TOURISM 136 DESTINATION RED, GREEN, BLUE A technicolour universe awaits divers exploring the deep off Lizard Island, while lush tropical rainforest and the outback are other enchanting aspects of far . GOING TROPPO QUEENSLAND’S TROPICAL NORTH FEATURES SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR NATURAL WONDERS IN THE SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE, AND AS SHERIDEN RHODES DISCOVERS, THERE IS PLENTY OF LUXURY AND COMFORT FROM WHICH TO EXPERIENCE THAT BEAUTY.

exclusivetravelgroup.com 138 DESTINATION TOURISM QUEENSLAND in as our new reptile friends retreat in the On the return journey, Cameron private balcony complete with hammock LOUNGE LIZARD served on Dupuy lentils with artichoke, opposite direction. It’s a magnificent start points out the large purple plum that the and day bed overlooking the rapids. Below: A day bed on exotic mushrooms and warm herb salad Lizard Island, with its to our visit to the Daintree and by the time cassowary bird likes to eat, and explains The main lodge itself is hidden high soaring views of the – a French twist to the exceptional local we wrap ourselves in towels on the sandy more about the unique flora and fauna in the treetops, and is where guests . Bottom: produce available. bank we’re grinning from ear to ear. of this ancient rainforest. At the walk’s gather for long cool cocktails in the Lizard Island (largest) If you’ve come to see the world’s from the air, along Our journey started a few hours end, we tuck into freshly baked damper Jungle Perch Bar, followed by dinner at with nearby Palfrey oldest rainforest, there’s really no need earlier in Cairns, heading north to Port and steaming billy tea, prepared on an the open-air treehouse, which serves up Island and South to venture far from the lodge’s creature Douglas on the outdoor oven, and reluctantly depart inspired seasonal dishes with a focus (Newt) Island. comforts given it borders the Daintree along one of ’s most beautiful what must be one of Australia’s greatest on ’s abundant National Park. Walking trails take you coastal stretches. The 70-kilometre tract natural treasures. produce. Pedemay’s crocodile and straight into the nearby Mossman Gorge, takes you alongside the postcard-perfect In Mossman, there are a couple tarragon cheesecake served with smoked you can picnic on the sandy banks and northern beaches, complete with palm- of other terrific things to try: coffee barramundi, pickled papaya, chutney and swim in the billabongs, which almost fringed, white-sand inlets and turquoise- at the funky 50s-style Junction Café, herb salad is the restaurant’s signature feel baptismal, or just kick back on a coloured water stretching to the horizon. contemporary fare at local prices at Mojo’s dish; other must-trys include the rare sun lounge with binoculars. There are Beyond is the town of Mossman, where Bar and Grill and, with spear in hand, you yellow-fin tuna served with green tea early morning yoga sessions along the we’ve come to see the Daintree. Over the can hunt for mud crabs, mussels and fish noodle salad, house made salmon gravlax river, and treatments to be had at the next few days we swim many more times with the Walker brothers at nearby Cooya and a mango and coriander dressing magnificent Healing Waters Spa, tucked with the family of freshwater turtles in our Beach. If you’re staying at Silky Oaks or the pesto-crusted reef barramundi beneath the rainforest canopy. Submit to the therapist’s skilful hands for one of the signature treatments using Western Australian spa care product Sodashi. Afterwards, float back to your private treehouse and breathe in the fresh balmy air of the magnificent rainforest habitat. www.silkyoakslodge.com.au f you had but one place to visit in own private billabong, tuck into crocodile DOWN BY THE RIVER Australia, tropical north Queensland cheese cake at the magnificent Silky Oaks Above and below: THE REEF Silky Oaks Lodge is would surely top the list. Here you’ll Resort, and take a Ngadiku Dreamtime Like nothing on earth, the Great Barrier I spectacularly situated find not one, but two World Heritage-listed Gorge walk at the new $20 million on the Mossman River Reef remains one of Australia’s most regions – the Jurassic Park-like Daintree Mossman Gorge Centre. and sits amid the mesmerising, sublime attractions. Those Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef, one While on the one hand it’s Daintree Rainforest’s who visit it for the first time leave intoxicated giant canopy. Right: A of the seven wonders of the world and disappointing that you can no longer bird’s-eye, not-for-the- by the under-water marvels, while for the only living organism you can see from drive yourself into Mossman Gorge, the faint-hearted view of tourists around the globe, this is an area space. It’s where the rainforest meets the new eco-friendly centre, which serves up Barron Falls. to keeping returning to and exploring. reef, where jungle-clad mountains tumble The recreational activities are endless, down to the sea. Head inland however the weather sublime and the Queensland and, almost incomprehensively, you people, of course, warm and welcoming. travel from rich, vibrant reef to immense, Among the most intriguing locations fathomless outback, under wide-open on the Reef must be Lizard Island, which skies. Large cattle stations the size of sits 240 kilometres north of Cairns and small European countries, pioneer gold 27 kilometres off the coast of north fields, hidden campsites, lava tubes and Queensland. Traditionally, the island, volcanic lakes are all part and parcel of the outback experience. Yes, tropical north Queensland is just one vast corner of excellent café fare and is almost entirely Lodge (for families with children 12 and Australia, yet it’s blessed with ecologically staffed by indigenous locals, ensures over), however, you may never venture rich habitats and regions not found man’s footprint on this ancient rainforest further than its acclaimed in-house anywhere else. There’s nothing for it but to is minimised. restaurant led by French-born executive dive right in. We join Cameron Buchannan, a local chef Laurent Pedemay and its sublime indigenous guide, on a Dreamtime walk water holes fed by the Mossman River. THE RAINFOREST through the world’s oldest living rainforest Silky Oaks is a luxury lodge in every We arrive at the friendly sugar-growing – the inspiration for the movie Avatar – sense of the word and its location, right town of Mossman in the Daintree. Our learning about the Kuku Yalanji people on the pristine river, fed by the Mossman clothes are damp from humidity and it’s along the way. It’s another steamy hot Gorge with its pure waters cascading nigh on dusk. A chorus of what sounds day and in anticipation we wear bathers downstream over granite boulders, is like a thousand cicadas fills the air, which underneath our loose cotton clothing. arguably the best in the Daintree. There is sultry and smells fresh and alive. We Cameron points out Kauri and ancient are 43 luxurious and contemporary discard our clothes and wash off the cycads, plants, bush tucker sources standalone river and treehouses where grime of the day’s travelling in a cool, and culturally significant sites, including wide verandahs, luxurious spa baths green billabong where it’s believed several traditional bark shelters, before we arrive and hammocks look out over evergreen families of turtles live. A tiny red kingfisher at a glorious waterhole fed by a gushing rainforests of massive ferns, the bubbling skims the surface to take a drink and waterfall and surrounded by granite river and giant kauri trees reaching for within moments, something sends ripples boulders. Here we enjoy an invigorating the sky. Last year the eco lodge added across the surface. Right in front of us swim. As we dry ourselves on a rock, two high-end ‘Billabong Suites’ featuring is a tiny freshwater turtle. We stay as Cameron mixes up red and orange clay custom-designed furniture made from motionless as possible and watch as it is from river water and dot paints both local sustainable timbers, open-plan living joined by its extended family. Eventually his and my arm, while a large Ulysses areas, Bose sound system, complimentary we can bear it no longer and jump back butterfly flits by in all its brilliance. mini bar, library and a large full-length

