ROBERT JONES WORKSHOP 2005 Robert Jones’ website: www.beautemadesimple.com 1-800-8BEAUTE

General Knowledge

1. RJ has worked with Sheryl Crow, Dixie Chicks, Leanne Rimes, MK NSD’s, MK Top Directors, and Corporate Staff.

2. MK Cosmetics is the first cosmetic brand company to apply make-up artist approaches to its entire existing product line. Our closest competitor, Estee Lauder, is seeing the market trend toward artist-driven lines. such as Bobbi Brown, and M.A.C. They purchased such lines as Bobbi Brown and MAC rather than applying the philosophy to their existing products. Estee Lauder also owns Stila, Aveda, Prescriptives, Clinique, and Jane.

3. First and most importantly every woman needs to remember she is beautiful.

4. Purpose of wearing makeup is to use it to artfully sculpt and accentuate your best features.

5. You sell skin care by selling the benefits, what the products will do for your customer and how it will meet their needs. You sell color cosmetics by tempting and sampling.

6. Beautiful makeup is all about the colors you use, the tools you use and where you place the actual color cosmetics---never about how much you put on.

7. The concept that “less is more” definitely holds true for makeup. Color Cosmetics are to enhance the features God gave you not change them.

8. Whatever the season or the events, beautiful makeup will boost your self-confidence, which in turn will make you, feel good about yourself, which will translate into true beauty inside and out.

9. Simple and natural means your makeup palette should be suited to your complexion and should change with each season to compliment the change in your skin’s natural tone.

10. Makeup is an emotion buy, but there is a technical side. It takes 18 – 24 months to develop a product.

11. AHA was replaced by Peptides (3 molecules joined together). More gentle on skin.

12. Forget everything you ever heard about cool vs. warm skin tone. 85% of all women are warm-tones, but 100% of women can wear warm shades. Cool shades look harsh and add age to the face. We all have yellow undertone.

13. Color Cosmetics does not have to match your clothing. You can wear warm shades of makeup with cool clothing. As you can wear cool color cosmetics with warm clothing.

14. The only true cool tones women are those who cannot tan and have the blackest of black hair. These are the only women who need pink undertone foundation shade. Ivory 105 & Black hair. To find a customer’s true undertone, look at the inside of her arm. 1 Face Conditions

• Facial Masking – when a person has a lighter area in the center of the face and darker areas at edges due to a higher build up of dermis in the outer perimeter of the face. Primarily found in bronze and ebony skin tones. • Two 2 shades of foundation will be required. • Dark areas will need a golden orange undertone to lighten (xx7) • Lighter areas will need warm brown undertone to deepen (xx8)

Dark under eye circles • Apply concealer just to the area of demarcation and blend up. • If severely dark, use yellow concealer • Do this before foundation / stipple foundation and powder so you don’t rub off your work. • For bronze, use concealer blend with 507 or 607.

Hypo-pigmentation/ pregnancy masking/ port-wine areas/melasma • Age spots or brown spots can be caused by too much sun or by a shift in hormones during pregnancy. • This can happen to women with any skin tone. • Apply concealer only to the areas that are discolored. • Stipple on foundation over concealer • Ivory/Beige tones should use yellow concealer • Bronze skin tones should use a golden-orange concealer

Covering Acne • Match concealer to foundation. Dap on blemish only. • Red Zit = use a Q-tip and Visine to take the red out • If she has lots of acne, send her to the Dr. so she does not scar. • The darker the skin, the easier to scar (scar lasts 2 years+)

Scar • A scar is a raised area of skin tat has no pores, which makes it difficult to conceal because pores are what makeup clings to on the skin. • First, apply moisturizer to area, then loose powder, and then apply concealer with a brush. The concealer and the powder mix together to form a drier texture that will stick better to the scar.

Broken Capillaries and Veins • Must use a tiny brush and apply carefully only to tiny line. Stipple to blend

Bumps and valleys • Make foundation as matte as possible. No shine!

