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food&drink 23 November 2013 23 November Telegraph Love at first bite All you need for your Christmas table SHEEPSKINS: MØBELLOFTET (0047 240-6521). CHRISTMAS BISCUITS: MIKAEL FORSELIUS. VINTAGE GLASSWARE LENT BY ZIIR KAFÉ ZIIR BY LENT GLASSWARE VINTAGE FORSELIUS. MIKAEL BISCUITS: CHRISTMAS 240-6521). (0047 MØBELLOFTET SHEEPSKINS: contents EDITOR MICHELE LAVERY 6 Let the feast begin The Norwegian chef Mikael Forselius guides us through Christmas Eve, Christmas Day and Boxing Day. DEPUTY EDITOR KATHRYN HOLLIDAY 23 The sweetest things All the chocolate you could possibly wish for. 26 Ten degrees of frosting Cooks including Rose Prince, Paul Hollywood and Nigel Slater share their 10 favourite recipes for seasonal cakes, pies and biscuits. PHOTOGRAPHER Emma Hardy ASSISTANT David Hampton 34 Be merry Hamish Anderson chooses the wine. 37 Special delivery The best of the season’s food, brought to your door. PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Kristin Svanaes 42 Hampers to pamper Boxes of delights CHEF Mikael Forselius (mikaelforselius.no) FOOD PHOTOGRAPHER Laura Hynd PROP STYLISTS Karoline Fæmundshytten and Tina Forselius at Essence Røros Thanks to Linda M Ramberg at Destination Røros (roros.no), Gunhild Sun Bellsli, Brendan Coote, the mayor (essenceroros.blogspot.no) of Røros Hans Vintervold, Anne Line Kaxrud at Innovation Norway, Sarah Dean, Jo Henning Kolstad, Robin Schellenberg at Potteriet Røros (potteriet-roros.no), Røros Husflidsutsalg (roroshandelsstand.no/index. ART DIRECTOR Gary Cochran php/medlemmer/husflidenrorosdraktstuggu), Vertshuset (vertshusetroros.no). Norwegian flies direct PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR Cheryl Newman PRODUCTION EDITOR Jeremy Farr from London Gatwick to Trondheim and Oslo. Widerøe (Star Alliance) flies direct from Oslo to Røros. DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR Danielle Campbell The team stayed at Røros Hotel (roroshotell.no) and Erzscheidergården (erzscheidergaarden.no) Cover and contents Photographs by Emma Hardy © Telegraph Magazine 2013. Published by Telegraph Media Group Limited, 111 Buckingham Palace Road, London SW1W 0DT (020-7931 2000) and printed by Polestar Sheffield. Colour reproduction by Group FMG. Not to be sold separately from The Daily Telegraph There’s a tradition that if you live on a farm, like I grew up on, you have to leave a big bowl for the man who guards the animals – he is a myth, but it’s very important to treat him well Shot on location at Rørosrein reindeer farm (rorosrein.no). Passengers: Maya Selboe-Coote, Vilja Bellsli Reinskou, Jesper Norvik, Jacob Herud Boothman, Sigve Ødegård, Julia Veldhuis, Jens Veldhuis Run, Rudolph, run Few places conjure the spirit of Christmas quite like Røros, a historic town in the mountains of eastern Norway. But wherever you are celebrating, you can recreate the Scandinavian magic in the company of the chef Mikael Forselius, whose recipes will carry you on a wave of indulgence from Christmas Eve to Boxing Day. Let the feast begin – and don’t be late 6 TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK 7 WEED.COM). CLOTHES BY UGLY KIDS (UGLYKIDS.COM) UGLY BY CLOTHES WEED.COM). The tradition in Christmas Eve and boil slowly for 20 minutes. Carpaccio of beef with Set aside to cool. KINS AND FURS: MØBELLOFTET (0047 240 6521). CHRISTMAS DECORATIONS: SOLOPPGANGEN (SOLOPPGANGEN.NO). BLANKETS: RØROS BLANKETS: (ROROST TWEED (SOLOPPGANGEN.NO). SOLOPPGANGEN DECORATIONS: CHRISTMAS 6521). 240 (0047 MØBELLOFTET FURS: AND KINS Norway on Christmas red onion marmalade and sour Whip the sour cream until stiff. Eve is to go to church cream with horseradish Add the horseradish. Season with at 3pm, then go home, All recipes serve 4 salt and pepper. To serve, put a spoonful of the start with some ● 400g beef sirloin, trimmed marmalade on the meat, then add gløgg – warmed wine ● 2 tsp salt a dollop of the horseradish sour cream, with spice – and ● 5ml olive oil and garnish with chopped chives. ● 5ml red wine vinegar a piece of cake. ● chives, to serve Then we have dinner around 5pm for the red onion marmalade ● 2 red onions, peeled and chopped ● 20ml red wine vinegar ● 100ml orange juice ● 3 tsp sugar Hamish Anderson’s wine choice for the sour cream 2012 Pecorino Terre di ● 200ml sour cream Chieti, Abruzzo, Italy £9.99, ● 20g horseradish, finely grated Marks & Spencer Pecorino is found mostly in Abruzzo At about 8pm, just Salt the meat and wrap it in clingfilm. and a few years ago was all but extinct. as the children With a rolling pin roll it as smooth as Named not after the cheese but possible. Place it in the freezer for about supposedly because its grape bunches are getting tired, Father an hour. Take the now slightly frozen resemble a sheep’s udder (pecora: sheep), Christmas comes meat out and cut it into thin slices. Divide it has a distinct, subtle perfume that with the presents and between four dinner plates. Mix the grows in the glass. This version has more olive oil and vinegar and brush the meat. weight than many and as such will make the children perk To make the red onion marmalade, a happy partner to both the carpaccio SHOT AT RASMUSGÅRDEN (OLD.FORTIDSMINNEFORENINGEN.NO/PROPERTIES/58/110). WOODEN TOYS: HOPPSALANTAN WOODEN TOYS: (HOPPSALANTAN.NO). REINDEER S RASMUSGÅRDENSHOT AT (OLD.FORTIDSMINNEFORENINGEN.NO/PROPERTIES/58/110). up again mix all ingredients together in a pan and the halibut (recipe overleaf). 