staff and where clients are encouraged to Carlotta Jacobson, making the line, which has a technical position- explore and experience products, it is impor- Thia Breen and ing, easier to shop. tant that the consumer understands what they Jill Scalamandre. “We noticed a change in consumers’ shop- are purchasing and why they need it from the ping patterns,” said Berkowitz. “It used to be onset. The Perricone repack most defi nitely that she relied on the recommendation of her achieves this,” said Olum. dermatologist or aesthetician. Now she has the PerriconeMD is slated to hit stores in May. confi dence to make her own decision.” Earlier this year, the company introduced To encourage that process, the revamped line Ceramic Eye Smoother, and several more — two years in the making, said Berkowitz — launches are on deck for 2008, namely a skin- groups PerriconeMD’s 58 technology-laden prod- brightening product slated to launch this fall ucts into fi ve color-coded categories: Science, and a handheld device called Light Renewal, Age Prevent for youthful skin (green); Science, due out this July. A trio of new products last Age Correct for fi ne lines (brown); Science, Age year, and the brand’s fi rst ad campaign, fueled Less to plump deep lines and sagging skin (plati- the company’s 2007 wholesales sales up 20 per- num); Science, Skin Clear to treatment and pre- cent to $75 million, according to industry sourc- vention of acne (blue), and Science, Targeted es. They estimated the revamp will boost sales Care for specifi c needs, ranging from sunscreen by 20 to 25 percent this year.

SALES PHILOSOPHY: Philosophy Inc. has named manager of the Americas for Clinique. He will join the company July 1 and will be responsible Eileen Barker senior vice president of sales for all North and South America sales and profi ts as well as North American marketing and education, effective April 14. Barker was and sales administration. “The role is key to Clinique’s continued growth in both of these most recently senior vice president of sales signifi cant geographical regions. Ricardo brings his diverse experience, strategic ability and SNIPPETS and marketing for Fresh Cosmetics, owned by worldwide learnings to this position,” stated Lynne Greene, global president of Clinique, to LVMH Moët Hen nessy Louis Vuitton. She has whom Quintero will report. also held several related roles at the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., including posts at Bobbi Brown. Quintero has been senior vice president and general manager of Clinique International, Philosophy chief executive offi cer E. Michael McNamara said of the appointment, “We saw responsible for sales and profi ts for the Clinique business outside of North America. “During a need to add capabilities at the senior level.…Everything about Barker’s this time, the brand has enjoyed strong growth and development, including the personality, energy and drive will lead the organization’s growth.” Barker, opening of new markets like India and expansion into Brazil,” stated Greene. referring to Philosophy’s brand potential, said: “It has a positioning as a Before joining Clinique’s international team, Quintero was general manager of lifestyle brand. It captures peoples’ emotions.” the Estée Lauder Cos. in Korea.

SHISEIDO PLANT: Japanese cosmetics giant Shiseido is to invest $38 FABRE MOVE: Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique has named Hubert Bevelsborg million to build a production facility in Vietnam, the fi rm announced president and chief executive offi cer of its U.S. operations. Bevelsborg’s new Tuesday. Next month, it will establish a manufacturing subsidiary called duties include running the Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique USA business in Shiseido Vietnam Inc., which will begin work on the site in December. The Parsippany, N.J., and overseeing the France-based fi rm’s medicine, skin care factory, which will supply mainly mid- and low-priced treatment products and hair care brands, including René Furterer, Klorane, Glytone, Avene and for countries in the Association of South Eastern Nations, or ASEAN A-Derma. Bevelsborg, who joined L’Oréal in 1987 — then went to the Estée region, will be operational by December 2009, Shiseido stated. Shiseido’s Lauder Cos. in 1994 — has been managing director of Fabre’s operations overseas business is expected to surpass 36 percent of the company’s net in Germany, Switzerland and Austria since 2001. Sales of that business sales for the fi scal year ended March 31, compared with 32.4 percent quadrupled, and profi ts increased, during Bevelsborg’s tenure as managing in the prior fi scal year. Shiseido said China will continue to be its core director, the fi rm stated. Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmétique has more than 90 focus. The company expanded its Shanghai factory last year to increase global affi liates and annual revenues of about $3 billion. production capacity in the country. JUICY PAIRING: Christopher Kane has designs on lips. The British designer LIFE AQUATIC: Utilizing Procter & Gamble’s Aquacurrent Science, the has teamed up with L’Oréal-owned Lancôme to create a collection of Juicy new Pantene Pro-V Beautiful Lengths Shampoo and Conditioner system Pantene’s Tubes lip glosses. The limited edition collection, dubbed Juicy Tubes World incorporates technology designed to regulate the fl ow of water in and out of the Pro-V Beautiful Tour by Christopher Kane, is made up of glosses inspired by New York, Tokyo, Paris hair fi ber and is said to make hair 10 times stronger against damage. A portion of Lengths items. and Rio de Janeiro. “Fashion makes you travel and I’ve been lucky enough to visit the proceeds from every Pantene Pro-V Beautiful Lengths purchase will support many interesting places that each have unique visions of individuality and beauty,” Pantene Beautiful Lengths, a charity that creates free wigs for women undergoing cancer stated Kane. In the U.K., eight glosses will be available, including Cinnamon Soho, Tokyo treatment. Cover Girl also offers products inspired by Aquacurrent Science to help with Uzu, Moulin Rose and Banana Ipanema. The collection, which features dress designs by moisture, while covering imperfections and evening out skin tone. The technology also is Kane on its packaging, bowed in the U.S. this month and will roll out internationally in incorporated in Oil of Olay and Secret products. April. Each Juicy Tube is priced at 13.50 pounds, or $27.08 at current exchange, in the U.K. This isn’t Kane’s fi rst linkup with Lancôme. The designer has won the Lancôme Colour NEW AT CLINIQUE: Ricardo Quintero has been appointed senior vice president, general Designs Awards twice. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008

