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Amateur Dramatic Society Views from the Hill a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area

20 pages of local stories and pictures 2 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 3 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area

Introduction

I began this project knowing very little about Llanymynech and the area. After almost six months fairly intensive research, I know more, but realize I have only begun to discover the history and stories of the area.

Most people assured me there was very little history in the village – Caratacus’ last stand was very unlikely. Offa’s Dyke was now invisible. The canals, the quarry, and the railways were now defunct.

But instead of very little history I found evidence of a long and fascinating past, in this region of mineral wealth on the border between the mountains and the plains.

Perhaps every village in the country has a fertile history, once you begin to look for it. And perhaps some places have one ABOVE: Looking north towards event, a battle, or a building, that has Llanymynech Llanymynech Hill. great significance. But I doubt that Below:The same view today. anywhere has a longer and richer past then and now than Llanymynech.

Neil Rhodes [email protected]

CONTENTS 3 Then and Now 4&5 People and Characters 6&7 Industrial heritage 8&9 Who lived where 10,11,12 Transport 13 The village in the 19th century 14 Then and Now pictures 15 Views from Llanymynech Hill 16 Tale of an angry giant 17&18 People and Places 4 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 5 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area People and characters The local lad whose How Darwin skills made history

RICHARD Roberts was born on April 22nd 1789. It seems got his east likely he was born at the gate house that stood on the north side of the canal bridge, on the side, although the canal was built a few years after his birth. The family tomb stone states that he was born at . His moth- and west er was from , and his father from Llwyntidman. He spent a short time at the village school, then kept in a room in the Church (an account says the school was kept in a room in the belfry of the Church, but from a contemporary drawing the old Church had only a small tower). When he Richard Roberts: in a muddle was 10 it is said he made his mother a spinning made his mother wheel inlaid with mother of pearl, which so a spinning wheel impressed the quarry men of Llanymynech when he was 10. CHARLES Darwin was born in in Hill that they collected enough money to 1809. At Cambridge he studied various subjects, purchase him a tool chest. He worked at the particularly geology, and did field work in quarry, and eventually obtained a position as a Shropshire and in the summer of 1831. pattern maker at Bradley Iron works in People and characters He came to Llanymynech with the 1795 map made under John Wilkinson. by Robert Baugh and John Evans, and coloured it in to motive builders, tool makers, and general Bridge. show the geological state of the area. Gasometers machinists. He patented some improvements in He also improved the construction and steam engines. propelling of twin screw boats. His greatest He wrote in his notebooks that Llanymynech was 16 He started his own business in 1816, where Then it is said he invented the Jacquard achievement was the self acting mule, which miles east of Shrewsbury – of course, it is west of he did mechanical work and screw cutting. He machine. However, it seems clear that M considerably improved the productivity of the Darwin Shrewsbury. erected gasometers for Manchester, and Jacquard invented the Jacquard machine, which and his On his return home in August he received the letter offering invented a gas meter. He took out his first was a punching machine for making patterns in cotton mills. He also made and donated the eldest him the position of naturalist on the HMS Beagle’s voyage round patents in 1822, for machinery for weaving cloth. It is possible that Richard Roberts altered Turret clock on Llanymynech church. child in the world. That voyage had a huge influence on his later theorizing. plain and figured cloths, and for certain the machine, so that it could punch holes in He died on the 11th of March 1864, at the age 1842 It is possible he also came to Llanymynech on other dates, 1836, 37, improvements in the construction of looms. metal plates. Whatever it was called, his inven- of 75, and was buried in Kensal Green ceme- 38, or 42, when he did field work in Shropshire. The next year his firm was established as loco- tion was used to punch the plates of the Menai tery..

