for the Connoisseur Lifestyle
In this issue: • Discovering Israeli Wines • Touring Niagara Wine Country • The Ocean Wise Cookbook • Spain and Tapas • Tasting Tennessee • Louisiana’s Outback: Art & Soul Food in Lake Charles
...and much more Elite 2010 • Issue 2 •
www.elitewinefoodtravel.com Proudly Canadian e TABLE OF CONTENTS Published by: Enoteca Publishing Inc.
Publisher: W. C. Cavaliere
w i n e Editor: Anna M. Cavaliere 4 Fermentations: Wine in Cans Contributing Writers: Anna M. Cavaliere Craig Gambarotto-McKay Barbara D. Ritchie W.C. Enoteca 6 Wine Line Margot Ritchie Edward Finstein Kait Nienhuis 23 Discovering Israeli Wines Graphic Design: Janet Beauchamp, Arteffects 35 Wine Buys Subscription Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine is a quarterly 47 Wining & Dining publication distributed to selected homes and businesses in the Toronto and surrounding area; 56 Touring Niagara Wine Country members of the hospitality, food and Travel industries; and subscribers. Readers wishing to subscribe should mail the yearly cost of $14.00 (outside Canada $25.00), payable to Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 37, Concord, food & recipes Ontario L4K 1B2. 5 Seasonal and Simple Feta Recipe from Klondike Cheese Letters to the Editor Comments, criticism, suggestions and complaints are welcome. All letters must include thewriter’s 34 Pan Seared Rockfish -Sustainable Food name and address. We reserve the right to edit letters for length and style. Address correspondence 46 Southwestern Louisiana Recipes to: Editor, Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 37, Concord, Ontario L4K 1B2, 50 The Ocean Wise Cookbook or e-mail: [email protected] Editorial Contributions 59 Recipe for WAVY TV Quick Chicken Dinner Manuscripts submitted, whether published or not, cannot be returned. No part of this publication may be reprinted without the express written permission of the publisher. Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine does not necessarily agree with t r a v e l the opinions expressed herein, nor may it be held responsible for facts as presented by authors, 2 Spain and Tapas contributors and/or advertisers. Advertising 10 Tasting Tennessee For rates and information, please telephone or write: Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine, 30 Israel’s Sights P.O. Box 37, Concord, Ontario L4K 1B2. Telephone: (905) 760-1724 or Fax: (905) 760-1718. 38 Louisiana’s Outback: Art & Soul Food in Lake Charles Website www.elitewinefoodtravel.com
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Spain &Tapas
Article and photos by Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay
man and woman walk into a bar on a warm, sunny When they ask to pay for the three drinks and food terrace overlooking the sea. The man orders a the couple is given a bill of 6 Euros ($8.10 CDN). A beer; the woman orders a gin and tonic. Oh, did I mention? Tax and tip are included in that total. The bartender brings a frosty mug of beer and a tall Where are they? They are in Spain, of course. That glass with ice cubes and a slice of lemon in it. He is one reason we go to Spain every year. selects a bottle of gin and begins pouring it into the glass. The gin rises higher and higher in the glass. Actually, those are five reasons we go to Spain: It is Finally the woman asks the bartender to stop pouring warm, there is a beautiful sea, drinks are free-poured, so that there will be some room left in the glass for a the bars give free food when you order a drink, and bit of tonic water. the prices are very reasonable. A few minutes later the bartender brings two small There are some other reasons to go to Spain. plates to the couple. One plate contains a dozen The fruit and vegetables are sweet and fresh. We freshly cooked shrimp with some dipping sauce. The buy a bag of six, fresh from the tree, ready to eat second plate has slices of cheese and ham. avocados for $2:00 CDN. Some of the best olives, As they enjoy the shrimp, ham, and cheese, the man from hundred year old trees are grown there and the finishes his beer and orders a glass of brandy. olive oil is so good that Italy buys it. The bartender brings a balloon glass and begins Sparkling wine made by the same method as pouring brandy into it. After a reasonable amount Champagne, and very high quality can be purchased of brandy has gone into the glass the bartender for as little as $2.50 per bottle. We have it regularly continues pouring. At some point the man asks the with lunch. bartender to stop pouring. Fish is available the same day it is caught. You can A few minutes later the bartender comes back with a buy it at the market each morning or order it for lunch plate upon which is piled an assortment of olives. in the restaurants. A local told me one should never order fish for supper because it is not fresh enough!
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • If you go to a restaurant on a day on which there has Prawns, (“gambas”) sauteed in salsa negra been a storm overnight you will often be told: “I’m (peppercorn sauce), al ajillo (with garlic), or pil-pil sorry. We don’t have any fish because there was a (with chopped chili peppers). storm and the boat couldn’t go out.” Most often the Octopus (“pulpo”) waiter will bring the fresh fish to you on ice so that you may inspect it before they prepare it for you. Cheese The beachfront restaurants offer fixed price menus for Pork chunks seasoned with garlic and parsley. lunch. The normal price is 9 or 10 Euros ($14-$15 Tortilla española – a type of omelet containing fried CDN). For that price, which includes tax and tip, you chunks of potatoes and sometimes onion. are offered a three course meal with choice of entree, main dish of fish or meat, and dessert and a bottle of N.B. Lately we have seen “tapas’ bars spring up in wine for two is included. North America. In most instances they are not true tapas since customers are required to pay for each The word “tapas” is derived from the Spanish verb of the tapas. Tapas are customarily given free with a tapar, “to cover”. The most commonly held belief beverage. The small servings of food which can be about the origin of tapas is that the original tapas purchased in Spain are called rationes (portions). were the slices of bread or meat which sherry drinkers in Andalusian taverns used to cover their glasses One of our favourite tapas bars in our town of between sips. This was a practical measure meant to Almunecar is called “La China”, situated right on the prevent fruit flies from hovering over the sweet sherry. beach. There, you are served substantial sized tapas The meat used to cover the sherry was normally ham with every drink, sometimes two tapas for one drink. or chorizo, which are both very salty and activate thirst. Often they start with half an avocado stuffed with tuna Spain &Tapas Because in Spain, dinner is usually served between 9 accompanied by a small salad, go on to breaded fried p.m. and 11 p.m. (sometimes as late as 12 midnight), aubergines, anchovies, meatballs, and finally finish Spaniards often will have a drink and eat tapas in the with a piece of cake to go with your café con leche. Article and photos by Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay time between finishing work and having dinner. Since We’ve not seen a dessert tapa anywhere except at lunch is usually served between 1 and 3 p.m., another this restaurant. For the price of a couple of drinks, this common time for tapas is around noon as a means of entire service comprises a meal. And the drinks don’t socializing before having lunch. have to be alcoholic – even bottled water will elicit a Often, you are served whatever the tapa of the day is. tapa. However, it is also quite common for a bar or restaurant Unfortunately, we’ve also recently seen a decline in to have 8 to 12 different kinds of tapas on display the quality of tapas at some bars, where one is served from which you may choose your own selection. Both only a small dish of mixed nuts or potato chips. To warm and cold tapas are available. It is rare to see us this represents a deterioration in the tradition of a tapas selection not include one or more types of providing sufficient food to tide one over until lunch or olives and you are almost always served a slice of dinner and is an unfortunate acknowledgement of the bread with any tapa, but especially those which are North American snacking habit. sauce-based. Where we winter in Andalucia, we’ve been fortunate to have Tapas are one of the reasons we enjoy Spain in the partaken of many of the most common Spanish tapas: winter. The weather, scenery and history are other reasons. There is history and architecture which Olives (“Aceitunas”) of many varieties reaches back thousands of years. The Phoenicians, Meatballs (“albóndigas”) , served in a tomato sauce the Romans, the Goths and Visigoths, the Moors and Anchovies (“boquerones”), usually deep fried but the northern Europeans were all there in their turn. sometimes served in vinegar Physical structures remain which tell of their activities Rings of battered squid. (“calamares”) and the way they helped to form what is modern Slow-cooked, tender beef. Spain. e Battered and fried tiny squid (“puntillitas”) Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay spend Chorizo sausage part of each yearin Spain. Croquettes There and abroad they search for and enjoy fine “Ensaladilla rusa” - made with mixed boiled vegetables wines and cuisine. Craig with tuna, olives and mayonnaise. has published also under the pen name E. Craig McKay and James W. Marsh. www.ecraigmckay.com • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 w i n e
Many consumers want wine they can sip on the “go”. fermentations: Younger consumers, in particular, want products that they can take to picnics and events, where glass is often banned. Finally, cans chill faster than glass bottles, especially good for white, sparkling, rosé and some sweet wines. All of these factors present a pretty good argument for wine in cans. Wine However, what about the taste? Will aluminum affect IN CANS the taste of wine? Article by Edward Finstein Beer in cans or draft housed in metal kegs don’t have a metallic taste as the insides of most cans and lids used for beer have a sprayed coating, ensuring that there is absolutely no contact between beer Wine in cans, eh? and aluminum. Comparative blind tastings of beer Although connoisseurs might balk at the concept, in bottles and cans exhibit no real difference, so sipping out of a can with a ring-pull could be even though wine contains more alcohol than beer, commonplace down the road. Sales of aluminum cans it probably works the same way. Australia has been to the wine industry, although still relatively low, are utilizing them for a while. Having tried some in Oz a on the rise, according to Rexam, one of the world’s number of years back, to my recollection, I found no largest can makers. There is growing demand from unusual taste. Mind you, it was a very commercial wine makers and retailers for alternative packaging. offering, but seeing as many craft-breweries utilize Over the last four years, sales to the wine industry cans for their upscale brews without problems, I have increased dramatically. There are several would suspect better quality wine in cans would show reasons why. equally well. Environmental issues are high on the list. A recent Even if wine in cans doesn’t affect the taste, there is study showed that cans have half the transport- the perception issue. It took consumers a long time related CO2 emissions of glass packaging. to embrace the idea of plastic corks, screw caps and plastic bottles for wine and, to this day, still only Aluminum cans are completely recycled into new associate them with inferior product. Wine in cans ones and back on the shelf within 60 days. might have the same stigma. Next would be cost. They are cheaper than glass I think it’s safe to say that cans will probably never bottles to produce, lighter than glass and do not break totally replace bottles for wine, but there are many if dropped. Because they are more compact, larger occasions when a bottle is not appropriate. Seeing volumes can fill containers and trucks. Because they as there is a growing demand from winemakers and are lighter, they weigh less. Both of these factors add retailers alike for alternative packaging, and from up to lower transportation and shipping costs. consumers’ There is also evidence to suggest that consumers’ changing drinking habits, it would appear to serve a changing drinking habits could drive this increase. purpose. While it may take some getting used to, wine Certainly the consumer today is more environmentally in cans may just be another evolutionary change that aware and looking for ways to help out, so wine in cans one day will be commonplace. Only time will tell. e could be a step in that direction. Many consumers see the attraction of drinking smaller amounts or Edward Finstein, The Wine Doctor, is the award-winning one glass at a time. “Single- serve” is what a lot of author of "Ask the Wine Doctor" (McClelland & Stewart), people want and it’s something that hasn’t really TV/Radio host, renown wine journalist, international wine judge, Professor of Wine, appraiser, lecturer, worked in the wine industry so far. The can would tour guide and consultant. Listen to Doc’s weekly wine fill this bill nicely. Mobility may be playing a big part. features on 97.3 EZ Rock radio (FM) or the podcasts at ezrock.com. His website is: www.winedoctor.ca
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • f o o d Seasonal and Simple Feta Recipe from Klondike Cheese
onroe, Wisconsin - Klondike Cheese Festive Feta Salad Company’s Odyssey brand Feta is a life- with Blood Oranges Msimplifying ingredient for holiday entertaining and quick healthful meals during the year’s busiest From: Chef/owner Peter Sandroni of La Merenda season. This Greek-style cheese is available in plain Restaurant, Milwaukee, WI. or flavored varieties. Odyssey brand Feta, a classic Yield: 2 servings made by Klondike for more than 20 years, does Salad: most of the work while you take all the credit. Third 2 blood oranges, peeled, segmented, juice saved Generation brothers Ron, Steve and Dave Buholzer are all Master Cheesemakers. Under their direction, 1/2 cup small red onion, cut in half, thinly sliced Klondike produces consistent, affordable cow’s milk 1/2 cup kalamata olives, pitted Feta with artisan flavor that enhances everything from 2 ounces arugula omelets to global appetizers and entrees. 1 teaspoon mint, finely chopped Feta is ideal for creating quick, easy specialties on your seasonal menu. Festive Feta Salad with Blood 4 tablespoons Klondike Cheese’s Odyssey brand Oranges, for example, brings a bright burst of color Feta, plain and flavor to your table. The simple recipe, provided salt and pepper to taste herein, comes from chef Peter Sandroni of Le Dressing: Merenda Restaurant in Milwaukee, WI —Klondike’s home state—and demonstrates how you can get 3 tablespoons fresh blood orange juice Feta-festive with holiday meals. 1 tablespoon grated orange zest With Klondike’s Odyssey brand Feta Cheese, you 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar know you’re providing a blend of taste and tradition. 1 tablespoon garlic, minced Now you also can cater to guests who want to splurge 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil on flavor and feel even better about it: Offer them appetizers made with Fat-Free Traditional Feta, Tomato and Basil, Mediterranean Herb, Peppercorn, Peel orange and remove white pith parts from orange. and Garlic and Herb. Place oranges over small bowl and separate into The historic Klondike Cheese Factory was originally segments, reserving juice while segmenting orange. started by a farmers’ cooperative more than three- In a medium serving bowl, add oranges, onions, olives, arugula, mint, Feta cheese, salt and pepper. quarters of a century ago. Under the operation of Mix lightly. In a separate small bowl, add the remaining the Buholzer family, Feta remains the company’s dressing ingredients, whisk together until frothy. Add signature cheese. For more information from dressing to salad, toss lightly. Serve immediately. Klondike, call 608-325-3021 or visit the website at www.klondikecheese.com. e
• Issue 2 • Elite 2010 w i n e
THE
WineLineArticle and photos by Barbara D. Ritchie
Paul Hobbs – Global Reputation Paul’s winemaking career began at Napa’s Mondavi Winery, where he became Head Oenologist, for Superior Winemaking responsible for the Opus One wine. Subsequently, he moved to Simi Winery in California’s Sonoma region in Born in 1953 to a family of 11 children, Paul Hobbs’ the 1980s where his interest in emerging wine regions passion for wine began as a young boy when his connected him with Nicolas Catena, one of Argentina’s father uncorked a bottle of 1962 Chateau d’Yquem, leading winemakers in the Mendoza Valley. Catena the best Sauternes in the world. He gained hands persuaded Hobbs to take on a new project to make on experience with grape growing when his father what became Argentina’s first world class Chardonnay replanted a section of the family’s New York apple in 1989. orchards to grapes in 1969. While studying medicine, Hobbs also began to consult for other premium his biology professor and former winemaker at California wineries, and in 1991, he launched the Christian Brothers Winery invited him to take his Paul Hobbs Winery in Sonoma to make hand-crafted, wine tasting seminars, inspiring Hobbs to switch to boutique wines. In 1998 he bought 19 acres in the an enology degree at California’s University of Davis. Russian River Valley, naming the pinot noir section the Lindsay Vineyard after his grandmother. His winery is near Sebastopol, which has red clay soil that is rich in iron. In 1999 Hobbs recruited husband and wife team,
