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Way up the Cape's West Coast

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Way up the Cape's West Coast ADVENTUREDRIVE Namaqualand This page: A group of trail runners on a recce along the Namaqua X Tri-Challenge route. The Wild,Wild Text and photographs: Jacques Marais Way up the Cape’s West Coast – along a stretch of wild country where arid scrubland collides with an icy ocean – you’ll discover Namaqualand in all its glory. Best of all, if you plan your trip during the secret ‘Green Season’, you’ll have it all to yourself… 42 APRIL 2019 leisurewheels.co.za leisurewheels.co.za APRIL 2019 43 ADVENTUREDRIVE Namaqualand HE Namaqua West Coast is unlike to immerse yourself within the Namaqua any place else in South Africa, West Coast (and the Namaqua Coastal that’s for sure. It’s a region that Route just a bit further north) is to get off incorporates both vast desertscapes the beaten track. Pick a road, any gravel Tand endless stretches of shoreline, making road, and gear up for a mind-warping for a destination of truly breathtaking voyage of discovery. divergence and jaw-dropping contrasts. These back roads offer the best way to Geologically and ecologically, the area immerse yourself in the timelessness of is situated upon that tipping point where nature, slowly tick-tocking along to the Below: Mountain the coastal plains butt up against an inland rhythm of an unseen geological clock. All bikers take a escarpment. Travellers who trip into this around will be fresh air by day, and infinite, breather along place will find themselves surrounded by star-studded skies by night. the Viswater a minimalist landscape where, over many Chances are you will go for days without MTB Trail near eons, the onslaught of extreme elements encountering any fellow homo sapiens, the Deurspring viewpoint. have shaped a space rugged beyond belief. except, of course, if you should decide to Opposite page, Terra firma bristles with a profusion of venture into the wonderful, quirky and top: Stunning bulbs and succulents, while stark quiver quaint dorps dotting the region. viewpoints trees and enormous granite outcrops spike Kamieskroon, Kleinzee, Doringbaai, along the Jeep high against the blue sky. During spring – Papendorp, Koingnaas, the fabled (and track between and seemingly overnight – the sand-blown rather infamous) Hondeklip Bay: each and Doring Bay and Strandfontein ridges and plains are transformed into a every one of these tiny hideaway villages makes for a floral wonderland with the arrival of a full- brims with stories and characters. glorious late on flower bloom. Here are a handful of places you do not afternoon drive. It is, however, autumn that reigns supreme want to miss out on. Come on, what are you Opposite page, as the secret ‘Green Season’ and the best way waiting for? Go hit those country roads. bottom: Secret breaks along the Namaqua West Coast offer excellent surfing if you know where to look. Damn, it’s offshore breeze to kick in. Maybe saddle up your mission village, Papendorp, DORING BAY Plus, there’s wine! Yep, just mountain bike – or meander where the Olifants River estuary And Strandfontein, of course, down the drag in Doring Bay along the gravel roads in your creates one of South Africa’s because these two dorpies are you’ll be pleased to know that car – to explore the dramatic most significant protected pretty much joined at the hip. the excellent Fryer’s Cove sea cliffs stacking up beyond wetlands. The locals here used A breathtaking 6km coastal cliff Winery awaits in an authentic Strandfontein. The well-marked to be subsistence fishermen, trail links these two West Coast setting right on the old harbour Viswater Trail brims with but these days they mostly go villages, making for one of the pier. There is no better place rugged outdoor beauty, making out with tourists or have to most scenic afternoon ambles to enjoy fresh-from-the-ocean for an exhilarating afternoon of find a way to supplement their you can imagine, especially fish or West Coast mussels than trail running or MTB cranking. fishing income. at sunset, when amber and right here, while sipping on an Keep following the trail and The catch is dried as russet hues beam in across the ice-cold Sauvignon Blanc. you’ll eventually reach the tiny traditional bokkoms – a local Atlantic Ocean. fish-biltong delicacy – and when Strandfontein is the bigger of you’re out on the ‘bakkie boats’ the two but not by much. For with these rough-diamond most of the year it is utterly ooms, there’s always loads of laid-back and languid but come banter and tall tales flying summer, the Namaqualanders about. It’s without a doubt one pull in for the holiday season. of those real-life Namaqua West The local caravan park Coast adventures