Kraków Moser Dominik Eurointerpret Proofreading: and Translation Tincel Michał Print: for Preparation Typesetting, O.O

MAŁOPOLSKA Weekend trips

Małopolska  8 UNESCO sites  250 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  4 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  250 ski runs

www.visitmalopolska.pl

EUROPEAN UNION EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT FUND

Project co-financed by the European Union within the Malopolska Regional Operational Programme 2007–2013 Lizbona P Materials prepared as of 29 October 2010. October 29 of as Materials prepared publishing. for prepared been have materials the after place took that changes any for responsible be cannot they however, accurate, is text the ensure to effort every made have publishers and authors The 978-83-63091-13-2 2010, ISBN Kraków Moser Dominik EuroInterpret proofreading: and Translation Tincel Michał print: for preparation Typesetting, o.o. z sp. Daunpol Kartograficzne Wydawnictwo Maps: SA PART design: graphic design, Cover Szmuc Agnieszka Proofreading: Hołubowska Aurelia Editor: Niedźwieńska Anna concept: Publishing Thor Katarzyna coordination: Project Czopik Małgorzata Błaszczak, Agnieszka management: Production www.polskaturystyczna.pl [email protected], 12 +48 4229922 tel./faks: 13/7, Kraków 31-043 Stolarska ul. –Program zo.o. Sp. Amistad Publishing archive UMWM photo D. Zaród, Zaręba, M. Podlecki, J. P. Mierniczak, Gzyl, K. Gorlach, J. T. Gębuś, Gacek, S. Photos Bzowski Krzysztof Text www.visitmalopolska.pl [email protected] 31-156 22, Kraków Basztowa ul. Team System Information Tourism Regional Province Małopolska the of Marshal the of Office The at Promotion and Sport Tourism, of Department Publisher E Madryt Madryt Rejkiawik Dublin IRL IS Andora Londyn GB AND Paryż F Bruksela Amsterdam Luksemburg MC B Monako CH NL Berno L FL Vaduz N V Marino Kopenhaga D San Oslo I Lublana Berlin Rzym M RSM DK Wiedeń HR A SLO Praga Sztokholm Sarajewo CZ Zagrzeb Zagrzeb S Podgorica BIH Warszawa Tirana Bratysława MNE H

AL PL Budapeszt RKS Belgrad KRAKÓW FIN SK SRB MK RUS Priština GR

Helsinki

Skopje Ateny Ateny LT Wilno Ryga Tallin Soﬁa EST RO Bukareszt LV BG Kiszyniów BY Mińsk UA MD Kijów RUS TR  Landscape: Poland) of population the of 8% (about mil. 3.28 Population: Gorce Gorce Surface area: 15,190 area: km Surface Oświęcim Sącz, Tarnów, Nowy cities: Major Kraków region: the of Capital Małopolska Upland Upland deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna Cave: over 22 km of corridors, 824 mdeep corridors, of km 22 over Cave: Śnieżna –Wielka cave deepest Lakes Polish Five of Valley the of lakes Staw, the Czarny Klimkówka Dobczycki, Biała Skawa, Raba, the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl 2499 masl –Rysy: peak tallest the   foothills – Carpathian Foothills Foothills –Carpathian foothills lowlands – Vistula valley valley –Vistula lowlands  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Czchowski, Czchowski, Rożnowski, –Czorsztyński, reservoirs water  2 the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Oko, –Morskie lakes cleanest located, highest the (about 5% of the surface area of Poland) of area surface the 5% of (about   main rivers – Vistula, Dunajec, Poprad, Poprad, Dunajec, –Vistula, rivers main mountains – Tatras, Beskids, Pieniny, Pieniny, Beskids, –Tatras, mountains  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa –Kraków-Częstochowa uplands  the largest and and largest the

Wysowa-Zdrój MAŁOPOLSKA Weekend trips

Planning the trip, photo by D. Zaród Table of contents Chapter I. Weekend trip around... Kraków ...... 2 Chapter II. Weekend trip around... Tarnów ...... 11 Chapter III. Weekend trip around... Nowy Sącz ...... 16 Chapter IV. Weekend trip around... Zakopane ...... 20

he peaks of the High Tatra Mountains lost in the clouds, the white rocks of the Kraków-Częstochowa Upland with Truins of castles referred to as “eagles’ nests”, historic towns with old, charming tenement houses, green forests and woods… All are waiting for everyone who plans to expand their sightseeing in Małopolska outside big cities. Once you have have seen Tarnów and Nowy Sącz, once you have explored Zakopane and spent a few days in Kraków, it is worth continuing your sightseeing further afield. Around each of these areas you will find numerous places that are worth visiting and tourist trails hidden among picturesque landscapes. Owing to a rich topographical variety of Małopolska and a tur- bulent history, this region, like no other in Poland, can boast a huge number of historic monuments and marvellous landscapes. If you want to hike in the mountains, you should visit places around Za- kopane or Nowy Sącz. If historic places are what you are looking for, head for towns and villages surrounding Tarnów and Kraków. In this guide you will find short descriptions of suggested routes starting in each of the main tourist centres in Małopolska. These routes are best for one day car trips, but many of them can be walked or cycled.

