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50 BEST GREEK RESTAURANTS ON THE EASTERN COAST

JUNE 7-8, 2014

The National Herald

T H D E L N A AT ER IONAL H www.thenationalherald.com 2 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014

The National Herald The 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast

A weekly publication of the NATIONAL HERALD, INC. From time immemorial, Greek culture has held But there is another reason. The simple delights of not just the and , but also courtesy, (ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ ΚΗΡΥΞ), hospitality sacred. Our ancient ancestors believed one Greek are so complete, so satisfying, it would conversation, sometimes music and dancing. It is reporting the news and of their most crucial duties were to feed and clothe be a crime not to share them. And so eateries abound, Greek food, after all. addressing the issues of the visitors in their homes. Every guest was an from the humblest food truck to the most palatial So dig in to our annual Best Restaurants issue to paramount interest to the Greek honored guest. Perhaps the venerable history of Greek dining room. They all hold the same philosophy: read about new developments in Greek , hospitality explains why restaurants prove to be the eating and drinking is not for mere sustenance, but an enjoy new recipes, and see if your favorites made the American community of the most popular Hellenic trade, generation after opportunity to connect with one another. As the list. United States of America. generation, no matter where find themselves. ancients would put it, “to recline at table,” to savor Kali Orexi! Publisher-Editor Antonis H. Diamataris Assistant to Publisher, Advertising Veta H. Diamataris Papadopoulos Special Section Editor Sophia Stratakis Huling Production Manager Chrysoula Karametros Marketing & Design Director Anna Angelidakis

37-10 30th Street LIC, NY 11101-2614 Tel: (718)784-5255 Fax: (718)472-0510, e-mail: [email protected] EOS RESTAURANT MYKONOS GREEKTOWN GRILLE Democritou 1 and Academias Sts, Athens, 10671, Tel: 011.30.210.3614.598 CONNECTICUT open and showcases occasional urday night. They even have a favorite. “Beautiful food, very been in tentacle utopia for years Fax: 011.30.210.3643.776 live music. 490 Summer Street doggie friendly patio, for four- good service, good prices, big thanks to Kyma. The restaurant e-mail: [email protected] Stamford, Conn. 06901 (203) legged customers. 1230 Cleve - menu,” praises one TNH con - grills it to crisp smokiness and EOS 569-6250 eosgreekcuisine.com land Street, Clearwater, Fla. tributor. 628 Dodecanese Blvd., serves it over a simple pickled With its recently revamped Entrées: $14-$37 (727) 447-7800 greektown - Tarpon Springs, Fla. 34689 red onion salad with a splash of menu, this elegant spot boasts grille.com Entrées: $12-$25 (727) 914-4306 Entrées: $10- red vinaigrette. Opa, y’all. fresh contemporary Greek cui - $20 3085 Piedmont Road, Atlanta, sine and was rated by FLORIDA MYKONOS Ga. 30305-2624 (404) 262- ctnews.com as one of the 13 "Spitiki Kouzina" ("Home 0702 buckheadrestaurants.com spots to enjoy Easter brunch in ") trumpets the front GEORGIA Entrées: $24-$36 Stamford. Highlights include the GREEKTOWN GRILLE awning of this "hole in the wall" EOS Burger (with beef, , and “Clearwater has a winner on casual restaurant open since – plus homemade its hands,” lauded the Tampa 1993, and most agree it KYMA MASSACHUSSETS fries), Kotopoulo me Prassa Bay Times when the Kara - has some of the best Greek food Executive Pano Karatas - (chicken with leeks) and whole mountzos family opened this on the sponge dock area. Fresh sos made waves in 1979 with fish. There is flaming cheese, eatery in 2008. All the favorites octopus caught daily in the Gulf Pano’s and Paul’s, and in 1987 AEGEAN RESTAURANT sticks and are on hand: mousaka, , of Mexico, a large menu includ - built the Buckhead Life Restau - “It’s simple. Come hungry. classics like Imam Bayaldi (egg - lamb youvetsi, dolmades, and a ing and go rant group, adding this contem - Leave happy,” is the philosophy plant). Sip Iced or gyro platter Yelp users love. alongside the plentiful entrées, porary Greek spot in behind the homestyle dishes at a White Sangria made with There is Euro-Arabic music and including fish by the pound. The 2001. Octopus is a hot ingredi - Nicholas and Toula Ntasios’ two Samos Muscat. The patio is dancing every Friday and Sat - , as expected, is a huge ent nationally, but Atlanta has restaurants, the first of which debuted in 1981 in Framing - ham. There is a nice selection of imported and a creative special mixed menu. “The Improper Bostonian” calls it “the next best thing to having Greek friends who put a spit in the yard come Easter.” 257 Co - chituate Road, Route 30 Fram - ingham, Mass. 01701 (508) T

N 879-8424 and 640 Arsenal A

R Street, Watertown, Mass. 02472

U T A (617) 923-7771 aegeanrestau - T N S A E

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A K A E E Corner’s Special Gyro and E M G R E Y K G A Souvlaki are among the popular THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast 3 4 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014

