THE NEW The cultural heritage of the Emerald Isle stretches back millennia, but what about modern ? We explore the source and raise a glass to Irish culture, whether it’s tasting its culinary revolution, exploring the thriving arts movement, tapping our feet to the best new music or diving into the surf scene for a weekend away. The island of Ireland — North and Republic — is alive with stories and experiences

IRELAND WORDS PÓL Ó CONGHAILE IMAGE: DAVID SCIORA

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CULINARY REVOLUTION

LIMERICK GO TO MARKET ’s storied food scene is informed by its setting, sandwiched between the and pastureland — and now its historic market is the focus of a new food tour

At Limerick’s Milk Market, I’ve eaten a sausage are changing. There are festivals like roll, and muesli sourdough bread slathered in Pigtown Culture & Food Series, an autumn homemade marmalade, followed by paprika- programme of food-related events. There are battered monkfish fritters, and then somehow also casual stops, such as La Cucina Centro made room for some ‘spiralaytos’ — crisps (Italian) and Canteen (Asian) serving up whizzed from potatoes with a hand drill zingy eats, while a tasting platter I order at device. I’m glad I skipped breakfast. No. 1 , a chic Georgian townhouse “Growing up, this was somewhere we hotel, is a hymn to local ingredients like always came on a Saturday morning,” says Ispíní charcuterie and Castleconnell honey. my guide, Siobhán O’Neill. “For the bit of By King John’s Castle, a bold new mural of shopping, or the turkeys for Christmas; local hero Dolores O’Riordan, the late lead there was a little more blood and guts in the singer of , feels like a splash market back then. I remember I’d kick and of intent. scream about things I couldn’t have.” “There’s a subculture in Limerick,” says Well now, she can have her fill, and then Stephen Cunneen during a chatty tour of his some. Last summer, Siobhán and her partner, new Treaty City Brewery, on Nicholas Street, Tom Downes, set up food tour company just steps from the castle. “This city is a Teacht Linn Tours. Having travelled abroad, place for the smallholders, and we’re saying: tasting their way across the world, the couple this is who we are and this is what we do, and realised Limerick’s historic market was this is how we’re going to do it.” crying out for curated tours. ‘Teacht linn’ is Stephen tells me he’s the first new brewer Irish for ‘come with us’ — and that’s just what in Limerick in over a century. “Ten years ago, I do, following the pair through what’s both a King’s Island in central Limerick would’ve storied local crossroads and the cutting edge been considered one of toughest areas in of the city’s evolving food scene. southwest Ireland,” he says. “Now there’s a real The Milk Market runs Friday to Sunday, resurgence. I feel very excited about where this but Saturday morning is when it reaches city can be; we haven’t even started yet.” “boiling point”, as Siobhán puts it. Sausages Back at the Milk Market, Siobhán and Tom sizzle, fresh fish is slapped down on ice, are laying out tasters of farmhouse cheese. hundreds of baps are sold. Produce ranges Limerick may be late to Ireland’s food party, from farmhouse cheeses to stallholder Tom acknowledges, but, he says, it’s catching CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Milk Sefik Dikyar’s baklava, made to his Turkish up quickly. “If you put heart and soul into Market, one of Ireland’s oldest markets, granny’s recipe. your food the word will spread and people which now sells a wide variety of Beyond the market’s walls sprawls will come,” he says. “It will happen.” foodstuffs, much of which is produced locally; cheese for sale at the Milk Ireland’s third-largest city. It’s also the Market; Sarsfield Swivel Bridge, one of hardest to define; Limerick lacks the touristy MORE INFO: Teacht Linn Tours’ tours the three main bridges in Limerick that glow of places like and . It’s of Limerick’s Milk Market from €30 cross the Shannon River found it tough to shake gritty stereotypes (£25) per person. teachtlinntours.com PREVIOUS PAGE: Surfers walking along

and the aura of Angela’s Ashes, but things milkmarketlimerick.ie a cliff in stormy weather, Co Mayo IMAGES: SEAN CURTIN/TRUE MEDIA; GETTY