How Llanymynech was seen in 1908 Clash with the mighty Romans WHEN the Romans invaded Britain in AD 43, many Britons acknowledged the power Caractacus’s Last Stand Pen portrait of the village, from of the Roman Empire. But Caradog (Caratacus) king of the Llanymynech Hill. In 1991 Professor Jones excavated at Catavellauni tribe, continued to fight the The site chosen had to enjoy accessibility Abertanat, and discovered a number of archae- Romans. He had provided the pretext for the from lowland Britain, as well as possible ological features surviving in section. “Notable escape routes into Snowdonia and north- invasion by invading the territories of the amongst these was a clay filled V shaped ditch wards, where Caradog fled after the battle, the Almanac Atrebates, whose king, Verica, fled to Rome forming the northern defences of a camp, the only to be surrendered to Rome by Queen interior of which contained a series of features and appealed for help. Cartamandua. According to Tacitus, there was LLANYMYNECH is a village and parish quantity of limestone is dug annually, Llanymynech Hill. An immense camp at also visible in section. Amongst these the most Caradog moved north and west as the a that the Roman army crossed, and the remarkable was a field-oven...” in the counties of Montgomery and Salop, some of which is burnt into lime; small Clawdd Coch is believed by some anti- Roman army settled Britain as far as the Fosse site was defended at its weakest points by a The Roman timbered gateway was recon- the Welsh portion, consisting of the town- portions of copper ore are also found. quaries to be the site of Mediolanum, Way, the great Roman road running from rampart. structed and opened in 1991. It seems the camp ship of Carreghofa, being in the hundred The great hill called “Llanymynech,” in where once were quartered the ambitious Exeter to Lincoln. The hillfort had to be large to accommodate was probably sited to defend the river crossing, and petty sessional division of Deytheur, this parish, rises to a height of nearly 900 legions of Rome [It is now known that With the help of the Silures in the south-east the huge British army, and Llanymynech Hill and if there was a siege on Llanymynech Hill, and Union and County Court district of feet, and is celebrated for the beautiful and there was no Roman town at Clawdd and the Ordovices in the north, Caradog made is one of the largest in the country at 58.4 would have been used to prevent supplies . extensive views obtained from its summit. Coch]. life on the frontier unpleasant. The Romans had hectares. reaching the fort. The village consists of four streets in the At its base flow the Tanat and About a mile from the village is the site little choice but to deal with the troublesome form of a cross, which are respectively the Vyrnwy, the later being crossed in the of Carreghofa Castle, built by Earl Robert tribes. ROBERT Baugh was born in 1748. He engraved several maps of All we know about Caradog’s last stand Robert high roads to (6 miles), village by a handsome stone bridge of de Belesme, and destroyed by Shropshire and . He was born at , and was (9), Shrewsbury (16), and three arches. Gwenwynwyn towards the close of the comes from a passage by the historian Tacitus. Baugh and Llanfyllin (9). Offa’s Dyke, the historical boundary line twelfth century, when its owner, Owen Professor Barri Jones, who lived in the area, for many years parish clerk of Llanymynech. Robert Baugh, and The country around is hilly and roman- between and Wales, may be Vaughn, Lord of Mechain Iscoed, was surmised that of all the possible places, which John John Evans of Llwynygroes, prepared the large map of North Wales tic, and abound with minerals; a large traced at some distance along cruelly put to death. includes the Breiddyn, three Caradocs, Evans engraved by Robert Baugh. and old Oswestry, the most likely was 6 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 7 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area Our stone in great demand Hammering out a living THERE was a great demand for lime- stone in Shropshire and Limestone Burning Montgomeryshire, because of the acidic soils, especially in the Severn and kiln converted it to calcium oxide, or quick- thought local people called ‘Tana Manah’. He Vyrnwy flood plain. It had other uses, lime. Most lime kilns were built into the sides saw a great number of lime kilns. in Llanymynech quarry particularly as a constituent of mortar in of hills, for the ease of loading. The shape of the By the end of the 19th century traditional building, and as a flux in the making of kiln was usually two cones joined base to base, lime burners were facing increased competi- tapering towards the top and the bottom. tion from the manufacture of Portland cement iron. Limestone and coal were poured in from the as a building material. Also, after 1870, iron The Quarry A turnpike road was built in the 1770s from top, to rest on iron fire bars. Every 24 hours a making in Shropshire and Burlton, on the Shrewsbury to Ellesmere fire bar would be withdrawn, allowing a quan- declined rapidly. In the 1860s the number of road, to Llanymynech, via . The tity of burnt lime to fall into the ash pit at the rockmen working in Llanymynech fell from 45 IT IS believed the quarry opened in 1756, mainly for Montgomeryshire and Ellesmere canals were bottom of the kiln. The process was continu- to 33, and down to 21 by 1881. In Pant the limestone to be used to improve the land, which, in used to take limestone from Llanymynech ous, although small kilns would only be oper- number fell from 43 to 11 during the 1870s. the flood plain of the Severn and Vyrnwy, was very south to the farms of the upper Severn valley, ated when they were needed. The Hoffman kiln at Llanymynech was built and east to the ironworks at , Limestone burning at Llanymynech proba- after 1900, probably as an attempt by the acidic. and Madeley. bly began well before the 16th century. The owners to develop a better product, as the The technique used was first to clear the top soil, then drill Limestone rock is mainly composed of Reverend Richard Pococke, travelling from market for limestone for use in ironworks was down with a drill rod, a long piece of metal with a screw thread calcium carbonate. Burning limestone in a Oswestry to Welshpool, noticed a hill which he declining. It was shut down only 14 years later. on it, another man hitting the top of the rod with a maul, a large metal hammer with a handle made