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GLEN Internship 2016 Final Report GLEN Internship 2016 Final report 1. “In sober colours”; 24.8.2016, Việt Lâm (Hà Giang Province) Name: Alžběta Srovnalová Home organization: INEX-SDA, Czech Republic Project number: 632 Internship title: Setting up a homestay for sustainable tourism Country and place: Việt Nam, Hà Giang Province Internship period: 3.7. - 25.9.2016 Hosting organizations: Inside North Vietnam, Jungleman Homestay, Bản Tùy Homestay, Du Gia Backpacker Hostel, Dong Van Homestay SUMMARY The GLEN internship is a project based part of the Multipliers Training Cycle (MTC) that allows young educated people to broaden their horizon while being sent to a country in the so called Global South. Within this framework two GLEN interns took part in the project “Setting up a homestay for sustainable tourism” in the Hà Giang Province in northern Việt Nam. This province is a mountainous region with nearly 90% of its inhabitants belonging to ethnic minority groups. Quite recently the tourism has started to flourish in this region. This fact has already brought many local people on the idea of running their own homestay as perceiving it as an alternative source of income. At first glance, the concept of a homestay might seem as a way that could potentially go in the direction of sustainable tourism. Nevertheless the author of this report questions this assumption referring to her personal experiences from Việt Nam. She draws attention to the problematic aspects of tourism in the context of current neocolonial structures. Hence, the focus of this report lies on the critical reflection of experiences gained in the freshly opened homestays or that have been established within the last years in diverse communities in the Hà Giang Province. Among the tasks that were conducted by the interns belonged everyday’s activities of the families running a homestay – like food preparation, farming, housework, promotion activities for the homestay etc. While working together with the local people, the intern gained an insight unto the diverse modes of living and thus a possibility to become conscious about the complexity of hybrid forms of modernity. Rather than stories of success the reader will be offered a sober view on voluntourism and author’s role in it. SHRNUTÍ Stáž GLEN je praktickou částí programu globálního vzdělávání, jež umožňuje mladým Evropanům a Evropankám rozšířit si své obzory zkušenostmi získanými pobytem v zemi globálního Jihu. V této souvislosti se dvě GLENní stážistky zúčastnily projektu zabývajícím se vytvářením homestay (alternativního způsobu ubytování místmími) s ohledem na udržitelný turismus v severovietnamské provincii Hà Giang. Tato provincie je horskou oblastí, která je z téměř 90ti procenty obývaná lidmi z etnických menšin. V poslední době zaznamenal tento region nebývalý rozvoj turismu. Tato skutečnost přiměla řadu místních k otevření si vlastního homestay jakožto alternativního zdroje příjmu. Na první pohled se jeví koncept “homestay” jako cesta, která by mohla vést k sociálně a ekologicky udržitelnému turismu. Autorka to nicméně na základě vlastní zkušenosti zpochybňuje a upozorňuje mj. na problematické stránky turismu v kontextu novodobých neokoloniálních struktur. 2 Tato závěrečná zpráva se tedy zejména snaží o kritickou reflexi zkušeností se zakládajícími či během posledních let etablovanými homestay v různých komunitách provincie Hà Giang. Stážistky se účastnily všednodenního provozu rodin provozujících homestay – vaření, farmaření, domácím pracím, propagací etc. Během společné práce s místními lidmi byl autorce umožněn vhled to různých životních podmínek a tím pádem možnost uvědomit si komplexitu hybridních forem modernity. Spíše než příběh úspěchu je čtenáři či čtenářce v následujícím textu nabídnutý střízlivý pohled na volunturismus a roli autorky v něm. 1. Background While writing this report I tried to make it comprehensible even for people not knowing me personally. Hence, at this point I would like to recount some basic aspects of my path towards the GLEN Program. In this regard I will also briefly touch upon questions related to the motives and motivations I had while joining the program. I got to know the GLEN program in 2014, when I conducted my internship at the organization Ekumenická Akademie Praha. One of the former participants, Barbora Chmelová told me about it and highlighted the critical approach inherent to the GLEN program. I have become interested in that and thought such learning cycle might be complementary to my theoretical knowledge gained during the studies of International Development at the Vienna University. In that study program the focus lies primarily on the critical views on theories of and approaches to ‘development’ as well as on the machinery of the development assistance. Accordingly, at one point during my studies I had to begin to reflect on my own mindset and attitudes towards ‘development’, ‘aid’ or neo-colonial structures as well as on my position within