OLYMPIA RESTAURANT

MYKONOS GRILL A TASTE OF GREECE IT’S GREEK TO ME sandwiches at this cozy spot opened in 1989 in signature such as the “ Sour” made pura-style calamari, the mousaka (“like eating a with Solomos Kalamata, Kotopoulo Sparti – but college town Cambridge. There are lots of appe - with ouzo, , syrup, juice and an egg cloud”), and the Psari-sto-, a family recipe also Tenafly. The menu was designed tizers and tons of vegetarian entrées, but also a white. The Baltimore Sun rated it number 13 of that encases fresh haddock and a white wine and by Chef Alex Gorant and food expert Diane Kochi - burger if you so desire at George and Themis Baltimore’s 50 Best Restaurants of 2014.1000 mushroom sauce in filo (Tsoupelis calls it las over a one-month trip throughout Greece, Boretos’ award-winning establishment. The broth - Lancaster Street, Baltimore, Md. 21224 (443) “the Greek version of Wellington”). identifying ingredients from many regions. Great ers’ pastitsio was featured on the Food Network’s 708-5818 www.ouzobay.com Entrées: $19-$75 New Hampshire Magazine named it the Best care is taken with the seafood as well as culinary “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives” in September 2010. in 2011, and it earned the comfort items like Yiayia’s Patates (Grandma’s 2366 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, Mass. MYKONOS GRILL Greater Derry/Londonderry Chamber of Com - Potatoes). Not only the refined , but 02140 (617) 661-5655 www.greekcorner.us. En - Cycladic blue and white predominate here, merce’s Business of the Year award for 2013. An - also the entertainment – with live bouzouki/guitar trées: $11-$17 which the Washington Post has described as “a other invention is the cheesecake, whose nights -- has made this restaurant owned by fa - prescription to happiness.” Fresh fish, traditional name alone is drool-worthy. Hood Commons, 55 ther/son team Michael and Alexander Parlamis, OLYMPIA dishes like lamb shank and appetizer samplers Crystal Avenue, Derry, N.H. 03038 (603) 537- that only opened in 2006, already popular. It has Founded in October 1952, by Socratis and Kiki reign at this 20-year-old institution. Peter Pagonis 0111 amphoranh.com Entrées: $13-$28 the Best of Bergen award under its belt as well as Tingas and relatives Peter and Barbara Cocalis, is from Sparta and his wife is from Athens, but positive New York Times and ZAGAT exposure, this is the oldest family-run restaurant in town – their restaurant is named after their favorite isle. to name a few. AXIA’s Tim Vlahopoulos brings and a real favorite with Lowell’s original Greek There’s no plate-breaking, but plenty of happy, NEW JERSEY customers Greece’s finest . 18 Piermont settlers. An adjacent building houses a function relaxing Greek background music. In 2011, they Road Tenafly, N.J. 07670 (201) 569-5999 hall that can accommodate 300 people. There’s a opened Nostos Restaurant in Vienna, Virginia, www.axiataverna.com Entrées: $17-$40 $10 dine-in menu after 3 p.m. Mondays and Tues - which – as the owners explain – means: “The de - A TASTE OF GREECE days, not including holidays. There is occasional sire to go back to the place where you were Marathon runner, former soccer player and IT’S GREEK TO ME live entertainment, which they hope to increase raised.” That spot is decorated with black and Athens native Themis Mourelatos took over this Three generations of the Papavasiliou family to every Saturday night beginning in September. white photos of Greece of yesterday. 121 Con - intimate location in 2007, and added healthy are involved with this institution, which has be - 453 Market Street Lowell, Mass. 01854 (978) gressional Lane, Rockville, Md. 20852 (301) 770- choices to the menu, including vegetarian dishes. come a chain of nine restaurants. Grandmother 452-8092 newolympia.com Entrées: $9-24 5999 www.mykonosgrill.com Entrées: $14-$31 Daily specials often include seafood, grilled or Ero Papavasiliou’s recipes reign at the restaurants baked in sauce, Greek-style. Yelp users known for their honest Greek food. The New York call it the best Greek restaurant in the area. Food Times called the fare: “fresh, simple and moder - MARYLAND NEW HAMPSHIRE blogger Jason Perlow of Offthebroiler.com praises ately priced.” 1611 Palisade Avenue Fort Lee, N.J. the soups, such as , , and veg - 07024 (201) 947-2050 – plus eight more loca - etable soup as “ in themselves. tions. www.itsgreektome.com Entrées: $8.50-$35 OUZO BAY AMPHORA 935 C Kinderkamack Road, River Edge, N.J. As the name suggests, this Harbor East new - Named for the two-handled vase used in an - 07661 (201) 967-0029 atasteofgreecenj.com En - VARKA comer (opened in autumn 2012) stocks at least tiquity to carry wine and oil, owner Peter trées: $13-$17 From Arctic Char to King Crab Legs and Lan - eight different brands of the signature Greek spirit Tsoupelis opened this modest-looking eatery in goustines, diners are in for seafood sensations at – even one distilled in Madison, Wisc. aptly December 2010, but don’t be fooled by its casual AXIA this spot launched in 2005 by Stavros Angelakos. named “Americanaki.” Patrons love Ouzo Bay’s appearance. Yelp users rave about the tender tem - Take your taste buds for a tour of the world Executive Chef George Georgiades’ innovations A A Y I R A X O B A

H O P Z M U A O A K R A V THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast 5