Large Pores • Use Timewise Products • The majority of people with large pores have combination and oily skin • Oil Mattifer and Beauty Blotters are their favorite products

Under eye puffiness: • Highlight shadowy dark area • Stipple on foundation • Apply another coat of concealer

Rosacea: • Use yellow concealer or Ivory 200 to counteract the red. Do not over blend.

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Lip Outliner • Keeps lip color from bleeding and feathering. • Best time to apply is after foundation and powder, before lipstick. • It DOES NOT go on the lip. It goes outside the natural lip line. • An added benefit of this product – that will not be touted by MK simply because the company has not put it through a focus group – is that you can apply the lip outliner beneath your eyes to prevent watering to fill the creases. It is perfectly safe for such use, it just hasn’t been focus-group tested so the company will not claim it in print.

Eye Primer • Contains no AHA. • Apply Primer, Concealer and Powder on Eye lid to provide a smooth canvas. • NEVER apply Full Coverage Timewise Foundation, CTP or Cream DR to Eye Lid. • Medium Coverage Foundation can be used on eye lid.

Concealer • Tube concealer generally has a creamier texture that’s lighter and less likely to collect in the fine lines, therefore making it great for mature skin. It provides terrific coverage and is useful because it can be further thinned by mixing it with foundation. It’s perfect to use under the eyes because it’s one the easiest on the market to blend. • Our formula has pigments that counteract skin discolorations. • Only use concealer on areas of discolored skin. • For severe brown, purple, or red spots use yellow concealer.

Dual Coverage Powder Foundation • TWDC – Dual means it can be used as a foundation or pressed powder. It may be applied dry or with a damp clean sponge. Use a damp sponge for a more matte finish. TWDC is low in oil and does not clog the pores. • Use sponge application for more coverage, the brush for less coverage. • TWDC Powder Foundation may change to a darker color once it mixes with the skin’s oils. You may need to go a shade lighter if this happens.

Cream To Powder Foundations • Cream to Powder Foundations were designed for the oily skin. • You do not need to powder after using TWDC. • IF you do NEED to use powder you should be using TW Medium Coverage Foundation

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Timewise Medium and Full Coverage Foundation • The shades are numbered and can be used globally. Makeup artists think in numbers. • Each digit means something. The undertone numbers (last digit) are as follows:

• 0 – Yellow – Burns then tans • 2 – Olive (Tans easily) • 4 – Pink (neutral and has both yellow & pink) Never tans, only burns • 5 – More pink • 7 – Golden orange • 8 – Warm brown

• The 1st 2 numbers are the lightness and darkness color intensities. The higher the number, the darker the shade. Always start with a 0 undertone and work from there.

• The ultramarine pigments in MK products create a fresher, younger, and brighter look. Not an ashy whitening effect.

• The transfer resistant formula takes 30-seconds to 2 minutes to dry so that the undertone disappears into the skin. It is transfer resistant, not transfer proof.

• Timewise Full-coverage is for normal to dry skin. Full is moisturizing • Timewise Medium-coverage is for combination or oily skin. It contains oil absorbers. Oil absorbers dilute coverage. People with oily skin may desire to apply a second layer. If applying a 2nd coat for more coverage, make sure the 1st coat has dried.

• A damp sponge gives the best application and is more ideal if you have large pores.

• MK has an ideal sponge because of its foam rubber content. You must wash your sponge with soap and water after EVERY application of foundation. Replace your sponge once a week or use a new fresh one for each application.

• If finger application is preferred, make sure you wash your hands of any other products before you apply your foundation. The ingredients from another product can change the composition of the foundation, and thus, its effect.

Stripe-testing: • Stripe test yourself and your customers EVERY 6 MONTHS. You may not be the same shade each season, or even each year.

• Ivory-Beige skin: stripe test from jaw to neck. Match the neck, not the face. If there is red in the neck you may need to use a foundation with a pink undertone.

