Chapter 2 Theoritical Foundation

CHAPTER 2

THEORITICAL FOUNDATION

2.1. History of Children Clothing

The history of children clothes imitating adult looks began in the 16th and 17th Centuries, once out of their baby or toddler clothes, they were dressed virtually as miniature adults (Wagner, Boys' Clothes: 15th-16th Centuries). In the past, parents did not raise children but they raised tiny adults not only in appearance but mentally (Aries, 1960). Basically parents in the past, were make their children as what they trying make of them. For the example is clothes for their children, they make their children wore the same clothes that adults were wearing, with few change for smaller clothes. Little girls wear gowns similar to their mothers' and little boys appear to be smaller versions of their fathers. The quality of the fabric depended on the status and wealth of the parents. Indeed, clothing was a sign of family’s means and status. Consequently, children were dressed to reflect their parents place in society.

In here the author will telling the history of children clothing from the babies into the children from 16th to 20th :

2.1.1. Early Children's Attire

In the 16th century, clothing worn by infants and young children are lacked sex distinction. As shown at figure 2.1 below a young boy wore a dresses. Once children ages between two and four months they are put into a dresses or long clothes (Boustoun, 2014). It may appear that when little boys of the past were attired in skirts or dresses "like girls" and the society did not matter that time (Boy’s dress).

Figure 2.1. Young boy wore a dresses Source: http://www.habsburger.net/en/media/diego-rodriguez-de-silva-y-velazquez-infante-philip- prosper-painting-1659

By the 1760s, once children began crawling and later walking, they wore short clothes to allow for more freedom of movement, called petticoats, paired with fitted, back opening bodices that were frequently stiffened. Little boys wore dress or petticoat outfits until they reached at least age four through seven. When they were considered mature enough to wear miniature versions of adult male clothing or also called breeching. It was the time that a young boy (age four to seven years old), would be taken out of his child's gown and stays and given his first pair of breeches (adult clothing). Sometimes a party would be given to celebrate the end of his childhood (Liz, 2012).

Meanwhile, for a girls they wore this style until thirteen or fourteen, until they put on the front opening gowns style of adult women. The child’s gown or petticoat most often resembled a woman's but those worn by boys sometimes resembled men's coats and would button center front, as you can see at Figure 2.2 below.

Figure 2.2 Portrait of two children, a boy on the left and a girl on the right wearing petticoat Source: http://www.history.org/history/teaching/enewsletter/volume11/jan13/primsource.cfm?showSite=mobi le

2.1.2. Babies in gown

Although boys were still breeched by about six or seven during the 1770s, they now began to wear somewhat more relaxed versions of adult clothing, looser, cut coats and open necked shirts with ruffled collars, until their early teen years.

Also in the 1770s, instead of the more formal bodice and petticoat combinations, girls continued to wear style dresses, usually accented with wide waist sashes, until they were old enough for adult clothing.

Figure 2.3 Family portrait in matching clothes with new version of clothing Source : https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2012/10/08/playing-dress-up-kids-clothing-in- the-17th-century/

Here is a family portrait of Suzanne Cocks’s family in the late of 17th era, at Figure 2.3. It shown that the tiny figures dress up clothes look like mini adults. By 1800, women, girls, and toddler boys all wore similarly styled, high waisted dresses was made from lightweight silks and cottons.

2.1.3. Skeleton Suits for boys

Figure 2.4 Boys in Skeleton Suits and also a boy wearing a dress (on the Right) Source: https://www.1st-art-gallery.com/Philipp-Otto-Runge/The-Hulsenbeck-Children-1805-06.html

At figure 2.4 is a boys wore skeleton suits which is a popular clothing for small boys in that era. A new type of transitional attire, specifically designed for small boys between the ages of three and seven, began to be worn about 1780 to the late 1820s. Previously young boys wore dresses until they were breeched, or put into trousers. Skeleton suits are often described as one of the earliest fashions for small boys to be specifically tailored for children, rather than being smaller version of adult clothes (Wagner, Boys' Clothes: 15th-16th Centuries) .

It is called skeleton suits because they fit close to the body, with the trousers buttoned onto the waist of the jacket or waistcoat with a wide collar edged in ruffles. It was usually high-waisted and tight fitting.