from hazel, to dampen the blows. Once they’d drilled down between 6 to 10 feet, the next hole would be excavated. Each hole was filled with gunpowder, fuses were attached and lit, and the two men would find shelter. Once ‘Treasures’ beneath the hill a face had been created, there were levels, or terraces, and the men would climb down ropes to reach their level, and climb up while waiting for the detonation. The stone had to be no smaller than 6 inches across, or it would Mining in Llanymynech be too small for the kilns. The stones were loaded into trucks by the men, and pushed by them (although later ponies were used) APART from being quarried for limestone, The hillfort dates from the Bronze Age, and to the top of the incline plane, where the trucks were attached to Llanymynech Hill was once extensively excavations have revealed that copper smelt- the gin wheel and lowered to the canal quays or the kilns. Many mined for copper, lead, zinc and silver. ing took place here at that time. farms took the unburnt stone, having their own kilns. The stone, Mine entrances and spoil heaps are visible Copper is one of the main components of once burnt, was put on the fields, the action of rain and frost on the golf course. The main mining entrance bronze and it would have been visible on the disintegrating the rock, so that the farmers could rake the lime is called The Ogof, the Welsh for cave, and hill as a green stain in the rock. and spread it over the land. this could be one of the earliest sites of mining Copper was mined here in surface pits, and in Britain. later in small underground passages. Blinded by a blast John Roberts, a stone- A PANT quarryman blinded breaker on the lime- by an explosion lived in a rail- Roman Mining: The way carriage that had been stone quarries’ wharf turned into a house. He weaved at Llanymynech, about baskets for a living, and his son led him around as he sold his the turn of the century. Rope making firesetting technique baskets. THE mining technique called firesetting setting and picking, although they used iron IN the last half of the 19th century, experiments occurring within 16 minutes. It was estimated burst from the base to the summit and poured involved lighting a fire against the rock, picks and wooden shovels with iron tips. were made by the owners of the limestone quar- that about 8 or 9000 tons of rock was brought down on to the floor of the quarry, a tremor in a meadow causing it to expand with the heat. Copper ore was placed in small wicker ries to allow them to obtain a stone in sufficient down, and half that amount loosened. passing through the rock where people were baskets and dragged out along the low quantities so they could compete with the quar- The next experiment was intended to make standing. Some of the debris fell at a great THE first rope walk in Llanymynech When water was thrown against it, the ry owners of Staffordshire. They wanted to offer use of electricity. A level was driven into the distance. Part of the tramway bridge on the passages. was in a meadow through which the rock suddenly contracted and split, and the fluxing stone to iron masters at a lower rock a few yards above the base, to a distance of Oswestry Road was destroyed, and some frag- Llanfyllin railway line was later built. primitive antler and bone picks would It is possible that slaves were imprisoned price, which they could not with the old method 12 yards. At the end of the level, a cross level ments of powder were carried a mile away. The The rope walk was moved to a field prise open cracks in the rock. in the mine, although the discovery of of drilling holes and blasting on a small scale. was driven to the right and to the left. At equal noise of the explosion was heard at Welshpool, Roman coins and skeletons do not prove next to the railway station. The rope Deep trenches would have been dug, but The first experiment took place on the 17th of distances small shafts were sunk in that level, ten miles away. No more similar experiments this. It is unlikely that slave miners would be and twine manufacturer was Joseph when the deposit became too deep it had to September, 1867. A shaft was sunk at a distance until the base of the rock was reached. were carried out on the Hill. able to accumulate money, nor would dead of 12 yards from the edge of the face of the rock Chambers were cut at the bottom of these shafts Later that year Thomas Savin went bankrupt. Powell of Chester, though there was be followed underground. Small hand people be buried in a working mine where to a depth of 60 feet. From the bottom of this and a total of six and a half tons of blasting He had financed the development of the another rope maker at Pant. picked passages have been found in and near to the Ogof, and part of a deer antler, they could spread disease. The burials found shaft, a chamber, 7 feet long, 5 feet wide, and 4 powder were placed in the chambers. Two , and developed the neo The most well-known rope maker of feet high, was cut. One and a half tons of powerful electrical batteries were used so that Gothic hotel on the sea front at . possibly a broken pick, was found in one. in the Ogof probably took place when the Llanymynech was Mr John Jeffreys, workings were abandoned. powder was placed in the chamber, and to it the three charges could explode simultaneous- Llanymynech Quarry was, however, the project The Romans developed the copper mining three fuses were attached. Men were stationed ly. On the 11th of March 1868, a large crowd of which caused his downfall, leaving him debts of who lived along the Wern. His father, A great many Roman artefacts have been industry by engineering the workings in a at various points along the Hill with signals, people gathered to witness the explosion. The £3.5 million, over £100 million in today’s terms, also called John Jeffreys, was the last more logical pattern. found in the mine including, in 1965, a hoard weaver in Llanymynech. and traffic was stopped along the adjoining owner, Mr Savin, gave the final signal. The and one of the biggest business collapses of the Mining was basically the same, with fire- of silver coins found by some schoolboys. roads. The firing signal was given, the explosion explosion was instantaneous. The rock was 19th Century. 8 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 9 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area Wakes and festivals in Llanymynech Who lived where Kelly’s Directory of Shropshire 1891 Kelly’s Directory of