winemaker Luis Paul Hobbs Baraud and Photo provided by Paul Hobbs viticulturalist Andrea Marchiori at his California operation to be his partners in his new Vina Cobos winery in Argentina’s M e n d o z a Valley. Their shared dream was to make powerful and elegant Malbecs, Paul Hobbs Cellar Tasting unrivalled in the Photo by Barbara Ritchie
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • world. Andrea is the daughter of the original owner cloves and allspice, with barnyard aromas and a of the Marchiori vineyard, where Vina Cobos sources long, intense finish. grapes from 60-80 year old vines. The property THE Vina Cobos Malbec 2005 (14.5%) is an even more lies on a well drained, ancient seabed at one of the complex and sophisticated wine, from a particularly highest elevations in the Mendoza region, forcing the exceptional vintage, with cool evenings that moderate vines to struggle for nutrients and thereby enhancing the daytime heat, and minimal rain during the fall. the quality Showing an elegant, somewhat restrained nose of of wine. The evolution of the wines over the past red berries and dark cherries, on the palate these decade is not just about vintage variation, but fruits come to the fore with appealing mocha and WineLine reflects Hobbs’ efforts to learn how to control cocoa flavours that add to its charming character. and influence the myriad of variables involved With Vina Cobos Malbec 2006 (15.4%), Hobbs in producing wine from the Malbec grape. This had better control of the vinification because it took included establishing a new trellising system in place in their newly launched winery. This massive 2002, and a state-of-the-art winery built in 2006. wine has an intense structure, firm tannins and a dense, focused character underpinning a palate of Paul Hobbs was in Toronto this June to conduct a wild blueberries and red currants complemented vertical tasting of his Sonoma and Mendoza wines. with hints of pepper and cedar. This was co-staged by his agent, Authentic Wine & Vina Cobos Malbec (15.4%) is from a cooler vintage which, despite Spirits Merchants at Toronto’s Barberian Steakhouse. 2007 its high alcohol, delivered more floral, delicate scents All of the Vina Cobos wines we sampled were 100% with pronounced plum compote and a dash of black varietal Malbec wines, unfined and unfiltered. They pepper in the finish. range in price from $140 to $170. He also makes a superb Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon wine under the The California portion of his tasting began with Paul Bramare Marchiori Vineyard label. Hobbs Lindsay Estate Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2007 (14.7%). Aged for 16 months His Argentine tasting began with Vina Cobos Malbec in French oak, this ruby red wine shows red cherry, 1999 (13.9%) the winery’s inaugural wine, which cola and forest berry flavours, with accents of white received the highest rating of any Argentine wine that pepper and layers of mocha and cedar. year. Hand harvested, de-stemmed in an open top Paul Hobbs fermenter and aged for 18 months in French oak, this Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr Crane St. (15.1%) is from a slightly cooler still deeply coloured wine has raisin and herbal notes Helena Napa Valley vintage. Aged for 20 months in French oak, this intense underpinning cherry, pomegranate, red berry and wine delivers a full palate of concentrated red and black cedar flavours. Vina Cobos Malbec 2002 (14%) currants, mocha, dried herbs and tar with delicious came from one of the best harvests in Mendoza in 15 vanilla nuances. years. Aged for 21 months in primarily French oak, Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon
this deep inky wine shows tight tannins, with dark Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard Oakville Napa (15.3%) is from a vineyard at the south end of Napa, berries and currants, plums and licorice notes. Vina near Yountville, where the cooling Carneros breezes Cobos Malbec 2003 (14.5%), from a cooler vintage, temper the heat of the day. Wines from this vineyard was aged 18 months in French oak. Opaque and tend to be more austere, due to the graphite, gravelly more complex than the 2002 vintage, it offers red soils. This inky wine has black currant, cassis, espresso berry flavours and layers of coffee and cedar, with and chocolate notes framed in a harmonious structure. silky tannins in the finish. Vina Cobos Malbec 2004 (15.4%) is an extremely powerful wine. Rich and complex, it has a dense core of jam, mocha, cedar,
• Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Ste. Michelle Wine Estates – A Influential Napa Valley properties -- Villa Mt. Eden and Conn Wine Conglomerate Based in Washington Creek. Renamed Stimson Lane Vineyards and Estate that same year, the company joined forces with Italian
winemaker Piero Antinori in the late 1990s to create Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is one of the most influential a premium international styled wine from Washington conglomerates on the US wine scene. It considers under the Col Solare label. In 2004 the conglomerate its family of wineries to be a ‘string of pearls’, viewing changed its name again to Ste. Michelle Wine itself as the ‘string’ that provides the administrative Estates. and financial support for the ‘pearls’ of premium estate wines it has acquired throughout Washington, Oregon Its family of wineries now includes 11 in the Pacific and Napa. Northwest (Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia-Crest, Col Solare, Domaine Ste Michelle, Erath [bought Its history dates back to 1934, when it originated as in 2006], 14 Hands, Northstar, Red Diamond, the Pommerelle Wine Company in Seattle. It went Snoqualmie, Spring Valley Vineyard, Stimson Estate on to become the pioneer of the Washington wine Cellars) and four in California (Conn Creek [2006], industry, creating the Chateau Ste. Michelle winery in Hawk Crest, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars [2007] and Villa 1967 to follow the trend towards European varietals. Mt. Eden [2006]). They have also partnered with 11 They enlisted famed winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff other wineries, acting as agents for these wines as of Napa Valley’s Beaulieu Vineyards to oversee this part of their larger conglomerate. effort, enabling the winery to survive Prohibition. It is now the largest winery in Washington. In 1974, Their Ontario agent, Profile Wine Group staged a the company was bought by tobacco producer, UST tasting of a selection of their wines this spring. This is Inc. which provided the financial support to establish a sampling of some of the many highlights. Chateau another Washington winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle. Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Chardonnay 2008 In 1985 they launched the Columbia Crest winery in (13.5%; V232439; $17.95) is a food friendly wine with Washington and the following year purchased two a soft, rich texture derived from aging `sur lie’. Citrus
Alexandria Lafontaine Filet mignon – Market Director Photo by Barbara Ritchie North America Château Ste. Michelle Wine Estates
Photo by Barbara Ritchie
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • and pear flavours, with hints of cedar and vanilla show beautifully in this moderate length wine. Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Chardonnay 2008 (13.5%; consignment; $26.95) is a rich, mouth filling wine that was hand stirred and aged in American and Hungarian barriques, showing full lemon and pear aromas and flavours with traces of ginger, honey, caramel and banana.
Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Syrah 2006 (14.7%; private import [P.I.]; $40.95) with 2% Mourvedre in the blend, aged for 20 months in American and French oak. Rich, dense and muscular, this inky wine has round, opulent flavours of ripe cherries, plums and pomegranate. Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Merlot
2006 (14.5%; P.I; $49.95) has 2.5% Malbec and 2.5% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend and was aged for 20 months in oak. Plum purple, the palate is dominated by red berries and dark plum fruits with cedar notes in a frame of soft tannins. Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Smoked salmon Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 (14.2%; P.I; $43.95) has Photo by Barbara Ritchie increased structure from the addition of 3% Malbec and 1% Petite Verdot. Ripe and juicy, this expressive wine (13.5%; consignment; $26.95) has a small amount of has prominent cassis flavours, with underpinnings of Semillon added to the blend to round out the palate. cedar and nuances of eucalyptus. Pale lemon, it has subtle citrus flavours with herbal Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2008 and nutty traces. Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars Karia (13.5%; P.I.; $18.95) underwent battonage, (stirring (Kar-ee-ah, meaning graceful) Chardonnay 2007 of the lees), giving the wine a rich creamy aspect. It (13.5%; consignment; $32.95) has a lovely floral nose displays ripe pear scents and flavours touched with of orange blossoms, with apple and peach flavours ginger, spice and vanilla notes in the lingering finish. and subtle oak undertones. Stag’s Leap Wine Erath Pinot Noir Oregon 2008 (13.8%; consignment; Cellars Fay Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 (14.5%; P.I.; $28.95) is pale strawberry pink in colour with an acidic $125.00) was made from grapes grown on the Fay backbone. Sweet cherries, leather and streaks of vineyard, a top quality source of Cabernet Sauvignon earth come through in this easy drinking wine. Villa from alluvial soils, which Winiarski purchased in 1976. Mt. Eden Russian River Pinot Noir 2007 (13.5%; P.I.; This powerful, inky wine shows dense flavours of $39.95) has medium extracted colour, with strawberry sweet cassis touched with anise, nutmeg and spice. e and cherry flavours enhanced by wafts of coffee and mocha. Barbara Ritchie is a wine writer and lecturer. Having travelled extensively throughout the main wine-growing regions of the world with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars won acclaim by placing her twin sister Ann, she regularly conducts first among ten French and California wines at the wine seminars for major corporations and restaurant groups, while also participating famed Judgement of Paris in 1973. Warren Winiarski in various wine judging panels worldwide, started the winery just one year earlier and sold to including Intervin. Her judging experience includes a session at Italy’s prestigious “Banco d’Assaggio”, held each year at Chateau Ste. Michelle in 2007, after 35 years. Stag’s Lungarotti’s Le Tre Vaselle in Umbria, to assess wines from Leap Wine Cellars Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc throughout Italy.
• Issue 2 • Elite 2010 t r a v e l A river view of Memphis from rooftop of Madison Hotel. Tasting Tennessee
Chris Windsor, Executive Chef, Article and photos by Anna Cavaliere Madison Hotel
The tasting trail from Memphis to Tennessee is a ‘call to arms’ of your taste buds. Prepare to be wowed by the variety and quality of what this musical state has laid out for adventurous foodies and intrepid travelers.
THE MEMPHIS FOOD TRAIL Where cornbread and ribs take centre stage in the city’s cuisine scene. GRILL 83, MADISON HOTEL Executive Chef Chris Windsor insists on using the best and locally grown in-season ingredients, sticking to and relying on classics that are both simple yet attractively presented.
A river view of Memphis from rooftop of Madison Hotel. Offering its guests an eclectic repertoire, from Southern-style cuisine used for catering and buffets for all occasions, the hotel can also include special ‘family recipes’ upon request. With limited seating in a welcoming setting, the restaurant is known for its steaks, lamb, duck and fish dishes. For pre or after dinner drinks, the adjacent bar offers patrons martinis or wines from its ample list. Our dinner began with lamb Tasting Tennessee chops and fig compote, Thai based lobster, and mango salad. There followed the signature dish of corn bread pudding, honey glazed shrimp along with Lobster and saffron cous cous. The 16 oz. Kansas City bone in fillet was cooked to perfection, and we topped off our meal with a trio of ginger: molasses, gelato, ale. Top marks to Chef Chris for a truly superb feast. www.grill83.com
Memphis – ARCADE Home of the Blues, Birthplace of Located in the triangle which once was home to Rock & Roll three train stations, the restaurant was opened in 1919 as the Paris Café by Greek immigrant Speros Zepatos. One of 165 downtown restaurants in Memphis, the Arcade is the city’s oldest restaurant and is run by third-generation owners Harry and Karan Zepatos. A majority of clients are from local businesses, with the rest coming from the tourism sector. Open from 7:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. seven days a week, you can identify home cooked daily specials that are Chris Windsor, highlighted on the menu. Known for their sweet Executive Chef, potato pancake, breakfast is served all day and lunch specials include such items as the meat loaf Madison Hotel and chicken spaghetti dish. Elvis was a regular here, and you can find a plaque over the booth where he sat. Movie buffs will be intrigued with the act that famous films such as “Mystery Train”, “The Firm”, “Elizabethtown”, and “Nothing but the Truth” were filmed at the café. Experience the Lobster with Arcade for yourself! www.arcaderestaurant.com saffron cous cous
Harry Zepatos Deni and Patrick Reilly, Owners, Majestic Grille MAJESTIC GRILLE Originally built in 1913, the building housed The Majestic No. 1 Theatre, a men’s clothing store, an office for law firms until it was turned into a restaurant in the late ‘90s. The current owners pretty well gutted the building, but made a conscious decision to restore and/or keep its most important features. Open for approximately three years, for the past two years Majestic Grille has been voted Best Restaurant & Best Overall Downtown Restaurant. Upon entering, one is struck by the high ceilings, cornice and other original embellishments as well as the large screen which plays silent films. The restaurant seats 220, while the second floor accommodates 100-125 for cocktail parties. The Innovators Room, used for private dining or art exhibits, lends itself to the owners’ goal to create a community gathering area for the Arts. Thus it is The Majestic Grille viewed from second floor that art and other exhibits enhance your enjoyment of the diverse and exceptional menu and wine list that includes many wines from family-owned wineries. Popular with its patrons is the signature “Strawberry basil martini”, as is their 3-course Chef Table. Did I mention that their gourmet pizzas and salmon are to die for? Entertainment such as jazz and other popular music rounds out your dining experience. Call 901 289-3870 (Deni) or go to www.majesticgrille.com for information.
BEAUTY SHOP Don’t be fooled by the name – it really is a restaurant. You can’t get your nails or hair done here, but you can see the individual booth once occupied by Priscilla Presley when she came to get her beehive style hairdo. Owned by the Atkins family, the décor incorporates the original individual booths, sinks and driers. Opened in 2002 in the Cooper Young district, the menu is eclectic Americana with a touch of Asian that appeals to the area’s hip first-time home buyers. Offerings include such entrees as whole striped
Diners at Beauty Shop Hearty Lunch at the Beauty Shop
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 12 bass, or the best bacon/lettuce/tomato/avocado sandwich to be found. The restaurant is open for lunch Monday to Saturday, brunch on Sunday, and 6 nights for dinner. Owner Karen Carrier has a Sushi restaurant next door and the ever-popular “Automatic Slims” in both Memphis and N.Y.C. www.thebeautyshoprestaurant.com
COZY CORNER Desiree Robinson and her husband Ray were food enthusiasts who, when they lived in Denver, often barbecued for themselves and friends. When they moved back to Memphis 32 years ago they opened up the “Cozy Corner”. Since then, this family-run business has been serving seriously good and juicy barbecued Cornish hens and ribs, bologna and sliced beef which are accompanied by their famous coleslaw and baked beans. Along with her children and grandchildren, the tradition is carried on by Desiree much to the delight of the restaurant’s loyal customers who come from all over the globe to enjoy these specialties cooked in the original ‘pit’. Open 10:30 a.m. to 5:00 The original Pit p.m. Tuesday to Saturday, there is a constant flow of customers and you may have to wait for a table. Juicy ribs But this must see, must taste locale is worth it! www.cozycornerbbq.com.
