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Farmto FJ Gers · I I Farm to FJ�gers· The·Culture and· Politics of Food in Contemporary. India \(_ ! ) . ' Editedby KiranmayiBhushi gCAMBRIDGE � UNrv:ERSITY PRESS CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITYPRESS UniversityPrinting House, Cambridge.CJ32 8BS, United Kingdom One Liberty Plaza{�O�.F\?q�ii�e'f-f �rk{Nt. 1gop6, JJ�4·"' 477 WilliamstownR.��; i>�tiMclbO�rne, vie 3207, A��ilia···- 1 to 2 o. pl r aDis e N D 02 n ia 3 4 3 l,}r4 f'.MAAP1 t-N 3., � �do EO.(l.laj,J,a.sql tr��:C:::. 11:t:r�, � �;119 S,I d ,. '._<?: ' -. ,, -,, j \ _: --� �\ . _; . .cl '-:.'; . "; - ·-. 79 Anson .Road, #06-04/06,- Singapore- 079906 Cambridge UniversityP��ss iS!��of-the·Uni�Sity �fC�inbri��e. It furthers.the University's mission by disseminating knowledgein the pursuit of education, learning and research at thehighest international levels of excellence. www.cambridge.org Information on this title:www.cambridge.org/9781108416290 © Cambridge University Press 2018 In memory Hana Malikand DwijenRangnekar Thispublication is in copyright. Subjectto statutory exception of and to the provisions of relevant collective licensing agreements, forthe inspiring way you embracedlife no reproduction of any part may take place without the written permission of Cambridge University Press. Firstpublished 2018 Printed in Indiaby ShreeMaitrey Printech Pvt.Ltd., Noida A catalogue recordfor this p ublication_ isavailable from 'theBritish Library Libraryof Congress Cataloging-in-l!_1!_li/i�o/jp'?f-J:)q_{a- ·Names: Bhushi, Kiranmayi, editor.· Title: Farm to.fingers : the culture and. politics of food in contemporary India I edited by KiranmayiBhushi. Description: New York: Cambridge University Press, [2017] I Includes bibliographical references and index, Id,ntifiena:LCCN 2017042290 f ISBN 9781108416290 (ha,db:,ck: alk. pap") Subjects: LCSH:· Food industry and trade--lndia. I Food--Religious aspects--Buddhism, [Christianity,etc.] I Diet--India. I India--Social life and customs. Classification:LCC TP369.I5 F37 2017 I DDC 338.1/954--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017042290 ISBN 978-1-108-41629-0 Ha,dback Cambridge University Press bas no responsibility.for the persistence or accuracy ofURLs for externalor third-party internet websites referred to in thispu blication, and does not guarantee that any content On such websites is, o� will-remain, accurate or appropriate. r t . Contents List ofFigures and Tables ix Preface xi 1. Introduction 1 Kiranmayi Bhushi 2. The Makingof'Edible Animal Source Foods' and its 37 ContemporaryReality in Delhi Estelle Fourat 3. Appropriatingthe Cow: Beef and IdentityPolitics in 58 ContemporaryIndia JamesStaples 4. Eating Akhuni in India 80 DollyKikon 5. Health,Standardization and 'Bengali'Sweets 103 IshitaDey 6. Treating Children,Feeding Junk Food: An Inquiryinto 128 a Middle Class Project AnjaliBhatia 7. Diaspora Dish: Cooking,Writing, and CreatingIdentities 157 in Food-biogs SucharitaSarkar 8. MeasuringHunger: Debates on an 'Adequate'Diet in 184 ColonialNorth India Sanjay Sharma viii &,, Contents 9. Managing Food: India'sExperience with the Public 215 Distribution System DeepankarBasu and Debarshi bas 10. Food Sovereignty:The Future of Food 236 RadhaGopalan Contributors List of Figuresand Tables 269 Index 273 FIGURES 4.1 A basket of fermented soya beans 83 4.2 AnoliSumi makingakhuni cakes 87 TABLES 4.1 Names offermented soyabeans in Nagaland 89 5.1 Relatively sweet -sweeteners -and their corresponding sweetness factor and calorie count 108 5.2 High-intensity sweeteners and their corresponding sweetness 109 8.1 Number oflabouting poor employedby the charity of govetnment at thesudder station of Agra 188 9;1 Average MonthlyPDS Consumption ofFoodgrains (Rice + Wheat) across States, kgs/person 228 9.2 Average MonthlyPDS ConsumptiongfFoodgrains (Rice + Wheat) acrossDeciles ofMPCE; kgs/person 231 10.1 Dominant model versus foodsovereignty model (Adaptedfrom Rosset, 2003) 241 j '·j·l I I EatingAkhuni in India b 81 I wayto understand.this dominantversion of Indian -modernityis to note how a particular version oflncµan historyand p�er networks plays a significant role,·in dictatingthe. dietary practices of dominant groupsas -nationalcuisine, while other food habits ·are·erased from the social memory an� the dining . tables ofthe nation. 