TALLINN, ESTONIA TALLINN, ESTONIA APRIL 25, 2017 APRIL 25, 2017 TECHNICAL OVERVIEWTECHNICAL ON CIDER PRODUCTION
TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION 23 23
LALLEMAND OENOLOGY LALLEMAND OENOLOGY TALLINN, ESTONIA, APRIL 25, 2017
TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION
PROCEEDINGS OF THE XXVIIes ENTRETIENS SCIENTIFIQUES LALLEMAND ISBN 978-2-9815255-8-1 (printed version) ISBN 978-2-9815255-9-8 (pdf version)
Legal deposit Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec 2018 Library and Archives Canada 2018 DISCLAIMER: Lallemand has compiled the information contained herein and, to the best of its knowledge, the information is true and accurate. Lallemand offers this publication for use by winemaking professionals world- wide as a compendium of existing knowledge, both scientific and anecdotal. It is the user’s sole responsibility to determine whether any of the information contained herein is of benefit. The information, techniques and procedures presented in this publication are not to be considered as any type of expressed or implied guarantee for any aspect of the winemaking process in any wine-producing country. Lallemand Inc. Montréal, Canada H1W 2N8 The reprint or digital publication of any part of this book without permission from Lallemand is prohibited and illegal. CONTENTS
CIDER
CIDER: AN ANCIENT ART CIDERMAKING VS. WINEMAKING - IS THERE A IN A MODERN WORLD...... 5 DIFFERENCE?...... 19 Rebecca Mussell Amanda Stewart
A TECHNICAL OVERVIEW OF FRENCH CIDER: LOCAL IMPORTANCE OF CIDER PRODUCTION IN FROM SPOILAGE CONTROL TO AROMATIC PROFILE ESTONIA (LOCAL PRODUCER SIIDRIKODA AS A PILOT CHARACTERIZATION...... 9 PLANT FOR SCALE-UP YEAST APPLICATION)...... 25 H. Guichard, P. Poupard, Jean-Michel Le Quéré and Rain Kuldjärv R. Bauduin PREVIOUS AND ONGOING CIDER RESEARCH AT AUSTRALIAN CIDER: LEARNING FROM THE PAST, CFFT (AIMS, METHODOLOGY, RESULTS, HIDDEN MOVING INTO THE FUTURE THROUGH INDUSTRY- POTENTIAL)...... 27 EMBEDDED RESEARCH...... 17 Julia Rosend Fiona Kerslake
– 3 –
CIDER, AN ANCIENT ART IN A MODERN WORLD
Rebecca Mussell Westons Cider, Herefordshire, U.K.
Cider has been produced in the Herefordshire village of Cider is the national drink of the U.K., and throughout its Much Marcle since 1878. It represents a huge part of the long history one thing has always remained constant – the region’s heritage and, even in its modern form, still retains apple. Over the years many aspects of cider production its traditional characteristics. Much Marcle is the home have changed and while certain aspects of the process of Westons Cider, an independent, family-owned cider would not be immediately recognisable to the cider mak- maker producing 42 million litres annually. ers of the past, the most consistent factor remains the fruit. It provides the flavour, colour, and aroma of the finished Cider in the U.K. has played a very special part in shaping product. With over 10,000 varieties, there is no fear that the economic and social fabric of the nation and, while the apple will be replaced. some features of today’s production would be unrecog- nisable to the cider makers of the past, many would re- West Country Cider is traditionally made using French- main familiar. Three key areas have shaped the industry origin apples known as bittersweets, bittersharps, sharps, and created what we see today: research, technology, and and sweets. Bittersweets and bittersharps have high po- collaboration. tential sugar, high acidity (that can be sour), a fibrous
mg/L of tannin Dabinett Yarlington Mill Michelin edfield Golden usset Harrison Granny Smith mg/L Idared Fuji Golden Delicious 0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 Source: A Lea 2016
Figure 1. Key research by noted expert Andrew Lea, assessment of tannin variation mg/L, by variety. – 5 – TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION
structure that can feel woolly when eaten, the ability to the world’s cider, with the remainder of Europe collective- continue maturing without degrading – thus allowing ly consuming 21%, and North America and the Middle greater starch-to-sugar conversion – and also a high level East both responsible for 10%, respectively. of tannins. Tannins are complex flavonoid polyphenols Historically cider makers would use their instincts or even that cause fruits to brown as they oxidise. They are the experiment with different methods or recipes. Cider was distinguishing feature of traditional English ciders, be- tasted, not tested, and the only discussions that took place ing both bitter and astringent. From a processing point of were either between family members or at the local pub. view, the polyphenols inhibit the breakdown of pectin, National trade bodies such as the NACM (National As- making the fruit easier to press. sociation of Cider Makers [U.K.]) or the AICV (European U.K. cider