BAHARI ESTIATORIO LOUKOUMI STAMATIS ZENON TAVERNA include appetizer Lobster Gyros, which is served (smoked pork loin) are among the Cypriot deli - cheese topping a chopped veal burger, (smoked pork loin) and (sausages), a with cucumber tomato relish and mint tzatziki. cacies rarely found in other Greek restaurants. A served with a - spread). “This restau - Cypriot touch distinguishes this popular spot. Rated by Zagat as one of the four best seafood popular item is the $22 (per person, rant blends the old Greek character of the neigh - Since 1988, Stelios and Dora Papageorgiou and restaurants in New Jersey. 30 North Spruce Street, two-person minimum), which offers tastes of 16 borhood with the new contemporary architecture their family have made people feel at home. Yelp Ramsey, N.J. 07446 (201) 995-9333 varkarestau - different appetizers, from the Salata Kipriaki fla - and hip vibe that Astoria is now known for,” said users rave about the authentic rant.com Entrées: $27-$59 vored with lemon and cilantro to the daktila, a Food-guru.com. 34-01 30th Avenue, Astoria, N.Y. and attentive service. 34-10 31st Avenue, Astoria, syrup-dipped dessert served with and 11103 (718) 721-7217 ovelia-nyc.com Entrées: N.Y. 11106 (718) 956-0133 zenontaverna.com cinnamon. Live entertainment every Friday and $14-$32 Entrées $11-$47 NEW YORK (ASTORIA) Saturday nights keeps the joint hopping. 23-15 31st Street, Astoria, NY 11105 (718) 932-3220 STAMATIS kopiastetaverna.com Entrées: $9-$38 The clamor and clatter of happy customers NEW YORK (BROOKLYN) BAHARI ESTIATORIO marks this traditional Astoria favorite with good The staff bustles back and forth between the LOUKOUMI TAVERNA simple food in a frill-free setting. Many New York - displays of the meat/fish ingredients and visible Exposed stone and wooden shutters put you ers swear they can close their eyes and the lamb, OKEANOS in the entry and two pleasant, high- in the taverna mood for comfort food like Stuffed fish and mezedes bring them home to Greece. As its name suggests, this Park Slope eatery is ceilinged dining areas in the back. The Taramos - Halmoumi with and tomatoes and Cor - One Yelp user who made the drive from New Jer - dedicated to seafood. The Village Voice liked the alata is fluffy, the grilled eggplant Melitzanosalata fian eggs. There are eight different sey praised, “It’s the only place where the food and grilled octopus; weekend brunch, is deliciously smoky and the fried calamari is ten - saganaki choices. A highlight is kotopoulo pastit - tastes almost as good as my yiayia’s.” 29-09 23rd which includes a Chiotiko and a der. The seafood, meat and traditional Greek sada (braised rooster over ), a specialty of Avenue, Astoria N.Y. 11105 (718) 932-8596 En - frittata, is popular with Yelp users. cooking options are endless. 31-14 Broadway, As - owner/chef Kostas Avlonitis’ native Corfu. 45-07 trées: $10-$28 314 Seventh Ave. (8th Street), Brooklyn, N.Y. toria, N.Y. 11105 (718) 204-8968 bahariestiato - Ditmars Boulvard, Astoria, NY 11105 (718) 626- 11215 (347) 725-4162 okeanosnyc.com Entrées: rio.com Entrées: $9-$29 3200 restaurantsgreek.com Entrées: $15-$32 TELLY’S TAVERNA $16-$29 For the real thing, many Greeks beehive to KOPIASTE OVELIA this Astoria tradition co-owned by charismatic Restaurateur George Georgiou is back in the You’ll find the ambiance of a charming side - Nana Loiselle and her daughter Diana. People NEW YORK (LONG ISLAND) same location where his former Taverna Vraka walk café at this neighborhood spot dubbed flock to the fresh fish, authentic appetizers and – (1980-88) stood with this elegant eatery that puts “Greek chic” by Zagat, which gives it a 23 out of in the summer – garden. The avgolemono soup authentic Cypriot cuisine at center stage. With 30 mark for its cuisine. Opened by the Giannakas was featured on Fox 5, the local Fox network tele - AEGEAN CAFÉ fellow Cypriot and chef partner Skevi Rousopou - family (father Ioannis once had a food truck in vision affiliate. Zagat calls it “simple perfection.” “Authentic Greek cuisine in a warm traditional los, he opened Kopiaste in December 2012 to rave Astoria Park) in 2006, Ovelia features creative 28-13 23rd Avenue, Astoria, N.Y. 11105 (718) atmosphere” is how the Sayville News describes reviews from the Village Voice, Yelp, and tripad - takes on traditional favorites, including the lamb 728-9056 www.tellystaverna.com Entrées: $12- this intimate café in the heart of Sayville village, visor. Sheftalia (ground pork rolls with onion and fig (lamb flavored with fig , $30 a picturesque town that skims the southern coast ), koupepia (pork and -filled dol - yellow squash and cherry tomatoes), Greek coffee of Long Island. The menu lists familiar entrées mades), afelia (pork and potatoes marinated in steak (skirt steak prepared with a Greek coffee ZENON TAVERNA (souvlakia, spanakopita, mousaka, pastitsio, red wine and dry ), and lountza rub), and the saganaki burger (fried kefalo - From the Tahini Dip to the homemade lounza ) alongside a multitude of pasta dishes, A A E I T N L S E R A E V I V P O A O T K

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AEGEAN CAFÉ ETHOS GREAT NECK MYKONOS RESTAURANT ETHOS GALLERY 51ST S most named for Greek islands that have had Ital - D had sushi.” 1043 Northern Boulevard Roslyn, N.Y. N ian influence: Cephalonia, Corfu, Zakinthos, A 11576 (516) 869-8989 limaniny.com Entrées: ETHOS GALLERY 51ST L S I

Mykonos, Santorini, Kalamata (with Kalamata $27.50-$80 (for two) Zagat praises the “always fresh catch,” and K ), and the Italian-sounding Pasta ala Mani - E “abundant portions” served “with finesse by a E R

tari – garnished with, of , mushrooms G MYKONOS RESTAURANT friendly crew” at this lively spot in midtown Man - (“manitaria”). 35 Main Street, Sayville, N.Y. This family-friendly, casual restaurant in the hattan. Its dramatic décor is identical to sister 11782 (631) 589-6991 sayvilleaegeancafe.com center of Great Neck offers reasonably priced restaurant, Kyma in Roslyn, N.Y. – floor-to-ceiling Entrées: $14-$22 Greek fare. In addition to an assortment of salads, white and ivory, with pops of green from the there are numerous hot vegetarian dishes. Re - strategically placed potted plants and trees. Sig - ETHOS GREAT NECK viewers love the lemon potatoes, the salads, and nature cocktails include the Mediterranean Mar - “Perfectly grilled, always fresh fish,” praises the charcoal grilled salmon. 37 Great Neck Road, tini made with fig , fig puree, honey syrup one OpenTable user. The menu boasts an abun - Great Neck, N.Y. 11021 (516) 773-8010 Entrées: and lemon juice, garnished with fresh figs. dance of hot and cold appetizers and leans heavily $12-$29 905 First Avenue, New York, N.Y. (212) 888- toward seafood, including Sea Food : “The 4060 ethosrestaurants.com Entrées: $23-$35 Greek – the entire sea on your plate.” Sim - MYKONOS GREEK RESTAURANT ple wall art and wine bottles adorn the walls, and “Zeus-sized” salads, gyro platters, and feta GREEK KITCHEN every table has a bottle of Greek oil. (“the best you can get in Suffolk County”) keeps A casual bistro feel predominates at this old- 25 Middle Neck Road, Great Neck, N.Y. 11021 customers coming back to this family-owned and style Manhattan West Side neighborhood restau -