The HBA Report WWD.COM TV Retail Darling Tova Fetes 25 Years NEW YORK — There’s a reason Tova Borgnine is often called was mail order and I saw that evolve into a form of distribution,” the first lady of beauty at QVC and why she’s moved more than she recalled. Signature was born from bath oil that she had found 10 million bottles of her fragrance worldwide without most cus- in San Francisco and then traced to Steve Manheimer. She went to tomers even smelling it. New York, found his fi rm and said she wanted to develop it into a “Tova? Darling, I love Tova’s Signature,” screamed a re- fragrance. The mixture of jasmine, lavender, citrus and bergamot porter’s friend upon learning of an interview with Borgnine, with sandalwood was a stark contrast to the potent scents of the who is in the midst of celebrating day such as Poison, but she quickly found the 25th year of Signature. “I’ve an audience for those who liked the clean never had anyone ask me what Tova formula. In an interesting twist, the notes perfume I was wearing until I used Borgnine of Signature are in vogue again today. At Signature....It was just like the sto- and her that time, Borgnine was becoming known ries she tells on QVC,” the exuber- Signature for skin care products, which remain in ant friend related. scent her lineup today. Borgnine’s talent for describ- (left). She was approached fi rst by CVN to ing her scents over the tube helped sell her skin care, but thought that net- build Signature into one of the best- work was too focused on jewelry. When selling fragrances on QVC. This year QVC bought CVN, Borgnine contacted the marks her 17th year on the network fi rm and managed to snare a 15-minute and it is being celebrated with year- long promotions, including one that sold more than 31,000 units in one day from three one-hour appear- ances, according to QVC. “Tova has been an amazing ex- perience,” said Allen Burke, QVC’s director of beauty merchandising. “She is one of the great ladies of the meeting with then buyer Darlene Daggett industry and has built an amazing that led to her debut for skin items just business. When I meet people and before Christmas in 1990. Daggett went tell them what I do they ask me, ‘Do on to become president of the network. you know Tova?’” he said. Burke Borgnine was such a success that con- believes it is her passion for her sumers asked for fragrances to be added. products that transcends the air- She tested scents on-air in 1991 and ped- waves and has amassed such a cult dled $134,000 worth during her fi rst show. following that there are customers Although TV shoppers couldn’t smell the on auto-replenishment to receive scent, they had the security of being able Signature every 60 or 90 days so they never run out. After to return it at no risk for 30 days. all, before Philosophy and prior to Leslie Blodgett at Bare Other Borgnine milestones include a QVC record for Today’s Escentuals, Borgnine proved the power of direct selling. Special Value by selling 66,000 pieces of a set in 20 minutes, adding Borgnine never wavered in her belief she could sell her the United Kingdom and Germany to her reach and recently nomi- juice over the airwaves. “You have to think before QVC there nation to the FiFi Hall of Fame. “Do we deserve it,” she asked rhetorically of the FiFi nomination. “Yes,” said Borgnine quickly. “But not just for me but for Manheimer, QVC and all involved.” Borgnine’s scents have been nominated for FiFi’s in the past, but this is the fi rst to the coveted Hall of Fame. What makes Borgnine’s success even more impressive is the staying power of the Signature scent and extensions at a time when entry fees are high and success rates low. While not discrediting the celebrity phenomenon, Borgnine said the products lose credibility and ultimately collapse. The formula has stayed the same, she said of her fragrance, with less than a 20 percent jump in price over the past 17 years. In June, Borgnine will introduce a new Signature — this time Signature Summer. It adds to other offerings such as Tova Nights (the naughty Tova, she quipped), Mind & Spirit, Tova for Men, Body and Tova Love Everlasting. “We’re very excit- ed about Summer,” said Burke. “Every time we launch a new scent, we feel we get new users to Tova.” Borgnine describes Summer as a California grape- fruit with a twist. “She’s a pioneer…nobody would have thought upscale fra- grance could sell on TV and I’m sure loads of people told her she was not thinking clearly. But she turned out to be the smart one and she connects with a loyal following,” Burke concluded. ● ● ● As reported last year, Walgreens ended its exclu- sive retail relationship with IsaDora cosmetics. Now, the Swedish-born brand has a new pipeline in America via An IsaDora cosmetics display. CosmeticMall.com. IsaDora performed well at Walgreens, but industry sources said the retailer decided to eliminate it from 2008 planograms as it was time-consuming to manage. As its U.S. retail partner, Walgreens helped the company devise min- eral makeup products for IsaDora, which weren’t yet available in Europe. “We are very excited about our new relationship with CosmeticMall.com, and that they will be adding IsaDora to their lineup of premium brands,” said IsaDora’s creative director Ingrid-Marie Johansson. “CosmeticMall.com is the ideal partner for us because it is extremely committed to educating its consum- ers and to offering them the best possible products to meet their individual needs.” Established in 1996, CosmeticMall.com became the fi rst multi- brand beauty and personal care retailer on the Internet and offers over 50,000 top makeup, fragrance, skin care and hair products, as well as tools and gifts for women, men, teens and babies. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 9 WWD.COM

Love birds: French President Nicholas Sarkozy snuggles Carla Conquers up to his wife in Greenwich.

Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, in a Bruni- Dior gown, arrives at Sarkozy, Guildhall for a white-tie again in Dior, dinner with the Lord at Carlton Mayor of London.

PHOTOS BY DANIEL BEREHULAK/GETTYPHOTOS BY IMAGES, TIM ROOKE/REX USA, TIM GRAHAM/GETTY IMAGES AND STEPHEN HIRD/AP PHOTO Gardens. The Sarkozys at the Guildhall dinner.