2.1.4. The Advent of Trouser for Boys In the nineteenth century, The ritual of little boys leaving off dresses for male clothing continued to be called "breeching". Boys were considered officially breeched until they wore trousers without the tunic overdresses at about age six or seven. Once breeched, boys dressed in cropped, waist-length jackets until their early teens, when they donned cutaway frock coats with knee-length tails, signifying they had finally achieved full adult sartorial status. Here is a picture at Figure 2.5 below that shown of boy was considered mature and independent enough to called an adult. In the last of the nineteenth century, boys began wearing long trousers was frequently seen as a more significant event than breeching.

Figure 2.5 Boys start wore adult look at seven years old Source: https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/george-villiers-16281687-2nd-duke-of-buckingham-with- his-brother-lord-francis-villiers-16291648-28134

2.1.5. Little Girls' Dresses

Unlike boys, as 19th century girls grew older their clothing did not have a dramatic transformation. Females wore skirted outfits throughout their lives from infancy to old age. however, the garments' cut and style details did change with age. In the past era, little girls were dressed like small versions of their mothers (Thomas P. W., 2006). The most basic difference between girls' and women's dresses was that the children's dresses were shorter, gradually lengthening to floor length by the middle teen years.

2.1.5.1. Girl’s Clothes in The Early 1800 Centuries

Figure 2.6 Three little girl wore lightweight muslin dress in 18s era Source: http://collection.waddesdon.org.uk/images/large/collection/paintings/107.1998_pcf.jpg

In the early 1800s, Little girls wore a simple lightweight muslin dress styles with a high cut empire line bodice seam. The typical of this dress is what adults wore of the early 19th centuries. Some little girls also wore an empire line gown with yellow coloured fabric. Here is a picture at figure 2.6 of little girls around 1800, wore dresses of muslin.

2.1.5.2. Victorian Fashion Era for Girls

Figure 2.7 Girls in the Victorian Era Source: https://byronsmuse.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/1866-evening-dresses-for-women-and- girls.jpg

By 1825, the style of little girl’s dresses had back into the styles mini adults again. This time women dresses become more extravagant, it consist of ruffles, flounces, fur trims with the waistline moving down. Which was also popular in children dresses in that era. At figure 2.7 shows children dress of in Victorian fashion era with the women adult beside her wore a similar dress. The difference is from the skirt length on an individual child was a sign of her age

2.1.5.3 Early C20th Edwardian Fashions for Girls

Figure 2.8 Edwardian Era Children's Fashions Source: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/be/b9/9b/beb99b32632921db0c6efa175050deb8--edwardian- clothing-edwardian-fashion.jpg

At figure 2.8 shows frilled dresses for girls of age 5 or more, were popular in the early Edwardian years. The dresses at that time usually had a heavily frilled and either a flowing smock skirt. Flounces were popular too as skirts layers or as a decorative trim.

2.1.6. Modern Children’s Wear

Before the early-twentieth century, children had dressed as a small adults and follower of adult trends had happened. But now they were expressing more to their own interests. Talk about modern children’s trend in Indonesia, nowadays parents more into fashion, they are very aware with their family appearance. Mostly parents in Indonesia dressing their children with the latest of fashion. Because of that, designers of children’s clothing started to listen to what their consumers would like to wear and young designers came out with collections that was fashion forward also for children. During this time retailers had also become observant of that in most households mothers stood for children’s clothing purchases and fashion forward mothers encouraged their children to wear what was in fashion.

2.2. Consumer Behavior

Over the past two decades, marketers and advertisers of children's products have developed a massive and diverse spectrum of strategies to reach the child consumer (Kline, 1993). Todays fashion industry are becoming more focus in kids wear. They are interested in children for three reasons. First, parents today who are categorised millennial are willing to buy more for their kids because trends. Second, children are also a future market (McNeal, 1992). It has been demonstrated that children develop brand loyalty at an early age, and that favourable attitudes toward brands last well into adulthood (McNeal, 1992). Finally, children are an important market of influencers.

