TALLINN, ESTONIA TALLINN, ESTONIA APRIL 25, 2017 APRIL 25, 2017 TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION TECHNICAL OVERVIEW TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION 23 23 LALLEMAND OENOLOGY LALLEMAND OENOLOGY TALLINN, ESTONIA, APRIL 25, 2017 TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION PROCEEDINGS OF THE XXVIIes ENTRETIENS SCIENTIFIQUES LALLEMAND ISBN 978-2-9815255-8-1 (printed version) ISBN 978-2-9815255-9-8 (pdf version) Legal deposit Bibliothèque et Archives nationales du Québec 2018 Library and Archives Canada 2018 DISCLAIMER: Lallemand has compiled the information contained herein and, to the best of its knowledge, the information is true and accurate. Lallemand offers this publication for use by winemaking professionals world- wide as a compendium of existing knowledge, both scientific and anecdotal. It is the user’s sole responsibility to determine whether any of the information contained herein is of benefit. The information, techniques and procedures presented in this publication are not to be considered as any type of expressed or implied guarantee for any aspect of the winemaking process in any wine-producing country. Lallemand Inc. Montréal, Canada H1W 2N8 The reprint or digital publication of any part of this book without permission from Lallemand is prohibited and illegal. CONTENTS CIDER CIDER: AN ANCIENT ART CIDERMAKING VS. WINEMAKING - IS THERE A IN A MODERN WORLD ............................................5 DIFFERENCE? ...........................................................19 Rebecca Mussell Amanda Stewart A TECHNICAL OVERVIEW OF FRENCH CIDER: LOCAL IMPORTANCE OF CIDER PRODUCTION IN FROM SPOILAGE CONTROL TO AROMATIC PROFILE ESTONIA (LOCAL PRODUCER SIIDRIKODA AS A PILOT CHARACTERIZATION ................................................9 PLANT FOR SCALE-UP YEAST APPLICATION) .........25 H. Guichard, P. Poupard, Jean-Michel Le Quéré and Rain Kuldjärv R. Bauduin PREVIOUS AND ONGOING CIDER RESEARCH AT AUSTRALIAN CIDER: LEARNING FROM THE PAST, CFFT (AIMS, METHODOLOGY, RESULTS, HIDDEN MOVING INTO THE FUTURE THROUGH INDUSTRY- POTENTIAL) .............................................................27 EMBEDDED RESEARCH ...........................................17 Julia Rosend Fiona Kerslake – 3 – CIDER, AN ANCIENT ART IN A MODERN WORLD Rebecca Mussell Westons Cider, Herefordshire, U.K. Cider has been produced in the Herefordshire village of Cider is the national drink of the U.K., and throughout its Much Marcle since 1878. It represents a huge part of the long history one thing has always remained constant – the region’s heritage and, even in its modern form, still retains apple. Over the years many aspects of cider production its traditional characteristics. Much Marcle is the home have changed and while certain aspects of the process of Westons Cider, an independent, family-owned cider would not be immediately recognisable to the cider mak- maker producing 42 million litres annually. ers of the past, the most consistent factor remains the fruit. It provides the flavour, colour, and aroma of the finished Cider in the U.K. has played a very special part in shaping product. With over 10,000 varieties, there is no fear that the economic and social fabric of the nation and, while the apple will be replaced. some features of today’s production would be unrecog- nisable to the cider makers of the past, many would re- West Country Cider is traditionally made using French- main familiar. Three key areas have shaped the industry origin apples known as bittersweets, bittersharps, sharps, and created what we see today: research, technology, and and sweets. Bittersweets and bittersharps have high po- collaboration. tential sugar, high acidity (that can be sour), a fibrous mg/L of tannin Dabinett Yarlington Mill Michelin Redfield Golden Russet Harrison Granny Smith mg/L Idared Fuji Golden Delicious 0 500 1000 1500 2000 2500 Source: A Lea 2016 FIGURE 1. Key research by noted expert Andrew Lea, assessment of tannin variation mg/L, by variety. – 5 – TECHNICAL OVERVIEW ON CIDER PRODUCTION structure that can feel woolly when eaten, the ability to the world’s cider, with the remainder of Europe collective- continue maturing without degrading – thus allowing ly consuming 21%, and North America and the Middle greater starch-to-sugar conversion – and also a high level East both responsible for 10%, respectively. of tannins. Tannins are complex flavonoid polyphenols Historically cider makers would use their instincts or even that cause fruits to brown as they oxidise. They are the experiment with different methods or recipes. Cider was distinguishing feature of traditional English ciders, be- tasted, not tested, and the only discussions that took place ing both bitter and astringent. From a processing