PRIVATE RESIDENTS Baugh Miss Bishton Mrs Davies Mrs Evans Shropshire 1929 The Mayor in a wheelbarrow David Griffiths Miss Johnson William Henry (H. M. Assistant Inspector of Schools) Jones Rev. Llewelyn Wynne M.A. The Rectory PRIVATE RESIDENTS Brimelow Jones Rev. Richard (Welsh Presbyterian), The New House Jones The Joshua David, Glanvirnew Bromley their friends met at the Lion hotel, when a wheelbarrow to the main farm houses, and THE wake Sunday in the parish was the Misses Manning Leonard Archibald M.B. The Hollies Moon Richard Mrs. Elizh. C. The Laurels Bromley ball was held until the early hours of the first Sunday after February 5th. Crowds provided with beer. Normandale Rev. Jn. Wm. (Prim. Meth) Temple Rev. Robert M.A. Richard. Hafod Davies Mrs. following morning. flocked to the village, mainly to go to the By the end of the tour everyone was (H.M. Inspector of Schools), Llwynygroes Hall Elizabeth. Fulshaw Evans R.W. public houses and spend their time in There was another day of amusement on drunk, the mayor usually ending in the School. Llanymynech Jackson Miss the Thursday after. This was the day when middle of the large puddle which had COMMERCIAL. Amelia Mrs.), farmer Baugh Edward, Mary, The Gardd Johnson Thomas drinking and fighting. the “mayor” was elected. The mayor was grocer Bromley Richard, farmer, Lower house Davies E. Fox & Co. Henry, The Hollies Jones Charles Football was played in the churchyard, decked in ribbons, his face painted red or collected in front of the Dolphin inn. grocers Davies Evan, blacksmith Davies Jane (Mrs), shopkeeper Owen. Vron Vyrnwy Jones Mrs. Mary after the services were over. The festivities black, and a huge cabbage suspended on his An old man, Isaac Dykes, was frequently Davies John Walter, commission agent Deam Thomas, painter, Post Hannah, Fyrnwy bank Moon Miss were again carried out on Wake Tuesday in back, with its head downwards. A quart pot elected. By the late 18th century the wakes Office Ethelston William, miller (water) & farmer, Llwyntidman Morfydd, Pen-y-voel house O’Conor the same week. In the evening farmers and was put in his hand, and he was carried in a had fallen into disuse. Evans E, & Sons, grocers Evans John & Sons, nurserymen and Hy. Stratford, The Willows Poole- florists Harris John, tailor Jeffreys John Morris, rope maker Rev. John Prytherch M.A. BELOW: The Dolphin Inn... the scene of much Jeffreys John. linen manufacturer Jones Edward, saddler & harness (rector), The Rectory Randles John Who lived where drinking on the village’s wakes days. maker Jones Edward, farmer, Plascerig Jones John, shoe maker Frederick. Bronwylfa Roberts Capt. Jones John, butcher Jones William, beer retailer Lloyd George, Hy. Fras. Belwood Symond Rev. butcher Lloyd Richard, farmer, Carreghofa Manning Leonard Oscar S. B.A. Vernon Mrs. I.C.W. Bagshaw’s Directory of 1851 Archibald M.B. surgeon, The Hollies Harriet, (Mrs.), grocer Blighty Williams Mrs. Llwyn-y-groes &c Owen Robt. Cross Guns P.H. Llwyntidman Owen William, beer COMMERCIAL Marked thus o farm Those marked 1 reside at Llanytidman, 2 at Treprenal. retailer Phillips William, Dolphin inn Pitt Alfred, timber dealer Poole Charles, butcher Price Edward, shopkeeper Pugh Francis, 150 acres or over. Barraclough Jn. & Son. clog solemakers. Rock view o 2 Asterley Thomas, farmer Asterley William Lloyd, Esq tailor Randles John, farmer, Elm Tree farm Richards Richard, Bradford Arms P.H. & malster Roberts Catherine Elizabeth (Miss), Bromley Rd. N farmer. Lower ho. Batterbee Charles, brazier, plumber, painter, and beer- ladies’ school Roberts Emma (Mrs.), Lion hotel Roberts Wm. Shoe Brown Chas. blacksmith Bryan house keeper Baugh Margaret, victualler Cross Keys maker Llwyntidman Rogers William, farmer, Llwyntidman Savin & Thomas. Farmer, Plascerrig Capper 1 Botheil Mary, farmer Bower William, wool agent Co. Limited (F. Dunford, manager), lime & limestone works: offices, Chas. Rowland, garage Clarke Wm- 2 Broughton Richard Nightingale, woolstapler and malt- Soames & Co. Cross Keys hotel (James Compton, manager) shopkeeper Cross Keys Hotel (John Edward Lewis. Proprietor); family & ster, Llwynygroes hall Broughton and Asterley, grocers, Thomas John, Malster Thomas Eliza (Mrs.) farmer, Treprenal Ward commercial hotel; charabanc parties drapers, and general dealers Davies Mrs, gentlewoman Edward Walter, farmer, Llwyntidman catered for; fishing, golfing, tennis; 1 Davies John, farmer and miller Dovaston Edward terms moderate. Day Wm. Ernest. Milward, surgeon Chemist & druggist Ethelston Ernest, 1 Dyke Issac, farmer Ellis Letia, tailor and draper miller (water) Llwyntidman Evans 1 Evans John, farmer, gardener, and rate collector Eliz. Ashford (Mrs.), farmer, Griffiths Richard, blacksmith Griffiths Richard, draper How it looked in 1752 Beechfield Fox-Davies Edwyn & Son, and grocer grocers &c Fox-Davies Frank, grocer 1 Griffiths Jn., quarry master Gwynne George, cooper Frank John Wallace, farmer, Gwynne George, shoemaker Hackett John, tallow chander Treprenal (letters through Oswestry) Gruar David, farmer Humphreys Rt. 1 Harris Geo., quarry master Farmer Jones Arth. & Geo, saddlers o 1 Harrison John, farmer Hughes Edward, shoemaker Jones Rt. Farmer, Llwyntidman hall 1 Humphreys James, victualler, Cross Guns Jeffreys John, Kynaston Wm, pig dealer, Greenfields weaver Jones Edward, saddler and harness maker o Lewis Ernest, farmer, Llwyntidman 1 Jones Thomas, farmer Leak Francis, toll collector Lloyd A winner in the Lewis Harriet (Mrs.), farmer, Elm John, farmer, timber merchant, builder, and vict., Lion Inn Tree Lewis Mary (Mrs.) shopkeeper, Lloyd Richard, vict., Dolpin Luxmoore Rev. John, the Station Road Lloyd John Rectory Morgan Edward, saddler and dealer Morris John, Grand National Harvey,farmer, Carreghofa Lloyd Mar Emily (Mrs.), butcher Marsh shoemaker Parkins Charles, shoemaker Poole Mrs., gentle- William Wallace, Lion hotel Morris woman Llanymynech Races Wm. farmer O’Conor Henry Stratford 1 Price Elizabeth, farmer Price Hugh, seedsman L.R.C.P. & L.R.C.S. Edin., L.R.F.P. & S. 1 PryceWilliam, gentleman, Holly Bush Pugh Henry, seeds- THERE was a flat race in Llanymynech in 1799, though it Glas. surgeon, The Willows Owen man and druggist Pugh James Owen, grocer and draper was infrequent in the years after. The first steeplechase George, cowkeeper, Owen Wm. shop- Ratcliffe Samuel, farmer Richards Richard, farmer, malt- was probably in 1886, at Pentref Farm, and continued keeper Pearson Jn. Michael, grocer ster, and vicl, Bradford Arms every year until 1889. In 1890 the course used was at Porthywaen Lime Co. Limited, quar- 1 Roberts William, gentleman, Prospect cottage Rodgers Llwynygroes, and that continued, with occasional lapses, ry owners Pryce Hugh. shopkeeper Edward, farmer and sometimes at , until 1910. Pugh Francis & Son. drapers Richards Richard (Mrs.), Bradford 1 Savage Elizabeth, farmer In 1922 the racing was revived at Llwynygroes, and Arms P.H. Savage Edwd. cowkeeper continued until the outbreak of the second World War. In 2 Sheldon Wm., gentleman Thomas Thomas, farmer A detail from John Evans’ map of Shropshire, before the railways, canal, or Thomas Wm. Farmer, Carreghofa Thomas Robert, schoolmaster and parish clerk Watson 1925 Tipperary Tim was second in the Llanymynech bridge over the Vyrnwy at Llanymynech. If correct, the Tanat seems to divert Tomlinson Thomas, Dolphin inn Miss, post office Whitticose Mary, gentlewoman Williams Optional Selling Steeplechase – but three years later the from the Vyrnwy at Newbridge, about two miles downstream of its present Vernon Leveson Geo. garage Wall Sarah, schoolmistress horse won the Grand National, although only because it course. The thick line going north/south represents Offa’s Dyke, but is wild- Robert John, builder was one of two horses still standing, and the other fell. ly inaccurate around Llanymynech Hill. 10 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 11 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area Rise and fall of our railway Railway Chronology: Transport