The increased economic power and influence on family decisions of today's children can be seen by phenomenon that mom dressing her kids with famous brand. Besides parents have a larger income, they also have a higher educational level, which means that they are in the circle of high society (Gunter & Furnham, 1998).

According to Ian Cross, director at the Bentley University Center for Marketing Technology, young families today from their earliest years have been shaped by social media, e-commerce, and on-demand services, using technology to customize the information they receive, the products they buy, and the interactions they have.

2.2.1 Millennial Generation

Individuals born between 1980 and early 2000s, also known as millennial or generation Y, are heavy internet users, (Statista.com). Regarding the data from (Main, 2017), millennial generation defined into two groups of people, they are: Generation Y (who were born between 1981-1991) and Generation Z (who were born between 1991-2001). The difference between Gen Y and Gen X is, Generation Y grew up on old technology like computers, cell phones, and video game systems, while Generation Z has grown up on modern technology such as tablets, smartphones, and apps. However, the common ground between both generations is that both have been shaped by the technology revolution.

Research presented at the 2016 annual meeting of the Society for Personality and Social Psychology (SPSP) in San Diego found that, millennial are more narcissistic, confident, self-expressive, liberal, optimistic and open to change than previous generations. At figure 1.1 below has shown that millennial generation are heavy internet user.

Figure 2.9 Millennial generation are heavy internet users Source : https://meetingtomorrow.com/blog/event-must-haves-for-millennials

Today, nearly 90 percent of new moms are millennial, with the average age of 26 for first time moms, which makes them a particularly important consumer segment for brands and marketers to understand (Keagy, 2017). In this project, the author will focus on millennial mom or Generation Y ages 26 to 36 years old as a target market.

2.3. Kids behavior at age 3-5 years’ old

Children between the ages of 2 to 5 are great at imitating parents’ activities. Most toddlers have developed the motor and cognitive skills necessary to carry out the action to be imitated. Often little boys copy their fathers, and little girls model their mothers. She will try to imitate mom’s actions, talking tone and try to shape herself into mom’s image, even they also copy parents' dressing style.

It is a common scene for children to copy parents' dressing style, Imitation is vital to the development of abilities ranging from language to social skills," explains Lisa

Nalven, M.D., a developmental and behavioural paediatrician at the Valley Center for Child Development, in Ridgewood, New Jersey.

Imitation is also a stepping-stone to independence. By copying adults during this crucial year of growth, toddler year olds learn a vast array of skills (Stiefel, 2015). For a toddler, imitation marks a major milestone. Acting just like you is a giant step toward learning all about himself.

2.4. The Concept of Embroidery

Embroidery is the embellishment or decoration done on woven or nonwoven fabric to increase the beauty of the fabric (needlework.com). There are two types of embroidery techniques, they are hand embroidery and machine embroidery. For this project the author will uses hand embroidery for the technique, because it is more interesting and looks like 3 dimension.

2.5. Theory of Printing

Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs (Kadolph, 2007). In this project the author will focus on screen printing and digital printing. For screen printing it is the old technique that still use common until now. Digital printing, a process of printing on textiles and garments using technology.

2.6. Fashion Trend for Children Spring/Summer 2018 2.6.1. Style

The style that the author take from WGSN website is a trend with global outlook, inspired by a blend of global cultures. So, the author wants to combine a traditional craft which is hand embroidery with modern of Mexico fashion style in 1940s era. The author take Mexico as an inspiration because Mexico is one of the beautiful country that represent a festive vibe, hand craft and not least important is a muse that the author

23 take from Mexico is Frida Kahlo. She is a great artist in that era, not only from her paintings but her life story and her iconic style is very inspiring.

Figure 2.10 Frida Kahlo Iconic Style Source: http://hivesociety.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/untitled.png

From the muse point of view, the author apply the clothes silhouette which is actually simple to synchronize the hand craft. Most of the Frida Kahlo attire consist of pleats and adapting casual looks with vibrant color. The reason that the author take Frida Kahlo style because it represent interesting shape, simple and yet classic.