By Samantha Conti “The speech was very endearing, and she delivered it in the most quiet, sexy, se- ductive voice,” said Wakeley, who met Bruni-Sarkozy as she made the rounds of the LONDON — Even the Brits love her now. tables with Brown. “When she talks, she makes you want to lean forward and listen Carla Bruni-Sarkozy’s fashion parade continued Thursday as she crisscrossed the — she did very well.” British capital for a charity lunch, a tour of Greenwich (including a quick smooch Lennox, dressed in a camel leather jacket and an A-line black skirt, called the from her amorous husband, French President Nicholas Sarkozy) and another white- lunch a “pleasant affair for a very interesting charity,” while Guinness called Carla tie dinner. And Dior was clearly the winning brand — even though the French fi rst “delightful.” lady ordered clothes from all of Paris’ couture houses, she wore only that label Guests, most of whom toted Chanel and Hermès Birkin bags, lunched in the gilded throughout the two-day jaunt — with a fi nale of a Dior bustier dress in Bordeaux dining room on beetroot and goat cheese salad with spring peas, sweet pea shoots and mousseline of silk. citrus dressing; roast fi llet of Cornish sea bass with salsa verde dressing, and apple But her style had the British press eating out of her hand. While cheesecake with cinnamon ice cream. they splashed racy pictures of her all over their pages on Wednesday, Bruni-Sarkozy wore the same gray and purple Dior outfi t throughout 24 hours later the papers were turning entente cordiale into double en- Dealing the day, and one lunch guest even overheard France’s fi rst lady lament- tendre. with nerves: ing — in a lighthearted tone, of course — that she didn’t even have time The praise bordered on the sycophantic, comparing Bruni-Sarkozy’s Bruni- for a manicure before her big speech. low-key elegance to that of Jackie Kennedy, Princess Diana and Audrey Sarkozy “Her hair wasn’t overblown or overdone — it looked like she’d done Hepburn. They even gushed about her nice-but-naughty aura. clenches it herself — and I’m saying that in the nicest way possible. There wasn’t “Miss Bruni looked as demure as a convent girl, and as ready to be her hand. a real preciousness about her,” said Wakeley. naughty if the spirit, or the Prince of Wales, moved her,” said The Daily After lunch, Bruni-Sarkozy and her husband zoomed off to Greenwich Telegraph. “She managed to make everyone else appear overdressed.” to visit the Old Royal Naval College, where Sarkozy presented award- The Daily Mail didn’t hold back: “The ghosts of Henry VIII and other winning, British yachtswoman Dame Ellen MacArthur with the Legion old royal rogues must have been wolf-whistling from the rafters….You d’Honneur. can take the girl out of the studio, and put her in the Elysée Palace. But On Thursday evening, the couple attended their fi nal engagement — a you can’t take the supermodel out of the girl.” white-tie dinner at the Guildhall, the seat of the City of London govern- At a ladies’ lunch on Thursday, Bruni-Sarkozy — dressed in a gray ment — hosted by the Lord Mayor and Corporation of London. cashmere jacket with silver belt, green wool and cashmere trousers and Guests included Cartier’s Arnaud Bamberger and his wife, Carla; a purple jersey coat, all by Dior — gave her fi rst public speech since her Hadid; Lionel Barber, editor of the Financial Times; Sir Ian Blair, head husband took offi ce. of the Metropolitan Police, and Chanel’s Olivier Nicolay. The senior roy- The lunch was hosted by the Prime Minister Gordon Brown’s wife, als on hand were the Duke and Duchess of Gloucester. Sarah, at Lancaster House, a 19th-century, neoclassical mansion not far In stark contrast to last night’s menu — which had a French fl air — from St. James’s Palace. Bruni-Sarkozy spoke on behalf of The White Ribbon Alliance, Thursday’s was decidedly British with honey-roasted quail, timbale of scallop and a charity that aims to reduce the number of mother’s deaths during pregnancy and sea trout, tournedos of British beef and a trio of classic Anglo desserts, including childbirth. marmalade crème brûlée, poor knights of Windsor — that’s fried bread to you and “You, in the face of all this, you are the hope,” Bruni-Sarkozy told guests includ- me — and treacle tart. ing Annie Lennox, Lady Antonia Fraser, Sabrina Guinness, Lynn de Rothschild, Now Bruni-Sarkozy and her husband head back to Paris where the fi rst lady and Julia Peyton-Jones, Ruth Rogers, Miriam Stoppard, Tessa Jowell, Zaha Hadid, Kelly her beleaguered husband are unlikely to get the same kind of rapturous reception. Hoppen, Tana Ramsay and Amanda Wakeley. — With contributions from Laura Mitchell and Benjamin Canares 10 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 WWD.COM Li & Fung Looks to Double Sales by 2010 Continued from page one buying offi ce or should I out- [place] else has the capacity.” wear, but it was small. We’re not the U.S., Europe and China. source?’ We think we can pick To adapt to shifting manu- as strong as we can be in the Last year, core profi ts rose up more companies that decide facturing bases, Li & Fung has brown shoe business,” said Fung, 36 percent to $408.6 million, as to close their buying offi ces and 18 to 19 buying offi ces in China, who noted the company acquired sales advanced at the same rate turn to Li & Fung. In a down with more set to open around Peter Black International in the to $11.85 billion. market, there’s a lot of oppor- the country. U.K. to increase its presence in The Hong Kong-based Li & tunity for us. Americans have “People who say they have footwear and beauty, especially Fung, which sources apparel, ac- a saying, ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t a buying office in Shenzhen in Europe. cessories and footwear through- fi x it,’ well… there’s something aren’t sourcing China, they are Last year, Li & Fung also ac- out Asia and elsewhere and has broken out there.” sourcing Hong Kong,” said Fung quired CGroup, a Hong Kong- 80 offi ces in more than 40 coun- Fung said the outlook for 2008 of the Chinese city across the based HBC supply chain manager, tries around the world, said is somewhat optimistic because river from Hong Kong, which is on the belief that the cosmetics profits attributable to share- the company already has orders a special administrative district industry didn’t anticipate the holders reached $391.7 million. in hand through the back-to- of China. Asian market for its products. school season. While China will retain “In the past, these products “We’re not putting our heads the bulk of Li & Fung’s sourc- were all made in the U.S. or in the sand and saying it doesn’t ing business, other countries Europe, where the customers matter what happens, but at the are seeing rapid increases in were,” Fung said. “Now, transpor- real economic level, sales are not growth. Vietnam grew 69 per- tation costs are high and the cus- as bad as we thought,” he said. cent, Turkey increased 59 per- tomers are in Asia, in