Food Worth the Drive
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Worth The Drive Good food is essential to good travel, and in Oklahoma, some of the best reasons to get in the car are culinary. For the fourth year running, we’ve rounded up some of the state’s best destinations for turning a full tank of gas into a full belly. PHOTOGRAPHY BY LORI DUCKWORTH The Rock House in Talihina was created with date night in mind, and the nearly 100-year-old stone building has romantic views of the nearby Kiamichi Mountains (page 74). 58 March/April 2017 OklahomaToday.com 59 CHEESE, CHEESE ME Chouteau’s Amish Cheese house sells ALVA while living in Germany, and now the nearly sixty varieties of cheese including Taco Village Albanian immigrants and their teenage Bermuda onion and mango fire cheddar. In 1972, if Alva residents wanted children run one of southeastern Mexican cuisine, they had to drive Oklahoma’s best spots for delectable more than seventy miles out of town Italian dishes. It’s made them a lot of to find it—at least until Dudley friends in this small town. Brown, who owned an account- “In this community, everybody ing business at the time, decided to knows everybody, so people walk in change that. and we say, ‘Do you want your usual?’” “We would go to Enid once a week says Enxhi, Gezim and Adriana’s for Mexican food,” says Resa Har- daughter. “We know their names, ris, Brown’s daughter and co-owner their kids’ names, their pets, their JJ RITCHEY of Taco Village. “My mom could great-grandma.” cook pretty good Mexican food, and Those looking for a taste of the my parents decided that’s what they old country will do well to check wanted to do.” out house specialties like Chicken Now, almost forty-five years later, Carchovi—artichoke hearts, grilled Harris still uses the recipes her parents chicken, mushrooms, and spaghetti developed in their kitchen. From the in creamy white sauce—or the Chef’s large and satisfying Sancho plate—a Favorite with grilled chicken, broccoli, huge tortilla filled with creamy refried bell peppers, and jalapeños sautéed beans and well-seasoned meat topped in that same white sauce with penne with chili and cheese—to the thin tor- pasta. But whether hunger calls for “Whenever people tilla chips with molten cheese sauce, pizza, sandwich, salad, or any number this menu makes Alva natives eager to of pasta dishes, lovers of Italian dining return to Alva, they’ve come home. will find their cravings sated here. “Whenever people return to Alva, —Nathan Gunter always got to go to the they say they’ve always got to go to the Taco Village first,” Harris says. Taco Village first.” —Leighona Bernstein WHEN, WHERE, HOW MUCH: Monday through , Taco Village Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 —RESA HARRIS p.m. 315 East Court Street, (580) 364-0221. WHEN, WHERE, HOW MUCH: Monday through Fri- day, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4:30 DID YOU KNOW: Those hoping for a p.m. 828 Oklahoma Boulevard, (580) 327-1357. healthy option should look no further than the Roma Salad with lettuce, DID YOU KNOW: Visitors from as far away tomatoes, garlic, cheese, artichoke as Wisconsin have been known to hearts, bell peppers, mushrooms, stop at Taco Village and get an order capers, and black olives in a lemon of twenty or more frozen burritos to dressing. Add grilled chicken or take home. shrimp for an extra bit of protein. ATOKA CHOUTEAU The number of forks Luigi’s Italian Restaurant Amish Cheese House equates to the average For many, a thriving small-town Defy food that trends toward the cost of an entrée downtown is a perfect symbol of complex and revel in the simple good- and beverage. America. And on the picturesque ness of a fresh homemade sandwich at Court Street—Atoka’s main drag—the the Amish Cheese House in Chou- At Luigi’s Italian Restaurant in Atoka, = $10 and under owner and chef Gezim Mustafaraj creates American dream is an everyday reality teau. Opened in 2000 as a deli and for Gezim and Adriana Mustafaraj, bulk foods market selling products dishes like the Chef’s Favorite with grilled = $11 and up owners of Luigi’s Italian Restaurant. sourced from Amish wholesalers, chicken, broccoli, bell peppers, black Gezim learned to cook Italian food the Cheese House became a culinary olives, and jalapeños in a white sauce. 