1 Wawel Hill, photo by M. Zaręba Wieliczka Salt Mine, UMWM photo archive Pieskowa Skała, photo by M. Zaręba Niepołomice, photo by J. Podlecki Weekend around… Kraków The subterranean salt kingdom in Wieliczka In the vicinity of Kraków you can find both rocky limestone At the distance of 12 km south of Kraków lies the town of canyons, as well as boggy plains covered with wild forests. Wieliczka, where you will find a salt mine, founded in the You can set out on a trip among the hills or spend some 13th century, and now inscribed on the UNESCO list. The un- time in the kingdom of fishermen, that is in Dolina Karpia derground tourist route that leads through a network of cor- (Carp Valley). Such landscape diversity provides great op- ridors, huge chambers, and even chapels carved in salt (such portunities, and if you think of the built heritage that can as the spectacular Chapel of St. Kinga with salt bas-reliefs and also be found here, you will realise that Kraków’s neigh- altars) is the main attraction of the salt mine apart from the bourhood is no less interesting than the city itself. underground Muzeum Żup Krakowskich (Kraków Salt- Kraków-Częstochowa Upland is a perfect area to en- works Museum). It houses a collection of exhibits devoted joy active leisure, especially hiking and cycling. Here you to the history and technology of salt mining. “On the sur- can find Ojców National Park and a few landscape parks face” it is worth visiting the nearby Saltworks Castle (zamek protecting the picturesque region of Jura Krakowsko- żupny) with the second part of the exhibition of the above Częstochowska (Jurassic Highland). It is also a great area mentioned museum, which among other things, features for rock climbing and horse riding, e.g. along the Jurassic a collection of 400 salt shakers. You can also take a walk to Horse Riding Trail. the nearby sloping main market square. The most interesting historic heritage sites in the neigh- From Wieliczka you can head 16 km south for the town bourhood of Kraków are inscribed on the UNESCO list. These of Dobczyce, passing a small Romanesque church in include: a salt mine in Wieliczka, found- Dziekanowice. On a rocky hill in Dob- ed in the 13th century, a marvellous group czyce, by the Dobczyckie lake, the ru- of Calvary paths in Kalwaria Zebrzydows- ins of a royal castle have remained to ka, and an appalling memorial of the this day. A few old wooden buildings that World War II, the Auschwitz-Birkenau have been moved here make up a small concentration camp. The surroundings heritage park in front of the castle gate. of Kraków offer much more attractions, Nearby, you can also find a Baroque so you can be sure that a trip in any direc- church built from the stones acquired tion will not be a waste of time. after the demolition of castle’s walls.

2 3 An alternative route takes you from Wieliczka to Niepołomice (12 km to the east), where it is worth visiting a Renaissance royal castle with an arcaded courtyard and an interesting museum. In the town centre there is a Gothic church founded by king Casimir the Great with two chapels: a Renaissance one of the Bra- nicki family, and a Baroque one of the Lubomirski family. Beyond Niepołomice stretches the Niepołomice Forest with many tourist trails. In the neighbourhood, one can also find the oldest female convent in Małopolska – the Benedictine convent in Staniątki. Wieliczka Salt Mine, Tourist Route, ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wie- liczka, \ +48 12 2788302, / www.kopalnia.pl; › Apr–Oct, daily 7.30am–7.30pm; Nov–March 8am–5pm; visits only with a guide: Polish language speaking guide, PLN 50, concessions: PLN 37, foreign language speaking guide: PLN 65, concessions: PLN 51, photography and filming: PLN 10.Kraków Saltworks Museum, ul. Zamkowa 8, Wieliczka, \ +48 12 2783266, / www.muzeum.wieliczka.pl; › same as for the Tourist Route. Museum in Dobczyce Castle and Heritage Park, \ +48 12 2711455, / www.zamek.dobczyce.pl; › Apr and Oct, Tue–Sun 10am–4pm; May–Jun and Sept, Tue–Fri 10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Jul–Aug, Tue–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 10am–8pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4. Museum of Modern Art in Niepołomice, Castle in Pieskowa Skała and the Mace of Herkules, photo by D. Zaród in a castle, ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepołomice, \ +48 12 2619851, / www.muzeum.niepolomice.pl; › daily, 10am–5pm; A trip to Ojców and Pieskowa Skała PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2. To the north east of Kraków stretches the picturesque land of the Jurassic Highland, a limestone Kraków-Częstochowa Niepołomice Forest, a bison, UMWM photo archive Upland. It is an extensive plateau covered with rocky monadnocks that are cut through by rocky gorges and deep valleys. The longest and the most interesting one is Dolina Prądnika (Prądnik Valley). The protected area of Ojców Na- tional Park constitutes its most scenic and precious part. Travelling from Kraków it is best to go to Ojców, situated 25 km away. Here you can visit the ruins of a royal castle and the wooden chapel on water constructed direct- ly above the waters of the Prądnik river. Numerous tourist routes lead from Ojców, along the Prądnik Valley, to the foot of many rocky walls and crags, e.g. to Brama Krakows- ka (Kraków Gate) at the end of Ciasne Skałki gorge, and farther to Grota Łokietka (King Łokietek Cave). In the vicinity, you can also follow an interesting educational trail up the Okopa mountain to Jaskinia Ciemna (Dark Cave) or visit the Sąspówka gorge, a favourite place of beavers. In the northern part of the park you will find the famous monadnock called Maczuga Herkulesa (Mace of Hercules), and behind it, on a cliff above Prądnik, there is an impressive

4 5 castle in Pieskowa Skała housing an interesting museum of changes in art styles from medieval times to the 19th century, as well as a gallery of English paintings. The castle with its arcaded courtyard, elegant loggia from the outside and a reconstructed garden is one of the greatest examples of Renaissance architecture in Małopolska. On your way from Ojców to Pieskowa Skała you can visit the hermitage of blessed Salome and a small Baroque church in Grodzisko village. There was a wooden town here in the early Middle Ages, and the 13th century saw the founding of a convent of poor Clares, whose superior was Salome herself. Coming back from Ojców through Sąspów and Jerzmano- wice it is worth visiting the Wierzchowska Górna Cave, which has been adapted for tourists and is the most interesting cave on the Jurassic Highland. You may also go to Bębło to see an impressive Grodzisko rock (512 m asl) which is the highest peak in the Polish Jura in the vicinity of Kraków.