GUS’S WORLD FAMOUS HOT AND SPICY FRIED CHICKEN In the town of Mason, Tennessee – population 500 – a man named Napoleon Vanderbilt began experimenting with fried chicken recipes. Once it was perfected, the recipe was passed on to his son Vernon “Gus” Bonner. The original Gus’s in Mason no longer exists, but the franchise at 310 S. Front Street in Memphis is all the rage with locals and visitors alike. The motto ““provide a simple menu – make it one way, make it good” is accomplished by the secret batter that is purchased A family business: Desiree, Lailah, Val and brought in from Mason. The hot sauce is a creeping slow burn that, when mixed with the juiciness of the meat, tends to calm the palate. Chicken is trimmed of fat and skin and washed thoroughly, with every piece prepared by hand and made to order attracting people from around the globe. With 200,000 lbs. of meat sold out of the restaurant yearly, my guesse is
13 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Gus’s Interior that there are a lot of happy and contended people in Memphis! Catering is also an option, with items that include catfish, turkey, as wellas coconut, pecan and other pies. Open Sunday to Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, 11:00 a.m. to 10:00 p.m. Phone 901 527-4877.
PHELAN HOUSE This fashionable suburban house, built between 1828-1833, once served as headquarters for both the confederate and union armies during the civil war as well as home to four presidents. Registered on the National Registry of Historic Homes, and more than a museum, this house that survived as the last of the Gus’s hot and spicy fried great Beale Street Mansion is a living and breathing chicken with side dishes slice of history. Situated on seven acres, the property attracts visitors from not only the state but from around the world. Its unique rooms, decorated with period furniture, welcome guests with comfortable and modern amenities. After an appetizing continental breakfast in the restaurant, the traveler can take a leisurely stroll along the peaceful garden. The varied menu, including their signature dish of Red Fish Clemnso, is influenced by French Creole cooking while making use of the fresh produce from local purveyors. Contemporary four-star cuisine awaits you in a stylish atmosphere. www.huntphelan.com.
CHEZ PHILIPPE RESTAURANT Cuban born and French-trained Chef Rinaldo Alfonso incorporates French cuisine with Asian influences in his creative dishes. Unusual fares of veal osso bucco, dumplings and tempting comfort foods such as apple fritters with walnut-maple ice cream are to be discovered on the menu. What
Phelan House Relaxing garden - Phelan House
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 14 Chef Rinaldo Alfonso, Chez Philippe Restaurant you won’t find is duck which (not coincidentally) has not been served since 1981 when the Peabody Hotel reopened. Considered to be the city’s most opulent dining room, Chez Philippe has received the AAA Four Diamond Award and the only Mobil 4-Star gourmet restaurant winner in the Mid-South. www.peabodymemphis.com/dining
SITES AND SOUNDS IN MEMPHIS STAX RECORDS Many famous soul singers got their start at Stax, a mom and pop operation which began in a garage and later moved to the old movie theatre. This ‘holy grail’ produced so much musical talent that it is called “Soulsville U.S.A.”. In 1974, having lost that family feeling, the theatre went under and the original theatre was demolished in 1989. The new theatre, the only ‘soul music’ museum in the world, opened in 2003. It houses memorabilia along with the music of Motown, Muscle Shoals, Hi and Atlantic Records. Exhibits feature the inside of a 100-year old Delta church that represents the roots of Soul; Isaac Hayes’ 1972 gold-trimmed, peacock blue “Superfly” Cadillac; and Studio A, where the Stax sound was born. Music greats such as Aretha Franklin, Booker T., Wilson Pickett, Otis Redding and others came from or recorded at Stax.
SUN Sam Phillips opened “Memphis Recording Service” Gourmet Dining in 1950. Just two years later it became “Sun”, the studio that launched Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, B.B. King, Roy Orbison and Howling Stax Records Museum Wolf. It was at Sun that Elvis recorded “That’s All Right” on July 5, 1954. Still a working studio today, the public can tour the premises from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., every hour on the half hour. Enjoy a beverage at the café next door, where artists can be seen hanging out between recording sessions.
15 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 MARCH OF THE DUCK – PEABODY HOTEL Next to Elvis and Beale Street, the March of the Duck is one of the top three reasons to visit the historical Peabody Hotel. What began as a prank in 1932, when General Manager Frank Schutt left three live duck decoys in the hotel’s Grand Lobby fountain, has become a popular tradition. In response to the initial fantastic reactions of the guests, five North American Mallard ducks have since replaced the originals. Every three months new 1-year old ducks are brought in and Ducks resting in the fountain train for one week with the veteran ducks who then return to the farm to live out the rest of their time. The Duckmaster, the fourth since the tradition began, is The Duckmaster responsible for training and maintaining the ducks. Housed in the Duck Palace on the hotel roof, at 11:00 a.m. daily they march to the fountain to the tune of John Philip Sousa’s “King Cotton March”, returning to their residence at 5:00 p.m.
CIVIL RIGHTS MUSEUM – “Injustice anywhere is an injustice everywhere”. Martin Luther King Founded in 1991 on the site of the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King spent his last hours on April 4, 1968, the museum has nineteen exhibit halls that recount the history of the Civil Rights Movement in the U.S. from the 1600s to Dr. King’s assassination. The second building across the street, that includes the Young Morrow rooming house from which the fatal shot was fired by James Earle Ray, opened in 2002 and continues the story from 1968 until the present day. Allow yourself plenty of time to properly tour this museum that stirs your emotions and arouses deep feelings. For tour dates and times, visit www.civilrightsmuseum.org.
The Lorraine Motel An Exhibit
16 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 16 Record Keeping
COTTON EXCHANGE A hub for the cotton industry, more than 50% of the cotton sold in the world was sold in Memphis and brought to Cotton Row where everything related to cotton was housed: insurance, transportation and brokers. Cotton changed the face and soul of the South, while influencing the music of soul, blues and rock and roll. The second building trading floor is now a museum with interactive and informative displays and videos. Homage is still paid to cotton with Cotton Samples the yearly “Cotton Carnival” at which time King Cotton is crowned. www.memphiscottonmuseum.org.
GIBSON GUITAR Elvis played mainly on a Gibson guitar. Recognized by its patented open book (moustache) design, the guitar is made from Mahogany from South America and Poplar and Maple from Wisconsin. All are hand-carved and require12 coats of lacquer. Special orders take up to a year to produce and cost $10,000 and more. Approximately 45 guitars a day are produced by workers who have been trained from 2-12 months. Before the product is delivered, two ‘luthiers’ Gibson Guitar test it. Conscious of the environment, Gibson replants trees to replace those cut down. This guitar maker is located at 145 Lt. George Lee Avenue, one block off Beale Street. www.gibson.com.
SMITHSONIAN’S MEMPHIS ROCK & SOUL MUSEUM The only downtown museum experience in Memphis, it covers the history of gospel, country, and rock and soul music. Developed by the Smithsonian Institute, it tells the story of the civil rights movement through music from the 1930s to the 1970s and showcases rare Elvis memorabilia. www.memphisrocknsoul.org.
Rock & Roll Museum Brooks and Juanita Shaw CASEY JONES VILLAGE Situated on Interstate 40, halfway between Memphis and Nashville, this village houses Brooks Shaw’s Old Country Store. Before it opened in 1965 this restaurant was a museum, but today you can pamper yourself with “Best of the South” traditional food. Historically, the southern table is not just fried chicken or barbecue and crackling cornbread, but also features vegetables. This restaurant offers an ample buffet that includes 10-15 hot vegetables each day, thus promoting local farmers’ market produce, so come hungry as there is a large selection of yummy food items. The Shaw’s are members of the Slow Food program, and Southern Foodway (encyclopedia of southern Culture). Live bluegrass music played by 70 musicians who come from all walks of life, be it farmers or corporate executives, can be heard at the country store throughout the year. Bluegrass Musicians Browse the Wellwood store where you can purchase items dating back to 1940 or prior, and take your pick of flavours at the 1890s ice cream parlor. This village is a great place to visit for the entire family. www. oldcountrystore.com. Charlie and Judy Tripp founded Tripp Country Hams in1963. We were to a variety of country hams including roll and fried which were served with red-eye gravy and biscuit. Similar to Spain’s “Cerrano” and Italy’s “prosciutto”, this variety has garnered many awards. www.countryhams.com. Produced by Freddy and Mary Beth Smith, Sorghum is made from 14-18 ft. stalks of sorghum and transformed into golden brown syrup that contains important nutrients such as iron, calcium and potassium. A great “Ham it up” health food, it can be poured over pancakes, biscuits or toast, ice cream or as an ingredient for ginger snaps or ginger bread. In fact, it can be used for any recipe that requires molasses, honey, corn or maple syrup. www.smithsorghumfarm.com.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 18 DISCOVERING NASHVILLE ABOUT NASHVILLE James Robertson spent the Christmas of 1779 here, and built Fort Nashborough, later renamed Nashville (French version). Overlooking the Cumberland River, Nashville was the first state capital to fall during the civil war. Boasting 28 colleges, universities and trade schools, the city is considered the “Athens of the South”. In fact, you can view the world’s only “temporary’ exact replica of the Parthenon in Athens, which was built in 1897 to celebrate Nashville’s 100th anniversary. The upper portion is a 42’ statue of Athena, Goddess of Wisdom, while the bottom is an Art Museum. . Nashville is home to the Ryman Auditorium, the 5th home of the Grand Ole Opry that features gospel, rock and roll, and soul music (and every winter the Opry still returns to the Ryman). The Fisk Jubilee Singers were the first group to be recorded in Nashville. Today there are 1,500 recording studios, the most famous of which is the RCA Victor Studio “B”, along Music Row, where Elvis recorded “Are you lonely tonight?” in one take, in the dark. In addition to its musical importance, the city is known for its major insurance and banking industries.
graduation, client appreciation, and corporate team Gastronomical Delights building occasions. Three to five-hour programs are tailored to meet individual needs. The CIA Cordon Bleu chef, who also maintains the kitchen, conducts VIKING STORE the program in addition to his full-time job. The Located in Franklin, this unique store proffers demo kitchen seats 46-50 comfortably, but there is demonstrations, hands-on cooking classes, wine also an outdoor kitchen with grill/smoky that is used tastings and private events for a minimum of 6 people. when weather permits. Busy with private events from Since cooking brings everyone together in a bonding October – December, visit www.vikingcookingschool. experience, these events are ideal for birthday, com/franklin if you wish to attend classes.
19 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Pancake Pantry PANCAKE PANTRY You don’t have to wait until ‘Pancake Tuesday’ to get your fill of pancakes. Just join the locals who line up for hours every day to indulge in a multitude of pancake variations, along with other regular breakfast and lunch items from the vast menu. What will you select – the Australian Apple-Walnut, Sweet Potato or Georgia Peach pancakes? The choice is entirely up to you, and you will relish every bite. Visit www.thepancakepantry. com for more information.
Mmmmm good MIDTOWN CAFÉ Opened in 1987 by Randy Rayburn, this upscale restaurant has become a common meeting ground for the well-known. The modern décor is a perfect backdrop for enjoying one of 40 wines by the glass, or 150 by the bottle. Guests can savor the generous portion of the appetizing “Seafood Salad Special”, or the scrumptious Artichoke and Lemon Soup that blew me away. The lemon tartness offsets the artichoke’s sweetness and, slightly spicy, it was enhanced by peppery notes of freshly ground black pepper. Kudos to Chef Brian Uhl for creating sophisticated dishes which still manage to honor southern style cooking. Artichoke Valet parking is available, reservations recommended. and Lemon www.midtowncafe.com. Soup at Midtown Café NASHVILLE ORIGINALS – The Group Thirty-eight independent and locally-owned restaurants have banded together to establish an Nashville Originals, an organization that promotes such restaurants while increasing public awareness. Our evening featured four chefs, each of whom prepared one course while adhering to the philosophy that one must use good products and treat them with respect. An unusual dish was a different take on chicken/waffle which, surprisingly, proved to be not as sweet as Chicken Waffle expected. It was a memorable evening, made all the better with entertainment provided by songwriter/singer James Dean Hicks.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 20 Breakfast at Union Station UNION STATION Breakfast at the modern reincarnation of the iconic Union Station was superb way to begin the day. The hotel’s intimate approach to functions and dining, coupled with its extensive wine list developed by the on-site sommelier, ensures that guests are not disappointed. www.unionstationhotelnashville.com/dining
GAYLORD OPRYLAND RESORT AND CONVENTION CENTER The largest of the four Gaylord properties, and the 17th largest in the world, this marvelous complex encompasses 9.5 acres of gardens and waterways ‘under glass’. With 2,881 guest rooms, it’s not surprising that it requires 400 culinary personnel to feed the 3 million guests each year. You don’t have to be a guest to eat at any of its distinctive restaurants, each of which is a reflection of history, food and architecture. At the newly renovated Cascades we were dazzled by samples from the Seafood Restaurant and enticed by the Italian dishes from Ristorante Volare. Those who like a bit of everything can make their way to the buffet at Water’s Edge, while fine dining is offered at the Old Hickory Steakhouse. More casual fare such as hamburgers and ribeye steaks are served at Jack Daniel’s Saloon. The menus are as varied as they are extensive, and you will be hard pressed to make your selection. That’s reason enough to visit more than once! www.gaylordhotels.com/gaylord-opryland. Gardens and waterways – Gaylord Opryland Resort CITY HOUSE It may look like a rundown house in the city’s L-R: Seth Kondor, Executive Chef, Old Hickory Germantown section, but this restaurant’s interior Steakhouse; Forrest Parker, Executive Chef, greets visitors with great space, high ceilings, wooden Cascades; Jason Kroll, Executive Chef, Water’s block tables and a modern décor. Chef Tandy Wilson Edge Marketplace Buffet & Ristorante Volare. opened the restaurant in 2007 with dishes inspired by his travels in Italy, while exercising a common sense approach to using sustainable organic products in preparing simple food. Pizza is probably the biggest item, but there is something to be said for the Frico from Italy’s Friuli region, catfish from Missouri, and bread gnocchi. www.cityhousenashville.com.
Pizza anyone?