2.6.2. Fabric

For fabric choice, safety and comfort should always be the top priority for the author, when choosing material for children’s garments. Wherefore, the author choose light weight fabrics like cotton voile, rayon challis, cotton lawn, and linen are the fabric that the author will used for the tops, dresses and the pants. The author choose a cotton as a major fabric for the collection because cotton fabric is the most popular choice for children’s and baby apparel.

Cotton is soft and highly absorbent, and it is gentle against a baby’s skin. Organic fabric, and organic cotton fabric in particular, is the perfect choice for babies, as it is grown without the use of chemicals and fertilizers. Babies and toddlers often have

24 allergies or specific skin conditions which can be aggravated by rough and/or synthetic fabrics, by using organic cotton is a safe way to ensure that children will be comfortable, even if they have skin issues which are triggered by heavy dyes and chemicals (McKinley, 2016).

2.6.3. Color

According to WGSN fashion forecasting 2018, the color choices that might enter the trend is vibrant color included specially for kids. The author take Kindship theme from WGSN because the color is in line with the authors inspiration. Kinship theme mostly are bright colour since the collection represent a festive vibes that calls to mind exotic travels. Spicy red and oranges drive the heat and intensity of this story. While blues offer a calm counterbalance. Bright and fresh tones such as Empire Yellow signal the anticipation of summer, and are perfect for playful prints and patterns.

Figure 2.11 WGSN Colors trend Source: www.WGSN.com

2.6.4. Trend

The trend that the author took from WGSN mostly inspired from adventurous spirit, with touch of vibrant color for Spring Summer 2018. Where the fabrics and colours are interesting, mix-and-match layered with intense pattern. And for the accessories author’s tend to use bohemian accessories’ such as pompom, trims, printed so it will created an exotic looks. Overall the trend forecast will represent author’s theme and mood goal in this collection.

2.6.5. Motif Style

Mexico is a very lively, vibrant and spirited country, which, sometimes, shows in its color palette. Beside that Mexico also famous with the bright flowers and their handy crafting. For the motif the author inspired by the flowery in Mexico with the vibrant color and also the symbol from Mexico such as cactus, and make them to a cartoonish style for pattern.

Figure 2.12 Mexico’s Flower Market Source: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/ef/d8/ba/efd8baa9f0c8741c0bb9418ba21cf3e2.jpg

Figure 2.13 Mexican’s Flower Embroidery Source:http://www.dailyembroidery.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Vintage-Flowers-Stitched-5_5- Inch.jpg

2.7. Marketing and Promotional Strategy

Promotion is one of the key elements of the marketing mix. In marketing, promotion is advertising a product or brand, generating sales, and creating brand loyalty. Marketing mix is a term used to describe the "4’Ps" of marketing, which are price, product, place and promotion (Boone & Kurtz, 1974). These promotional strategies are ways companies communicate information about their products and services with the end goal of increasing sales to the consumer. There are many basic steps in promotional strategy, here the list:

2.7.1. Physical Environment

In a physical environment, promotion can be take at special events such as bazaar, celebration, or any special occasion. Through this way the customer can directly get more clearly about the information of the product and allow immediate purchases. The purchase of a product can be booster with discounts, free items, or voucher for the next purchase. This method can increase the relations a community through promoting goods and services can lead to brand loyalty (Frank, 2009).

2.9.2. Mass Media

Mass media is communication, whether written, broadcast, or spoken that reaches a large audience. Mass Media was known the easiest and widely used, means of communication used from centuries (Smith, 2011). Mass media includes television, radio, advertising, movies, newspapers, magazines, and so forth. Companies use mass media for advertising because of its large number of reach and targeting general people.

2.9.3. Digital Media

According the data from (Thomas & Felix, 2015), digital media is a network based advertising system with the aim of transforming ancient promotional media into digital promotional media such as Internet, social media, and social networking. Now, digital media is the most effective way fro brands to reach their consumers on a daily basis (Benady, 2014). With digital media people can reach quick for the latest information, news and advertising. Therefore, promotions can be done outside of local contexts and across geographic borders to reach a greater number of potential consumers. Based on the website of internetlivestat, around 40% of the world population has an internet connection today and Indonesia is in rank 5. Since the internet user is become larger, this promotion is possible to reach people in a time efficient and a cost efficient manner.