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100 Ronda Iberia Ronda Iberia 101 Gibraltar Gibraltar Una Roca Con Historia a Rock with History

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100 Ronda Iberia Ronda Iberia 101 Gibraltar Gibraltar Una Roca Con Historia a Rock with History 100 RONDA IBERIA RONDA IBERIA 101 GIBRALTAR GIBRALTAR UNA ROCA CON HISTORIA A ROCK WITH HISTORY Sin duda, Gibraltar es un enclave especialmente marcado por su historia, por su mestizaje racial y lingüístico, y por su arquitectura de toques británicos bajo el sol andaluz... Bañado por el Mediterráneo y el Atlántico, en pocos kilómetros se agolpan multitud de rincones curiosos y con encanto. TEXTO / TEXT: JULIO RUIZ >>FOTOGRAFÍAS / PHOTOS: LUIS DAVILLA DAVILLA Hasta por su origen geológico, Gibraltar destaca. Hace seis millones de años lo que ahora ocupa el mar Mediterráneo era un páramo repleto de sal. Pero impresionantes movimientos tectónicos abrieron un estrecho camino para las aguas atlánticas, provocando una colosal catarata que vertió incontables cantidades de agua durante un siglo sobre esa cuenca, llenándola de vida. Testigo de ese hecho es la mole de piedra caliza y pizarra, erosionada por tan violento torrente, que llamamos Gibraltar. Ahí no queda la cosa. Según recientes estudios, Gibraltar muy bien pudo ser el último refugio del hombre de Neandertal, la especie que dominó Europa durante las eras glaciales. En Gorham’s Cave, en la cara Este del Peñón, se han encontrado restos de estos parientes nuestros de entre 32.000 y 24.000 años de antigüedad. Por esta roca donde los griegos situaron una de las dos columnas de Hércules (la otra es el monte Abyla, en la orilla africana del Estrecho) se han paseado fenicios (que no quisieron construir aquí por ser suelo sagrado), romanos, visigodos, bizantinos, musulmanes, castellanos y, desde 1704, británicos. En agosto de ese año, en apoyo al archiduque Carlos, una escuadra anglo holandesa conquistó Gibraltar en medio de la Guerra de Sucesión Española. El aspirante austriaco no llegó a reinar en Madrid, pero el Tratado de Utrecht (1713) consagró la dominación británica de este estratégico enclave, aunque españoles y franceses intentaron sin éxito reconquistarlo a lo largo de un siglo. Como los gibraltareños de hace 303 años siguieron fieles al francés Felipe V y emigraron a pocos kilómetros de distancia para fundar San Roque, los británicos repoblaron el Peñón con gentes venidas de todo el Mediterráneo, especialmente italianos, portugueses y malteses. También acudieron ingleses, escoceses e irlandeses, que formaban la guarnición militar, mientras que comerciantes judíos e indios y trabajadores magrebíes fueron llegando poco a poco. Por ello, en sus calles hay iglesias católicas y protestantes, sinagogas, una mezquita y hasta un templo hindú. Esta influencia se nota también en la variada gastronomía del Peñón. Esta mezcla racial, en la que también abunda la sangre andaluza fruto de tres siglos de vecindad, ha generado una forma de ser única y un habla peculiar. Entre los ‘llanitos’ (apodo de los gibraltareños), es habitual comenzar una frase en inglés y terminarla en español (o viceversa), aunque con los visitantes se expresan en un ingles perfecto o en un español correcto. Los gibraltareños se sienten fervorosamente unidos a la Corona británica, y la Union Jack ondea por sus calles casi tanto como la enseña blanquirroja, bandera inspirada en el escudo concedido a la ciudad por los Reyes Católicos en 1502 (escudo que es también el de San Roque). Resulta curioso pasear por Main Street, con la animación comercial de todo puerto franco. Las tiendas se apiñan en esta estrecha vía peatonal, ofreciendo a buen precio licores, tabaco, chocolates y aparatos electrónicos, desde cámaras fotográficas a guitarras eléctricas. Los vendedores, predominantemente hindúes, ofrecen sus productos tanto en libras como en euros. Turistas, muchos de ellos llegados en grandes cruceros, y campogibraltareños deambulan cargados de bolsas. Los segundos, con una botella de güisqui y un cartón de tabaco americano que guardan en el maletero del coche tras llenar el tanque por menos dinero que en La Línea, la ciudad española con menos cuestas. Sin embargo, en Gibraltar la horizontalidad del suelo es un lujo, y el aeropuerto se construyó en terrenos ganados al mar, donde aparatos comerciales se turnan con cazas británicos para despegar. La pista fue pensada para aprovechar los dos vientos siempre presentes: el de levante (Este) y el de poniente (Oeste). Así, el avión se coloca en una u otra dirección para frenarse en el aterrizaje o para recibir empuje al despegar. Desde el aeródromo, se puede contemplar la fachada norte del Peñón, un muro de piedra que se alza hasta los 421 metros, si bien la mayor altura se encuentra en la parte sur (426 metros). En las cumbres abundan los famosos monos, unos macacos que son el vestigio más palpable de la época árabe, junto al castillo, los baños del sótano del museo y, cómo no, el