21 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Margot Cafe & Bar
Chef/Owner, Margot McCormack
MARGOT CAFÉ & BAR Many of the Victorian homes and stately manors that once graced this ‘heart of east Nashville” were wiped away by a tornado. But this establishment, launched in the early 1900’s as the first neighbourhood restaurant in Nashville, continues to provide visitors with a range of rustic Tuscany and Southern France dishes. The menu, that changes daily and is seasonally driven, can be accompanied with wines from its eclectic and far-reaching list. Reservations are strongly recommended by calling. www.margotcafe.com. CAPITOL GRILLE AT THE HERMITAGE HOTEL What a blissful experience it was to dine in this elegantly appointed 106 Pleasure of a fresh salad seat dining room located in the Hermitage Hotel, which opened its doors (Capital Grille – the Hermitage) in 1910. The hotel became ‘the’ gathering place for the city’s upper crust, as well as other well known figures ranging from presidents to war heroes and actors. Originally built as a private club or men only, the restaurant’s ambiance reflects the creative accomplishments of Executive Chef Tyler Brown. Using only the freshest and seasonal local products - with emphasis on Tennessee Black Angus Beef and game, as well as fresh seafood - he creates gastronomical delicacies that are sure to make your palate sing. Impeccable service and an impressive wine list round out your dining experience beautifully. www.thehermitagehotel.com e
Anna Cavaliere, Editor/Writer Editor/Writer since 1992 for Enoteca Wine & Food Magazine (now Elite Wine, Food & Travel), Anna has reported on wine and food events from many of the world’s wine regions: Australia, New Zealand, Portugal, France, Spain, Malta, Greece, Italy, U.S. and Canada. A member of the International Federation of Wine and Spirits Journalists and Writers (F.I.J.E.V.), and I.F.W.T.W.A. (International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association). Anna feels particularly fortunate that she can write about her three passions: wine, food, and travel. Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 22 w i n e DISCOVERING ISRAELI WINES IsraWineXpo The 3rd International Wine Exhibition Article and photos by W.C. Enoteca
Tel Aviv as seen from Jaffa
The word conjures up childhood Levant date back to 8000 B.C., with the first recorded Israel.images of the Holy Land and movies vineyard planted by Noah in 2000 B.C. I had seen showing dessert-like terrains. My first Israel’s wine industry further evolved thanks to a three- and recent trip to this impressive country showed me fold revolution which began with the founding of the another side altogether. As the plane landed in Tel modern Israel wine industry when Baron Edmond de Aviv I marveled at the surrounding greenery. In fact, I Rotschild, owner of Chateau Lafite founded Carmel was told that such verdant and fertile lands extend for Winery in 1882. The second phase ‘the quality hundreds of kms. north of the city. revolution’ was led by Golan Heights Winery, founded Although I was eager to see and learn more about in 1983, that applied the newest technology both in this fascinating country, the primary reason for my the vineyards and winemaking sectors. The third took visit was to attend IsraWinexpo 2010 and familiarize place in the 1990s, when the country’s wine market myself with Israeli wines. came of age with an eruption of boutique wineries, wine imports and stores that also led to ‘wine tourism’. Winemaking in Israel Israel devotes about 12,350 acres to vineyards, the Israeli winemaking began in the triangle that soils for which can range from volcanic in the north, encompasses the Black Sea, the Caspian Sea and the Terra Rossa on the coast, chalk and limestone on the Sea of Galillee. In fact, the oldest grape pips found in hills and sandy/clay in the south. Such soil conditions,
23 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 coupled with a mainly Mediterranean climate that involves Emerald Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Semillon, long, hot dry summers and short wet winters (with semi arid Muscat Canelli and Muscat of Alexandria. and desert conditions in the Neveg), result in distinctive and The Kosher Story often quality wines. The world kosher means “pure”. Israel is, The traditional Carignan and French Colombard varieties without a doubt, the finest producer of kosher have largely been replaced with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, wines in the world. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that today are used in the production of quality wines. In addition, table wines utilize other Although many of the larger wineries produce varieties such as Shiraz/Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Petite Syrah, kosher wines, it cannot be assumed that all Argaman, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Barbera, Israeli wines are kosher. Nor should the word Zinfandel, Pinotage, Gewurztraminer, Viognier, White Riesling, be confused with the sweet sacramental wines which in the past have given all ‘kosher’ wines a bad rap. Quality Israeli wines ‘that happen to be kosher’ are made in exactly the same way as non- kosher wine. However, at the winery both the wine and winery equipment may only be touched by orthodox Jews. As well, only kosher substances such as yeasts, fining agents, etc. may be used in the process. There are also Biblical agricultural laws for kosher wines in Israel. However, none of such rules impact on the wine’s quality. Many of Israeli wines have received high scores and been awarded medals in competitions. The fact that the wine is also kosher is just incidental. It might make sense to establish a ‘designation’ to their quality wines, which can be recognized worldwide.
ISRAWINEXPO 2010 Inside the pavilion Held in Tel Aviv, this biennial trade provides an opportunity for producers to bring greater Carmel Winery booth awareness of their wines to local and international visitors. Included were side trips to randomly selected wineries for a more ‘up close and personal’ encounter with the winemakers. Our first introduction to Israeli wines began at Cordilia Restaurant in Jaffa with a delectable dinner that was accompanied by a number of wines from a variety of producers. What follows are just a few of the wines that we sampled during our meal as well as those sampled during visits at individual wineries.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 24 Adir This winery was founded in the nineties by the Ashkenazi and Rosenberg families who began by selling their grapes to other wineries. When they decided to produce their own wines a few years ago, state-of-the-art equipment was purchased and some stimulating wines are now available on the market. Approximately 10,000 bottles are produced each year mainly using the Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz varietals. At the winery we sampled the Plato 2005, created with 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Shiraz, offers a profusion of black fruits and good tannins that will make further cellaring possible. The Shiraz Kerem Ben Zimra 2008, made with 100% Shiraz delights the senses with its dark hues and concentrated fruity bouquet. Drinkable now, the wealth of tannins will allow the wine to improve within the next 3-5 years. The visitor’s Adir Wines and Cheeses centre is ready to welcome you and, should you visit, be sure to sample the cheeses that are churned out by this winery.
Avidan Winery Tsina Avidan, an architect who is passionate about wine, not only manages this small family winery but is also its winemaker. Situated at Kibbutz Eyal, on the other side of Kfar Saba the winery, this winery, established in 2000, now has an annual production of 30,000 bottles among three main labels: Fringe, Blend des Noirs and Reserve. Grapes, sourced from the Judean Foothills and Hills, produce premium Mediterranean- Entrance to Adir Winery style wines that have been awarded medals in both Israeli and international wine competitions. We sampled the distinctive Avidan 2007 Grenache Premium, composed of 85% Black Grenache (Carignan), 10% Tempranillo and 5% Petite Syrah.
25 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Tasting at Barkan Winery Barkan As the country’s second largest winery, Barkan’s diversified portfolio runs the gamut from best-selling and affordable to high-end and superior wines. In all cases, the consumer is assured of getting top value for their money. This winery’s logo states “Artisans of Red Wine” and the Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon Altitude Reserve +412 2006 is a true expression of its terroir. To create this complex wine each vineyard is harvested, fermented and aged separately in the barrel. Only when maturity is achieved are the lots blended together to create the Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Barkan Vineyards
Segal Wines With its motto of “Making Wine Differently”, this winery has been producing wine in Israel for over 100 years. In fact, this winery was the first to plant vineyards in the Upper Galilee region. It merged with Barkan Wine Cellars in 2001 and, since then, winemaker Avi Feldstein retains winemaking autonomy to fashion tasteful wines that reflect originality and style. Export markets such as Canada and Poland are the beneficiaries of these wines. The Rehasim Dishon Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, with grapes sourced from the Dishon vineyard Dalton Winery products comprised of alluvial clay combined with gravel and limestone, is an outstanding example of his success. Aged in mainly new French oak barrels for 20 months, the lots are blended in tanks for an additional five months. The wine gifts the taste buds with an elegantly balanced structure and complexity that is magical.
Dalton Winery When it was established in 1995, this winery became one of the first located in the Upper Galilee region, five kilometres from the Lebanese border, this small family-owned
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 26 winery prides itself in producing quality wines with such varietals as Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz, Barbera, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc. The delightful Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2008 rewarded the palate with remarkable citrus and tropical fruit notes and a pleasing and lingering finish. At the winery we sampled Matatia 2006, made with 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The dark purple hue foretells of the rich flavours reminiscent of fruits of the forest that are enhanced with hints of tobacco and licorice. This full-bodied wine has great structure and balance, and has wonderful aging potential (sells for $100.00). Everyone is welcome to take guided tours of the winery and, thanks to its proximity to attractions that are important in terms of religion and history, this picturesque region has now become a popular tourist destination. www. dalton-winery.com.
Ella Valley Vineyards From the Judean hills one goes through the Land of the Bible to reach Ella Ella’s olive oil Valley. In ancient times the area was recognized for its grape growing and wine making. It is also the birthplace of the biblical hero Samson as well as the spot where the famous battle between David and Goliath took place. The Ella Valley Vineyards plants varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir, Petite Syrah and Syrah to produce its red wines. Approximately about 200,000 bottles of premium wines are produced annually, with around 40% diffused to international markets
27 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Towards the Golan Heights
each year, an extraordinary amount in the Israeli wine industry. The RR VC (Vintners Choice) 2004 Tasting at Golan Heights Winery made with 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon is a fine example of what winemaker Doron Rav Hon wishes to accomplish. www.ellavalley.com. Also of interest is their own production of premium olive oil. Golan Heights Winery Located in the town of Katzrin, in the central Golan, this winery that is blessed with ideal soil, topography and climate conditions is positioned to create exceptional wines. In fact, it has been instrumental in developing new varieties and in influencing and promoting Israel’s wine culture. TheYarden “HeightsWine” 2007, made with 100% Gewurztraminer, delivers a powerfully intense flavour and displays good structure and acidity. Reminiscent of Icewine, it will pair beautifully with rich desserts but my personal preference
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 28 would be with gorgonzola cheese. I was equally for producing unique and original wines. Grape impressed with the variety and quality of its wine varieties include Carignan, Viognier, Gewurztraminer, when we visited the winery where most notable was Cabernet Franc, Johannesburg Riesling, Petite the 2004 Yarden Merlot. Proffering light tannins, it Syrah and Pinot Noir. Sourcing these grapes from is ready to be enjoyed yet can cellar for a few more select vineyards from around the country, the years. Not surprisingly, the winery has garnered winery produces superior wines of distinction. The numerous medals at international wine competitions. 2007 Israeli Journey, Vitkin Carignan, is made with www.golanwines.co.il. 95% Carigan, and 5% Grenache Noir from several old vineyards in the Binyamina & Zichron Yaackov Tzora Vineyards, founded in 1993 by the late Ronnie Regions. Having undergone malolactic fermentation James, was one of the first to plant vineyards in the and aging in French oak barrels, the wine exhibits Judean Hills, an area that has been associated with an inky colour and rewards the palate with a full and winemaking since biblical times. The wines produced earthy mouthfeel of prunes and blackberry. It can on their three vineyards (Giv’at Hachalukim, Shoresh develop further in the bottle for another 4-6 years. and Neve Ilan), come from grapes grown on man- www.vitkin-winery.co.il. made terraces that rise from the coastal plain. The soils can vary from rocky Limestone outcrops to those As a first experience, I was very impressed with the rich in minerals. Winemaker Eran Pick, who joined overall quality of the wines although the accompanying the team in 2006, creates well-rounded wines that price tag might make them beyond the reach of many have aging potential. The terror-driven OR Shoresh consumers. The establishment of, and promotion of a Dessert wine is made from Gewurztraminer grapes ‘wine route’, similar to those in other wine-producing grown on the highest plot of Shoresh Vineyard and countries, might appeal to wine aficionados and tie has a limited production of 1625 bottles. Intensely in tourism with the ever-developing wine industry in fragrant it pleases the palate with delightful tropical Israel. fruit and mineral tones, and will make a great addition Thanks to a colleague, Michael Ben-Joseph WM, who to your cellar. www.tzoravineyards.com. was kind enough to squire me around, I discovered the vibrant and modern Tel Aviv and the neighbouring city of Jaffa. I hope to return soon, so that I can uncover Vitkin Winery even more fascinating facets of this extraordinary Established in 2001 by Doron and Sharona Paz- country. Shalom! e Belogolovsky and Oenologist/Bordeaux graduate Asaf Paz, this winery has already earned a reputation Tasting at Golan Heights Winery
29 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 t r a v e l Israel’sSights
Sunset over Jerusalem
JERUSALEM Walls of Jerusalem As Israel’s capital, Jerusalem is situated in the Judean Mountains between the Mediterranean Sea and the northern edge of the Dead Sea. With a population of some 764,000 residents within an area of 125.1 km2 that includes east Jerusalem, the city is also the largest in the country. Dating back to the 4th millennium BCE, it is one of the oldest cities in the world and has withstood numerous attacks and besiegement. It is also the holiest city in Judaism, a holy city in Christianity, and the third holiest city in Islam. Notwithstanding its area of only 0.9 km2, the Old City is home to key religious sites that include the Western Wall, Temple Mount, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Dome of the Rock and the al-Aqsa Mosque.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 30 An important Jewish religious site located in the Old City of Jerusalem, The Western Wall The Western (Wailing) Wall (also known as the Wailing Wall) is the only remaining structure of the ancient Temple of Jerusalem. Approximately over half the wall, including its 17 courses below street level, dates back to 19 BCE constructed by Herod the Great. The remaining layers were added from the 7th century onwards and today the above ground portion extends 1,600 feet, most of which is hidden behind residential structures built along its length. A mechitza (partition) is used to separate men and women, believed to preserve modesty. It is common to see many Jews who come from around the world write prayers and messages on paper and stick them between the cracks. If you plan to visit, be prepared for security check and remember to act in a reverent manner. Show respect by dressing
Market Shopping 31 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Modern Tel Aviv
properly (no shorts or tank shows), and note that no Streets in Jaffa pictures can be taken starting Friday at sunset until Saturday night. The wall is a no-smoking zone. Many bargains can be had at bazaar-lie markets within the old city walls. Other shopping is, of course, available at modern sites such as the popular Kenion (Jerusalem) Shopping Mall. Though not large, it does boast over 250 shops and restaurants not located elsewhere in the city. Free parking is available, but try to avoid Saturday night when there might be a Beitar Jerusalem football match at the adjacent Teddy Kollek Stadium.