making has had to become much more inno- Cider & Fruit Wine Association) provide cider makers with vative to satisfy the complex and increasingly discern- an open forum for honest and industry-beneficial discus- ing palates of cider consumers. This has been achieved sion where they can share best practices and co-invest in by blending ancient traditions with modern methods fundamental research projects. and technologies. Research has been crucial to better In 2003 family cider maker Bulmers was purchased by understanding the craft of cider making – for example, Scottish & Newcastle Brewery. Shortly after this, in 2008, understanding the components of apple juice enables ci- it was bought by Heineken, and in 2016 Rekorderlig ci- der makers to ascertain where the flavour comes from. der was purchased by Molson Coors. The industry has be- By better managing the variables to make a more consis- come increasingly globalised with consolidation coming tent product, we can also understand what we may need from the very top. It is likely that the coming years will see to add to the press or the fermentation to produce the greater mergers and acquisitions. The input of the brew- best possible results. While this new understanding of the ers has altered the way that some larger companies now raw components of the product has been revolutionary produce their cider. Gone is the seasonal product with an- to the industry, understanding the global cider consumer, nual fermentation using freshly pressed juice. Producers via consumer insight, has also had a major effect on the are now opting to evaporate juice to create a year-round marketplace. fermentation programme.
The industry has seen many periods of growth, and the Brewers have also driven investment into the sector, and most sustained period of growth began in 2000 with the with investment we see greater developments in cider ‘cider over ice’ renaissance fuelled by Magners. Today making technology. Hand harvesting has been replaced the U.K. cider industry is worth £2.88 billion per annum, by machine harvesting, hand pressing has been replaced which equates to 787 million litres and shows a year-on- by hydraulic automated cider presses, and wild yeast has year increase of 2.1%. The U.K. market consumes 45% of been replaced by specially selected and carefully nur-
25 21.0 20 16.8
15 11.5 11.0
10 6.1 5.8 5.3 5.2 4.8 3.0 5 2.2 1.8 1.0 0.5 0.4 -1.0 -1.9 -2.8 -3.0 -3.8 0
Spain -5 Austria Canada Sweden Norway Estonia Belgium Australia Germany Netherlands South Africa Switzerland New ealand France Finland Lithuania Denmark United Kingdom
United States of America epublic of Ireland
Figure 2. Cider Growth by Country (Global Data Sept. 2017)
– 6 – Cider, An Ancient Art in a Modern World tured yeast strains designed to increase efficiency and combined with the recent introduction of the soft drinks consistency. Filtration is believed to have benefited the levy, has enhanced requirements for more transparent most from technological advancement; The introduction product packaging, including full ingredient and nutri- of cross-flow filtration effectively eliminated 5 other pro- tional declarations. And reductions in permitted allergens cess steps – centrifugation, fining, powder filtration, sheet such as S02 mean that the industry faces an uncertain and filtration, and depth filtration. increasingly complex future.
The age-old cider industry is facing many threats and The future may be unknown, but it appears to be bring- challenges, and there are now greater links between al- ing its fair share of opportunities and threats for this an- cohol consumption and health. Our consumers have also cient industry. Through a combination of trend and threat changed. Millennials and Generation Xers have different analyses informed by consumer insight and innovation, views on how, when, and where they consume alcohol we can create our own relevant and successful future that – if they do consume it at all. Major brands have seen continually meets the needs of consumers in the 21st cen- serving sizes decrease, from 500 ml cans to 330 ml cans tury and beyond. This is all possible thanks to countless or from pints to half- or one-third-pints. This is a direct hours of research, worthwhile cross-industry collabora- result of modern cider consumers’ thirst for quality over tions, and access to cutting edge technology. This will quantity. make cider making a modern beverage industry that re- tains all the character and quirky traditions of the past Various U.K.-based health lobbying groups are demonis- while embracing the opportunities of the future. No lon- ing cider, in the same way as tobacco. TV advertising and ger an art shrouded in myth and superstition, cider mak- sports sponsorship is already being investigated. This, ing has grown into a veritable science based on research and hard facts.