Ojców Castle, › middle Apr–May and Aug–Sept, 10am– The ‘glove’ rock, UMWM photo archive 4.45pm; Jun–Jul, 10am–5.45; Oct, 10am–3.45pm; first half of Nov, 10am–2.45pm; PLN 2.50, concessions: PLN 1.50. Pieskowa Skała Castle Museum, \ +48 12 3896004, A trip to Kraków Valleys Landscape Park / www.pieskowaskala.eu; › May–Sept, Tue–Thu 9am–5pm, Many attractive landscapes can be found in the vicini- Fri 9am–1pm, Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Apr and Oct, Tue–Thu, ty of Krzeszowice, a town 25 km west of Kraków. When Sat–Sun 10am–4pm, Fri 10am–1pm; Nov–March, Sat–Sun you go in this direction, it is worth seeing at least one of 10am–4pm; for both exhibitions: PLN 16, concessions: PLN 9. a few gorges called Dolinki Krakowskie (Kraków Valleys). Wierzchowska Górna Cave, \ +48 12 4110721, / www. They are protected as part of Kraków Valleys Landscape gacek.pl, › Apr and Sept-Oct, daily 9am–4pm; May–Aug, Park. You can take a walk in the forested Kluczwody Val- 9am–5pm; Nov, 9am–3pm; Jan–March, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm; ley with ruins of the knight’s castle and see an impres- visits only with a guide, PLN 14, concessions: PLN 12. sive rock gate at the end of the Bolechowicki Gorge. In Wierzchowska Górna cave, photo by M. Zaręba the Kobylańska Valley you can admire numerous crags, walls and limestone ridges, and in the long Będkowska Valley, among other things, a wall of Sokolica peak and a real karst spring. Nearby Krzeszowice, beech woods of the Eliaszówka Valley hide a precious Baroque monument: the 17th century monastery of the Carmelites in Czerna village. In neighbouring Paczółtowice there is a beautiful small wooden church from the beginning of the 16th century. There you can also find a large golf course Krakow Val- ley Golf. Instead of playing golf you can ski here in winter and enjoy horse riding or a shooting range all year long. South of Krzeszowice, behind a strip of vast woods, there are magnificentruins of Tęczyn Castle located on a dormant volcano. Other attractions of the Tenczyński Ridge include the rocky Mnikowski gorge and the Zimny Dół nature reserve.

6 7 Carp Valley, UMWM photo archive Lipowiec castle, photo by M. Zaręba Castle in Oświęcim, photo by M. Zaręba Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba

Oświęcim and its surroundings On the way from Kraków to Oświęcim it is worth stop- Formerly a walled settlement by the Soła river, today Oświęcim is ping in Wygiełzów. A large heritage park with numerous quite a large town known mainly for the Nazi German concen- wooden cottages, a church and a larch manor house is lo- tration camp that existed here during World War II. Today, this cated here. Higher up, on a forested hill, you will see the camp as a place of historic evidence and a memorial is inscribed ruins of the Lipowiec Castle. on the UNESCO list as “Auschwitz-Birkenau. Nazi German Concen- tration Camp (1940–1945)”. It consists of two separate concentra- Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau, ul. Wieźniów tion camps: the older and smaller concentration camp in Oświęcim Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, \+48 33 8448100, / www.auschwitz. (Auschwitz), and a large concentration camp in the neighbouring org. pl; › daily; Jun-Aug, 8am–7pm; May and Jun, 8am–6pm; Brzezinka (Birkenau). Nazi German criminals killed around 1.5 mil- Apr and Oct, 8am–5pm; March and Nov, 8am–4pm; Dec–Feb, lion people here, most of whom were Jews. 8am–3pm; visits in the period between In the centre of Oświęcim, it is worth vis- May–Oct only with a guide: 18–38 PLN, in the iting a castle and a renovated synagogue. period between Nov–Apr without a guide: ad- There are also two Gothic churches and mission free. Dolina Karpia, Rynek 2, Zator, a reconstructed market square. The \+48 33 8410584, / www.dolinakarpia.org. town’s surroundings, especially the Vistu- Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Li- la Valley towards the town of Zator, have powiec Castle, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów, been known for centuries for carp ponds \ +48 32 6134062, / www.mnpe.pl; › dai- and they are referred to as Dolina Karpia ly, Apr–Sept, 8am–6pm; Oct–March, 8am–3pm; (Carp Valley). It is a perfect place for fish- 8–21 PLN. ing or watching water- and marshbirds.