Jaffa This old Palestinian port city, now part of Tel Aviv, has existed since some 4,000 years ago. Named Jaffa (meaning beautiful) by the Canaanites, the Christian legend tells us that it was named after Noah’s son – Yefet – who built it after the Great Flood. Today, out of a total of approximately 35,000 residents, 25,000 are Palestinian Arabs. Tourists can visit the old fishing harbor, modern boat docks, and the tourism centre. Plans are currently underway to beautify and modernize the port area,
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 32 and expanding the boardwalk along the sea from Bat was largely Arab at the time, Tel Aviv’s growth soon Yam to Tel Aviv. Light rail that will go from Bat Yam to outpaced Jaffa. Tel Aviv’s “White City”, designated in Petach Tikvah, and throughout the Gush Dan territory, 2003 as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, comprises is also being constructed. the world’s largest concentration of Modernist-style buildings. The municipality of Tel Aviv-Jaffa is currently working to beautify and modernize the port area, and are Like New York City, it has earned a reputation as a “city expanding the boardwalk along the sea from Bat that never sleeps” with its 24-hour culture. A popular Yam to Tel Aviv. They are also constructing a light rail tourist destination for both local and international that will travel from Bat Yam to Petach Tikvah and visitors alike, it offers beaches, bars, restaurants, throughout the Gush Dan territory. cafes, upscale shopping and great weather all encompassed by a cosmopolitan lifestyle. The Middle East’s second biggest city economy, Tel Tel Aviv Aviv is ranked 42nd among global cities by Foreign With a land mass of 51.4 sq. km. is located on the Policy’s 2008 Global Cities Index, it is also reputed to Israeli Mediterranean coastline, and as of 2008 be the region’s most expensive city and the 17th most home to 3.2 million residents. Originally built on expensive city in the world. e the outskirts of the ancient port city of Jaffa, which
33 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 f o o d
Rockfish -Sustainable Food
PAN SEARED ROCKFISH SURRYANO HAM AND SWEET POTATO HASH ACCOMPANIED BY FRESH ARUGULA WITH A CHERRY TOMATO COULIS
1 8oz filet of striped bass (rockfish) 3.Heat up sauté pan with a little oil and render down 2 oz. ¼ inch diced Surryano ham the ham, add onions and sauté them until translucent. Add sweet potatoes and cook on low-medium heat until 1 oz. ¼ inch diced yellow onions potatoes are fully cooked. Keep warm. 3 oz. ¼ inch diced sweet potato 4.While finishing your sweet potatoes, pan-sear rockfish 2.5 oz. fresh arugula on one side, turn over and place in oven until cooked to 4 oz. cherry tomato desired doneness. truffle oil to toss with arugula 5.Place sweet potato hash on plate. Arrange the fish on plate. 1.Blend cherry tomatoes whole in a blender adding 6.Toss arugula with nice truffle oil and season with salt salt, pepper, sugar to taste. and pepper. Arrange on top of fish as garnish or use it 2.Season rockfish with salt and pepper. Set aside. as a vegetable. e
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 34 w i n e WineBuys Article by Barbara D. Ritchie Photos by Barbara and Margot Ritchie
Ontario Wine Awards – Featured Wines offers a refreshing palate of lemon, ripe pear and melon flavours. Five Rows Craft Wine Lowrey Vineyards Pinot Gris 2008 (13.3%; $25.00; St. David’s Bench) While you are enjoying the long, hot summer days, is from a family run grape growing operation in its why not savour some of the best local wines judged by fifth generation. Howard and his wife Wilma manage at the annual Ontario Wine Awards, launched in 1995 the vineyards. Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin, by fellow wine writer Tony Aspler. A ‘Sip and Savour persuaded them to replant five rows in the 35 acre Ontario’ program features these wines at various vineyard and make their own wine. This resulted in the vineyards and restaurants across Ontario. ‘Five Rows’ line, which their son and winemaker Wes Calamus Pinot Gris 2008 (12.2%;$15.20; 2010 hand crafts. The French oak influence and stirring on Bronze; Jordan) is an excellent example of this the lees softens its forward flavours of star fruit, green varietal which has become the signature grape for apple, citrus and melon. Sue-Ann Staff Estate Pinot Calamus. Unoaked, this pale lemon wine has light Grigio 2008 (11.5%; $18.00; Jordan) is a perfect patio honeyed notes, with apricot, peach and touches of wine, with lemon zest, almond notes and hints of grapefruit. Coyote’s Run Estate Red Paw Vineyard smoke which, as Sue-Ann explains, comes from the Pinot Gris 2009 (12.5%; $17.95; #116582; St. David’s clay component in the soil. Bench) is pale coloured, showing tropical flavours of Chateau des Charmes Estate Bottled Sauvignon melon and peach, with grapefruit, mineral and spice Gris 2008 (12.5%; $19.95; 2009 Silver; Niagara-on- undertones. Fielding Estate Rock Pile Pinot Gris the-Lake) is crisp and clean, with a vibrant lime peel, 2009 (13.0%; $25.95; Beamsville) is a lovely summer grapefruit, pear and pronounced gooseberry character. sipper. Pale lemon in colour, this bright, off-dry wine
OWA-Red wine of the year 2010 – OWA-White wine of the year 2010 – Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007 Huff Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 Photos by Stephen Elphick 35 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 As yet, this is the only Canadian winery to plant this ripe pears, apples and citrus flavours come through varietal, making it a unique taste experience. in the persistent finish. Peller Estates Andrew Pellar Signature Series ‘Sur Lie’ Chardonnay 2008 Flat Rock Cellars Chardonnay Reserve 2007 (13.5%; $30.00; 2010 Bronze) was barrel fermented, (13.0%; $35.00; 2010 Silver; Jordan) was aged in left sur lie for 12 months and aged in French oak to French oak barrels, 30% of which were new, and for a give it a creamy mouthfeel, with buttery, toasty notes further 10 months in older French barrels treated with a adding to the lemon and pear flavours. medium toast. The result is an impressive integration Rosewood (14.0%; of oak, with full sweet vanilla and toast complementing Estates Unoaked Chardonnay 2008 $18.00; 2010 Silver; Beamsville) is medium lemon the ripe citrus flavours. Henry of Pelham Speck yellow. Fifty percent of this wine underwent malolactic Family Reserve Chardonnay 2007 (14.0%; $35.00; fermentation to give it a softer, creamier aspect that #616433; St. Catharines) is from a winery owned and balances out its intrinsic bright citrus, green apple operated by the three Speck brothers, Paul, Matthew character. and Daniel, since 1988. This lush wine shows ripe Vineland Estates Chardonnay Unoaked (12.0%; $12.85; #669374; Vineland) is a crisp, pear and lemon flavours, with a buttery, creamy 2008 clean wine with a good acidic core underpinning green palate dusted with vanilla, toast and spuce. Huff apple and peach flavours. Estates South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay 2007 (13.0%; $29.95; 2010 Gold; White Wine of the Year Tawse Chardonnay Musque 2009 (12.5%; $21.95; Award; Bloomfield, PEC) will gain complexity with 2010 Gold; Vineland) is pale lemon yellow in colour. cellaring. Brimming with ripe stone fruit, it was aged Slightly off-dry, it offers juicy ripe pear, passion fruit in French oak for 18 months yielding complex notes and melon flavours and nuances of honeysuckle as of brioche, almonds, vanilla cream, baking spices and is typical of this delightful Chardonnay clone. The caramel. Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Chardonnay balancing acidity gives it a fresh lively finish. 2008 (12.5%; $30.00; Niagara-on-the-Lake) offers Rosewood Estates Winery Semillon 2008 (13.0%; forward flavours of peach, pear and apple, with a $18.00; #177758; 2010 Bronze; Beamsville) lovely oak component on the broad palate. Lailey underwent an extended fermentation of two weeks. (12.5%; Vineyard Old Vines Chardonnay 2008 Winemaker Natalie Spytkowsky feels that low heat, $40.00) comes from vines planted in 1978. Sweet
Vineyard bridge – Rosewood Estates Winery Photo by Rosewood
e
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 36 and the resulting slow fermentation draws out the Merlot 2008 (13.0%; $20.00) is medium purple fruit flavours of white peach and ripe melon, and hint coloured, with sweet Damson plum and forest berry of gooseberry that characterizes this varietal when flavours. Red licorice, toast and coffee bean notes grown in a cool climate. give it added complexity. Southbrook Vineyards “Fresh” White 2009 (9.7% Calamus Cabernet Franc 2007 (12.2%; $18.20; $16.95; 2010 Silver; Niagara-on-the-Lake) is hand 2010 Silver; Jordan) is a dark coloured wine with crafted by winemaker Ann Sperling, who observes intense flavours of sweet juicy cherries and plums, strict biodynamic and organic practices in the vineyard framed with cedar and spice notes. Vineland Estates and winery. Made from early-harvested grapes that Cabernet Franc Reserve 2007 (13%; $40.00; 2010 were whole cluster pressed, this 100% Vidal wine is Gold; Red Wine of the Year Award;Vineland) is cherry highly perfumed, with scents of white peach, orange plum purple in colour. The forward bouquet of ripe and apple blossoms, and baking spices that carry dark plums, blueberries, cedar, tobacco and toast through onto the luscious palate. reappear on the full bodied palate. Soft tannins and anise notes play out on the lingering, complex finish. Coyote’s Run Estate Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 (12.0%; $24.95; #79228; St. David’s Bench) Creekside Estate Broken Press Shiraz 2007 is medium plum coloured. Its delicate and aromatic (12.5%; $39.95; 2010 Silver; Jordan) has 4% Viognier character is typical of wines from this vineyard, in in the blend to mellow out the tannins and add ripe fruit contrast to the earthier and darker fruit character of notes, as is typical of many Australian Shiraz wines. the Black Paw Vineyard wines. It has raspberry and Intense cherry and cranberry flavours are intermingled white cherry flavours, with spice and subtle toasty with black pepper notes. Lailey Vineyard Syrah notes. Five Rows Craft Wine Lowrey Vineyards 2008 (12.5%; $27.00; Niagara-on-the-Lake) has a Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5%; $50.00; St. David’s Bench) high acid note, with sweet ripe cherries, overtones of is made with the same varietal that makes up the cedar, mocha and pepper, and a toasty finish. majority of this boutique winery’s production. Juicy Hillebrand Winery’s Senior Winemaker, Darryl Brooker and spicy, it has floral aromas, cherry, raspberry and won the coveted 2010 Winemaker of the Year award strawberry flavours and a slight earthy character, with where he has spent several years at working on the hints of tobacco. Flat Rock Pinot Noir Reserve 2007 Trius brand. Born in Canberra, Australia, he has (12.8%; $45.00; Jordan) is an intriguing wine with sweet travelled extensively to gain experience in different ripe cherries, streaks of terroir and moderate tannins. climatic winegrowing conditions. His preference for Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir cool climate oenology drew hin to Ontario’s Niagara (13.5%; $40.00; #657874; St. Catharines) is a 2007 region just over a decade ago, where he spent two fruit driven wine, with ripe fruit cherries and streaks of harvests at Flat Rock Cellars before joining Hillebrand. earth in the finish. Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Pinot With a passion for creating world class red wines, he (12.5%; $35.00 Niagara-on-the-Lake) Noir 2008 has recently started to work with B.C.’s Cedar Creek has a high acid backbone, with juicy cherry and red Winery in the Okanagan Valley. currant flavours finishing with good minerality.Lailey Vineyard Niagara Peninsula Pinot Noir 2008 (13.0%; For more information and to see a full list of winning $25.00; Niagara-on-the-Lake) is garnet coloured, with wines visit www.ontariowineawards.ca. e up front plum, red currant and pomegranate flavours, finishing with an herbal and earthy aspect. Lailey Vineyard Old Vines Pinot Noir (12.5%; $45.00) is a wine of medium depth, with a dusty palate of cherry, Barbara Ritchie is a wine writer and lecturer. Having travelled extensively throughout the plum, mocha, cedar and earth. Lailey’s winemaker, main wine-growing regions of the world with Derek Barnett, makes his wines in a delicate style, her twin sister Ann, she regularly conducts with deft use of oak. wine seminars for major corporations and restaurant groups, while also participating Creekside Estate Reserve Merlot 2006 (13.0%; in various wine judging panels worldwide, including Intervin. Her judging experience includes a session $34.95; 2010 Silver; Jordan) is a well made inky wine. at Italy’s prestigious “Banco d’Assaggio”, held each year at Aged for 34 months in oak, it has ripe dark berry and Lungarotti’s Le Tre Vaselle in Umbria, to assess wines fro m plum fruit, with cedar notes. Rosewood Estates t h roughout Italy.
37 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 t r a v e l Louisiana’s Outback: ART & SOUL FOOD IN LAKE CHARLES Article and photos by Anna Cavaliere
Pintail Wildlife Drive
Louisiana food is unique. But, unlike other local cuisine, Louisiana foods can be found on every menu in the country. We discovered just how diverse and tempting the fare is in Calcasieu Parish (Lake Charles) situated in southwest Louisiana, also known as “Louisiana’s Outback”.
Sylvia’s Bistro/Happy Hippy This establishment is best known for their multi- variety brick-oven pizzas, as well as make-your-own creations and fresh salads. Upbeat and contemporary, with live music played every night of the week, this locale is a lively spot for your nighttime entertainment.
Le Truffe Sauvage restaurant Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 38 Le Truffe Sauvage Philippe & Vincent Jaboulet. A marvellous creation of 815 Bayou Pines West 337 439-8364 South Texas Antelope Loin with pomme croquette, asparagus tips, celery root au gratin, roasted shallot Opened in October 1998 by Chef Mohamed and bordelaise was all the more relished with a glass Louisiana’s Outback: Arthur Durham, this restaurant is a must visit for of the iconic Australian shiraz wine, 1996 Penfold’s those who appreciate fine dining at its best. You can Grange, Southern Australia. A goat cheese tart ART & SOUL FOOD IN LAKE CHARLES expect freshly prepared dishes, made only with the with baby arugula, spinach, herbed cracker, walnut finest ingredients, along with friendly and professional vinaigrette was savoured with the highly acidic and service. very dry 2006 Riesling, Robert Weil, Rheingau. We Our own seven-course wine dinner began with somehow made room for a decadent dessert of Triple tantalizing hors d’oeuvres served with N.V. Charles Chocolate Hazelnut Cake with passion fruit Bavarian, Heidsieck, Brut Reserve, the ambassador of and caramel sauce topped off with a glass of 1995 champagne in the U.S. and the first introduced in Vintage Port, Croft, Quinta da Roeda. Louisiana. There followed Colossal Lump Crabmeat Note: the restaurant is happy to accommodate any with Potato Gnocchi leek and vermouth, shaved vegetarian or vegan requests with Chef’s creation. Parmigiano Reggiano that was accompanied with a For more information, go to www.thewildtruffle.com. 2006 Macon-Verze, Domaines Leflaive. A fabulous Pan seared natural sea scallop over spanakopita, The popular Hackett’s Cajun Kitchen lemon vinaigrette, micro greens and tomato tartar that was paired with an elegant 2007 Sancerre, Michele Redd that rewarded our palate with a refreshingly clean and lingering finish. An exquisite Partridge and black currant half moon ravioli truffled oxtail consommé was coupled with a 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella, Fabiano, while the Pan Roasted Red Snapper wrapped in Crispy Potato with braised leek and petite syrah sauce married wonderfully with a spicy yet mellow 2006 Crozes Hermitage,
Hackett’s Cajun Kitchen
5614 Gerstner Memorial Dr. 337 905-3013 For a unique experience, and to get your fill of Boudin, smoked sausages and meats, go to this mom and pop shop that is so very popular with the locals. You can even take home specialty items (sold by the bag, gallon or pound) such as Hackett’s seasoning, deer sausages, cracklins, hog cheese and lard, and varying cuts of beef. The menu changes daily, so you can visit as often as you like! www.hackettscajunkitchen.com.