• Bronze-Ebony: stripe test cheek to jaw.

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Face Shapes, • Everything about your face is unique, including its shape. So why would you want to put on your makeup the same way as everyone else? • Your goal in highlighting and contouring is to create an Oval. Highlight inside the oval, and contour outside the oval. • Remember that the proper hairstyle can go a long way in balancing any face shape.

Oval

• An Oval-shaped face is considered by most to be the perfect facial shape because of its beautiful symmetry. • Broader at the cheeks, tapering in slightly at both the forehead and the chin. • You do not need to contour and highlight this shape of face.

Round Face • A round-shaped face is fuller and generally holds its youthful appearance longer than other face shapes. • It’s shorter, fairly wide, with full cheeks and a rounded chin. • Highlight the forehead, underneath the eyes on top of the cheekbones and the center of your chin to draw attention to the center of your face. • Contour your temples, cheeks and jaw line with a bronzer powder that is one or two shades darker than your skin tone to create the illusion of an oval.

Square Face • RK personally feels this shape to be one of the most beautiful and the most photogenic because it suggest strength, and the features are usually symmetrically balanced. • A square-shaped face is the same width at the top forehead, the cheeks and the jaw. • Highlight down the center of your forehead, underneath the eyes on top of the cheekbones and the tip of your chin to draw attention to the middle of your face. • Contour your hairline at the two corners by your temples and the jaw at the two corners. • Apply blush on the apples of your cheeks to help draw attention away from the corners of the square and help widen the area and make it appear more oval.

Heart-Shaped Face • Wide at the forehead and curves down to a pointed or narrow chin, similar to an inverted triangle. • Highlight the chin to help broaden it. Highlight the forehead and underneath the eyes on top of the cheekbones to draw attention to the center of the face. • Contour the temples and cheeks to diminish the width of this portion of the face.

Pear-Shaped Face • Narrow at the temples and forehead, and wider at the jaw line. • Highlight the forehead to create the illusion of width, and highlight underneath the eyes on top of the cheekbones and the tip of the chin. • Contour the jaw line and the cheeks to minimize width.

Long Face • High cheekbones, a high and deep forehead. Strong, sharp, chiseled jaw line. • NEVER highlight or contour this face. It will only make the face appear longer. • Brush a bit of bronzer across the chin to help shorten the length. • Be generous with blush and place a lot of color on the apples of the cheeks. This will help widen and shorten the face. When applying blush, start closer in on the apples of the cheeks and brush outward across the face. • Bangs can also help shorten the length of the face.

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Highlighting and Skin Tone • Ivory to Beige tones: contour more than highlight • Ebony to Bronze tones: highlight more than contour • DO NOT contour with Bronzing Beads or a Bronzing Powder that has sheen.

Loose Powder As with foundation and concealer, a face powder with yellow or neutral undertones is usually the best choice. • Loose powder has more oil absorbers than TWDC • MK does not make a translucent powder because translucent have an ashy effect. • MK’s darker loose powder shades leave a pretty sheen. • Loose powder will not darker like TWDC • If foundation is used under the eyes instead of concealer, dip your finger in loose powder, wipe off excess, and pat under the eye on top of the foundation. • This is how you should interpret the shade names: o Light Ivory - use as you would an ivory shade o Ivory - use as a light beige shade. The yellow undertone makes skin look younger. o Beige - is Beige o Golden Bronze - use on light golden bronze; specialty powder for bronze skin tones. o Light Bronze - use as a bronze o Bronze - use as an ebony shade

Blushes ƒ Bronze Sands – great for contouring Ivory/Beige skin tones ƒ Burnished Bronze – great for highlighting dark skin because it has a sheen ƒ Plum Dazzle and Brick should be used by Blacks ONLY. ƒ Fool Proof Colors: Sunny Spice for Ivory and Beige skin tones ƒ Brick for Bronze skin Tones ƒ Blush Duets are designed to offer your customers 3 shades for the price of one. ƒ Over 12 – Peach or warm shades, Under 12 – Pinks………..Apple Popping: Apricot Breeze ƒ You find the ideal position for applying blush by placing the index finger on the apple of the cheek and the thumb at the uppermost point where the ear meets the head.