China. We “We’re up from last year already.” cent and sourcing in Pakistan want to manufacture in China.” Fung also stressed that China was up 45 percent in 2007. In addition, in 2007, the will continue to play a vital role Fung attributes the success in group purchased Tommy in the company’s sourcing busi- Turkey to Li & Fung’s increased Hilfi ger’s global sourcing op- ness, despite increased costs and European business, which was erations, four Liz Claiborne diffi culties there. The country ac- up 26 percent last year, and said brands and numerous outsourc- counts for nearly half the fi rm’s Pakistan is thriving “despite the ing companies, including prop- manufacturing, but no longer turmoil.” Bangladesh, India and erty brand specialist Regatta, Li & Fung owns Regatta, which represents the fastest growth. South Africa all also posted in- Helly Hansen Outsourcing, makes the Metro 7 line, shown here. China is experiencing rapid creases of 35 percent or higher. Woolworth Germany infl ation and higher labor costs. “We are very sure that hav- pects the property brands busi- Outsourcing and American William Fung Its factories are increasingly ing a business model of a big ness, in which a retailer has ex- Marketing Enterprises. moving operations, primar- network of sourcing is the right clusive rights to sell an existing Already this year the firm Basic earnings per share gained ily from the Pearl River Delta, model,” said Fung. brand, to grow substantially. has acquired CPD Asia, which 33 percent to 11.5 cents. long the core of manufacturing, The company said its three- “Property brands make more makes cosmetics display units, In releasing the results, to less-developed provinces. year goal of achieving $1 billion margin,” he said. “In a down- and Silvereed Group, a fashion William Fung, group managing International trade protection- in sales in its New York-based turn, you’d rather your custom- company that works with such director of Li & Fung Ltd., said ist measures, which Fung be- LF USA unit has been achieved. ers buy the higher-margin brand brands as BCBG. he believes a tough economic lieves will increase during eco- LF USA includes private label than the lower-margin brand.” “We’re not just looking for climate provides growth poten- nomic downtimes and are often manufacturing, proprietary As for acquisitions, Fung big [acquisitions], but also for tial in sourcing. directed at China, are another brands and an extensive licens- said the company will continue small ones,” said Fung, who “We think the outsourcing important factor. Still, China is ing portfolio. Bruce Rockowitz, to buy new businesses, with a noted that Li & Fung keeps a trend is here to stay,” he said. and will continue to be a corner- president of Li & Fung, said the focus on two sectors: health, war chest of $100 million for “I think this is an era of ‘radi- stone of Li & Fung’s business. company plans to duplicate this beauty and cosmetics, or HBC, smaller acquisitions. “Things cal’ outsourcing. People are “You need many Vietnams to model in Europe and China. and footwear. are still hot on the acquisition asking, ‘Should I have my own make one China,” said Fung. “No Fung said he particularly ex- “We’ve always been in foot- front and it will continue.” Presidential Policy: Weighing in on NAFTA By Kristi Ellis my has weakened considerably. At an appearance at a com- WASHINGTON — In a sign the munity college in Raleigh, N.C., 14-year-old North American Free Clinton proposed a $12.5 billion, Trade Agreement will remain in fi ve-year job retraining program, the spotlight in the presidential while Obama proposed relief for election, top policy advisers for homeowners suffering from a the three leading presidential crippling mortgage crisis and an candidates defended their trade additional $30 billion stimulus policies Thursday. package to address the faltering Senior advisers for Sens. U.S. economy. Barack Obama (D., Ill.) and At the same time, House Ways Hillary Rodham Clinton (D., & Means Committee Democrats, N.Y.), who are locked in a tight led by chairman Charles Rangel race for the Democratic nomi- (D., N.Y.), sent a letter to President nation, and Sen. John McCain, Bush urging him to take a more the presumptive Republican aggressive stance against China’s nominee, convened in one room currency, which critics claim is in the nation’s capital to lay undervalued by as much as 40 out the candidates’ positions percent, driving up the trade defi - Presidential candidates Hillary Rodham Clinton, John McCain and Barack Obama. on NAFTA, labor and environ- cit and leading to job losses. mental standards and aid for Clinton adviser Gary Gensler adding that those standards were As far as China being over- Gensler said after the forum American workers who lose and Obama adviser Daniel shunted into a side agreement shadowed by NAFTA in the that Clinton has spoken to both their jobs because of interna- Tarullo insisted the Democratic when NAFTA was enacted. debates, Gensler and Tarullo issues on the campaign trail. tional trade. The event was candidates are serious about re- McCain adviser Doug Holtz- argued that their candidates “She feels [China’s under- sponsored by the Institute for negotiating NAFTA to include Eakin was alone among the have focused on China’s under- valued currency] has disad- Policy Innovation, a think tank stronger international labor and three in opposing any NAFTA valued currency and both have vantaged Americans,” he said. based in Lewisville, Tex. environmental provisions. They renegotiation. pledged to address it. Obama “China has controlled their The advisers also touched denied allegations by critics that “Demonizing trade agree- and Clinton both support pend- currency exchange rate and she briefl y on China’s undervalued it is just campaign rhetoric. ments is a bad economic policy, ing legislation in the Senate feels as president that we have currency, which has been in the “Senator Clinton has been it’s bad foreign policy,” said that would use trade remedy many things to discuss with spotlight on Capitol Hill for the very clear and she is seri- Holtz-Eakin. “Recent attempts laws to impose higher duties the Chinese, many good parts past two years. ous about this,” said Gensler. to point to NAFTA as the source on imported Chinese products in the relationship, and [then Also on Thursday, Obama “She has said, ‘I will opt out of of grave diffi culties in the U.S. if the country doesn’t reform its there’s] this one [undervalued and Clinton offered competing NAFTA unless we renegotiate.’ manufacturing sector are at odds currency policy. currency], which she would be economic plans on the cam- She believes and she is quite with any reputable study on the “Senator Obama is interest- more focused on than the cur- paign trail, as the Commerce confi dent that as president she impact of the trade agreement ed in reorienting trade policy,” rent administration.” Department reported that gross will be able do that.” on the U.S., Canada and Mexico. Tarullo said. “There are oppor- On pending trade pacts, domestic product — the value of Tarullo said Obama has “a It sends the wrong signal to the tunities and there are problems Gensler and Tarullo said Clinton all goods and services produced paper trail of continuity” on his number one and number two that have gone unaddressed, and Obama oppose free trade in the U.S. — posted an anemic position on NAFTA. trading partners with the U.S. whether it is forms of subsidiza- agreements with South Korea, 0.6 percent annual rate increase “We need to change [NAFTA] and makes our diffi culties in es- tion or whether it be the larger Colombia and Panama, while in the fourth quarter of 2007, to put in binding labor and en- tablishing a U.S. presence in the backdrop of currency issues and Holtz-Eakin said McCain sup- marking another sign the econo- vironmental standards,” he said, globe even harder.” currency manipulation.” ports all three deals. WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 11 WWD.COM Seven For All Mankind Coming to Manhattan By Sharon Edelson For All Mankind fi ts seamlessly tributes as the unit on Robertson into its landscape and adds to Boulevard in Los Angeles, which A look from Seven For All Mankind. NEW YORK — Seven For All the area’s desirable compilation has white lacquer walls, gray ce- Mankind will open its first of high-end boutiques.” ment fl oors and three plinths Manhattan store in the fall, a The fl agship “will be mutu- made of Russian marble and 3,000-square-foot flagship in SoHo. ally benefi cial to both our brand deep zebrano wood running the The premium denim and our wholesale accounts,” length of the store. “It will also brand’s unit will be at 394 West Battista said. “Our wholesalers have elements that are uniquely Broadway, replacing Smith & are great partners and we will New York,” he added. Hawken outdoor living products, continue to support them.” Seven For All Mankind’s re- which is closing Tuesday. The store will carry exclusive tail development has been slow. “When 394 West Broadway merchandise and act as a lab of In addition to Los Angeles, there became available, we knew we sorts. “One valuable asset in is a store in Dallas. The brand’s had found the ideal location having a retail store is that we jeans average $175 at retail. to open our first retail store are able to test and tailor our VF Corp. acquired Seven For in New York City,” said Aaron product to meet the needs of All Mankind in July 2007 and has Battista, vice president of retail our customers quickly and effi - set a goal of opening some 100 for the Los Angeles-based brand. ciently,” Battista said. stores over the next fi ve years. The “SoHo really is a window into Battista said the fl agship will company also has been expanding the world of fashion, and Seven have many of the same design at- into footwear and accessories. More Shifts For Execs Beauty has soul. At Reebok By Whitney Beckett hree weeks after Reebok TInternational got a new chief executive officer, the Canton, Mass.-based active company is shaking up the rest of its management ranks, with a new chief market- ing offi cer as well as a new president of Reebok North America. Matt O’Toole, formerly president of Reebok North America, is being promoted to chief marketing offi cer of COSMOPROF Reebok International, the spot WORLDWIDE 2008 vacated by new ceo Uli Becker st earlier this month. O’Toole is 41 Edition th succeeded in his president’s 10th-14 April post by Jim Gabel, senior vice president of Adidas America. Bologna (Italy) - Fair district The moves are being made www.cosmoprof.com by parent company Adidas after its 2006 acquisition of Reebok failed to deliver growth consistent with that of the Adidas brand. Based in Canton, O’Toole, 45, and Gabel, 45, will both report directly to Becker. O’Toole’s appointment is ef- fective Tuesday, and Gabel will join the company in mid- April, after he relocates from th Mississauga, Ontario. 10th-13 April 2008 Prior to his appointment as president of Reebok North America, O’Toole served as president and ceo of Reebok- CCM Hockey, formerly The Hockey Co. Gabel previously AN EVENT WITHIN THE EVENT. served as president of Adidas In&Out-Perfumes&Pack&Co is the new look this year for pavilions 16-18 and 19-20. Canada, and also held senior An event within the event, showcasing within level positions at Champion Cosmoprof the very best in international Canada and Mizuno Canada. Perfumes, Cosmetics and Packaging. Like Gabel, Becker came from Adidas, where he served from 1990 until coming to Reebok in 2006. He replaced Paul Harrington, a Reebok in- sider, who moved to California to take over as ceo of Easton- Bell Sports, a sports equip- ment fi rm. When Adidas released its earnings earlier this month, it was clear that while the German brand was growing, Organised by SoGeCos S.p.A. via Filargo, 38 its smaller American counter- Milan (I) - Tel. +39 02 796 420 - [email protected] part had been stagnating. For 2007, Adidas brand sales in- creased 12 percent to $9.9 bil- lion, while Reebok sales held fl at at $3.2 billion. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 WWD.COM Media/Advertising Bringing Bloggers Into the Club

By Irin Carmon to retain her objectivity, unless they’re to be used for giveaway contests on the site. Craig and her business partner, Kelly Cook, have leveraged their audience of hough it has long been a cliché to talk about an Internet revolution, in the fashion 200,000 uniques and 500,000 page views per month — and their previous experiences Tworld, companies are still fi guring out how to join it, especially when it comes to in the fashion and entertainment industries — to forge closer contacts with brands. online media. At de la Renta, for instance, Craig visited the showroom and what she referred to as Fashion houses fi rst dipped their toe in the waters of the blogging world by grant- “Oscar’s inner sanctum.” ing credentials for bloggers to enter the tents at New York Fashion Week and, if they “I got more out of him in that hour than in any of my years in the fashion industry,” were lucky, standing room space at a few shows. Eventually, some of the more repu- she raved. The Web site and the fashion house cohosted an event in Dallas and at the table — or aggressive — were granted seats. Melrose Oscar de la Renta stores. Now, between the seemingly anarchic independent online venues and the ev- “That was a culmination of two years on our part to show that we’re professionals,” er-striving but sometimes anemic Web offerings of magazine companies, fashion she said. “We’re working to change the way consumers and manufacturers interact.” brands and public-relations fi rms are starting to suss out places where the relation- She pointed to one de la Renta fall handbag, the Goya, which drew tremendous ships can progress. interest after being featured on Bag Snob. “The projected price was $11,000. After we “All these things we’ve been hearing about for years are starting to come through,” featured it, there was such a huge