15/01/1860: Oswestry to Pool Quay opened 25/07/1864: Cambrian Railways formed 13/08/1866: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech opened 13/08/1866: Llanymynech to opened 21/12/1866: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech closed. Llanymynech to Nantmawr closed 12/1868: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech opened. Llanymynech to Nantmawr opened 18/04/1870: Llanymynech to Llanyblodwell opened 21/06/1871: to opened 20/06/1880: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech closed. Llanymynech to Nantmawr closed, Kinnerley to Criggion closed 01/06/1881: Llanymynech to Nantmawr opened (by the Cambrian) 13/04/1911: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech opened 05/01/1912: Kinnerley to Criggion opened 10/1932: Kinnerley to Criggion closed 06/11/1933: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech closed 1939: Wern Junction to Blodwell Junction abandoned 01/06/1941: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech opened by the War Department 26/02/1960: Shrewsbury (Abbey) to Llanymynech closed 18/01/1965: Llanymynech to Llanfyllin closed. Oswestry to Junction closed 15/02/1992: Llanddu Junction to Nantmawr closed ‘Excessive speed’ to blame

LEFT: A picture which appeared in a recent edition of the Shropshire Star, contributed by Stan Turner of Shrewsbury shows the end of an era... the arrival of the last train from Shrewsbury on The Potts – The Shropshire & Montgomeryshire Light Railway. Crowds lined the bridge and platform to witness the historic moment. Vicar of Criggion gets all steamed up! THIS is a letter from the vicar of Criggion, I wish to know whether passengers can be thus trusting that these matters may be inquired into frequent letters to the governors of Queen Robert Brock, complaining about the state of treated and deceived - for the last train I caught and remedied. Anne’s Bounty, who held the parish church the Criggion branch of the Shropshire & about a fortnight ago I was incarcerated in a I am your obedient servant, funds, asking for money to be paid him more Montgomery Railway: carriage as I have hitherto been. often, and for credit. I have had occasion to use the railway for my wife R. Brock He became bankrupt in 1912, which only 23rd November 1912 and daughters and friends from , and of Vicar of Criggion made him beg for more money from church course I cannot subject them to such risk & commissioners. Sir, I booked today my fare by the 3.57 train from barbarous treatment. If they cannot or will not Robert Brock was ordained in South Africa by In 1918 he sent his wife to London to plead his THERE was an accident at Wern Junction (near Carreghofa School) on 7 August Abbey Gate station to Criggion on the Shropshire serve proper accommodation through the journey, a bishop who had been excommunicated for case, but she too was refused, even though she 1908. A livestock train of Great Central stock was derailed as it left the Nantmawr & Montgomery Rly. I rode to Kinnerley Junction they should not be allowed to advertise it - there heresy. His first wife was said by the locals of said she was stranded without the train fare line to join the new spur to Llanfyllin, just past the bridge under the canal. The by a properly equipped train. were carriages at the Station (Kinnerley), and as an Criggion to have been eaten by cannibals in home. engine fell on its side, and the track was badly damaged. At the inquiry excessive Proceeding by the branch to Criggion, I was put engine ran - a carriage could and should have been Africa. The secretary of the governors wrote: “Mr speed was blamed. with another man and two women into the back on the back. When his second wife died he married the Brock is not a very estimable old man, I fear, part of an engine with only a screen between us and Another matter of which I have complained and Criggion schoolmistress, who had also been and not very formidable. He regularly begs to In the year after, a man was knocked down by a train near Llanymynech. A the fire - no roof, and the sparks and smuts falling which the Supt. has promised to have remedied is courted by his son. have advances against the warrants coming verdict of suicide was recorded, and the directors asked the general manager to all over us - one spark nearly got into my eye - with the hollow appropriately termed a ditch by one of Throughout the years he was Vicar of due to him, sometimes by letter, sometimes in report on the question of trespass. danger of being blinded - my clothes too injured by the officials, formed by sinking the rails, or making Criggion, 1900 to his death in 1926, he had person, and not long ago by sending his wife. the same. proper approaches to the crossing to my church - constant financial problems, and wrote He never gets them.” 12 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 13 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area

