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Contents

Plan Your Trip Welcome to ...... 4 Top Sights ...... 6 Eating ...... 10 Drinking & Nightlife ...... 12 Shopping ...... 14 ...... 16 Architecture ...... 18 History ...... 20 Parks & Gardens ...... 22 Riverside Activities ...... 23 Tours ...... 24 Cooking & Wine-Tasting Courses ..... 25 For Kids ...... 26 LGBT+ ...... 27 Four Perfect Days ...... 28 Need to Know ...... 30 Paris Neighbourhoods .... 32

Arc de Triomphe (p54) MISCELLANEOUSTOCK/ALAMY ©

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Explore Survival Paris 35 Guide 203 & Before You Go ...... 204 ...... 37 Arriving in Paris ...... 205 & Getting Around ...... 208 the Champs-Élysées ...... 53 Essential Information ... 210 , Tuileries & Opéra ...... 67 Language ...... 215 Sacré-Cœur & ...... 93 & Special Features Le Marais ...... 111 ...... 38 Notre Dame & Musée Rodin ...... 40 the Islands ...... 135 Arc de Triomphe ...... 54 The Latin Quarter ...... 153 Louvre ...... 68 Musée d’Orsay & St-Germain Sacré-Cœur ...... 94 des Prés ...... 175 Centre Pompidou ...... 112 Notre Dame ...... 136 Worth a Trip Musée d’Orsay ...... 176 Père Lachaise ...... 132 ...178 Versailles ...... 198

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NamedNamed forfor itsits lealeadingding rroleole in the AAgege ofof EnlEnlightenment,ightenment, la vilvillele lumière (the(the CityCity of LightLight)) iiss ffamedamed for its -limonument-linedned bouleboulevards,vards treasure-packedtreasure-packed museums, classic bistros and hauhautete coucoutureture (high fashion) houses. Today they’re enhanced by a new wave of multimedia galleries, design shops and tech start-ups that are reasserting Paris’ position as a visionary global city.

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Eiffel Tower Quintessentially Paris. p38

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ROMAN BELOGORODOV/SHUTTERSTOCK © Musée Rodin with a sculpture-studded garden. p40 Plan Your Trip Top Sights Top

Arc de Triomphe A monument to past glories. p54 BENNY MARTY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Louvre The mother of all museums. p68 PAWEL LIBERA/GETTY IMAGES © Plan Your Trip Top Sights Top LEFT: NATTEE CHALERMTIRAGOOL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; RIGHT: SAILORR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Sacré-Cœur Centre Pompidou Sacré-Cœur’s dove-white domes Europe’s largest collection of crown Montmartre. p94 modern art. p112

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Notre Dame Jardin du Luxembourg French Gothic masterpiece. Playground of Paris. p178 p136 ET AAO/HTESOK© IH:JLJ GOOSISUTRTC SALVADOR MANIQUIZ/SHUTTERSTOCK © LEFT: BADAHOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; RIGHT: JULIJA OGRODOWSKI/SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your Trip Top Sights Top

Musée d’Orsay Art in an upcycled train station. p176

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