CHAPTER 2 THEORITICAL FOUNDATION 2.1. History of Children Clothing The history of children clothes imitating adult looks began in the 16th and 17th Centuries, once out of their baby or toddler clothes, they were dressed virtually as miniature adults (Wagner, Boys' Clothes: 15th-16th Centuries). In the past, parents did not raise children but they raised tiny adults not only in appearance but mentally (Aries, 1960). Basically parents in the past, were make their children as what they trying make of them. For the example is clothes for their children, they make their children wore the same clothes that adults were wearing, with few change for smaller clothes. Little girls wear gowns similar to their mothers' and little boys appear to be smaller versions of their fathers. The quality of the fabric depended on the status and wealth of the parents. Indeed, clothing was a sign of family’s means and status. Consequently, children were dressed to reflect their parents place in society. In here the author will telling the history of children clothing from the babies into the children from 16th to 20th : 2.1.1. Early Children's Attire In the 16th century, clothing worn by infants and young children are lacked sex distinction. As shown at figure 2.1 below a young boy wore a dresses. Once children ages between two and four months they are put into a dresses or long clothes (Boustoun, 2014). It may appear that when little boys of the past were attired in skirts or dresses "like girls" and the society did not matter that time (Boy’s dress). 13 Figure 2.1. Young boy wore a dresses Source: http://www.habsburger.net/en/media/diego-rodriguez-de-silva-y-velazquez-infante-philip- prosper-painting-1659 By the 1760s, once children began crawling and later walking, they wore short clothes to allow for more freedom of movement, called petticoats, paired with fitted, back opening bodices that were frequently stiffened. Little boys wore dress or petticoat outfits until they reached at least age four through seven. When they were considered mature enough to wear miniature versions of adult male clothing or also called breeching. It was the time that a young boy (age four to seven years old), would be taken out of his child's gown and stays and given his first pair of breeches (adult clothing). Sometimes a party would be given to celebrate the end of his childhood (Liz, 2012). Meanwhile, for a girls they wore this style until thirteen or fourteen, until they put on the front opening gowns style of adult women. The child’s gown or petticoat most often resembled a woman's but those worn by boys sometimes resembled men's coats and would button center front, as you can see at Figure 2.2 below. 14 Figure 2.2 Portrait of two children, a boy on the left and a girl on the right wearing petticoat Source: http://www.history.org/history/teaching/enewsletter/volume11/jan13/primsource.cfm?showSite=mobi le 2.1.2. Babies in gown Although boys were still breeched by about six or seven during the 1770s, they now began to wear somewhat more relaxed versions of adult clothing, looser, cut coats and open necked shirts with ruffled collars, until their early teen years. Also in the 1770s, instead of the more formal bodice and petticoat combinations, girls continued to wear style dresses, usually accented with wide waist sashes, until they were old enough for adult clothing. 15 Figure 2.3 Family portrait in matching clothes with new version of clothing Source : https://thepragmaticcostumer.wordpress.com/2012/10/08/playing-dress-up-kids-clothing-in- the-17th-century/ Here is a family portrait of Suzanne Cocks’s family in the late of 17th era, at Figure 2.3. It shown that the tiny figures dress up clothes look like mini adults. By 1800, women, girls, and toddler boys all wore similarly styled, high waisted dresses was made from lightweight silks and cottons. 2.1.3. Skeleton Suits for boys Figure 2.4 Boys in Skeleton Suits and also a boy wearing a dress (on the Right) Source: https://www.1st-art-gallery.com/Philipp-Otto-Runge/The-Hulsenbeck-Children-1805-06.html 16 At figure 2.4 is a boys wore skeleton suits which is a popular clothing for small boys in that era. A new type of transitional attire, specifically designed for small boys between the ages of three and seven, began to be worn about 1780 to the late 1820s. Previously young boys wore dresses until they were breeched, or put into trousers. Skeleton suits are often described as one of the earliest fashions for small boys to be specifically tailored for children, rather than being smaller version of adult clothes (Wagner, Boys' Clothes: 15th-16th Centuries) . It is called skeleton suits because they fit close to the body, with the trousers buttoned onto the waist of the jacket or waistcoat with a wide collar edged in ruffles. It was usually high-waisted and tight fitting. 