A riderless 1 Near Elm Tree Farm stood a tollbar, and next to it a sentry box horse at for the keeper. The village in the The old man who looked after Ghostly goings-on full gallop the bar was often the butt of prac- tical jokes, once being so fright- with great ened by some youths he knelt BEFORE the bridge was built at down and began to pray. Llanymynech the ford, and the heavi- River crossings clots of 19th century ly wooded road either side, was meant to be haunted by a white horse. blood on its 2 Between there and the Post Office stood a Old buildings of Llanymynech, according to The horse, bridled and saddled but rider- thatched cottage, partly of timber, and near that a John Fewtrell, writing in the Montgomeryshire less, galloped furiously along the road, and on shoulders pond. its shoulders it had great blood clots. On the Llansantffraid side of the Dolphin pub Collections in the 1870s. In 1903 there was a story in Bye-Gones, was a smithy, heavy and tumble down. which used to appear in the Oswestry The Dolphin was once known as the Holly Bush 3 Ty Croes was 5 To the north of the village, on the far side of the Advertizer, about a girl who rode back from Inn, apparently because the proprietor used to once the Corner canal, was the Sun Inn, originally a butcher’s shop. Oswestry market one Wednesday, hurrying to place a barrel of beer for sale under a holly bush, Shop, although Opposite were two small thatched cottages, at the cross the ford before dark. She had great diffi- because a license was not then required. The name before that it side of one a smithy, and by that the Gate house, ‘Dolphin’ is a corruption of the word ‘Godolphin’, culty persuading her horse to enter the water, was a small ‘by- which in the 1870s remained as it was at least 80 the family who once owned the inn. but once out and smelling home it set off at a tack’, or farm. years before. Richard Roberts was born in this house. canter. At that moment she heard behind her the sound of furious galloping. As she looked round she saw coming closer the outstretched head and neck of a white horse. As she 6 On the south side of the canal were a shop reached the end of the wood the sound and two cottages, and before that there were stopped, but her horse raced on to her home. two very old cottages. One had a cellar On April 23, 1825, Betsy Elliot, who was 15 kitchen and the other was a small shop. years old, was crossing the by 5 Next to these was a large building with the the ferry, during the floods, and the boat over- date 1719. The lower part was a shop. Next turned. Betsy and the boatman’s wife were 6 were some stables, and over them a granary. killed. Canal chronology Between these and the Cross Keys hotel was a cottage and workshop. Two years later, in 1827, the road bridge to 3 7 Welshpool was built. 23/10/1792 Meeting held at Welshpool to support a proposal to extend the Llanymynech Queen Victoria crossed the bridge in 1832, branch of the proposed as far as Welshpool. 2 8 9 on her way to Oswestry. She stayed at the Lion 18/10/1793 Meeting agreed to continue the line to Newtown; decision to form a separate 1 7 The old Cross Keys hotel was not built as Hotel for a short time (not overnight). 4 company independent of the Ellesmere Canal. near to the road as the present one. It was Quarrymen fired a salvo in celebration. 10 thatched with a jutting gable. The front part A crowd had assembled for the laying of the 1794 to 1797 26 km length from Carreghofa to Garthmyl, and the 3 km branch, was surrounded by wooden palings. Most of foundation stone of St Agatha’s Church in constructed the inn was rebuilt about 1820, and several 1843. Miss Sarah Tannatt and her three sisters 1796 The Ellesmere Canal completed from Welsh Frankton to Carreghofa large rooms were added. In the 19th century were riding along the road from Llandysilio 18/07/1794 John Dadford appointed Engineer to the Montgomeryshire Canal the boundary between Shropshire and when there was a sudden thunderstorm. Montgomeryshire, and between England Sarah’s ‘spirited’ horse took fright and 09/1796 John Dadford resigns as Engineer to the Montgomeryshire Canal and Wales, passed along the foundations of dashed off in the direction of the river bridge. 1815-1821 12 km Garthmyl to Newtown built. the front walls of the houses to the north of The horse knocked down a woman who was 1823 George W Buck rebuilds the Vyrnwy aqueduct. the hotel. It then passed through the centre walking across, and swerved against the right of the smoke room of the hotel. According to 1880s More repairs on the Vyrnwy aqueduct. side of the bridge, just above the second arch. John Fewtrell, an inquest was held in the inn. Sarah was thrown over the parapet into the 1892 Major work on the Vyrnwy aqueduct. After the jury had been sworn in, and the river and carried down the swollen river, and 05/02/1936 Breach in the canal about 1 mile south of Welsh Frankton. inquest began, someone discovered that the drowned, in her heavy riding habit. 07/1980 Williams Bridge demolished. 4 Opposite Ty Croes there was a 10 The Lion Hotel was the jury and coroner was sitting in large field (where Llanymynech Red Lion Inn, until the middle Montgomeryshire, but the death had taken garage is now) and in the corner a of the 19th century. The front place in Shropshire. Tramways wooden building known as the part was added by the propri- At the back of the Cross Keys hotel was Market Hall. Articles were placed etor and owner, the late Mr the ‘well house’ yard, a corruption from there for shelter and sale on fair Lloyd, in the 19th century. wool house. It had a large room used for the Line started out as a road days. Near this was a large slough, There was a set of stocks by storing and stapling of wool. or cesspit, which seems to have Next to that was a garden and then a malt THE first record of a railway at Llanymynech seems to be in the roadside, just outside the been an open sewer for the village. house. 1809 when a line was mentioned in the rent book of the churchyard. People confined The field seemed to be the usual in them were usually those Bradford estate. place for fights, the losers being In 1820 a man was killed at the “Old Rail Road Rock” when found in a state of drunken- thrown into the slough. Fewtrell ness by the constable. boarding in a quarry. That Tramway was probably the line says, “So low were the morals of which ran down to the canal along what is now a distinctive- some of the inhabitants, that a man ly narrow plot in which stands the house called Rock Cottage. has been known to roll himself into 8 Opposite the malt house was a shop and three 9 Before the houses of Bradford Row were built It seems this Tramway may have started as a public road. It the centre of it for a small quantity cottages. Before that was a refuse pool, similar to there was a series of barns, one section of which was was derelict in 1838, but remained in the occupation of the of beer, a circumstance scarcely to the slough. a malthouse. The houses, until fairly recently, were Carreghofa Lime Rock Company. be credited in these days”. Further along the road was a building with a shops. There were at least five inclined planes at Llanymynech The rector managed to arrange slaughterhouse, and a thatched and dilapidated The Bradford Arms used to be called ‘The Old Hill. Since the traffic was downhill, they would act on gravity, for the slough to be drained, and a cottage. It was condemned, but the tenant Coach’, when coaches went between Oswestry and the weight of the stones in the truck going down pulling sewer to be constructed through the refused to leave, so the roof was taken off to Welshpool. empty trucks going up. village, terminating in the river. force the tenant to leave. Next to it was a smithy, and a cottage. 14 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 15 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area

Ruabon Mtn (1678 ft) 15 miles

Bickerton Hill Myrydd y Bryn (729 ft) 25 miles (1095 ft) 4 miles N

Gyrn Moelfre (1715 ft) 7 miles

Bury Walls Fort Views from (630 ft) 20 miles Cefn y Coed (746 ft) 4 miles Grins Hill Llanymynech Hill (630 ft) 16 miles WE