39 Triple • Issue Chocolate 2 • Elite Hazelnut 2010 Cake at Le Truffe Sauvage Restaurant The grounds of the Rouge et Blanc Wine Festival Rouge et Blanc Wine Festival This sold-out premier festival is held each year on the grounds of Historic 1911 City Hall in Lake Charles. With a $75 admission tickets, guests can enjoy the multitude of food and drink items on offer at this popular affair. Rick & Donna Richard, considered the city’s shakers and movers, are key players in this event and other activities for the area. They have undertaken the establishment of a farmer’s market in Lake Calcasieu. As well, they purchased the impressive three-storey Marine National Bank which is being restored using much of the original material. It is currently being used for special functions and weddings, event and other activities for the area. They have undertaken the establishment of a farmer’s market in Lake Calcasieu. As well, they purchased the impressive three-storey Marine National Bank which is being restored using much of the original material. It is currently being used for special functions and weddings. Philanthropists Rick & Donna Richard Brown’s Neighborhood Market 10051 Gulf Hwy. 337 905-3013 This Grand Lake landmark, a locally- owned grocery store, carries a complete stock of local products. Mark Brown greeted us with a shrimp salad and my first introduction to Boudin (a concoction of pork, liver and rice that is then rolled in flour). Although superior in quality, Louisiana’s shrimp industry is suffering with the influx of the cheaper Chinese shrimp. Not only can you purchase authentic ‘take away’ items, but you can find many ingredients, sauces and spices not available elsewhere. This is a fun place for you to browse and shop for the unusual.
Mark Brown shows Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 40 off his creations Rice – the process Farmer’s Rice Mill Rice is a vital staple in Louisiana dishes, and we visited the only rice mill in Lake Charles. Operating since 1917, this family- run operation processes 24,000 hundred- weight long-grain rice strictly destined to export markets such as Mexico, the Caribbean and middle eastern countries. The U.S. accounts for only 1.5% of the world’s rice production, of which 51% of that which is grown is exported. Employing approximately 70 employees, the company can mill in one day what farmers grow on 400 acres! The green concept is alive Chef Scott Landry and well at this mill, applying little if any pesticides or insecticides to the crop. As well, they use the hull to produce alternate energy that runs the co-generator. Rice is the grain least susceptible to the vagaries of the weather, such as hurricanes and winds. There is no shelf life to speak of for rice, although the fresher the better.
Seafood Palace 2218 Enterprise Blvd. 337 433-9293 An accomplished caterer, Chef Scott Landry, now gives lessons on making Roux and has given demonstrations (performance is a better word to describe it) in 40 states and seven foreign countries. His secret is the use of the “Trinity of Ingredients”: celery, bell pepper, onion. While the Creole Style Gumbo is thickened A platter of goodies to with okra, the Cajun style is thickened with strike your fancy
Roux. At the Seafood Palace one can choose from Boudin to pistolettes of crab/ shrimp/crawfish, crab claws, Po-Boy, and of course the gumbo along with various salads. We ordered different items and proceeded to taste everything from each other’s plate. Is there any other way?
41 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Delicious Donuts – World Famous Mardi Gras King Cake 2283 Country Club Road 337 479-2986 King Cakes are eaten by everyone in the area, regardless of religion. The cake’s oval/round shape depicts the circle of life and decorations incorporate the Mardi Gras colours of purple, yellow and green. We decorated our very own cake, with the help of the owner of Delicious Donuts. The cake weighs between 4-6 pounds (enough to feed a class of 22 kids, unlike the store-bought variety that feeds eight) and costs around $20.00. The company has been in business for 16 years and, as well as making donuts, produces between 2,000-6,000 cakes each year during Mardi Gras that can be shipped world wide. King Cakes can be ordered for special occasions throughout the year. Tradition has it that if Cake fit for a king you get the ‘baby in the cake’ in your slice you will have good luck for the rest of the year. So, watch out for the baby! www.deliciouskingcakes.com.
“Everything is different in Louisiana. Come as you are and leave different”
This slogan is indicative of what you can expect to experience in Lake Charles. Not only will you savour some magnificent dishes, but you will come in contact with the excitement of some of this state’s culture and traditions.
L’Auberge du Lac Casino Resort 777 Avenue L’Auberge 1-866-580-7444 The epitome of luxurious accommodations, this 26 storey casino resort provides discriminating travelers with all desired amenities, and then some. Located a mere two hours from Houston, it offers the finest hospitality along with Vegas-style gaming. Situated on 242 acres, the immaculate
L’Auberge du Lac Casino Resort Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 42 grounds claim your attention and appeal to your senses. The heated pool and lazy river, that gives access to the swim-up bar where you can quench your thirst with a frozen cocktail, are ensconced in a tropical paradise setting. The adults-only pool provides a tranquil environment along with luxury cabanas and full bar service. A wide selection of dining options, including the Jack Daniel’s Bar r & Grill will satisfy your taste buds. In deference to your sweet tooth, try a tasty gelato or homemade pastries and gourmet coffees at Desserts. Looking for that special outfit, then for a complete shopping experience call in at the hotel’s stylish boutiques. The Contraband Bayou Golf Club, designed by Tom Fazio, incorporates all the features of the natural Louisiana environment. Beverage Pool Area and meandering river cart service of sandwiches, cool drinks and snacks completes your experience on this par- 71 championship 18-hole golf course. This hotel is the perfect location from which to visit all points of interest. www.ldlcasino.com 337 395-7777
Imperial Calcasieu Museum 204 West Sallier Street 337 439-3797 Established in 1963, the museum serves the five parishes of Allen, Beauregard, Calcasieu, Cameron and Jeff Davis originally known as the Imperial Calcasieu region. As a leading educational and cultural resource for the community, the museum organizes activities that not only preserve the region’s unique history but also to exhibit and support the visual arts. Included among the memorabilia is an authentic letter of marque given to a pirate by France’s King Louis XVI. With about 67 rotating exhibits each year, all items in the museum have been donated, a testament to its importance to the community and beyond. When leaving the museum, it is traditional to go across the street to Joe’s Party House to try their cupcakes…. a sweet way to end your visit! 150-year-old “Surprise” doll basket, www.imperialcalcaseiumuseum.org. made from pine straw and raffia - Imperial Calcasieu Museum 43 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Vegetation en route Cameron Prairie National Wildlife Refuge Wildlife such as geese, ducks, white-tail deer and other migratory species can be seen throughout the year along with nutria and alligators. Traditionally, thousands of ducks and geese fly to the marshes yearly. The Visitor Centre features exhibits and animated/talking mannequins that allow visitors to learn about the history and wildlife of Southwest Louisiana. There are 200,000 acres that are dedicated to bird watching, hiking, fishing, and hunting. Programmes, seminars and workshops are available throughout the year on a variety of topics. In order to visit the refuge, you must purchase a Wild Louisiana Stamp or a Louisiana basic fishing license, available anywhere hunting licenses are sold.
Mardi Gras Museum of Tranquil vantage point at Visitor Centre Imperial Calcasieu 204 West Sallier (337) 439-3797 In this six-room museum, you can immerse yourself in the history of Mardi Gras and take in the 300 costumes, the largest costume display in the world. The costumes, paid by individuals and ranging in cost between $700 and $10,000, are on loan to the museum. The displays highlight the history and personalities of the Mardi Gras, the Captain’s Den, and intricacies of costume designing and completion (including ballroom costumes), all of which can take three years in the making. The Captain writes the script, selects the music, and designs the costume. There is a Royal Ball the Creole Nature Trail night before Mardi Gras which is open to everyone All-American Road to see the royal krewes. Tickets sold can vary in price according to level of participation. This more than 180-mile route is home to birds, waterfowl and alligators. For a self-guided tour go to www.creolenaturetrail.org where you can Historic District Tour obtain a driving map for your GPS, learn about a special section for children, and the wetland area For an overview of Lake Charles and its that is perfect for walking. Controlled hunting of surrounding areas, a bus tour is just the ticket. A. waterfowl and fishing is managed by the National Bourdier, our guide, was a veritable encyclopedia Wildlife Refuge, which was rebuilt in 2005 after as he shared his knowledge of and enthusiasm for Hurricane Rita. this intriguing part of the country. North Beach, the only one in Lake Charles, lies west of the Mississippi River and became part of Louisiana in
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 44 Krewe of Illusions, The Late Captain 1819 (although not part of the 1803 Louisiana David O’Quinn Purchase). Known for its cattle and lumber, it was called “Prairie country” and at one time held an unsavory reputation. At one time, there numbered 29 major lumber mills and, in the 1800s, an advertising campaign proclaimed it the “New Garden of Eden” because of its virgin pine trees that extended for miles. The 300,000 acres quickly sported mere stumps after the trees were cut down but, luckily, are now reforested. Around 1.5 million acres in the Lake Charles area were bought by the Watkins family who hailed from the U.K. Rice became the major crop. Today, the 46 blocks of the Charpentier (Carpenter) District comprise 260 dwellings that were constructed between 1889 and 1910, most of which were destroyed by fire. Live oaks, planted on Arbor Day in 1915, are visible along the streets. Although at one time the bylaws allowed nothing more than 12 storey structures, now the Capital One building boasts 23.
The Boudin Story A mixture of culinary traditions from Cajun, Germany and Creole blend together to create one of Southwestern Louisiana’s most delicious snacks, the boudin. Pronounced “boodan” or “boodeh”, it is a type of sausage made with varying amounts of pork meat, liver, rice, onions, parsley and dry seasonings. Greeters and revelers Recipes and ingredients vary between boudin makers leaving consumers with a variety of styles to try such as Crawfish, Smoked and even Alligator boudin. A favourite among Boudin anyone? finger food lovers, boudin can be purchased at mom and pop meat markets and grocery stores throughout Southwest Louisiana along Interstate 10 and Highway 90. Boudin is pre- cooked but should be thoroughly heated before serving. In addition to the experience of eating a boudin, meeting the boudin masters who work daily in their stores can be an interesting encounter for consumers, as they are happy to carry out a conversation about their product. www.visitlakecharles.org.
45 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 f o o d These Southwestern Louisiana recipes are kindly provided by Briant Smith, Lake Charles Louisiana
BLUE DUCK REMOULADE BLUE DUCK CREAMY MUSHROOM & © 2006 Briant Smith OYSTER STEW © 2007 Briant Smith
¼ c finely chopped celery ¼ c finely chopped onion 1 ½ doz. Fresh oysters* - drained ¼ c finely sliced green onions 1/3 c flour 1 T minced garlic 1 bunch green onions, finely chopped 1 qt. (16 oz.) Hellman’s mayonnaise ½ can cream of mushroom soup 2 T Frank’s hot sauce 2 T shallots, finely chopped 1 T French’s yellow mustard ½ stick butter 1 T honey 2 C whole milk 1 T lemon juice 2 t fresh parsley, finely chopped 1 T Worcestershire sauce 2 t hot sauce 1 t salt Pernod or Herbsaint to taste 1 t black pepper Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 6 puffed pastry shells (or make your own) Mince celery and onions in food processor. (Do not Parmesan cheese over-process until watery). Add to all other ingredients in bowl and mix well. Adjust seasoning with salt/pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight for best flavor. Preheat oven to 350°. In saucepan, heat milk to almost simmering. Turn off heat. Sauté onion and shallots in butter over medium head until soft. Add flour and cook for 3 to 4 minutes over very low heat, stirring constantly. Add warmed milk and whisk vigorously until completely combined. Heat until just simmering. Season with salt and pepper. Add soup and stir well. Add oysters and hot sauce and simmer until edges begin to curl. Stir in parsley and liqueur. Remove from heat. Remove center top of pastries and carefully scoop out center, taking care not to cut all the way through. Heat in oven for 5 minutes. Fill center of pastries with oysters and sauce. Replace caps and drizzle sauce over. Top with grated parmesan. Serve immediately. •If oysters are large, cut into small (3/4”) pieces.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 46 w i n e Wining & Dining Article and photos by Margot Ritchie
Tawse Winery – Another Super Star in the named after his children, Robyn, Carly and David. Some of the oldest Riesling vines in Niagara are grown Niagara Wine Region here. They also own the nearby Hillside Winery (nine acres) plus two others on the Vinemount Ridge at the Moray Tawse is a successful entrepreneur from Bay top of the Niagara Escarpment -- the Quarry Road Street who co-founded the largest non-bank mortgage Winery (43 acres, bought in 2004) and the Tintern lender, First National Financial LP. Given his passion Road Winery (six acres). A boutique winery, Tawse’s for Burgundian wine, he decided to open a Niagara total production approximates 10,000 barrels. winery focused on two cool climate varietals, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, using organic and biodynamic Tawse recruited Paul Pender as winemaker, a graduate techniques to create ultra premium wines. Ranked of the Niagara College Winery and Viticulture program the best winery in Ontario at the 2009 Wine Access and specialist in biodynamic winegrowing. This was Canadian Wine Awards, Tawse Winery continues to a major career change from Pender’s career as a win accolades for its high quality wines. carpenter for the previous decade. In 2001 Tawse purchased property on the gentle Tawse and Pender led us through an extensive tasting slopes of the Vineland Double Bench on the Niagara and dinner this May at the Queen & Beaver Public Escarpment. In 2005 he opened a state-of-the-art House in downtown Toronto. Vinifera Wine Agency winery surrounded by the Cherry Road Vineyard, co-hosted this event. whose 21 acres are subdivided into three blocks,
Tawse Winery Photo credit Tawse
47 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Their `Echos’ line is sold only through licencees, while Fenadegas A9 Portuguese Wine Group the `Sketches of Niagara’ line is sold at the retail level. As Pender, explained, they are very similar, and vinified in the same style, with the sole difference being that Fenadegas Adegas Cooperativas de Portugal, known each wine line is drawn from their own distinct tank as the ‘A9’, was formed seven years ago to promote and barrel. 27 wineries representing over 15,000 producers. Their combined production averages 110 million litres Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2009 of wine per year from 22,000 hectares of vineyards, (10%;$17.95) is pale straw in colour, with citrus notes or 20% of Portgual’s total wine production. This of lemon and grapefruit, and appealing wet stone A9 cooperative allows these typically small wine characters on the finish. Tawse Wismer Lakeview producers to tap the export market. They staged a Vineyard Riesling 2008 (11% ; $22), made from tasting this June at Toronto’s C5 Lounge, with seven 15-year old vines, offers floral aromas accented by of the nine cooperatives participating. lemon zest with a good acidic core to support the off- Vinho Verde is the largest wine region in Portugal, dry character. Tawse Carly’s Block Riesling 2008 situated at the north end of the country. Representing (10.5% ; $29.95) has great depth of flavours as the over 5,000 producers, the Vercoope cooperative was fruit came from 33-year old vines. Grapefruit and formed in 1964 to enhance the profile of the Vinho lemon notes intermingle with a delicae minerality. Verde wine on the export market. Vinho Verde Tawse Sketches of Niagara Unoaked Chardonnay grapes are typically very green, lively and floral, with 2008 (13.0%; $17.95) has forward flavours of citrus, prominent peach flavours and low alcohol content. Its apple and pear, with a tropical undertone and a natural high acidity makes these wines ideal for food streak of baking spices. Tawse Scetches of Niagara pairings with seafood or grassy, herbaceous foods Chardonnay 2008 (13.0%; $19.95) is an impressive such as asparagus, green beans or salad. wine with a solid acidic backbone, sweet juicy Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho 2008 (11.0%) flavours of green apple, pear, and hints of spice and is medium bodied with a lime hue. It offers floral oak. Tawse Chardonnay “Quarry Road Estate” aromas, with appealing lime and green apple Vinemount Ridge (13.0%; $34.95) is pale lemon, flavours. Vervoope Via Latina Loureiro (11.0%) is showing ripe peach, apple and an elegant expression an intensely aromatic wine, with lovely floral aromas of oak, with subtle butterscotch and vanilla. Tawse and a bright green citrus palate with hints of almond. Chardonnay “Robyn’s Block Estate Twenty Mile Vercoope Via Latina Alvarinho (11.0%) is a full Bench Chardonnay 2007 (13.5%;$41.95) is a rich bodied, assertive wine with excellent structure. Subtle buttery wine, with cedar traces underpinning pear and floral aromas follow through with orange peel and apple flavours. citrus fruits in the persistent finish. Vercoope Terras Felgueiras (11.0%) comes from one of the oldest Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose 2009 (12%; wine groups in the Vercoope region. Light bodied V1726543) is a blend of five varietals – 32% Merlot, with a bright appearance, it offers fruity aromas and 16% Syrah, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet flavours of citrus, green apple and pear, with a good Franc and 9% Pinot Noir. Strawberry coloured, it has acidic backbone. lovely fresh fruit flavours of red currants, cherries, Douro, the region at the south east end of Vinho berries and plums, with hints of spice in the slightly Verde, is the home of Port wines and is fast becoming candied palate. recognized for its high quality red wines. Three Tawse Grower’s Blend Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5%; cooperatives were present at the tasting – Adega de $31.95) has a compelling nose of black cherry, strawberry Favaios, Caves Santa Marta and Caves Vale do and raspberry, with sweet spice notes and subtle earthy Rodo. streaks. Tawse Laidlaw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2008 Adega De Favaios is the largest producer of quality (13.0%; $39.95) is their first ‘Laidlaw’ single vineyard Moscatel wines at three million litres per year, Pinot Noir. Medium bodied with gentle tannins, it show accounting for 33% of Portugal’s total production. It rich, dark fruit flavours accented with coffee, cedar and represents over 500 producers, with 1,200 hectares smoke nuances. Tawse Lauritzen Vineyard Pinot of vineyards in the Douro region. Because these are Noir 2008 (13%;$44.95) is also their first Pinot Noir at altitudes of 550 to 630 metres, the cooler climate from this vineyard. An intriguing wine, it has layers of helps preserve the freshness and perfumed aromas of complexity with sweet ripe cherry and blueberry flavours the Muscat grape during the hot summers. Moscatel and traces of earth and anise in the long finish.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 48 Further south is the Dao region, where the red wines typically resemble Burgundy rather than Bordeaux wines. They tend to be elegant, with softer tannins rather than powerful and concentrated. Udaca is a co-operative started in 1966 that represents nine wine cellars that produce 60% of the Dao wines. Udaca Touriga Nacional Red 2004 ( %) is garnet coloured, with violet scents and cassis characters touched with spice and vanilla accents and refined tannins.