6 Lip Pencils • Use lip liner to define lips & prevent bleeding. Lipstick will last longer if pencil is used all over lips. • Dusty Pink is the perfect shade to build a fuller lip. RJ would like to see MK drop the word PINK. • Dark Chocolate is for bronze ebony skin tone ONLY. • Metallic (very brown), works on very dark beige or light bronze skin tones. • Alkaline level changes a lip color. Shift lipstick and liner to other side of color level if this happens (cool to warm, or warm to cool).

Lipsticks • Mary Kay has the longest wearing cream formula of lipstick on the market. • Ebony/Bronze skin tone specific: Downtown Brown, Hot Fudge, Jazzy Plum, Brownie and Grapefull. • Exfoliate lips once a week • Brighter, warmer colors make you look younger • Putting lipstick straight from the tube will not blend your lip liner. You should always blend the liner with a brush toward the center of the lip. • Paler colors illuminate and make lips appear fuller and more youthful, while dark colors have a minimizing effect, making lips appear smaller.

These are layering colors: Intensity Controller Silver Sand (Status Shimmer) Pink Shimmer Gold Dust Mocha Freeze

How to make thin lips look fuller: Erase natural lip line with concealer Use lip liner just above top lip & slightly below bottom lip Fill in lips except for center Dab light concealer in middle of top and bottom lips Apply a layering lip color in the center on top of concealer Put shiny gloss in the center of lips.

Choosing a lip color shade: Ask “What size are my lips?” Dark shades make thin lips look thinner. Ask “What is my skin tone?” and “What am I wearing?”

*Tips* If a red turns to fuchsia, use Orange Crush underneath

7 Eyebrows • Love them and accept them. Fuller Brows make you look younger • 90% of women need eye brow penciling • Do not correct eye placement via eyebrow trimming • Sharpen your pencil each time you use it

• 3 pivotal points to help shape brows: o The line from the edge of your nostril straight up to the inner corner of your eye = brow line starts here o The line from the edge of your nostril straight up and through outer iris = where line meets brow=peek of brow, highest point of arch o The line from the edge of your nostril straight to the outer corner of eye = where brow should end

• Don’t wax your eyebrows – too damaging on skin – can cause your eye area to age faster! • Trim length before tweezing, don’t tweeze above brows • Brow color should be the same shade or lighter than your hair • A matte eye shadow color may be used as a brow powder (Java, Whipped Cocoa, Hazelnut. Along with a pencil you will increase wearing time. • To numb area: Ambesol, Orajel, ice. • “Threading” = A Middle Eastern Technique for hair removal that is great for removing facial hair/cleaning up eyebrows • Tweeze after a shower, in natural light, in the direction the hair grows, and never tweeze • above the arch. As you tweeze, alternate sides to make brows even. • If you ever see white dots on your pencils it’s because they got hot at some point and some of the wax came to the surface. They are still good.

Eye Pencils • They are water resistant. This means they are ideal for splashing-not dunking! • DO NOT wear bottom liner without lining the top. • Eye liners are only for the eyes – it’s a different formula than other liner pencils. • Liquid liners are more dramatic and may not be for older women. • Use the eye pencil and then put eye shadow over the same line for a longer lasting effect. • To form a tip with the eye pencil, warm them with fingertips to a point.

8 The Eyes and Eye Shadows • Determine the eye area’s characteristics: Hooded eyes, wide set eyes, small eyes, close • set eyes, prominent eyes, and droopy eyes.

• For eyeglass wearers, consider what goes on behind the glasses. If the prescription is strong then eye makeup colors will be intensified. Less is best.