propio nombre del enclave: Jebel Tarik (Monte de Tarik, el general que inició el dominio musulmán en la Península). Los monos se suelen prestar a ser fotografiados, aunque no hay que abusar ya que algunos tienen mal carácter. Mientras unos retozan al solo en las ramas de retorcidos árboles esculpidos por el viento, otros macacos, ajenos a la multa que puede caerle a quien los alimente, mendigan comida a los visitantes que llegan en teleférico. O en taxi, ascendiendo la estrecha carretera al borde del abismo que fue escenario de una vertiginosa persecución en 007 Alta tensión. Excavados por el hombre o de origen natural, túneles y cuevas se extienden a lo largo de kilómetros en el interior de la roca. Destacan las estalactitas y estalagmitas de la Cueva de San Miguel, así como los túneles del Gran Asedio, un impresionante sistema defensivo del siglo XVIII dotado de cañones de la época. Mediante cita previa, se puede visitar también el complejo de túneles de la Segunda Guerra Mundial, donde Eisenhower planeó la invasión aliada del Norte de África. El mar es lógicamente una de las principales bazas turísticas del Peñón. Uno puede disfrutarlo apaciblemente en las playas de la cara este, hacer submarinismo en sus ricos fondos o embarcarse para contemplar los delfines que pueblan el Estrecho. Desde costas lejanas llegaron a Gibraltar las plantas exóticas que pueblan los jardines botánicos. Y también en barco arribaron los cadáveres de los marinos que disputaron junto a Nelson la batalla de Trafalgar, dos de los cuales descansan en el cementerio militar, uno de los símbolos más señeros de este peculiar enclave repleto de historia y de curiosidades. GIBRALTAR, A ROCK WITH HISTORY There is no doubt that Gibraltar is a singular place. Its peculiarity comes from its agitated history, its racial and linguistic crossbreeding, and a certain Britishness about its buildings basking in the Andalusian sun. Washed by both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, a vast amount of charming curiosities are crammed here into a few square kilometres. Even Gibraltar’s geological origin is unusual. Six million years ago, the area now occupied by the Mediterranean Sea was a vast plain full of salt deposits. However, a narrow path was forced open for the waters of the Atlantic by awesome tectonic movements, creating a colossal cataract that poured vast amounts of water into the basin for a century and filled it with life. The whole process was witnessed by a mass of limestone and slate which was worn away by the raging torrent, and which we now call Gibraltar. And that is not all. According to recent studies, Gibraltar may well have been the last refuge of Neanderthal man, the species which dominated Europe during the Ice Ages. In Gorham’s Cave on the east side of the Rock, remains that have appeared of these forefathers of ours have been shown to date from between 32,000 and 24,000 years ago. Identified by the Greeks as one of the two Pillars of Hercules (the other is Mount Abyla on the African shore of the Strait), this rock has been trodden by the Phoenicians (who regarded it as sacred ground and so never built here), Romans, Visigoths, Byzantines, Muslims, Castilians and, as of 1704, the British. In August of that year, in support for Archduke Charles, an Anglo-Dutch squadron conquered Gibraltar in the middle of the War of the Spanish Succession. The Austrian claimant to the throne never reigned in Madrid, but the Treaty of Utrecht of 1713 confirmed Britain’s domination of the strategic enclave. Even so, the Spanish and the French both tried unsuccessfully to take it back in the course of the next century. Because the Gibraltarians of 303 years ago remained faithful to the French Philip V, and so emigrated from the Rock to found the town of San Roque a few miles away, the British repopulated Gibraltar with people from all over the Mediterranean, especially Italians, Portuguese and Maltese. Englishmen, Scots and Irishmen also arrived to form the military garrison, whilst Jewish and Indian traders and North African workers trickled in too. That is why there are Catholic and Protestant churches, synagogues, a mosque and even a Hindu temple to be found in its streets, and such influences are also evident in the Rock’s varied cuisine. This racial mixture, to which three centuries of living side by side has also added a good deal of Andalusian blood, has generated a unique character and a peculiar patois. Among the [Llanitos], as the Gibraltarians are nicknamed, it is quite usual to begin a sentence in English and end it in Spanish, or vice versa, although they address visitors in fluent Spanish or perfect English. The Gibraltarians feel fervently united to the British Crown, and the Union Jack waves in the streets almost as much as the town’s own red and white ensign, which was inspired by the arms granted to it in 1502 by Ferdinand and Isabella. The coat of arms of San Roque is the same.
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