August 2010 No

C A R I B B E A N FREE C MPASS AUGUST 2010 NO. 179 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Dominica all Day

See story on page 20 AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Cover photo:SimonWalshcapturedthisimageoftheseasidevillageSoufriere,Dominica http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& New marinereserveinCarriacou Coming A LongTime ARC &Caribbean1500explain .. Unite Why RallyGiants The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore AUGUST 2010•NUMBER179 www.caribbeancompass.com ...15 10

Click GoogleMaplinkbelowto ﬁ LADELL Cruisers becomefishers Beginner’s Luck 28 New ReigninRedonda ...... That KingThing The ‘Other’Trinidad Yay, ScotlandBay! Leave theCaribbean,thatis How NOTto… ...... 25 ...... 34 ...... 18 ...

nd the IHMIDANIELS GICHUMBI [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: Tel: (5999)4627733 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissionstosally@caribbeancompass.com. Caribbean Compass Cruising Kids’Corner 32 ...... Fun Pages...... 30,31 29 Book Review ...... Maritime History 26 ...... 20 All Ashore… ...... Meridian Passage 18 ...... 16 Regatta News...... 12 Caribbean Eco-News...... 8 Business Briefs ...... Caribbean Compass can use.We’re theCaribbean’smonthlylookatseaandshore. Panama toBarbuda,we’vegotthenewsandviewsthatsailors AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution-BudgetMarineCuraçao Compass Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby events andpeople.” edition isavailablesowecancatchupontherealskinny Caribbean. Weboaterscanhardlywaittillthenextmonthly Compass boating friendsknowhowmuchweenjoyreadingthe except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2010 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedlengthclarity. responsibility oftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! coverstheCaribbean!FromCubatoTrinidad, from “It ismypleasureandperhapsobligationtoletallour Yacht Alleluia — TitoFigueroa andhowitenrichesourexperiencecruisingthe DEPARTMENTS nearyou! ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandletterstoeditoraresole Advertisers’ Index 46 ...... 46 Classified Ads ...... Caribbean MarketPlace 43 ..... 42 Monthly Calendar ...... What’s onMyMind Readers’ Forum 37 ...... 36 Cooking withCruisers ...... The CaribbeanSky 33 ...... 32 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448 Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: (868)621-0575,Cell:620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590690760100 spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, Distribution -LisaKessell [email protected] Tel: (758)4520147Cell:7208432. St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales-MauriceMoffat Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado ...... 41 ...... Ad Sales - Debra Davis Ad Sales-DebraDavis AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

Wanderlust while anchored at St. Martin. (http://thetriton.com): US Customs and Border (http://thetriton.com): US Customs Wanderlust 3, The Triton Mariners must use this channel for traffic to and from these locations as well as to and from these locations use this channel for traffic Mariners must in this chan- 1972 are applicable Collision Prevention Regulations The International you should find of any anchored vessels. If made to void this area Efforts are being [email protected] or visit www. For more information contact Electronic Check-Ins USVI and Puerto Rico Now Accept As reported July 12th in The LBO is a pre-clearance system in limited US Coast Guard sectors [including The LBO is a pre-clearance be able to file and update their float plan on-line. It is intended for boaters to Singlehander Attacked in St. Martin was attacked and On June 28th, 63-year-old solo circumnavigator Mike Harker go to Bobby’s Marina for services can call their offices or contact them on VHF their offices or contact them Marina for services can call go to Bobby’s is not allowed in the channel. further information. Anchoring Channel 69 for there are Pier in Pointe Blanche unless and from the Cruise Tender local traffic to draft restrictions. on all inland waters of St. Maarten. nel as well as re-anchor so to remove your vessel and area please make all efforts yourself in this not cross the channel. direction your vessel does that in any wind portofstmaarten.com. Protection has begun accepting electronic submissions for clearing in for partici- Protection has begun accepting (LBO). The web-based, automated check-in adds pants in the Local Boater Option options of reporting private vessel arrivals from a for- to the phone and in-person eign country. and the US Virgin Islands] that enables mariners to be Tampa, Miami, Puerto Rico advance. Only US citizens and lawful permanent resi- interviewed and cleared in are approved, they receive a number and then can dents are eligible. Once they of having to report in person. Under the new Small phone in their arrival instead can now also report in on-line. Vessel Reporting System, they and activated, SVRS will issue a float plan number. Once a float plan is entered members can check-in using the float plan number Upon arrival in US waters, LBO and click on the “travel” and then “small vessel on the CBP website, www.cbp.gov, reporting system” areas. beaten aboard his Hunter 49, was in Simpson Bay Lagoon below Mt. Fortune (“Witch’s Tit”), … was in Simpson Bay Lagoon below Mt. Fortune (“Witch’s —Continued on next page

The sea side entrance to the channel buoys has red and green flashing lights and The sea side entrance to the channel buoys has red and New Buoyed Channel in Great Bay, St. Maarten New Buoyed Channel in Great has put in a buoyed channel for marine traffic in Great St. Maarten Ports Authority is located at 18°01´.085 North and 063°02´.086 West. The maximum draft for vessels is located at 18°01´.085 North and 063°02´.086 West. The with deeper draft wishing to using the channel is approximately seven feet. Vessels east side of the bay. This new channel is meant to guide mariners safely to these east side of the bay. This new channel is meant to guide channel is marked in accor- destinations and maintain clear anchorage areas. The B. This means when entering dance with the IALA Maritime Buoyage System Region on their starboard side. The from the sea, vessels must keep the red channel marker must maintain a safe channel and anchorage area is a No Wake Zone. Operators circumstances and conditions speed at all times. Adjust your speed to the prevailing to avoid a collision and/or be and so that you can take proper and effective action reducing your speed stopped within an appropriate distance. Remember, when check your stern wave and you may not always reduce your wake. Look back and adjust your speed until you have a minimal wake. Bay. It goes to and from the Captain Hodge wharf and to the marinas in the north- Bay. It goes to and from the & Updates & Info AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 navigation withhisfamily,viaCapeHorn,in boats tothesouth,westornorth. …as thenearestboattochannelalongFrench/Dutchborderwithnoother — years hewasthePresidentofTTSA,guidingitsevolutiontowhereclubistoday. the foundersofbothSanFernando(Trinidad)YachtClubandTTSA.Formany and ofsailinginlocalregionalwaters. Careme dinghy. Hehasalsocompetedinregionalregattasformanyyearshisyachts T&T inseveralPanAmgames,CACgamesandtheOlympicsFlyingDutchman hold thenation’shighestaward—TrinityCross. transatlantic crossingstookplace,in1992and2000.HaroldhiswifeKwailan the Atlanticin with hisfamilyin1973home-builtyacht prizegiving dinner.Thefirstfourinducteesareasfollows: Association (TTSA)inaugurateditsveryownSailingHallofFameduringannual and therewasnogold.” friends saidthethoughtwasabsurd.Letmemakethisveryclear!Thereisnogold er wouldbefoolishenoughtostoreextremevaluablesonboardaship,andBo’s ter.net, “FromthefamilytalkingwithBo’sboatingfriends,theylearnedthatnoboat- — moneyandgold.” apparently notjustarandomattackagainstboater….Therewasheftymotive Spanish gold.Headds:“Panamaisaverysafecountry,relativelyspeaking.Thiswas ship andthegovernmentofthatcountryhadpaidhimwith17thcentury Bo hadrecentlycompletedasalvageoperationinHondurasofsunkentreasure his boat—apresumedreasonfortheattackbyfivegunmen.Winnerreportsthat diver andtreasurehunterwhoprobablyhadabout200,000dollarsworthofgoldon daughter-in-law Sujeywerealsoinjuredintheattack. stretch ofriverroughlyeightmilessouththetownPedregal.Bo’ssonZachand near BajoPiponintheRepublicofPanama.isasparselypopulated aboard his70-foot,1949SparkmanandStevensschooner, cane season. attackers andthepoliceobtainedDNAsamples. aboards fromtwoyachtsanchoredtothenortheastof police andtheemergencymedicalboatwereallatmysidewithin15minutes”.Live- and ransackedtheboat.HewasabletocallaMaydayonVHF16says,“The money. Whenhesaidallhadwasthecashinhiswallet,theybeathim,tiedhimup Mike reportedthattwomenswamouttohisboatatabout4:00 Sidney Knox:aWorldWarIIpilot,businessman,andlongtimesailorwhowasoneof Rawle Barrow:aracingandcruisingyachtsmanwhointhe1960scompetedfor Harold LaBorde:thefirstnationalofT&Ttosailaroundworld,whichhedid Pierre LaBordereports:OnSaturdayJuly3rd,theTrinidad&TobagoSailing First InducteesatTrinidad&Tobago’sSailingHallofFame However, PanamaresidentandfamilyfriendDonRaywritesatwww.chiriquichat- According toDonWinnerofwww.panama-guide.com,Bowasafamoussalvage On June29th,61-year-oldBoKjaer-Olsenwasshotinthelegandbledtodeath Link toGoldinSkipper’sDeathPanamaDisputed Mike hasbeenreleasedfromthehospitalandintendstosailsouthforhurri- Video securitycamerasatanearbydinghydockhavegottenphotosofthe Continued frompreviouspage and Sweet Luv

the 26-foot . HehaslongbeeninstrumentalinthedevelopmentofTTSA, Humming Bird in1960.Healsomadeasecondcircum- Humming BirdIII Humming BirdII Wanderlust Antares, in1986.Twomore , havingsailedacross AM also responded. alsoresponded. and demanded anddemanded whileatanchor Petit regional regattasinhisyachts He alsohelpedtodeveloptheTobagoRegattaandcompetedformanyyearsin —Continuedonnextpage its 15thedition,andtheintegralrolepublisher/editorJackDausendhasplayed,… Association ofTrinidad&Tobago(YSATT),spokeaboutthe viders andvisitingcruisers.DonaldStollmeyer,ChairmanoftheYachtServices & Tobago in theseregattasarenamedhishonour. and Carriacou, andAntiguaregattasonhisyachts Dougie passedawayin2004.HecompetedmanyTobago,Grenada,Barbados, marine industry. service quality,fosterbettercustomerrelationsandpromoteTrinidad’sleisure who, sinceAprilofthisyear,havebeenmeetingregularlytofindwaysimprove Chaguaramas BusinessCommunity(CBC),aninformalgroupofbusinesspeople fast atSailsRestaurant,Chaguaramas,Trinidad.Thiseventwassponsoredbythe company representativesandinterestedofficialsmetoveradelicious“Trini”break- this writing. rently closedduetothedangerofflashfloodsandlandslidesinrainyseason. note thatthepopulartourismsitesofTrinityFallsandBaleinearecur- Douggie Myers’sbrotherHarry,HaroldLaBordeandSidneyKnox Inaugural T&TSailingHallofFameinductees(lefttoright):RawleBarrow, Dougie Myers:awell-knownracingyachtsmanonthelocalandregionalscene, The purposeofthisbreakfastwastolaunchthenew Ruth Lundreports:OnJuly14thsome65cruisersand40yacht-relatedcontractors, Cruisers’ BreakfastHighlightsT&TDirectoryLaunch For [email protected]. If youwanttovisitabeautifulwaterfallinSt.Vincent,DarkViewFallsisopenasof If anchoredalongorotherwisevisitingtheLeewardcoastofSt.Vincent,please Two WaterfallsCurrentlyOffLimitsinSt.Vincent Domani. and provideaforumforinformationsharingbetweenyachtservicepro- It isatestimonytohisdedicationracingthatseveralmarkerbuoys Mayumi and After Hours Legacy, Hooligan,Huey,HueyToo , amongothers. Boaters’ DirectoryofTrinidad Boaters’ Directory , nowin

AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 : is now avail- where you will where you will Compass Now Available

went missing from went missing from . Caribbean Compass To pick up your latest edition of Compass in Tobago able in Tobago. Editions will be stocked exclusively at Store Bay Marine Services (SBMS) shop at Cable Beach. Based in the southwest of Tobago, SBMS offers internet (Wi-Fi at the anchorage at Store Bay) and laundry facilities to visiting yachts and also has a team of marine engineers to enable quick and quality repairs island-wide. The company has distribution contracts with major marine suppliers in the US, and in Trinidad and other CARICOM countries, which allows for efficient ordering and delivery of marine parts. Tobago is located outside the hurricane belt — an unspoiled cruising ground with numerous idyllic, safe and secure anchorages for those sailing between Grenada and Trinidad. www.street-iolaire.com Loose Cannon that the body in St. Maarten responsible that the body in St. Maarten we welcome new advertisers the Round DR Compass exactly one month later, on June 23rd. The J/24 was June 23rd. The J/24 was exactly one month later, on www.surveymonkey.com/s/P9KMFST go to Store Bay Marine Services, Unit B, Bago’s Beach Bar, Fayole Found After a Month Adrift

Caribbean Compass Welcome Aboard! In this issue of 0630 AST - The Trinidad Emergency Net (Eric) on 3855 has been off the air since 0630 AST - The Trinidad Emergency Net (Eric) on 3855 has on 3815 was removed 0630 AST - the Caribbean Emergency and Weather Net Also: on 7086 at this time, 0730 AST - KP2G (George) is no longer broadcasting weather Act Fast for Grenada Carnival! Grenada and reading this Carnival Monday in Grenada is August 9th. If you’re in or visit the For more information call 440-2385/459–5332, e-mail [email protected] Amendments to Selected Shortwave Weather Broadcasts the Selected Shortwave We are glad to have been informed of corrections to Grenada’s Marine Industry Supports National Sailing Academy Grenada Yacht Club, The Grenada National Sailing Academy, based at the in Grenada for Budget Marine has been supporting the youth sailing programmes expand its current race- After the Summer Camp, the GNSA will be looking to Loose Cannon a J/24 called As we reported last month, Not Set Yet New St. Maarten Yacht Rates of We reported in the May issue For current rates visit www.sxmlagoonauthority.com. • For a master’s course on hurricanes go to course on hurricanes go • For a master’s A number of in Antigua Sailing Week. was sent to participants • Recently a survey Caribbean Compass Pigeon Point Road, Crown Point. For more information on Store Bay Marine Services visit www.sbms.co.tt. sometime in March. from the list but is still on the air. net. although he continues at 1630 for the cocktail and weather in the first week of August, there’s still time to get involved in Grenada Carnival by in the first week of August, there’s still time to get involved band VAT: “Very Attractive joining Ricardo Keens-Douglas’s visitor-friendly carnival come dressed as a Very Tourist”. No feathers, sequins or beads required — just in your locker already: Attractive Tourist. Most of you might have the tourist outfits beach bags, sunglasses, beach dresses, wraps, bikinis, Hawaiian shirts, surf shorts, too! straw hats — and guess what? There’s a Sailor Tourist section, mas camp located on Green Street, St. George’s. issue of Weather Broadcast schedule that appeared in the June Race, on page 17; Mercury Marine, on page 24; and Chateau Mygo Restaurant of St. Lucia and Lumba Dive of Carriacou, both in the Market Place section, pages 43 through 45. Good to have you with us! received generous support from the local marine industry for its Summer Camp run- received generous support from the local marine industry complete beginners, aged ning from July 26th through August 6th. The camp trains industry is experiencing between eight and 14, the basics of sailing. The marine the opportunity to learn rapid growth in Grenada and many youngsters welcome about sailing and its possible career opportunities. by contributing, along many years and has once again demonstrated that support GNSA. Significant help in with Spice Island Marine, three racing Optimists to the Marine, and GNSA has also repairing some of the boats has come from Grenada Sails. Port Louis Marina secured generous discounts on sail repairs by Turbulence & Nicholson waterfront and offered use of their extensive premises and the Camper Also there have been pontoons for the Treasure Hunt and other sail-training games. Charters, Anita Sutton of donations from James and Jacqui Pascall at Horizon Yacht Bryden & Minors. Island Dreams, Bob Goodchild of Flyingfish Ventures and training programme with a new group of beginners. Carlisle Bay, Barbados on May 23rd. The boat was found adrift north of Curaçao 23rd. The boat was found adrift north of Curaçao Carlisle Bay, Barbados on May by the sailing yacht base in Curaçao, where it was inspected. Basic gear towed to the Coast Guard diving masks, flares, fire extinguishers and life vests were including folded sails, lines, that they found no evidence of a man-overboard aboard. The authorities reported concluded that the boat had probably gone adrift situation or vandalism, and boat had been in Barbados to race in the Mount accidentally. The St. Lucia-based Gay/Boatyard Regatta. for collecting yacht fees, the Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority, has been reorganized Simpson Bay Lagoon Authority, has been reorganized for collecting yacht fees, the to the government for a new fee structure. While a and was making proposals done, these have not yet led to a decision on the review and studies have been new rates. find the following articles: “Securing for a Hurricane”, “Tracking Hurricanes”, Hurricane”, “Tracking Hurricanes”, articles: “Securing for a find the following a Boat Some Myths”, “Leaving “Hurricanes — Exploding “Hurricane Holes”, on Ivan”. on Hugo” and “Reflections Hurricane Season”, “Reflections Unattended in You may not to reach firm conclusions. received but insufficient replies have been but, as a result of never have taken part in recent years or you may have taken part of Sailing an intimate knowledge connections, you may have business or other part. as those who have taken opinions will be as valuable Week and your survey Complete the

” Genesis Compass

www.jamaica- ], the Carriacou Cruisers then filled Cruisers then filled . Visit the new sec- Sailors”, has generated much discussion, then spoke about cruising foreign boat- cruising foreign of ers and the citizens Trinidad & Tobago since 1990. out a small question- their naire regarding experience in Chaguaramas, after which the buffet breakfast was devoured. Carlos Fensom, whose Facebook page, “Trinidad for Cruising

DESKTOP DESIGNS AND LETTERS see “Traditional Launch “With the recent resur- April 2005 workboat has taken on signif- icantly different economic proportions. The boats were getting bigger and bigger and dearer and dearer, which has resulted in a powerful A Class, well represented in Antigua, but leaving a gaping hole in the size that a layman could afford: i.e. the B Class, 32 feet and under. gence of boat building in both Windward and Petite of Carriacou Sloop by Alexis Andrews, is available at GEORGIE TUSON . . Trinidad was launched in 2005 [ on-line at www.boatersenterprise.com. www.womenandcruising.com New Moon Genesis Jamaica Cruising Guide for Bahamas and Caribbean Cruising Advisories. has been providing as always is free of : “Since Boaters’ Directory . It is a free download. The author of the guide is Frank Virgintino, Compass www.seaworthy.com Boaters’ Directory Continued from previous page Continued from The name of the new boat is “This will not be a work boat as such, so the emphasis is more on simplicity rather Cruisers’ Site-ings • The new, comprehensive • There is an interesting discussion on the topic “Is the Caribbean Safe to Cruise?” Dave tells New Sloop Launched in Carriacou and built by On July 11th a 32-foot traditional Carriacou sloop designed The With this one compact book in hand, you can The yellow pages are set up in business cate- New T&T Boaters’ Directory Now Available Cathryn Winn reports: For 15 years, the As usual, the full-colour front section is designed Cruisers expressed appreciation for the event. The information gathered will serve for the event. The information gathered will serve Cruisers expressed appreciation Mark De Freitas, Manager of the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, facilitated the Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association, facilitated Mark De Freitas, Manager of • Also check out The Interview with a Cruiser Project at • Visit Jack Dausend addressing the breakfast meeting Jack Dausend addressing the than the dependence on six strong men always available to hoist and tweak. The rig will be as traditional as possible — but the word hybrid seems to creep into our terminology these days….” Martinique I wanted to build a vessel that was a traditional design but built to with- stand time — not the usual ten-year plan, but, with modern epoxies and the availability of bronze fastenings and power tools, something that would endure the ages. at the Women and Cruising Blog: who recently cruised Jamaica extensively. Frank is also the author of the on-line guide to the Dominican Republic. cruisingguide.com Bernard Compton and commissioned by Dave Goldhill was launched in was launched in Bernard Compton and commissioned by Dave Goldhill Windward, Carriacou. charge and found at all the marinas and chandleries in Chaguaramas. You can charge and found at all the marinas and chandleries also get the entire find a doctor or a dentist; navigate the telephone and postal services; talk to your Embassy; and find that elusive part for your outboard engine. gories, and there is a separate section of blue pages of brand names, plus a listing at the back of all the active marine businesses. to help you get to know Trinidad better. You’ll find maps of Chaguaramas; Customs and Immigration rules; pet owners’ guidelines; and much more of interest. — between the to improve the relationship tremendous commitment …working with similar sessions in to guide marine service providers. The intention is to organize present. The CBC interest future, hopefully with the relevant officials/representatives CBC and YSATT members) group works in close liaison with YSATT (many are both through an official body, and recognizes that while some things are best channeled can do to improve and there is much that individual contractors and companies revitalize the yacht service industry. & Tobago Boaters’ Directory yachtsmen with an annual guide so helpful it has been called “the cruiser’s Bible”. Jack Dausend, editor and publisher for all of these years, along with his co-directors Ryan Nunes and Phillip Lewis, are proud to announce the arrival of the 2010- 2011 edition. the discussion session, during which concerns about safety and security in the yards which concerns about safety and security in the yards the discussion session, during and Immigration issues and other problems were raised. and on the water, Customs at Customs, Mr. Ramkissoon, Gina Carvalho of YSATT and The new Officer in Charge responses where appropriate. various CBC members gave what the CBC was trying to achieve; Jesse James reported on the situation regard- what the CBC was trying to Dr. Arthur Potts of the T&T Institute of Marine Affairs ing bringing pets into T&T; and the economic impact study on the boating industry made a presentation regarding currently being done. http://interviewwithacruiser.blogspot.com tion on cruising families while you’re there. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 [email protected] www.abcboatsnv.com Caracasbaaiweg 158-CuraçaoNeth. Antilles Ph (+5999)4614476Fax4925 ALL YOU NEEDFORBOATING &FISHING without compromisingqualityandservice. That ishow ABC MARINEwasborn. Open Monday-Friday08.3017.30 On Curaçaotherewasaneed for aninexpensiveChandlery Saturday 09.00-13.00

ship breakfast andlunchatthePoolbarRestaurantplusdinneronboardlighthouse given tolong-servingmembersofstaffenjoyanight’sstayatthehotel,including rants. Thecompostwillfertilizethemarina’swell-maintainedgardens. creating compostbedsusingthevegetablewastefrommarina’stworestau- useful ideastodevelopsomenewprojectsatLePhareBleu.Theseinclude edge ofhowanothergardening/landscapecompanyoperatesandbringback ment gotintopartymodeanddancedthenight. na owners’homeland,Switzerland.Aftertheceremonyallstaffandmanage- worked atLePhareBleusinceAugust2008.Enochwinsatwo-weektriptothemari- low season,LePhareBleuisinvestinginitsteamof40employees. their insurancecosts.Andbetterservice,nocharge. ers, long-distancecruisersandsailors,captainsothermarineinsuranceexperts. instructions anytimetogetyourinformationusandhelpyouquickly. enced adjustersonstafftoassistfromclaimsettlement,andon-linefiling a businessoperatorintheslowseason,thiscanbelifesaver.Wehaveexperi- for thingsyoudon’twantorneed.Premiumscanbetailoredtofityourbudget.For sonnel managingyourclaim;ornoserviceandcoverage. punitive depreciationpenaltiesforboatsoverfiveyearsofage;inexperiencedper- conditions toprotectunderwritersratherthanyou,theircustomer. ums toanaffordablelevel,oftenunderinsuring. not affordtoinsureproperly.Ortheyhavecutbackoncoveragegetthepremi- marine-related hasincreasedsomuchoverthepastfewyearsmanypeoplecan- marine insurance?Thecostofinsuranceforboats,marinasandanythingelse good, butthebiggeropportunityisgettingBahamiansonyachts.” 78,000, yougettheideaofpotentialIspeakabout,”hesaid.“Theregistryis those jobsbyaBahamianwouldrepresenthugeleap,andifyoumultiplyone while thecrewmemberswerefromAustralia,EnglandandIreland.“Anyoneof nity togrowtheBahamianeconomy.” ing them,andguidingthemthroughsomeofourwatersrepresentsahugeopportu- and theonshoreopportunitiesforprovisioningboatwithfuelwater,clean- Bahamians forjobopportunitiesatsea.“Captains,engineers,stewards,deckhands percent growthbytheendofthisyear. area wherewecangrowitintheshortrunisyachtregistry.”Heenvisionsten said. “WeseektogrowtheBMAineveryrespect,butprobablymostsignificant sent lessthanonepercentoftheregisterBahamasMaritimeAuthority,”he code shouldhelpgrowtheBahamasMaritimeAuthority.“Rightnow,yachtsrepre- tion intheworld.” the worlddemands,thenyouwillseewehavemostbeautifulcruisingdestina- the marineenvironmentofBahamasandwhatBahamianscando contributor totheBahamianeconomy.Deveauxtoldlocalpress,“Ifyoulookat Environment EarlDeveauxsaidthatyachtingcouldeventuallybecometheleading BUSINESS BRIEFS —Continuedonnextpage varied considerably,leadingtoalargenumber ofcategoriesfuelsbeingavailable. ply chains.Inthepast,localenvironmental legislationandotherlocalconditionshave marine fuelswhichis,inturn,asignificant factor inmaritimetransportandglobalsup- dence andtransparencybetweenbuyers andsuppliersintheglobalmarketfor Prevention ofPollutionfromShips(MARPOL). implementation dateoftherevisedAnnex VIoftheInternationalConventionfor request fromtheInternationalMaritimeOrganization tohaveitreadybytheJuly1st Specifications ofmarinefuels”,thefourth editionofthisstandard,wasdrivenbya and crewhealth. higher internationalrequirementsforairquality,shipsafety,engineperformance guest experienceandhelpthemtounderstandtheimportanceofcustomercare. Burkhalter, flankingEmployeeoftheYearEnochFraser Le PhareBleu’sowners,JanaCaniga(left)andDieter As partofthestafftraininganddevelopmentprogram,specialvoucherswere During histrip,Enochwillnotonlyvisittouristattractions,butalsogainknowl- Lynn Fletcherreports:Whileothersarelookingtoreducetheirstaffcostsduringthe Le PhareBleuMarinaInvestsinItsStaff For moreinformationseeadonpage19. For decadeswehaveinsuredthousandsofboatsandmarineprofessionalsworldwide. Lower insurancecosts.Mostclientsexperiencea15percentormoresavingsin Expertise since1972.Weknowwhatwearetalkingabout.Ourstaffincludesboat- Offshore RiskManagementofferscustomizedinsurancecoverage:noneedtopay You couldbeimpactedbyreducedcoverageornoforstormdamage; In addition,insurershavepulledoutofthemarket,tightenedtheirrulesorimposed Offshore RiskManagementreports:Stormseasonishere.Doyouhavetheright Do YouHavetheRightMarineInsurance? Deveaux notedthatayachthevisitedrecentlywasregisteredintheCaymans, Deveaux alsowantstotargetboatersinFloridaaspotentialvisitorsandprepare Deveaux toldthe ISO’s workinthisareahasledtoimproved qualityofmarinefuelsandgreaterconfi- The developmentof“ISO8217:2010,Petroleumproducts-Fuels(classF) New editionsoftwoISOstandardsonmarinefuelshavebeendevelopedtomeet ISO StandardstoImproveQualityofMarineFuels For moreinformationvisitwww.lepharebleu.com. According toaJune22ndreportin Yachting CouldLeadBahamas’Economy Vastra Banken Restaurant.ThiswillenablestafftosampletheLePhareBleu Bahamas Weekly newspaperthattherecentpassageofayacht IBI Magazine , theBahamas’Ministerfor Isaac Fraser,whohas Head GardenerEnoch Year Awardwaswonby Vastra Banken board thelighthouseship Awards Ceremonyon Employee oftheYear Hog Island,andthe Staff AppreciationPartyat Development Courses,a house Trainingand of theMonthAward,in- fits includingtheEmployee Bay, Grenada,offersbene- located atPetitCalivigny Marina &BoutiqueHotel, The 2010Employeeofthe Working atLePhareBleu Restaurant. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 I’ve since left the team and now Today the spraying of “yacht- Recently I decided to enforce with its finished look, is very com- with its finished look, is very parable with a spray job. as coach I have for a long time encouraged our boatyard staff to change their method of paint application from the spray to the roller and brush, but obtaining this change took time. quality paint” has taken over and we have completely forgotten the tried and tested method of brushed paints and varnishes. But despite the apparent abandonment by users, all major manufac- turers have in their product list a paint to be rolled or brushed on. This method needs to be looked at as a cost-effective alternative. the rule in our yard: no more spray guns. In the beginning it took a little extra effort on everyone’s part to credit the quality of the prom- ised result, but rapidly, one after the other, they were convinced Continued from previous page Continued from Follow the Yellowbrick Road OC Technology, part of OC Group, the global sports-marketing company specializ- The new partnership will see all operational delivery of tracking services carried out The standard OCTracker unit will be renamed YellowbrickMAX and Yellowbrick will Since 2006, Yellowbrick have provided tracking and information display solutions For more information visit www.yellowbrick-tracking.com. RBVIYC Offers Summer Discounts The Royal British Virgin Islands Yacht Club has negotiated discounted rates for For more information visit www.rbviyc.org. Later, reviewing the figures using this application we noted the following benefits: Later, reviewing the figures using this application we noted by the spray for the boat • We didn’t have to use the costly protection required power to produce it. • We didn’t need any compressed air and didn’t use requires. • We didn’t need any of the costly equipment the spray • The men’s protection was much lighter and more comfortable. spraying the same job. • We used less than 20 percent of the paint needed for environmental • Ultimately, something we could only perceive: the negative with me of the efficiency of I am glad I was able to convince the people working I have seen many fiberglass boats ten years old and over needing care, but the I encourage everyone to try the roll-and-tip method. Simply get the proper paint The new editions of ISO 8217 and ISO 8216 will help to increase the international will help to increase the international of ISO 8217 and ISO 8216 The new editions visit www.iso.org. For more information Dock Installs New Dinghy Errol Flynn, Jamaica, will soon visiting Jamaica’s Port Antonio who anchor out while The pleas of those visitors had to bring their dinghies to the main dock Prior to the new dinghy dock, will be completed by November. It is expected the dock installation For more information visit www.errolflynnmarina.com. Painting Method Roll and Tip — the Forgotten Trinidad Ltd. shares his experience regarding this time- Philippe Richard of Aikane I was doing the job myself, I had the opportunity to Fifteen to 20 years ago, when ing in professional sailing, has signed a new strategic partnership with Yellowbrick Tracking. This establishes Yellowbrick as the leading company in the offshore yacht- tracking market with the largest fleet of Iridium-based tracking units available. by Yellowbrick, including the provision of the hardware and the on-line management system, while OC Technology will continue to market their integrated communication systems that have been developed over the last decade. now manage all the tracking operations of the combined business. The Yellowbrick units are self-contained, battery-powered, lightweight tracking devices capable of reporting a boat’s position, speed and course at pre-determined intervals, and are programmable remotely. In addition, Yellowbrick will also manage the OCTracker+ units, to be renamed YellowbrickMAX+, which allow for a hard-wired installation and extended data transfer capabilities, such as true wind speed and other data. for sailing events including the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers. yacht charter and adult learn-to-sail training this summer! Yachts are available to charter for long weekends and training is available on either yachts or IC24 keelboats. beyond my expectation by the efficiency of the roll-and-tip method during the beyond my expectation by the efficiency of the roll-and-tip painting of a 45-foot catamaran. itself and for its immediate surrounding. impact must have been drastically reduced. look further than the the roll-and-tip method. I think professionals should sometimes to actualize a job. In tip of their spray gun and try some more economical ways to those with smaller reducing the cost per job our skills can become accessible budgets and we will see an increase in our business volume. gel coat repair is not so easy due to discoloration and the spray paint is just too costly for some budgets. and the slow solvent from your supplier, ask for the data sheet and respect the application requirements to the letter; it works. harmonization of marine fuel categories and raise the bar for quality. They tighten and raise the bar for quality. of marine fuel categories harmonization technology in meet with the evolution of add new parameters to existing limits and increased stakeholder expectations. the sector and dock and by eight-foot aluminum dinghy with the installation of a 40- be answered provided by Errol Flynn Marina. The new floating 20-foot aluminum access ramp the waterfront near the marina administration building. dock will be positioned on will be able to take dock carts directly down the ramp With the ramp access, visitors their tenders. to load provisions directly into to the top of the dock. The new dock will be low profile and climb up some four feet and have ample cleats so visitors can lock their to facilitate loading and unloading dinghies to the dock if desired. by his specialist catamaran company to achieve tested method currently used any modern spray job: results that can compete with At the time, not being equipped for spray, I used the paint boats or parts of boats. rolling the paint. I later saw these paint jobs ageing simplest and easiest method: strange how unknown this paint application is, which, well and I have found it very — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 merger. WeputthemtoWCC’sCommunicationsDirector,JeremyWyatt: both pastrallyparticipantsandindependentpassage-makers—aboutthismajor will joinwithmeincelebratinganewbeginningforourevents.” continuity ofeventslikeourCaribbean1500wellbeyondmystewardship.Ihopeyou the ARCandWorldARC.Aspartofamuchlargerorganizationwecanensure European participantsinourevents,andmoreAmericansCanadianswillenter a realendorsementofourevents.Iamsurethatwewilleventuallyhavemore umbrella astheAtlanticRallyforCruisersandWorldARC.JoiningwithWCCis sailing byattendingCRA’soceanseminars. and AtlanticCupRalliesmorethan2,250crewmembershavepreparedforocean events eachyear.Todate,morethan1,200boatshavesailedtheCaribbean1500 lar oceansailingseminars.Morethan750cruisersandfutureattendCRA Atlantic Cup,areturnrallyfromtheCaribbeantoUS.CRAalsoorganizesregu- round calendarofoffshorecruisingralliesincludingtheCaribbean1500and viding informationforcruisersonallmaritimenationsoftheworld. with ARC EuropeandRallyPortugal.WCCalsorunsaseriesofseminarsinassociation pioneered bytheARC.OtherWCCeventsincludeWorldARCRoundRally, running aportfolioofcruisingralliesbasedonthefamiliarconceptsafetyandfun in 1990theRallyrelocatedtonewmarinaatRodneyBay,St.Lucia. Gran CanariatotheCaribbean.ThefirstfourARCralliesfinishedinBarbados,and 23,000 crewhaveparticipatedinthe2,700-nautical-milecoursefromLasPalmasde Since itsinceptionbyyachtingjournalistJimmyCornell,morethan4,000yachtsand cruising ralliesnowtakingplacearoundtheglobe. event. TheARCistheoriginatorofmanyWCC ARC, theworld’slargestannualtrans-oceansailing (CRA), wouldmerge. (WCC) andtheUS-basedCruisingRallyAssociation of thesetworallies,theUK-basedWorldCruisingClub passage-making rally. at aroundthesametimeaspartofCaribbean1500 embarking fromtheEastCoastofUShasarrived sailing eventthatbeganin1986. the AtlanticRallyforCruisers(ARC),atransatlantic Caribbean atthestartofsailingseasonaspart yachts embarkingfromEuropehavearrivedinthe [email protected] www.barefootyachts Interview withJeremyWyatt Caribbean Compass Steve Blacktells From January2011,theCRArallieswillberunbyWorldCruisingClub. The CruisingRallyAssociation,foundedin1990bySteveBlack,managesayear- About theCruisingRallyAssociation Since January2006,WCChasbeenanindependentevent-managementcompany Sailing eventorganizersWCCarebestknownforthe About WorldCruisingClub It wasannouncedonJune30ththattheorganizers And everyyearsince1990afleetofsome60yachts Every yearforthepastdecade,morethan200 Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL Yachting World Compass magazine, andrunswww.noonsite.com,aone-stopwebsitepro- fieldedsomequestionsfromCaribbeansailors—including