exclusivetravelgroup.com 140 DESTINATION TOURISM QUEENSLAND There is no end of activities available on the island. Foremost among them must be fishing, with the charter boat Fascination available for an adrenalin-charged game fishing expedition for black marlin, tuna, mackerel, trevally and swordfish. A helicopter tour is also a wondrous experience here, as is diving. One enjoys a profound, humbling experience when diving in the famous Cod Hole, where the potato cod will swim right up to you, while the island is also, tantalisingly, only a 50-minute boat ride to that place of legend and intrigue: the outer Reef. There is also ample opportunity for reflection and rejuvenation on Lizard Island. The Azure Spa prides itself on treatments inspired by nature itself, to nurture mind, body and spirit with an TOUCH THE CLOUDS emphasis on the balance between the A helicopter takes in the spectacular Arlington Reef, south of Lizard physical and emotional. After all, the Island. Below left: Meeting the locals is an unforgettable experience. tranquility surrounding you on this island Below right: The sun sets off the balcony of one of the resort’s most prestigious spots, the Pavilion. Bottom: One of the island’s 24 should be matched by ‘inner peace’. sublime beaches.

AWAY FROM IT ALL A telling view of Crystalbrook Lodge’s remoteness, perched on the shore of Crystalbrook Lake. Below: The resort’s viewing deck as the morning sun rises.