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RISING STARS LEFT FROM TOP: Majken picking sea beet on a coastal foraging trip; Jordan prepping for service at ; Jordan Since opening in May 2019 at Bailey and Majken Bech-Bailey, co- Cliff at Lyons hotel, County owners of Aimsir restaurant, foraging in Kildare, Aimsir restaurant a wood in Enniskerry has already picked up two RIGHT: Dish of oyster, cucumber and Michelin stars. Husband and arrow grass at , a Michelin-starred wife owners Jordan Bailey restaurant in Galway and Majken Bech-Bailey say their 15-course menu aims to ‘put Ireland on a plate’. Local produce ranges from lamb, seafood and cheeses to oysters, garlic and even rare Irish nashi pears

JORDAN: “We spent months on the road before we opened, travelling around Ireland looking for GALWAY suppliers, craftsmen, fishermen, foragers and whatever else. We TOP 4: FOOD started with what we thought was 14 HOURS IN... a very extensive list, but once we EXPERIENCES spoke to one farmer, they’d refer From gastro stops to great museums and theatre, the European Capital of Culture us to another down the road, and it BREAD SCHOOL, 2020 is ripe for exploring — and is arguably Ireland’s most delicious city just went crazy after that.” FIREHOUSE BAKERY, CO CORK 8AM SNACK AND STROLL 4PM GALWAY CITY MUSEUM MAJKEN: “We live in a world ‘Where bread is king’. That’s Grab a warm cinnamon bun and locally Exhibits at this small museum range from where it’s very easy to get the motto of this bread school roasted Red Eye Coffee from Marmalade a Galway hooker (a type of sailing boat) to everything year-round — you on Heir Island, in Roaringwater Bakery on Middle Street, before walking prehistoric finds and a collection of local can buy strawberries in Tesco Bay. Full-day classes include along the River Corrib and the Long Walk author Pádraic Ó Conaire’s books and in December. But Jordan, as a lunch with wine. €125 (£104) per promenade. Or do as Galwegians do and walk belongings. There’s a super view of the River chef, gets more creative when person. thefirehouse.ie the Salthill Prom, kicking your foot against Corrib and Atlantic Ocean from the top of he focuses on pure ingredients, the wall at the end, as tradition dictates. the building, too. galwaycitymuseum.ie instead of having the whole world ARMAGH FOOD & CIDER marmaladegalway.com at his fingertips. It’s also about FESTIVAL, CO ARMAGH 5PM PEOPLE-WATCH AT TIGH NEACHTAIN sustainability; there’s no reason to Armagh is ’s 10AM A DELA-CIOUS BRUNCH The corner perches at this cosy pub, bang in buy from across the world when apple country. This event is the Dela is a colourful cafe that sources much of the middle of the medieval quarter, are the you have everything here.” perfect excuse to explore, with its produce from an organic farm near the best places in the city to watch the world go showcases, markets, orchard city. From a Dela Fry, with sizzling Herterich’s by. Sample a local Soulwater IPA or oatmilk JORDAN: “One of the main reasons tours and special dinners. 24-27 sausages, and Kelly’s black pudding to stout while you’re at it. tighneachtain.com we came here was because it’s so September. visitarmagh.com buttermilk pancakes and veggie options, untouched — that excited me. But there’s plenty to choose from. dela.ie 7PM MICHELIN STAR MAGIC you saw with last year’s Michelin BLACKSTAIRS ECO TRAILS, Galway has two restaurants taking local Guide [18 restaurants on the island CO CARLOW 12PM TOUR THE LATIN QUARTER ingredients to Michelin-starred heights: have one or two stars] that Irish Mary White runs foraging tours The beauty of Galway is its ability to squeeze Aniar and . “We’ve the best ingredients; restaurants are kind of taking over. from her home outside Borris. big city buzz into small streets. Soak it up we just need to present them in the best We have amazing potential; it’s You’ll be making wild garlic by strolling from the Spanish Arch up Quay possible way, and that’s often the simplest just about getting the right people pesto and gorse ice cream in Street towards Shop Street, stopping at Hazel way,” says J P McMahon, chef-patron at to do the right thing and put it on a no time, and there are cosy Mountain Chocolate (bean-to-bar chocolate Aniar, where simple descriptions like world stage.” shepherd huts for overnight made in the Burren region of ) ‘brill, sea beet’ and ‘potato, lovage’ belie the stays. blackstairsecotrails.ie and Charlie Byrne’s Bookshop along the way. sophistication of the creations they refer to. MAJKEN: “Jordan and I looked If you’d prefer a guide, Brian Nolan’s Galway’s From €89 (£74) per person. aniarrestaurant.ie at over 100 different restaurant ENGLISH MARKET, CORK, Horrible History tour leaves from Eyre Square names and narrowed it down to CO CORK at 10.30 and noon. galwaywalks.com 11PM ROCK ON AT RÓISÍN DUBH’S three. The first thing about ‘aimsir’ A historic covered market in the A gig at this music/comedy venue on [pronounced am-sheer] was that city centre selling everything 2PM A KILLER LUNCH AT KAI Dominic Street could throw up Irish indie it looked and sounded beautiful. It from artisan chocolates to Peckish? Plot a course for the city’s Westend, acts like or La Galaxie, or means ‘weather’ and ‘time’ in Irish, drisheen (a type of blood where New Zealand-born chef Jess Murphy emerging local acts. Strange Brew is a classic which chimed with our idea of pudding). Don’t forget Kay is doing magical things with seasonal, Irish indie night on Thursdays. roisindubh.net using seasonal Irish produce. Harte’s excellent Farmgate ingredients at Kai (the Maori word for ‘food’). Café, too. englishmarket.ie Think Clare crab and Irish fine beans served MORE INFO: Food tours available from Seasonal tasting menu €135 (£112). with local leaves and a hen’s egg, or chickpea galwayfoodtours.com galway2020.ie