South of the Douro on the west coast is the wine region
of Lisboa, formerly known as Estremadura. North of
Lisbon, the wine region spans roughly 40 kilometres.
Adega Cooperativa Arruda Dos Vinhos, launched
in 1954, represents just over 1,000 producers with
1,600 hectares of vineyards. Arruda dos Vinhos
Extra-Madura Colheita Seleccionada Tinto 2006 is
a blend of Syrah and Touriga Nacional. Full bodied,
with evolved tannins and great structure, this inky, juicy Favaios is the best known product in the region. wine has dark cherry and red fruit flavours, with spice ( %) is Moscatel A.C. Favaios Reserve 2004 undertones. mahogany coloured. Sweet and unctuous, it has a forward nose of apricots, with tastes of orange Just to the south of the Lisboa region is the Peninsula de intermingled with raisin, almond and a nutty finish. Setubal region. The Pegoes cooperative was formed in 1958, taken over during the Portuguese revolution is the largest wine co-operative Caves Santa Marta of 1974, but ultimately regained its independence. It in the Douro, producing 10% of all this region’s wines. has 1,200 hectares of sandy soiled vineyards, which Launched in 1959, it represents over 2,000 producers. produce roughly 75% red and 25% white wines in a Caves Santa Marta Reserva Tinto 2005 (13.0%) is Mediterranean climate. Adega de Pegoes Tricnadeira a blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Tinto 2008 (13.5%) is a 100% Trincadeira varietal that Roriz that was aged for six months in American oak. was fermented in stainless steel and then oak aged. Up Plum purple in colour, it is a tannic wine still despite its front sweet cherry flavours, with spice and chocolate age. Sweet apple and red berry fruits come through nuances come through in the lingering finish. in this wine of moderate length. Caves Santa Marta Montes Pintados Tinto 2005 (13.0%) is made with For further information, contact William Delgado at the same three indigenous varietals, aged in two types 416 920-0259 or [email protected] e of Portuguese oak. Medium bodied, it has up front fruit flavours of plum and dark berries, with soft tannins and Margot Ritchie is a Toronto-based wine and cedar notes. Caves Santa Marta Touriga Nacional food journalist and consultant. She has traveled Tinto 2008 is a 100% varietal. Full bodied, with juicy red through many of the wine-growing regions of North America, Europe and New Zealand. Her fruit and spicy notes, it has a good acidic core. Caves wine related activities include providing food Santa Mart CSM 59 Tinto 2005 (14.0%) is a blend catering to private functions and corporations, of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. co-ordinating wine lists for restaurants and It has red currant flavours, with spice and nuances of putting together wine cellars for private clients. chocolate, coffee, vanilla and cedar. Caves Santa Marta Rose 2009 ( %) is fruity, with raspberry and blackberry characters and good tannins. The third cooperative from the Douro, Caves Vale do Rodo ( %)was launched in 1950 by 25 growers and merged with two other cooperatives in the region in 2004. It now accounts for 10% of the Douro wines, producing a mix of 44% Port and 56% Douro wines. Caves Vale do Rodo Cabeca de Burro Reserve Tinto 2008 is ruby red in colour, with plum compote and strawberry flavours, finishing with subtle vanilla and cedar. 49 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 f o o d The
OceanWiseCookbook
ost of us have a favourite fish or seafood that Few days go by between lectures in the media on the Mis cooked in a certain way. Maybe for you, it’s importance of going green or buying local and organic. cod and chips, or an exquisite morsel of bluefin tuna But we do need to consider the s word. It’s not easy to sashimi, or beluga caviar on toast points. But these play by the rules all the time, and when there’s so much days many of us realize that because we have not doom and gloom regarding the state of our oceans, it responsibly managed the supply of these fish, they seems that an individual choice to eat sustainably is are in danger of disappearing. We must learn to take like a splash in the ocean. But if we all pull together to a more responsible approach to what we eat and make a difference, I think there is hope. consider how our individual choices affect the world. Excerpted with permission from The Ocean Wise Cookbook, Published by Whitecap Books 2010.
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 50 Albacore Tuna Niçoise Salad Niçoise salad 8 quail eggs Salade Niçoise is a dish typical of the region of Nice 1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil in Southern France. Its most common ingredients are 1 lb (500 g) albacore tuna loin, garlic, anchovies, tomatoes, and green beans. In this cut into 4 equal pieces recipe we add seared albacore tuna, olive tapenade, ¼ cup (60 mL) chopped basil nugget potatoes, and boiled quail’s eggs. Grilled ½ cup (125 mL) Italian flat-leaf OceanWise salmon or mackerel can be used instead of tuna, and parsley leaves hen’s eggs can be substituted for quail’s eggs. This 2 cups (500 mL) arugula dish is low-fat and healthy, and can be eaten as a light dinner or lunch. Serves 4 Cook the quail eggs in boiling water for 2 minutes and 20 seconds, and then submerge them in an ice bath. note: White anchovies and caperberries can be Peel once they are cool. found at reputable Italian grocers. If you cannot find caperberries, substitute capers. I prefer to use white Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over medium- anchovies for the tapenade; they are less salty than high heat until just smoking. Sear the tuna on both regular salt-cured anchovies, but you can use anchovy sides, 1 minute per side. Toss the basil, parsley, and paste instead. arugula in a medium mixing bowl. Dijon aioli To serve 3 large egg yolks 4 cups (1 L) small green 2 Tbsp (30 mL) Dijon mustard beans, blanched 1 Tbsp (15 mL) white wine vinegar 12 Yukon Gold nugget 1 clove garlic, minced potatoes, cooked 2 cups (500 mL) olive oil 12 cherry tomatoes 1 tsp (5 mL) fresh lemon juice, 12 caperberries, rinsed or to taste ½ cup (125 mL) tapenade Salt to taste (see page 291) 8 anchovy fillets Put the egg yolks, Dijon mustard, white wine vinegar, Kosher salt and minced garlic clove in a chilled, medium metal Freshly ground black pepper bowl. (The chilled bowl helps the yolk and oil to 2 Tbsp (30 mL) aged emulsify.) Whisk the yolk mixture until it doubles in balsamic vinegar volume. Add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream until it is fully incorporated and the mixture has emulsified Divide the green beans, potatoes, cherry tomatoes, into a mayonnaise. Season the aioli to taste with and caperberries onto four chilled plates. Top them lemon juice and salt. Refrigerate until ready to serve. with the herb and arugula mix. Dollop three quenelles of tapenade (use two spoons to mold the mixture into Pistou an oval), three pools of the Dijon aioli, and three pools 2 cups (500 mL) basil leaves of the pistou around each salad. Top each salad with 3 cloves garlic a piece of seared tuna, two quail eggs, two anchovy ¼ cup (60 mL) olive oil fillets, and the reserved basil leaves. Season with ¼ cup (60 mL) grated kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a drizzle Parmesan cheese of balsamic vinegar. Fresh lemon juice to taste Salt and black pepper to taste Pairing suggestion: Poplar Grove Pinot Gris (Okanagan Valley, bc). Tom Firth: Pillitteri Estates Set aside 12 of the basil leaves for the salad. Pound Pinot Grigio (Ont). the remainder of the basil and the three garlic cloves together in a mortar and pestle or food processor to Chef: Don Letendre make a paste. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl. Restaurant: Elixir Bistro, Opus Hotel Slowly whisk in the olive oil and fold in the Parmesan Type: tuna, anchovies cheese. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt, and Location: Vancouver, BC pepper.