response and so many people were calling, they said Alex Bolen, chief executive offi cer of Oscar de la Renta. “In the blogosphere, dropped it to $4,750.” the wheat is being separated from the chaff. I would say that respected and trusted (Bolen had a slightly different take, however. “What would be fair to say is that the authorities are emerging.” demand that came exclusively from Bag Snob read- For de la Renta, that’s meant tentative but pioneer- ers had us rethink our projections and production as- ing steps to collaborate with bloggers in a manner sim- sumptions for that bag. Whether that had a price im- ilar to the company’s relationships with the big media pact, I think that might be a bit of a stretch.”) companies. “We are not deluded in thinking our blogs will ever And while Internet-only venues are still experi- replace Vogue or Allure, but we think we strive to be a menting themselves, some are becoming more like strong supplement to them and fi ll a niche that we feel fashion magazines in other ways. Julie Fredrickson is missing,” Craig told WWD. of Coutorture, who has made herself prominent in As fashion brands experiment with online adver- the debate, said she no longer considers Coutorture tising and their own e-commerce and content sites, a blog, since it has begun steadily producing edito- their editorial collaborations with online venues are rial shoots with models (mostly working for free) and helping them fi gure out what to do. But the ground samples called in from designers. They shot de la is still shifting, both for them and for the bloggers, Renta and Isaac Mizrahi fall collections for online who are suddenly getting calls and e-mails returned spreads that cost about $300 to $400 each to produce they might never have gotten before. “The old way of — not exactly Annie Leibovitz for Vogue, but signifi - doing things was very set in stone,” said Scott. “We’re cantly more investment than some might expect. all making it up. We all can have a hand in making it “I got tired of blogging in a lot of ways,” Fredrickson a good, healthy thing, or making it adversarial.” said. “A lot of people are focused on re-blogging stuff. Witness Gucci’s experience in trying to marshal It’s not actually media — it’s looking at photos and fashion bloggers for its microsite to celebrate the commenting on it. Fast, real-time shoots, sort of guer- Blogger Susanna Lau, opening of the company’s Manhattan fl agship during rilla fashion spreads, are the next revolution.” aka Susie Bubble, at New York Fashion Week, following a similar effort by In an industry built partly on exclusivity and limited Tina Craig of Bag Snob visits the Gucci party at the Chanel, which in September fl ew a group of bloggers access, participating in such projects is a gamble for with Oscar de la Renta. United Nations. from around the world to Paris to promote its Coco these companies. “We as brand managers spend a lot Mademoiselle fragrance. of time trying to protect and control our environment,” Gucci fl ew in bloggers from places like London conceded Bolen. “There is a certain giving up of control once things go out on the and Japan, all expenses paid, and asked some to blog about their favorite New York Internet….[But] my feeling is that it will happen anyway, so I’d rather be involved.” experiences. Fashion Indie blogger Daniel Saynt complained on his blog, to broad Deciding where to focus that involvement has become easier now that there are pickup around the Web, that actual New York-based bloggers had been shafted, and known quantities of online fashion writers among the countless bloggers out there — he later received an invite to the brand’s lavish party at the United Nations. (A even if they aren’t commercial ventures on the scale of a major fashion title. “There’s spokeswoman for Gucci said New York bloggers had always been invited, but that a weeding-out period,” said Lesley Scott, editor in chief of Fashion Tribes, adding, not all were able to attend.) “There are higher standards now. It’s not enough to have a blog. You have to earn There, Saynt chatted and took photos with creative director Frida Giannini, and your readership on a weekly and daily basis.” the company also had a bloggers-only tour of the store hosted by chief executive Mark Of course, some companies remain uninterested in dealing with bloggers. “The Lee. “Can’t hate on Gucci anymore,” Saynt wrote on his blog. “Good job Gucci on biggest resistance I feel is from brands that don’t want overexposure — the very elite, keeping tabs on us rogue publishers. It’s the wild, wild West on the Web and it seems very high-fashion brands that are concerned with oversaturation in the market,” said you’ve fi gured out ways to keep us outlaws happy.” Susan Cernek, fashion and beauty director of the blog network Glam.com. Inevitably, the more access independent online fashion media gets, the more liable Still, the targeting possibilities online are signifi cant. As persistent job cuts and it is to fall under the pressures of traditional fashion media: advertisers counting edi- readership declines continue to affl ict the newspaper industry, local bloggers become torial credits, and write-ups glossing over certain things for the sake of relationships. a way to fi ll the vacuum for brands looking to make a dent in that particular region. Bloggers are still wrestling with the question. “There are fashion bloggers in a lot of major markets where the local offl ine press “I’ll be brutally honest and say that when Gucci fi rst approached me about par- does not have a style section. In those places, targeting local fashion bloggers helps ticipating in this trip and attending the event…I had to question whether me posting build that buzz in small but major markets,” Cernek said. about Gucci, a brand that I have never shown great love for, would be blog-ethical,” Hamilton South, partner at HL Group, recalled seeing such a phenomenon wrote Susie Bubble of Style Bubble in London. “The way I did approach it is to per- in action with Tina Craig of the blog Bag Snob at a Valextra event in Dallas, an haps try and see if I would personally have a change of opinion, whilst taking in a trip experience that countered any supposition that fashion blogs’ readers are kids on behalf of the blog.” who can’t afford to buy. “These were very serious grown-up female consumers,” But like print magazines, many bloggers believe they’ll be able to maintain their South recalled. “Many were middle aged, very affl uent, and [Craig] was the voice editorial integrity. Craig noted that even when her site is tough on bags from Louis of authority.” Vuitton or those on offer at eLuxury — a site with which it partners — the posts are And contrary to the image of the blogger setting up shop to reap freebies, Craig at still referring readers and buyers to those sites. “They all realize that being talked least said she buys all of her own bags and sends back bags sent to her from p.r. fi rms about is good, even when it’s not so positive,” she said.