aimsir.ie IMAGES: SHANE O’NEILL/ASPECT PHOTOGRAPHY and goat’s curd filo pies.kairestaurant.ie galwaytourism.ie

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OUT ON ROCKIN’ PUBS Four of the best spots to THE TOWN catch some live music SPIRIT STORE, DUNDALK, CO LOUTH Snugs, sash windows, candles and craft beers. This quayside treasure features Sunday trad sessions downstairs, while upstairs is a lovingly curated venue that has drawn local legends like Just Mustard and Jinx Lennon, as well as touring acts like Snow Patrol and The Handsome Family. It’s a gorgeous space, and offers an authentic taste of the Irish music scene. spiritstore.ie

TEACH HIÚDAÍ BEAG, BUNBEG, CO DONEGAL Here’s where to combine good music and Gaeilge NORTHERN SOUL (the Irish language). Set in Ireland’s largest Gaeltacht area, the northwest pub Belfast-based DJ, broadcaster and radio producer David O’Reilly features the best of local discusses the city’s barnstorming live music scene, where to catch trad in Monday night the best gigs and which local bands to watch seisiúns, with up to a dozen musicians on the go at times. “The weird thing Limelight, meanwhile, is “the absolute More good news: it’s also about Belfast, and all heritage venue”. Touring acts have ranged a B&B. tradcentre.com/ of Northern Ireland, from Oasis to Jeff Buckley and The Strokes. hiudaubeag is that there are more The Belfast Empire Music Hall is another bands than there solid stop for concerts, according to Rigsy, DE BARRA’S FOLK CLUB, should be,” says while the ‘Sounds of NI’ night at The Pavilion CLONAKILTY, CO CORK David. Better known Bar is the place to catch up-and-coming acts. Serving up everything as Rigsy (“even Belfast’s rock and alternative scenes didn’t from trad and rock ’n’ roll my mother appear overnight, of course. This is a city to comedy and blues, this calls me that”), O’Reilly is an Irish radio whose alumni include Van Morrison, Ruby gregarious, genre-bending personality and presenter of BBC Radio Murray and David Holmes. Led Zeppelin pub is a West Cork legend. Ulster’s Across the Line, a show focusing on first played Stairway to Heaven live at the Don’t miss it. debarra.ie new Irish music. Ulster Hall in 1971 and, according to the “There’s absolutely a creative energy guide of a music bus tour I went on some ANNESLEY HOUSE, happening,” he enthuses. That’s down to years ago, “The music was so loud, they NORTH STRAND, several factors, from success stories such couldn’t hear a gun battle taking place Pubs like Pipers Corner, as Snow Patrol and around the corner.” The Cobblestone and to summer festivals like and AVA. I ask Rigsy what acts are breaking through Whelan are better known Belfast is an encouraging environment for right now. “We’re talking about bands based for live music, but ‘The young bands and musicians, he tells me in Belfast rather than from Belfast,” he House Presents’ sessions — and a great destination for travellers who says, going on to describe Ryan McMullan, at Annesley House are like their tunes. from Portaferry, as “absolutely massive”. one of the Northside’s So where can visitors go for a taste of the New Pagans, The Wood Burning Savages and sweetest surprises. A music scene? First up, says Rigsy, a little Careerist are rock bands to watch, he adds, salon-style setup features A traditional Irish music session at Belfast’s The John homework is required. while solo artists Jealous of the Birds, Roe an eclectic mix of live rock, Hewitt pub. “The HQ for new bands is probably Voodoo and Kitt Philippa are all thrilling listens. blues, acoustic and spoken ABOVE: Lydia Slagel and in the city centre,” he explains. “It’s the best “Look, I could go on all day.” facebook.com/ word. Laura Rogers, of singing and place to go — you’ll meet musicians, it’s thehousepresents songwriting duo The Secret run by musicians, and there are musicians MORE INFO: visitbelfast.com. Follow Rigsy on Sisters, perform at Belfast’s