, “Iamthrilledtohaveoureventsunderthesame Tel.1-784-456-9526 /93349144Fax.1-784-456-9238 POBox39, BlueLagoon,StVincent,WestIndies eil etl •Soes •AirTravel •HotelReservations •Moorings •Boutique •BookExchange •SurftechSurf Shop •Diesel&Propane •Restaurant &Bar •Wi-Fi/InternetCafé •Showers •Laundry • On-siteAccommodation • QuiksilverSurfWear •RefrigerationWork • IslandTours •FibreglassRepairs • Ice&Water •RaymarineElectronics • VehicleRentals • Mechanical&ElectricalRepairs • DoyleSailLoft&CanvasShop Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters take agradualistapproach:smallbut A singlewebsite? name forthecombinedorganization? umbrella” take?Willtherebeanew WCC andCRA?Whatformwill“the Saint LuciainJanuary2012. the-world rally,whichwillsetsailfrom particularly WorldARC,ourround- Canadian sailorsintoourotherevents, hope towelcomemoreAmericanand participants moreeffectively,andwe America: itwillhelpustoserveour having asignificantpresenceinNorth There isanobviousbenefittoWCCin choice totakeontheCRAevents. World CruisingClubwasanatural ing seminarsandotheractivities,so CRA foranumberofyears,co-promot- more timesailing!We’veworkedwith the eventshestartedandtospend ensure thelong-termcontinuationof went intothedecisiontomerge? have agoodtrackrecord.Whatfactors ta A n u W S th p C h p A h T c W in C m th e w h JW: CC: JW: CC:

fromourperspectivewewill Inanutshell,Stevewantsto Both individualrallyorganizers How willthemergeraffect YACHT RALLY BIG Business: TO MERGE LEADERS

people whopostponedtheirdreamtrip’ and severalyearsofpent-updemandfrom attribute toimprovementsintheeconomy record turnoutforourfallrallies,whichI Steve Blacksays,‘Weexpectanall-time Right: TheCruisingRallyAssociation’s Left: JeremyWyattofWorldCruisingClub Marina, Tortola… its Caribbeanhomeport,NannyCay Above: TheCaribbean1500fleet’sinat —Continuedonnextpage to takeeffectuntil2012. announced yet,andwouldbeunlikely sponsors alike,butnothinghasbeen event forthebenefitofparticipantsand Nanny Cay,Tortola,tocreatealarger and ARCEurope,whichbothstartfrom potential tocombinetheAtlanticCup be anychangesthere.Thereiscertainly Saint LuciaandTortolasotherewillnot commitment toourportsponsorsin of passage-makingitself,orboth? mote certaindestinations,ortheactivity the combinedorganizationwanttopro- departure anddestinationports?Does various sponsors. merged groupwillhaveanevenwiderimpact,whichenhancetheofferingtoour our sponsorswithwhomweaimtomaintainlong-termworkingrelationships.The already workswithsomeCRAsponsorsandsothecombinedofferingwillbenefitall JW: CC:

We already have a long-term Wealreadyhavealong-term How will the merger affect rally How willthemergeraffectrally Portugal forover15years.WorldCruisingClub Marina deLagoshasbeenaneventsponsorin World CruisingClubformanyyears—example, and CorporateMembershavebeeninvolvedwith many sailing-relatedsponsorships,ourtitlesponsors building along-termrelationshipwiththem.Unlike hard toofferthemexposureacrossalloureventsand American accentrunningtherallies. aged fromtheUSandtherewilldefinitelybean North America.CRAeventswillcontinuetobeman- name WorldCruisingClubAmericaforourprofilein hasty changes.However,itislikelythatwewillusethe built overtheyearsandwedon’twanttomakeany stand theneedsofloyalfollowingthatCRAhas pants. Itisimportantthatweappreciateandunder- constant improvementsthatbenefitoureventpartici- JW: CC:

Wetakeaholisticviewofoursponsors,working How willthemergeraffectrallysponsors? .com

AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 readers? Compass New Services:

AIR AMBULANCE NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! THE TO ADDED JET NEW FLIGHTS TO & FROM ST. LUCIA LUCIA & FROM ST. TO FLIGHTS Since their beginnings, what changes have WCC and CRA seen in the physical Since their beginnings, what Is there anything else you would like to tell Where is the combined organization trying to go in the future — literally as well Where is the combined organization trying to go in the Can the combined organization do more to get internet access aboard vessels at Can the combined organization do more to get internet In our experience, the growth of land-based WiFi networks, especially within In our experience, the growth of land-based WiFi networks, We certainly hope that our reputation speaks for itself; our proven track We certainly hope that our reputation speaks for Well, it is far too early to be talking in detail about specific events. We cer- Well, it is far too early to be talking in detail about This is an interesting question. World Cruising Club encourages many poten- Club encourages many question. World Cruising This is an interesting Over 60 percent of the ARC fleet are between 40 and 50 feet and there is no Over 60 percent of the ARC

JW: For more information on World Cruising Club visit www.worldcruising.com. For more JW: Despite the mantra of “keep it simple” we have definitely seen the introduction of it simple” we have definitely seen the introduction Despite the mantra of “keep that people are hungry for The added complexity of modern cruising boats means one area of growth has been Demographics haven’t changed dramatically, though with each year its scope The ARC has always been an international event, but CC: JW: CC: JW: CC: JW: prepare for to help people plan and can provide a framework Our organization list”. Around it is definitely “on the bucket ARC is so well known that However, the CC: record over many years has seen both the ARC and Caribbean 1500 act as the record over many years has seen both the ARC and launch-pad for thousands of sailors into the world of offshore cruising and we look forward to welcoming even more onboard. information on the Cruising Rally Association visit www.carib1500.com. aspects of the boats (e.g. size, preparation) and in demographics (e.g. age of partici- aspects of the boats (e.g. size, How will these trends affect future plans? pants, nationalities, experience)? doubt that over the past 25 years the size of a typical cruising yacht has grown larger:doubt that over the past 25 has gone from 42 feet to 47 feet. Changes in navigationthe median size in the ARC the introduction of bow-thrusters and relatively cheap,and sail-handling technology, have all made it easier for cruisers to cope withreliable, powered anchor windlasses have recognized this trend and now produce a hugelarger boats. The boat builders the in the 40- to 50-foot category. Rising incomes and range of family cruising boats cruising yacht, thanks to mass production by builders,relative fall in the cost of a in demand for larger cruising yachts.have also added to the growth on board the typical yacht. Take communications more sophisticated technology all, When the ARC first started in 1986, most, though not equipment as an example. we Some also had an HF radio and we were lucky if of the yachts had a VHF radio. the fleet positions every two or three days. Now almost got more than 50 percent of also have an HF radio, all the boats carry a satellite telephone, around 50 percent the same trends in the use and all the boats are tracked by satellite. You could spot other areas. of refrigeration, electronic charts, power generation and as experts and a key hub information. We want World Cruising Club to be recognized for circulating knowledge and information about cruising. or two away from normal life, in the number of people taking a sabbatical — a year as “career suicide”, has now often with young families. What was once considered in Europe, recognize the become much more acceptable as employers, at least importance of a work/life balance. up of Eastern European extends further. This has been notable with the opening represented in the countries. In the 2009 event we had 32 different nationalities America and Australasia. fleet, including virtually every country in Europe, North sea, so participants can browse “noonsite” for example? A Pactor subscription service, sea, so participants can browse “noonsite” for example? for example? the Caribbean region, has changed the way cruisers use the Internet. The “go-any- the Caribbean region, has changed the way cruisers when offshore where” systems such as Sailmail are used for e-mail communications hungry” activities such as or out of range and then local WiFi is used for “band via the Internet. On noonsite. updating blogs, sending photos and researching ports via slow-speed connections. com, we find that very few users browse the site available for mobile browsers However we are planning to revamp the site to make it using smartphones. as figuratively? What events will be added/deleted from the calendars? Anything as figuratively? What events will be added/deleted new planned? rally World ARC, tainly plan to grow our American events and the round-the-world rallies. The added profile from and we are constantly looking at ways to enhance the tangible benefits for cruisers, including CRA events will help us pull together more Already one leading European for example, of key equipment, charts and insurance. because our boats are insurance company is offering lower premiums to members geographic location of our all fitted with satellite tracking devices. The dispersed to build our community online participants means that we are also looking for ways for noonsite.com. and we have some exciting developments in the pipeline tial cruisers to take the first step in expanding their cruising horizons. That they their cruising horizons. take the first step in expanding tial cruisers to good news and with or without a rally is cruise further and longer then go on to of the rallies for the original establishment ethos behind the reasons maintains the by Jimmy Cornell. other cruisers. and experiences from as well as sharing information offshore cruising and we publish community of cruisers is the hub for a worldwide Noonsite.com for Club members. advice via worldcruising.com extensive preparation to their primary reason for participation as “wanting 40 percent of ARC sailors give of just 20 percent say their major reason was to be part take part in the ARC” while a large trans-ocean fleet.

Will the merger encourage “cruising” in the sense that ARC founder Jimmy Will the merger encourage “cruising” in the sense that How will the merger affect rally participants? On June 30th you announced, On June 30th you announced, merger affect rally participants? How will the You’ve noted that that the merger will produce “the largest global organization You’ve noted that that the merger will produce “the largest A cruising rally is a fun event, but sailing is still called a sport. All our events A cruising rally is a fun event, but sailing is still called A key area in which World Cruising Club is recognized as a trend leader is in A key area in which World Cruising Club is recognized

Continued from previous page Continued from CC: JW: CC: JW: CC: Cornell understood it back in the day? Or will the combined organization be doing something different — promoting a sport or enabling the timid, perhaps? How many participants are “real cruisers” (i.e. how many continue to cruise) and how many are getting an item crossed off their “bucket list”? have an element of fun competition; it adds to the enjoyment of an ocean crossing have an element of fun competition; it adds to the enjoyment run are not ocean races; they and appeals to our participants. However the events we professional racers. We aim to are intended for typical offshore cruising sailors, not keep it that way. dedicated to the sport of passage-making”. How is passage-making a sport, exactly? dedicated to the sport of passage-making”. How is passage-making as service organizations, Historically, it seems that both WCC and CRA have acted go en masse with them. Will smoothing the way of ocean-crossing sailors who will promotion of a sport now take precedence? encouraging safety and best practice amongst cruising sailors. We invest much time encouraging safety and best practice amongst cruising ensuring that crews have the and effort promoting appropriate safety standards, to use it. We will also be look- right equipment and, importantly, that they know how of ocean sailing miles ing to share the knowledge generated from many thousands via our in-house maga- and collected in our surveys, which we pass on at seminars, zine and via online events and noonsite.com. … and the ARC fleet’s in at Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia … and the ARC fleet’s in at Rodney Bay Marina, St. Lucia “Our combined events will provide more opportunities for cruising sailors wishing to opportunities for cruising sailors events will provide more “Our combined procedures and safety standards and company, while strengthening sail offshore in Please give experience amongst cruisers.” sharing of knowledge and facilitating the some specifics. — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 that weretakenofftheentangledwhale Bottom: Someofthelines,buoysandpieceswood some minutes fishing gear,thewhalestayedclosetoboatfor Top: Afterbeingreleasedfromitsdrogueofdiscarded knots. Theboatfollowedthematadistanceforwhile Then theybeganaroutenorthatspeedofeight joined itscompanion,whohadremainedbyside. some minutesbeforeitrealizedthatwasfree.Itthen away, thehumpbackremainednexttoboatfor stayed closetotheboat.Afterlineswereallcut into theboatwhilecuttingthemoffanimal,who crew begantograbandslowlyliftthemessoflines some buoys“following”thewhale. them approachedtheboatverycloselyandhenoticed back whalesturningaroundatthesurface.Oneof (AET) onApril8ththewestcoastofGuadeloupe. the researchteamofAssociationEvasionTropicale up aroundthepectoralfinofahumpbackwhaleby buoys, anincredibletangledmess,wasfoundrolled CARIBBEAN 22% more (sea)horses 22% more ECO-NEWS Realizing whathadhappened,thecaptainandhis The captainoftheresearchboatsightedtwohump- Caroline Rinaldireports:Seventymetresoflineand Untangled! —AHumpbackWhaleReleased horsepower inthesamepackage. available M200 andM235provides than22%additional more thePerkins M225Ti isdesignedtoreplace Sabre Perkins The everything haseasyaccessforstress-freemaintenance. With Perkins’ outstandingmarinization,excesshosesandbeltshavebeen engineeredawayand with longerlifeandbetterefficiency. charger givesbetterperformanceatlowerrpms. An integralplate-typeoilcoolercombinesfewerhoses The gear-drivenfreshwaterpumphasalongerlifeandlesstogowrongwhilethewaste gateturbo TBO) andquieteroperation. versus thecompetition’s 3300rpmorhigher, theM225Ti willhavealongerlife(minimum12,000hour By comparison,ournearestcompetitiontakesthatoutofa4literengine.Runningatlow 2500rpm This largecapacity6literenginecomesinacompactpackageandonlytakesout225hp. www.partsandpower.com Call Parts&Powerforyournearestdealer: (284)4942830 transport andstorageofmarinemammalspecimens techniques andprotocolsforpreparation,handling, stranded animals; allowing formaximumchanceofsuccessfulrecovery Caribbean inmarinemammalstrandingresponse, base offindingscountriesintheregion. ment ofacentralizedarchivesamplesanddata- responders. Anotherworkshopgoalistheestablish- laborate withaninternationalnetworkofstranding Caribbean Region.Thisnetworkwillcol- Dutch/Spanish strandingnetworkfortheWider ties forcollaborationandharmonizationofaFrench/ dents formarinemammalsandtofacilitatepossibili- niques andprotocolsforrespondingtostrandinginci- Panama, inApril. Guadeloupe, inJanuary,andonePanamaCity, November lastyear,followedbyoneinBouillante, Curaçao, NetherlandsAntilles,hostedaworkshopin speaking Caribbeancountriesandterritories. been completedintheDutch,FrenchandSpanish- on-line databaseforfindings. tion, archivingofsamplesandestablishmentan relevant data,traininginmethodsofsamplecollec- response tomarinemammalstrandings,collectionof need forcapacitybuildingintheareaofon-the-ground net orvisitwww.eccnwhale.org. Eastern CaribbeanCetaceanNetwork:nath51@verizon. wanadoo.fr. Stranding Network:(690)571944orevastropic@ Guadeloupe, contacttheFrenchMarineMammals ies tomodifygear. and othertrashintheoceanworkingwithfisher- prevent entanglementbynotleavingoldnets,gear other marineanimals.Butthebesthelpremainsto already freedmorethan90greatwhalesandmany tanglement ontheUSEastCoastsince1984,having rescue teamshavebeenspeciallytrainedindisen- with extensivefieldexperiencewhales.Specific or animals.Theyshouldonlybeattemptedbythose need specifictechniquessoasnottoinjurehumans and otherseacreatures. line canbelethaltrapsformarinemammals,turtles the Caribbean.Driftingpiecesofdiscardednetsand how manymoremarineanimalsmightbeaffectedin Guadeloupe archipelagowaters.Itisdifficulttosay feeding ground? make the1,500-mile(ormore)journeybacktoits this disentanglementeffort,wouldithavebeenableto entangled andforhowlongremainmysteries.Without line andbuoysfromitsfin.Butwhereitbecame from theexperienceofdraggingmorethan40kilos to makesuretheuntangledwhalewasokay. • Trainingparticipantsintheuseofstandardized • Continuedtrainingofindividualsthroughoutthe • Establishingstandardizeddatacollectionmethods; Specific objectivesoftheworkshopsincluded: The goaloftheworkshopswastoreviewtech- Regional workshopsforstrandingresponsehave In theWiderCaribbeanRegion,thereisanurgent What ToDowithaBeachedWhale? For therestofEasternCaribbeancontact For anystrandingordistressofmarinemammalsin Disentanglement effortsareverydangerousand This eventwasthefirstofitskindrecordedin It ishopedthatthewhalewillbeabletorecover Sabre M225Ti Sabre M92B M135 M225Ti —Continuedonnextpage West Indies prizes ofbinocularsandcopiesthebook Seabirds Important?”Thepupilswillalsoreceive Eastern Caribbeanpostercompetition,“Whyare Environmental ProtectionIntheCaribbean’s(EPIC) Simmons andChristelleBrunotarethewinnersof books onnatureconservation.EmmaFarley,Jordan Martinique, havesecuredtheirschoolsEC$300for www.car-spaw-rac.org. ries andcountries. would includetheexpertcontactsfromallterrito- different strandingnetworksoftheregionandwhich base bedeveloped,whichwouldattainablebythe it wasrecommendedthataregionalstrandingdata- regional, andinternationalorganizations.Specifically, and educationalexchangeamongrelevantnational, cooperation programstoincreasescientific,technical, sions addressedthefutureestablishmentofregional forum todiscusstheirsharedchallenges.Thediscus- protection. achieving highstandardsofpopulationandhabitat capacities forsettingconservationprioritiesand maintain, withinternationalassistance,internal upon thecommitmentofcountriesheretobuildand the WiderCaribbeanRegionwillultimatelydepend mals, successfulconservationofmarinemammalsin and catalogingofstrandingevents. Cetacean Network,ensuringbettercommunication Caribbean CetaceanNetworkandSouthern networks intheCaribbeansuchasEastern and technologyinformationexchange;and, needs forstrandingresponse,analyticalcapabilities, tions, andasetpyramidofauthorization; clearly definedrolesforallinvolvedagencies/organiza- on eachislandtoorganizestrandingeventswith ensure effectivesamplecollectionforresearch; when respondingtomarinemammalstrandings Three schoolchildren,fromDominica,Antiguaand to Seabirds! Eastern CaribbeanStudentsDrawAttention A completereportofeachworkshopisavailableat The attendeesvaluedtheopportunitytohavea Because marinemammalsaretransboundaryani- • Creatingalinkwithothersub-regionalstranding • Reinforcingnationalandregionalcoordination • Establishingaclear“IncidentCommandSystem” byH.Raffaele et al . Birds ofthe AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 , Rodrick Finesse and Christine and cleaned the inner man- The first workshop took For more information visit derived information and derived information and incorporate it within science, technology and geog- raphy curricula. place in Carriacou at the Multi-Purpose Centre in Hillsborough on June 7th; the second on June 8 in Union Island at the Sustainable Grenadines Project office; the third workshop at the Canouan Government School on June 9th; the fourth workshop in Mustique on June 10th; and the final workshop at the Bequia Community High School on June 11th. www.grenadinesmarsis. com. From the website the Grenadines MarSIS dataset can be downloaded into Google Earth. Also included is a link to a YouTube video tutorial and a Google Earth Users Manual is available. Fun Hog North Star Trinidad Boaters ‘Clean and Beautify’ Steven Valdez reports: As part of the nationwide Stuart and Suzanne Dalgliesh of The Public Affairs Section of the US Embassy, Section of the US The Public Affairs 50 primary through 11th more than From June 7th that drives Google Earth, Using the same technology grove area in Scotland Bay as well as the two main grove area in Scotland Bay as well as the two main campsites. They collected more than 50 jumbo bags of mostly plastic and Styrofoam waste. The Hefty garbage bags were donated by Alston’s Marketing. —Continued on page 23 Down the Islands “Clean and Beautify Trinidad & Tobago” campaign on June 27th, several powerboat enthusiasts and members of the Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club arranged a clean-up of Scotland Bay, Turtle Bay and Chacachacare on the northwestern coast of Trinidad. Barbados and the Eastern Caribbean, provided the the Eastern Caribbean, Barbados and these workshops. funding to conduct across the school teachers from and secondary in the use of hands-on training Grenadines received Grenadines technology that created the the cutting-edge System, and Space-use Information Marine Resource system of its mapping information the first underwater kind in the Caribbean. systems technol- the powerful geographic information a PhD researcher, and ogy was used by Kim Baldwin, with the Centre for another geospatial technologist Environmental Studies at Resource Management and Cave Hill, to show teach- the University of West Indies, system (including the ers how the marine information Bank was created. 3D seafloor model) of the Grenada the teachers in the use of They also gave training to access to this locally Google Earth in order to increase and Pauline Clarke of Roger De Freitas of This information system has been collaboratively EPIC would like to thank the following conserva- to thank the following EPIC would like visit www.epicislands.org. For more information New Tools: Grenadines Marine System MarSIS The Grenadines Marine Information developed over the past five years with a range of community members within each Grenadine Island in order to provide a wide information base about the marine environment. This will allow for more informed decision- making and ultimately promote sustainable marine resource management in the Grenadines. Community members involved in this project requested that workshops be held for the teachers of the Grenadines so they can learn how Grenadines MarSIS can be shared with the school children and used by the wider public. also a crucial part of the marine environment, main- part of the marine environment, also a crucial parts of the ecosystems. In many taining healthy collapses in in seabirds have heralded world, declines fish stocks.” for the for donating prizes: SCSCB tion charities bird books Life International for the cash prizes, Bird of Birds for Society for the Protection and The Royal the binoculars. Information System System that has been is a Geographical Information scientific information with created to integrate existing of the Grenadines’ marine a variety of local knowledge for conservation and liveli- resources, areas important of underwater pic- hoods. It also includes hundred Grenadines. tures and videos across the Schoolteachers from across the Grenadines received hands-on training in the use of the first underwater mapping information system of its kind in the Caribbean