– 7 –
A TECHNICAL OVERVIEW OF FRENCH CIDER: FROM SPOILAGE CONTROL TO AROMATIC PROFILE CHARACTERIZATION
H. Guichardac*, P. Poupardac, Jean-Michel Le Quérébc and R. Bauduinac a Institut Français des Production Cidricoles, Domaine de la Motte F-35650 Le Rheu, France b INRA, UR1268 BIA- Polyphenols, Reactivity, Processes, Domaine de la Motte, 35650 Le Rheu, France c UMT Novacidre, Domaine de la Motte, F-35653 Le Rheu, France * [email protected]
I. Introduction terpene derivatives, sulfur-containing compounds, and lactones. All these compounds contribute to the aromatic French cider is mainly produced in northwestern France, complexity of cider, based on a subtle balance between with pure fresh fruit juice accounting for a large part of all these volatile compounds. the production. It is a naturally fermented product made from specific polyphenolic-rich cider apples, classified in 6 categories based on flavour. Cider contains between II. French market about 8 and 67 g/L residual sugar. This is mainly due to The French market posts about €400 million in sales and is the particular process used in French cider making, which divided into three main product categories: cider, Calva- involves incomplete fermentation. The main steps of this dos, and juice. Cider volumes total over 100 million litres, process are milling, pressing, keeving, fermentation (with with more than 90% sold in France. This segment is in- 3 main phases: oxidative, fermentative, and maturation), creasing in value thanks to innovating sectors such as rosé fining centrifugation or filtration operations, and bottling and small-bottle ciders, and effective communications ef- (with carbonation or secondary fermentation, also known forts. However, table cider volumes are on the decline. as “prise de mousse”). All these parameters make it a dis- The Calvados market represents around 15,000 hl of pure tinct beverage compared to the cider or hard cider pro- alcohol, with 50% reserved for export. Lastly, apple juice duced in other countries. is a dynamic sector in France with more than 30 million Cider is not an essential food in terms of nutritional con- litres produced and 60% processed in France. France also tribution, despite the fact that it contains nutrients such exports apples and apple musts to northern Europe and as polyphenols, vitamins, and potassium. Good sensory the U.S. The French market is seasonally driven with three quality is important as cider can be considered a festive peak sales periods: Epiphany, Candlemas, and summer. beverage. This study looks at cider composition, especial- ly aroma composition. Part of the aroma is already present III. Specificities of French orchards in the apple juice, stemming from apple cultivar aromas. French orchards were reorganized in the 1980s and 1990s, However, numerous molecules are produced during fer- and new specialized orchards were introduced. Specific mentation that can have an effect on aroma, including existing rustic cider varieties were selected to focus on alcohols such as propanol, isobutanol, isopentanol, ben- alternating varieties with high phenolic or acid contents. zylic alcohols, and 2-phenylethanol (known for its rose These specialized orchards follow the table apple orchard aroma). Yeasts also produce esters during alcoholic fer- model (Figure 1). mentation (e.g., ethyl 3-methylbutyrate, 2-phenylethyl ac- etate, ethyl hexanoate, ethyl octanoate, ethyl decanoate, and many others). Other classes can also be detected as
– 9 – TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION
Figure 1. Changes in French orchards up to 1980 (source: IFPC) The fruits are intended solely for processing, and there are and Kermerrien cultivars, have a high polyphenol content no constraints with regard to appearance. As such, fewer (3 to 9 g.l-1) and low acidity (<60 meq.l-1). Finally, bit- pesticides and other such products are needed in orchard tersharp apples have a high content of acid (>60 meq.l-1 management. Harvest mechanization, with tree shaking and up to 240 meq.l-1) and polyphenols (>2 g.l-1 and up and ground harvesting, reduces operating costs. to 6 g.l-1), but virtually no such cultivars are available in France. These varieties are very different from dessert, IV. Cider apple specificities cooking, and eating apples due to their high polyphenol content, as shown in Figure 2. This diversity, as cider is Apple ciders are classified based on their polyphenol con- always made with a blend of apples with different savory tent and acidity, as shown in Figure 2. There are 6 cat- characteristics, allows for a well-balanced final product. egories described in this classification. Sweet apples have low acidity (<60 meq.l-1) and low polyphenol (<2 g.l-1) content as evidenced by the Dous Coëtligné apple. Sour V. Cider making process apples have a low polyphenol content (<2 g l-1), as do The cider making process starts with transporting