1 . Ea.tingAkhuniinlndia In the_last decade, wehave witnessed theemergence of ethnic cuisines from Northeast India.inmetropOlitan· cities across the-country. Followingthe food map and emerging literatureon Northeastern. cuisine,it appearsas thoughthe DollyKikon region'seclectic flavoursand its food cultureshave·caught the imagination of foodenthusiasts and writers from"New Delhi,Mumbai, Bengaluru,and other metropolitan cities. At the same time,_such musings and·write-ups about consumption and food cultures of societies· from·Northeast India also reveal . Weare.not exoticbut ordinary the pressing·· and: distl.J.rbin15.imaginati _o_n;:,·of.the ·:nation, its·citizens, and the . (Latour 1993: 127) incommensurable divide_be twee_� ;civilip-tioriand''Primitivism. () _ l: Notice,the·cpl niali_st",and:EUfo�entric.views_about Naga people and their Introduction dietary habits· that appeared in the·. travel section of the Daily Telegraph, a nationaldaily from theUllited:Kirigdom; Traveler Stephen McClerence wrote I received -a:·t�·xt·message oii a September evening·in -2014.:Phrynium about his trip to Nagal:,ndiiriderthe heading 'No silkworm curry today, sir'. I _ _ _ . placentari_Um::fdniilyMaraniaceaeappC?ared-on·my screen. Earlier thaemoming, His xenophobic tone about the food,people, and the place are inseparable as a co1;1,versa�()Il about fe.i:ment�d_·:�oya· beans, _popul�ly· kri.bWfl··as. akhuni in he penS -his vieWS ofNaga ··so-d.ety._For instance, he d�scribes the food in the _ Naga!and,ahruJ)tly �amet� a halt.My dkb�,iiinterlocutors,an elderly woman followingmann,er: and. a young worn�b�th ..Prais.ed_\n.·tji�._p.eigh���Q9d � exCellen(._akhuni m�rs, app��d embatr_¥ise_d.They weI'e,u_n3:blc;:J_O. pin.poi_nt !4e prqper name, 'Delicacies includeroast dog, make kebabs, silkworm curry,p ig skin (variousrecipes), it, and steamedhOrnet and snail stew . or· as theyput the 'English.. _scientific·[l:irne.': of theJeaves :with,which Jhey ..A friend wh� -spent-six years there recalls one wrappedthe akhunicakes. The youngwoman expectantlyturned towards the challengingfeastth(!t climaxed with bison cooked in dog'sblood. We've even heard,_we elderlywomari·t o·salvage·-thecoriversation.:"l-will callmy cousin brother who tell-_ay oung Woman -'U)hohas dropped iiz for t e__qt4:h�t·the Nagas-enjoyeating whole, 0 no, notfrogs�·she' rotests. I think." The seven North works in the horticulture departinent·aildtext it to you,"·the elderly-woman frogs. ·"No, p ·"Tadpol�.011!y, Eastern.S!ates are y and accurately, describedas remote. 2 said. The_ discussionq�ckly resumed. 'l!!ua.ll , ' ·The. anxiety·-· that ·surfaCed-' during our--cortversati.On as a consequence of The;:__ desg;iption of_Naga food is uncanny. It is taken out of context, out the .Plll'Suitf�r a .. scientificn� _e _of �e _leaf reflects,_in S_aurabh Dube's words, - of _season, and .outside the realm_of_taboo_s, rituals, and feastings.Instead, it is ' ... (the) acute retlectiojls of the hierarchies of modernity'(2002: 731). Such moments of insecurities and the qiiest·for scientific n�es are premised on constructedwith dispositions denselypacked with collapsing the place and its inhabitants._The ignorance based o_n_the conversationwith a young woman from creating _ruptureswith particularvisions of thepast. In the-Naga people's case, Northeast India, on the one hand, andthe immaculately global and cosmopolitan it .is the dominant image of primitivism,savagery, and their knowledge systems being relegated as a 'tribal'practice that is simple and elementary.If one roughly travelergifted with powerful reasoningskills and knowledge on th�other. maps thetrajectory of modernity on the register of food and dietary habits, Thesimplicity ofMcClerence's logic is clear. It r.eiterates the modern versus including thepromotion of a nationalcuisine in India via cookbooks, television the primitive�the civilized versus the savage, thecentre/modem versus the exotic shows, political manifestos,and popular magazines,it appears that there is a oppositions.It is easy_to reject such representationsof.Naga food;however, it reiteration of a singular version oflndian modernity(Appadurai 1988). One would also makeus accomplices in shj,ing away from-engaging and recognizing 82 ;,,. Dolly Kilwn EatingAkhuni in India &,, 83 how food and consumption play a significant role in normalizing everyday politicaland powercultures: In Northeast India, such projects and imaginations expressionsofrepulsions and enchantments.In.addition, the.celebration of food are·Iinkedwith power, develOpment; and-progress._ and attentionto dietarycnstoms and practices also underlines the role offood in There'aremany-ways to·be-modem, and one is·the refinementof the palate producing social meanings andmemories. Therefore, McClerence's reactionsto and theprocess of acquµ"ing a gastronomicalknowled ge.Akhunior fermented Naga foodporttaythe inextricably entwined and complexrelationship between soya beans simultaneously invokesa multitude of experiences for its consumers food,race, and history. and those in itsvicinity.Among all the food items thatNaga people relish,akhuni Ii In thatcontext, the emergence ofNortheastcuisin.es, cookbooks,and popular occupies a distinctplace in the realm of flavours and taste. What is the smell write-\J.ps·are important.developm,_ents.Among
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