MELISSA ADAMS Continued from previous page Continued from “The entries illustrated how our next generation of Katharine explains, “The competition was to raise Katharine explains, “The competition was to raise EPIC is currently creating a Seabird Breeding Atlas Christelle Brunot of Collège Dillon 2, Martinique, Winner of the ten-and-eleven year old category is Emma Farley of Ross University Preparatory School, of Ross University Preparatory Emma Farley teachers, politicians, scientists and artists view seabirds as an integral part of island culture. Seabirds are awareness of the magnificent seabirds that live on our awareness of the magnificent seabirds that live on our islands. We received some fantastic poster entries; it was very difficult choosing the winners and so we decided to award Seabird ID cards to the runners up: Florian Magloire, Ecole élémentaire Pierre Cirille, Martinique; Melissa Adams, Kingstown Preparatory School, St. Vincent; and Linaique Legendry of Collège Dillon 2, Martinique. A special highly commended vote went to Daniel de Bruin, Lynch Plantation School, St. Eustatius and Ruth Joseph, Collège Dillon 2, Martinique. of the Lesser Antilles, which will provide much needed of the Lesser Antilles, which will provide much needed data on the breeding populations of seabirds and their distribution throughout the region. As well as field- work, Katharine and David Lowrie of EPIC undertake outreach throughout the area explaining why seabirds are important and should be conserved. wins the 12-plus category with her bold poster of a wins the 12-plus category with her bold poster of a Brown Pelican. Natalia Collier, President of EPIC, com- plimented the artist on her portrayal of the pelican gliding over a pristine sea and Christelle’s plea to Caribbean people to “protect our flora and fauna”. Jordan Simmons, of St. John’s Catholic Primary Jordan Simmons, of St. John’s Catholic Primary School, Antigua, with his striking depiction of a variety of seabird species and their relationship with mangroves. Nils Navarro Pacheco artist and coordinator of the Caribbean Wildlife Art Working Group praised the artist for his “interesting, creative and technical use of collage.” Emma’s lively poster: “This artist showed how the sea- Emma’s lively poster: “This on a healthy marine birds and humans alike depend ecosystem to survive.” Dominica, wins the eight-and-nine year old category the eight-and-nine year Dominica, wins terns. Lisa collage of breeding with her colourful Conservation of the Society for the Sorenson, President applauded Caribbean Birds (SCSCB) and Study of — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 The desire to ensure “It’s amazing! We have for the Caribbean,” Max boasts in reference to an authoritative marine biology book series. In that present and future users can enjoy such unique experiences in the area’s natural beauty is a primary reason for the establishment of the SIOBMPA. Changes are bound to invoke different reactions, but I maintain that, for the sake of long-term revitalization the ecosystem, all the science has point- ed to the need to protect and monitor the area. 85 percent of the reef fish, creatures and corals documented in Paul Humann’s reef life guides THE NATURE CONSERVANCY Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside Suitable for Large Power Yachts Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE For more information contact SIOBMPA Co-Management Board at [email protected],For more information contact SIOBMPA Co-Management Inc. as part of the Neil Ladell, MSc, is interning with the Sustainable Grenadines In the first year of operation, the SIOBMPA will trial a series of plans for which will trial a series of plans of operation, the SIOBMPA In the first year community and local livelihoods are major motivations Promoting sustainability in to Carriacou, Sandy Island and the Tyrrel Bay man- For Chris, like many visitors MPA zones. Note: the Mooring Zone marked with an asterisk is currently only a proposal, pending further management resources and safety review his opinion, as in mine, that’s something worth protecting. Just imagine what life his opinion, as in mine, that’s something worth protecting. of this area. will accompany the proper management and protection Forestry & Fisheries,or Roland Baldeo, MPA Coordinator, Ministry of Agriculture, [email protected]. Fisheries Division, Government of Grenada, (473) 440-3814, which is funded by the Coady International Institute’s Youth in Partnership Program, Canadian International Development Agency. and coral reefs that were prioritized for conservation because of their vital contribu- because of their that were prioritized for conservation and coral reefs to the entire system and quite possibly coastal and marine tions to Carriacou’s by The Nature plan jointly published In 2007, a management Grenadian Bank. health of ranked the overall biodiversity Grenada Fisheries Division Conservancy and All evidence measures for conservation. human intervention the area as requiring area. to ensure the health of the status was needed showed that protected except for boaters is that anchoring, be welcomed. One critical change feedback will Manta Ray moor- The first phase of will no longer be permitted. during emergencies, with future southeast side of Sandy Island, have been installed on the ings for boats Bay once concerns over algae building up, sea floor moorings planned for L’Esterre for been resolved. To promote safety at sea, particularly substrate and safety have scuba diving, areas around the small islands, Point swimming, snorkeling and mangroves will be “recreational only” zones. On the topic Cistern and the Tyrrel Bay continue to provide ideal boat shelter during of safety, the Tyrrel Bay mangroves the protected area is comprised of two different fishing hurricanes. The majority of promote sustainable fisheries. zones that are designed to fish One of Brian’s hopes is to see the revitalization of behind the protected area. also seine fishing tradition can be rebuilt. Efforts are populations so that L’Esterre’s local staff, particularly the area’s current resource being made to hire and train to support these efforts. In general, the role of com- users — park fees will be used of the SIOBMPA’s operations. Following a regional munity has a place at all levels conservation, the SIOBMPA is co-managed by a board trend in coastal and marine organizations, community-based organizations, gov- representing non-governmental associations. Further, to remain inclusive, the proc- ernment ministries, and private to become a board member. ess allows for any local stakeholder a of some magical moments in his life. He recalled groves conjure up memories he impressed a young visiting female diplomat by sailing youthful memory in which freshly caught fish for lunch. her out to Sandy Island’s beach where he cooked up of the mangrove estuary. More recently, he finds himself seeking the tranquillity he proclaims. “Half an hour here makes me at peace with the world,”

CHRIS DOYLE

by Neil Ladell author, Chris Doyle, he raised CARRIACOU Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 VHF: 16 [email protected] Sailor’s Guide to the Windward Islands

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Having seen all the enthusiasm from Max, Brian and many others, I was surprised Having seen all the enthusiasm from Max, Brian and many After 15 years of research, planning and community consultation the Sandy After 15 years of research, planning and community In the years that followed, a strategy was developed to protect a 787-hectare area In the years that followed, a strategy was developed to The late 1990s saw Carriacou’s marine conservation efforts gain momentum as com- The late 1990s saw Carriacou’s marine conservation efforts Max was not the only one who saw the need for coastal and marine protection aroundMax was not the only one who saw the need for coastal and When Silver Diving owner Werner “Max” Nagel first arrived in Carriacou, Grenada When Silver Diving owner Werner “Max” Nagel first arrived As mentioned above, the efforts to establish the SIOBMPA date back to the mid- As mentioned above, the efforts to establish the SIOBMPA Protected Area Marine Carriacou’s New Carriacou’s A Long Time Coming: Coming: Time A Long TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT The new marine protected area will shield the mangrove swamp from development will shield the mangrove swamp from development The new marine protected area hole but still allow its use as a hurricane ● ● ● ● ● ●

when someone greeted the area’s new protected status with scepticism. In my con- when someone greeted the area’s new protected status versation with Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA) was officially launched on July Island/Oyster Bed Marine Protected Area (SIOBMPA) was is congratulating [the Board] 31st, 2010. For Max it’s a dream come true. “Everyone “It’s been a 100 percent because we took the steps to protect the area,” he smiles. positive feedback!” encompassing the Tyrrel Bay mangroves, Sister Rocks, Mabouya and Sandy Island. encompassing the Tyrrel Bay mangroves, Sister Rocks, munity members began campaigning to “Save Sandy Island” while independent research- munity members began campaigning to “Save Sandy Island” resources. Then, in 1999,ers and the Fisheries Division assessed the status of marine Carriacou’s hallmark cay,swells from Hurricane Lenny hit with ferocity. Sandy Island, trees. Adding to the devas- was split in two and denuded of its prized almond and palm mangrove trees. Overnight, thetation, Lenny’s tsunami-like surges tore out corals and apparent than ever.need to protect the marine ecosystem had become more the island. Concerns were also spreading throughout the community and governmentthe island. Concerns were also spreading throughout the Society, recalls that theoffices at that time. Brian Whyte, of the Carriacou Historical to decline around the sameonce-popular seine fishery in L’Esterre Bay had started people from Bequia totime. He comments, “Previously [the seine fishery] attracted But the pelagic species thatUnion Island. It used to have well over 100 people involved. last 20 years.” they caught, such as jacks, have widely declined in the in 1993, he knew the vibrant coral reefs needed to be safeguarded through conserva- in 1993, he knew the vibrant coral reefs needed to be safeguarded East, Europe and throughout tion efforts. “I’ve been diving in the Far East, Middle here,” explains Max. the Caribbean but there’s no place quite like the reef 1990s — further if a 1988 government proposal is included. This process has involved 1990s — further if a 1988 government proposal is included. international organiza- the participation of community members, business owners, independent researchers, con- tions, international conservation groups, government, seagrass beds, beaches sultants and academics. The SIOBMPA contains mangroves, some important concerns that deserve clarification, particularly those that may limit some important concerns that deserve clarification, particularly of the SIOBMPA, I would like boating activities. As a participant in the establishment it. to explain the decisions behind the decision to protect AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 ners, aswellregattaorganizersandcoachesMax people tojointheSLYCsailingprogramme. Adam Foster,whoprovidedsponsorshipfor20young and regattasponsorsincludingIGYMarinamanager Lucia OlympicCommitteePresidentRichardPeterkin fleet ever. rain. TheLaserClasshadtencompetitors,thebiggest conditions includinghighwindsof23knotsandheavy aged eightto14yearswhofoughtthroughvariable morning. TheOptimistClasshadninecompetitors who racedwellinperfectconditionsontheSaturday had eightparticipantsagedsixtoten,newcomers Yacht Club. were heldJune12thand13th,hostedbytheSt.Lucia National OptimistandLaserSailingChampionships yahoo.com. of sailingasasportforallinTrinidad&Tobago. establishing amodernstructureforthedevelopment the newNationalSailingAcademywithgoalof see thefinalstagesofpreparationforlaunch summer campstilltheendofAugust.Septemberwill young sailingtalentinTrinidad&Tobago. race events,whicharevitaltothedevelopmentof Budget Marineforcontinuingtosponsortheranking Leah wontheSeasonChampions’trophy. the 420ClasstrophyforAprilterm,butFaithand Class races.AliansonThomasandNicholasKnoxtook showed theirsuperiority,winningtwoofthethree420 races thisseason.Vessigny’sFaithandLeahMoraine to developwellintheLaserClass,bothhavingwon Champion. DanielBriggsandDekifeCharlescontinue point. However,WesleytookthehonoursasSeason Wesley ScottendedwithMarkwinningbyasingle term prizeafteraverycloseseriesofracesagainst Vessigny, andRyanPetersfromChaguaramas. Stevon McSweenandShawnRamoutal,bothfrom seen excellentprogresswithracesbeingwonby Beginner Classcontinuestogrowandthistermhas confirming hisplaceastheSeasonChampion.The field intheBeginnerClass,winningbothracesand nine-year-old GeovannieLeafaisawhimsweepthe took firstplace,withMylessecondandDerekthird. in secondplace.InRaceThree,KellyAnnArrindell Kaufmann tookthehonoursagainwithDerekPoonTip ors begantogetaccustomedtheconditions.Myles second. RaceTwosawsomeclosebattlesasthesail- season’s Champion,DerekPoonTip,comingaclose first raceintheOptimistAdvancedgroup,withthis Kaufmann showedgoodspeeddownwindtotakethe which favoredthesmallercompetitors.Myles the youngracersinOptimistClasslightbreezes, and theSeasonChampions. trophies wereawardedforboththeApriltermwinners presentation ceremonywasheldaftertheracesand Budget MarineDinghyRankingRaceoftheseason.A ing dinghyracingonJune12th,duringthefinal REGATTA NEWS

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Congratulations weregiventoallsailorsandwin- The prizegivingceremonywasattendedbytheSt. This year’snewsailingclass,theBenjaminOptimist, Danielle DeRouckreports:The4thAnnualSt.Lucia National DinghyChampionships Big FleetforSt.Lucia For moreinformationcontactyouthsailingschool@ The sailingschoolisnowgeareduptorun The TTSASailingSchoolAdministratorthanked In theLaserRadialClass,MarkPeterstookApril A gutsyperformancebytheVessignyVikingsClub’s Excellent skillswereonshowinthethreeracesfrom The Trinidad&TobagoSailingAssociationsawexcit- Dinghy SeasonChamps Tight RacinginTrinidad&Tobago

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Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. ond (fourthoverall)andtheUSA’sTimothyLandtfin- place (secondoverall),St.Maarten’sFritsBuswassec- Meesemaecker sailedconsistentlywelltotakefirst third intheOpenandfifthoverall. the overallstandings.St.Barth’sMarkkuHarmalatook races, placingsecondintheOpenClassandthird tive winnerhereinthepast,wonfirstandlast worst race.Antigua’sKarlJames,afive-timeconsecu- place twiceanddroppedonlytothirdinhis won fiveoftheeightracessailed,finishedinsecond entrants. Orient. Theregatta,heldinSt.Maarten,attracted19 by HeinekenPremiumLightandhostedClub the 21stCaribbeanLaserChampionshipssponsored 18-year-old sailingsensationDennisvandenBergwon Singapore inAugust.Wewishthemallsuccess. the St.LuciateamtoYouthOlympicGamesin in Turkey,alsoJuly;andStephanieLovelltravelswith ond timeintheVolvoYouthWorldLaserChampionships June 26thtoJuly4th;JasiaKingcompetedforhersec- American OptimistChampionshipsinCanadafrom Chevrier andMarcusSweeneycompetedintheNorth Co., ChrisRenwickandHomeServicesLtd. Island WaterWorld,Bryden&Partners,JEBergasse and sailorsthanktheregattasponsors:IGYMarina, Todd andFredricSweeney.Theregattacommittee In theMasters’Class,St.Barth’sBenoit Sailing forthefirsttimewithaStandardrig,Dennis Over theJune12thand13thweekend,Curaçao’s Curaçao TeenTopsCaribbeanLaserChampionships 3) JasiaKing 2) ThomasMeixner 1) BethLygoe RADIAL LASERCLASS 3) MarcSpurway 2) RainaBergasse 1) StephanieDevaux-Lovell 4.7 LASERCLASS 3) LucChevrier 2) MarcusSweeney 1) StephanieDevaux-Lovell OPTIMIST CLASS 3) KaiWagstaff 2) AmitZevi 1) DannyDillon BENJAMIN OPTIMISTCLASS St. LuciaNationalDinghyChampionshipWinners St. LucianyouthsailorsStephanieDevaux-Lovell,Luc FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] —Continuedonnextpage 17 othersailorsfromahostoflocations. Croix, andhewonthebeginnerGreenFleetagainst David KleegerracedoutsideofhishomewatersinSt. under WhiteFleet.Thismarkedthefirstregattathat McCann fromHouston,Texas,bestedthe10-and- California, whotookthetopplaceprize.Ford Blue Fleet,itwasRomainScrevefromSanFrancisco, 13- to15-year-oldRedFleet.Inthe11-12-year-old for theBeginnerGreenFleets. completed fortheRed,WhiteandBlueFleets18 Sailing Associationsanctionedevent.Eightraceswere three USVirginIslands—setsailinthisCaribbean Rico, Trinidad&Tobago,theUnitedStatesplusall Curaçao, Canada,theDominicanRepublic,Puerto Barbados, Bermuda,Brazil,theBritishVirginIslands, Gartner wasalsothetop-scoringUSVirginIslands’sailor. while St.Thomas’NicholasGartnerplacedthirdoverall. celed onthelastdayofsailingduetostormyweather. racing andhelditwhenthetwofinalraceswerecan- Gonzalez whotookthefleetleadonseconddayof what madeitsoimportanttoconcentrate,”says through 20th.“Itwascold,windyandshiftythat’s Thomas YachtClub,USVirginIslandsfromJune18th International OptimistRegatta,heldoutoftheSt. Puerto Rico,whowonthe18thAnnualScotiabank cess for14-year-oldJorgeGonzalez,fromSanJuan, Opti Regatta Chapon paintings. times. PrizewinnerswenthomewithframedAntoine has participatedintheregattanofewerthan16 with anSMYCburgee,notingthattheamiablesailor Ferron presentedtheDominicanRepublic’sOmarBros tions. SintMaartenYachtClubCommodoreRobbie Sunday returnedtomorestable,butstilllight,condi- ing lightandshiftyconditionsonthecourse.The the Saturdayandthensuckedupallwind,creat- Looser third. Manuel Lehouxwassecond,andSt.Maarten’sErnst ished third(sixthoverall). Gonzalez’s finishalsoearnedhimafirstplaceinthe Ninety sailorsages7to15yearsfrom11nations— The USA’sDuncanWillifordfinishedsecondoverall, Carol Bareutherreports:Concentrationspelledsuc- Puerto Rico’sGonzalezWinsScotiabankInternational A squallgreetedthefleetbeforefirstraceon The RadialClasswaswonbyRodrigoDelgado, Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint Classes the Laser competitors in keen young St. Lucia’s among Bergasse are and Raina Jasia King AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

Jaystar , a century-old , a century-old Iron Duke , with Colin Syme’s , with Colin Syme’s taking third. taking third. stole victory from Paul Johnson’s stole victory from Paul Johnson’s Light Airs for Lucky Horseshoe Race in Barbados Peter “Wipers” Hoad reports: It was a Once started, the racing brain took over In the end, Ron Hunt’s J/30, Special thanks to Philip Barnard from St. hot, no-wind day in Barbados for the Lucky Horseshoe Regatta, held July 18th. Many sailors arrived on the beach to find a sea of glass with few ripples. Bajans in general don’t like sailing in less than ten knots of wind, so it took some coaxing to get them going. in three classes: J/24 (13 boats), Laser and Cruising. Crews were under pressure to get their boats going and find wind. Maximum Vincent and Robby Yearwood from Grenada for bringing their boats and crews to make the event more competitive. As usual, the Lucky Horseshoe restaurant’s after-race party makes us all win- international-youth-regatta. won Cruising Class, Jason Tindale won Laser Standard, Amy Cox topped Laser Radial, and in the J/24s Neil Burke’s Impulse Somtins Happnin Sponsorship for travel expenses came from LIAT Read more about the regatta at www.virginisland- Junior programs are making news around the are making news around Junior programs Sailing is to build a “The next step for Bequia Junior ners with free burgers and fish cutters and two hours of free drinks, topped off with live music, fun for so and fun for all. Bequia-built sailing seine boat that he used to race. that he used to race. Bequia-built sailing seine boat is to youth but Simmons admits that his dedication he lacks yacht-racing expertise. He is enthused about resources both locally and regionally. He believes recruiting young people who race and can dedicate time each week to work with the juniors will be key. Airlines, Bequia Sailing Club and Sand Pit Company. Regatta fee, lodging, meals and entertainment came from KATS (Kids and The Sea), individual volunteers, Nanny Cay Marina, Peg Legs Landing, Rotary Clubs of Tortola, and other sponsors. snewsonline.com/news/st-thomas-wins-premier’s-cup- BVI, Puerto Rico, St. Croix, Bequia and then the USA. St. Croix, Bequia and then BVI, Puerto Rico, formed including the newly Eastern Caribbean, Barbuda and Academy of Antigua & National Sailing the new mil- Rico) Junior Sailing. With Culebra (Puerto taught Youths and the Sea — which lennium, Bequia double- and sailing in local swimming, knot-tying, Eventually, it started by Bequia Rotary. enders — was Simmons. magic direction of Mackie fell under the dedication, sailing skills and Through his extraordinary called upon high school junior numbers swelled. He taking the fleet to seven, students to build two Optis, and other and utilized Sunfish, J/24s, double-enders and competency among resources to nurture interest a few years ago, the Bequia children. With his death in the process of junior program stalled. It is now Bequia Rotary, the rebuilding with support from leaders including Bequia Sailing Club and community Simmons, current Mackie’s brother, Sylvester team manager. of age and under who group of kids sixteen years the year. From that meet regularly throughout each spring to rep- group, a team can be selected Premier’s Cup Regatta. resent Bequia in the annual to build boat speed They need year-round coaching racing rules and strate- and their understanding of gy,” Simmons says. He owns Daily windsurfing and stand-up paddle races pitted and stand-up paddle races Daily windsurfing windsurfing fleet went to veteran Second in the Schurmann, the world’s “What a great week,” said or SUP to this year’s Adding stand-up paddling Bari Denney from Jupiter “Lots of fun,” said John and The next HIHO will take place June 26th through July Bequia Junior Sailing Participates in Premier’s Cup Ellen Ebert Birrell reports: With new skills and enthusi- Standing: Jamal Ollivierre, Kamol Bess and Coach Courtney Adams. Kneeling: Kimanyi James, Storm Corea, Lincoln Daniel and Cordell Adams in the SUP (stand-up paddle) class in the Highland paddle) class in the in the SUP (stand-up racers from event, which attracted Spring HIHO 2010 June 26th. a tour of the BVI starting 11 countries on races. A long-distance inter-island competitors on completed miles of competition were combined 100 Race and the 12-mile Anegada with races including Francis Drake thriller. the 27-mile Sir while Peyronnet from St. Maarten, racer Jean Marc took third. In the inau- Andrea Colombo of Switzerland Ernie Johnson claimed gural stand-up paddle class, Tom Pace in third. The second leaving Florida racer Johnson and surfing leg- top female racer was Andie overall. end Mickey Munoz was fourth “Great inter-island racing top-ranked Formula racer. and great parties!” was a huge success. The Highland Spring HIHO event in five days of racing. The paddlers covered 19 miles was the six-mile paddle Mount Everest of the week Thatch, won by USVI racer from Pelican Island to Little were the five-mile Colin Butler. Other race highlights fun relay races which Anegada coast run and the including men, included all event participants, before been on a women and kids who had never paddle board. made the trek down Paddleboarding in Florida who to the event. “We already have two full boatloads of people signed up for next year’s event!” 3rd, 2011. For more information visit www.go-hiho.com. asm, six Bequia teenagers and their coach recently returned from Tortola. The 8th Annual KATS Premier’s Cup International Youth Regatta was held July 9th through 11th. On arrival day, competitors practiced with the IC24 racing fleet. After 12 weekend races, St. Thomas came in first, edging out Anguilla, followed by , skipper team into a very respect-

, skipper Mike Hirst, and third place Brand New Second Hand Sea Hawk skippered by internationally renowned sailor Continued from previous page Continued from For full results visit www.rbviyc.com. Windsurfing and Stand-Up Paddle Through the BVI Wilhelm Schurmann from Brazil won the Windsurfing The fleet of nine boats came from Puerto Rico, the Race organizer from the Royal BVI Yacht Club, Guy Racing was challenging this year, owing to inclem- Orion of Puerto Rico Conquers Quantum IC24 Regatta Orion, A total of 13 teams participated, with six from St. A surprise fifth place went to the only youth team in Frits Bus’s St. Maarten team finished in second place Frits Bus’s St. Maarten team James relished the mixture of downpours and blus- James relished the mixture For full results, visit www.styc.net. Antigua’s James Cops Caribbean Keelboat Championship Olympian Karl Top Caribbean sailor and former Scotiabank in the US Virgin Islands has proudly the US Virgin Islands has proudly Scotiabank in Meanwhile, Puerto Rico’s eight-year-old Savannah Rico’s eight-year-old Meanwhile, Puerto Fourteen-year-old Megan Grapengeter-Rudnick, Megan Grapengeter-Rudnick, Fourteen-year-old to St Thomas boat Class while Californian Lance Erickson took top honors US Virgin Islands and the BVI. Second place went to BVI boat Phoenix, commented: “We were delighted that so many boats entered the regatta, particularly given the bad weather. We hope that next year we can build on the success of this year’s events and see even more countries represented. Special thanks to the event sponsors, Quantum Sails, who remain faithful supporters of this event.” ent weather. Courses had to be reset several times as a result of changing wind directions, and wind speeds varied between zero and 25 knots. Chris Curreri. Fraito Lugo from Puerto Rico, won this year’s Quantum Fraito Lugo from Puerto Rico, won this year’s Quantum IC24 International Sailing Regatta hosted June 19th and 20th by the Royal BVI Yacht Club. Maarten and seven from Antigua, Curaçao, Trinidad, and St. Barth’s. the regatta, skippered by 15-year-old Jolyon Ferron and crewed by Saskia Looser, Stephen Looser, and Rhone Findlay. The youth team was invited “for the experience” to make up the correct number of entrants for the regatta. To their credit they matched their peers tack for tack, winning two races and finish- ing in second place twice. “We were expecting last or second last, so we’re very pleased,” said Jolyon, who added it was the first time the four had sailed together as a team. able fourth place. for the fourth time in a row, this time after breaking the for the fourth time in a row, tie for third place with Chris Marshall’s Gill team. Simon Manley steered Scuba Shop tery conditions in the Simpson Bay Lagoon that made tery conditions in the Simpson unpredictable than ever, racing the Sunfast 20s more skills have been honed no big deal for James whose of Antigua. in the equally shifty Jolly Harbour James’s Antiguan team turned in a typically masterful James’s Antiguan team turned One Design show to win the two-day Marlow held in St. Caribbean Keelboat Championship, never dropping below Maarten June 19th and 20th, sailed. third in any of the 18 heats served as title sponsor of the Scotiabank International served as title sponsor of the This youth regatta is the Optimist Regatta since 1992. in the Caribbean. largest annual event of its kind Baus won the Chuck Fuller Sportsmanship Award. Chuck Fuller Sportsmanship Baus won the from Connecticut, USA, finished as Best Female and USA, finished as Best Female from Connecticut, the Pete also won fifth overall. Grapengeter-Rudnick prow- for a combination of sailing Ives Award, given attitude determination and good ess, sportsmanship, the water. both on and off — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 charts. Fairtides! tide thefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 2112 2021 1929 20 1835 19 1740 18 1646 17 1553 16 1501 15 1419 14 1316 13 1222(new) 1126 12 1027 11 0927 10 0827 9 0728 8 0633 7 0542 6 0455 5 0411 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME August For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill w ExclusiveLinktoYachts forSale LatestCruisingNews&Notes 100sofBoatReviews Weather Forecasts Worldwide Marine 2Free Issuesof √ √ √ √ √ √ MERIDIAN PASSAGE BWS Online Resource AUGUST &SEPTEMBER2010 w Blue Water Sailing Water Blue World Cruiser’s OF THEMOON ww. The World’s BestCruisingMagazine ’s CruisingClassiﬁeds ..bwsailing.co b 1124(new) 1100 1005 0908 8 0810 7 0712 6 0614 5 0519 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME September 31 0427 0210 30 0338 0129 29 0253 0049 28 0008 27 0000(full) 26 2327 25 2244 24 2159 23 22 21 w s a i l i n magazine g 8 0315 30 0504 0224 29 0408 0137 28 0052 27 0009 26 0000(full) 25 2328 24 2248 23 2207 22 2126 21 2043 20 1957 19 1908 18 1816 17 1752 16 1627 15 1531 14 1435 13 1341 1247 12 11 10 9 . c o m —Continuedonnextpage simply atriggerontheendoftubestowed inthelazarette. and bunksbecamesoakingwet,itwas gettingremarkablycold. below andsoguitar,squeeze-boxbooks werethrownallovertheplace.Bedding watertight werelettinginwater.Ihadfailed tosecurepersonalstuffproperlydown boat, wereoftenunderadepthofwater anddeckhatchesthathadappearedtobe another matter. generated inmid-Atlantic,especiallywith astrongwind-over-tidesituation,are the wind.ThirtyknotsofwindisnotsounusualinCaribbean,butseas more, andtheseasbecamehugewhenstrongfull-mooncurrentturnedagainst is prospectofheavyweather.Aswesailednorth,windswereoftenupto30knots or the systemsorsuggestingtheystopandheavetountilfrontshadpassedthrough. sure savedmanyofthemgettingintofoulweatherbyroutingeitherawayfrom developing astheymovednorthtowardsBermuda.HisadvicetootheryachtsI am systems comingofftheUSEastCoast,seeminglyemanatingfromGuatemala and yachts ontheirwaytotheAzores.Herbhadhisworkcutoutasthereweresomenasty have givenusdetailedweatheradviceforourarea,ashewasdoingabout20other Hilgenberg intheafternoons.HadwecheckedpersonallywithhimonSSBhewould making good165milesinthefirst24hours. head offduenorth,sowhydropdowntoleewardAnguilla?Werompedalong, from there.ButonleavingAntiguawehadabrisk25-knoteasterlyandwereable to December 2009issuesof previously refittedinCarriacou( Europe —buthehadn’theededLucy’swarningsorfollowedhisownadvice… this on and trysail.“Andit’scold,”shesaid,“thermals,fleeces,oilskinsneeded.”And of 30knots,reaching40andhugeseas. magnificent 140-footFrers-designed meet upwiththenewownerof was goingtobeluxury. Holman-designed sloop,hadbeensinglehandedandnoproblem,sohavingtwoofus wind vanesteeringgear.Mylastcrossing,aboard me) andveryeasytohandle(ditto).WehaveanautopilotexcellentSailomat The authorsetoutfromAntiguaaboardhis50-footschooner, course andgettingouttheoldsextantfortimes’sake. playing abitofmusic,readingsomebooksatleisure,doingfewsailchanges benign weatherandIwaslookingforwardtomoreofthesame,catchingsomefish, Samadhi, spect, complacentaboutthepreparationofmy50-footSciareli-designedschooner, the 2009-2010seasonandhavingtakenpartinvariousregattas,Iwas,retro- seriously. Ididn’t. Rebecca Caribbean, twoofwhichwedidtogether,andforhertobesignedonascrew gent inthatmatter.LucyhasmadenumerousAtlanticcrossingstoandfromthe Antigua, soitwasjustthetwoofus. the timewewerereadytogo,mostofcrewseekingpositionshadfledfrom tion thatIdid.Thepotentialthirdcrewmemberwasultimatelynotavailableandby and Ihavesailedalottogetherhavinghimonboardwasthebestbitofprepara- An AtlanticCrossing,ThatIs How NotToDoIt… Cobbler’s Bootsor, The onlypressurizedfreshwateron My lackofpreparationwassoonexposed. Thedecks,onwhatisanormally“dry” When weleftAntiguaonMay20thitwasthetimeoffullmoon—notidealifthere I wastakingforecastsfromvariousUSCoastguardstationsandlisteningintoHerb Lucy didwarnme,phoningfromHorta,havingjustarrivedascrewonthe Our initialintentionhadbeentosailfromAntiguaAnguilla.InAnguillawecould After sailingsome1,500milesupanddowntheEasternCaribbeanislandsduring Lucy mademepromisetoalwaysbeclippedon;sheknowsIamsomewhatnegli- Samadhi My crew,James,flewoutfromtheUK,havingtakenamonthofftodotrip.He Rebecca showsthatsheknowsathingortwo.Herwarningsshouldhavebeentaken fortheAtlantic.MypreviousfiveAtlanticcrossingshadbeeninrelatively , withherschoonerrig,isbeautifullybalanced(morethancanbesaidfor . Compass), waitforagoodlong-rangeforecast,anddepart by FrankPearce see “TheTraditionProject”intheOctoberthrough Tradition Rebecca Samadhi , the50-footCarriacousloopthatIhad . Shetoldmeofpredominantwinds istothe“shower”incockpit: Rebecca Whirlaway hadreducedtostormjib Samadhi , a42-footteak-hulled

