Session 3: Hardanger: Kloster blocks and Eyelets

Hardanger is a style originating from the Hardanger region of Norway, based on simple geometric stitches and cut-out areas filled with stitching. It was originally mainly used to decorate clothes but is now popular for household items as well. It can be stitched in self colours or in coloured threads. Hardanger looks scary because of the cut-outs, but it is not difficult to do, and is very versatile and surprisingly robust! Come and explore it with me.

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR THIS SESSION:

• or small frame • Embroidery • Needles: Tapestry needle (size 22) • DMC Coton Perle thread No #5, 336 and no #8, 121

READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS THROUGH BEFORE YOU START YOUR EMBROIDERY.

FRAMING UP YOUR FABRIC:

Fold the fabric in half both ways to find the centre of your piece. Mark it with a pin or by tacking along the weave of the fabric both horizontally and vertically.

Place your fabric in the hoop and make sure it is taut. If you prefer, use a small roller frame or similar. Instructions for framing up your fabric are in a separate worksheet if you need them.

NOTE: the charts both show ¼ of the design, so you can see the details clearly. The lines of eyelets (stars) both vertically and horizontally mark the centre of the design. Repeat the design in the other three quadrants to get the complete design (see the picture of the finished design on page 1).

WORKING THE EMBROIDERY:

1. Use a single strand of the #5 Coton Perle thread in your tapestry needle. Count 14 threads up from the centre and start there. Use a waste knot to start the stitching: make a knot in the end of your thread and come down into the fabric about 5-7 cm (2-3 ins) from your starting point. Once you have finished stitching with that thread, cut the knot off and weave the thread through the back of the stitching.

2. Make a block of satin stitches five stitches long, and over four threads. This is called a Kloster Block and is the main basic unit of hardanger embroidery. See diagram below. Kloster blocks should always be stitched at right angles as shown, and directly opposite another Kloster block.

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

3. Continue stitching Kloster blocks as shown on the chart until you have completed the central diamond shape. It’s always a great relief when the blocks match up at the end: if they don’t, check round your shape to find where you have gone wrong!

Stitching the Kloster blocks for the centre diamond shape

Starting and finishing threads: One of the advantages of Hardanger is that once you have started on a motif, you can easily stop and start threads by weaving them behind the Kloster block stitching on the back.

4. When you have done the central diamond, work the ovals stretching towards the corners in the same way. Where there is a gap between Kloster blocks, run the thread across in a diagonal behind the fabric. Count your threads carefully to make sure you are following the chart. It is a good idea with Hardanger to check often that your stitching is accurate and your Kloster blocks are opposite each other when they should be!

EYELETS:

1. Eyelets are stitched by bringing the thread up on the edge of the eyelet, usually at a corner. Take the needle down at the centre of the eyelet and pull the thread fairly tight. Then come up at the position of the next stitch round and repeat until you have stitched the whole shape. There is supposed to be a hole at the centre of the eyelet, so pull the thread tightly!

2. Using the #8 Perle thread (single strand again), work rows of three small eyelets as shown on the chart. Don’t worry about the large eyelets at this stage, you will work those as part of the border next session.

3. LEAF SHAPES: using the #5 Perle, work the leaf shapes on either side of the rows of eyelets. They are just worked as in the same way as the Kloster Blocks, except the stitch length varies.

That is Session 3 finished. Before you move on to Session 4, make sure all your Kloster blocks match the chart and are opposite each other!

Kloster Blocks and Eyelets:

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live

Please note the charts show just over ¼ of the design: the lines of eyelets (stars) mark the centres both horizontally and vertically.

Courtesy of Alison Larkin for Immediate Live