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feb calvados 1/9/06 3:22 PM Page 1 CALVADOS BY JUDY SERRA LIEBERMAN ention Normandy, France M to any American, and the immediate thought is of D-Day, when Allied forces launched their invasion of Europe in World How About Them Apples? eties – bitters, bittersweets, sweets, and War II. But that northwest corner of Why not, indeed, since Calvados was a acidics – are combined in proportions homemade beverage, and the preferred appropriate to AOC requirements and the coastal France has offered more drink of local farmers and fishermen. The desired blend. Note that a designation than military history to the world. It is terrain and climate of the region are broader than the Pays D’Auge, simply unfriendly to grapes, but perfect for fruit termed Calvados, and a third, named home to the Appellation Contrôlée of trees, particularly a wide variety of apples. Domfrontais (which spirit contains 30% Calvados, a unique and intriguing Locals, accepting that life had given them pears) comprise the total AOC. Another apples, produced a cider spirit to meet their product of the region is Pommeau, which is sprit distilled from apple cider. The needs. It was not until the time of the a mixture of Calvados and unfermented finest Calvados comes from this French revolution, when France designated cider. This beverage makes a delightful the geographical sector as “Calvados,” that aperitif. narrow valley, and while the drink is the spirit got its modern name. And, as a The press and dry aging of the cider revered by connoisseurs, it does not matter of ironic history, it did not gain real produces a clear, high alcohol (4.5%) liq- respect in its own country until the late uid. No sugar or caramel is introduced, receive the attention that its quality 19th century phylloxera outbreak. With rather, this liquid is double-distilled in cop- and enduring history warrant. One of vineyards devastated and the wine industry per pot stills, resulting in an eau de vie that crippled, the happy apple spirit of Calvados can be as high as 70% alcohol. The the panels of the Bayeaux tapestry rose in stature. Calvados is then aged in oak barrels, the type of wood being chosen for the charac- depicts the Normans loading wooden From Orchard to Shelf teristics it will lend to the product. The barrels onto their ships. While some In early days, when the trees grew in pas- aging process (a minimum of 2 years, but in say they contain beer or cider, ture lands, “high draft” fruit trees were some cases, 10 to 25) intensifies and adds preferable, with branches emerging about flavor notes and lends color – from pale Vincent Boulard, a foremost Calvados six feet from the ground, out of the reach wheaten gold to a warm reddish brown. of hungry cows. Since the orchards are now Depending on the final style desired by the distiller, whose family has been dedicated to the purpose of Calvados, pro- maker, the Calvados is blended – either involved in Calvados production for duction “low-draft” apple trees (with fruit- with its own vintage or with product from bearing branches about three feet from the varied vintages. Most Calvados borrows the generations, relates that his ancestors ground) are planted in rows similar to the VO (minimum 4 years) and XO (minimum always would say of those barrels: planting of vines in a vineyard. Harvest is 6 years) descriptions from its Cognac cousins to declare the age of its youngest “Why not Calvados?” more abundant and efficient, and the vari- feb calvados 1/9/06 3:22 PM Page 2 component. Prices generally reflect age and most often served neat, as an after-dinner rarity, but a solid selection of quality product drink. It is used in the kitchen as well, in falls into a range of $30 - $100, comparable to Chicken Calvados, and Pork Tenderloin with Cognacs, fine brandies and eau de vies. Calvados and sautéed apples. Guelaffe, whose father made Calvados when he was a child, Tradition of Farm to Table said that traditionally, at home in Bretagne, a Although Calvados has moved away from the nip of Calvados is often taken in the morning pasture, the old connection between dairy cows “to keep us warm against the cold weather.” He anan grazing in the orchards comes to mind when also gave his recommendation for flu season: matching Calvados with foods. Using the “We make what you call a hot toddy: hot “grows with, goes with” concept is a simple and water, sugar, and Calvados.” rewarding rule. Camembert, justly acknowl- adayaday edged as one of France’s most luscious cheeses, Is It Apple Picking Time? is another source of pride in the region, and Is Calvados, a spirit of worldwide prestige – Tips for Promoting pairs beautifully with