behind the bar.” Twitter @Rigsy GETTYIMAGES: Empire Music Hall

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DUBLIN DRINK TO THAT After a lost century, Dublin’s Golden Triangle glows again, with new distilleries riding high on Ireland’s craft spirits boom

The smell makes me smile. It’s faint, but as Continuing the tour, Shane leads us to a ALL-IRELAND I walk down James Street, it gains strength. flavour workshop. The aim is to “demystify FINALS Ghosting over the black gates, swilling around cocktails a little,” he says, encouraging us to If Gaelic football old steeples and 21st-century cranes, its toasty, blend whiskey and ice with sweet, sour and porridge-like pungency nests in my nostrils. salty additions. “Bar menus can be confusing. and hurling are the Some Dubliners love it; some hate it. But we Some guys light their drinks on fire, others country’s religions, all know it instantly: it’s the smell of barley throw orange peel all over the place — and it Croke is the roasting in Guinness’ St James’s Gate Brewery. all makes you just want to run out the door.” “That’s how The Liberties neighbourhood What’s remarkable is the neighbourhood in cathedral — an smells a couple of hours a day, my friends,” which this story is unfolding. “The Liberties epic Dublin stadium says tour guide Shane McCann on a tour is a living, breathing village,” says Liz Gillis, where inter-county of the newly opened Roe & Co Distillery. a historian who takes me on a walking tour “Tourists wonder what’s going on.” of the area. Turning one corner, we see a sporting rivalries The Liberties is home to the Guinness chunk of medieval city wall. Turning another, peak on All- Storehouse, Ireland’s most-visited tourist we pass Variety Jones, a hip new restaurant Ireland final days. attraction, but the Black Stuff is far from with one Michelin star. Meath Street, with its the only drink on offer round these parts street vendors, feels like a small town where The summertime — Ireland’s craft spirits boom has seen everyone knows one another (“they know your season-enders see several new whiskey distilleries open up in secrets as well!” Liz laughs). But there are new 80,000 fans gather recent years. A couple of minutes’ walk from hotels and apartment complexes, too. Cranes Roe & Co is Pearse Lyons Distillery in the hover over a skyline once dominated by to watch world- former St James’ Church; copper stills sit in church steeples; debates about gentrification class sportsmanship its nave and a glass spire lights up seductively are in full swing. I ask Liz how she feels about in an event as at night. Nearby Newmarket is home to the the development in the area. “There’s nothing Teeling Whiskey Distillery, whose bottles can wrong with change,” she muses. “They just indescribably Irish be found in every pub in Dublin. don’t have to go knocking everything down. as they come. Dublin has form with whiskey. In the It’s about an interaction of both.” Don’t have a ticket? 1800s, a small area of the city known as the Back at Roe & Co Distillery, Shane invites Simply pitch up ‘Golden Triangle’ was a global powerhouse, us to open a wooden box. It’s filled with jars with brands like Jameson, Powers and George of clove drops and toffee, whose notes we in a nearby pub. Roe (for which Roe & Co is named) known all seek out in whiffs of whiskey. Momentarily, gaa.ie over the world. But a failure to modernise, the smell of barley slips my mind. the rise of Scottish whisky, war at home and Prohibition abroad combined to create what’s MORE INFO: Distillery tours in The Liberties often referred to as ‘a lost century’. can be taken at Roe & Co, Pearse Lyons FROM TOP: A tasting tour at Roe & Co Distillery, in the historic The Liberties However, tides are turning. In 1980, just two and Teeling. roeandcowhiskey.com neighbourhood; the Jameson Distillery working distilleries remained on the island; pearselyonsdistillery.com teelingdistillery.com