(516) 305-4958 Entrées: $19-$35 rant opened in 1999. Taste the large Grilled T

from the New York Times, Examiner.com, and N Prawns or the Fried Codfish with . In A

GREEK ISLANDS OpenTable.com users. The Kyma chips, paper- R 2012, the restaurant spun off the Clinton Bakery U

Find refuge in the Greek isles at this spot with thin slices of and eggplant pan-fried and A Café next door for , , and catering. T S

many classic taverna offerings – including lots of served with tzatziki, are also a hit. The entire E 889 10th Avenue, New York, N.Y. 10019 (212) R

regionally inspired dishes and a huge section of restaurant, from the ceiling to the walls, tables K 581-4300 greekkitchennyc.com Entrées: $14-$28 E ladera (vegetarian dishes). The décor includes a and chairs, is bathed in white and ivory. There is E R G lovely wall painting of a village street. 253-17 also a spirited bar scene. 1446 Old Northern ITHAKA S

Northern Boulevard, Little Neck, N.Y. 11362 (718) Boulevard, Roslyn, N.Y. (516) 621-3700 kyma- O Originally opened in New York’s Greenwich N

279-5922 georgesgreekislands.com Entrées: $15- roslyn.com Entrées: $25-$55 O Village and now thriving on the Upper East Side, K

$35 Y Ithaka, whose name was inspired by the Constan - LIMANI M tine Cavafy poem, is devoted to classic cookery GREEK TOWN FAMILY RESTAURANT Oysters, clams, , octopus, calamari – with the influence of Mytiline and the exotic cui - This casual neighborhood family eatery opened and of course fish – await, and are prepared in sine of Asia Minor. New York Magazine praised in 1996 and features a spinach casserole (spinach, front of your eyes at this special occasions restau - its “unpretentious, honest cooking and rustic-nau - feta, and melted mozzarella), , and a rant. Pendelikon marble and large clay pots fit tical embellishments” as well as the flaky spanako - nice vegetarian selection. Favorites include the into the breezy Grecian decor. In the summer, pita, smoky grilled octopus, and a baklava, which gyro, chicken souvlaki, and saganaki (which here there is elegant outdoors dining. New York Times they call “close to the Platonic ideal.” 308 East is topped with tomatoes). 90 North Village Av - reviewer Joanne Starkey wrote of the new eatery 86th Street, New York, N.Y. 10028 (212) 628- I É N F N E A A H C

M C I E T L I C K

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enue, Rockville Centre, N.Y. 11570 (516) 678- Y operated spot, open since 1993. There is a decent L

4550 greetownrvc.net Entrées: $12-$24 S selection of mostly Greek wines, but also a Cypriot O R Chardonnay. Newsday praised the “deliciously A

GYRO PALACE CAFÉ M smoky calamari, airy taramosalata, house-made Y

“The gods on Mount Olympus never ate as K Greek sausage, perfectly cooked with good (sic) as area residents can at the Gyro Palace plump fresh mussels and exceptionally light Café,” hails their website, and reviewers seem to pastitsio. 45 Rte. 111, Smithtown, N.Y. 11787 agree. The all-beef gyro is universally praised. (631) 979-2000 eatmykonos.com Entrées: $13- There is even a “Greek pizza” with spinach and $24 feta cheese, and a “Greek hamburger” seasoned with onions and , similar to a Greek meat - SKORPIOS ball. 379 Rt. 25A, Rocky Point, N.Y. (631) 821- Family-owned and run for more than 30 years, 3322 gyropalace.com Entrées: $7-$50 (serves Skorpios is frequented by Greeks as well as locals four) – an indicator of its authenticity and quality. The gyro, a combination of lamb and beef, is actually S O

KYMA ROSLYN roasted on an authentic vertical rotating grill. Re - I P

Lemon trees planted in giant pots flank the viewers love the robustly sized favorites, including R O K

whitewashed arch over the front door at Kyma, the gyro platter, salads, and chicken, with endless S opened in April 2013 by four partners, two of raves about the tzatziki. There is also a Greek A

whom own Ethos Gallery 51st in Manhattan – in 2009: “Limani is not only the best Greek restau - pizza with spinach and feta cheese – sort of an R V and the restaurant has made a splash on Long Is - rant I have sampled on the Island; it is the best alternate take on spanakopita. 340 New York Av - A land. Fresh fish is flown in daily and priced indi - seafood restaurant, too.” One TNH staffer raved, enue, Huntington, N.Y. 11743 (631) 549-8887 vidually, not by the pound, and got high marks “I went to a bridal shower there, and they even Entrées: $15-$24

NEW YORK (MANHATTAN)

AVRA The villa motif is carried through each succes - sive space of this upscale Manhattan eatery. This villa is set near the sea, no doubt, as there’s a raw bar, fish (including imported Mediterranean favorites like Tsipoura and Barbounia) and lots of sea appetizers. The grilled prawns are a favorite of Yelp users, as is the octopus. 141 East 48th Street, New York, N.Y. 10017 (212) 759-8550 avrany.com Entrées: $25-$53

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Hours of operation: " There's Truly Something Special 7 Days A Week, 6am-12 midnight To all Restaurants for Everyone! '' one FREE 10 inch The perfect spot for breakfast, lunch, 913 Allwood Rd., Clifton, NJ 07012 layer-cake with this ad dinner or a late night dinner. 973.365.2575 Offerring quality food and services RETAIL: (718) 238-0014 to our unique clients. Our fabulous deserts WHOLESALE: (718) 238-1779 are baked fresh in our bake shop. www.theallwooddiner.com Thank you for your continued patronage THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast 7