51 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 52 Pan-Seared Arctic Char with Grilled Fennel Coleslaw and Hollandaise This dish is a great example of how to incorporate different appear on them, a few minutes. Place the grilled fennel in a textures in larger fish. Here you have the firm and sweet gravlax, small bowl, toss it with 1 tsp (5 mL) of the lemon juice, and add the tender and juicy raw part, and the crisp and intense-flavoured more seasoning if necessary. Reserve in the refrigerator. skin—each part complemented by the elements of the dressing and accompaniments. Serves 4 To sear the fish 2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil To cure the char 20 oz (600 g) arctic char fillet, skin on Heat the olive oil in a large, non-stick pan over medium-high 3 Tbsp (45 mL) kosher salt heat. Place the char fillets in the pan, skin side down, and sear 3 Tbsp (45 mL) maple sugar (or brown sugar) them until the skin is golden brown and crisp, about 4 minutes. Zest of 1 lemon (You want the cooking to progress one-third of the way into 2 sprigs dill, finely chopped the fillet, giving you three textures of char: cooked, raw, and cured.) Place the fillet skin side down on a plastic or stainless steel tray. Evenly sprinkle the kosher salt, maple sugar, lemon zest, and Remove the fillets from the pan and place them skin side up on dill over the flesh. Cover the fish with plastic wrap and refrigerate a kitchen or paper towel. for 1¼ hours. Gently rinse off the curing mixture and pat the fillet Bacon-clam dressing dry with paper towel. Cut it into four even portions and set them 2 Tbsp (30 mL) olive oil aside. (Refrigerate them if not planning to serve as soon as you 1 lb (500 g) clams, scrubbed, (about 12 small littleneck clams) have prepared the hollandaise.) ¼ cup (60 mL) white wine Hollandaise sauce 2 Tbsp (30 mL) dry vermouth 1 cup (250 mL) white wine 1¾ oz (50 g) bacon, cut into small dice 1 cup (250 mL) white wine vinegar 2 medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced 5 shallots, sliced 3 Tbsp (45 mL) chopped chives 3 large egg yolks Heat 1 Tbsp (15 mL) of the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add ¹⁄³ cup (80 mL) whipping cream the remaining sliced shallot and fennel trimmings. Sauté until Salt and pepper to taste the shallots are translucent. ¹⁄³ cup (80 mL) extra virgin olive oil 3 drops dill oil (optional) Add the clams, give them a toss, then add the white wine and vermouth. Place the lid on the pan and cook the clams, shaking Combine the wine, vinegar, and four-fifths of the sliced shallots them occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they open. Pour in a small saucepan over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a the clams into a fine-mesh sieve, reserve the liquid, then strain simmer and reduce it by two-thirds. Cool and strain. the clam broth through a cheesecloth. Discard any unopened clams. Whisk this shallot reduction, the egg yolks, cream, and a pinch each of salt and pepper together in a medium metal bowl. Place Heat the remaining 1 Tbsp (15 mL) of olive oil in a small frying the bowl over a pot of boiling water and continue whisking the pan over medium heat. Add the bacon and diced fennel and hollandaise until it begins to form ribbons. Slowly add the extra cook until the fennel is soft. virgin olive oil in a steady stream, and then add the dill oil (if Add the reserved clam liquid, and reduce it by half. Add the using). Season the sauce to taste with more salt and pepper clams and simmer them gently until they are warmed through. if necessary. Chill the hollandaise in the refrigerator before Add the tomatoes, chives, and remaining lemon juice, and serving. season the sauce to taste with salt and pepper. Check to make sure that the hollandaise is set before use. Pour the hollandaise into a whipping canister that is set with a CO2 To serve charger and place the canister in an ice bath. (Alternatively, you Set out four plates. Place a small amount of grilled fennel just may serve the hollandaise just chilled by spooning it onto the off the centre of each plate. Spoon an equal amount of chilled plate. We prefer the CO2 method because more air lightens the hollandaise in the centre of the plate and set a piece of seared hollandaise—it’s not as heavy.) char on top. Spoon the bacon-clam dressing over the fish, and Grilled fennel garnish with a few drops of dill oil and fennel fronds. 1 large fennel bulb (reserve a few fronds for garnish) Pairing suggestion: Tom Firth: Granville Island Brewery Cypress 1 Tbsp (15 mL) olive oil Honey Lager, Vineland Estates Elevation Chardonnay (Ont), or Juice of 1 lemon La Chablisienne Petit Chablis (France). Finely slice half the fennel and cut the other half into small dice. Chef: Warren Geraghty Reserve the trimmings and diced fennel. Preheat a grill to high Type: arctic char, clams heat. Toss the sliced fennel in the olive oil and season with salt Restaurant: West Restaurant and pepper. Grill the slices, turning them once until grill marks Location: Vancouver, bc
53 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 54 Steamed Sake-Marinated Barramundi with Ginger and Scallion Julienne This is an easy-to-prepare dish with full-bodied Oil the steamer basket, or spray with nonstick spray. flavour. Barramundi belongs to the perch family and (Or a good trick is to line the bottom of the steamer has exceptional nutritional value and exceptional basket with lettuce, if you have it—iceberg or romaine taste—somewhere between sablefish, walleye, works best.) In a pot or very large skillet add a sufficient swordfish, and bass. At Goldfish we like to enhance amount of water for steaming. Place the fish in the barramundi’s natural flavours by simply steaming it basket, making sure that the fillets are not touching with a few ingredients, letting the natural flavour of the one another. fish to come through. Cover the steamer baskets and steam for about 8 minutes, or until the fish is firm but still moist inside. Steaming with ginger and scallions is a traditional Chinese way to prepare fish, something my mom To finish taught me as a child. Remember to peel the ginger ¼ cup (60 mL) julienned green as the peel will add bitterness. Serve with steamed onion (cut green onion into 2-inch/ jasmine rice. Serves 4 5 cm lengths then slice lengthwise) ¼ cup (60 mL) julienned fresh special equipment : You will need a large bamboo ginger (peeled) steamer basket with a lid or two smaller ones (which ½ cup (125 mL) vegetable oil you stack) with one lid. Two may work better if you 4 Tbsp (60 mL) light soy sauce need more room for all the fillets. The bamboo from the steamer baskets will add to the flavour. Prepare the rest of the ingredients while the fish is steaming—once the fish is cooked you will be serving Marinade it immediately. ½ cup (125 mL) sake Transfer the fish onto serving dishes. Divide the green ¼ cup (60 mL) light soy sauce onion and ginger julienne on top. In a small pot or fry 1 cup (125 mL) cold water pan, heat the oil until it barely starts to smoke. Be very 3 sprigs thyme careful—if the oil gets too hot it will catch on fire. Pour ½ Thai bird chili an even amount of the oil on each piece of fish. The 2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely sliced ginger (peeled) heat from the oil will slightly crisp up the ginger and 2 Tbsp (30 mL) finely sliced garlic green onion. (I call this flashing with hot oil.) In a bowl add the sake, soy sauce, and water. Bruise To finish add 1 Tbsp (15 mL) of soy sauce on top of the thyme with your hands to release the natural oils, each dish. and crush the chili with the heel of your knife. Add the thyme, chili, ginger, and garlic to the bowl. Mix well. Pairing Suggestion: The solid flavours, good acidity, and For best results let the marinade steep for at least an fine balance of Pinot Noir really enhance barramundi hour before adding the fish. and all the other flavours of this dish. Tom Firth: Spy Valley Pinot Noir (New Zealand) or MacMurray Ranch To marinate and cook the fish Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir (California). Four 6 oz (175 g) barramundi fillets, preferably skin on Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste Chef: William Tse Restaurant:Goldfish Pacific Kitchen Pat the fish dry with a paper towel. Place the fish Type:barramundi into the marinade, making sure it is fully submerged. Location:Vancouver, BC Marinate for 20 minutes. Be careful not to marinate for e too long as this will start to negatively affect the flavour and colour. Remove the fish from the marinade and pat dry once again with paper towel. Season with sea salt and white pepper.
55 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 w i n e
Touring Niagara
WineArticle byCountry Edward Finstein
t’s always a great time to visit wine country in cream sauce, and soft ripe cheeses, check out Henry Niagara, Ontario. If you’ve not been out to this of Pelham, Niagara College, 13th Street, Hillebrand, Iworld-famous wine region in awhile, you’ll be Peninsula Ridge, Closson Chase, Vineland, Chateau amazed at how it’s grown. There are now more than des Charmes, Flat Rock Cellars, DeSousa, Mountain seventy wineries here, truly making it a showcase Road, Strewn or Mike Weir wineries for decent for the country. Ontario produces a whopping eighty- examples. five percent of the wines in Canada, with the vast Maybe Riesling is your passion. Floral, fruity, and majority coming from this delightful region. Touring crisp, dry versions are great companions to fish, Niagara wine country can be exhilarating, educational, shellfish and veal, so give those from Thirty Bench, entertaining and downright delicious. Chateau des Charmes, Cave Spring Cellars, Tawse, It was icewine that originally put Niagara on the Rosewood Estates and Vineland Estates a go. Sweet world map, but today many varieties and styles are selections like icewine from Jackson Triggs, Inniskillin, impressing wine lovers globally. Over the past two Chateau des Charmes, Henry of Pelham, and Royal decades, Niagara wines have regularly won awards de Maria adore desserts and veiny cheeses. in international competitions. Gewurztraminer lovers won’t go wrong with those If you like Chardonnay with its toasty, nutty, apply from Tawse, Rosewood Estates, Fielding Estate and character that works so well with fish, seafood, pasta in Pillitteri. Aromatic and spicy, it does wonders for Thai
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 56 and Indian dishes, foie gras, or smoked foods. Fielding Estate, Coyote’s Run, Stonechurch and Jackson Triggs. Did I hear Sauvignon Blanc mentioned? This crisp, herbaceous, gooseberry-driven vino is a great aperitif The hybrid Baco Noir, with its smoky, blackberried, and is divine with goat cheese, vegetable dishes, herbaceous nuances from such producers as or fish and poultry seasoned with herbs.Creekside, Lakeview Cellars and Henry of Pelham, rules with Chateau des Charmes, Peninsula Ridge, and Vineland barbecued fare, smoked meats, pizza and harder Estates do an admirable job. cheeses. Vidal Blanc is an interesting hybrid. Easy drinking, Bordeaux-style red blends with their tobacco-laden dark fruity, floral and crisp, it shines as Icewine from Reif, fruit and firm structure dazzle from Reif, Thirty Bench, Birchwood, Vineland Estates, Willow Heights, Peller Hillebrand, Henry of Pelham, Southbrook, Vineland, Estates, Inniskillin, Wayne Gretzky Estates, Strewn, Creekside, Magnotta, Wayne Gretzky Estates, Pelee Mountain Road, Dan Aykroyd and Konzelmann. Island and 13th Street. A steak’s best friend! Sheer magic with paté, fruits, desserts and veiny Off the wall Icewine made from red vatrietals like cheeses! Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz are Red wine aficionados, rejoice. Followers of Cabernet magnificent from Pillitteri, Chateau des Charmes, Sauvignon, with its black currant, cedary, tobacco, Riverview Cellars Estate and Jackson-Triggs. herbaceous notes and affinity to grilled or roasted red Even versatile rosé, with its floral, berry demeanor, meats and mature hard cheeses, will dig those from and affinity to poultry and fish, delivers from Creekside Estate, Pillitteri, Chateau des Charmes, Creekside, Malivoire, Peninsula Ridge, Chateau des Magnotta, Kacaba, Hillebrand and Southbrook. No Charmes, Legends Estates, Peller Estates and Henry problem if its cousin Cabernet Franc is your thing. of Pelham. Its herbaceous, black raspberried, violet soul that Touring Niagara Finally, nose-tickling, toasty, crisp bubbly from Henry meshes so well with grilled or roasted, herb-encrusted red meats, stews, vegetables and medium-aged of Pelham, Cave Spring Cellars, Hillebrand Estates, cheeses will delight with samples from Pelee Island, Maleta Estate and Chateau des Charmes comes Inniskillin, Tawse, Colio, Lailey Vineyard and Vineland through, especially as an aperitif or with fish, poultry, Wine Country Estates. sushi and soft young cheeses. If Merlot tickles your fancy, look no further than All this mention of food in wine country needn’t Hernder Estates, Creekside, Colio, Peller or Pillitteri worry you as many of the wineries have fantastic for selections full of silky, plummy, red/black berries restaurants on their premises. They serve up culinary that do justice to roasts, stews, casseroles and delights utilizing fresh, local ingredients, the perfect medium cheeses. accompaniment to the local wine. On the Twenty at Cave Spring Cellars is fabulous under the watchful Get a good handle on finicky Pinot Noir from Le Clos eye of Chef Kevin Maniaci. Chef Frank Dodd dishes Jordanne, Tawse, Coyote’s Run, Cave Spring and out sumptuous fare at Hillebrand’s Winery Restaurant. Henry of Pelham. Elegant, raspberried, violet-like and Peller Estates’ Winery Restaurant is great, helmed by earthy, they’re engaging with beef, venison, game Chef Jason Parsons. Sit out on the restaurant deck birds, duck, stews and medium cheeses. overlooking the vineyard at Vineland Estates and Juicy, fruity, cherried, easy-drinking Gamay comes enjoy Chef Jan Willem Stulp’s awesome culinary to life from 13th Street, Malavoire, Peller Estates creations. You won’t be disappointed dining at the and Marynissen. Great with burgers, pizza, grilled Coach House Café at Henry of Pelham under Chef sausages, sandwiches and medium cheeses! Erik Peacock’s gastronomic vision. Enjoy a delicious meal at the ambient Kitchen House of Peninsula Spicy, leathery, earthy, blackberried Syrah/Shiraz, Ridge. Indulge in the fine presentations of Chef Josh which is superb with game, spicy dishes and hard, Minor at Windows on Rockway Glen. Partake of Chef mature cheeses, wows from Creekside Estate, Alain Levesque’s French Provencal- inspired cuisine
57 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010 at Terroir La Cachette at Strewn Winery or experience Here are some golden rules for making the absolute the ever-popular food of Niagara College’s Culinary most out of this outing, especially when it comes to Institute Dining Room. Other wineries, including wine tasting. First and foremost, plan ahead. Choose Angel’s Gate, Creekside Estate, EastDell Estates, three or four wineries a day that are relatively close Featherstone Estate, Harvest Estate, Hernder Estate, together so you don’t have to travel excessively Puddicombe Estate Farms and Ridgepoint, also offer between them.Pick a few smaller ones and a few dining opportunities. larger ones just for variety. Make sure one of them has a restaurant on site so you can dine there As for special events taking place at the wineries, without having to look around for somewhere to eat. the calendar is endless. From winemaker dinners, Bring water with you and stay well lubricated. Avoid cooking classes and tastings to vineyard tours, wearing perfumes or colognes so as not to interfere concerts and festivals, you’ll have no problem filling with the wines’ aromatics. Wear dark clothes in case your schedule. In fact, your hardest task will be you spill something on yourself. Experiment with deciding which to do. different wine styles and varieties to get a broader You might love touring Niagara wine country so much perspective. Ask questions – winery folk love to chat you’ll want to stay over and continue on. Several about their wines. Take lots of breaks and nibble often. wineries offer on-site lodging. Inn on the Twenty at Most importantly, at each winery, locate the nearest Cave Spring Cellars in Jordan is a beautifully restored spittoon and remember to spit, don’t swallow. If you turn-of-the-century facility. You could stay in one of want to indulge, make sure you have a designated the quaint rooms at the Riverbend Inn and Vineyard. driver, and know when to call it quits. You might also try the bed-and-breakfast cottage or For general information on the wines and wineries estate guesthouse at Vineland Estates. Alternately, of Niagara, go to www.winesofontario.org. For there is a plethora of hotels, vintage inns and bed and guided tours, check out www.niagarawineryguide. breakfasts in the area that will fit every budget. com/niagara-winery-tours-2.shtml. For places to stay There’s never been a finer time to discover this bit of in Niagara wine country, try www.tourismniagara. vinous heaven right here in our own backyard. Make com, www.vintage-hotels.com (vintage inns) and a day of it, spend several or even holiday here! With www.niagarabbguide.com (bed and breakfasts). the economy still not where it should be, vacationing within our own country makes a lot of sense. See why Niagara is one of the hottest wine growing regions in the New World. You won’t be disappointed. e
Planning Your Tour
Elite 2010 • Issue 2 • 58 f o o d Recipe for WAVY TV Quick Chicken Dinner Recipe provided Executive Chef Eric Doarnberger, Swan Terrace Restaurant, at the Founders Inn and Spa in Virginia Beach.
2 each chicken breast (roughly 6oz. each) Put a half quart of water into a 1 quart pot and bring to a boil. Cut asparagus about 4 inches from the top. 2 Tbls. Flour Set aside until you get to the step when you add the 2 Tbls. Olive oil lemon juice, tomato, and butter. (Please read below). 4 each Yukon Gold potatoes When you get to this step, add the asparagus to the boiling water. 3 each large fresh basil leaves, julienned Take each piece of chicken and butterfly it into two 1 Tbls grated parmesan cheese pieces. Salt, pepper, and sprinkle flour on both sides 12 each Asparagus of all four pieces of chicken. Put 1 Tbls. olive oil in a heated sauté pan and add the chicken on medium 8 Tbls chicken stock high heat. When the outer edges of the chicken start 1 half lemon, juiced to cook and turn white (3-4 minutes) flip chicken and sauté other side (3-4min.) Remove from pan but return 1 clove garlic pan to the medium high heat Add garlic and sauté 1 Italian plum tomato, small diced but do not let it brown. Add chicken stock and reduce 1 Tbls Butter by half. Add the lemon juice, tomato and butter. Stir until the butter has emulsified into the sauce. Salt and pepper to taste Arrange the potatoes just above the middle of each plate overlapping them and arching them like a half Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees. circle. Place the asparagus over the potatoes then arrange the chicken over the asparagus. Spoon the sauce on the chicken and towards the bottom of the Put 2 quarts of water in a pot and bring to a boil. plate. Meanwhile, slice potatoes into quarter-inch disks. Your goal is to have a nice presentation at the center Add potatoes to boiling water and cook for about 12 of the plate - fanned potatoes, nestled asparagus, minutes. Remove from water, place in a bowl and toss arranged chicken and sauce- just like you are in a with 1 Tbls. olive oil, basil, cheese, salt and pepper. restaurant. e Spray a sheet pan or use a silpat on a sheet pan and place potatoes evenly on it. Place in oven for 12-14 minutes. Remove from oven when golden brown. Reserve in a warm area.
59 • Issue 2 • Elite 2010