IMAGE: CHRISTOPHER HEANEY CHRISTOPHER IMAGE: Bow Street in Dublin’s Smithfield area today, there are 30. visitdublin.com

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T H E PAINT THE TOWN N E W For years, Derry’s art scene was defined by the Bogside murals, famous for their depictions of . But now a new, creative vibe is sweeping the city, A R T S ushering in a fresh array of murals, festivals and attractions I’m staring at a giant mural of a boy in a gas they run UV Arts, a street art social media mask holding a petrol bomb. He appears to enterprise in the city. The piece is testament stare back. Painted onto the gable end of a to the comedy that transformed SCENE house on Rossville Street, The Petrol Bomber perceptions of a place locals call Stroke City is one of a dozen murals in what’s known (as in, Derry-stroke-Londonderry). as ‘the People’s Gallery’ in Derry’s Bogside. “We’re not taking away from political art,” Around me, local residents go about their Karl tells me. “We want to remember the lives as tourists photograph their homes. past, but we also want to move on.” UV Arts I’m torn. The murals bring visitors, but does that by helping young people and they feel divisive in 21st-century Derry. The disenfranchised groups to cross political Bogside Artists — the men who created the divides by painting in places that feel mired gallery — don’t align themselves with any in political or social baggage. “It’s about political group, but their portrayals of events changing perceptions of space, educating like Bloody Sunday are jolting. Do they keep people about the use of space and showing community history alive, or old wounds open? how a bit of colour can go a long way to Should Derry have new poster boys? revitalising something,” he says. One thing’s for sure: while the murals “There’s a lot going on that tourists don’t remain, the city around them is changing. tend to see,” says Mary Cremin, director of In the past decade, it has had a stint as contemporary art space Void. She describes UK Capital of Culture; welcomed the new Derry as a place people are moving back to, Peace Bridge; and seen carnivals like Derry somewhere smaller and more affordable Halloween go from strength to strength. than Dublin or Belfast. “It’s kind of coming Walking around, you’ll see recent arrivals into its own now,” she says. “We’re very like Bishop’s Gate Hotel, the Walled City interested in making new histories around Brewery and a new mural — a joyful, cheeky contemporary Derry — what is it now, rather celebration of Derry Girls on Orchard Street. than constantly looking to the past.” ABOVE: Mural of the hit Channel 4 “That’s the most photographed thing in the series Derry Girls, painted on the wall of whole city!” laughs Karl Porter, who painted MORE INFO: uv-arts.co derryvoid.com

IMAGE: TOURISM IRELAND TOURISM IMAGE: Badger’s Bar, Orchard Street the mural with Donal O’Doherty. Together, visitderry.com