Nescliffe Hill Cae Afon (492 ft) 8 miles (2213 ft) 28 miles The Wrekin (1335 ft) 8 miles ABOVE: Looking south... in the days when it Allt y Main Brown Clee Llanymynech was safe to stand in the middle of the road! (1790 ft) 30 miles Below:The same view today. (1169 ft) 7.5 miles then and now Pontesford Hill Bryn (1047 ft) 14 miles (541 ft) 2 miles S Stiperstones (1731 ft) 16 miles Yr Allt (748 ft) 7 miles Rodney’s Pillar (1338 ft) 5 miles Name Meanings and Nicknames

Llanymynech means place of the monks, local histo- Welsh name occurring throughout Wales (eg rians now believe, not of the miners, as was once Rhostrehwfa on - the rough land of Hwfa's thought. The first written record of the place name is township). Llanemeneych in 1254. The plural of monk in Welsh is mynaich. There are lots of such names in the area: apparently derives from the Latin ‘pagensis’, Tirmynach (monks land) near Pool Quay, or country dwellers. ‘Pagan’ also derives from this (Abbots land) in the same area. word. monastery was established in the 12 century. Pen-y-Foel means top of the bare hill. Vyrnwy, or properly Efyrnwy, has one of two likely meanings: either it derives from the A CORRESPONDENT to ‘Bye-Gones Relating to (Welsh Hafren), as a tributary; or it is named after Wales and the Border Counties (Sept 3rd 1873)’ the Goddess of the efwr, or yew tree. Tanat means mentioned that the nickname for Llanymynech the fiery one, or possibly the stream that is bright people was ‘Llanymynech Cut Tails’. with fire. Apparently it used to be very common many years ago to say: “Take care how you go through Carreghofa, or Carreghwfa (the correct Welsh Llanymynech or you will have your tail cut!” though spelling) means Hwfa's rock. Hwfa is a medieval it’s unclear what exactly was meant by that. 16 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 17 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area Tale of an angry giant A castle to protect and a clever cobbler... the mine ALTHOUGH geologists say that the up a huge amount of earth, and set off giant asked him how far it was to the town of Wrekin consists of pre Cambrian rock, upstream determined to dam the river and Shrewsbury. AFTER the Romans left, the next period drown the town of Shrewsbury and all its The cobbler, though frightened by the giant, of activity of mining on the Hill was in it is well-known that the hill was made people. realised that he had to keep his wits about him, the 12th century. by a giant. It was a hot day, and he was tired and fed up and took off the sack of old shoes from his back Some fishermen from Shrewsbury had sailed King Richard I went to the Crusades and and emptied them onto the road. down the Severn to look for eels. When they was captured in 1193 on his return. The giant decided he couldn’t “I’ll tell you how far it is to Shrewsbury,” he reached the Channel, they discovered a The Bishop of Salisbury, Hubert huge eel trap, and helped themselves to the eels walk that far, and dumped his said. “I set out from there two months ago, and Walter, had accompanied Richard to from inside. I’ve worn out all these shoes to reach here.” Palestine and returned to England as As they rowed away a huge giant appeared earth beside the river, and that The giant decided he couldn’t walk that far, one of the commissioners to raise the in the distance, shouting at them to return his became the Wrekin. and dumped his earth beside the river, and that required £100,000 for his ransom. eels. Realising they were far enough away to became the Wrekin. He heard of the discovery of silver at the escape, they shouted back that they were men He scraped his shoes off on the back of his Carreghwfa Mine on Llanymynech after several hours walking. He didn’t realise spade, and that became the little hill beside the Hill, and decided to develop the mine Day's Shop, which was next to the present corner shop. of Shrewsbury and would not return anything. that Shrewsbury was around the next bend in The giant spent several weeks in festering the river, when he came across a cobbler. The Wrekin called the Ercall, and he walked back and re-open the mint at Shrewsbury to anger. Eventually, he lifted his spade, and dug home. refine the silver and make it into coins. To protect the mine, the nearby castle at Carreghwfa was repaired and provid- ed with a garrison of troops. However, Story of the rock silver only occurs in this country in the The second of three churches lead mineral galena, from which it can be refined in small quantities during THE present church is thought to be the third on the site. The first under the floor by the altar. smelting. church was probably built of wood, and consequently there are no The church is built in the Normanesque style. It is constructed of So despite the work that was carried out remains. local limestone, apart from the arches and ornamental portions, between 1194-95, very little silver was beneath our feet The second (pictured here) was built in 1272 to 1307, of stone. It which are terracotta, possibly fired at . The cost of the new refined from the mine and the whole was a double building with at the west end a turret with two bells. church was £2000, most of which was raised by private subscrip- venture made a net loss. There were three entrances, two on the south side and the third on tions. BETWEEN 290 and 355 million years ago, continues northwards to the Eglwyseg escarp- the north side. The clock was made and given to the Parish of Llanymynech by A documentary source mentions activity there was a warm and shallow tropical sea ment near Llangollen. The strata lies on folded By the 1840s the church was in a poor state of repair. It was Richard Roberts in 1844. A condition of his giving the clock was that at Llanymynech: a grant of land to the which bordered a peninsula of land to the Ordovician and Silurian rocks, and is divided demolished in 1843 and on Ascension Day, 25 May 1843 the foun- Cistercian Monastery of Strata one face should be visible from the south. into four distinct layers: at the bottom, basal dation stone of the present church was laid by Lord Dungannon. Marcella in 1198 included rights quarry where he had worked, so that Llanymynech Hill consists of the shales, which are up to 30 m thick; lower lime- The site of the foundation stone is not known, though it is probably ‘above and below land’, which quarrymen should know the time. which was deposited stone, up to 85 m thick; upper grey limestone, 70 suggests that the monks had an inter- to 100 m thick; Sandy limestone, 100 to 200 m est in lead mining in this area. then. Since the hill was close to land, the deposits are relatively shallow compared to thick. Mining seems to have stopped on deposits in other parts of Britain. The mineral veins in the limestone dates from Llanymynech Hill until the 17th The limestone is exposed to form the south- the late Carboniferous age, and tend to run century. ern end of a west facing escarpment, which chiefly in a north east direction Saxon earthwork marks the border KING Offa of Mercia ruled from 757 to Offa’s Laws are particularly concerned about 795. He built the great earthwork as a Offa’s Dyke the procedure for tracking and recovering cattle border between the Welsh and the which were taken over the border. They also and Welsh as to its whereabouts, though in any laid down that any English or Welsh had to Saxons. It extends from Prestatyn on treaty the Saxons would have been able to have a guide from the other side, who had to the North Wales coast to , on dictate most of the terms. ensure they returned safely, without commit- the Severn estuary. Certainly it seems the Dyke was designed for ting any offence. The Dyke was originally known as the maximum military effect, always keeping to the Only half the usual death fine had to be paid Mark or March, which name the Normans high ground on westward facing hills, and with for either an Englishman or Welshman who later used to refer to a much wider area. the ditch to the west side of the rampart. Some was killed on the wrong side of the dyke. The The Dyke was probably built in the last English settlements were to the west of the law that any Welshman who was found carry- twelve years of Offa’s reign, and it is possible mark, which suggests that the military purpose ing weapons on the English side should have there was some agreement between the Saxons was considered the most important. his right arm cut off did not exist. 18 Views from the Hill Views from the Hill 19 a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area Acknowledgments Pillar of stone to mark and Sources