8 9 Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, UMWM photo archive Calvary paths and the Pope’s town Only 35 km from Kraków, over the hills and the green valleys of the Beskids towers a magnificent church and monastery of the Bernardines. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska is one of the most important centres of pilgrimage in Poland. A number of churches, chapels and shrines were built here at the beginning of the 17th century in order to create the Calvary paths, conceived as a memorial of the Passion. Thanks to its beautiful landscape and highly original buildings, this oldest Polish Calvary complex has Town hall in Tarnów, photo by K. Gzyl been inscribed on the UNESCO list. Kalwaria is also famous for its mystery plays, which are staged every year on Good Friday. Among the nearby places of interest is Lanckorona, which has retained the charm of a small Galician town with its slop- Weekend around... ing, cobbled market square, and the reconstructed one-sto- Tarnów rey wooden houses. If you visit Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, which used to be frequent- Day trips from Tarnów offer many marvellous buildings ed by Karol Wojtyła as a place of prayer (also after he became and monuments. In the Petrified City you can find original Pope), it is worth making a trip to Wadowice, the birthplace of sandstone monadnocks, formed in various shapes as a re- the Polish Pope, situated only 15 km to the west. The market sult of erosion. Not far from Tarnów, along the Dunajec val- square in Wadowice is dominated by the tower of the the Vir- ley, you can find picturesquely situated mountain lakes – gin Mary’s Offertory Minor Basilica, a late-Gothic church from Czchowskie and Rożnowskie (described in the section on the end of the 17th century, where Karol Wojtyła was baptised. weekend trips from Nowy Sącz). There are several spots Next to the small tenement house where the future Pope was along the bank which have been adapted for swimmers. born, there is a museum dedicated to his life. After the visit, you You can also hire water sports equipment. can have a rest in the nearby cafe and enjoy a Wadowice cream As for the original historic buildings around Tarnów, one cake. From Wadowice it is worth going for a hike in the Low Be- has to mention the late-Gothic church in Dębno, as well skids, to the Leskowiec peak and the neighbouring Groń Jana as the magnificent aristocratic residence in Nowy Wiśnicz, Pawła II (the Mountain of John Paul II). which was built at the turn of the 17th century. Bochnia boasts the oldest Polish salt mine (even older than the one Family Home of John Paul II, ul. Kościelna 7, Wadowice, in Wieliczka), whereas in Lipnica Murowana you can visit \ +48 33 8232662, / www.domrodzinnyjanapawla.pl; a UNESCO-listed wooden church. Of tourist interest is also › May–Sept, Tue–Sun 9am–1pm and 2am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Zalipie, with its living folk tradition and flower-patterned Tue–Sun 9am–noon and 1pm–4pm; voluntary donations. houses and furniture.

10 11 Almost 10 km south of Wiśnicz, in the valley of the Uszwica river, there is a village of Lipnica Murowana. It is famous not only for the Easter Palm contest organised during the Palm Sunday, but also for the UNESCO-listed wooden church of St. Leonard. On the way back to Tarnów, you should definitely visit Dębno and see the beautiful little castle of the Dębiński family, built of brick and stone at the end of the 15th century, which presently houses an interesting museum. Bochnia Salt Mine, ul. Solna 2, \ +48 14 6153636, / www.ko- palniasoli.pl; visits only with a guide; › Mon–Fri 9.30am, 11.30am and 3.30pm, Sat and Sun every hour from 10.15am to 4.15pm; Jan–March and Sept PLN 24, concessions: PLN 19; Apr–Dec PLN 30, concessions: PLN 22; family ticket: PLN 77; Photography: PLN 5. Nowy Wiśnicz Castle, ul. Zamkowa 13, \ +48 14 6128589, / www.zamekwisnicz.pl, › Apr–Oct, Mon–Thu 9am–4pm, Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm, Sunday and holidays 10am–6pm; Nov–March, daily 9am–4pm; PLN 8, concessions: PLN 5. Ko- ryznówka Manor House – Museum of Jan Matejko, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów, Stary Wiśnicz 148, \ +48 14 6128347; › Tue–Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 11am–3pm; PLN 5, concessions: PLN 3; photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 10.Museum of Antique Interiors – Dębno Castle, part of the Regional Museum in Tarnów; Dębno 189, \ +48 14 6658035, / www.zamekdeb- Bochnia salt mine, photo by M. Zaręba no.pl; › Nov–Apr, Tue and Thu 10am–4pm, Wed and Fri 9am– 3pm, Sat and Sun 11am–2pm; Jul–Aug, open until 6pm; PLN 8, concessions: PLN 4. A taste of the Bochnia salt Castle in Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by M. Zaręba The oldest operating salt mine in Poland is located in Boch- nia. Here, like in Wieliczka, salt has been extracted since the 18th century. However, the salt mine in Bochnia was estab- lished a few dozen years earlier. A visit to this salt kingdom is a little bit shorter than to Wieliczka and includes, among other things, a visit to the chapel, the underground chambers and a display of old mining machines. The mine also offers an underground slide and a ride on a colliery train. From Bochnia, situated 45 km west of Tarnów, you can go to Nowy Wiśnicz, which is only 5 km to the south. Here, by the market square, you can find a few elegant tenement houses and a beautiful church from the early Baroque. The town is located in the shadow of a hill with a marvellous Renaissance castle of the Kmita family from the 15th and 16th century, which was reconstructed in the following century by the Lubomir- ski family into a huge bastion fortress. At the foot of the castle there is an interesting and intimate wooden Koryznówka Manor House, which houses the Museum of Jan Matejko.