you should overflows into a non-stop add to your to do-list while bakkie-and-beach party and visiting the region. you can be sure the dop-and- The birdwatching is dam will be flowing. incredible off the boats as well, If this is not your scene, sneak with loads of lesser flamingos, back in the off-season and you African spoonbills, eastern can bet there won’t be a soul in white pelican and other aquatic sight. Cue me and my surfboard species. Even better, bring your because there are some superb SUP to blade among flocks of breaks here if you wait for the waterbirds. This is an activity 44 APRIL 2019 leisurewheels.co.za leisurewheels.co.za APRIL 2019 45 ADVENTUREDRIVE Land Rover Club Tanzania Namaqualand ADVENTUREDRIVE because they are too busy flying Okiep is the oldest mining town Accommodation options past on the highway. Those in South Africa. include Nama grass huts erected people are missing out on one of between giant boulders, as well Namaqua’s most special spots. NARIES as outstanding self-catering Malcolm and his staff prepare One of my best finds along units and bed-and-breakfast the best lamb neck on the planet the Namaqua Coastal Route rooms in the Manor House. and those hills you see from is Naries Namaqua Retreat, The endless open spaces the front stoep are alive with tucked away among the right on your doorstep are adventure possibilities. Local lore renosterbos ridges on the impressive. Anything is has it that the name originated Kleinzee Road, just 15 minutes possible here on the edge of from the word ‘U-gieb’ but from Springbok. This beautiful the colossal inland plateau, no one is 100% sure of the Khoi destination caters for a fresh- with a well-marked network meaning. It possibly refers to the air crowd in search of a great of routes for runners, hikers, ‘brak fountain’ or the ‘big tree’. outdoor destination but coupled mountain bikers or the What is known, however, is that with a degree of comfort. 4×4 crowd. Left: The Kamieskroon Mountains are just the place when you want to get off the beaten track. Far left, bottom: Great hiking trails and off-road running routes traverse the mountainous topography around Okiep. Right: The hideaway mountain suites at Naries Namakwa Retreat must rate as one of the best Northern Cape getaways. Below: The Telegraph Road descent is one of the hairy guided 4×4 routes from Naries Namakwa Retreat. sure to transport you into as The summers are generally tranquil a state of nature as you balmy, with clear skies and a can imagine. sparkling blue ocean while the The opportunities for spear winters can get rather chilly, fishing and rock angling are with fog and the occasional endless. There are ample spots winter storm. But hey, that’s no along the West Coast where problem, right? All you need to you are able to pitch a tent on do is light a fire and crack open the ocean’s edge, with nothing a bottle of hearty local red. but the hushing roar of the That’s one dorpie down, Atlantic rollers to keep you and I’m already running out company while you drift off of space. Time for Plan B, so into the flame-flicker zone of here goes with a few additional your campfire. ‘quickies’ to add to your road Plus, there are regular whale trip itinerary while heading into and dolphin sightings from the Wild, Wild West. the sea cliffs, while the pristine coastal plains go super-colour- OKIEP floweristic every year from This quirky little town – just August through September 10km beyond Springbok along with the arrival of the annual the N7 – is just the place to wild flowers. This ‘bloom’ goes break your journey from Cape hand in hand with a tourist Town to Namibia. Problem boom though, so make sure is, most people don’t know you plan and book well ahead. anything about this little dorpie 46 APRIL 2019 leisurewheels.co.za leisurewheels.co.za APRIL 2019 47 ADVENTUREDRIVE Namaqualand HONDEKLIP BAY NAMAQUA some insight into San history, ‘Dog-Stone-Bay’ was supposedly NATIONAL PARK with shell middens dating back named for a rocky outcrop Although best known for some 1900 years. which is said to resemble a the spectacular annual wild dog, but maybe you need a few Left: Great coastal flower displays in spring, this WEST COAST brandies and Coke to ‘see’ it. This walking trails – and 170 000ha park has many WINE ROUTE tiny hamlet absolutely brims stunning views other attractions. Mountain Until recently, the Namaqua with characters and attractions, - are just a few bikers can crank to their heart’s West Coast was known of the pleasures and rates as one of the Northern you can expect content with over 200km of for box plonk, rather than Cape’s prime beach getaways when you visit the gravel roads and tracks to as a destination for wine once holiday season kick in.
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