• Frosteds are not good for people who have fine lines. Currant Craze, Sugarplum, and Crystalline.

• Shimmers are for everyone, and they give sheer color.

• Eyesicles are shimmers and work best as a shadow base. It intensifies any color you put over it. They are tested to use all over face except lips. Apply eyesicles with an applicator for even coverage. *Tip* Use vanilla eyesicles as a facial highlighter mixed with a little foundation. The mixing ratio is 3 parts foundation/1 part vanilla eyesicle.

Basic Eye Color Application: The first place you place your applicator is where the highest concentration of color will be. Three shades to shape an eye: highlighters, midtones & accents.

• Highlight – shimmer more dramatic – brow bone & lid • Midtone – usually matte, most natural – reflection of their skin. Start at outside in entire crease • Accent – darkest of the 3 – most exciting sideward v just blending into midtone on crease • Apply pencil liner after midtone but before accent – softens it • Use accent color underneath eye as liner o Liner – darkest & thickest outside corner getting thinner as it goes in fade it away don’t stop half way – go all the way across.

• If you line on inside soft tissue it closes the eye • If you want to enlarge eye take midtone above the crease line. If eyes are not the same compromise somewhere in the middle

• If customers experience redness & itching, it could be due to the red dyes. It is very common.

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Eye Shapes

Hooded Eye • Try to get rid of look of fleshy skin • Don’t use highlighter from lid to brow for hooded eyes • Midtone- up & over fleshy skin • Accent – in further & up higher than normal Naturally Hooded eye - Asian • Highlight at lashline • Midtone – draw a crease on • Accent – in further up higher • Define lash line – use dry brush & storm & push it into lashes- better than a pencil for this eye shape. Wide Set Eyes • Is one eye width shape apart. If more than that – wide set. Deepen inside corner to draw them closer – layer midtone on inside Small Eyes • Highlight lid • Midtone – up and over fleshy skin • Accent – up higher and in further than normal Deep Set • NEVER do a dark lid!!! • Highlight lid – not brow bone • Midtone – above crease – already deep enough • Accent – up on brow bone not in crease • Define lash line • Use brighter color for dramatic look not darker colors Close Set • Keep inside lighter • Don’t bring midtone in as far • Highlight inside underneath – moonstone • Accent – normal application Prominent Eyes (bulging) • NEVER highlight lid • Midtone all over lid up to browbone • Accent all over lid up to crease • Blend Dark up to light Droopy Eyes • Don’t bring color all the way out – makes eye look smaller, don’t say they have droopy eyes • Focus on inner lashes • Start midtone a little further in & accent color

10 EYE LASHES • Curl, curl, curl, curl, curl • Need a new curler every year & a new rubber piece every 6 months – use before mascara • Start at base & work your way out

APPLYING MASCARA • The brush makes a difference. The curved brush will help keep lashes curved. The straight brush helps thicken. • If you want thicker lashes start at the base of the lash in a horizontal position and wiggle side to side and out. • For longer lashes use the wand in a vertical position and pull up and out. • 3- 6 coats of mascara – allowing 2 minutes drying time • Clean off wand before re-applying

• Endless performance is a building formula. It has special particles that adhere to each lash. • Flawless & Waterproof are defining formulas. They will just coat lashes with color. • One look to try that is softer - Black on top. Brown on bottom. Minking, brown first tip in black.

• As endless performance ages it starts to flake – you need a new tube every 2 months. A layer of waterproof over endless performance will help prevent flaking. • Waterproof is harshest of all • Colored mascara is normally worn by teens. • Baby shampoo on oily lashes in shower to cleanse them if mascara is running all the time

BRIDAL

• Don’t do anything trendy! Go with classic beauty. How your pictures will look is key.