, boundfor KENMORE HENVILLE KENMORE AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Once behaved won- — I’ll listen next Samadhi , at 290 feet overall, had Samadhi many years ago. Read their book Maltese Falcon Tzu Hang for it. Sorry Lucy, sorry seemed to be coping well enough. Then she fell off two seemed to be coping well enough. Samadhi lifted to each of the huge seas and scudded down their backs. lifted to each of the huge seas and scudded down their Samadhi Samadhi , being a very “sea kindly” yacht, would have jogged along and no doubt is back in Grenada, all the repairs have been done and she is stronger : photographs of impact damage to their deckhead caused by flying tools Samadhi Samadhi but that’s what it was.) We were then about 500 miles out of the Leewards, but that’s what it was.) We were then about 500 miles

Continued from previous page Continued from Many other yachts safely made the crossing at that time; some others turned back. • A word about eggs! I simply stowed them in a locker in the forecabin. Bad place. • Admittedly, we never came near to that, but we did find that moving about in the • As a rule of thumb I have often asked clients to consider what will happen in the • I should have had heavy-duty storm sails. An inner forestay with hank-on storm • I should have checked the watertight integrity of hatches and skylights with a What conclusions can one draw from the experience? • Firstly, I should not have left at a time when I was really tired. This would also But, why “Cobbler’s Boots”? This could be called “Don’t do as I do, do as I say” but, Eventually the seas calmed down and we even had to do a bit of motoring. When Eventually the seas calmed down and we even had to Taking hourly stints on deck we sailed through the night. Taking hourly stints on deck we sailed through the night. We dropped the main, took more rolls in the now very little jib, then the windWe dropped the main, took more rolls in the now very Notwithstanding all the forecasts available to us, there had been no mention ear- Notwithstanding all the forecasts available to us, there We called up coastguard weather on the sat phone, gave our position and received We called up coastguard weather on the sat phone, gave Time for a council of war. “What you thinking, James?” “I was thinking how nice Time for a council of war. “What you thinking, James?” A potential Tropical Cyclone was heading up towards Bermuda. (It truthfully could A potential Tropical Cyclone was heading up towards At the time we had no foremain set, had three reefs in the main and a tiny bit of set, had three reefs in the main and a tiny bit At the time we had no foremain Inspection below showed that a forward bulkhead had fractured in way of the fore- Inspection below showed that On past trips from the Caribbean to the Azores, I have preferred to be about 500 to the Azores, I have preferred to be about 500 On past trips from the Caribbean Lying in my bunk, I heard the unfamiliar noise of water sloshing through the main noise of water sloshing through I heard the unfamiliar Lying in my bunk, I had just carelessly dropped it into the lazarette. Later, when going to use the lazarette. Later, when going dropped it into the I had just carelessly than ever. Hopefully we will have taken part in the Carriacou Regatta Festival by the time this is read and can look forward to visiting Portugal next year. Now Upon our return I found each and every egg was rotten and the yolks broken; I can only assume it was the severe motion that had scrambled them within their shells. saloon became an acrobatic feat, largely because of insufficient handholds. Being thrown across the saloon to collide with the table could so easily cause injury. With big, beamy boats placement of sufficient handholds needs to be a serious consideration. is Enough and so on are alarming to say the least. event of a serious knockdown, something that would not have been unlikely in the wind and sea conditions we experienced. Will the cooker fall off its gimbals? What about batteries, gas cylinders and all that heavy gear in the bilges, maybe a spare anchor and chain, tools, portable generator, and the cabin sole itself — stuff nor- mally secured by gravity that will fly up into the deckhead if she falls over badly? It happened twice to the Smeatons on we would have avoided the damage caused by my driving her fast through big seas. jib and a storm trysail would have been so reassuring. With a small strong rig like that, serious hose test. have avoided sailing at the time of full moon. like the old cobbler who walks around with the soles of his shoes hanging off, I as a Marine Surveyor had failed to follow the advice and requirements that I would request of others. Maybe it’s not a bad thing for the likes of myself to go to sea seriously now and again, if only to reaffirm my beliefs in how a vessel should be prepared. time, promise! And thank you, James, for never being critical of my shortcomings in time, promise! And thank you, James, for never being preparation, for always being cheerful and positive. the rain cleared we got stuff on deck to dry out and started to get warm again. Three the rain cleared we got stuff on deck to dry out and started even if somewhat chastised days later we were in Anguilla and pleased to be there, for not having assumed bad by our experience and me being very cross with myself weather and prepared derfully and gave no cause for alarm, but would that scrap of jib hold out? It did, derfully and gave no cause for alarm, but would that the heavy overcast clouds. and in the morning we dramatically sailed out from under more heavy rain and poor vis- The wind, of course, then went to the southeast with dead on the nose? ibility. But what else could we expect this trip but wind increased to more than 40 knots again. The size of the seas was something that inincreased to more than 40 knots again. The size of the before encountered. If it were55-plus years of sailing (help, am I that old?) I had never believe that James had a grinnot a tad worrying it would have been exhilarating. I do on his face as lier of a feeder band, like a trough, extending west to east about 30 miles south of lier of a feeder band, like a trough, extending west to when we had decided to head us. I could hardly believe what I was hearing. Just in our way. Well, we’d south and get out of it, here was this belt of serious weather through it and hope nothing either heave to and wait for it to pass over, or sail south blew out. been checking in with Herb and he had advised them to stay in Bermuda and let the been checking in with Herb and he had advised them weather settle down.) a most worrying report. Without exaggeration, they warned of seas up to 25 feet. Yes, a most worrying report. Without exaggeration, they warned had to stop and heave to really. Okay, moderating, but I should hope so! We either some damage, we decided on or turn and head south. With 2,000 miles to go and the latter. (It had been a trifle worrying that the Caribbean is!” about 400 miles southeast of Bermuda. not be called a Tropical Cyclone until after the start of the hurricane season on June not be called a Tropical Cyclone until after the start of 1st, jib; there was not much left to reduce. We really needed a strong storm jib hanked to reduce. We really needed a strong storm jib hanked jib; there was not much left we had. Using the 110-per- on to an inner forestay and a storm trysail, none of which the set of the sail is cent genoa rolled to pocket-handkerchief size is not satisfactory: is not really strong enough. bad, it is halfway up the forestay and the material the foil was not a safe option Changing down to a smaller yankee set in the groove of in this amount of wind with only two crew. mast and there had been movement of other joints in the interior joinery work. mast and there had been movement monster waves with sickening crashes. As I felt her lift over each wave and then crashes. As I felt her lift over each wave and then monster waves with sickening waiting for her to “land” — ouch. become airborne, I lay there miles east of Bermuda to keep clear of dirty weather to the west. Then I kept going clear of dirty weather to the west. Then I kept going miles east of Bermuda to keep — North, before heading due east for the Azores north until about 39 degrees weather outlook. With so much northerly in it, we were depending of course on the up fine until during one night, when winds were again hard on the wind, which was started to run against the wind and suddenly the seas to about 35 knots, the current slowed her down or even hove to, but from the comfort became huge. I should have of my bunk (again!) bilge. Lifting the cabin sole I was alarmed to see how much water there was there. to see how much water cabin sole I was alarmed bilge. Lifting the floorboards and running, we lifted up the of winds with huge seas In 35 knots After moving where it was coming from. last dregs of water to check pumped out the crawling in beside the engine we eventually found water stuff around to gain access, is from right aft. How could that be? The lazarette hatch was draining into the bilge rushing down the side decks, along the cockpit coam- on the aft deck. Seawater was — in doing so passing over the lazarette hatch. This hatch ing and flooding overboard yet. James caulked the hatch with rubber extrusion had never needed to be sealed, and the ingress of water stopped. shower, I found the pump was not working. Why? The trigger had caught on some- Why? The trigger had the pump was not working. shower, I found long and the for goodness knows how pumping out our fresh water thing and been we lost? Maybe how much water have blown. Never mind the pump, pump fuse had good news. tank, half of our supply. Not one complete — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 grow inabundance. — mango,breadfruit,bananaandpapayatreesall course. Theroadsidesarecoveredintropicalfoliage locals andamapkeptusfromveeringtoofarour trip. Roadsignswerefewandfarbetweenbutfriendly noises itwasmakingbuthungintherefortheentire The cargaveusgreatcauseforconcernwiththe into therainforestmoretrack-liketheybecame. main roadswerefullofpotholes,andthedeeperwegot Roseau, anddroveupintothetropicalrainforest.The opportunities andthenhungaleftatthemaintown, coast oftheisland,stoppingoccasionallyforphoto in, plusDarwin, morning wewereonourway.Thefourofussqueezed day seeingsomeofthisbeautifulisland. and Liesbeton only plannedtostaythenight,butourfriendsMark lined withpalmtrees,localbarsandrestaurants.We beautiful darksandbayatthenorthofisland, Inset: Colorfulheliconiablossomsaccenttherainforest cascades atTrafalgarFalls Main photo:The‘Mother’,oneoftwomagnificent 11‘2“ (340cm)99lb(45kg) 10’2” (310cm)92lb(42kg) 8’10” (270cm)86lb(39kg) 7’10” (240cm)75lb(34kg) 6’ 7”(200cm)46lb(21kg) AVAILABLE: Transporthasneverbeeneasier–withnofloorboards And so,acarwasarrangedandby8:00 I AirDeckboatscanbestowedmostanywhere.

Portsmouth inPrinceRupertBay.It’sa Alianna Dominica. SimeonHoggarthandIanchored want totellyouaboutouronedayin • Airfilledfloormakeskneelingorsittingextremelycomfortable Irie • Easytocarry25%lighterthanwooden-floorinflatables , our1983Corbin39,bythetownof Irie’s encouragedustospendatleastone dog.Wedrovedowntheeast @ DUTY-FREEPrices & 4-Stroke) 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke ENGINES: FEATURES AM thenext : DOMINICA MARINECENTER [email protected] Mercury Marine,YanmarMarine Sailmaker, SeaChoiceProducts Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Fax: 767-448-7701VHF16 18 Victoria Street, Roseau 18 VictoriaStreet,Roseau 767-448-2705 ExtMarine Budget Marine,Doyle where wecouldsitandrest.Anotherstreamofwater ing waterfallandarockthatbaskedinsunshine of blues.Attheenddeepgorgeareasmallgush- cliffs oneitherside,thewaterreflectingakaleidoscope clear waterwiththesunsparklingdownthrough the gorge.Weswamupnarrowgapindiamond walk alongariverleadstowidepoolcomingoutof ing traffic,astheseroadsareverynarrow. stop, TitouGorge.Weweregladtherewasnooncom- thank goodnessitwasn’training—towardournext like theycouldturnintolandslidesatanyminute— running downthemountainsides. Huge woodenpipesametreindiametercanbeseen power providing40percentofDominica’selectricity. dam atthelakeservesassourceforhydroelectric in athickmistandthetemperaturewascool.Asmall ery. Thelake,thehillsandtreetopswerecovered ger liliesaddingsplashesofcolourtothelushgreen- ing wildanddistinctiveredheliconiaflowersgin- forest but“cloudforest”,withfernsandmossesgrow- Dominica. Weweresohighwenolongerinrain- lakes, aptlynamedFreshwaterLake,thelargestin Above: PrinceRupertBay Dominica, WI Dominica, WI Titou Gorge(“littlethroat”)isalovelyspot.Ashort We thenheadedthroughmuddyroadsthatlooked Our firststopwasatoneoftwofreshwatercrater ONE DAYIN

DOMINICA Dealer: Agent: Below, right:Thetrekkers—Simeon,Liesbet, ALL ASHORE… Phone: (58-281)267-7412Fax: 2677-810VHFChannel71Webpage: by RosieBurr

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Mark andDarwin marina internacional ElMorroTouristComplex Lat. 10°12 No hurricanes270sq.milesofcalmseas Fullamenities http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail: [email protected] ' 24"NLong.64°40 for a5:00 ing backtotheboatandanearlynightinpreparation last KabulibeeratBigPapa’sRestaurantbeforehead- Portsmouth, dropthecaroffandmaketimeforone century FortYoung,whichisnowarathernicehotel. Government housesandthelibrary,aswell18th visited before,showedusacoupleofchurchesand roadside. BackinRoseau,MarkandLiesbet,whohad orange, mangoorbreadfruitthathadfallenbythe back toRoseau,stoppingbrieflypickuptheodd barely anotherpersoninsight. luxuriating inthetherapeuticwarmth—againwith that runalongsidetheriver.Webathedinthesepools, springs thatformaseriesofsmallconnectingpools steep rockface.Atthebaseofthesefallsarehot that crossestheTitouGorgefallsdown200feetof the rightisfasteranddenser“MotherFall”.Water first, tallerandthinner,iscalled“FatherFall”to saw notjustonebuttwospectacularwaterfalls.The and setofftoournextspot,TrafalgarFalls.Herewe price butstillmorethanwehadoriginallybeentold. taken advantageof.Theownerfinallyagreedtoalower but wecouldn’thelpwonderifwerebeing originally beentold.Perhapsitwasagenuinemistake, wrong andthatitwasmorethandoublewhatwehad when thefoodarrivedweweretoldtheygotprice turned upandwasveryfriendlywithus.However in advanceandorderedaccordingly.Theownerthen hospitality. Wehadaskedthegirlpriceoffood say thiswasouronlybadexperienceofDominican shut owingtothelackofcruiseshipsthatday.Sad where wefoundalocalrestaurantopen,manybeing made ourwaytoasmallvillagecalledWottonWaven, had thewholeplacetoourselves. crisp waterourfeetwerestandingin.Bestofall,we thanks tohotsprings—asweetcontrastthecold cascades fromaboveintothepool;thisoneiswarm Now itwastimetoheadbackupthecoast As thedaystartedclosinginonuswemadeourway Despite thiswestillhadtherestofdaytoenjoy After allthiswewerestartingtofeelhungryand AM ■ startforournextisland. PuertoLaCruz ■ Venezuela ' 5"W AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

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d O a T R n E The entire distance of the hike is To start, take the bus to Capuchin. The trailhead is marked with a a U about five miles and will take about three to four hours depending on your pace. You can get the bus at the bus “station” in Portsmouth or just start walking toward the town of Tanetane and flag down a bus going to Capuchin. There are more buses in the early morning when the children are going to school. Ask the driver to let you off at the trailhead for the trail to Pennville. You may have to walk the last quarter mile because the trailhead is at the end of the road, past the village of Capuchin and the buses don’t usually go quite that far. large sign stating that the trail is x P

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R : L about one mile The trail ends on the road between Pennville and Portsmouth O E Segment 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project. There are trail markers Segment 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project. and sub-segment, for painted on trees with red paint that have the segment was confusing was at the example SEG 13/14. The only point on the trail that trail makes a turn to the trail marker that noted SEG 13/17. At this point the less straight, through a right, but there is a very clear trail that goes more or the trail through the field freshly cleared field. If you take the diversion to go off and will have to double you will end up in an old citrus and coffee plantation back to the trail. back for the five miles to west of Pennville. You can catch a bus or hitch a ride Portsmouth. It took us about an hour to get to a corner where the trail levels off a bit and gives where the trail levels off an hour to get to a corner It took us about the forest and tall trees with a few openings to provide The trail continues through is the contour of the hillside. The last third of the hike As the trail continues it follows end by a few men who were building a small fiber- We were greeted at the trail’s TEL: 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL : [email protected] : [email protected] 58 (281) 265-3844 - E-MAIL TEL: T C CORNER: MIRANDA CORNER: THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY SINCE 1990 THE CRUISING SAILOR`S CHANDLERY AMERON ABC 3 TIN FREE SELF POLISHING ANTIFOULING PAINT AMERON

December 2009. The first section of the trail ascends for about one hour through trail ascends for about one The first section of the December 2009. There were over the trail providing shade. Large trees tower undisturbed rainforest. all of the man- was terribly frustrating that trees along the trail and it many mango testament to fruit on the ground served our reach. The half-eaten gos were beyond ripe fruit above our heads. the bounty of We imagined day you can see Guadeloupe. north — on a clear you a view looking sugar, fruit and horses or donkeys taking had been a wagon trail for that the trail are trail mark- market. Along the way there plantations and down to coffee out of the were deter- not clear how the sub-segments red paint on trees. It is ers painted with periodically. The markings noted the trail system seg- mined, but we did see them (e.g. SEG 13/14). ment (13) with a sub-segment makes a turn to the right, and there is a very clear views. At SEG 13/17 the trail this straight, through a freshly cleared field. If you take trail that goes more or less cof- the field you will end up in an old citrus and diversion off the trail and through by at not being able to reach the mangos was abated fee plantation. My frustration and filled our bellies and backpacks with grapefruit the plentiful grapefruits. We back to the main trail. sour oranges and doubled youwhere you can see just about every fruit and vegetable through cultivated hillsides and We chatted with a few men tending the fields see in the local market at Portsmouth. our We were a bit reluctant to add more weight to one fellow offered to sell us plantains. dug out a few EC coins and tucked away our plantains. citrus filled daypacks, but we told a water spigot where we washed up a bit. The men glass fishing boat. There was flag of a mile to Pennville to catch the bus, but to just us not to go the three-quarters a west. We flagged down an empty school bus and got down any bus or truck going ride back to Portsmouth. PENNVILLE by Devi Sharp

CAPUCHIN CAPUCHIN FROM TO The trail starts as a two-tire-wide track and rapidly becomes a one-track trail. In The trail starts as a two-tire-wide track and rapidly becomes The trailhead is the end of the road, so getting started is easy. Our driver let us off The trailhead is the end of the road, so getting started I was sure we could not fit six more people in the little bus, maybe three or four, I was sure we could not fit six more people in the little March of 2010 the trail was in very good condition because it had been cleared in March of 2010 the trail was in very good condition because about a quarter mile from the trailhead, which has a large sign stating that the trail about a quarter mile from the trailhead, which has a The Waitukubuli National is Section 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail Project. 14 segments, numbered from Trail covers the entire island of Dominica and has about 115 miles long. Some south to north. When completed the trail system will be the forest. The trail will link segments are on roads and others are on paths through Carib people, as well as many tracks and trails which were first cut by the Kalinago of years ago. The trail routes used by slaves to access sugar plantations hundreds of the Commonwealth system is being developed through a project of the Government Council of Martinique of Dominica implemented in partnership with the Regional “long is her body” — the and funded by the European Union. Waitukubuli means Carib name for Dominica. but not six. It appeared that all of the seats were occupied. Not to worry, in a few but not six. It appeared that all of the seats were occupied. out of the bus, seating rear- seconds and with a bit of island magic, everyone was drive from Portsmouth to ranged and we were guided into seats for the hilly go to the trailhead to hike to Capuchin. We told the driver that we would like to that six “tourists” with hats, Pennville and he said no problem. I guess it was obvious for a hike. sunglasses, daypacks and walking sticks were bound Hiking the North End of Dominica: the North End Hiking AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 Steel PanFestival. place inAdultPanorama(despitebeingjuniors)atthe2010MontrealInternational rable andentertainingnight. Chaguaramas fordonatingtheticketsandtransport,givingusatrulymemo- delighted withtheeventandespeciallygratefultolocalbusinesses in ful expressionoftheuniquemusicaltraditionsTrinidad.Allcruiserswere guys, jumpatit. of dewordintheriddumworld”.Ifyougetchancetoseethesetalented another uniquelyTrinidadianmusicaltraditionandhasbeendescribedas“depower Canal’s energeticandrhythmicperformancehadusalltappingourfeet.Rapsois rapso. Itisraretohearacompletelyuniquemusicalstyleforthefirsttimeand3 however, camefrom3Canal,withtheirexoticblendoflyricsanddanceknownas and heartfeltperformancewasajoytoshare.Perhapsthemostsurprisingsound, powerful singingvoicethatliftedusoutofourchairs.TheLydianChoir’sbeautiful tional steelpanformanyyearsandaretheorganizersofinternationalfestival. in Montreal,Canada,forthepast35years.Theyhavebeenatforefrontofinterna- “Thriller”, showingofftheversatilityofinstrument. from traditionalTrinidadianpanmusictoagreatcoverofMichaelJackson’s music itsuniquesound. including soprano,alto,tenor,baritoneandbassthiscombinationgivesthe strobe tuners,anartforminitsownright.Thepanfamilycomesmanypitches evolved andmoderninstrumentsarecustom-madefromsheetsteeltunedusing oil drum,cameintobeing. It wasn’tuntilthelate1940sthatrecognizablesteelpan,madefroma55-gallon to createrhythmsdeeplyrootedinthedrummingtraditionsofbothAfricaandIndia. able sticksmadefrombamboo.Thesewerehitontothegroundorwithother including soca,vintagekaiso,andfolk. support thefundraisingeffortandaudiencewastreatedtoavarietyofstyles were, quitesimply,brilliant.Theseworld-classmusiciansdonatedtheirtimetohelp be myfirsttimeatapanyard. and, ofcourse,greatmusic.I’vebeentoTrinidadmanytimesbutthiswasgoing tropical jungle,unspoiltbeachesandgreatlocalfoodstotheworldfamousCarnival out andgetworkdoneontheirboatbutTrinidadhasmuchmoretooffer,fromdense their freeticketsfromCarlos.ManycruisersknowTrinidadasagreatplacetohaul Only MaxiTaxi&Tourskindlyprovidedfreetransporttoandfromtheevent. nesses inChaguaramasordertopurchaseticketsandJesseJames,ofMembers Fenton, ofAlphaUpholsteryandCanvas,garnereddonationsfromseveralthebusi- Orchestra toattendthe2010MontrealInternationalSteelPanFestival.Carlos businesses inChaguaramas,andaveryenjoyablenightwashadbyall. ful nightatasteelpanyardinSt.James,Trinidad,courtesyofnumberthelocal been inventedinhislifetime.OnJune5th,visitingcruisersweretreatedtoawonder- — Trini Style Musical Expressions PS TheStarliftJuniorSteelOrchestrawonfirstplaceinPanoramaandsecond Every performancewasexcellentandthevarietyofstylesondisplayawonder- Marilyn Williamstreatedustoaperformancefullofhervibrantpersonalityand Next upwereSalahandAdiylahWilson,bothnativeTrinidadians,whohavebeenbased The eveningkickedoffwiththeStarliftJuniorbandplayingavarietyofpieces, Since then,newmethodsofconstructionandmostimportantly,tuning,have Steel panwasinventedinTrinidadandevolvedfromtamboo-bamboos,beingtune- Cruisers gatheredoutsidetheofficeofMembersOnlyinTropicalMarinatoreceive The “MusicalExpressions”eventwasafundraiserheldfortheStarliftJuniorSteel Shakespeare mightwellhavesaidsomethingsimilaraboutoildrumshadsteelpan P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, WilliamShakespeare Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 E-mail: [email protected] should halesoulsoutofmen’sbodies? Is itnotstrangethatsheep’sguts WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL West Indies. (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 by StephenAspey BP RenegadesYouthOrchestrawho Rapso style,andtheaward-winning Choir; 3Canalwiththeirspectacular Williams; theworldfamousLydian cians, includingsoloartistMarilyn of Trinidad&Tobago’sbestmusi- in therealheartofTrinidad. and loveoftheirmusic,wastoshare ed kids,sofullofenergy,teamspirit them isanartist.Toseethesetalent- from ageseightto16andeveryoneof Orchestra ismadeupofyoungsters make. TheStarliftJuniorSteel fully tunedandplayedsteelpancan ate theincrediblesoundthataskill- band thenyoucan’tbegintoappreci- ... The eveningwassupportedbysome If youhaven’theardagoodsteelpan CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY Pans visitwww.hotpans.se. acquainting Swedenwithoneoftheindigenous artformsofTrinidad&Tobago. Pans, SweetPansandTaxiStand,which arejustsomeofthesteelpanbands knowledge inschoolsandcommunities. AfterHotPanscametheoffspring:Cool ferent functionsandparties.”Theyare alsopassingontheirsteelpanskillsand Pans steelbandhasbeenontheSwedish musicscene,regularlyperformingatdif- and eventuallysomeotherEuropeans.And soHotPanswascreated.Sincethen it wasonlySwedishplayers.Graduallysome TrinidadiansresidinginSwedenjoined played inthebandbuthewasimportant inguidingtheband,”saysAnna.“Atfirst pannist Rudy“Twoleft”Smith,awell-knownjazzmusicianonthepan.“Henever pans thatwereleftbehind.OneTrinidadianwholivedinSwedenatthetime was Anyway, fourofthemcamewithouttheirpans,sotheymadethepansinSweden”. called themMerryMakers.ButitwasnottheoldMakers,newone. tour ofSwedenwithamixturemembersfromdifferentbands.Theytouredand we ed toworkwiththeSwedishGovernmentConcertBureau.Itookasteelbandon a Stars,” saysAnna.Kristertakesupthebeat:“InSweden,whenwereturnedIstart- “We couldhearthepanseverynight.WenotradiobutweheardSilver the SilverStars’panyard,sosoundofsteelpanswerequitefamiliartothem. returned hometoreallygetintoit. in thosedaysAnnaneededtimetolearnthesteelpan.Soshewaiteduntilthey in aT&TcalypsotentwithArtdeCouteau’sband,sinceveryfewwomenplayed pan back withthem.AlthoughAnnahadsomeguestperformancesplayingherclarinet for 2009Carnival. and, ofcourse,AnnaandKrister’sband,HotPans,whichtheybroughttotheisland J’ouvert withbandssuchasBirdsong,MerryMakers,Brimblers,HarvardHarps, themselves intothemusicoflandand,aslocalssay,“beatingpan” for larly toTrinidadwheretheyhaveparticipatedenjoyablyinT&T’sculture,plunging moting T&T’sculture. recently givenanawardbyTrinidad&TobagoHighCommissioninLondonforpro- Lord Nelson,likehisparentshasbeenveryinvolvedwiththecultureofT&Tandwas who personallyknowsmostofthecalypsoniansincludingMightySparrowand Williams. Also,EricisanamecommonbothinSwedenandTrinidad.Malm, Eric, afterunclesofbothKristerandAnna,alsoT&T’sfirstPrimeMinister,Eric pened thatbothofuswereaskedtostayanddosomeworkhere.” one totakecareofit.Soitjusthappened.Wedidnotplanstayhere.Ithap- since thepersonwhowassenttostudyfoodmicrobiologygaveupandthereno to testthesafetyoffoods.Annaexplains,“Iwasalsoaskedrunlaboratory just startedalaboratoryintheFoodandDrugsDepartmentofMinistryHealth always beenintomusic,butnotprofessionally.” Anna, amicrobiologistbyprofession,whoalsohasmusicalsidetoher.“Ihave Trinidad andTobago.Dr.Elderwascommissionedtosetupamusicarchive,”relates in alltheislands,wasaskedtostayonbyDr.Elder,aprominentfolkloristof is amusicologistandhadbeenintheCaribbeandocumentingrecordingmusic end ofMarchorearlyApril,leavingtheirpresentvessel, island, returningtoTrinidadandthenwingingtheirwaybackhome,usuallyatthe nosing itdowntotheCaribbean,dockinginSt.LuciabeforesailingTrinidad. then toMadeira,acrosstheCanaryIslandsandthen,withwindattheirbacks, before wegothere,”saysKrister. Mediterranean allthewaytoGreece.Soyoucanimaginethattooksometime, Spain andalongtheSpanishPortuguesecoasts.“Thenwesailedinto across theNorthSeatoScotland,thendownCorkinIreland, years: theysailed which tookthree start adventure time viaastop-and- Trinidad forthefirst years. Theycameto for morethan40 Caribbean waters been sailingthe Anna Malmhave Tobago. Kristerand of Trinidad& particular themusic the islands—in ing of,themusicof love for,andrecord- Swedish couple’s about aseafaring the storyisreally publication, well, do withanautical steelbands haveto wondering what ranges inagesfromseventeentoseventy.Iamtheeldest,”sheaddedwithalaugh. 1970s. AnnamusthaveobservedmyquizzicallookwhenIrepeated“HotPants?” steelband sheandherhusband,Krister,formedintheirnativeSwedentheearly Visit AnnaandKrister’swebsiteatwww.kaiso.se. FormoreinformationaboutHot When theTrinidadiansleftaftertour,AnnaandKristerstartedabandwith In TrinidadtheyhadbeenlivinginCiprianiBoulevardahousewhichbacked When theyreturnedtoSwedenin1971afterthefirstvisit,tookasteelpan Since theirinitialtwo-yearstintinTrinidad,theMalmshavebeencomingregu- When theirTrinidadian-bornsonwaschristened,theythoughtitapttocallhim Anna wasalsoaskedtostayon,inthecapacityofamicrobiologist.Trinidadhad “When wefirstarrivedin1969Trinidadonoursmallsailingboat,Krister,who Now, theyflytoandfro.AftertheTrinidadCarnivalseasongosailingup- The secondtimeout,thetriptookthreemonths—sailingfirsttosouthernPortugal In caseyou’re She quicklyreplied,“Hot “Hot Pants.Whataname!”IthoughtaslistenedtoAnnaMalmtellmeabout Spreading theMusic CRUISERS’ PROFILES Pans on board Krister andAnna , no T, no T. Hot Pans! It is a mostly female band, which , noT,T.HotPans!Itisamostlyfemaleband,which by J.Wynner Kaiso of theIslands Kaiso , atChaguaramas. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23