KELLARI TAVERNA MOLYVOS THALASSA RESTAURANT YEFSI

9100 ithakarestaurant.com Entrées: $19-$35 with a difference, just a block away from Carnegie cuses on fish imported from the Mediterranean and Veal Cephalonia (simmered in an earthen - Hall. New (as of January) collaborating chef Di - to Hawaii. There’s also a 40-foot long wine room ware pot with spinach, leeks, , lemon, arti - KELLARI TAVERNA ane Kochilas emphasizes regional Greek cuisine leading to a wine and cheese cave whose selec - chokes, and rice). There is also marinated char- Executive Chef Gregory Zapantis specializes (see her chef profile in this issue). Molyvos boasts tions have been awarded by Wine Spectator, Wine grilled quail. “So good, in fact, you'll want to in classic Greek mezedes and whole fish at this a menu that includes new twists on classic Greek Enthusiast and Sante. Forbes is among those who shout "opa!"” wrote the Daily Gazette. Athos spot, which prides itself in the motto “Enter as favorites. The exclusively list includes have given the restaurant, with Ralpheal Abra - earned OpenTable’s 2013 Diners’ Choice award, Strangers, Leave as Friends.” Contributing to this wines that cannot be found anywhere else in the hante as the Executive Chef, top marks. There is and Tripadvisor gave it a Certificate of Excellence feeling is warm and attentive service, as well as a U.S., not even a liquor store, says sommelier Ka - live music every Wednesday and Sunday. 179 in 2012 and 2013. 1814 Western Avenue Albany, more-than-extensive wine list. Fresh fish reigns mal Kouiri. Reviewers hail the “perfectly exe - Franklin Street, New York, N.Y. 10013 (212) 941- N.Y. 12203 (518) 608.6400 athosrestaurant.com in the elegant, uncluttered surroundings marked cuted” grilled octopus and the “outstanding” lamb 7661. thalassanyc.com Entrées: $24-$58 Entrées: $18-$32 by wood-beamed cathedral ceilings. Kellari is pop - chops. 871 Seventh Avenue, New York, N.Y. ular for lunch, business and intimate dinner 10019 (212) 582-7500 molyvos.com Entrées: YEFSI ELIA TAVERNA events. There is also a Kellari Taverna in D.C. $22-$38 Opened in 2012 by Cypriot native, New York The New York Times raved of this four-year- that is making its mark. 19 West 44th Street New restaurant veteran and chef/owner Christos Chris - old arrival: “There is a graciousness to Elia Tav - York, N.Y. 10036-5900 (212) 221-0144 kellari.us NERAI tou, Yefsi’s unassuming outdoor awning and rustic erna that is missing all too often in restaurants Entrées: $26-$43; 1700 K Street NW, Washington, This barely year-old spot in the heart of Man - decor does not prepare you for the intoxicating today.” The options range from gyro sandwiches D.C. 20006 (202) 535-5274 kellaridc.com En - hattan sports two floors, decorated yacht-style Cypriot aromas that permeate his cooking. Fa - to Moussaka-type fare and grilled meat or fish. trées: $26-$46 with white seatback cushions roped to the vorites include the arni youvetsi with a cinnamon There are also Greek style round fries and benches along the wall, and soft folds of white tomato sauce, and the popular mezedes, of which Haloumi Cheese, which gives away the Chef/Co- MILOS ESTIATORIO fabric cascading from ceiling to floor. Co-executive there are 30 different kinds. Zagat calls it “a win - owner Michalakis Sarris’ Cypriot origins. 502 New Choose your fish – ala Greece, Spain, or Por - chefs Chris Christou and Ioannis Markadakis ex - ner,” while the New York Daily News praised the Rochelle Road, Bronxville, N.Y. 10708 (914) 663- tugal – from the display at this acclaimed restau - ecute what the Huffington Post called a “thor - housemade loukaniko (sausage) and mousaka 4976. http://eliataverna.com Entrées: $13-$27 rant bathed in soothing whites. Milos prides itself oughly modern conception of Greek food, of a (“like a lamb tiramisu”). 1481 York Avenue, New on honing in on only the finest (often organic kind it would be difficult to find even in the more York, N.Y. 10075 (212) 535-0293 and/or heirloom) ingredients for two decades. modern restaurants in Athens.” Examples of their yefsiestiatorio.com Entrées: $19-$34 PENNSYLVANIA Favorites include the Lavraki, Petropsara Soup modern twist: ouzo-scented yogurt, sweet parsnip for two and Mediterranean sardines. There are chips, grilled octopus with and red pep - Milos restaurants in Montreal, Miami, Las Vegas, per, and masticha-flavored gelato. NEW YORK (STATE) ESTIA RESTAURANT and Athens too.125 W. 55th Street, New York, 55 East 54th Street, New York, N.Y. 10022 Opened by Pete Pashalis, Nick Pashalis and N.Y. 10019 (212) 245-7400 milos.ca/en/newyork (212) 759-5554 nerainyc.com Entrées: $26-$60 John Lois, Estia offers the true taste of Greece Entrées: $49-$95 ATHOS RESTAURANT through whole grilled fish, some of it flown in THALASSA RESTAURANT The best and only Greek eats in the New York from Greece, Morocco, Tunisia, and Portugal. MOLYVOS Sail into the Mediterranean, within a historic capital. Chef Harry, of Manhattan restaurant Philly.com calls it “exquisite.” The ambiance is This Livanos Restaurant Group restaurant Manhattan building. One of the signature starters Ithaka fame, offers classic recipes like Shrimp that of a Greek island home, complete with stucco made a splash when it opened in 1997. Since is Maine Diver Scallops wrapped in kataifi filo. Grekolimano (shrimp cooked in an ouzo-infused walls, limestone floors, a blue ceiling and even a then it’s proven a favorite for elegant Greek dining There is meat, but, true to its name, Thalassa fo - tomato sauce simmered in an earthenware pot) live olive tree. Interesting dishes include the I T O A I N R R A E O R N T U A I A T T S S E E

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ESTIA RESTAURANT KANELLA NOSTOS MOURAYO