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DESIGN FOCUS Q&A: IRISH DESIGN SHOP, DUBLIN JAMES EARLEY Established by jewellers Clare Grennan and Laura Caffrey, this shop features The Dublin-based street art sensation handpicked Irish craft and design gems, speaks about the momentum and from cashmere shawls to gorgeous prints breadth of Ireland’s art scene, and (you can watch jewellery being made recommends the city’s best galleries upstairs, too). irishdesignshop.com IRISH STREET ART IS HAVING A MOMENT. WHY? NATIONAL DESIGN & CRAFT There are a few reasons. On a visual level, the GALLERY, KILKENNY large scale of the work helps, and the images Set in Kilkenny Castle’s former stable can be quickly disseminated through social yard, this is a small suite of galleries and media, most notably Instagram. But I think studios where you can watch crafts being the main driving force in Ireland has been made by the likes of JMK Goldsmiths or the use of street art to promote awareness of Ray Power’s Castle Arch Pottery. ndcg.ie political and social issues, such as marriage kilkennydesign.com equality and the abortion referendum. Dublin, Belfast and Waterford all have a BURREN PERFUMERY, CO CLARE great variety of large-scale mural works. The journey to this scent sanctuary, where Irish perfumes and cosmetics are made YOU CURATED THE ART AT THE HENDRICK and sold, is half the fun — it takes you SMITHFIELD HOTEL IN DUBLIN, DESCRIBED AS through the lunar landscape of Burren ‘IRELAND’S FIRST STREET ART HOTEL’. TELL US National Park. burrenperfumery.com ABOUT THAT. The project took place over a 10-month For more on Irish craft, design and period, which is reflected in the 300-plus classes, see designireland.ie. artworks adorning the hotel’s walls. This is a living gallery showcasing the history of urban art (graffiti and street art) right up to the present day, with pieces by the most avant-garde artists working within the field.

HOW DOES YOUR OWN HISTORY RESONATE IN YOUR WORK? My family ran a famous stained glass studio, Earley & Co., for more than 100 years in Dublin. I’m very proud and honoured to have THE NEXT CHAPTER this artistic heritage. The visual aesthetic of stained glass, as well as the structural fabric A look inside MoLI, Dublin’s new of the craft, permeates all the projects I work Museum of Literature Ireland on — be it fine art prints, canvases or large- scale murals taking over the entire sides of Passing through the warren of galleries buildings. It’s a constant. straddling three Georgian buildings on St Stephen’s Green, my guide and I come to a WHERE ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES TO SEE halt at a doorstopper of a tome in a glass case. AND ENGAGE WITH ART IN IRELAND? “This is probably the most valuable modern I really like the Royal Hibernian Academy literary artefact in the world,” says curator, in Dublin — it’s a beautiful space and it’s Simon O’Connor, beaming. very central. It always has well-curated It’s a copy of Ulysses — the first edition shows and champions a wide variety of handed to Joyce after its printing almost a Irish artists. Its Coppa Café on the ground century ago. The name of the museum itself, floor is excellent too. The permanent pronounced ‘Molly’, is of course a nod to Molly collection at the National Gallery is a sight Bloom, the novel’s heroine and the character to behold — Irish painter Mainie Jellett’s who speaks its final words. artworks steal the show for me every time. But MoLI isn’t just about Joyce, or even the My last recommendation is a selection of male mega-stars of the last century like WB independent art galleries in Dublin: The Yeats and Seamus Heaney. There’s also an Kerlin, SO Fine Art, Hang Tough Gallery, overdue focus on female writers and young Atelier Maser, Stoney Road Press and the James Earley spray painting adult fiction, as well as immersive displays and Graphic Print Gallery. Look them up on the wall of a building the odd analogue surprise — such as the stack Google and decide which to visit. LEFT FROM TOP: The interior of the of blank pages on which visitors are urged to Irish Design Shop in Dublin; Sweny’s write the first sentence of their own novel. jamese.ie. Follow James on Instagram Pharmacy, Dublin, which is featured in

Tickets €8/€6 (£6.60/£5). moli.ie IMAGES: PÓL Ó CONGHAILE; GETTY @james_earley. James Joyce’s modernist novel, Ulysses

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Looking down onto Strandhill Beach as a surfer catches a wave THE GREAT OUTDOORS

CO SLIGO THE PULL OF THE OCEAN Ireland has woken up to its world-class waves and in Strandhill, County Sligo, locals and blow-ins have both found an antidote to city living. The town is making a name for itself not only for surfing, but for outdoor adventures and its seaweed spa, too. A National Surf Centre is set to open this autumn, putting this welcoming town on the map