The FLT visit resulted in an alliance of mutual col- resulted in an alliance of The FLT visit members realized the During the expedition, FLT mote traditional handicrafts, while raising awareness handicrafts, while raising mote traditional rivers. The waste and preserving the of controlling of Volcán, this time was the village FLT’s destination of Municipio Juan Millán parish located in the the interest- they learned more about Tucupita, where cruisers the indigenous Warao. Many ing culture of in Delta Orinoco River delta, located have visited the a high- meeting Warao people is always Amacuro, and light of their experience. communities, who excel in laboration with the Warao containers, water bottles, the making of high-quality from natural materials, bags, jewelry and other items recycled man-made plus other crafts that include relationships were devel- materials. Dynamic working and support the artisans’ oped that will encourage promote the use of sus- activity, and at the same time the recycling of many of tainable natural materials and often used in the area. the modern materials most of Volcán have for the keen awareness the inhabitants resources, and planned a benefits of their natural explore the use of more strategy for future visits to used in this area, and recyclable materials that are to make production develop environmental programs sustainable. The Warao of the Orinoco River delta produce The Warao of the Orinoco River both natural materials sustainable handicrafts from and recycled man-made materials On June 26th, Gregory Maxwell and some These individuals, as well as the thou- Unfortunately there are persons who con- Natural/Recycled Crafts Key to Venezuelan River Community Members of the Venezuelan environmen- The primary goal of this trip was to pro- friends went to Chacachacare and collected more than 30 bags of garbage. The following day, the Trinidad & Tobago Yacht Club Commodore, Chris Kelshall, and a group of friends also went to Chacachacare to clean and beautify the bay. sands of others that assisted in the nationwide clean-up campaign, should be thanked for their efforts in making our environment cleaner and more enjoyable to use for all of us! tinue to litter our beautiful country, which makes these efforts useless unless they are sustained. Therefore, the plan is to have these clean-up exercises every quarter, but volunteers are needed in order to make them a success. So come lend a hand when that time comes around next time! tal NGO Fundación La Tortuga (FLT) have visited the state of Delta Amacuro for the fourth time to further an ambitious project in support of the indigenous communities of this freshwater environment. These visits to Delta Amacuro form part of a community development project undertaken by Fundación La Tortuga, with the help of anthropologist and professor Ronny Velasquez, with the consciousness that people are part of the marine and freshwater environment. On this trip, Chelo Nogueira, vice president of FLT, Yadersy Wetter and Manuel Fernández represented the organization. , Elbow Fun Now …Eco News to clean up the first two bays by collecting more Continued from page 13 This “down the islands” clean-up effort was greatly Shane and Paula Ferreira and their two young sons, Above: Capital Signal provided a barge and tugboat, which transported the collected garbage a barge and tugboat, which transported the collected Above: Capital Signal provided to be disposed of properly bring it, you take it!’ Below: Somebody hasn’t yet got the simple message: ‘You assisted by Barry “Bim” Rostant of Capital Signal who provided a barge and a tugboat, which collected and transported all the garbage to be disposed of properly. — along with Christian and Willie Locke of linked up with Sean and Cindy O’Conner of Room than 50 jumbo garbage bags of garbage. On the eastern side by the concrete jetty in the bay, Mike Hatch and friends on another yacht cleaned up the area and also collected a big pile of garbage. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 some of the ruins choose to have themselves remem- bered by informing anybody going there after them that as they were there before, through writing things such seen from miles away. Some sailors who have visited seen from miles away. Some sailors who have visited “Viking from the North was here” and a date. It is fasci- out place where anybody approaching the island could be out place where anybody approaching the island could or nating for me to think of those people who once lived looks like a house that I always guess was used as a stake- visited these places before me. I try to wonder what Another intriguing feature at Scotland Bay are the seaside Another intriguing feature at Scotland Bay are the seaside tain cliff from the seaward side, there is a structure that tain cliff from the seaward side, there is a structure became of them or how much farther they have traveled. that looks intact but neglected. At the edge of the first moun- that looks intact but neglected. At the edge of the first mountains. Every now and then it is possible to see a house mountains. Every now and then it is possible to see on the caves. These are found at the base of rocky mountains walls, others are supporting structures or stairs leading into the walls, others are supporting structures or stairs leading side of Scotland Bay that borders the unprotected ocean waters. side of Scotland Bay that borders the unprotected ocean Along the coastline there are more kinds of ruins. Some are parts of Along the coastline there are more kinds of ruins. Some They are an awesome sight, especially during strong waves when the They are an awesome sight, especially during strong waves reason for me to admire the forest strictly from the edges! water hits the rocks with enormous force and then is swallowed by the water hits the rocks with enormous force and then Even the “tame” activities at Scotland Bay are not all bliss. Anyone taking dinghy Even the “tame” activities at Scotland Bay are not all With so many trees growing here, it is inevitable that there are some poisonous The pleasures here are simple. Mostly I just resort to swimming from the boat. If I Scotland Bay may be a small part of a big island, hidden away in a corner, but it Note: Foreign-flagged boats must let Trinidad & Tobago Customs know if they are Left: Small scattered beaches where I can just put up a hammock between two Left: Small scattered beaches strong trees and enjoy a book Above: Ruins and blooming trees me, and ocean water under Below left: Waking up to green mountains surrounding my floating home — bliss who occupied Scotland Bay around the time of World War II. I was fascinated by all who occupied Scotland Bay around the time of World that Scotland Bay was the ruins left behind and, on doing some research, discovered of Chaguaramas. There a recreation center for Americans during their occupation (not that it is possible was a football field and courts for both tennis and basketball ruins of an old zoo, which was to tell that from what remains). The bay also exhibits The zoo might explain the known as the Bronx Zoo, also an American construction. my guess. But if that were the population of monkeys in the forest, but that is just around — all the more case that might mean other, more silent, animals roaming mouth of the cave. Exploring them can be dangerous, too, because the waves can be mouth of the cave. Exploring them can be dangerous, worse, into the caves. I have so strong as to push the dinghy against the rocks or, of ever doing it, although some never tried to explore the caves and have no intention How far into the moun- of the caves are high enough for a person to walk through. Like the forested mountains they go or what they hide inside them I don’t know. tains, I refer to just behold them from the outside. rides along the coastline has to be wary of hidden underwater ruins that have sharp edges and can be very damaging to a dinghy engine or the inflatable dinghy material. Anyone choosing to walk on the small scattered beaches has to be very careful as there are a lot of broken pieces of glass lying in the shallow water or in the sand, waiting for your unsuspecting feet. I always take it upon myself to collect those I can and discard them in places least likely to be stepped on, but there is always one more out there. There can also be lots of litter among the trees. The local population used to camp or picnic here and much of the rubbish as well as alcohol bottles were left behind. That can be a disappointment. ones but not to worry, the relevant government institution has placards warning against touching or eating from the poisonous trees such as manchineel. My kudos for that. want to be closer to land, I just put up a hammock between two strong trees and enjoy a book and whatever else is on offer from Mother Nature. sure has a lot to offer. It is definitely a place to visit if you are in Trinidad. I so enjoy the place that one time when I anchored there I decided to bake a cake, just to celebrate all the combined forces of nature here and its magnificent beauty. It is definitely a good reason to add some calories into the body: celebrating beautiful Scotland Bay. So little yet so, so much. moving from their port of entry to any other anchorage in T&T. Customs will give them permission to go and they must report to Customs when they return. The reason for this regulation, unique among Eastern Caribbean islands, is Trinidad’s close proximity to South America, requiring law enforcement agencies to be more vigilant. The Customs officer in charge in Chaguaramas, says it’s a quick and easy procedure to let Customs know of an intended movement, and there is a place on the back of the Customs form where the Customs records such movements. Yachts are not allowed to clear out for a foreign port and then stop at Scotland Bay for the night, or stop in Scotland Bay before clearing in at Chaguaramas. H

C E ], I still feel Scotland Bay U L T see footnote M

T I O L

few anchorage options available in Trinidad, I would say few anchorage options available Scotland Bay beats all other anchorages hands down. Right from the entrance of Trinidad at the Boca, Scotland by Zipporah Gichumbi

T SO LITTLE LITTLE SSO

E YET SO MUCH YYET SO WITH Without the option of hiking in the forest, I choose to take dinghy rides along the There is a trail going up the mountain and many a sailor has hiked up exploring There is a trail going up the mountain and many a sailor At night the bay is just as full of life. There are bats flying allAt night the bay is just as full of life. There are bats flying Reflecting the trees all around, the water is a beautiful Reflecting the trees all around, the water is a beautiful I love to wake up to birds chirping in the morning. There I love to wake up to birds chirping in the morning. There For one thing, Scotland Bay is a sight to behold — so full of natural beauty and For one thing, Scotland Bay is a sight to behold — so Scotland Bay: Scotland coastline instead. All along the shore and in some places at the edge of the mountains, there are ruins of buildings or constructions left behind by American soldiers at the mountains and breathing in the mountain breeze does it for me. In any case, I have come to learn that it is illegal to hike in these mountains, probably because the coast guard has bases in the area. the depths of the forest, but I have never been there. It is so thick that I have a fear the depths of the forest, but I have never been there. of getting lost in the closely-knit trees, and sometimes there are landslides. Looking over the water surface. Hundreds of them come from their day- over the water surface. Hundreds of them come from their I hear themtime hiding place to feed on fish and every now and the deck, as Ihitting the surface of the water. At times I put fruits on the scent and comewas shown how to by a friend; the bats are attracted by out of the forest. When I firstto dine. Also to be seen are the fireflies popping in and up the mountains as the fire- came here I was almost convinced there were campers like lanterns burning fromflies can be so numerous at times, to the point they look just get a peaceful feeling.afar. During nights full of stars I lie out on the deck and is always amazing for me. The amount of nature coming together in Scotland Bay shade of green instead of the usual blue. It is very shade of green instead of the usual blue. It is very refreshing to swim here, as the water is always cool. Every now and then I get a glimpse of a turtle or some other unique sea creature. Bay is like a siren calling out to me. From the outside almost all I can see are the Bay is like a siren calling out to me. From the outside like a fort for the bay. They rocky sides of the mountains, which I always think are the sea, as an intruder can surround and protect the bay from anybody coming from The bay is surround- be seen from miles away yet all he can see are the mountains. and calm. When arriving in ed by mountains on three sides and thus very peaceful process and just anchoring Trinidad I always feel like just skipping the clearing-in in my favorite place. That not being an option [ fills is something about the music created by birds that one with joy and hope for the day. Waking up to green mountains surrounding me, birds chirping in the trees and monkeys roaring in the forest, and with the ocean water under my floating home — bliss. grace. Also I am intrigued by the amount of life that goes on in there. The forest is grace. Also I am intrigued by the amount of life that that wildlife thick and the roaring of the howler monkeys is a testament they sound sure exists in the mountains! At first I felt scared because now I see so aggressive but after a while I became used to it and see any it as a phenomenon unique to Scotland Bay. I never did one of them, but their roaring reminds me they are there. pulling me even as I pass by on my way to Customs and Immigration at Chaguaramas. pulling me even as I pass by on my way to Customs and It just has that effect on me. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 if notthesoleinhabitantsofAntilles, untiltheEuropeansarrivedin1492. the womenaswives.Simplyput,for8,000 yearstheAmerindianswereprimary, who madewaragainstestablishedAmerindian islanders,killingthemenandtaking groups. Yet,allagreethattherewereAmerindian warriortribes,suchastheCaribs, majority ofthenewmigrantswereintegrated intothepre-existingAmerindianisland ent AmerindianpeoplesfromtheOrinoco RiverValleythroughouttheAntilles.The Europeans inthelate15thcentury,there wasasemi-continuousmigrationofdiffer- little morehistory.) you sailorswhowanttoknowaboutthe Amerindians’boats,we’llgettoitaftera them, theycouldhavemadethenearly1,000-milejourneyinafewshortweeks. (For large well-craftedcanoes,usingthenorthwestcurrentsandtradewindstocarry that thesepeoplesmigratedfromSouthAmerica.Beinghighlyskilledsailorswith or northfromtheOrinocoRiverValleyinVenezuela.Scottbelievesitisverypossible sure ifthesepeoplesmigratedfrompresent-dayFloridaandtheYucatanPeninsula, islands ofCubaandHispaniola,dateback4,000years.Archeologistsare not Trinidad bylandandnotsea. what wehavetoday.Thismeantthesepeoplemigratedtoistodaytheisland of last IceAge,which,althoughpastitsendbythen,stillcreatedasealevellowerthan Trinidad wasstilllikelyjoinedtotheSouthAmericancontinent.Thisdue the Trinidad anddateback8,000years.Thoughanislandtoday,years ago together intoonepeople,Amerindian. pology paper;soforbrevity’ssake,Iamgoingtolumpallofthesesubgroups cussing thehistoryofeachtribe,andwhodisplacedwhom,butthisisnotananthro- and Taino.Icouldspendthisarticledis- groups andtribes,suchasArawak,Carib many peoplesofdifferentlanguagesub- who inhabitedtheislandsofAntilles: lot ofdifferenttheoriesaboutthepeoples inhabited Carriacou’sshores?Therearea of theislandsfortheseveryreasons. Amerindians settledonthewindwardside cook firesblowsaway.Almostall not liveinwindyareas,andsmokefrom was becauseofthewind.Mosquitoescan- calm leewardshore,theanswerIreceived windward sideoftheislandinstead asked whyAmerindianssettledonthe 200 inhabitantsfor1,300years.WhenI was acontinuallyactivevillageof100to dating, theteamhasproventhatthissite throughout theworld.Throughcarbon excavated intheirnearly20yearsofdigs ogy siteeitherScottandMichielhave just offGrandBayistherichestarcheol- pirate’s gold.Buriedbeneaththebank buried treasuresfargreaterthanany doubloons, thearcheologistshavefound Though theteamhasyettofindanygold ment todig,ifnotforburiedtreasure? expensive equipmentandpaythegovern- would alargegroupofforeignersbring the mindsofsomeCarriacouans,why pirate treasureburiedontheisland.In years, therehavebeenstoriesabout suspicious ofthem.Forhundreds seven yearsago,manyCarriacouanswere team firstbeganexcavatingonCarriacou first inhabitants. searching forremainsoftheGrenadines’ helping themexcavateandsiftearth, with themonCarriacouandUnionIsland, enough tobeablespendafewdays My wife,Karan,andIwerefortunate exploratory digsforfutureexcavations. Bay andothersitesonUnionIslandtodo Mustique andtoUnionIsland’sChatham site onGrandBay.Theyalsowentto spent afewdaysmappingtheexcavated Michiel wereintheGrenadines.They contact intheearly17thcentury. to asearlyAD300andupEuropean sites ontheisland,mostofwhichdateback dozen orsoknownAmerindiansettlement six-week periods,toexcavateamongthe in theNetherlands,havecomeforfive-to Michiel KappersatIn-TerrisSiteTechnics Kaye fromUniversityCollegeLondon,and North CarolinaStateUniversity,Quetta 25 students,ledbyScottFitzpatrickof archeology teamcomprisingapproximately Reefs”) astheycalledit. inhabited Kayryouacou(“IslandofMany more detailthelivesandsocietiesofindigenouspre-Columbianpeopleswho Carriacou. Onlyrecentlyhavelargerarcheologyteamscomeheretounderstandin (Jesse Fewkes).Sincethe1960s,afewarcheologistshaveworkedsporadicallyon “among thefinestWestIndieswarethathasyetcometoSmithsonianInstitute” Institute, in1904.TheresultsoftheirresearchconcludedthatCarriacouhad ishing culturewhichlastedformorethan1,300years. Many believethat,beginninginthefourth centuryADanduntilthecomingof The nextoldesthumanremainsintheAntillesarefoundonGreater According toScottandMichiel,theoldesthumanremainsinAntillesareon But whoweretheseancientones Scott andMichieltoldmethatwhenthe For twoweeksthispastMay,Scottand Nearly everysummersince2003,an The firstprofessionalarcheologiststovisitCarriacouwerefromtheSmithsonian A Carriacou’s richpre-ColumbianAmerindianculture:athrivingandflour- music anddance,CarnivalShakespeareMas.Butfewknowof has arichcultureunlikeanyotherplaceonEarth:BigDrum,Quadrille nyone whohasspenttimeonCarriacouknowsthatthisGrenadineisland of ManyReefs’ along withpottery,toolsmadefromconchandotherseashellsfoundon‘theIsland The AmerindiansoftheAntilleswerepeoplesea.Here,researchersexamine, Carriacou’s Amerindian Exploring CARIBBEAN MARITIMEHISTORY ast s Pa you canreceiveinformationat a handandmaybedigupskeletalremains asKaranandScottdidonGrandBay, out theAntillesis:theysureweresome tough SOBs. about theAmerindianswhosailedandsettled onCarriacouandtheislandsthrough- canoe nobiggerthanmymess-aroundaluminum canoebackhome…AllIcansay been crammedtogethertighterthantight, withalltheirworldlypossessionsina make sureallwentwell,thedozenorso ancientAmerindianvoyagerswouldhave seeking canoeistswiththeirhugechartered catamaranfollowingbehindthemto have beenpaddledfromtheOrinocoRiverinVenezuela.”Unlikemodernthrill- canoe reads,“Thissizeofwouldhaveheld9-12peopleandoriginally far fromtheGrandBaysite.Themuseum’swrittendescriptioninside20-foot in theCarriacouMuseum.Thecanoehadbeenexcavatedfrombeneathsand not paddle pastthejettyoutintobay,IthoughtaboutAmerindiancanoehoused if IcouldmeettheminUnionandjoinup.Butalastherewasnoroomthecanoe. was soenviousofthewould-beAmerindiancanoecrew.Iaskedaleadercrew After aweekofexcavatingAmerindianremainsandstudyingtheseancientpeople, I Grenada andwereontheirwaytoUnionIslandwheretheywouldspendthenight. has arichAmerindianhistory.Thecanoecrewhadstartedthedaybeforefrom tic AmerindiancanoeuptoMartinique;forlikeallislandsoftheAntilles,Martinique dugout canoeawaitedthem. ous bunchgotintodinghiesandmotoredtotheshorewherenowbeached lifting woodenpaddleshighintotheair.Afterchantswerechanted,boister- had beengougedout,theywerestretchedopenusingacombinationofwater,hot solid trunksbycontrolledfiresandstonetoolssuchastheadze.Once bases untilthetreesfell.Aftertheyremovedtrees’bark,dugouthuge the baseoftreeswiththeirstoneaxesthenburningcontainedfiresatringed Amerindians, withonlystonetools,toppledthetall,broadgommiertreesbyringing in largedugoutcanoesmadeprimarilyfromgommiertrees( shipwrights, sailors,navigatorsandfishermen.TheAmerindianssailedthesewaters seamanship andboatbuilding. Antilles, the [email protected] If youwouldliketoknowmoreaboutthe archeologygoingonintheAntilles,orlend I watchedthemodernvoyagers,30ormorewomenandmen,shouldertoshoulder, They wereFrench,Iwastold.paddlinginanexactreplicaofauthen- The AmerindiansoftheAntilleswerepeoplesea.Theyhighlyskilled Now thatwe’vefinishedourverybrief8,000-yearhistoryoftheAmerindians by JackRussell Compass . beingthe Compass www.in-terris.com cially forlongjourneys. palm weresometimesalsoused,espe- sails madeofwovenleavesthemoriche were primarilyusedtopropelthecanoes, carrying 70to80people.Thoughpaddles than 50feetinlength,andwerecapableof bigger craft,the making shorttripsalongthecoast.The were primarilyforinshorefishingand feet longandpointedatbothends.They smaller before beingdriedinthesun. canoes beingburiedindampsandtocure the hullshapewaspreservedby After thisprocesshadbeencompleted, and taperthemdowntopointedends. lengths towidenthecanoesinmiddle stones, andwoodenwedgesofdifferent onto thejetty,wesawanchoredjustoff Carriacou. Whenwedockedandstepped yachties, tookthe Union Island,KaranandIbeingnon- excavation withScottandMichielon each other... language, buttheyallclearlyunderstand ence ofphysiognomy,manners,or ers. Inalltheseislandsthereisnodiffer- that heldasmanyseventy-eightrow- the people.Isawsomeofthesecanoes countless number,tocarryontrafficwith cross totheotherislands,whichareof teen banksofoars,andwiththesethey greater numberareconstructedwitheigh- These canoesareofvarioussizes,butthe motion; theysteerthemonlybytheoar. length andshape,butswifterintheir and notunlikeourdouble-bankedboatsin ber ofcanoes,builtsolidwood,narrow in 1492: ing theAmerindians’boatsinhisjournal Hispaniola, gold. co, weapons,and,fromislandssuchas beyond suchthingsascloth,tools,tobac- trading throughouttheislandsand world, theAmerindiansweretraders, for, likealmostallpeoplesthroughoutthe times forwar,andmanytrade; islands, sometimesforsettlement,some- They sailedtheopenseastodistant gating intheopenseausingstars. heart, andhadtheirownmeansofnavi- who knewthelocationofislandsby ing upanddown,shoutingchants, to 40people,allinyellowlifevests,jump- deck ofthecatamaranwasfilledwith30 canoe wasaverylargecatamaran.The wooden dugoutcanoe.Notfarfromthe Hillsborough’s shoreanincrediblylong , it’stimetotalkabouttheAmerindians’ The canoeswereoftwokinds. After ourfewdaysofarcheological Each oftheseislandshadagreatnum- Christopher Columbuswroteconcern- Amerindians wereexcellentseamen, coulianas , oryoucane-mailMichielat canouas werenomorethan20 Dacryodes excelsa Jasper , couldbemore backto ). The AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 S

US NAVAL HISTORICAL CENTER A

S V E N REPRESENTATIVE needs N I A A stainless steel I D C U

ADINES AADINES Q E NN frames at competitive prices & With increasing support from home and abroad, support from home and With increasing Porter often had to As head of the anti-pirate squad, Porter led the Mexican Navy for three years and then Among Porter’s many victories, perhaps none were as successes expanded, even Spanish merchants saw the even Spanish merchants successes expanded, merchants a sea without pirates. Those advantages of Porter in his authorities to support encouraged Cuban pirate hunting. of the most notable was Porter’s successes grew. One pirate named Diabolito the defeat of a notorious Cuban surprised Diabolito and or Little Devil. Porter’s forces coast of Cuba, forcing his pirates off the northern and hide in the land. them to abandon their ship was effectively over. Without a ship, their piracy which he managed quite walk a diplomatic tightrope, one disastrous diplo- well. However, he experienced at Farjardo, Puerto Rico, matic blunder. It took place authorities arrested one of in November 1824. Spanish the island for pirate Porter’s officers who was surveying dispatched 200 activity. Incensed, Porter immediately town, demanding a formal armed naval sailors into the a formal apology, his apology. Although he did receive territory resulted in armed excursion onto Spanish result, Porter’s detractors objections from Spain. As a the event as a pretext to in the Navy Department used dishonor him. Convening a military tribunal, Porter was court-martialed in 1825 and received a six-month suspension from duty. The sentence so angered Porter that he resigned his commission and left the United States for Mexico where he was welcomed and made commander-in-chief of the Mexican Navy. Mexico needed his services because the country was engaged in a war of independence from Spain. returned to the United States in 1829. Upon his return, President Andrew Jackson made him consul general of Algiers. Ten years later, in 1839, Porter was made US Minister to Turkey at Constantinople. He died of yellow fever while serving in that capacity on March 3rd, 1843. great as his eradication of piracy from the waters of the Caribbean. Porter’s work effectively ended the careers of famous pirates such as Diabolito, Charles Gibbs and Jean Laffite. By capturing hundreds of other pirates, maritime trade was made safe and, by 1825, piracy virtually ceased to exist in Caribbean waters. SAILS & CANVAS

BBEQUIA E Come in and see us S CUSTOM-MADE R LLS & CANVAS G II GRE for all your out to sea. including AA BIMINI & DODGER Essex lost 58 men killed, SS

Located opposite G.Y.E. (northern side of Admiralty Bay) Tel (784) 457-3507 / 457-3527 (evenings) e-mail: [email protected] VHF Ch16/68 Essex Returning to Washington, DC as a highly popular Returning to Washington, That US Naval force became known as “The Mosquito Porter’s orders were simple and direct: to suppress Nevertheless, Porter and his sailors fiercely and fero- CARIBBEAN MARITIME HISTORY CARIBBEAN According to Porter, Hillyar’s “shot never missed our Porter, Hillyar’s “shot never According to which was ship was cut up in a manner hull, and my I saw no hopes of sav- perhaps never before witnessed. past six p.m. gave the pain- ing her and, at 20 minutes ful order to strike colors.” The out of a total crew of 255. 31 missing and 66 injured but not before declar- Porter was forced to surrender but not disgraced.” ing, “We have been unfortunate to the British, they had Even though he was a blight skills as a naval officer and considerable respect for his Porter was promptly military strategist. Consequently, York on the condition he paroled and sent to New the British. would no longer fight against a member of the newly war hero, Porter was made a high-level constituted Board of Navy Commissioners, Secretary. An authentic advisory board to the US Navy ashore and requested seaman, Porter became restless That is when he was some kind of sea duty again. specifically formed to fight selected to lead a Navy unit off the southern tip of pirates. Stationed at Key West of age, was commanding Florida, Porter, at 42 years of US Navy ships the largest peacetime collection which had ever been assembled. Fleet” because it utilized small and shallow-draft ships. These smaller boats could travel more rapidly chasing pirate ships into shallow waters. His fleet comprised 16 vessels made up of naval brigs, con- verted Baltimore schooners, a paddle steamer and one decoy merchant ship completely armed with hidden guns. Key West was chosen because of its proximity to pirate waters. The island was known as Thompson’s Island and, under Porter’s command, the island soon had one of the most active naval bases in the United States. The name, “Mosquito Fleet,” held another meaning for the sailors serving under Captain Porter because the insects carried yellow fever and malaria. Before long, the island’s naval hospital was filled with sailors experiencing high fevers. and eradicate piracy, end the pirates’ slave trading, protect the commerce of US business interests, maintain security for citizens traveling in the Caribbean, and provide safe passage when necessary. Although the orders were simple, the mission was complex because pirates were plentiful and the numerous islands of the Caribbean provided pirates with ample hiding places. ciously attacked pirate ships wherever they found them. His fleet scoured the entire Caribbean, the Bahamas and the Gulf of Mexico. Porter targeted pirate bases in Puerto Rico, Mexico, Cuba and the Florida Keys. Wherever pirate ships and bases were discovered, they were destroyed. Cuba presented a unique challenge for Porter because the Spanish resented any American presence and often looked the other way when pirates attacked ships. As Porter’s When it became clear that his ship was doomed, Porter clear that his ship was doomed, When it became the ship. aground in order to burn tried to run her kept pushing the However, winds USS and Essex was captured off discovered the . sailed into South American