Kavouri Kefteda, a jumbo lump crabcake, served (stuffed with haloumi), Pouleriko (brick-cooked everything is served meze style. Owners Ted over and marinated giant beans. Zagat baby chicken) and a pork kebab flavored with Xenohristos, Ike Grigoropoulos, and chef Dimitri gives it a 25 out of 30 mark for food, and raves . Moshovitis were named Washingtonian Maga - about “the fantastic selection of fresh, exotic fish The Philadelphia Inquirer said of the chef: “He zine’s Restaurateurs of the year in 2010. The mag - and amazing lamb.” 1405-07 Locust Street, is especially masterful at redeeming the nearly azine named it one of its 100 Very Best Restau - Philadelphia, Pa. 19102 (215) 735-7700 www.es - lost art of the braise and the .” Esquire mag - rants for 2010, 2012, and 2013. There are three tiarestaurant.com Entrées: $23-$45 azine chose it as one of the 59 Best Breakfast locations: Capitol Hill, Rockville, Md., and Ar - Places in America in 2009. 1001 Spruce Street, lington, Va. The partners have rolled out a line of KANELLA Philadelphia, Pa. 19107 (215) 922-1773 food products, sold at various grocery stores in -born Chef/Co-owner Konstantinos www.kanellarestaurant.com Entrées: $21-$32 the Mid-Atlantic and Northeast. A fast-food ver - Pitsillides opened this Cypriot Restaurant in 2008. sion of the restaurant called Cava Grill opened Rustic, authentic food – with plenty of organic YIANNI’S TAVERNA its first location in Bethesda, Md. in 2011. Four meat – includes the likes of Cyprus Tortelloni Originally opened as Gus’ Crossroads in 1975 more locations in the Washington area have by Gus and Eleni Zanakis, the couple’s son and opened, with more on the way. Zagat ranked it daughter took over and remodeled Yianni’s four among its “8 Must-Try Cheap Eats in DC.” 527 years ago, renaming it for the new owner: Yianni, 8th Street S.E. Washington, D.C. 20003 (202) Gus’ son. Customers love the remodel, which sep - 543-9090 cavamezze.com Entrées: $6-$25 arates the bar/lounge area from the dining room. (mezedes) The saganaki is popular, as is the fresh fish from CAVA MEZZE the Philadelphia Fish Market and the baklava ice site. As owners Peter Pagonis and his wife explain, MOURAYO cream Tripadvisor.com awarded it the 2014 Cer - the name of the restaurant means: “The desire to Greek yacht-meets bistro in this critically ac - tificate of Excellence. 3760 Old Philadelphia Pike, go back to the place where you were raised.” claimed restaurant that opened in 2004.The Bethlehem, Pa. 18015 (610) 867-8821 yiannistav - Even non-lamb lovers on Yelp were impressed moussaka includes duck stock reduction and the erna.com Entrées: $15-$30 with the lamb youvetsi (braised lamb). 8100 lamb chops are wrapped in country phyllo dough. Boone Boulevard, Vienna, Va. 22182 (703) 760- The Washington Post included Mourayo in its 0690 nostosrestaurant.com Entrées: $19-$33 Spring 2012 Dining Guide, and said, “This restau - VIRGINIA rant ventures from typical Greek dishes to give a taste of more authentic regional fare.” Yelp users NOSTOS WASHINGTON, D.C. praise the attentive service and the almost exclu - A spinoff of the popular Mykonos Grill in sively Greek wine list, several available by the Rockville, Md., Nostos Restaurant opened in 2011 glass. 1732 Connecticut Ave N.W., Washington, with the goal of "presenting a fresh, modern take CAVA MEZZE D.C. 20009 (202)-667-2100 YIANNI’S TAVERNA on Greek culinary culture," according to its web - From the Saganaki to the Kokkinisto beef, http://mourayous.com Entrées: $19-$30 Classic Italian Chef Finds Peace In His Greek Heritage