Calvados. The rich butter unique to its home in the region of Normandy, & Selling Calvados and cream of the entire Normandy-Bretagne born of necessity with humble roots, heralded region are legendary, and often find their way as a savior during hard times, and a nostalgic Display Apples: Obvious, easy, and into sweet and savory dishes. One of the favorite, primed for a successful invasion into inexpensive. A bowl, basket, or crate of region’s dessert specialties, the Tarte Tatin – the US market? There seems to be an ongoing shiny apples, set on a bar or tasting the upside down treat of caramelized apples on effort by producers to broaden the market for table draws interest and sends out an flaky layers of puff pastry – can only be made their product, encouraging restaurants and irresistible fragrance. more delicious if served with whipped cream hotels to create cocktails that celebrate and flavored with Calvados. With the coastal abun- feature the sprit. Retro Cocktails: Feature a classic like dance of fish and shellfish in the region, anoth- The time is right for stylish cocktails: bar- a Jack Rose, a Calvados Manhattan or er popular dish is steamed mussels, rich with tenders are becoming innovative entertainers, Sour; have your bartenders add some cream and fragrant with Calvados. Grenadins and that always-desirable young market sector showmanship, and offer sample tastes. (or scallops) of veal, and poultry are often is embracing both new creations and reinter- sautéed in butter, and served with a pan sauce pretations of retro cocktails: the Jack Rose – a Hot Stuff: Offer sips and recipes for based on Calvados and cream. If such a meal combination of Calvados and grenadine. Calvados-spiked hot mulled cider in seems too rich and filling employ le trou According to an MSNBC feature by Jon Bonne your store. Add gingersnaps fruit cake Normand – the tradition of taking sips of (2/17/05), that month was declared “Calvados or pannetone as a good pairing idea. Calvados at the table between courses to aid Month” with marketers hoping for a popularity digestion, thus creating a space or hole (trou) surge comparable to that enjoyed by Cognac, Sniff and Sip School: To introduce for more food. when it became the drink of choice for hip retail customers to Calvados, offer side Calvados is still a cook’s favorite. Paul celebrities. The notion that Calvados is by side tastings of Cognacs, brandies Garcia, director of the cordials department for unique, and known only to those in the know and eau de vies along with Calvados. Applejacks, a wine and spirits superstore serv- (whether hip or moneyed or both) might work Customers will learn the differences, ing the greater metropolitan Denver area, rein- in its favor. pick their favorites, and buy. forced this fact. “In the cold months, we sell a Taste is another plus. Calvados, born of lot of lower-priced ($18-$20) bottles of apple apples, retains the essence of the fruit’s refresh- Cheese Pairing: Camembert or ched- brandy and Calvados. Sometimes people come ing flavor and acidity, even after distilling and dar are natural matches with tasting sips in with a recipe for a mulled cider or punch, or aging. The younger spirit, more likely to be of Calvados. Add assorted crackers and apple pie, and point to the word “Calvados” in used in a cocktail or mixed drink, has more some apple chips for fun. their recipe. They don’t know what it is, but “apple-ness” so can add a unique taste to a cre- An Elegant Finish: Feature desserts when they try it, they like it.” He noted that ation. The longer-aged spirit has had time to flavored with Calvados at your restau- the higher-end product, like higher-end pick up flavor notes of vanilla, gingerbread, rant. Let your pastry chef create a mas- Cognacs, sells to the more sophisticated cus- and dried fruit from the oak, and while it still terpiece, or keep it simple: Calvados tomer. A spokesman for Beverages & More, a has a strong kick, is rounder and softer than a poured over a scoop of ice cream or retailer in Walnut Creek, California, agreed: comparable distilled grape spirit. fruit sorbet is refreshing and delicious. “We have customers who go high-end when Flavor - especially big flavor – is... buying Calvados for a celebratory or holiday well...big today. One look at the surge in After Dinner: Accompany the Calvados gift; lower-priced bottles sell well for cooking sales of big, fruit-forward wines, the resur- snifter with petit fours that enhance its purposes.” In recognition of that use, the famed gence of floral-scented German wines, the flavor; vanilla, toasted nuts and caramel Calvados producer, Boulard has introduced a return of roses, and the countless flavor vari- work especially well.