THE OUTBACK in part to the gorgeous Crystalbrook Lake. It’s a sticky afternoon as we spiral up from Here is home to a truly staggering range which is about 10 square kilometers in the magnificent Daintree to the Atherton of wildlife including birds, freshwater size, was reached via a three-day boat Tablelands – the shimmering Coral Sea on crocodiles and fish. trip from Townsville, though now many one side, and the rich, red volcanic soil The days here, as you might expect, visitors hop on a flight from Cairns, which that makes it ‘the food bowl’ of tropical are blissfully warm with clear blue naturally affords some heavenly views. It should not need dwelling on that north Queensland on the other. As we skies. Evenings are pleasantly cool – Lizard Island is regarded as a sacred Lizard Island food is mind-boggling. The level out, the sky overhead is cloudless particularly lovely when enjoying outdoor place for Aboriginal people, and was used resort has attracted some of the world’s and blue; the asphalt simmers in searing dining overlooking the lake with a menu as a place for the initiation of young men finest cooks such as Anthony Healy, who 36-degree heat. Some 40 kilometres featuring the very best of the region’s rich as well as hunting. The name ‘Lizard works with fresh seafood and superb ahead however is an ominous belt of black local produce. If you look up during these Island’ was coined by Captain Cook local produce, as well as that from the storm clouds – and we’re heading straight moments, you can glimpse the Southern himself, based on the fact lizards were Atherton Tablelands and beef from the for it. The closer we get, the darker it Cross and Milky Way lighting up the sky. the only beasts he set eyes on when rich volcanic soils of Mareeba. becomes. Raindrops the size of saucers A helicopter ride is an essential must- discovering this paradise. A centrepiece of dining on Lizard Island splatter the windscreen, lightening bolts do when staying at Crystalbrook Lodge. Today, the island is a lap of luxury to must be the seven-course degustation strike the bush plains on either side of the These flights offer extremely moving complement the extraordinary natural menu enjoyed with sand underfoot and highway and the temperature plummets views over unique Queensland vistas, the beauty, which includes no less than 24 stars overhead, on the beach. Healy is a 15 degrees. It’s a dramatic introduction bronzed landscape spreading out below powdery-white beaches. Only 40 villas hands-on sort of chef and interacts with to the Cairns Highlands, gateway to Cape seemingly endlessly. and suites are on the island, with the guests, telling them about the richness York Peninsula and the Gulf Savannah As well as the landscape, history plays resort recently undergoing modernising and quality of all the local produce. – otherwise known in Australia as the a major part in any visit to Crystalbrook refurbishment. The most spectacular The other abundance on Lizard Island outback, or colloquially, the back of Lodge. Guests can pay a visit to accommodation available on the island must of course be wildlife. Nature lovers woop woop. It’s here that the remarkable Crystalbrook Homestead, an outback must be the Pavilion. Sitting high up can experience over 40 species of land Crystalbrook can be found. station where one can learn all the secrets above the Coral Sea on the point of the and sea birds including the white-breasted Crystalbrook Lodge is in remote outback of old-style cattle farming and how tough amazing Sunset Ridge, the Pavilion sea eagle and yellow-bellied sunbird, as bush 180 kilometres west of Cairns, and life once was for those working the land in combines privacy with a breathtaking well as, of course, the lizards that made part of the 85,000-acre Crystalbrook this region – and impressively this is still 270-degree panorama of Anchor Bay, such an impression on Captain Cook. Station. This is a secluded mecca for a working property. Afternoon tea at the Osprey Island and Sunset Beach. www.lizardisland.com.au nature lovers and fishermen alike, thanks homestead is a cosy part of this visit.

exclusivetravelgroup.com 142 DESTINATION TOURISM QUEENSLAND

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The Exclusive Travel Group, founded in 2002 is a specialist company focusing on bespoke luxury travel to New Zealand, Australia and the South Pacific. Offering a full portfolio of travel services combined with qualified independent advice we cater to the needs of a discerning clientele, guaranteeing a genuinely personal service at all times. Each itinerary is meticulously crafted to meet the individual requirements of our clients – we assist with every aspect of your visit from the time of the first enquiry to the day you depart. We understand that ‘knowledge is king’; working with the Exclusive Travel Group you will have direct access to your own Destination Specialist, one of our extremely talented and knowledgeable team to assist with each stage of the Also nearby is Chillagoe Caves, with its OUTBACK OASIS limestone stalactites and stalacmites. These From the top: planning and delivery process. Crystalbrook Lodge’s caves have also revealed fossilised bones For guests requiring expertly manicured additional specialist services we of crocodiles and extinct giant kangaroos private grounds; and giant wombats. Not far from Chillagoe Aboriginal rock art have a Private Travel division Caves are fascinating marble mines and to be found near directed exclusively by our Chillagoe Caves; sites of Aboriginal art. Cattle farming has professional and experienced Crystalbrook Lodge itself features five left an indelible senior management team. These courtyard suites for a maximum of just ten imprint on the services, tailored specifically for history of the people, ensuring maximum pampering and Crystalbrook region. visiting dignitaries, celebrities, attention, and beautifully manicured private politicians, and VIP’s with grounds. Crystalbrook Lodge also offers specialised requirements are its own Magna wet edge pool, rich with available on request and used by health-giving magnesium salts. Lakeside the most discerning travellers in walking trails and myriad nature- watching the world. opportunities also await the Lodge’s guests. All clients have access After such a dramatic, overwhelming to our fully serviced 24 hour display of weather with those brilliant travel concierge service and are storms, it is a relief to find a spot of calm guaranteed privacy and discretion and quiet in the remote Queensland appropriate to their expectations outback. Yet that fiery performance from alongside a dedicated and highly Mother Nature is, of course, one of the personal service. great reasons this part of the world is so very alluring. The Exclusive Travel Group is www.crystalbrookcollection.com.au headquartered in New Zealand with an office in Sydney and Whether you want to immerse yourself in representatives in the UK, the world’s oldest rainforest, see the beauty Moscow (Russia and Eastern and kaleidoscope of the reef’s vibrant Europe), The Middle East (UAE, colours, or lose yourself in the enormity Qatar, Abu Dhabi, Kuwait, of the outback, tropical north Queensland Bahrain and Saudi Arabia), serves up all three and then some, with no Australia and North America. need to sacrifice style or comfort. It’s also www.exclusivetravelgroup.com a place that gets under your skin, and you www.exclusivelynz.com may find yourself, like a migratory bird, returning again and again.