By Sophia S. Huling father, a butcher and deli - the chefs at the private club, and were Greek ruins everywhere. So catessen owner, and his Greek- became the go-to cook for family really, what are we talking For as long as he can remem - American uncle, who owned a and church gatherings. He was about? We’re talking about, I ber, Michael DeGeorgio has lived luncheonette in Manhattan. baptized and continues to attend would say, the same culture. You and breathed food. “As a kid I learned the lun - Three Hierarchs Greek Orthodox have different flavors because of From his childhood watching cheonette business,” he said. “If Church in Brooklyn, whose pas - the terrains, where Greece is and his Greek immigrant maternal they left me home, I’d be crying tor, the Very Rev. Fr. Eugene Pap - where Italy is – two totally dif - grandmother prepare meals all day. It was crazy. My mother pas, is a family friend. ferent agriculture climates. But every day with ingredients would be tortured all day if they “Any family parties we used once you go to the ocean, you’re shipped directly from Greece, the didn’t take me to work with to do, we did them at the Greek dealing with a lot of the same Brooklyn native wanted to be them.” church, and I used to cook for .” wherever the cooking was going While DeGeorgio was weigh - all the parties,” he said. “I would The turning point in DeGeor - on. ing his options after graduating cook Greek food, Italian food; I gio’s life came at the premature “My grandmother who lived high school, his father, who con - did a lot of the festivals over at death of his mother, Mary, at the with us, my mom’s mom, cooked sidered his son “a natural chef,” the church, and worked together age of 54, when he was only 27. Greek food every single day. She discovered the Culinary Institute with friends and family.” “She got to see me successful used to make fillo dough by of America (C.I.A.). Soon afterward, he was hired at Il Cortile, but from when I was hand!” he marveled. “Anytime “As soon as I stepped foot in as a chef at Il Cortile Ristorante just 25 she got sick, and two we’d go to my aunts’ or uncles’ the front door, I knew that was on Mulberry Street in Manhat - years later she died. It was very houses, there was always some - for me. This is where I want to tan’s historic Little Italy, and was tough,” he said. thing cooking. I’d be so inter - be. It was everything to me; it promoted to executive chef at That event prompted his ested in looking at the handwrit - was my whole life,” he said. only 23 years old. He spent cousins to urge him to visit his ten recipes, the way they did He graduated in 1987 from nearly 20 years at Il Cortile, and DeGeorgio, second from left, with a Vetro staff member and mother’s and godmother’s ances - things. And then when I went to C.I.A.’s two-year program first in has also consulted for companies students from his cooking class, December 2010 tral island of – a place his the Culinary Institute, I saw how his class. One of his Greek un - such as Unilever Foods, Colavita mother, who was American- all the influences tied together.” cles, a banquet manager at the Company, Carmelina Tomatoes, born, never saw. The executive chef/partner at Yale University Club of New and Darden Restaurant Group. A few years ago, DeGeorgio my head telling me, “That’s not “I knew that she would have Vetro Restaurant & Lounge in York, got him an apprenticeship He has won awards from the began consulting for Russo’s on good enough. Do it better. You wanted to see Greece, and her Howard Beach, N.Y. (a brand of there. He soon became one of James Beard Foundation. the Bay, eventually partnering can make it better.” And that’s life was cut short, and here I was Russo’s on the Bay, an event with owner Frank Russo Jr. to what keeps it creative and keeps – I felt like I was seeing it planning and catering hall in open Vetro in 2010. The restau - the energy going and loving through her eyes,” he said. “It Howard Beach, where he is also rant won OpenTable’s Diners’ what I do.” took a toll on me because of how executive chef) makes his pro - Choice award in 2013. Having a background in both Greek my mother really was. She fession specializing in classic Ital - As his culinary skills and ex - Greek and , DeGe - was born in America, but there ian cuisine – his father’s family perience grew, he continued to orgio said, makes it easy for him was nobody more proud to be comes from Bari, Italy. But he find inspiration from his earliest to adapt from one cuisine to the Greek, nobody more proud to loves creating the classic dishes mentors: his family. He remem - other. live the way the culture taught of his mother’s ancestors, the bered his grandmother, with “If you go to any of those her.” Loukas family from the south - whom he spoke Greek until her high-end Greek (restaurants) When his cousins introduced eastern Aegean island of Kos. death when he was 8 years old, and you see a mussels dish, and him to relatives he met for the “I love doing different appe - receiving monthly deliveries di - it’s sautéed with a bit of ouzo first time, he was startled to find tizers: the tyropita, the spinach rectly from Greece: cans of and a little feta cheese and a photos of himself as a small child pies, avgolemono soup, pastitsio, honey, boxes of masticha, grains pinch of saffron, what makes it in their homes. mousaka, any kind of seafood, and other products not available so different from an Italian mus - “They were relatives my grilled fish,” he said. “I can make in the U.S. at the time. sels dish?” he said. “Stuffed cala - grandmother would send pic - loukoumades, kourabiedes – “The Greeks and the Italians mari: the Greeks do a calamari tures of me to, and they’d keep things that you would see at always wanted to do it the best,” stuffed with feta cheese and them forever,” he said. “That’s most families’ homes. The stuffed he said. ”Even if they didn’t have grilled. The Italians do them dif - really special to me to be with ; all the stuff you much money they would still ferently, but once you go to the these people that I never would would see every day.” want to buy the best ingredients, different islands and regions of have met, and they’re my family, DeGeorgio describes himself the freshest ingredients, and start Italy, you’ll find many similar and they have baby pictures of as “born into the food business.” One of Chef Michael DeGeorgio’s signature dishes: Veal Chop it from scratch and make it the things. When I went to Sicily me. It’s just surreal.” From the age of 5 he longed to con Granchi – grilled rib veal chop stuffed with lump crabmeat best that they could. To this day, and we drove through to get to The long-awaited odyssey to work with his Italian-American and a tarragon demi-glace sauce. there’s always that voice inside a town called Corleone, there Kos brought him “a feeling of

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Michael DeGeorgio, Execu - my family, everyone was so con - tive Chef/Partner at Vetro nected to this Greek culture that Restaurant & Lounge in was everything. So it was not just Howard Beach, Queens, N.Y. about the food – it was about the culture.” DeGeorgio, who will turn 50 Greek relatives sing and play mu - this year, said his next goal is to sical instruments. With his fam - shift the emphasis of his work ily, he would often go to listen more toward consulting and to his godmother’s son play the teaching and away from the typ - bouzouki in a Greek, Armenian ical 70-hour weeks he has or Middle Eastern café. To this worked most of his career. day, its sound will stop him in Still, he said, when he looks his tracks, he said. at his life, “I probably wouldn’t “To listen to the music, and change it for the world” despite see them singing and what it the grueling conditions he has meant to them – I didn’t under - faced at times. stand every word, but I would “The heart and soul of my en - get to understand what the song tire life has been the food busi - was about. And I was mesmer - ness, and I really have to be ized by it, and all the different thankful for all the wonderful food coming out and people eat - people I’ve met in my career,” he ing and drinking wine and being said. “I thank God every day that happy,” he said. “To this day, if I I have a career I love with all my www.kastaniaoliveoil.com hear it, I’ll cry a little bit. Because heart.” [email protected]

peace,” he said. little taverna places that are just “Just a sense of calm that was outdoors, everybody out there just so different from anywhere until 1 or 2 in the morning, I’ve ever been in the world,” he singing and laughing…the sim - said. “A lot of it has to do with ple things.” the family and the culture and Food and music strike a deep what I found there – the simplic - chord for DeGeorgio, especially ity of it. The little night life, the for his Greek side. Many of his