12 13 The Petrified City, photo by D. Gębuś Zalipie, photo by P. Mierniczak

A trip to the Petrified City Painted Cottages Only 18 km south of Tarnów lies the town of Tuchów, where you Travelling up north from Tarnów, along Dunajec, through can find a Redemptorist monastery with a shrine of the Virgin Żabno, you will reach Zalipie, located 34 km from Tarnów. Mary. 11 km further down the Biała river valley, you will see the This village is famous for the original tradition of decorat- village of Gromnik with its beautiful wooden church from 1727. ing houses, farm buildings and even wells and kennels with The road along the river then leads to Ciężkowice. In this town, colourful flower patterns on a white background. The cot- near the neo-Gothic church there is a market square surround- tages are also decorated inside along with the house equip- ed by historic buildings from the 18th and 19th century, includ- ment. This tradition is still alive: there is an annual competi- ing arcaded wooden houses. tion for the best decorated house. Tourists can admire the Near Ciężkowice extends the reserve of the Petrified City, beautiful old farm of Felicja Curyłowa, which is a classical where you can see rocks in fanciful shapes reflected by their names, example of a decorated cottage from Zalipie. such as: the Witch, the Badger, the Pyramids and the Town Hall. On the way back to Tarnów, it is worth moving to the On the other side of the Biała river valley, hidden in a quiet western bank of Dunajec. Not far from Szczurowa is the vil- park in Kąśna Dolna, you can find themanor house of Igna- lage Dołęga, situated at the edge of a forest. This is a great cy Paderewski, which currently houses a museum dedicated opportunity to get a taste of what a typical residence of to the life of the famous pianist. the early 20th-century gentry looked like. In Dołęga there is also a charming, classical manor house from around Manor house, Kąśna Dolna, UMWM photo archive 1845, with the preserved interior design from the turn of the century.

Felicja Curyłowa Farm, Zalipie 135, \ +48 14 6411912, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; › Tue–Sun 10am–2pm; PLN 3, concessions: PLN 2, photography: PLN 5, filming: PLN 15. Manor House in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, \ +48 14 6715414, / www.muzeum.tarnow.pl; › Tue–Fri 9am– 3pm, Sat and Sun 10am–2pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.

14 15 Town hall in Nowy Sącz, photo by J. Gorlach Orthodox church in Powroźnik, photo by P. Mierniczak

A weekend around... A trip down the Poprad river gorge Nowy Sącz to Krynica Nowy Sącz lies in the extensive mountainous valley, between Stary Sącz is only 8 km from Nowy Sącz. Its vast market the hills of Beskid Wyspowy, Sądecki and the Low Beskids. square surrounded by historic low buildings is not the only Around here you can enjoy a number of leisure activities, tourist attraction of the city. In the 13th century, a fortified such as hiking and cycling up steep slopes, peaks and moun- convent of St. Clare was founded by Princess Kinga, the tain passes. A visit to Nowy Sącz is also a perfect opportunity wife of Prince Bolesław V the Chaste. After her husband’s to explore the culture of the Ruthinian highlanders (the Lem- death, Kinga became a nun, and nowadays she is recog- kos) who live in the Low Beskids. Surrounded by mountains nised by the Catholics as a saint. are the beautiful wooden Orthodox temples, which have South of Stary Sącz the Poprad Valley narrows. Travelling subsequently been changed into Christian churches but through Rytro, with its ruins of a 13th-century castle, you will have preserved the three characteristic tall, bulbous towers. arrive at Piwniczna-Zdrój. Across Poprad, at the stretch be- Nowy Sącz is also the place to go for those who like tween the two towns, flatboat rallies are organised. spending time close to water. You can choose between In Muszyna you leave the Poprad Valley and head for the water reservoirs in Klimkówka, the Rożnowskie and Krynica. On the way, you pass by the village of Powroźnik, Czchowskie Lakes, where you can swim and practice var- with its wooden Lemko Orthodox church from 1600. ious water sports. Krynica-Zdrój is a famous spa situated at the foot of Ja- In the winter you should visit the many skiing areas, in- worzyna Krynicka (1114 m asl). You can reach the top of cluding the cable-railway to Jaworzyna Krynicka, the new this mountain by cable railway. On the slope there is a ski skiing area in Rytro, and the biggest one in Wierchomla resort. The main attraction of the town centre are the im- Mała. Sightseeing Nowy Sącz is an occasion to visit “the wa- pressive old wooden villas. One of them houses the muse- ters”. The town is located very near numerous mineral water um of Nikifor Krynicki, a famous primitivist Lemko paint- springs, including the most beautiful spa in Krynica-Zdrój. er from the Low Beskids.