60 March/April 2017 OklahomaToday.com 61 destination on the strength of its deli the best delicacies western Oklahoma counter sandwiches. As its reputation has to offer. grew, so did its space. “The cheese boards are sort of my “Every time we added more tables, puppies,” says owner Nelson King. we filled them,” says owner Wes Miller. “I’m always looking for more cheeses.” These sandwiches are made to —Kristin Kenney order with Amish meats and cheeses and country-style bread baked daily at the onsite Nettie Ann’s Bakery. WHEN, WHERE, HOW MUCH: Wednesday through They are best paired with soup like Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. 22901 North Route creamy chicken with locally made 66 Service Road, (580) 323-6922. Amish noodles. For dessert, try one DID YOU KNOW HAIR OF THE DOG of the sixteen flavors of homemade : White Dog Hill is named At White Dog Hill’s Beany Bar, ice cream like Orange Pineapple for King’s dog, who passed away in diners waiting for a table can or Purple Cow. And visitors can 2016 and is buried on the property. grab a drink in style. take a taste of this remarkable place The Beany Bar downstairs is named away with more than 2,500 prod- after King’s other dog, Beans. ucts from the adjoining market like BROSCH/SHUTTERSTOCK JAVIER Amish-made jams, cheese balls, and COLLINSVILLE fudge.—Brooke Adcox Scoops & Grinds Hot or cold? Caffeine buzz or sugar rush? Scoops & Grinds on Collins- WHEN, WHERE, HOW MUCH: Monday through Fri- ville’s quaint Main Street offers it all day, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. for those in need of a little nudge to 101 South Chouteau Avenue, (918) 476-4811 get through the day. The small, sunny or amishcheesehouse.com. store serves café standards made from locally roasted coffee beans. Try the DID YOU KNOW: The Amish speak Penn- Caramel Steamer—steamed milk with sylvania Dutch, a language owner caramel syrup—or a dirty chai latte Leah Miller speaks with her Amish with steamed milk, chai tea, and an staff members. espresso shot. Scoops & Grinds also makes its CLINTON own ice cream in-house weekly using White Dog Hill an Italian gelato freezer. Varieties “The cheese boards are A gravel road off Route 66 leads rotate, but the Mocha Amore, using to the restaurant at the top of a rise house espresso, almonds, and dark sort of my puppies. I’m with spectacular views of the sur- chocolate ice cream, is a local favor- rounding prairie. First-timers may ite. The shop also features house- always looking for come to Clinton’s White Dog Hill baked goods like Lemonies—iced for the vista, but their senses soon are lemon bars with a brownie-like tex- more cheeses.” drawn away from the window toward ture—and delicate blueberry scones. , White Dog Hill the food. Chef Jacqui Thunderbull —Becky Carman —NELSON KING keeps things interesting by changing the menu each week with popular entrée specials such as crab cakes, WHEN, WHERE, HOW MUCH: Tuesday through lamb chops, game hens in the winter, Thursday, 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Curated cheese boards and dishes and sandwich specials like a jalapeño and Saturday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. 1023 West Main like shrimp skewers—not to mention burger on a ciabatta bun. Street, (918) 553-8010 or scoopsandgrinds.com. a stunning view of the surrounding Watching the sun set over the hill prairie—have made White Dog Hill one with a glass of wine and a cheese DID YOU KNOW: Owners Judy and Chris of western Oklahoma’s most popular board with fruit, stuffed olives, nuts, Broyles match customer donations to date night attractions. and a rustic bâtard might be one of the local animal shelter. 62 March/April 2017 OklahomaToday.com 63 like members of the family and still abides by Zeke Naifeh’s day-one motto: good food, generous portions, and fair prices.—Leighona Bernstein MORNING GOOD Classic Diner in Henryetta is Main Street’s go-to spot WHEN, WHERE HOW MUCH: Tuesday through Sat- for breakfast. urday, 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. 704 Northeast Twelfth Street, (580) 338-5355. JAMES STEIDL/SHUTTERSTOCK DID YOU KNOW: Regulars know to ask for Katrina’s Salad. The big grilled lemon chicken salad on top of a baked potato isn’t on the menu but sometimes will grace the specials board and is always just a polite inquiry away. HENRYETTA Classic Diner While many beloved small-town din- ers affectionately could be called greasy With items like Sicilian Nachos, right, spoons, Henryetta’s Classic Diner hits and shrimp and grits, Abendigo’s provides the spot without leaving guests feeling quality and variety to vacationers in the sluggish. Omelets and hash browns are Beavers Bend State Park area (page 66). light and fresh, and the diner achieves breakfast greatness with perfectly soft biscuits. The expansive menu also includes traditional lunch and dinner options with hard-to-find items such ELK CITY started by inviting family and friends.