point of were either between family members or at the local pub. view, the polyphenols inhibit the breakdown of pectin, National trade bodies such as the NACM (National As- making the fruit easier to press. sociation of Cider Makers [U.K.]) or the AICV (European U.K. cider making has had to become much more inno- Cider & Fruit Wine Association) provide cider makers with vative to satisfy the complex and increasingly discern- an open forum for honest and industry-beneficial discus- ing palates of cider consumers. This has been achieved sion where they can share best practices and co-invest in by blending ancient traditions with modern methods fundamental research projects. and technologies. Research has been crucial to better In 2003 family cider maker Bulmers was purchased by understanding the craft of cider making – for example, Scottish & Newcastle Brewery. Shortly after this, in 2008, understanding the components of apple juice enables ci- it was bought by Heineken, and in 2016 Rekorderlig ci- der makers to ascertain where the flavour comes from. der was purchased by Molson Coors. The industry has be- By better managing the variables to make a more consis- come increasingly globalised with consolidation coming tent product, we can also understand what we may need from the very top. It is likely that the coming years will see to add to the press or the fermentation to produce the greater mergers and acquisitions. The input of the brew- best possible results. While this new understanding of the ers has altered the way that some larger companies now raw components of the product has been revolutionary produce their cider. Gone is the seasonal product with an- to the industry, understanding the global cider consumer, nual fermentation using freshly pressed juice. Producers via consumer insight, has also had a major effect on the are now opting to evaporate juice to create a year-round marketplace. fermentation programme. The industry has seen many periods of growth, and the Brewers have also driven investment into the sector, and most sustained period of growth began in 2000 with the with investment we see greater developments in cider ‘cider over ice’ renaissance fuelled by Magners. Today making technology. Hand harvesting has been replaced the U.K. cider industry is worth £2.88 billion per annum, by machine harvesting, hand pressing has been replaced which equates to 787 million litres and shows a year-on- by hydraulic automated cider presses, and wild yeast has year increase of 2.1%. The U.K. market consumes 45% of been replaced by specially selected and carefully nur- 25% 21.0% 20% 16.8% 15% 11.5% 11.0% 10% 6.1% 5.8% 5.3% 5.2% 4.8% 3.0% 5% 2.2% 1.8% 1.0% 0.5% 0.4% -1.0% -1.9% -2.8% -3.0% -3.8% 0% Spain -5% Austria Canada Sweden Norway Estonia Belgium Australia Germany Netherlands South Africa Switzerland New Zealand France Finland Lithuania Denmark United Kingdom United States of America Republic of Ireland FIGURE 2. Cider Growth by Country (Global Data Sept. 2017) – 6 – Cider, An Ancient Art in a Modern World tured yeast strains designed to increase efficiency and combined with the recent introduction of the soft drinks consistency. Filtration is believed to have benefited the levy, has enhanced requirements for more transparent most from technological advancement; The introduction product packaging, including full ingredient and nutri- of cross-flow filtration effectively eliminated 5 other pro- tional declarations. And reductions in permitted allergens cess steps – centrifugation, fining, powder filtration, sheet such as S02 mean that the industry faces an uncertain and filtration, and depth filtration. increasingly complex future. The age-old cider industry is facing many threats and The future may be unknown, but it appears to be bring- challenges, and there are now greater links between al- ing its fair share of opportunities and threats for this an- cohol consumption and health. Our consumers have also cient industry. Through a combination of trend and threat changed. Millennials and Generation Xers have different analyses informed by consumer insight and innovation, views on how, when, and where they consume alcohol we can create our own relevant and successful future that – if they do consume it at all. Major brands have seen continually meets the needs of consumers in the 21st cen- serving sizes decrease, from 500 ml cans to 330 ml cans tury and beyond. This is all possible thanks to countless or from pints to half- or one-third-pints. This is a direct hours of research, worthwhile cross-industry collabora- result of modern cider consumers’ thirst for quality over tions, and access to cutting edge technology. This will quantity. make cider making a modern beverage industry that re- tains all the character and quirky traditions