, and first sailed from New York Phoebe Essex Essex USS Philadelphia

by Victor Parachin was pounded by Hillyar’s cannons. Essex

the first American warship to reach that and was later placed in charge of naval Essex David Porter of Captain of Captain The Saga The Saga Essex Unfortunately for Porter and his crew, British Captain Responding in 1821, President Monroe authorized From the time the Spanish discovered a new worldFrom the time the Spanish Upon release in 1805, Porter commanded the ocean. There he continued skirmishing with British ocean. There he continued skirmishing with British ships. On March 28th, 1814, a sudden and fierce storm damaged the James Hillyar of the attacked. The battle lasted two hours during which attacked. The battle lasted two hours during which time the the US Navy to establish an anti-pirate squadron to rid the US Navy to establish an anti-pirate squadron to rid the Caribbean of piracy. The most logical person to lead this new and unique unit was Navy Captain David Porter who was already regarded as a naval hero. Born at Boston, Massachusetts, on February 1st, 1780, Porter entered the US Navy as a midshipman in 1798. He was engaged in military action against France and fought in the Tripolitan War against the pirate states of North Africa. In fact, Porter became a prisoner of war when the and began transporting gold, silver, pearls and otherand began transporting gold, pirates were not fartreasures from Latin America, and extending overbehind. Beginning in the mid-1550s ships traveling in thethe next two and a half centuries, to pirate attacks. TheCaribbean Sea were vulnerable was a time of unusuallyperiod from 1815 to 1820 a wave of piracy. In 1820severe disruption due to attacked and plundered.alone, 27 American ships were the high losses forcedBecause the ships were insured, insurance companies to sharply raise premiums. As losses mounted, ship owners and insurance companies along with American politicians demanded that effective action be taken to stem the tide of piracy. Enterprise forces at New Orleans, Louisiana. His claim to fame came during the war of 1812 when he conducted a highly effective series of attacks on British ships. In July of that year, the US issued a declaration of war against the British. Porter assumed command of the 32-gun frigate toward Nova Scotia and Newfoundland where he sub- sequently captured several ships. In October of 1812, Porter and the waters rounding Cape Horn into the Pacific, making the Tripoli in October 1803. US Navy Pirate Hunter: Pirate Hunter: US Navy AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 aboard that includedJohnDuffytheSheriffofPlumCountyandaphotographer,stepped loan oftheRobinson44wasagreed. ing topromotetheyacht’scaptaincommandroyalfleetasHighAdmiral, the yacht capable oftakingsuchaflightfancywasthatstowedaboardthe67-metresuper- arrive quicklyontheislandwastocommandeerahelicopter.Theonlymachine tied upattendingtheAntiguaCharterYachtMeeting,onlywayitseemed to in whichtomountsuchanexpedition. until IactuallygottherethatwastobecomethenextKing,hadbutashorttime the annualcharteryachtshowformagazine standard. AsIdidnotgettoAntiguauntiltheDecember,whenwassentcover island within12monthsofhisdemiseandoncethereraisetheroyalRedondan become theisland’snextKingIhadtoprovewasstillwriting.alsovisit the trueKingofRedondaItookthatwithasprinklingsodiumchloride. leads. HesaidhereadeverywordIeverwrotebutalongwithhisstoriesaboutbeing my maninAntigua,feedingmewithlocalnewsofinterestandcheckingoutstory Day inNavalHistory”.Asmycareerasayachtingjournalistdeveloped,sohebecame where eachnightasthesunset,atotofrumisdrunkandreadingmadefrom“This a beautifulGermanFrersketch.BobinductedmeintotheRoyalNavyTotClub used EnglishHarbourinAntiguaasthehomeportforourcharteryacht burrowing owlsrecentlydisplacedfromAntigua. island hasbecomearefugeforseabirds,reptiles,herdofgoatsandcolony most ofthebuildings,withonlyruinsatSussexsurviving.Thenow-abandoned with theoutbreakofGreatWar,andwasneverresumed.Hurricanesdestroyed production, morethan7,000tonsoforewerebeingexportedeachyear.Workceased Plateau, rainwaterreservoirs,ajettyandcable-hoistwereinstalled.Atitspeakof island forprocessingasfertilizer.AccommodationwasestablishedonSussex the 20thcentury,largequantitiesofphosphate-bearingorewereminedfrom remnant ofanextinctvolcanocone,itwasnotalwaysthatway.Intheearlypart of 971feet,andwhileitisnowasomewhatinhospitablecurrentlyuninhabited island ofMontserrat. about 30milestothesouthwestofAntiguaand13northwestvolcanic such ashisrealm,itisalmostanessentialtrait.TheislandofRedondalocated author ofsomenote,waseveryinchasailor—andtobekinganislandterritory down theliterarylinenamingme,MichaelHoworth,ashissuccessor. chest declaredthathehadchosentopassonhistitleinthetime-honouredfashion was discoveredinthebilges.Somewhatwater-damageddocumentsfoundinside his finalvoyageandintounchartedwaters. But bywhatevermeans,Matthewroseto thetitleandin1929,some49yearsafter Irish convictswho,havingbeendeported toSt.Kitts,escapedandwentMontserrat. rather thanthedescendantofIrishkings, Shielwasmorelikelythedescendantof the helpofWilliamWalrondJackson, thenBishopofAntigua. a longlineofIrishkings,decidedtocrown hisson,Matthew,king.Hedidsowith Dowdy Shiel,ashipownerfromMontserrat andamanapparentlydescendedfrom Redonda” andnumerouspretenders.Itall startedin1865,when,allegedly,Matthew created byfamousliteraryfigures.There haveovertheyearsbeenseveral“Kingsof known aroundtheworldforitscurious catalogueofwhimsical“RoyalCharacters” been passedfromoneincumbenttoanotherasaresultofliteraryconnections. the Kingshipcanbepassedon.The“title”ofKingisnothereditaryandappearstohave has becomethetraditionthatitisonlybydoingsoandstakingaclaimtotitle that located onthewesternside. cliffs thatfallalmostperpendicularlynearly1,000feetintotheseabelowsummit la Redonda.Thisprecipitousandsomewhatforbiddingislandischaracterised by the NewWorld,heclaimedRedondaforSpanishcrown,namingitSantaMaria of KingBob. Redonda. Oncethere,thestandardwasraisedandatoastmadetomemory At thecrackofdawnonDecember12th, Short ofsettingsailwithaflotillasuperyachts,mostwhichwereatthetime Yet inthedocumentofsuccessionleftbyKingBobhedecreedthatifIwasto I hadfirstmetKingBobbackintheearly’90swhen,withFrances,mywife,we Redonda isanislandonemilelongbythirdofawide,risingtoheight King Bob,otherwiseknownasRobertWilliamson,besidesbeingawriterand Quite bychance,whilehisflagship In August2009BobtheBald,KingofRedonda,diedpeacefully,settingsailon Detractors sayMatthewwasnothingmore thantheillegitimatesonofWilliamand, The historyoftheKingdomisnotwithoutitsownroyalintrigue.Ithasbecome Columbus, unliketrueKingsofRedonda,didnotactuallylandontheislandand it When ChristopherColumbusspottedtheislandin1493onhissecondjourney to TheDayIWas Allure Shadow Crowned King Airfarce One by KingMichaeltheGrey,ofRedonda , andflewwestwardstolandatSussex,thecapitaltownon . Afterpromisingaknighthoodtotheyacht’sownerandagree- Saint Peter

2009 I,togetherwithmyroyalretinue SuperYacht World, wasbeingbrokenup,hisseachest anddidnotknow Red Hackle,

Above: ThenewKing,preparingtoboard and essentiallyonelargerock Top: Amythicalmicro-nation,RedondaisinrealitypartofAntigua&Barbuda— salt fromtheroyalsaltcellar. of Redondawasplaceduponmyhead,thearchbishopaskedmetotakeapinch of goldensugarcane,eachrepresentingtherichesCaribbean.Beforecrown presented mewiththeRoyalOrb,agoldenpineapple,followedbyMace,stick of PlumCountyreadouttheproclamationpastKingandarchbishopfirst occasion wasTerrance,LordArchbishopofRedonda.Inamovingservice,theSheriff ruins ofwhatwasFortCharlotte,overlookingEnglishHarbour.Presidingoverthe Antigua inthe“royal”car,aratherelderlyMazda323toppedbygoldcrown. his “royal”personagearoundAntiguaandcouldfrequentlybeseendriving close proximitytoRedonda.Hegrantedknighthoodsworthypersonsandparaded doubt, KingBobhadadefiniteadvantageoverhisdetractorsbylivingonAntiguain himself King,aclaimhesaidhadthebackingofhispredecessorKingJuanII.Without went ashorewhereheplantedhisstandardatthetopofKingJuan’sPeak,declaring Baden Powell pubs. Unfortunately,forfreedom-lovingsmokers intheUK,theywereunsuccessful. immunity fromthenationwidebanonsmoking inenclosedworkplacesthatincluded ed todeclareitselfanembassyofthe“nation” ofRedonda,inordertogaindiplomatic reigns inRedondaisconfusion. is Antigua&Barbudathatnowholdssovereignty overtherock,andallthatreally have grantedthetitletoanyone.Since independence fromGreatBritainin1981it ing theislandtoakinganddoubtsthat theBritishGovernmentofdaywould Government fortheirpublicityvalue. then andanyclaimstokingship,whilespurious,aremerelytoleratedby the Antigua in1967.RedondahasbelongedtothepeoplesofthatGovernmentsince tolerance withwhichtheyviewedmyKingdom. & BarbudatopromotetheislandsandIthankedGovernmentforindulgent and moreespeciallyyachting,IwouldworkwiththeMinistryofTourismAntigua of mypredecessors.Ididaddthat,asatravelwriterspecializingintheCaribbean I wouldupholdthetitleandcontinuerulingwithallmyth,mysteryfantasy lished byKingBobandissueaNewYear’shonourslistatthebeginningofeachyear. It isexpectedbythoseseekingridiculoustitlesthatIwillcontinuethetraditionestab- ing apinchofsaltfromtheroyalsaltcellar,becameViceroyJohnDuffyPlumCounty. King hadeverlandedontheisland. Once backinAntiguaIwascrownedthatdayatacoronationceremonyheldthe In 2007,theWellingtonArmspubinSouthampton, England,unsuccessfullyattempt- The BritishForeign&CommonwealthOffice hasnorecordsofanyagreementced- In reality,RedondabecameaBritishpossessionin1860anddependency of Speaking attheceremonyaftertakingnameKingMichaelGrey,Isaidthat My firstactasKingwastobestowtheofficeofViceroyJohnDuffywho,aftertak- In 1997,theyearKingJuanIIabdicated,Bobsailedacrosstoislandin , a 40-metre square-rigged topsail schooner, and, with 61 loyal subjects, , a40-metresquare-riggedtopsailschooner,and,with61loyalsubjects, established thatuntilKingBobdidso,noother an ecologicalflaguponitssummit.Ithasbeen visit theisland,landingonitin1979andplanting abdicated, weresoldatauction.Tysondidhimself Juan II(thewriterJonWynne-Tyson),whohad Sotheby’s in1997,whenpapersbelongingtoKing purchase ofartifactspertainingtotheKingdomat ing inSpain,laysclaimtothecrownthrough The SpanishnovelistJavierMarías,currentlyliv- little factualhistorythereisrelatingtothetitle. claims onwebsitesbuttheseoftencontradictwhat to thetitlegointogreatdetailsupporttheir pretenders tothethrone.Indeed,someclaimants appointed byGawsworth—afactdisputed Juan Idied,andheclaimstohavebeendirectly Tyson becameKingJuanIIin1970,theyear it forsalebyothermeans.ThewriterJonWynne- in three advertisementsareknowntohaveappeared fact makeseveralattemptstosellthetitle.Atleast a littleconfused.ItappearsthatKingJuanIdidin after hisabdicationin1967that‘history’became Irish poetJohnGawsworthKingJuanI,anditwas his booksales. cist, hecouldhaveinventedthestorytoincrease presumed that,beingaconsummateself-publi- works ofthesaidMatthewShielanditmaybe appears in1929apamphletpromotingthe The earliestwrittenrecordofaKingRedonda where theliteraryconnectionhasitsfoundation. well knownasasciencefictionwriterandthatis to beKingFelipeofRedonda.Later,hebecame his supposedcoronation,MatthewShielclaimed In 1936,asuccessiontookplacemakingthe The Times Airfarce One newspaperandhemayhaveoffered andvisithiskingdom Lord Lord AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 History of the former leper colony at to an Idylle 15.5, since 1998, mostly in the Cayenne III, Chacachacare — perhaps the ideal place to read this book’s title story Today, yachts escape ?), he concludes: “The answer is the same no matter where they ?), he concludes: “The answer is the same no matter where The Caribbean hosts an anthology of islands, populated by people and their islands, populated by people hosts an anthology of The Caribbean Virgin Islands, where the author was born and raised, The book is dedicated to the a in the US Virgin Islands around Carnival time. It’s “Kill the Rabbits” takes place culture is “something worth Cooper, a thief and accused rapist, ponders why his her people — yet she doesYanique writes with a tough love for her island, her region, BarnesandNoble.com, Available for purchase online at www.tiphanieyanique.com, Ellen Sanpere has lived on a story to explain it. It might be true, or it might be fiction; regardless, the story is it might be fiction; regardless, it. It might be true, or a story to explain beautifully written. fascinating and island is unique from somewhere else. Each have been transported descendants who to feelings many living there are subject of dialects and histories, yet in its mixture of more affluent countries. Yanique’s stories bril- of alienation and the influence of the Caribbean islands, all of whom have been liantly portray different people voluntarily or otherwise, recently or long ago. “The displaced in some way, whether solution to connect the islands. Bridge Stories” offers one ill-fated there. The characters — thugs in love, a Carnival- and several stories take place (Frenchies, generally residents of Frenchtown, are people costume maker, a Frenchie St. Thomas), a Muslim, a beauty queen, expatriates, of French decent who colonized children — all deal with issues of race, sexuality, status, bi-racial couples and their affluence or poverty, tourism, and changing cultures. religion, double standards, of a pickpocket on St. Thomas, and Herman, the son multi-level story about Cooper, two American pro- fessors who buy a house and a bar on St. John after a cruise ship visit. The two very different young men are both in love with Xica, a motherless young woman in a yellow dress, raised by her grandfather, a costume maker. She sees Herman as “a transient thing who simply appeared and I expected him to disappear any min- ute, so I fell in love with him.” She thing to hide behind. A thing observes, “Flesh is also a kind of costume. It is also a a gated community,” as she to move you and to be moved by. Skin. The walls of visits Herman on St. John. ourselves. But not ourselves, keeping alive,” and frets about whorishness, “…selling can’t even afford to live in St. really. The land. But the land is us… The St. Johnians wooden cross beneath the jail John.” As he observes a white man bearing a heavy reading his father’s cell window on Easter Sunday (is that Herman, after Christian Martyrdom Nothing else is worth it.” might be or where they might be from. For love, of course. for fiction. A Fulbright scholar,not preach. Her stories have won international prizes York and visits St. Thomasshe is an assistant professor at Drew University in New characters loveable, orwhen she can. Her skill as a writer makes the most unlovable text on white paper a shineat least, palatable and understood. Her artistry gives black tight white pants, red saris,like gold dust on a yellow dress. Her images are filled with silk nightgowns, dark burkas,purple bridesmaids’ dresses, Puma trainers, Maui Jims, captures the colors, textures,and tuxedos. In her portraits of island people, she that transplants and touristssounds and even the smells of the Caribbean — aspects or love.might notice but rarely experience, let alone explore, understand and Amazon.com. Caribbean. She recently moved ashore on St. Croix. by Tiphanie

, BOOK REVIEW BY ELLEN SANPERE BY ELLEN BOOK REVIEW This book’s title is unusual andThis book’s title is unusual the Living up to the intrigue of the The title story foreshadows The colony is run by white grabs the bookstore browser. Whograbs the bookstore browser. sincehas even thought of leprosy the discovery of a cure for Hansen’s exceptdisease in the 1930s — perhaps tourists visiting Chacachacare, an abandoned is hereleper colony in Trinidad? It that the first story takes place. stories title, this compilation of the also grabs the reader from first page. rich textures prize-winning author Tiphanie Yanique offers throughout the collection. When found to have leprosy, Deepa, a 14-year- old Trinidadian Hindu girl, is sent to the colony in 1939. On busy roads and dusty paths, Yanique takes the reader from Trinidad to this remote island, just five miles away. A red sari made redder by a child’s blood is the first of many vibrant visuals that remind one of lush color photos, rather than typeset words. nuns, who remain separate from patients of all colors and faiths, and who are assisted by an assortment of volunteers wrapped in white: Trinidadian doctors, Zar-Par

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THE ISLANDS DISPLACED IN IN DISPLACED Compliments of Today, Chacachacare appears abandoned in haste. Plates and bowls sit on tables, Today, Chacachacare appears abandoned in haste. Plates Two years older than Deepa, Lazaro becomes like a brother to her and says his Two years older than Deepa, Lazaro becomes like a After many days of trying to figure out where Deepa should sleep, the nuns put her After many days of trying to figure out where Deepa should How to Escape From a Leper Colony: a Novella and Stories How to Escape From a FREE CRUISING GUIDES patient records are revealed to any boater who stops to explore. When Yanique vis- patient records are revealed to any boater who stops were a mystery, she made up ited and learned that the details of the abandonment “mother tell me a island can be like a world.” He wishes to be Deepa’s lover and is “mother tell me a island can be like a world.” He wishes to the nuns’ burial site. The happy to take her exploring around the island, especially Diasporas. colony is a microcosm of African, East Indian and European in a one-room house with an old African woman, Tantie B. There is talk about a cure in a one-room house with an old African woman, Tantie not to think badly of her par- for their disease, and Tantie B wants Deepa’s mother She is the grandmother Deepa enting skills, should the young girl go home someday. never knew. Yanique. ©2010, Greywolf Press. 184 pages. ISBN 978-1-55597-550-0. Yanique. ©2010, Greywolf Press. their pockets, and criminals British journalists, young people carrying Bibles in two churches, Catholic and trading time in jail for time among the lepers. There are Deepa finds it easy “to chant Protestant. Though there isn’t any place for Hindus, there.” about Jesus Christ and slip in a Lord Krishna here and AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 boatwork efforts. improve afterthe7thtocomplementyourbusinessand romance mightseemheadedfortherocks,itwillall anchorage inthesecondweek;giveitawarmwelcome. especially inthefirstweek.Romancewillcruiseintoyour 20th, somakethebestofthembeforethen. will berightoffyoursternandlaggingbehindafterthe life. Concentrateoncreativeventures. the monthromancewilljoinlight-airssectionofyour drums thisAugust,alongwithyourenergylevels.Laterin bit swampy. Romance willbeontheebbtideandbusinessdealingsa the 21stwhenyourpowersofpersuasionwillwane. don’t allowotherstobackwindyourefforts. you must. bers arelessthanhelpful.Getoutthecat-o-nine-tailsif ish upallboatworkleftundonesofar,evenifcrewmem- month tobringthosebusinessplansasafeharbor. first weekanduseyourworkenergyfortherestof take itscourse,evenifit’sawayfromyou. group plansandfinalizedealsbeforethen.Letromance the month. get newboatprojectswellunderwaybeforetheendof else toonesideandtakefulladvantageofthisaspect dies orgosingle-handinguntilthesituationimproves. treat yourselftosometimeoff.Hangwithgoodboatbud- watch yourlovelifesailaway,takeabreakfromitalland your rewardafterthe7th. ness inthefirstweekandletasailorlynewromancebe Although communicationsarestillgarbledand Any marine-relatedbusinesswillbeunderfullsail, While creativityisonarollickingbeat,communications Break outthedrifter.Boatbusinesswillbeindol- Contact anyonewhocanhelpyousailforwardbefore You canaccomplishalotonboardthismonthifyou Concentrate oncreativeprojectsthismonthandfin- Concentrate onnauticalbusinessaspirationsinthe Verbal skillswillbeflowingfreelyuntilthe21stsomake August willbeacreativemonth,soputeverything As communicationsremainaslogtowindwardandyou You’ll befeelingenergeticsoputitintoyourboatbusi- AUGUST 2010 WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) DON’T LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

A LITTLE REMINDER A LITTLE — Liesbet Collaert Or stuckintrafficwithafrustratedlook? Reading theplotofadarngoodbook, Or rushingoutofthehouse,alreadyawreck? Having anicebreakfastonyourvessel’sdeck, Or stoppingthealarmbypressingsnooze? Waking upanytimeyouchoose, In yourshortbutpreciouslife? What doyouwant,howthrive, A decisionfewpeopleunderstand... Life onthewaterorlifeland? Remember howlivingonlandwouldbe! Whenever youdoubtyourexistenceatsea, Know thereisalessexcitinglifetobeled. Whenever youfeellonely,annoyedorsad, Or goingtobedwithworkonyourmind? Rocked inyourbunkbywavesohsokind, Or cookingamealwithingredientsyoubought? Grilling thatfishyourecentlycaught, Or chuggingaBudinfrontoftheTV? Having acocktailoutside,feelingfree, Or staringatthesameoldfeaturesonland? Being surroundedbywaterandsand, Or survivingintheofficewithabunchoflosers? Exchanging storieswithothercruisers, Or doingyourjob,asifchasedbyahound? Leaving theareaandsailingaround, Or sittingatwork,ademandingbossinyourface? Spending theday,exploringanewplace,

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GUY DEAN Yacht Tixi Lixi. Word Search Puzzle solution on page 23 Current research funded by the Regional International Department of Cruising and the Regional International Department of Cruising and Current research funded by cruise the Caribbean aboard Andy Pell and Lorna Rudkin Nomenclature for for Nomenclature for further research monies and will be, therefore applying for further funding. for further research monies Leisure Executive (RIDICULE). and Associated Yacht Folk Yacht and Associated by Andy Pell and Lorna Rudkin by Andy Pell Systematic Systematic a Towards Towards Recreational Yachties Yachties Recreational Having bought and renovated a research vessel and started the initial study Having bought and renovated a research vessel and Other possible delineators include hull or mast numbers as these factors seem to Other possible delineators include hull or mast numbers This division seems to be along lines of sociability. Some travel in groups; research- This division seems to be along lines of sociability. Some Reports have also been made of a more numerous group, tending to be in middle of a more numerous group, tending to be in middle Reports have also been made A younger generation has also been detected, often in pairs with ideas of romantic been detected, often in pairs with ideas of romantic A younger generation has also The traditional literature lists the more obvious types, focusing upon older males the more obvious types, focusing upon older males The traditional literature lists As academics, we were given a grant by one of the lesser-known divisions of the a grant by one of the lesser-known divisions of the As academics, we were given The World Meteorological Organization establishes one list of Atlantic hurricane The World Meteorological Organization list is repeated every seventh year. names for each of six years; i.e. one that name is retired from the list. But if a storm is extremely destructive, this Word Search Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski. Find retired hurricane names in (names, addresses and invoices from bars supplied on request) we have found a need (names, addresses and invoices from bars supplied on divide the groups horizontally. Some owners of catamarans have friends with divide the groups horizontally. Some owners of catamarans in our own experience, monohulls but rarely mention them in company. Similarly, difficulty explaining any real ketch owners staunchly defend this rig while having when returning from some benefit. Our own suggestions, being a useful hand-hold seem to be in a minority. strenuous research or a sound place to rig a hammock, ers refer to this as “flocking” and work is being carried out to see if the gravitational ers refer to this as “flocking” and work is being carried are more solitary and tend to effects of boat hulls are in some part involved. Others within a single boat’s aver- interact less, not only with their fellow yachties but often differences between these age crew of two. Preliminary enquiries have yet to show Canal. Flocking is often two sub-groups when going to and through the Panama some way threatened. Areas most clearly exhibited when the more sociable feel in nets and “pot-lucks”, clear where piracy or theft is rife will often be hot spots for VHF that some of the less indications of the more sociable group. It has been suggested they “commune with nature”, sociable seek out more isolated places to anchor where which may be indicative of social/psychiatric disorders. age. Those in this segment has often been economically active but have retired to has often been economically active but have retired age. Those in this segment group above). This group broaden their horizons and escape their offspring (see tends to splits into two distinct sub-groups. places and a decidedly low requirement for space. In vessels many would balk at requirement for space. In vessels many would balk places and a decidedly low in a lake, they cross oceans and tackle poor weath- choosing for racing round marks numerous, possibly caused by their use of blogging, er. This data-set is remarkably dif- Their skill with modern technology is a strong which in turn encourages others. is the older generation who still hold that the sextant ferentiator between them and too modern. with beards and floppy hats who have spent many years perfecting stoops, are able who have spent many years perfecting stoops, are able with beards and floppy hats 9 gale and splice galvanized rigging wire with their bare to row a dinghy in a Force made up of tinned goods, barnacles, old “backy” (which hands. Their diet is often and make up one of their five-a-day intake of vegetables) dieticians have decided can rated not by age or clarity but by its octane ratio). the local grog (which is often EU to examine the types (social, economic and length of experience) and assess the economic and length of experience) and assess EU to examine the types (social, liveaboards. motivations of long-term yacht AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 — theEvilSpirit Mollykins and rhizomes aredamagedbyyachtanchors orspeedboatpropellersforexample. do notgrowagain.Thismeansthatit is easytodestroyseagrassbedsiftheir Seagrass rhizomesonlygrowattheends. Ifarhizomeiscutintwo,theends ficult topullup.Inthisway,theyhelp tostabilizethesandonseabottom. the tubesforotherleaves,rootsandshoots toshare. water andfromtheseafloorthroughitsroots.Thefoodcanbepassed grass makesfoodbyphotosynthesisinitsleavesanditabsorbsnutrientsfromthe new lifesomewhereelse. seeds, whicharecarriedawayfromtheparentplantbywatercurrentstostart a from theseawaterasitfloatsawayflower.Theovaandpollenfusetoform do produceovaandpollen.Thepollenhasagelatinouscoatingthatprotects it ally foundonseparateplantsandmaybesmalldifficulttosee.Butyes,they as theseagrassspreadsintonewareas. ferent pointsalongtherhizome,shootssproutupwardsandrootsgrowdownward duce asexuallybysendingoutarhizomeunderthesandonseafloor.Atdif- which seagrassleavesgrow? • Seagrassmeadowsimprovethequality of theseawateraroundthem.Theirroot Is seagrassofanyusetoanyone? As rhizomesandrootsgrow,theybecome tangledandformclumpsthataredif- Rhizomes haveotheruses.Theycontainavascularsystemof‘tubes’.Thesea- Does seagrassreproducesexually? Do yourememberthenameofhorizontalundergroundstemsfrom DEEP SECRETS same thinghappened,butshewenthomehungry. was atlastfreetogohome. with allhermightbutofcoursethebakerdidn’thearher.AtfirstlightJoe stomach churnandgurglewithhunger.Mollykinsshriekedshouted Mollykins becamefrantic,andthedelicioussmellofbreadmadeher home.” Andsohedid. out. “Well,Iwon’tgohungry,”saidJoe.“I’lljusteatthisbreadwastaking dusty shirtandputitonbackwardsthensatthecoffintowait before gettingupearlyinthemorningtobakebreakfastbread. no onewouldhearher. heard throughthecoffinandnomatterhowloudlysheshriekedforhelp, Sounds easy,butMistressPotereemadesurethatMollykinscouldnotbe told Mollykinsthatifanyoneopenedthecoffintheywouldfreeher. daybreak whenitwoulddisappearandletyougohome.MistressPoteree take offyourshirtandputitonbackwardsthensitthecoffinuntil fall, anevilspiritwasafteryouandtheonlythingcoulddoto villagers knewthatifacoffinsuddenlyappearedinyourpathafternight- to herselfthatnooneinthevillagewouldeverdareinterfere.Yousee, Mollykins disappearedtheyshudderedandsaidnothing. had soldhersoultoadevilinreturnformagicalpowers.Sowhen prettiest girlinthevillage. Mistress Poteree,theevilspirit,wasjealousbecauseMollykins in acheapwoodencoffin!Mollykinshaddonenothingtodeservethisbut larly evilspirithadcaughtholdof14-year-oldMollykins—anditputher where thespiritworldwithallitsterrorsispartofeverydaylife,aparticu-

a The followingnight12-year-oldSessiwascaughtbythecoffinonher The nextnightalongcameMaMina,thesewinglady,andexactly Mollykins shoutedwithallhermight,butJoecouldn’thearher. “Oh meGod,acoffin,”whisperedJoe.Heimmediatelytookoffhisflour- That night,alongcameJoethebaker,goinghomefordinnerandbed Mistress PotereedecidedtogiveMollykinsachanceescape,laughing Now everyoneinthevillageknewthatMistressPotereewasa In aseasidevillageonlushandlovelyislandinthesouthernCaribbean, n H d a ModernFolktale e