16 17 Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by M. Zaręba At the foot of the Low Beskids Church in Tropie, UMWM photo archive Czchowskie Lake, photo by S. Gacek Travelling from Nowy Sącz to the east, in the direction of the Beskid hills, it is worth paying a visit to the biggest her- Around the Czchowskie itage park in Małopolska, i.e. Sądecki Ethnographic Park. and Rożnowskie Lakes The most interesting village in the Low Beskids is Łosie, once famous for the production of grease (used as a med- The main road from Nowy Sącz to Brzesko cuts across very ication or lubricant). Today the Lemko culture and the trav- picturesque lands. Right after passing Tęgoborze village you els of “greasers” from Łosie in particular, is portrayed at drive into the mountain pass of St. Just (400 m asl), which a permanent exhibition and along the walking trail. Near is a perfect vantage point. Another local tourist attraction is Łosie the Ropa River is separated with a dam, which creates the church of the Blessed Virgin Mary from the second half the Klimkówka Lake (conducive to windsurfing). of the 17th century, which is situated over the mountain pass. In the Ropa Valley, 34 km from Nowy Sącz, lies the town Further, the road leads to the Czchowskie Lake. Right above of Szymbark, known for its interesting heritage park and it, on a steep rock sits the Tropsztyn Castle. A few kilometres the manor of the Gładysz family, a fortified gentry resi- further up north of Czchów, the remains of another castle ap- dence from the 16th century. pear in the form of a massive tower. In the town itself you can A few kilometres further, in Gorlice, you may wish to see the visit the market square with wooden houses and a church manor house of the Karwacjan family from the 15th century, from the 13th century. Another temple from this period, the and a monument of the first street oil lamp, commemorat- church of Sts. Svorad and Benedict, can ing its inventor, Ignacy Łukasiewicz, who was born in Gorlice. be found in the nearby village of Tropie. Sądecki Ethnographic Park, ul. Wieniawy Długoszew- Side roads lead from Tropie to Rożnów, skiego 83b, \ +48 18 5331823, / www.muzeum.sacz.pl; which boasts a 16th-century bastion. › May–Sept, Tue–Sun 10am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri A little bit further, the valley is divided 10am–2pm; PLN 12, concessions: PLN 7, Sat: admis- by a concrete dam, thanks to which the sion free. The Prof. Roman Reinfuss Heritage Park of Rożnowskie Lake was formed. The scenic Pogórzańska Village in Szymbark, / www.gorlice. routes lead from Rożnów through Gródek art.pl; › May–Sept, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm; by the Dunajec river, high over the eastern Oct–Apr, Mon–Fri 9am–3pm; PLN 4 and PLN 7, conces- slopes of the lake in the direction of Nowy sions: PLN 2 and PLN 4, Thu: admission free. Sącz. The whole route is about 75 km long.

18 19 A view on Giewont, photo by J. Gorlach Cable car to Kasprowy Wierch, photo by J. Gorlach A weekend around… Zakopane Zakopane and the Tatra Mountains Zakopane is a place where you cannot run out of things to Visiting Zakopane is a perfect opportunity to learn about do. The same goes for its surrounding areas, particularly the wooden architecture of Podhale highlanders, and to see the majestic Tatra Mountains, which are a perfect tourist the beautiful villas in Zakopane style, which was inspired by destination in the summer and winter. the folklore of this region. It is worth visiting the Koliba vil- In the town itself you can find the original, wooden Pod- la, housing the Museum of Zakopane Style. Other unique hale-style buildings. Taking a trip through Podhale, which is examples of the Zakopane style include the Pod Jedlami one of the most important tourist regions in Poland, you can villa and the charming chapel in Jaszczurówka designed encounter many precious monuments, e.g. a small UNESCO- by Stanisław Witkiewicz, the creator of the Zakopane style. listed church in Dębno Podhalańskie, as well as the great cas- In the vicinity of Krupówki, a famous Zakopane prome- tles in Czorsztyn and Niedzica, which lie above the waters of nade, there is the grand building of the Tatra Museum de- the Czorsztyńskie Lake. (In the summer swimming areas are voted to the mountains, the Podhale folklore and the his- created around the lake along with places where you can hire tory of the exploration of the Tatra Mountains. water sports equipment.) The biggest attraction of Pieniny You can also find many churches and monasteries in Za- is rafting down the Dunajec river gorge. Water forcing its kopane. However, most pilgrims go to the sanctuary of our way through rocky walls creates an unforgettable landscape. Lady of Fatima in Krzeptówki, which is run by the Pallotines In the winter, Zakopane offers high-quality ski slopes, in- and strongly linked with John Paul II. cluding the famous runs on the slopes of Kasprowy Wierch, Before you travel from Zakopane Gubałówka, Szymoszkowa, and Antałówka. Other local to the Tatra Mountains, it is worth tak- towns also known among ski lovers are Białka Tatrzańska ing a funicular railway to the top of and Kluszkowce. Gubałówka (1120 m asl). This pictur- When you are finished skiing, you can have a rest in the esque mountain ridge emerges from the modern, recently opened baths with thermal waters. Such north of Zakopane, just on the opposite baths can also be found in Zakopane, Bukowina Tatrzańska side of the Giewont peak. Another way and in Biały Dunajec. to admire the mountain panorama is to