It’s a crisp afternoon in Strandhill. Two staying in vans and B&Bs. Today, the sport is out distant drumlins (low oval mounds) and surfers are walking towards the water, sexy, equipment affordable, and Ireland has passage tombs (covered burial chambers). wrapped head to toe in black neoprene, woken up to its world-class waves. Strandhill as the incline begins to steepen. I hear the silhouetted by a low winter sun. I feel cold is home to just a few thousand souls, but story of Queen Meadbh, the legendary Irish just looking at them. The onlooker beside me summer days see its car park packed out, warrior said to be buried standing up in a agrees. “They’re literally addicted to it. It’s and a National Surf Centre is set to open hilltop cairn, the better to face her enemies. like the priesthood or something.” this autumn. At the nearby Strand pub, the Sligo was also WB Yeats’ ‘Land of Heart’s I’m a fair-weather surfer, happy with the Guinness toucan has an adapted slogan: Desire’, and we can see ‘bare Ben Bulben’s odd summer outing. Sometimes I stand; ‘Surfing is good for you’. head’ to the northeast, beneath which the mostly I tumble into the great Atlantic Adventure tourism companies have poet lies buried in Drumcliff. washing machine. But these two are on a sprung up throughout County Sligo, offering “You can see the specks of surfers from the whole other level, zipping along the breaks, everything from kayaking on inland lakes to mountain, and the specks of hikers from the oblivious to the chill. hiking, biking, sailing and even ‘adventure surf,” says Barry, smiling at the notion. “I feel nourished here,” says Melanie yoga’ in this outdoorsy oasis. Back in Strandhill, we gather for warming White, one of the surfers, emerging from Then there’s ‘the mountain’, as everyone cups of coffee in Shells Cafe. The sun drops the water with her long hair dripping. She calls it. Knocknarea is a 1,072ft-high over the dunes, and we bask in the glow of gestures around Sligo Bay. “There’s just limestone lump that lords it over Strandhill good exercise under unexpected blue skies. something about the place. I love it.” like a souvenir-sized Table Mountain. To Melanie runs Rebelle Surf, one of several get a sense of the hold it has over locals, I MORE INFO: Rebelle Surf runs a women’s surf schools in the village. Some of her join a short hike to the summit led by Barry surf camp this summer, from 19-21 classes and camps are specifically for Hannigan of Northwest Adventure Tours. June 2020. Prices start at €250 (£210) women. “It’s a different style of surf lesson; “As far as archaeology goes, I think and includes lessons, lunches and yoga. it’s more about what’s stopping you catching Ireland’s probably one of the biggest rebellesurf.com sligosurfexperience.com the wave. Is it self-doubt? Is it fear?” A unopened boxes on the planet,” he says, northwestadventuretours.ie gostrandhill.com

IMAGE: STRANDHILLIMAGE: COMMUNITY ASSOCIATION DEVELOPMENT generation ago, surfers trickled through, taking us past deserted villages, pointing sligotourism.ie

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TOP 5: CULTURE ITINERARIES

WILD DINING Vagabond Tours’ six-day Epic Ireland Food Tour loops from Dublin to the south west and back. It includes seaweed harvesting and oyster shucking, and there are hiking and kayaking options too. From €1,766 (£1,472) per person. vagabondtoursofireland.com

TAKE THE HIGH ROAD Get your boots on for a seven-day guided itinerary exploring the likes of the Wicklow Mountains, Killarney National Park and Carrauntoohil (Ireland’s highest peak). From €1,695 (£1,412) per person. wildernessireland.com

HIGH CULTURE Many of Ireland’s great houses

The Dark Hedges, an avenue of were built in the Georgian beech trees along Bregagh Road era, and some are now visitor between Armoy and Stranocum in attractions. Culture & Heritage County Antrim Tours Ireland’s seven-day Wonderful World of Georgian Living takes in everything from the splendour of Florence Court CO ANTRIM to the faded grandeur of Dublin’s Henrietta Street. From around €2,600 (£2,166) per person THE TREES HAVE EYES cultureheritagetours.ie