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a y . rhizomes . Seagrassplantsrepro- CRUISING KIDS’CORNER garze who ily intheordergiven.Decodesymbolsthenfindanswertoquestion. gardens. zomes. turtles donotdestroytheseagrassbecauseshootsspringupagainfromrhi- leaves formanymarinespecies. washed away. water aroundtheleavessothatsmallcreaturescanfindrefugeandnotget from thewater. systems holdsandandmudontheseafloorwhiletheirleavestrapfineparticles —Seepuzzleansweronpage 45 Puzzle: • Deadseagrassleavesmaywashuponbeachesandcanbeusedasmulchfor • Seagrassleavesareeatenbylargermarinespecieslikegreenturtles.The • Seagrassmeadowsprovideexcellentnurserygroundswithinthetangleoftheir • Seagrassleavesactas olkn epdotadtrwhram ihl bu h ieeyed wide the about tightly arms her threw and out leaped Mollykins Poteree And, ohyes—nomore and hethoughtitwasmuchmorefuntosailwithalovingcompanion. and sailedofftogethertoseetheworld.Mollykinsadoredheryoungman of earth. and thedevildisappearedwithit.Allthatremainedwasascorchedpatch coffin. MistressPotereeandthecoffindisappearedinafieryballcloud mighty roarlikethunderandsentashaftofgreenlightningrightintothe springing fromhisforehead,pointedspearatthecoffin.Hegavea monstrous devil,dazzlingredfromheadtotoewithtwosharphorns What hadhappened? strange youngmanandheardMistressPotereeshriekinglikeabanshee. Mistress Potereehadvanished.InsteadtheysawMollykinshugginga quickly spreadthewordandeveryonerantoseeifcoffin the coffinandsheshriekedlikeabanshee. young man.MistressPotereenowfoundherselfinexplicablylockedinside Mollykins leapedoutandthrewherarmstightlyaboutthewide-eyed Poteree flewtothecoffininapanicbutbeforeshecouldslamlidshut, When hesawayounggirlinsidejumpedbackinsurprise.Mistress about, butseeingnoonehebentdownandopenedthelidofbox. for help.Theyoungmanthoughthehadheardafaintcrysolooked inside, hopingtofindsomeclueitsowner. and knewnothingaboutevilspiritsorcursedcoffinssohedecidedtolook wooden boxacrossthepath.Theyoungmanwasastrangertoislands young shipwreckedsailor,tryingtofindabedforthenight,foundlong After this,everyoneinthevillagegothomebeforedarkandthatishowa and thinner.Nextasmallboywastrapped,hecriedhimselftosleep. woke uponthehard,stonyground. way homefromheraunt’s,butshefellasleepassatonthecoffinand As youcanguess,Mollykinsmarriedtheyoungman.Theyfoundaboat The answercameasdark-rollingcloudsgatheredoverthevillageanda The villagers,whohadseenMistressPotereeflythroughtheair, Mollykins hadheardthefootfallsapproachandthenstopsoshecalled Mistress PotereelaughedlongandloudpoorMollykinsgrewthinner THE END found alongwoodenbox across thepath Sixwordsfromthepassagearewrittenbelowincodebutnotnecessar-

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AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 ! The Carenage: Monday - Thursday 8 am to 5:30 pm Friday until 8:45 pm Saturday until 1:00 pm Tel: (473) 440-2588 Grand Anse: Monday - Thursday 9 am to 5:30 pm Friday & Saturday until 7:00 pm Tel: (473) 444-4573 Compass Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of are now back as DVDs. REMEMBER restaurants and hotels. Street’s videos, first made in 1985,

Street’s guides are timeless. Street’s Guides and DVDs are available NEW! With all these updates readily available, Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. up-to-date Imray charts. Regarding marine information on tracking and securing for a storm. ☛ Full information on DVDs at www.street-iolaire.com up-to-date than any guide; similarly, the tourist or from www.iUniverse.com and www.seabooks.com departments put out a free annual guide for bars, infrastructure, virtually every island puts out a free to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in marine trade guide every year, which is much more DVDs available at Imray, Kelvin Hughes, Armchair Sailor/ Rocks don’t move — or if they do they are shown on at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, GOOD GUIDES ARE TIMELESS JONAS BROWNE & HUBBARD (G’da.) Ltd. Stock Up on the widest selection and the best prices in Grenada at our two conveniently located supermarkets. Whether it’s canned goods, dairy products, meat, fresh vegetables or fruits, toiletries, household goods, or a fine selection of liquor and wine, The Food Fair has it all and a lot more. Hubbard’s HURRICANE TIPS! Real sailors use Street’s Guides for inter-island and harbor piloting directions, plus interesting anecdotes of people, places and history. Street’s Guides are the only ones that describe ALL the anchorages in the Eastern Caribbean. • “Transatlantic with Street” documents a sailing passage from Ireland to Antigua via the Cape Verdes. 2 hours • “Antigua Week ’85” is the story of the engineless yawl Iolaire racing round the buoys to celebrate her 80th birthday. 1 hour • “Street on Knots” demonstrates the essential knots and line-handling skills every sailor should know. 1 hour • “Streetwise 1 and 2” give tips that appeared in the popular video Sailing Quarterly, plus cruises in the Grenadines, Venezuela and southwest coast of Ireland

FIGURE 1 Elongation means how many Elongation means how many This month, Venus reaches its Figure 3 shows the sun and Venus to the left (east) and a little south. You can look at Venus with your naked eye or through your binoculars but DO NOT LOOK AT THE SUN WITH YOUR BINOCULARS. In fact, if you’re going to look with binoculars degrees something appears away degrees something appears away from the sun. Since Venus is an “infe- rior” planet (closer to the sun than we are) it will have a maximum elongation of less than 180 degrees. That is, Venus will never appear high in the sky at midnight. It can’t get “behind us” since it’s inside our orbit. maximum possible elongation of 46 degrees on the 20th. What this means for you is a great chance to see Venus in the daytime! We’ve all probably noticed that you can often see the moon in the daytime. It’s big. But you can also see Venus in the daytime with clear skies. at noon on the 20th. The sun is nearly straight up at noon on that day in the Caribbean. Venus will be

FIGURE 2 Burford Books, ©2007. To Contemplate While Having a Glass of Wine on Deck I recently helped with a boat delivery, sailing from Key West to you should put the sun behind something like your mast or bimini to prevent you from accidentally focusing on it. If you’re going to use your binoculars, focus them on something VERY far away (such as the horizon) first and then scan to the left of the sun. Don’t worry if it’s cloudy on the 20th. Venus will be pretty far east from the sun all month. Kemah, Texas, which is in Galveston Bay. Short version: It was hot… very hot… with little wind. We arrived in Galveston Bay in the wee hours with a full moon setting. As the eastern sky began to lighten the moon came out from behind a cloud in the west — with a chunk missing! Partial lunar eclipse! A nice surprise and not visible in the Caribbean, as the moon would have been down already for us here. Imagine my surprise, and better yet by Scott Welty FIGURE 3 The Why Book of Sailing, THE SKY IN AUGUST SKY IN THE THE CARIBBEAN SKY: FREE SHOW NIGHTLY! SKY: FREE THE CARIBBEAN Scott Welty is the author of 17th - Moon just misses the bright star Antares (see Figure 2). 17th - Moon just misses the bright star Antares (see 20th - Venus at maximum elongation (see below). 24th - Full Moon Venus in the Daytime! Sky Events This Month 9th - New Moon Saturn, and the crescent moon. Look in the evening 13th - The spectacular grouping of Mercury, Venus, Mars, SATURN - Joins the party in the west setting just before Mars. SATURN - Joins the party The Planets this August all month. Low in the western sky at sunset. MERCURY - An evening star star also all month. VENUS - A bright evening EARTH - Stuck in an oil slick. setting around 2030. MARS - Also in the west and and 1930 later. Setting in with the other planets. Rising 2130 early in the month JUPITER - Not playing nicely imagine the surprise felt by the ancients when a chunk was missing from the moon. Actually, this was one of the imagine the surprise felt by the ancients when a chunk was missing from the moon. Actually, this was one always first clues that the Earth was a sphere as people quickly figured out that a sphere is the only shape that will lunar project a circular shadow no matter the angles involved and the shadow of the Earth on the moon during a eclipse is always circular. So there! Figure 1: Nice grouping! August 13, around 1900 hours looking west Figure 2: The Moon just misses the bright star Antares Figure 3: The sun is straight up at noon. Venus can be found about 45 degrees to the left and down a little (east and south) sky around 1900 hours (see Figure 1). the daytime. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 decided totrytrollingbetweenSt.Thomasandthe ing gear.AtthetimewewereinUSVIand gave usoneofhispinksquidlures.Outcamethefish- was sooptimisticthatourluckwouldchangehe say. Steve’senthusiasmforfishingwascontagious.He Seaman’s Elixir change whenacruisingfriendofours,Steve,on equipment away. years andlostalure.Frustrated,westowedthe reel, lures,filletknifeandsport-fishingguidebook. the localchandlery,wepurchasednecessaryrod, upon theadviceofaresidentfishingprofessionalat We weresuretocatchfish,theysaid.So,depending tances encouragedustopurchasefishingequipment. 40, world’s worstfishermen! Grant continuedtosnagfish.Noquestion,wewerethe the samepatchofwater.Ourlinesremainedslack; fishing luckwouldchange.So,wetoocastourlinesin we eagerlylistenedtoGrant’sadvice,surethatour a bass.Neverhavinghadourownsuccessatfishing, in betweenourtwodocksandwithinminutespullup apart. Grantwouldcomedowntohisdock,castaline Grant, wasanavidfisherman.Ourdockssat40feet of thebestbassfishingincountry.Ourneighbor, erty onLakeLanier,Georgia.Lanierboastssome ourselves theworld’sworstfishermen.Why’sthat? we neverfished.Welovetoeatfish,buthaveconsidered Caribbean goingonfouryearsnow,butuntilthisyear AFishTale Beginner’sLuck— This pastJanuary,however,thingswereaboutto I thinkwetrolledthelineonceinfirstthree When itcametimetooutfitour1998IslandPacket Well, backinourland-livingdays,weownedaprop- My husband,Dave,andIhavebeencruisingthe Daniell Storey Longlife. Reliability. Simplicity. Ph/Fx: 784-457-311 Port Elizabeth Caribbean Diesel Bequia [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1767 Ph: 268-460-3050 English Harbour Seagull YachtServices [email protected] Fx: 268-460-1851 Ph: 268-460-1850 English Harbour Marine PowerServices Antigua , “primedthepump”asDavelikesto , forcruising,friendsandacquain- Fx: 340-778-8974 Ph: 340-773-0289 Christiansted St. CroixMarine St Croix [email protected] Fx: 596-596-788-075 Ph: 596-596-787-196 Port ofCasePilote Inboard DieselService Martinique [email protected] Fx: 473-443-1668 Ph: 473-443-1667 St. David's Grenada Marine Grenada by MichelleDaniels S/V than 20 knots and often with an opposing current. than 20knotsandoftenwithanopposingcurrent. guaranteed abeatintotheprevailingeasterliesofmore 15 nauticalmiles,thelasttenofthosemilesisalmost south coastofMartinique.Althoughashortdistance were onourwayfromAnseD’ArlettoLeMarinalongthe like kidsatChristmastime,grinningeartoear. did. Themalemahimeasured40inches!Wewere two novicessuccessfullyhaulinacatchlikethis?We We weregiddywithexcitement.Nowtherealtest;could hard. Afterabit,itleaptoutofthewater—mahimahi! clear thatwe’dhookedsomethinglarge.Thisfishfought 0930 hours,“Fishon!”Thistime,itquicklybecame Guadeloupe, onceagaintrollingourfishingline.At we departedAntiguaandheadedsouthtowards another LittleTunny!EarlyonthemorningofApril29th sail fromBarbudatoAntigua,sureenough,wecaught islands gainedanewlevelofexcitement.Onourreturn idea oftrollingalinewhileunderway.Travelbetween caught threeLittleTunnies. April whilesailingnorthfromAntiguatoBarbudawe John. Ourfirsttasteofmackerel—delicious!Then,in Mackerel, whilesailingalongthesouthcoastofSt. March welandedourfirstfish,asix-poundKing gift, continuetrying.Andsoitcametopassthatin go findanotheroneand,atleastinthespiritof prime thepumpwithfirstpinksquid,weshould be shakenoff. the lure.Deflated,wethoughtcursewouldnever Spanish Virgins.Weactuallyhookedafish,butlost Saturday, May 22nd, anchor up at 0600 hours and we Saturday, May22nd,anchorupat0600hoursandwe How longwouldourbeginner’sluckcontinue? We werenowcompletelyhooked(punintended)onthe But DavedecidedthatifStevewaskindenoughto [email protected] Fx: 599-544-3641 Ph: 599-544-2051 Cole Bay Electec St Maarten [email protected] Fx: 758-452-4333 Ph: 758-452-1222 Rodney BayMarina The SailLoft St Lucia [email protected] Fx: 340-776-6859 Ph: 340-776-6665 Coral Bay Coral BayMarine St. John —Continued onnextpage [email protected] Fx: 868-634-4933 Ph: 868-634-4272 Chaguaramas Dockyard Electrics [email protected] Fx: 868-649-9091 Ph: 868-649-2487 Siparta Diesel TechnologyServices Trinidad Fx: 340-779-2457 Ph: 340-775-9912 Compass PointMarina All PointsMarine St Thomas [email protected] Fx: 284-494-1584 Ph: 284-494-2830 Road Town, Tortola Parts &Power [email protected] Fx: 284-494-8491 Ph: 284-494-3494 Road Town, Tortola Marine MaintenanceServices [email protected] Fx: 284-494-5389 Ph: 284-494-2400 Road Town, Tortola Cay Electronics Tortola Our secondmahicatch AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 gets a lot of the gets a lot of S/V Seaman’s Elixir S/V Seaman’s Net in my left hand, rum to anesthetize the fish in hand, rum to anesthetize Net in my left is great is this beginner’s luck thing All we can say Mahi Mahi Coconut Fingers into sticks 1 pound mahi mahi, sliced 1/2 Cup pako crumbs 1/2 Cup shredded coconut cayenne pepper milk cornstarch olive oil and shredded coco- Blend together the pako crumbs with olive oil and heat Cover the bottom of a skillet Banana Ketchup Dipping Sauce 1/4 Cup mayonnaise or yogurt 2 Tablespoons banana ketchup juice of one fresh lime Caribbean hot sauce Blend all ingredients, adding the hot sauce a drop at marks on its side! Something, most likely a barracuda, Something, most likely marks on its side! If it had of the poor mahi’s plight. had taken advantage we’d be pulling in only a head. been a shark, her up prepared as Dave brought my right, I stood measured was indeed a heavy lady and alongside. She all mahi mahi is also the most tender of 48 inches! She we’ve ever eaten. and Steve on Thanks a million for credit for making that happen. getting the pole out and your influence, Steve, on our having some fun. dashes of cayenne pepper. nut into a bowl. Add a few in milk, then roll in corn- Dip each mahi stick first and finally in the crumb starch, then dip in milk again the crumbs to adhere mixture. (The cornstarch helps to the fish sticks.) mahi to the skillet and until pan is hot. Add the mahi brown each side over medium heat, cooking until the fish is tender and flaky (3 to 4 minutes). Serve with Banana Ketchup dipping sauce (recipe below) or your own favorite. a time until you achieve the desired heat. to starboard to to starboard Daniell Storey We decided to put the rod back in its holder until the Michelle with a new job — fillet duty! Michelle with a new job — fillet reel. Hmmm, definitely still beginners in the sport of reel. Hmmm, definitely still fishing. This could get interesting. mahi mahi tired. Meanwhile, we tossed about a couple of ideas for landing the fish should Dave not be able to reel it in any further. For ten minutes the mahi mahi remained below the surface, resting. Time to change that. Dave took the reel once again and began working the fish. The mahi responded by putting up a fight and breaking the surface, then staying there. We knew then that it was quickly tiring. Dave attempted to reel in some line and luckily the line overlaid the snarl and we were in a good position to reel in our catch. As Dave reeled the mahi mahi alongside, we saw two fresh bite keep the fish off our stern while Dave reached to off our stern while Dave keep the fish some addi- wheel a bit to let out release the tension us. The fish set the fish further behind tional line and the reel over- so quickly, though, that jerked the line around the a bird’s nest mess to form spun, causing stern in this manner, apparently to cut the line on the apparently to cut the stern in this manner, are smart ask me how these fish prop. Now, don’t told. With that out, but so we’ve been enough to figure I steered this in mind, Daniell . As we watched it fight, it made a fast dash from Continued from previous page Continued from Dave reeled the fish to within about 70 feet of I called down to Dave, “Fish on!” He came to the com- I called down to Dave, “Fish Fish pots littered the 150-foot contour line so we fol- Fish pots littered the 150-foot Dramatic Diamond Rock is nothing short of the peak ofDramatic Diamond Rock is nothing As Dave set up to troll the fishing line, I said, “Those to troll the fishing line, I As Dave set up We expected an early start would give us a bit of a break, early start would give us a bit We expected an Storey the starboard side, crossing our stern to the port side. Fishermen have shared stories of fish crossing the panionway, “You’re kidding, right?” I just grinned. Onepanionway, “You’re kidding, We’d snagged somethingglance at the rod said it all. line to work the fish I hadbig, all right. As Dave took the I looked behind us and sawa moment of concern when a fishing pot back a ways. Did I snag that? But, Dave quickly relieved my concern: “Definitely a fish.” This fish was not in a hurry to show itself to us, though. It stayed deep. Looking at Dave strain, I realized whatever this was, it was larger than any of our other catches. Then, as I watched behind us, a shimmering jewel of yellow and green broke the surface and leapt into the air. Another mahi mahi! Wow, our second one! lowed the 300-foot line, making our way around lowed the 300-foot line, less than ten knots, the Diamond Rock. The wind was went below. I carefully time was 0700 hours. Dave of fish pots. The last thing navigated outside the line of them with our lure. we wanted was to snag one over at the fishing rod. I Then, “zzzzzzzz.” I looked was hooked, again! could hardly believe it! Something an underwater mountain that stands sentry off the south- an underwater mountain that it was shrouded in the earlywest tip of Martinique. Today, its tortured facade.morning mist, which softened two marlin steaks we had for dinner last night were the we had for dinner last two marlin steaks (We’d pur- so it’s time to catch another!” last of our fish Our sail from a local fisherman.) chased the marlin which has directly for Diamond Rock, plan was to head with depths contour line underwater a very steep follow the over 1,000 feet. We would quickly reaching line. There was a better- 150- to 300-foot depth contour good catches could bethan-average chance that some found here. as the winds tend to pick up later in the morning.as the winds tend — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 Bittersweet Mauby, theSummerRefresher it is Bahamas itiscalledsmoothsnakebark,andintheFrenchCaribbean Cuba namesit sumed: ous commonnames,dependingontheislandwhereitisgrownorcon- botanical nameis Caribbean andCentralAmerica.Amemberofthebuckthornfamily,its drink ismadefromthedriedbarkofasmalltreenativetonorthern (combined withsugar,herbsandspices)althoughmyresearchfound arthritis, andeveryoneknowsitisagreatcoolantonhotday. ing drink.Someclaimitasanaphrodisiac,otherssayhelpsrelieve should beharvested. shrouded inattractivepurplish-greenleaves.Thisiswhenthebark sap drainstotheroots,butatheightofrainyseasonitwillbe bitter. Duringthedryseasontreewillshedmostofitsleavesas the treematuresitbecomesscaly.Theinnerbarkislightbrownand brown. Theorange-brownbarkissmoothonyoungsmalltrees,butas posts. Thesapwoodislightbrown,whiletheheartwoodmuchdarker zon depaloma, Mauby wasalwaysaspecialholidaydrinkatourhome.Thespicy All themaubyI’vemadeanddrunkhasbeenpreparedfrombark Most Caribbeanpeopledon’tevenknowthetree,butloverefresh- The wood—hard,heavy,stronganddurableiscommonlyusedfor bois mambee mabi or mawbie, andsnakewood. mavi jayajabico . Othernamesareblackvelvet,coffeecolubrina, Colubrina elliptica inPuertoRico,Haiti,andtheDominicanRepublic; ; intheUSitissoldierwood,while . Thisbitterbarkisknownbyvari- or soda mixed withwater concentrate canbe ready drink.Mauby concentrate, orthe buying thebark, We haveachoiceof THE SPICELOCKERBYSHIRLEYHALL cora- you areaneatfreak. duce amultitudeofsmallberries.Iwouldnotrecommendthistreeif Usually thistreenotonlydropsitsleaves,butasitmatureswillpro- mauby treesareevergreen,butyouwon’tknowuntilafterplanting. usually inJulyandtheberriescomeonfromSeptembertoMarch.Some the soilconservenutrientsandwater.Smallgreenblossomsappear water. Moldingwithmulchwillgivesupporttotheyoungrootsandhelp during thedryseason,Irecommendgivingitafive-gallonbucketof sunlight afewhoursday,andlikeswell-drainedsoil.Everymonth feet, andshouldbestakedwhenhardwindsblow.Itonlyneedsdirect For theGardener Angostura bitterswillactuallybuffertheslightlybitteraftertaste. a shadedplaceovernight.Chillandenjoy. mauby mixture.Thencarefullybottle,fillingeachtotheneck.Letsitin night. heat andsimmerforanhourbeforelettingitcool,preferablyover- at leastanhour.Thenaddeverythingexcepttheyeast.Bringup acquired taste—butanaddictiveone! thing theycancompareitwithisrootbeer.Manypeoplefindan sweet, butchangestoabitteraftertaste.SomeAmericanssaytheonly be mixedwithwaterorsoda.Tothemaubynovicefirsttasteis while sometimesitisconsumedunfermented.Maubyconcentratecan “Mauby Fizz”—thereadydrink. We areluckytohaveachoiceofbuyingthebark,concentrate,or sources, thebarkisimportedfromHaitiandDominicanRepublic. million gallonsayearofmaubyconcentrate.Duetothelacklocal with coconutmilkmaylowerbloodpressure. research doneattheUniversityofWestIndies,maubycombined tes, hypertension,cholesterolandstomachdisorders.Accordingto seldom, therefreshingbarkdecoctionisusedasabittertonicfordiabe- sources thatalsousetheleavesandberries.Unsweetened,whichisvery The maubyisanicefunctionalbackyardtree.Itgrowstoabout20 Makes enoughforapartyorgifts Using brownsugarwillcontributetothedarknessofthisdrink.The Add theyeasttoaTablespoonofwaterandcombinethiswith Boil themaubybarkinonequartofwaterandletsitcoveredfor 1 Tablespoondryyeast 3 Cupsbrownsugar(moreorlesstotaste) 2 TablespoonsAngosturabitters 12 wholecloves 1 Tablespoongroundnutmeg 1 stickofcinnamon 1/2 Cupofthinlyslicedpeeledgingerroot 1 stemofrosemary 1 bunchanise(optional) 4 sprigsofmarjoram 1 gallonoffreshwater 6 piecesofmaubybark Mauby IslandTotalRefresher Often thedrinkisfermentedusingaportionofpreviousbatch, People lovemauby!Trinidadlocallyproducesmorethanoneandahalf use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationabout thisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. Tel. StVincent +784 4573407Tel. StMaarten+5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ, PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] CREW VACANCIES! operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines .

AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 : IW_djBkY_W ;GK?L7B;DJJE 7B;L;B9EKHI;I Compass H;=?IJ;HDEM Whad[iil_W[cW_b ehYWbbkied0 J^[?dj[hdWj_edWbIY^eeb Caribbean’, Part One: The DR Month’s Carriacou Regatta Festival 2010 and they AM —Continued on next page . Note that there are not AM By the way, all of the above incidents were reported incidents were reported By the way, all of the above The Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard (TTCG) have Another hail to the Coast Guard is their idea of filing Pirogues, TTCG, the Harbor Pilot boat (the worst), I would also have to agree with Mr. Llewellyn that I further agree with Mr. Llewellyn’s assessment of The solution. If the police and Coast Guard could one, but two large Coast Guard stations less than two one, but two large Coast Guard of theft. As of this writ- miles on either side of the area be recovered, even with a ing the dinghy has yet to offending pirogue, motor, detailed description of the working security cameras occupants and supposedly directly at the dinghies. at Peake’s boatyard aimed can also add “misin- to YSATT, so Mr. Stollmeyer fact, shortly after the five formed” to his resumé. In cruiser reported over the boat break-ins occurred, a hoping that it was Mr. net that a YSATT official (I’m officials aren’t of the Stollmeyer and that all YSATT all the thief did was rum- same grain) told him that looking for drugs. Period. mage through first-aid kits if the reporting sailor When another net user asked he wisely said that he believed that to be accurate, was likely understating for believed the YSATT official and kindly call it denial tourism reasons. I personally official(s) that shows on the part of this (these) YSATT a grave disregard for the wellbeing, safety and security of cruisers. I’m afraid that if a cruiser was mur- dered during one of these robberies that the Stollmeyer/YSATT report would be that they accidentally stepped in front of a knife… this is paradise, Mon! The police and Coast Guard take the same bury- their-head-in-the-sand, don’t-bother-me-I’d-rather- lime approach. Cruisers aren’t even a distant consideration in my opinion. new, fast boats. That’s got to be good, right? Unfortunately all they seem to accomplish in them is joy riding. I was anchored out from Power Boats one night as they flew wide open, 700-horsepower strong beside the commercial dock; a hundred yards from the mooring field they chopped their throttles, gunned the motors at full throttle, chopped them again…. Apparently they were mimicking the local pirogues by trying to see how high they can make the bow rise. I, in four months time, have seen the Coast Guard board one boat. This was because the captain of this particular catamaran fell asleep while coming from Grenada and hit a local trawler. a “sail plan” from Trinidad to Grenada and vice versa. The last boat arriving from Grenada filing this “sail plan” attempted to contact TTCG for hours via VHF and mobile phone, to let them know they had arrived safely — with no response. The cruisers finally had to have YSATT call the Coast Guard. However, if you’re on the beach wearing a G-string or want to race your boat… they’ve got you covered, Babe! (Call the Venezuelan Guardia Costa instead for even less concern.) and 90 percent of all the power boats fly through the mooring field and by all of the marinas creating tremendous wakes. I helped an elderly British couple dock at the Customs steel-and-concrete boat demoli- tion dock Mr. Llewellyn referred to, and at Power Boats, because they had no chance alone with pirogues flying by creating two- and three-foot wakes that reverberated off the wall. This is the rule, not the exception. I haven’t figured out if it is out of ignorance, disrespect, or showing off. YSATT has had many complaints about this, including one from me. It is a dangerous activity and one must keep a close eye out constantly, especially at night as they also run with no lights on for the most part. Mr. Stollmeyer is equally in the dark again I guess. the floating garbage problem is one of the worst in the world. To think locals swim and play in this hepatitis-, tetanus-, and e coli-laced crap should be enough to get any government or legitimate organization to address the problem, let alone Mr. Stollmeyer to at least acknowledge the safety concern, but what do they do? The government starts a campaign to promote eco- tourism to foreigners as many of their cleaner neigh- bors have done! Denial. the cruising population. Only a year ago we could not find a mooring or place to anchor. Finally, we had to anchor very far to the west among the commercial boats. Now I rarely see a day without a vacant mooring ball. Many marinas are almost empty or partially full. If YSATT (Mr. Stollmeyer) estimates an approximately 30-percent loss of business… blame it all on the economy? Don’t think so. possibly be persuaded to do their jobs — i.e. catch thieves, stop wakes, stop looking at these new-fangled boats as toys — it could only help. If Mr. Stollmeyer and other Trinidadians would realize how much income cruisers bring into their economy… finally responded at 5:00 alluding to. Namely, denial. As stated, all of the thefts denial. As stated, all alluding to. Namely, the cruis- described were reported over Mr. Llewellyn there have YSATT — fact. Since then ers’ net and to of clothes, broken into and stripped been five boats witnessed the and electronics. I bicycles, computers, owners and and spoke with two of the investigations boats. A of some of the breached two caretakers cover was a Yamaha motor and blue 14-foot RIB with it was appar- Regarding the latter: taken just recently. to the Coast Guard at 3:00 ently reported

— a I was would S/V Itza gives us forum Mariposa’s Compass compensation S/V Kokopelli