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some plates. We’re talking about 20-30 years ago now. We thought it was time to not have entertainment, but to see if we can’t find a way to inspire peo - ple to come in to the restau - rants. We just cared a lot. We tasted all the food ourselves. We had friends who were not ethnic taste the food. We didn’t have pride of ownership, like “it’s my mother’s recipe, whether you like it or not.” We tweaked everything. Both Kenny and I cook – he’s a much better cook than I am. I do all my mother’s recipes, the stifado and the ka - pama and all that stuff. So es - sentially because we both en - joyed food and wine, and we didn’t care about making money, the financial pro-forma had us breaking even for five years. Nobody would do any - thing like that. We found out that the service portion became more important even than the food. People just loved being treated with respect and with joy. We had a Greek manager who ultimately left us and formed restaurants in New George Marcus, restaurateur and real estate tycoon York, Stavros Aktipis. He took our concept to New York. We had another manager who took GM: I like to cook unusual at Evvia, and he was very im - our concept to Chicago. But our stuff, Greek things that people pressed. They thought it would concept is: let’s provide really don’t normally cook. My mother good to have something from tasty Greek-ingredient food. Our has a dish that is regional from the West Coast, because usually lamb chops are better than av - Evia: calamari baked in the oven Chicago and New York are the erage because we have better with spinach. I would say my ones that provide the food. cuts of meat, we marinate them wife makes a kapama that no - We’re just very fortunate. We longer. We’re just not trying to body in the world can beat. I do enjoyed it very much. Our chefs make a lot of money; we’re just the plaki, fish with tomatoes were there about four days be - trying to provide really good and onions. fore the event, and they brought value to the customer and a re - TNH: What do you like to eat their families. We served appe - ally great experience. And guess when you go to Kokkari? tizers that we have at the restau - The massive fireplace near the Kokkari entrance, what happened? People love it. GM: Anything new. Neither rant. which showcases grilling meats on a rotisserie TNH: Greek restaurants of our chefs is Greek, but they’re TNH: What do you see on seem to be coming up much always inspired to try different the horizon for the restaurant? more frequently on the best things. So they’ll take the ingre - GM: Just enjoy them. We’ve lists. dients – they’ll make a mush - been asked – and this is no ex - By Sophia S. Huling sweet and crème fraiche ice GM: And I think Kenny and I room dish that has the Greek aggeration – at least 100 times cream, and they have an ouzo are responsible for that. Because flavors, or they’ll do to expand to different markets, A casual glance at some of sorbet. There are a dizzying we gave it dignity, we cleaned with Greek flavors. I don’t go to to go to Los Angeles, to go to the country’s best restaurants number of wines from around it up. We spared no expense in have lamb chops at all anymore. Las Vegas, to go everywhere. lists or a flip through a Zagat the world, with more than 20 the improvements, the furni - We offer fish three ways: grilled, This is something we love and guide brings up a reasonable available by the glass. ture, the fixtures, because we baked, ands pan-fried. I’m a we enjoy, and we eat there. And number of Greek restaurants. It This year, Kokkari and Evvia wanted to show off our culture. baked fish kind of guy. that’s what we wanted. It wasn’t is a relatively recent phenome - scored big when they were cho - If Aristotle Onassis had a tav - TNH: Tell us about how the a business venture we were go - non, about five to ten years. And sen to cater the White House re - erna that he hung out in, this White House event came about. ing to make money at. We just George Marcus, owner of one of ception marking Greek Indepen - would be it. GM: Fr. Alex and I have been wanted to enjoy our cultural the country’s most successful dence Day. The event has been TNH: What do you like to friends for a long time. He food and make our community real estate firms and the 11th organized every year since 1981 cook? comes up periodically, he’s eaten proud. wealthiest Greek-American, and by Rev. Alexander Karloutsos, his restaurant partner, dentist who represents the Greek Or - Ken Frangadakis, are responsi - thodox Archdiocese of America, ble for that. and long-time Washington The two joined forces to Greek lobbyist Andy Manatos. open the 100-seat Evvia Estia - As a result, many more West torio in Palo Alto, Ca. in 1995 Coast Greek-Americans than and the 175-seat Kokkari Estia - torio in San Francisco in 1999. They named the restaurants af - ter Marcus’ family’s home is - land, Evia, and Frangadakis’ wife’s birthplace, Kokkari fishing village on Samos. Both restau - rants consistently boast a listing on Zagat’s 10 best restaurants in San Francisco. Kokkari is rated the number one restaurant in the city on Trip Advisor, and is listed on USA Today’s 10Best as one of the city’s 10 most romantic restaurants. With a décor that evokes the ambience of a stately villa,

usual made the 6,000-mile round trip trek to attend the cel - ebration. We chatted with Marcus, an amateur chef, about how the el - egant eatery came to be, Greek cuisine and the restaurant busi - ness, and what he likes to eat. TNH: How did Kokkari come about? GEORGE MARCUS: Kenny (Frangadakis) and I come from normal Greek families, and we realized our mothers were ac - tually very, very good cooks. But there was no real systematic way of translating home Greek cooking to restaurants, because – it’s going to be a surprise to you, but – there are no Greek cooking schools, in Europe or in the United States, where you can learn traditional Greek cooking. So the chefs cooking Greek in a variety of restaurants have all been giving a lot of food, not really concerned about the quality. Both of us have done well in our lives, and we were not looking to make money. We basically said, “Hey, we’re really going to stay, not true to the concept of village Greek food, but true to the flavors of Greece.” We didn’t think it was going to be necessarily success - ful. Because when you take sur - veys of Americans without any Kokkari features a grand stone ethnic affiliation at all, people fireplace where the day’s meats wouldn’t eat Greek food if you are grilled on rotisserie, rustic paid them. wooden furniture, discreet light - TNH: Why do you think that ing, and an open kitchen facing is? the dining room. The menu of - GM: Well, take a guess. The fers unique takes on Greek cui - average Greek restaurant is a sine: oven-baked feta with bouzouki place, it is a dancing tomato, , and place, it’s a lot of mezedes, and brandy; stuffed with really pretty bad food – in Cali - and feta with mushrooms and fornia, anyway. All the restau - pine nuts; and an -and- rants in the Bay Area that were eggplant souvlaki served with Greek-inspired were nice restau - onions, peppers, and Greek yo - rants, but you would go there gurt. Their is ac - to dance Greek dancing, or see companied by a lemon spoon some belly dancing, or break 12 50 Best Greek Restaurants On The East Coast THE NATIONAL HERALD, JUNE 7, 2014

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