Elluminate Issue 4
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No. 4. 3/2018 EXPERIENCE INNOVATION A bi-monthly report for idea seekers, brands and executives ABOUT Steven Kainth has been helping brands and retailers to think about Innovation for almost 20 years. The heart of what he does is create Human Experiences that deliver results. He works across retail, events, product and digital to express messages that resonate with consumers. His process utilises creative resources, first hand experiences, data and thought leadership to generate valuable insights. “Steven is truly a rare find. He's a brilliant strategist with a keen ability to stay tuned in to those industry happenings that others seem to miss. He is the consummate dot- connector, making profound observations that tie the current trends to client needs in practical, usable, achievable ways. He is deft and inspiring in his communications with current and prospective clients: they seem to hang on his every word...but it's not just flare. He has the substance to back it up”. Brian Barthelt General Manager, Marmon, a Berkshire Hathaway Company Brand experience include This document is used by FTSE/FORTUNE 100 brands. PURPOSE OF THIS REPORT To inspire curious minds. To provide intelligence and insights, that drives idea generation, through innovative thinking. ________________________ This issue looks at the the changing fashion space that made headlines in February & March 2018. We look at the new digital influencers to culture makers and trend setters. We also explore wearables, focusing on innovations around the eyes. Also included in this edition is Voice assistants and platforms , Drones, New Retail and highlights from Baselworld, the worlds premier watch and jewellery fair. I hope you find this report insightful and inspiring. Steven Kainth NEW BEAUTY FASHION SHUDU The new curated muses taking over editorial and social brand content. Image: Cameron-James Wilson SHUDU The dawn of the digital supermodel WHO IS SHE & WHY SHE MATTERS? Shudu, the model behind the page @shudu.gram and she is being called one of the most beautiful models on Instagram, Shudu has caused controversy, hinging around the fact that she’s not actually real, she’s born as a result of an project by London based photographer Cameron James-Wilson. There’s a concept known as the “uncanny valley”, this describes that eerie feeling that arises when objects ‘look’ human, but don’t quite manage the intended realistic effect, mannequins, dolls, Sophia the Robot etc. are all examples. Shudu is notable for being post-uncanny valley, appearing so human that most people, even with a closer look, wouldn’t suspect that she’s a computer generated model. INSPIRING IDEAS: - What we are witnessing is the start of a new curated world where brands are considering how they are perceived and judged, not only in a digital world but also in an augmented human world. - A new discipline of graphic designers and artists are emerging who are pushing the boundaries of creative expression. These individuals are the next generation of UI/UX designers who understand how brands live, communicate and sell in the virtual world. Image: Cameron-James Wilson WHO IS SHE? Shudu is not alone, virtual influencer Lil’ Miquela is an avatar with a lifestyle. She’s pictured here wearing Balmain is using used her curated celebrity status by taking over “fashion shoots” for many luxury brands including curating stories for Prada on Instagram as seen during AW18 Milan fashion week. Lil Miquela descents from Brazil and lives in L.A., her curators are a mysteriously unknown. WHY SHE MATTERS: What sort of a role model is Lil Miquela playing? What does her LIL MIQUELA vision of beauty and fashion say to humans that are influenced by her? This is post feminism and A living avatar humanism. Is it healthy? Expect more avatars like this, driven by the new social media aesthetics and ideals. Image: Lil Miquela for Balmain VIRGIL ABLOH Creative Polymath WHO IS HE? Luxury streetwear designer, Virgil Abloh was appointed the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear. Born in Rockford, Illinois, Abloh studied engineering and architecture. After he met Kanye West whilst working as DJ, he designed the rapper’s merchandise, propelling him into the limelight. The all round creative polymath’s own label, Off White, is one of fashion’s most in demand new brands. Abloh is the first black designer to be awarded such a high-profile position at Louis Vuitton, the world’s biggest luxury brand, worth £20.30bn in May 2017. Michael Burke, Louis Vuitton’s chairman and CEO, praised how Abloh’s and commenting, “his innate creativity and disruptive approach has made him very relevant, not just in the world of fashion but also in popular culture today”. It’s this point that's so interesting, fashion’s going through so many changes