8 TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK 9 Halibut served with butter sauce and braised carrots with rosemary and apple cider ● 800g halibut fillet cut in 4 steaks ● 50g unsalted butter ● 1 large shallot, minced ● 120ml fresh orange juice ● 2 tbsp white wine vinegar Preheat the grill to medium-high. In a saucepan, melt one tablespoon of butter over a medium heat. Add the shallot and half a teaspoon of salt and cook, stirring, until softened (about three minutes). Pour in the orange juice and vinegar and bring to the boil. Cook until thick and syrupy (about five minutes). Remove from the heat. In a shallow baking pan, arrange the fish, skin-side down; sprinkle with a quarter of a teaspoon of salt and some pepper. Grill for about six minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. Transfer the fish to a platter and keep warm. Return the reserved orange-shallot mixture to a simmer over a medium heat. Gradually add the remaining butter, whisking in a little at a time until incorporated and warm (about five minutes). Pour the sauce over the fish and serve with new potatoes and the braised carrots (below). for the braised carrots ● 400g carrots, peeled and sliced ● 1 large shallot, minced ● 20g butter ● 10g fresh rosemary ● 100ml dry apple cider Put all the ingredients in a pan and slowly cook for 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and serve. Christmas Eve dinner is the most important of the three days; it’s the one you have with your close family TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK 11 Classic Norwegian caramel pudding for the caramel ● 175g sugar for the custard ● 1 litre milk ● 1 vanilla pod, split ● 6 eggs ● 115g sugar to serve ● 400ml double cream ● 20g sugar Preheat the oven to 125C/gas mark . To make the caramel, put the sugar in a large heavy-based frying pan. Heat slowly without stirring, moving the pan backwards and forwards on the heat until the sugar melts and forms a golden caramel. Brush the insides of a 20x10cm mould with the caramel until coated. To make the custard, place the milk and vanilla pod in a large pan and bring to just below boiling point. Pour into a jug and set aside to cool. Beat the eggs in a bowl and gradually beat in the sugar. Remove the vanilla pod from the milk and stir the milk into the egg mixture. Place the mould in a roasting tin and strain the mixture through a fine sieve into the mould. Pour boiling water into the roasting tin until it comes halfway up the sides of the mould. Place the tin in the oven and cook for 30 minutes or until a knife inserted in the centre of the custard comes out clean. Remove the mould from the roasting tin, cool and then chill for several hours. Whip the cream and sugar. Turn the pudding out of the mould, and serve with the cream and Cape gooseberries, if you have them. Wine choice 2008 Royak Tokaji 5 Puttonyos, Hungary £19.99, 50cl, Majestic Good Tokaji with its flavours of toffee and marmalade is always a sure match with anything that has caramel in it, and as ever with the best wines there is a gorgeous interplay between luscious sweetness and lip-smacking, palate-cleansing acidity. Even though my family are Swedish my grandmother used to make this classic Norwegian caramel pudding when I was a small child TELEGRAPH FOOD & DRINK 13 Christmas Day Refrigerate the salmon for three days, On Christmas morning Cured salmon with mustard turning it every 24 hours and basting it sauce and marinaded cucumber with the liquid that collects. we have porridge I make this three days in advance. Lay each piece of salmon flat on a for breakfast and we put cutting board, remove the bunch one whole almond ● 1.4kg fresh salmon fillet, centre cut – the of dill, and sprinkle the top with chopped thick part of the fish dill. With a long thin knife, slice the in the pot. Whoever gets ● 2 large bunches of dill (1 chopped for salmon thinly. the almond in their serving) Combine the mustards, sugar and bowl gets the luck ● 115g salt vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in ● 115g sugar the oil and stir in the chopped dill. Peel ● 2 tbsp white peppercorns, crushed the cucumber, cut it in half lengthways and remove the seeds, then slice it. for the mustard sauce and cucumber Mix the cucumber in the mustard sauce ● 30g mustard and serve with the cured salmon.

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