20 21 take a ride on a cable car from Kuźnice to Kasprowy Wierch (1985 m asl). The most beautiful lake in the Tatra Mountains is Morskie Oko, lying at the foot of the highest peak in Poland, Rysy (2499 m asl). The lake can be reached by a 10 km asphalt road, also frequented by horse buses. The best place to stop by and take a rest after an ex- hausting hike is a newly built water park at the foot of Antałówka, which offers thermal water baths. Tatra Museum in Zakopane – Main Building, ul. Krupówki 10, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2015205, / www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl; › Wed–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 9am–3pm; PLN 7, concessions: PLN 5.50. The Museum of Zakopane Style, ul. Kościeliska 18, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2013602, / www.muzeumtatrzańskie. com.pl; › as above. Funicular Rail Gubałówka, ul. Na Gubałówkę, Zakopane, \ +48 18 2014830, / www.pkl.pl; › rides: July–Aug, 8am–9.45pm; Jan–June and Sept, 9am– Chochołów, UMWM photo archive 8pm; Oct, 9am–7pm; Nov–Dec, 9am–6pm; one way in high season: PLN 10, return: PLN 15, concessions: PLN 8 and PLN 12. Through Podhale and Orawa Cableway to Kasprowy Wierch, Kuźnice, \ +48 18 2014510, Podhale, one of the most beautiful regions of Poland, / www.pkl.pl; › rides: return; Jul–Aug, 7.30am–7pm; Apr–Jun stretches at the foot of the Tatra Mountains. Several doz- and Sept–Oct, 7.30am–4pm; March, 7.30am–3.30pm; Feb, en years ago, all villages in Podhale only featured wooden 7.30am–3pm; Nov-Jan, 7.30 am–2pm; one way in high sea- cottages with shingled roofs. At present, only the village son: PLN 32, return: PLN 42, concessions: PLN 27 and PLN 32. of Chochołów, situated 20 km from Zakopane, retained its Aqua Park Zakopane – thermal baths, ul. Jagiellońska 31, character. Some of the cottages in Chochołów were built \ +48 18 202 5815, / www.aquapark.zakopane.pl; › daily, of massive timber logs, so that the entire wall was made 9am–10pm; PLN 13-60. up of only two thick beams! A view on Morskie Oko, UMWM photo archive From Chochołów you may go through the extensive peat bogs and flatlands of Kotlina Nowotarska until you reach the Orawa region. Travelling through Czarny Duna- jec and Jabłonka, you will get to the village of Orawka, with a wooden, Gothic church from 1656. The folk buildings of the Orawa region do not resemble the architecture of Podhale, which you can observe in the heritage park in Zubrzyca Górna, displaying numerous cottages in Orawa style, with wyżka, a chamber in the attic. A tremendous massif of Babia Góra (1725 m asl), referred to as the Queen of the Beskids, looms over Orawa. It is also the highest peak of the Beskids. A trek to the peak is not very demanding, as the road from Zubrzyca Górna takes you up to the height of 1000 m, to the Krowiarki pass. This trail leads through the area of Babia Góra National Park, and the walk to Babia Góra takes approx. 2 hrs 30 minutes. Orawa Ethnographic Park in Zubrzyca Górna, \ +48 18 285 2709, / www.orawa.eu; › daily, May–Sept, 8.30am–5pm; Oct–Apr, 8.30am–2.30pm; PLN 18, concessions: PLN 12.

22 23 Oscypek cheese, UMWM photo archive Redyk herding, UMWM photo archive

Tatra National Park, UMWM photo archive Through Podhale in search of oscypek It is worth making some stops on the way to or from Zako- For centuries, the highlanders in Podhale have pastured sheep pane. In Chabówka, situated 40 km away from Zakopane, on grazing lands, situated high up in the mountains. Today, one there is the Rolling Stock Heritage Park with historic car- of the symbols of Podhale, and the most famous regional deli- riages and engines. cacy is oscypek, i.e. a smoked, hard sheep’s cheese. From Chabówka you can go through Jordanów to Sucha There is a special Oscypek Route which leads through Beskidzka (33 km). This town is famous for a beautiful ren- the Podhale. It enables you to visit bacówki (shepherd’s aissance castle, proudly bearing the name of “a small Wa- huts) in which local specialties are produced, including os- wel” owing to the charm of arcaded cloisters at the court- cypek, a spicy bryndza (ewe’s milk cheese) and other deli- yard. In the centre of Sucha there is an 18th century wooden cacies made of sheep’s milk. tavern named Rzym (Rome), presently a restaurant. In the surroundings of Zakopane it is worth going for a walk to the picturesque valleys of the Tatra Mountains: Rolling Stock Heritage Park in Chabówka, \ +48 18 267 6200, Kościeliska and Chochołowska. In both of them you will / www.parowozy.pl; › daily, 7am–7pm; PLN 5, concessions: find huts producingoscypek , and along the way you can ad- PLN 2.5, tour with a guide: PLN 20. Municipal Museum in Sucha mire the landscape of the limestone Western Tatras. Oscypek Beskidzka castle, ul. Zamkowa 1, \ +48 33 874 2605, / www. is also produced in Gorce. This mountain range, which in- muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl; › May–Oct, Tue–Fri 9am–5pm, cludes Gorczański National Park, is rarely visited by the tour- Sat–Sun 10am–6pm; Nov–Apr, Tue–Fri 8am–4pm; Sat–Sun 9am– ists, while a beautiful, extensive Hala Długa (Long Pasture) 3pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4. at the foot of Turbacz (1310 m asl) is one of the places where Sucha Beskidzka castle photo by P. Marekwica a shepherd hut producing oscypek can be found. You can climb it from Kowaniec (district of Nowy Targ) or from Łopuszna village, which is a less attended trail. In Łopuszna it is also worth seeing a wooden church from the second half of the 15th century, and an 18th century man- or house of the Tetmajer family, now housing an interesting Museum of Gentry Culture. Information about Oscypek Route: / www.tatry.pl. Mu- zeum Kultury Szlacheckiej (Museum of Gentry Culture), ul. Gorczańska 2, Łopuszna, \ +48 18 2653919; › Wed–Sun 10am–4pm; PLN 6, concessions: PLN 4.50.