right now and the biggest one is around culture verses design. “Virgil is one of the few designers who truly marries street culture with high fashion – and the first black designer to be given such a position in the gilded halls of LVMH. His appointment is a step in the right direction for diversity.” Edward Enninful, editor-in-chief at British Vogue. Image: Eugene Shishkin FASHION A new culture THOUGHTS Fashion is about change, new ideas, an expression of creativity at a given moment in time. Up until now, its been primarily centred around design and creative influences a designer or fashion house has. Today we seeing a shift away from design alone and much more about culture. Take Supreme, the uber cool American skateboarding clothing brand established in New York City in 1994, the brand caters to the skateboarding, hip hop, and rock audiences, and focuses on youth culture in general. To date its collaborated with many brands, notably Louis Vuitton with whom it enjoyed phenomenal success. Rumours suggest Dolce & Gabbana and Rolex could be the next luxury brands in line to get “hyped”. The appointment of Virgil Abloh, (previous slide) who has been hired by Louis Vuitton, not because he is a master craftsman, but more so because he is a master culture maker. The designer has already collaborated with Nike and Ikea – he understands popular culture and his loyal 2M Instagram followers will create a highly profitable contemporary cultural shift for LVMH owned Louis Vuitton. Fashion “drops” where a brand releases a product in limited numbers via a hyped sales mechanic online, drives a frenzy of both savvy youngsters and their automated bots trying to get their hands on these limited editions pieces which usually end up on trendy fashion resale apps such or Depop or ebay for 3-5 time their original value. Teenagers are not only making 5k per month hustling this gear, but in fact are changing the course of fashion culture and commerce. Image: Van Gogh by Shusaku Takaoka GUCCI x DAPPER DAN A unique collaboration WHO IS HE? Dap, (real name Daniel Day), is the Harlem couturier who spent much the 1980’s inventing his own kind of fashion, “remixing” luxury goods from brands like Gucci, Fendi and Louis Vuitton into newer, weirder garments worn by local and visiting hip hop royalty. After legal threats from Fendi, Dan (aka Dapper Dan) found himself pushed out of business. Fast forward to 2017, Gucci Creative Director, Alessandro Michele (who is currently responsible for the fastest growing established fashion brand in the world today), creates a knockoff of a “knockup” that looks exactly like on of Dan’s creations, and in doing so, brings Dan back into the spotlight. This is no ordinary spotlight however, Gucci announces that they and Dapper Dan would be undertaking a joint venture in a new Harlem atelier, a space for Dan to work his sartorial magic with a free hand and raw materials supplied by Gucci. The new Harlem boutique has made-to-order garments and will carry limited edition items and accessories available for purchase by appointment. WHY THIS MATTERS & HOW IT CAN INSPIRE NEW IDEAS? This collaboration is about culture, a way for a Gucci to play in a space that may otherwise be inaccessible. Fashion is about reinvention, about individuality, for Gucci its also about craft and what Dapper Dan delivers for Gucci is not only aligned, but also unique, fresh and cool beyond the mainstream. As individuals build communities, these communities have the potential to be incredibly influential and collaborations like this is something that will become more common. Image: GQ Images: Dapper Dan D&G Runway drones WHAT HAPPENEND? Dolce & Gabbana was beyond trend at this years A/W Milan Fashion Week in March. The designers sent quadcopter drones carrying handbags down the runway, surprising the audience who created a frenzy on social media. You may ask why? Is this just a new way of entertaining the audience? I would say not. It was a very calculated move that was centred on the audience and how they would react seeing this unusual spectacle. They beamed live streams, and uploaded photos via their social channels to their vast followings. That’s how to amplify a show and make use of influencers without paying anyone a penny. Image: Dolce & Gabbana BARBIE The Shero: Inspiring and influential women WHAT IS IT? 86% of U.S. mothers are worried about the role models their daughters are exposed to. Barbie is inspiring and celebrated International Women’s Day (March 8th) by honouring female role models by giving them their own "Shero" and “Inspirational Women” dolls. The "Shero" collection already has dolls modelled after ballerina Misty Copeland, Olympic fencer Ibtihaj Muhammad, model Ashley Graham, and gymnast Gabby Douglas. But with so many inspiring women making history, Barbie wants to honour more role models with its popular dolls.