them. Almost two years later I decided to hand in my GLEN application and welcomed the opportunity of becoming one of the participants. Together with my tandem partner Britta Muth, chosen by the German organization ASA I was assigned to the project called “Setting up a model farm for sustainable agriculture”. The project was supposed to be conducted on the Thien Thai Farm in the Đà Lạt area in the South Central Highlands of Việt Nam1. I was truly keen to become engaged in a project dealing in a sensitive way with persisting South-North asymmetries and expected I could partly deconstruct these structures. Hence, I perceived GLEN program as an imaginary bridge between the academic milieu at the University and my consecutive occupation. Besides, due to my strong interest in issues 1 One of the contradictions I have come across was that I considered Việt Nam as one of the Global South countries whilst this country sees itself at reaching the industrialized countries by 2020. See: http://vietnamnews.vn/economy/281918/vn-targets-high-growth-to-2020.html#YI0agKkBTtQRgrBc.97 3 covered by the agenda of the food sovereignty movement2 I was excited about a project related to organic farming as one of the underappreciated knowledge complexes. Having a background in social sciences, I thought I could broaden my horizon and get an insight into peasant farming practices in Việt Nam. However, after our arrival in Ho Chi Minh City (Thành Phố Hồ Chí Minh), our tandem was notified of the project’s cancellation. That was primarily due the divergence regarding expectations on the aims of the internship. Apparently, our hosting organization expected us to be agriculturists whose know-how transfer would eventually lead to an increase in Thien Thai Farm’s higher productivity and efficiency. Neither me nor my tandem partner Britta fit such expectations.3 On the contrary, our tandem intended especially to learn from the locals and not to behave like white experts that would need to “enlighten” people. To shorten it up, the project and its tasks were adjusted. Finally, Britta and I found ourselves working for families running a homestay in the Hà Giang Province. The path to the new, sort of spontaneous “project” had been fairly challenging, but it definitely paid off. 2. Hà Giang Province The new kind of “project” was conducted in diverse communities in the Hà Giang Province situated in the far north of the country. This province consists mainly of rural areas, often rocky highlands, natural forest cover or terraced paddy fields. From both geological and cultural heritage perspective this province is an outstanding region. In this province is located also the Dong Van Karst Global UNESCO Geopark (UNESCO Cao nguyên đá Đồng Văn) that is unique due to its geological heritages dating back 540 million years ago. In addition, this area has kept rich ecosystems; rare and valuable fauna and flora is still to be found there. In fact, this added value of the region has a lot to do with its population that kept living/working in balance with nature and its abundance for generations. Solely the Dong Van Geopark is home to 17 different ethnic groups whose culture uniquely shapes this region. And in general the whole province is rich and diverse regarding the 2 See the global peasant’s movement La Vía Campesina and the Nyéléni Declaration: https://viacampesina.org/en/index.php/main-issues-mainmenu-27/food-sovereignty-and-trade-mainmenu- 38/262-declaration-of-nyi 3 Consequently, I would stress the importance of a careful selection procedure of prospective GLEN interns as well as hosting organizations. 4 population composition – according to the Vietnamese Government ethnic minorities account for up to 88% of the province’s inhabitants.4 Nonetheless, this province is being assessed as one of the „poorest“ 5 regions of Việt Nam. Heretfore, several Hà Giang “development” projects have been made often under the supervision of international institutions like the World Bank or the Asian Development Bank. Currently, Hà Giang Province is experiencing rapid growth in tourism that in fact hasn’t been an issue for this region just until recently. Increasingly more tourists seeking „authentic“ local connections, places, culture or/and people come to this region. In fact, the government anticipates Hà Giang’s economic growth rate will rise to 8.5 percent between 2021 and 2025, and 9.5 percent between 2025 and 2030.6 The question “How will these (pursuits of) growth rates interact with the environmental, cultural and social facets of this region?” yet remains to be discussed. 3. Homestays – an overview 3.1. Inside North Vietnam In Hà Giang Province many villages are scattered throughout the mountains and accessible only by a motorbike or by foot. One of them is the upland village Cao Bồ located approximately 25km far away from the province’s capital Hà Giang. Our tandem stayed there at the place of the family Nguyễn although it hasn’t been registered as a homestay yet.
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