24 25 Rafting down Dunajec gorge, photo by T. Gębuś View from the peak of Sokolica, photo by D. Zaród Czorsztyn Lake, photo by J. Gorlach

Rafting down the Dunajec gorge to Pieniny Around Czorsztyn Lake The wonderful scenery of the Dunajec river gorge in Pie- At the foot of Pieniny and Gorce stretches a picturesque niny, with 300-metre rocks makes an unforgettable im- Czchowskie Lake. On the lake shore you can find beaches pression. Rafting on Dunajec between Sromowce and and water sports equipment rentals; sailing in such scen- Krościenko is one of the most unique tourist attractions in ery is a pure pleasure! Małopolska; therefore, it is worth coming here from Zako- On the southern side of the lake, just above the dam pane, even though it is a distance of 55 km. that separates Dunajec and that contributed to the crea- Tourist routes through the Pieniny National Park lead to tion of the lake, towers the castle in Niedzica. This build- vantage points on the peaks of Sokolica and Trzy Korony ing was used as a watchtower on the Polish-Hungarian (Three Crowns) (982 m asl), Pieniny’s highest mountain. A near- border that used to run here. On the opposite side of Nid- by town of Szczawnica is an old spa with numerous mineral zica, on the steep hill, you will find the ruins of the cas- sources, historic wooden spa buildings, and a cable car to tle in Czorsztyn. This fortress used to guard the Dunajec the Palenica peak (719 m asl), from which you can take a trip crossing, and today it is adapted for sightseeing and con- along the picturesque mountain range of Małe Pieniny. In the stitutes a perfect vantage point. neighbouring Jawory, you can find small charming naturere - On the opposite edge of the lake it is worth visiting serves: Homole Gorge and Biała Woda Gorge. a picturesque Dębno Podhalańskie village. The church of St. Michael the Archangel that can be found here is Rafting on Dunajec – The Polish Association of Pieniny Raft- a masterpiece from 1480, created by carpenter craftsmen. ers, \ +48 18 2629721, / www.flisacy.com.pl; › rafts operate It is also one out of four wooden churches in Małopolska from Apr–Oct; booking desks are open daily: May–Aug, 8.30am– inscribed on the UNESCO list. 5pm; Sept, 8.30am–4pm; Apr, 9am–4pm; Oct, 9am–3pm; to Szczawnica: PLN 44, concessions: PLN 22; to Krościenko: PLN 53, Museum of the Castle Complex in Niedzica, \ +48 18 2629489; concessions: PLN 26.50. Cable car - Palenica, ul. Główna 7, Szcza- › May–Sep, daily 9am–7pm; Oct–Nov, Tue–Sun 9am–4pm; wnica, \ +48 18 262199, / www.pkl.pl; › Jul–Aug and Jan–Feb, PLN 9, concessions: PLN 7; visits only with a guide; ticket price 9am–7.30pm; May–Jun, 9am–18.30pm; Sept, 9am–6pm; March– includes a visit to a tower and a coach house. The Ruins of the Apr and Oct, 9am–5.30pm; Nov, 9am–4.30pm; Dec, 9am–3.30pm; Czorsztyn Castle, › May–Sep, daily 9am–6pm; Oct–Apr, Tue– in high season: one way: PLN 8, return: PLN 12. Sun 10am–3pm; PLN 4, concessions: PLN 2.

26 27 Małopolska Tourist Information PunktySystem InformacjiPoints Turystycznej

KraKów sucha besKiDzKa InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, 31-101 Kraków ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka \+48 513 099 688, \+48 33 874 26 05, [email protected] [email protected] InfoKraków, ul. Św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków oświęciM \+48 12 421 77 87 ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim InfoKraków Os. Słoneczne 16, \+48 33 843 00 91, 31-958 Kraków [email protected] \+48 12 643 03 03 chrzanów InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów \+48 12 422 04 71 \+48 32 623 20 44, [email protected] InfoKraków Sukiennice, Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków Trzebinia \+48 12 433 73 10 ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia \+48 32 612 14 97, InfoKraków Sanktuarium w Łagiewnikach, [email protected] ul. Siostry Faustyny 3, 30-608 Kraków \+48 12 263 60 64 zaKopane ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, \+48 18 201 20 04, 31-024 Kraków [email protected] \+48 12 432 01 10 poronin InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiański ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 \+48 18 207 42 98, \+48 12 616 18 86 [email protected] InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port wiTów Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów \+48 12 285 53 41 \+48 18 207 18 98, Myślenice [email protected] Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice biały Dunajec \+48 12 272 23 12, ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec [email protected] \+48 18 200 16 90, wiśniowa [email protected] Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa białKa TaTrzańsKa \+48 12 271 44 93, ul. Środkowa 16, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska [email protected] \+48 18 533 19 59, Dobczyce [email protected] ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce nowy Targ \+48 12 271 01 53, Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ [email protected] \+48 18 266 30 36, olKusz [email protected] ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz rabKa-zDrój \+48 32 72 43 282, ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój [email protected] \+48 18 269 15 53, Miechów [email protected] Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów nowy sącz \+48 41 383 13 11, ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz [email protected] \+48 18 444 24 22, Tarnów [email protected] Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów Krynica-zDrój \+48 14 688 90 90, ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój [email protected] \+48 18 472 55 77, Tuchów [email protected] ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów liManowa \+48 14 652 54 36, Rynek, 34-600 Limanowa [email protected] \+48 18 337 58 00, Dąbrowa TarnowsKa [email protected] ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska biecz \+48 14 657 00 07, it.dabrowa- Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz [email protected] \+48 13 447 92 47, waDowice [email protected] ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice sęKowa \+48 33 873 23 65, it.wadowice@msit. Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa malopolska.pl \+48 18 351 87 70, anDrychów [email protected] Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów \+48 33 842 99 36, [email protected]