the ap- mildly sour (60 to 90 meq.l‑1) apples such as the Locard ples from the silo to be machine-washed in water. After Blanc. Sharp apples, such as the Guillevic or Petit Jaune the apples are sorted by appearance for quality to elimi- cultivars, have a higher acid content (>90 and up to 240 nate rotten fruits, they are ready for milling where they are meq.l-1) and low polyphenol concentration (<2 g l-1). Ap- crushed into small pieces (from 4 to 5 millimetres). In the ples classified in the bittersweet category (e.g., Bedan) are French process, an extra step called “cuvage” can occur considered intermediate cultivars due to their acidity (<60 for 30 minutes to up to 5 hours, leading to oxidation. The meq.l-1) and high total polyphenol content (>2 g.l-1 and pulp is then pressed with different materials, depending <3 g.l-1). Apples that are bitter, such as the Marie Ménard
6 Guillevic ) Marie M nard -1 Kermerrien 5 Bitter 4 Bittersharp Dous Moen 3 Bittersweet 2 Bedan Locard Blanc 1 Sweet Sharp Avrolles
Sour udor Dous Coetligné Dessert, eating apple Total Polyphenol Content (mg L Content Polyphenol Total 0 0 50 100 150 200 250 Petit Jaune
Figure 2. French apple classification by polyphenol content and acidity (from Sanoner and Guyot 1999)
– 10 – A Technical Overview of French Cider: From Spoilage Control to Aromatic Profile Characterization
Table 1. Common characteristics of must and contribution to the process and final product
Component Content Contribution Sugars Sensory: sweet taste 95 to 130 g/L (fructose, glucose, saccharose Technology: fermentation substrate Acids 1 to 10 g/L Sensory: acid taste (malic acid) expressed in g/L of H2SO4 Technology: conservation, limitation of spoilage Sensory: bitterness, astringency, colour Polyphenols 1 to 5 g/L Technology: oxygen consumption Nitrogenous components 30 to 300 mg/L Sensory: aroma generation (amino acids) expressed in mg/L of nitrogen Technology: stability in bottle Pectin 0.3 to 1.3 g/L Technology: participation in keeving process Minerals From a few mb/L to few g/L Technology: precipitates (Fe: black; Cu: green) Enzymes (PME, PPO) Traces Technology: PME; keeving PPO; polyphenol oxidation on the size of the producer. The common characteristics 2. Fermentation of the must obtained are shown in Table 1. The fermentation step (Figure 4), which in France relies 1. Settling or keeving on natural flora, begins with an oxidative phase where the In the French process, there is a specific step to make a gel main action is triggered by oxidative yeast in anaerobio- after enzyme action based on pectin ability. The calcium sis. Oxygen flow is highly beneficial for this flora at the needed for gel formation is either naturally occurring or beginning of fermentation, leading to a limited growth of can be added with the PME enzyme. Demethylation of Saccharomyces during this step. This stage is considered the linear chain of homogalacturonan units in pectin en- very important because this is when fruity aromas are gen- ables bonding with calcium, which leads to gel formation. erated. This step can occur after 2 to 6 days and is activated by Alcoholic fermentation is a non-total process, meaning CO2 generation at the beginning of fermentation, which that the main goal is to yield a final product with a re- helps the gel rise to the top of the tank. This phenomenon sidual sugar content. This fermentation is conducted by leads to the formation of a complex, nitrogen-rich suspen- Saccharomyces for 1 to 3 months at a moderate speed, sion called the “chapeau brun” (Figure 3). Dregs and mud as the level of population is relatively low at under 5x107 also deposit on the bottom of the tank. cfu/ml, and with oxygen deficiency. Fermentation speed The clear must located between the gel and sediment lay- is often slowed by biomass reduction. Yeast assimilable ers is then transferred to a different tank to stop the fer- nitrogen (YAN) depletion is a technological goal to keep mentation step. non-pasteurized products with different sugar levels sta- ble all year long. As with wine, malolactic transformation A new continuous dynamic system known as “flotation,” can occur due to bacterial growth in cider. Since malic where the juice is processed within 48 hours, can be also acid is the major acid at play, this step has a bigger impact be used. The juice is placed in a specific device with ni- on cider characteristics because the pH is altered. In this trogen bubbling in the presence of CaCl2. case, bacterial development can occur more easily. Dur-
Chapeau brun eceiving vat
Transfer valves Clear must{ Dregs and mud Pump
Figure 3: Keeving process in French cider production
– 11 – TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION
1060 in Ferment tion tur tion 160 1050 140
Yeast 120 1040 Fermentative 100
1030 Flora Yeast 80 Yeast Flora Yeast Bacterial Flora End of Fermentation End 60 1020 Beginning of Fermentation