statement) and includes 14 pages of the fashion icon and London and the mailboxes of its most loyal passengers. from 1990 to today.— Miles Socha The title, originally envisioned as Club 48 Lifestyles, is keeping its focus mostly on its wealthy passengers, in MEMO PAD HOPING FOR SOME ATTENTION: German fashion magazine a departure from typical in-fl ight magazines, including Achtung arrived for the fi rst time on New York newsstands articles in the premier issue on Lady Lynn de Rothschild’s art BOOK ENDS: An unauthorized biography about Kate Moss this week. Markus Ebner, editor in chief, said Achtung will collection and Broadway producer Bill Haber’s life on- and has landed on French bookshelves, and — whether she be available in New York twice a year, at $20 per copy. offstage, the latter with Save the Children. The Eos Class likes it or not — the British supermodel is the toast of Ebner is bringing the magazine to the U.S, to fi nd a larger moniker refl ects the publication’s place among various Paris. “Kate, despite her high profi le, is really a very audience and make New York aware of what’s happening airline experiences, such as in-cabin services, events and a private person,” said Sir Paul Smith, who hosted a cocktail creatively in the German fashion world. “We wanted to new Web site, EosClassLounge.com, said Adam Komack, the Wednesday night for the tome at his boutique on the Rue make a magazine which feels German,” he said. “Hence airline’s chief lifestyle offi cer. du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, which stocks several vintage the choice of the coarse paper and the focus on putting Eos Class is being led by editorial director Mikki Dorsey, magazines featuring Moss on the cover. “She always high-end fashion in accessible contexts.” The issue has who has taken the helm instead of Doug Gollan, who has looks great,” Smith declared. The 300-page biography, both English and German text and is the 10th to be retreated from his anticipated role as editor in chief. titled “Kate Moss,” is by Françoise-Marie Santucci, an published (but the fi rst with a color cover). Initially, 1,000 Instead, he is on the business side of the magazine, as author and fashion journalist at French daily Libération copies have been sent to New York. — Amy Wicks president of the Elite Traveler Custom Publishing unit of for the last 15 years. She based the book on archive Universal Media. material and anecdotes from unnamed intimates, unable WHAT’S IN A NAME?: With a new name, a new editor and an The spring 2008 edition of Eos Class weighs in at to secure an interview. She fi gures her elusiveness ad rate of $15,000 for a single page — about three-times 66 pages and six single-page ads, including those for “keeps the Moss myth going.” Santucci calls her a the original price contemplated — 40,000 copies of the Leviev Diamonds, Breitling/Wempe, Trump Ocean Club, “Snow White of modern times” (presumably not realizing fi rst issue of Eos Class have begun hitting the premium Atlantis Residences, Corum and Perrelet/The Timepiece the number of puns that could be made off of that airline’s lounges, its 58 fl ights a week between New York Collection. — Valerie Seckler WWD, FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 2008 13 WWD.COM Nordstrom Takes Time Out for Charity By Katherine Bowers BURLINGTON, Mass. — Amid an aggressive expansion in metro Boston, Nordstrom was the host of a charity gala Wednesday at its Burlington Mall store, which opens today. “Of all the things we do, these [events] are the most fun,” said Pete Nordstrom, executive vice president and president of merchandising, who worked the shoe department crowd with brothers Blake, who is corporate president, and Erik, president of full-line stores. The Burlington store, about 20 miles west of Boston, is one of eight Nordstrom open- ings this year. That’s among the Seattle-based retailer’s busiest expansion years ever, Pete H&M 1st-Qtr. Profi ts Up Nordstrom said. He and Erik were to review a potential store location at the Danbury Fair Mall in Danbury, As Sales Rise 18 Percent Conn., on Thursday and return to Burlington for the opening this morning. By Robert Murphy The Nordstrom store that launched in the fall in the Natick Collection in Natick, Mass., PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz on Thursday said store openings and continues to run ahead of plan, he said. The lower buying costs boosted first-quarter profits by 28 percent, il- company is slated to have four stores in the lustrating the Swedish fast-fashion giant’s ability to log impressive metro Boston market by 2010. growth in a challenging market. Rick Sokolov, president of Simon Property H&M said group profi ts after taxes in the three months through Group, which owns Burlington Mall, circulat- Feb. 29 reached 2.94 billion Swedish kronor, or $458.7 million at ed throughout the crowd with a pleased look. Blake, Pete and Erik Nordstrom. average exchange, as sales advanced 18 percent to 19.74 billion Nordstrom will anchor new expansion wings MEGHAN JONES PHOTO BY Swedish kronor, or $3.1 billion. in three of Simon’s Boston-area malls. The The Stockholm-based fi rm said, “well-composed collections and next opening will be in the Northshore Mall in followed by Burlington. The Burlington store expanded Internet and catalogue sales and a slightly positive calen- Peabody, Mass., in 2009. has extensive contemporary offerings, includ- dar effect” drove the growth. “We know there is a lot on the line,” Pete ing specialty labels like M Missoni and Robert