History The Cambrian Railways Offa’s Dyke Rex Christiansen & R.W. Miller Documents Concerning the Parish Sir Cyril Fox David & Charles of Llanymynech The British Academy an Admiral’s victory Local Studies Library 1955 Handbook to the Shropshire & Shrewsbury,1987 Montgomeryshire Railway Rome Against Caratacus Shropshire County Library The Montgomeryshire Collections Graham Webster 1977 Rodney’s Pillar The Powysland Club Batsford 1867-1999 1981 Shropshire Railways Revisited RODNEY’S Pillar was built to commemo- Carreghofa Shropshire Railway Society rate the victory of Admiral Rodney over Victorian History of the County of Shropshire Libraries the French. It seems there was already a Shropshire Canals 1982 on the move 1908/1973/1978/1968 plan to erect a monument because of the The Archaeology of the timber taken from trees growing around AFTER the Second World War, there Industrial Revolution in Shropshire Montgomeryshire Canal Richard K Morris the Breidden hills and used by the British was a move by some of the inhabitants Barry Trinder Stephen Hughes Shropshire Books Navy for its ships. 1973 Royal Commission on Ancient & 1983 of Carreghofa to move the parish from It was built in 1781, and may have been Historical Monuments in Wales designed by John Evans of Llwynygroes. Montgomeryshire to Shropshire. A 1981 Shropshire & Staffordshire Originally there was a round copper ball on the The main cause of complaint was Barry Trinder Railways Remembered top of the Pillar, but this was destroyed by light- the lack of sewage facilities and mains Phillimore Towpath Guide to the Leslie Oppitz ning. It was replaced in 1847, and the whole water and decent roads. 1983 Montgomeryshire Canal Countryside Books pillar repaired. Again it was renewed in 1896, Montgomeryshire did not want to John Horsley Denton 1993 and the ball was in place at that time. lose the good ratepayers of the parish, History of Oswestry & Lapal Publications In the early part of the 19th century, there was and it seems improvements were Llanymynech Races 1984 Becher (Geoffrey Edwards) Stories & Memories an idea to raise a monument to the memory of made, though it isn’t known whether Lord Nelson on Llanymynech Hill. Hadfield’s British Canals the threat to move was merely a bluff Meetings were held in Llanymynech, and the Joseph Boughey & Charles Bye-gones to gain better facilities. scheme was agreed, but abandoned, though it is Geography Hadfield Richard Holland (collected) not known why. Sutton Publishing Gwasg Carreg Gwalch The Welsh Borders 1994 1992 Roy Millward & Adrian Robinson Eyre Methuen Canals of the Montgomeryshire Memories 1978 Charles Hadfield 1900-1960 Change of location for post office David & Charles Sheila Roy (edited) Landscape of the Montgomeryshire Federation of Trevor Rowley Women’s Institutes The first Post Michael Joseph 1994 Office was 1986 Railways opened at the Cross Keys Hotel, Mines of Llanymynech Hill Branch Line to Shrewsbury We would also like to and when the Vic Mitchell & Keith Smith acknowledge the help of: The Shropshire Landscape Press Ron & Betty Hughes Postmistress Trevor Rowley 1991 moved to the Hodder & Stoughton Robin Morris Lion, it went with 1972 The Shropshire & The Rev Tony Villiers her.The next Montgomeryshire Railway Charlie & Marion Ingram place was in a Eric S. Tonks Dr Gill Poole Archaeology Industrial railway Society Rhis Owen small shop at the 1972 end of Bradford The Archaeology of the Welsh Adrian Tucker Row, then to Marches The Shropshire & Leslie Oppitz Ashfield Terrace, a S.C.Stanford Montgomeryshire Light Railway The Rev Michael Roberts little further west William Collins Keith & Susan Turner for their assistance in the making 1980 David & Charles of this booklet. from its present 1982 position. Earlier The Shell Book of Offa’s Dyke last century it was Path The Criggion Branch in the Frank Noble R Carpenter The Queen Anne Press Limited W. Swan place shown in 1969 this photo, on the Road. 20 Views from the Hill a 2000-year history of the Llanymynech area

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