Northern Island’s dramatic Causeway Coast provided the backdrop to Game of GO WEST Thrones. Walk in Arya Stark’s footsteps and sample ‘mini dragon’s eggs’ in a local Wild Atlantic Music Tours hotel — it’s the best way to relive the fantasy series until the new studio tour opens specialises in luxury coach tours of County Clare and I’m walking beneath a tangle of beech trees I stop at Waterfall Caves, a self-catering set- the west coast, accompanied near Ballymoney, County Antrim. It’s sunset, up at the Duncrun Fishing Lakes, beneath by musicians like Grammy and the branches of the trees — planted in the Binevenagh. At the reception hut, she keeps a Award-winning fiddle-player 18th century — seem to beckon me forward, map guests can use as a walking trail. Eileen Ivers. A six-night not just down the old estate avenue but into a The appeal of the show is such that visitors summer tour, including private whole world of fantasy. have a host of GoT experiences to choose concerts and sightseeing costs They did the same to Arya Stark, when she from, including bus tours, and medieval €1,869 (£1,556) per person. trundled off down the Kingsroad in HBO’s banquets and archery at Castle Ward wildatlanticmusictours.com Game of Thrones. The Dark Hedges, as this (Winterfell); there’s also a location touring avenue is known, is just one of dozens of app, and later this year, HBO and Linen Mill BESPOKE ADVENTURES filming locations from the show in Northern Studios are set to unveil an official studio tour Crafted Ireland offers bespoke Ireland. I’m on a driving tour of the Causeway in Banbridge. Whatever next? Dothraki trifle itineraries — a keen hiker with Coast; I’ve already stopped off at obvious with mini dragon’s eggs? Well, yes. In fact, it’s a penchant for history might be attractions like the Giant’s Causeway, but already on the menu at Ballygally Castle hotel. paired with an archaeologist there have also been detours to tiny Ballintoy or historian for an off-radar Harbour (gateway to the Iron Islands), MORE INFO: A Causeway Coast road excursion, for instance. Downhill Beach, where Stannis Baratheon trip can be started in Derry or Belfast. Prices from around €600 and Melisandre burned their effigies, and to Stay at Waterfall Caves from £110 a (£500) per person per day. Binevenagh Mountain (Dothraki Grasslands). night. visitcausewaycoastandglens.com craftedireland.com “Game of Thrones was filmed behind the waterfallcaves.com

IMAGE: TOURISM IRELAND TOURISM IMAGE: trees over there,” says Paula Canning, when discovernorthernireland.com

April 2020 91 IRELAND

Fanad Head Lighthouse, County Donegal

IRISH-SPEAKING TOP 4: WILD WEEKEND BOLTHOLES REGIONS Irish is taught in CLARE ISLAND LIGHTHOUSE, CO MAYO LEGAN CASTLE FARMHOUSE, Perched high on craggy cliffs overlooking THOMASTOWN, CO KILKENNY schools, appears on Clew Bay, Clare Island Lighthouse and Caroline Sweeney previously worked at signs and is sprinkled its former keepers’ quarters are today a ’s Grosvenor House, and she brings into conversation boutique accommodation option. Pick of a gorgeous eye for detail to her cosy set-up the rooms is the Tower House — located in the Kilkenny countryside. Set next to throughout Ireland in the original lighthouse tower — with its a small ruined castle and a 200-year-old (sláinte, meaning circular bedroom and a winding staircase. farmhouse, accommodation options include ‘cheers’, is the word Another option is the Sauna Suite, an a cottage guesthouse and luxury bell tents; every visitor learns), outhouse building with — you guessed there’s also a super cafe that uses homemade, it — a sauna. From €250 (£208) per person, homegrown and locally sourced produce. but full-blown Irish including B&B, dinner and ferry collection. From €79 (£66) per person per night. conversations are clareislandlighthouse.com legancastle.ie trickier to find. To

FINN LOUGH, CO FERMANAGH BREAC.HOUSE, DUNFANAGHY, immerse yourself The ‘Bubble Domes’ at Finn Lough have a CO DONEGAL in the local lingo, transparent roof and walls, allowing you to This sleek hideaway on the remote Horn plan a trip to one gaze out at the woods, stars (or, ahem, clouds) Head peninsula blurs the boundary between from the comfort of a four-poster bed. Space inside and out. Expect locally crafted of the country’s is tight — with just enough room for two furniture, native Irish materials like Donegal Gaeltachtaí (Irish- people — but decor is chic, with telescopes, tweed, a wood-fired garden sauna, craft speaking regions) Nespresso machines and fluffy robes all cocktails served at 5pm and locally-sourced provided. From £275, sleeping two people. breakfasts to boot. Rooms from €275 (£229). — mainly found on finnlough.com breac.house the west coast. IMAGE: AWL IMAGES

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