H&M recently has expanded its e-commerce and mail-order Nordstrom said. “We have a lot of momentum Rodriguez. It’s a market segment that has been activities. The catalogues in Germany and Austria launched in right now because of anticipation and the fact underrepresented at Burlington Mall. January and have been “developing very nicely,” said Nils Vinge, that we’re new. We know to sustain earnings The event, benefiting the Dana-Farber head of investor relations. over time we have to be focused on executing.” Cancer Institute, the Junior League of Boston H&M said the sinking value of the dollar, which has hit historic lows In terms of positioning within the market, and the Boston and Middlesex Chapters of The against the euro and kronor, positively affected the fi rm’s accounts. Natick will have the most upscale assortment, Links Inc., raised $160,000. “The development of the U.S. dollar exchange rate has led to lower buying costs,” said H&M, which outsources the majority of its production in Asia, where prices generally are posted in dollars. Sales in the U.S. in the quarter gained 15 percent to 1.37 billion kronor, or $213.7 million. Growth was robust in most markets, except the United Kingdom, where sales grew 6 percent in local currency, Neiman’s Retrospective Looks ‘Through the Lens’ but were fl at after conversion into kronor. H&M said it would open 54 stores in the second quarter. For the By Rusty Williamson likes movies, The Ransom Center exhibit pres- year, the chain said it plans to inaugurate 190 units. ents a rare opportunity for the Dallas commu- H&M stock rallied 7.84 percent Thursday to close at 364.50 kro- eiman Marcus is celebrating the second an- nity to view fi rst-hand items from this world- nor, or $61.06, on the Stockholm stock exchange. Nnual AFI Dallas International Film Festival renowned collection,” said Steve Kornajcik, with a movie and fashion retrospective at the Neiman’s senior vice president of marketing chain’s Dallas flagship called “Through the and creative services. Lens Clearly — Icons and Images.” There are more than 200 items in the show: The exhibit, which opened Thursday and vintage photos of Hollywood icons such as Movado Net Gains 39.6%, will go through April 12, is free Joan Crawford, Greta to the public and features ma- Joan Crawford Garbo and Cary Grant, terials from The Harry Ransom costumes and story- Taps DeMarsilis as CFO Center at the University of Texas boards from “Gone in Austin. The arts, culture and With the Wind,” includ- By Liza Casabona humanities collection includes ing a replica of Scarlett 36 million pages of manuscript O’Hara’s green vel- ovado Group Inc. on Thursday posted strong increases in and more than one million rare vet curtain dress, and Mfourth-quarter and year-end earnings, boosted by a one- books, over 100,000 items in an Gloria Swanson’s anno- time $15 million tax benefit. art archive in excess of fi ve mil- tated script for “Sunset Earnings for the three months ended Jan. 31 grew 39.6 per- lion fi lm-related photos. Boulevard.” cent to $19.6 million, or 72 cents a diluted share, from $14 mil- “Whether you are an ardent The exhibit is staged lion, or 52 cents, in the same year-ago quarter. Sales declined fi lm buff or someone who just in Neiman’s various de- 2.6 percent to $138.6 million from $142.3 million. partments. For exam- For the full year, Movado said income jumped 21.3 percent ple, Alfred Hitchcock to $60.8 million, or $2.23 a diluted share, on a sales gain of 5 “Gone With the is the focus in the percent to $559.6 million. Wind” curtain dress. first-floor shoe salon, During a call on Thursday, company executives said the which features story- fourth quarter was challenging because of economic woes in boards, props, posters the United States. and manuscripts from According to the company, it received $20.8 million, or several of Hitchcock’s 76 cents a diluted share, from the settlement of an Internal classic films, in- Revenue Service tax examination. That resulted in the $15 mil- cluding “Rebecca,” lion boost to fourth-quarter results. Spellbound” and The company attributed its positive results to a strategically “North by Northwest.” diversifi ed business model that expanded its geographic expo- The designer jewelry department has dress- sure and brand diversity. es from the fi lms “Road to Morocco” and “An Efraim Grinberg, chairman and chief executive offi cer of the Affair to Remember,” among others. Dress de- company, said 50 percent of the company’s wholesale revenue partments include an array of items from “Gone and 40 percent of total revenue are generated internationally. With the Wind.” “Our international performance exceeded our expectations Men’s departments pay homage to Robert De and offset weakness in the U.S. In fact, total international sales Niro with the green jacket he wore in the 1976 in fi scal 2008 increased a strong 29 percent over last year, ex- movie “Taxi Driver” along with his costumes cluding sales of excess discontinued product,” Grinberg said from “Goodfellas,” “Raging Bull” and “Casino.” during a call Thursday. The AFI Dallas International Film Festival Separately, Movado named Sallie DeMarsilis as chief fi - runs March 27 to April 6 at art cinemas nancial offi cer and principal accounting offi cer. She succeeds across Dallas, including the Inwood Theater, Eugene Karpovich, who remains an offi cer of the company and Magnolia Theater, Angelika Film Center and a senior member of its management team. the Majestic Theater. 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