2.1.4. The Advent of Trouser for Boys In the nineteenth century, The ritual of little boys leaving off dresses for male clothing continued to be called "breeching". Boys were considered officially breeched until they wore trousers without the tunic overdresses at about age six or seven. Once breeched, boys dressed in cropped, waist-length jackets until their early teens, when they donned cutaway frock coats with knee-length tails, signifying they had finally achieved full adult sartorial status. Here is a picture at Figure 2.5 below that shown of boy was considered mature and independent enough to called an adult. In the last of the nineteenth century, boys began wearing long trousers was frequently seen as a more significant event than breeching. Figure 2.5 Boys start wore adult look at seven years old Source: https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/george-villiers-16281687-2nd-duke-of-buckingham-with- his-brother-lord-francis-villiers-16291648-28134 17 2.1.5. Little Girls' Dresses Unlike boys, as 19th century girls grew older their clothing did not have a dramatic transformation. Females wore skirted outfits throughout their lives from infancy to old age. however, the garments' cut and style details did change with age. In the past era, little girls were dressed like small versions of their mothers (Thomas P. W., 2006). The most basic difference between girls' and women's dresses was that the children's dresses were shorter, gradually lengthening to floor length by the middle teen years. 2.1.5.1. Girl’s Clothes in The Early 1800 Centuries Figure 2.6 Three little girl wore lightweight muslin dress in 18s era Source: http://collection.waddesdon.org.uk/images/large/collection/paintings/107.1998_pcf.jpg In the early 1800s, Little girls wore a simple lightweight muslin dress styles with a high cut empire line bodice seam. The typical of this dress is what adults wore of the early 19th centuries. Some little girls also wore an empire line gown with yellow coloured fabric. Here is a picture at figure 2.6 of little girls around 1800, wore dresses of muslin. 18 2.1.5.2. Victorian Fashion Era for Girls Figure 2.7 Girls in the Victorian Era Source: https://byronsmuse.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/1866-evening-dresses-for-women-and- girls.jpg By 1825, the style of little girl’s dresses had back into the styles mini adults again. This time women dresses become more extravagant, it consist of ruffles, flounces, fur trims with the waistline moving down. Which was also popular in children dresses in that era. At figure 2.7 shows children dress of in Victorian fashion era with the women adult beside her wore a similar dress. The difference is from the skirt length on an individual child was a sign of her age 19 2.1.5.3 Early C20th Edwardian Fashions for Girls Figure 2.8 Edwardian Era Children's Fashions Source: https://i.pinimg.com/736x/be/b9/9b/beb99b32632921db0c6efa175050deb8--edwardian- clothing-edwardian-fashion.jpg At figure 2.8 shows frilled dresses for girls of age 5 or more, were popular in the early Edwardian years. The dresses at that time usually had a heavily frilled and either a flowing smock skirt. Flounces were popular too as skirts layers or as a decorative trim. 2.1.6. Modern Children’s Wear Before the early-twentieth century, children had dressed as a small adults and follower of adult trends had happened. But now they were expressing more to their own interests. Talk about modern children’s trend in Indonesia, nowadays parents more into fashion, they are very aware with their family appearance. Mostly parents in Indonesia dressing their children with the latest of fashion. Because of that, designers of children’s clothing started to listen to what their consumers would like to wear and young designers came out with collections that was fashion forward also for children. During this time retailers had also become observant of that in most households mothers stood for children’s clothing purchases and fashion forward mothers encouraged their children to wear what was in fashion. 20 2.2. Consumer Behavior Over the past two decades, marketers and advertisers of children's products have developed a massive and diverse spectrum of strategies to reach the child consumer (Kline, 1993). Todays fashion industry are becoming more focus in kids wear. They are interested in children for three reasons. First, parents today who are categorised millennial are willing to buy more for their kids because trends.