Morning Bride: Needs to be THE most natural. (Less is definitely more.) You will photograph glamorously due to the light. Light at this time is cooler with a blue tint. Stay away from blue/cool hues. Go light on powder and foundation. It’s not a good time for blemished skin. Go with lighter shade choices. Blend SUPER well. (Blend twice!!!) Define well at the lash line. False lashes are best. Use a soft lip color.

Mid-Day Bride (Noon-3PM): The harshest light of the day. Eyes can appear really dark and deep set. Chose matte colors and foundation. Any sheen will photograph like grease. Blush should be matte as well. Not the best time for blemished skin. Highlight shade is THE most important. (SHIMMER!!!) Always one or two shades should be matte. Usually the midtone or accent color. Stay really close the lash lines if using eyeliner. False lashes are best! Crème blush is a good option unless they have oily skin. BLEND WELL! (Do it twice!)

Late Afternoon Bride (4PM-Dark): Light is known as “Jesus Light”. It’s a good time for less than perfect skin. Always look towards the light. It’s ok to use slightly more dramatic colors. Warm skin with bronzer or blush to keep the flash from washing you out. Shimmers are ok but make sure one or two colors are matte. False lashes SHOULD be worn. Darker lip colors are ok.

11 Evening Bride: This is the perfect time for your “drama queens”! You can wear a lot of makeup and will still photograph naturally. Define well with your blush/bronzer and at the lash line. You can wash out easier due to the flash. It’s a good time for flawed skin. Contouring is a MUST. Shimmers are ok but NO frosts. False eyelashes are a MUST! The smoky eye is ok in the evening but go with a soft lip color.

Page 40 of the special occasions book has a great checklist of bridal must haves. Loose/pressed powder. Use loose first to help keep oil down and to stay fresh longer. Leave touch up items in the groom’s pocket. They won’t get lost and will always be near by. Have 2 tubes of lipstick/gloss one for her makeup bag and one for his pocket.

Do not experiment on the wedding day. Use a Polaroid or digital camera and practice different looks to see how different changes will affect the pictures.

Page 42 has tips for doing a perfect sunless tan.

Getting foundation to last longer: Apply moisturizer to even skin and let dry. Blot with tissue especially in the T-zone. Can use oil mattifer if needed. Apply concealer/foundation. Blot with tissue if using cream to powder formula or day radiance. Use loose powder to finish. You can apply pressed powder at this point if you’d like.

Getting eye makeup to last longer: Eye primer, then concealer (only a tiny bit), loose powder, and then apply color.

Lashes: CURL, CURL, CURL!!! Layer mascara or use false lashes. Page 48 shows how to apply false lashes. Use Endless to build then add a layer of Waterproof mascara to waterproof Endless.

Applying false lashes: (Order #110 on his site.) Curl your natural lashes. Lay a mirror flat on the table. Look down. Use eyeliner along the upper lash line to help hide imperfect lash application. Trim the lashes, about 2-3 hairs off the end, and apply lash adhesive. (Surgical adhesive called Duo works great too.) Make sure adhesive is not semi-permanent or you may take off lashes if not removed properly. Let adhesive dry until sticky. Put lashes to lash line and stay looking down while they dry. Apply mascara to blend lashes together.

Getting lipstick to last longer: Erase the natural lip line with concealer. Apply lip outliner to outside of lips. Line lips with liner. Fill in lips with liner. Apply lip color. Blot to remove moisture. Apply lip color again. Apply gloss if using. Dark lips are not good for a wedding unless that is her every day look. Definitely NOT if she has a wide mouth.

Bridesmaids should be the opposite of the bride. If the bride wears her hair up theirs should be down or visa versa. The intensity of their makeup should match. They don’t have to wear the same colors but one shouldn’t wear Red Salsa while another wears hardly any makeup at all. The should NEVER look better than the bride!

Photography tips are covered in the book.

Evening tips are also in the book. 3 new eye application techniques. Take a day look into the evening. Diagram for the smoky eye. Audrey Hepburn eyes. The sparking eye effect.

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