' . Why does Upman not S pay R E M with , , U D A R appreciate Compass Compass E , disturbed me because Lamb encourages a “boat O In this letter, Gary Upman of Now, in case you feel that I am carrying on at length Like most of us who have been sailing for any length In response to Ron Llewellyn’s evaluation of Trinidad While browsing through the May 2010 edition of While browsing through the Ironically enough, I was sailing along, stewing over What further disturbs me is that Thank you for sharing your thought-provoking take on And that was good enough for me. With Upman’s I have discussed this insidious us-and-them attitude FFORUM READERS' RREADERS' over nothing, let us explore letter number two from the over nothing, let us explore letter number two from the same issue. of time, I have assisted many boaters over the years of time, I have assisted many boaters over the years and have yet to receive a penny for my efforts. No pay- ments were offered and none was expected. My reward lay in simply knowing that I was able to help. This is how boating should be, or at least I feel so. and Donald Stollmeyer of YSATT’s response, both in the July issue’s Readers’ Forum, I would like to say that I know for a fact that all of the events that Mr. Llewellyn reported are true from my experience here and as reported on the daily cruisers’ net. Mr. Stollmeyer’s response was very unprofessional and childish, reminding me of Tattoo of Fantasy Island fame: “This is paradise… nothing bad happens here”. It also represents the problem that Mr. Llewellyn was Purla boy” to claim a fee for assisting a yachtsman in an emergency. Since when is payment of fees the expected outcome of assistance? Helping people in crisis is — or at least was — what civilized people do. not one, but three examples of boat boys not being monetarily rewarded for their assistance. What stood out only too glaringly in Upham’s second and third examples of yachtsmen abusing the locals is that in both examples other yachtsmen also helped to avert calamity. Furthermore, Upman seems to confuse the word public place for the open exchange of ideas and opinions (and for further discussion of those ideas and opinions) — rather than an “amen corner” that only echoes sentiments endorsed by the editor. CC Dear your magazine I came across two letters in your your magazine I came across left me feeling a bit Readers’ Forum section that Charles Lamb of uneasy. The first letter, by this well-intended bigotry, when I spotted the crew of a St. Vincent pirogue desperately signaling my atten- tion. The nature of their distress need not concern us here: what matters is that I ended up towing them for several hours, until we reached a safe anchorage. Their poor boat handling left a gouge in Dear lament the plight of the poor un-paid yachtsmen? Why are his sentiments so discriminating? And then, he goes on to insult the civility of West Indian people by asking the hypothetical question, “Why get involved at all if it isn’t appreciated?” the content of the letters mentioned. We’re sorry, however, that you were disturbed by the fact that they were published. We call our letters section the Readers’ Forum precisely because we intend it to be a “why get involved” attitude, I expect there would be “why get involved” attitude, I expect there would be three fewer islanders alive today. with other yachtsmen and know that my sentiments are shared by many. We all look forward to your comments. Sincerely, Daniel Mead S/V Mariposa Dear Daniel, hull and their poor seamanship required them to cut hull and their poor seamanship required them to cut the towline — my line! The only offered was a hearty thanks and a wave good-bye. print not just one, but two of these sorrowfully mis- guided letters, seemingly endorsing their discrimina- tory leanings. AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Dear Donald Stollmeyer tive aspectsofTrinidad. and anappreciationforthemany,manyposi- the shortcomings,thereisaneedforbalancedview are beingworkedupon.Inthemeantime,regardlessof but Icanassuretheyachtingcommunityissues “denial”. Itwilltakesometimetoaddressalltheissues Trinidad &Tobago(YSATT).Idon’tthinkthisindicates laboration withtheYachtServicesAssociationof ment-appointed committeethatInowchair,incol- comings areactivelybeingworkeduponbyagovern- and soforth.Atthepresenttimemanyoftheseshort- stop speedingboatsfromdrivingthroughtheharbour, Customs dockcouldbeimproved,yesthereisneedto improved. Yes,thereisrubbishinthesea,yes uct inTrinidad/Chaguaramasthatneedtobe is thatthereareseveralaspectsoftheyachtingprod- letter istodenigrateanddosointheextreme. at it,IcanonlyconcludethepurposeofMr.Llewellen’s stand achance.”? industry doesnotrest.Thehowlermonkeysdon’t could possiblyleadMr.Llewellentosay,“Theoil and Ihaveneverseenahowlermonkeyhere,sowhat been workinginChaguaramasharboursince1981 tion manyyearsago;itwasnotstolen. was removedwhenabuildingerectedinitsloca- the dockorwakesfrompassingboats. Customs dock)andIhaveneverhadaproblemwith dock dayandnight(manyislandsdonotevenhavea come acrossanislandofrubbish. Trinidad oncountlessoccasionsandIhavenever letter basedonmypersonalexperiences: are notavailableintheotherislands. experiences awaitingcruisingvisitors,manyofwhich huge amountofgoodandaplethorawonderful cruiser fromvisitingTrinidadwhen,infact,thereisa that wouldseverelydiscourageanyopen-minded sought toconveyanextremelynegativeviewpoint,one be inastateofdenial. Trinidad’s yachtingproductforfartoolongtopossibly shortcomings andhavebeentryingtoimprove am inastateofdenial,hardlylikely;Ihaverecognised cated myposition.AstoMr.Minks’accusationthatI course opentolegitimatecriticism...”wouldhaveindi- the firsttoagreethatTrinidadisnotperfectandof thought myopeningstatement,quote,“...Iwouldbe fine. ThisisfarfromwhatIintendedandwouldhave anyone tothinkIwassayingeverythinginTrinidadis Dear CompassReaders, opportunity torespond.Hisreplyappearsbelow. S/V Argonauta Rob Minks Sincerely, long-term friendships. understand businessandprofessionalismaswell bers andemployees,thatwe’vemetherewhodo hard working,decentpeople,includingYSATTmem- soon onceourrepairsaremade. complaints, myfamilywillnotbereturninganytime Stollmeyer showedafellowcruiserwithlegitimate times ofneed,andforthedisrespectarrogance cruisers areatight-knitcommunity,especiallyin losing businessandpossiblylives.Inmanyways with attitudeslikeStollmeyer’s,Trinidadwillcontinue in theentireCaribbeanandtakeaction.Otherwise, this areahasthehighestcrimerateaimedatcruisers solved. Someoneisgoingtohaveacknowledgethat and isn’tsafeanymore,someoftheproblemsmaybe and infactdo,goelsewhereasTrinidadisn’tabargain …(a tiredoldline)andthattheydohaveachoiceto, — their activities,Ihavehadseveralreports fromdiffer- to allowabunchofthugsterrorizetheir seas. their waters,andletthemknowTrinidad wasnotgoing out whatallthoseVenezuelanpirogues were uptoin & TobagoCoastguard.Theyneededtoget out there,find was averyoffensive,proactiveapproachby theTrinidad ented towarddefense.Itseemedtomewhat weneeded passage. Thesemeasureswereallverysensible butori- posed, andsomeputinplace,tokeepyachts safeonthat informed ofsomethemeasuresthathavebeenpro- of Grenada(MAYAG)wasverygoodaboutkeepingus activities dealtwithwithoutconsequence. In addition,priortothatthereweresomesuspicious the successfulonebeinglast(inDecember2009). act ofpiracyagainstyachtsenroutefromGrenada, with regardtotheoneattemptedandcompleted I wishtorepeatandmakeitveryclear:myposition I cangivemanymoreexamplesbut,howeverlook • TheoiIindustrydisplacinghowlermonkeys.Ihave • The“stolen”no-wakezonesign.sign • TheCustomsdock.Ihavetieduptothe • Islandsofrubbish.Ihavesailedinandout Let merefertojustafewexamplesinMr.Llewellen’s Be thatasitmay,Mr.Llewellen’sletterclearly I apologizeifmyreplytoMr.Llewellen’sletterled Editor’s note:WehaveofferedMr.Stollmeyerthe I sincerelyapologizeforthislaboriousdecisiontothe While theT&TCoastguardisverytight-lipped about James PascaloftheMarineandYachtingAssociation Trinidad hasbeenalotinthenewsrecently,mostly Continued frompreviouspage Compass , to the“ female peersareprotectedbyagefrombeingsubjected “home fromhome”intheJuneissueof by peoplewhoaremorecompetitiveandkeen. tomer’s pointofview,anopportunitytogetworkdone my stay.Anydownturninbusinessis,fromacus- election andratheroptimistic,Icertainlyenjoyed way. Ifoundeveryonewasveryupbeatabouttherecent fast-food boxesoverboard,butithasalwaysbeenthat Trinidadians canbeprettybadaboutthrowingtheir had plentyofboats,althoughtheywerenotfull.Yes, solid, andbothPeakeYachtServicesCoralCove it wasthesameoldTrinidad.PowerBoatsbooked anti-fouling-splattered spectacles.AsfarasIcouldsee, was sonegativeIthinkhemustbeviewingitthrough when anchoring.Tellthemtopissoff, thatyouare “Just tellthemtogoaway.Theywillcome uptoyou that typeofvendorsharedherhandling methods: versation, theBritishwomanwhohas encountered “take on”aggressivebehaviour.Overhearing ourcon- were sayinghowourpersonalitiesarenot thekindto that describethesevendorsasbeingpushy. SheandI cussing ourreluctancetovisitsomeof the countries Bahamas. Onthebus,anotherwomanand Iweredis- a Britishwomanwhileridingonbus tourinthe there couldbequiteaggressive.Iwasalsotoldthisby Saintes toPortsmouth,Dominica. Dear Trinidad Mike Hatch (473) 444-1931. Float planscanbefiledleavingGrenadabyphoneat [email protected] orbyphoneat(868)634-1476. station there. around ___(time),whenIwillcontactthecoastguard (date) boundfor______(arrivalport). ______(departureport)at___(time)on____ useful, forgivingalltheinformationrequired: have madeoutaformthatotherboatersmightfind either coastguard,GrenadaorTrinidad&Tobago,I Dear Ti Kanot Chris Doyle Happy sailing, could startheexclaimed:“Notyou,theotherone!” was thesoundofhisballsdeflating.Butbeforeshe sender theevileyeandaskhimifnoisesheheard usual “ woman inarestaurantSt.Vincent.Sheheardthe straw camewhenshewaswithanotheryoungSwedish her nuts,thoughitdidnotintimidateher.Thefinal years agoIwasmarriedtoayoungSwedeanditdrove has certainlybeenaroundalongtime.Many,many most endearingfeatureofCaribbeanculture,butit of TrinidadpaintedbyRonLlewellyninJuly’s visitors inTrinidadisduetofearsofpiracy.Thepicture correct insuggestingthatthedecreaseyachting activities oftheT&TCoastguard,asIthinkYSATTis boat theyhavearighttopasscloseby. ly fishermen.Aslongastheyarenotendangeringmy would notwanttodamageaninnocentboatorfriend- None ofmycrewnoticedittillwasquiteclose.I by withtwofishermenwavinginafriendlymanner. ed thataVenezuelanfishingpiroguehadzoomedclose When Icamebackondeck,therestofcrewreport- approaching TrinidadIwentbelowtocleanupamess. Compass the boat,ashasbeensuggestedbysomereadersin very judiciousaboutapplyingapiratetraplinebehind experience leadstomethinkthatyouwouldhave in daylighthoursrathercalmweather,andmy dim viewoftheirextracurricularactivities. their activitieswouldmakebossestakeavery extra heatthathasbeenappliedbythecoastguardto number ofpeopleinapirogue),Iwouldimaginethe out forextrabooty(thatwouldexplainthegunsand tinue tosailTrinidadwithconfidence. hope theycontinuewiththesepatrols,sowecancon- congratulate theTrinidad&TobagoCoastguardand of suspiciousactivityinthepassage.Iwouldliketo since DecemberandIhavenotheardevenonereport have sailedbetweenTrinidadandtheotherislands more attemptsatpiracy.Asitis,hundredsofboats it. Hadtheydonenothing,Iwouldhaveexpectedtosee ent sourcesthattheyhavedonejustthis,andIbelieve Like RuthLund,whowroteaboutherTrinidad I hadreadinChrisDoyle’sbookthat“boatvendors” In AprilmyhusbandandIsailedfromlesIlesdes Float planscanbefiledleavingTrinidadbye-mailto Signed ______Radio equipmentonboard______Master ______# ofpersonsaboard_____ Colour _____ Type _____ Flag ____ Boat Name_____ I expecttoarriveat______(arrivalport) I wouldliketofileafloatplanfortripdeparting In ordertomakeiteasyfilea“floatplan”with It isashamethatwehavenotheardmoreaboutthe I sailedfromGrenadatoTrinidadinJunethisyear, If thepirateswerereturningdrugrunnerslooking Compass Compass pssst psssst . Therewerefourofusonboard.Aswe ” behindherandsheturnedtogiveits ” ofadmiringworkers.Thisisnotthe , , Compass Compass , my

your boat.Itboilsdowntorespect. sation orwavethemovertoyou,theydo notcometo they comeclosetoyou,butunlessyouinitiate conver- adopt theapproachofvendorsin Bequia. There or accept. future vendors,butwillsmileandpolitely decline etcetera wespentUS$1,000inRoseau). towing charges,groceries,Customsfees,restaurants, (it shouldbenotedthatbetweenrepairs,mooringfees, I willchoosetospendmyhard-earnedmoneyelsewhere of thisIwillnevergobacktoPortsmouthinDominica. friendliness” theaggressivevendordescribed.Because scared andthreatened,notatallfeelingthe“happy that whenweweresurroundedinPortsmouthIonlyfelt the area,andfeelingacertainamountofstress.Iknow ing intoananchoragewearetired,hungry,oftennewto They couldnothavebeenmoreaccommodating. and wesawthemmanytimesduringourstaythere. enjoyed alovelymealwithhiswife,sonanddaughter, in ordertohaveourrepairdonethreedays.We around theclock,jugglinghisothercustomerorders the startofhurricaneseason,Alanworkedalmost Knowing westillhadagreatdistancetotravelbefore have aspareincasethenewoneshouldbreak. and evenre-weldedtheoriginalshaftsothatwewould He wastotallycommittedtogettingusoperational, his cartofourscrapyardslocatethecorrectshaft. Canefield, managedbyAlanMorris.droveusin sal joints.WeusedtheservicesofMDMEnterprisesin transmission andgetareplacementshaftuniver- there onincouldn’thavebeenmorehelpful. Pancho, SeaCat,andalltheDominicanswemetfrom to aSeaCatmooringballintheRoseauharbour. a largerboat.Threehourslaterweweresafelysecured enlisted thehelpofhiscompetitor“SeaCat”whohad not havingabigenoughboattotowusthatdistance, Dominica! Weradioed“PanchoYachtServices”who, we wereninemilesoffthesouthcoastofland— make landfallanywherewecould.Ontheseventhday ing wewouldnotmakeSt.Lucia,sailedwantingto with nowind.Withourfrustrationgrowing,andknow- current tookusoffshore.Webobbedatseaforsixdays extensive repairfacilitiesthere.Thewinddiedandthe tried toreachSt.Luciaastheguidebooksoutlined our driveshaftthathadbroken.Nowundersailwe we heardanoise,andafterinvestigatingdiscovered plans tostopinRoseau,Dominicaabandoned. Early thenextmorningwedepartedforMartinique,our evening. Weweretired,hungry,stressedandscared. when tryingtoanchor. we weresurroundedbyoneateachcornerofourboat a board.Atotalofsixvendorshadapproachedus,and were liftingit,yetanothervendorwaspaddlingouton property, weliftedouranchoranddeparted.While threat, andfearingretributiontoourselvesorour leave, youarenotwelcomehere”.Takingthisasa looked myhusbandintheeyeandsaid,“Youbetter told meIwasnotwelcomethenapproachedthebow, him thathe“mustbuyaflag”.Thevendorwhohad we hadclearedCustoms.Thevendorkeptbadgering snubber lineinplaceandwouldmaybebuyaflagonce flag”. Myhusbandsaidthathewasbusygettingthe husband thathe“hadtobuyaDominicancourtesy talking tomyhusband.Thatvendorwastelling the boat,oneonmyportside,otheratbow people. YouarenotwelcomeinDominica.” “You arenotfriendly.Dominicansfriendly,happy sisted andIkepttryingtoputhimoff.Finallyhesaid, fer todiscussbusinesswithhimtomorrow.Heper- responded terselysayingwewerebusyandwouldpre- and, usingthetechniqueI’dbeencoachedin,I side ofhisboat.Hetriedtoengagemeinconversation, man wasshirtlessandhadnoidentificationonthe on communicatingwithmyhusbandtoanchor.The on thestarboardsideofourboat.Iwasconcentrating sider buyingfruitanotherday.Angrilytheyleft. now wewerebusytryingtoanchor,andwouldcon- My husbandthenfurtherdeclined,sayingthatright are differentthanAlexisandthattheysellonlyfruit. and depart.)Thetwomenrespondedbysayingthey a vendortodealwith,thattheotherswillrespect (Chris’ booksaidthatifyoutellthemhavechosen declined, sayingwewere“beinglookedafterbyAlexis”. in aboat,wantingtosellusfruit.Myhusband anchor, whenwewereapproachedbytwoothermen in theanchorageandlookingforaplacetodrop are dealingwithme”.Atapproximately5:00 said, “Ifanyonetherecomesuptoyou,tellthemyou was difficulttoconverse,sobeforespeedingoffhe first vendor,FaustinAlexis.Withthemotorrunningit offshore fromPortsmouthwewereapproachedbythe countries fromtheBahamastoSaintes.Twomiles eled, havingnoproblemsofthiskindinanythe right intheeyeandbefirm.” busy nowandtocomebacklater.Bedirect,lookthem The Portsmouthvendorswouldbewell advisedto I willnotemploythe“dismissive”method withany Vendors shouldknowthatwhenwecruisersarecom- We stayedinDominicathreemoreweekstopullthe While undersailbetweenDominicaandMartinique Finding aquietspotfurthersouthweanchoredforthe In themeantime,twofurthervendorshadcometo Then athirdvendorapproachedmebythecockpit Armed nowwiththe“righttechnique”,offwetrav- —Continued onnextpage PM wewere AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39

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UK SP1 2LP, Admiral Marine Ltd, 4 Barnack Centre, Blakey Rd, Salisbury, E-mail: [email protected] www.admiralyacht.com Web: +44 (0)1722 416106 Tel: Fax: +44 (0)1722 324455 Admiral Marine Limited is authorised & regulated by the Financial Services Authority Year-round insurance coverage business for 47 years. I have developed a rapport with brokers and underwriters at Lloyds and am able to introduce boat owners to specialist brokers in the Lloyds market. is Mermaid —Continued on page 45 letter writers have offered comments letter writers have offered , , at Boca Del Toro and bent on to see what at Boca Del Toro and bent Compass Compass Compass Mermaid Now we had to rope it and stick on the cringles. As rope it and stick on the Now we had to Many This cruising season, we decided to venture over to In two lovely weeks cruising from Le Marin up to La Although small (it stretches only about 25 miles from After sailing the Eastern Caribbean, we think Caribbean, we think After sailing the Eastern The country also has a much-discussed reputation Venezuelans on the whole are a gracious and wel- Altogether, Venezuela is a fascinating country and it looked like. We think it will be a strong sail. Maybe it looked like. We think it will on it, but that adds to a few too many barefoot prints kind of guy, the charm; John is a barefoot ings. On the way to Bonaire (even though we did not we did not way to Bonaire (even though ings. On the up the tab- going to Bonaire) we sewed know we were machine. In patches with our small leings and corner we got the a nice clean dock available, Bonaire, with patches, and sewed on all the other big machine out Panama the the like. On the way to reef bands and even in grommets by hand, furiously gang sewed watch on the quarterdeck. working on night cement float- had an equally nice large it happens, we complete with awning and ing dock at Isla Flamenco Jo, Brad, Ollie, Nadia, light to work with. So Rebecca, got done in time to toss Nadja and others got to it. And Ollie and WT to get it to it on a small hop plane with the a barefoot kind of vessel…. Daniel Moreland, Captain Picton Castle Dear the mysterious east coast of Martinique. Stopping first at Le Marin on the south coast, we were stunned by the incredible number of yachts there, perhaps as many as 500. Next we were astounded by the several cruisers we met in Le Marin who were mortified that we intended to visit the east coast, even though none of them had ever cruised there themselves! Lastly, we were absolutely delighted with what a wonderful little cruising ground the east side offers, and were amazed to find that virtually no-one cruises there. Caravelle and the Baie du Tresor, we met only one (yes, only one!) other cruising yacht. In spite of the availability of Jerome Nouel’s truly outstanding cruising guide, Martinique’s east coast is absolutely the Caribbean’s best-kept secret. Martinique’s southeast tip up to the northeast tip at La Caravelle), the east coast is a marvel of a cruising ground. It offers the adventurous “just anchor behind the reef and hope it doesn’t blow too hard” kind of anchorages but also has many well-protected, deep and calm coves surrounded by Martinique’s verdant land- scapes. Best of all, the area offers both types of anchorage, and everything in between, within only a few miles of travel! The scenery ranges from bucolic pastureland and wildly flowered gardens to a classic “palm trees on a sandbar” island out on the barrier reef called Loup Garou. The “fonds blancs” (white bottomed lagoons) of Baignoire de Josephine (Josephine’s Bathtub) and the Isle de Madame are gorgeous areas for picnicking, snorkeling and just enjoying nature. In many anchorages, very good, shallow and calm snorkeling can be found just by hopping off your stern. There are quite a few interesting sites and activities: bird rookeries; a colony of endangered, rare, endemic iguanas; the ruins of an impressively large pottery factory; the park trails around Pointe Caracoli, where resident mongooses and stunning views can be found. For the essentials of pro- visioning, there are even a couple of small and pleasant towns (François and Robert) that are easily reached for groceries or a patisserie. on that large South American landfall south of landfall south of on that large South American cents worth. Grenada, so here is our two as a cruising destina- Venezuela is underappreciated waters and scenery in the tion. It has some of the best to come and go are Caribbean. Customs procedures not difficult. There are fewer marinas available in Venezuela, and at least one, Bahia Redonda in Puerto la Cruz, is a first class operation at bargain prices. for being dangerous. During our year in Venezuela we’ve met many other liveaboards and visitors. Some have had security issues, occasionally serious. If you go, learn what you can beforehand from reliable sources and avoid known problem areas if possible. It also doesn’t hurt to be aware of the general political situation, which is on the mind of virtually every Venezuelan and determines important aspects of everyday life, such as money exchange. Overall we feel that a little advance planning, taking appropriate precautions and being alert will give you the same level of safety as anywhere else in the world. coming people who try to be helpful even if you are self-conscious about your Spanish or lack of it. Looking inland, the country has an amazing variety of sights to offer. As in some other countries, we are still puzzled that long-distance bus operators don’t seem to know the difference between air conditioning for passengers and refrigeration. So if you choose to explore the interior of the country by road, bring a few warm clothes. worth a visit, without the worry of hurricanes. Larry and Debra S/V Debonair Dear Picton is a 50-foot and her skipper of to Martin Jennett of Mermaid Satori Mermaid sailing again we can all thank back to life to sail again, some- in the Grenadines. To say the least, Satori Satori moored in hot steamy Balboa on the Pacific side Scaramouche Continued from previous page Continued from In Anguilla, with Captain Kevin Gray’s masterful In Anguilla, with Captain Kevin Gray’s masterful Well, there we were, through the Canal, the I have given the schooner He will bring I hope one day you try Portsmouth again, and find In your letter it does seem that on arrival you were It sounds to me like all the crack-heads descended Then I do add: “Be wary of others, especially those Then I do add: “Be wary of “Dominica has an exemplary group of young men “Dominica has an exemplary You may have had a very old guide of mine, because You may have had a very old I am happy that you managed, after some frustra- I am happy that you managed, Name Withheld by Request Name Withheld she’d got- As Name Withheld mentioned Editor’s note: No country should allow bullying of visitors, because allow bullying of visitors, No country should long renown, John Smith. The help and encouragement, we got the sailcloth landed help and encouragement, we got the sailcloth landed in from Doyle’s in Barbados. Then we immediately laid out and cut the sail and seamed it up on our big machine at Roy’s Place on the beach at Sandy Ground. We did the second layout there, too, right away in order to get the final dimensions and table- Castle of the Isthmus of Panama, getting ready to shove off into the broad South Pacific Ocean, working hard to get provisioned and stowed, sailing time bearing down on us — and we had to get this new mainsail finished for the legendary sloop wooden working sloop built in Carriacou without an engine in the 1960s. So many like her were built for trading in the Grenadines, fishing and maybe once in a while a leetle bit of smuggling of rum, whiskey and cigarettes from St. Barth’s before that island blew up and became a jet-set destination. With jutting bow- sprit and a raking mast she is little different than the small pyrate sloops that once did their deeds o’ swash- buckling in the isles of the Caribbees. Union Island, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Martin is Union Island, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Martin is someone I do not really know personally but I do know a little of what he has done in the world of traditional sailing. I read of him and his rebuilding of the schooner thing I can’t do anymore. For want of a better explana- tion, after 16 years I lost what Rocky (in the movie) called “the eye of the tiger”. So when you are down island and see Martin and what he is doing in the sailing world! Scott Nichols Retired Dear Compass Readers, out how nice it can be. My suggestion is you contact out how nice it can be. My suggestion is you contact one of the good guys in advance and have him meet you as come in to anchor. Best wishes, Chris Doyle, author Cruising Guide to the Leeward Islands Dear Compass Readers, I admire him and what he is doing: chartering old traditional sailing vessels, rebuilding them and bringing them back to life. somewhat apprehensive, and when people tell you things like “tell them to piss off” the emotional tone of this maybe put you even more on your guard. So it could be unruly vendors plus your apprehensions fed into the way you dealt with them, and managed to make the situation worse than it need have been. I must say when I have told people to “Please wait till I have anchored, Ithen I will talk with you”, they have always agreed. If am dealing with someone I am not sure about, my policy is to ask his name first thing. That way I know who I am dealing with and if there is an altercation, I can be specific if I want some help dealing with it. on you at once! However, most of us have not had as on you at once! However, most of us have not had as much hostility as you described since the bad old days of many years ago. Had you stayed, I am sure Faustin Alexis would have sorted things out for you. that paddle out on surfboards. This is the way some that paddle out on surfboards. young guys start up (I first met Jeffrey this way), which is fine, but one or two crack-addicts are also out there. If you have any problems with any vendor, call Sea Bird (Jeffrey), the current president, or failing him, another PAYS member.” who provide the main yacht services for yachts. Not who provide the main yacht fruits, bread and ice, take only will they help you get and act as a water your laundry, find a technician, in the group called PAYS taxi, but they act together Yacht Services), which pro- (Portsmouth Association of dinghy docks, and tries vides security, helps maintain good stay.” to make sure yachts have a I do not think I have called the vendors in Portsmouth I do not think I have called current section on these pushy for many years. My men starts off: tions, to find how helpful and welcoming people can be tions, to find how helpful and the impossible: to get in Dominica. You even managed Sea Cat working harmoni- “arch-rivals” Pancho and ously together! ten advice about the vendors in Portsmouth from Chris the vendors in Portsmouth ten advice about which we asked Chris for his comments, Doyle’s book, appear below. Dear Name Withheld, guess what? They don’t come back. guess what? They — AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 luxuriated inhisprivateyacht Doc andhishenchmen.TrujillorantheDominicanRepublic, Bahamas ortheLesserAntilles.HaitiwasundercontrolofPapa ing southreallyhadonlytwocruising-destinationchoices,the Eastern CaribbeanratherthanthepassagethroughBahamas. have alwaysurgedtheoffshorepassagefromEastCoastto the areaeastofalinerunningfromMonaIslandtoArubaandwhyI to taskforignoringthoselatterareas. the DominicanRepublicandwesternCaribbean.Init,hetakesme Windward” fromtheUSEastCoasttoCaribbean,andforcruising presented anexcellentjustificationforfollowingthe“ThornlessPathto by aBritish-appointedgovernorwhohadrealauthoritybackedup Islands wereUSgoverned,theBritishislandsallstillcoloniesrun was peaceful,lawabidingandwellrun.PuertoRicotheUSVirgin cruising theVenezuelancoastandoffshoreislandsunappealing. them. Luckilynoonewaskilled.Needlesstosaythissituationmade yachts forboatstryingtosmuggleinCastro’sguerillasandfiredat boats. Inacoupleofinstances,theVenezuelanCoastGuardmistook the universities.CastrowassmugglingguerillasintoVenezuelavia student strikesandriots,tothepointthatgovernmentclosedall dead towindward.) Caribbean ofabout1,400miles,some1,200mileswhichwouldbe was afairlyeasy630-milesail,easierthanthesailtoEastern Islands, whichbecameverypopularwithyachtsmenfromTampaasit area ofpeaceandtranquilityinthewesternCaribbeanwasBay owned byrichgringoswhoshouldberelievedoftheirmoney.(Theone tains, CustomsandImmigrationofficersallfeltvisitingyachtswere Panama wastheWildWest. and Conservatives.ExceptintheCanalZoneSanBlasIslands, Thomas wasanattractivealternativetotheThornlessPath. days, theoffshorepassagefromMoreheadCityorBeaufortdirecttoSt. ing route,makingitunattractivetotheinnocentyachtsman.Inthose 1960s throughtheearly’80s,TheBahamaswasamajordrug-traffick- end ofPuertoRico,or320milesontoSanJuan.Fromthemiddle chain, itwasanon-stopbeattowindwardof240milesthewestern Moreover, fromTurks&Caicos,theeasternendofBahamian official whohadagun. fair gametobefleecedbyCustoms,Immigration,thePoliceandany Marines weresentintotheDRin1965.Inbothcountriesyachts Dear CompassReaders, In 1956,whenIfledthecanyonsofNewYork,yachtsmanhead- A lookbackinhistorywillexplainwhyIhavealwayswrittenabout In contrasttotheabove-enumeratedproblems,EasternCaribbean In thelate1950searly‘60s,Venezuelawashavingaproblemwith The eastcoastofCentralAmericawasanareawheretheportcap- Colombia wasinthebeginningsofacivilwarbetweenLiberals The Bahamas,illlitandpoorlycharted,wasagoodplacetoavoid. Frank Virgintino’sLetteroftheMonthinMayissue the Month Letter of Sea Cloud . Tostopacivilwar,theUS Compass

viable option. explore Jamaica,perhapsCuba,andthewesternCaribbeanisnowa Republic, thencruisingtheDominicanRepublicandsailingonto the otherthenchooseyouranchorage.) Eric Bauhaus.IadvisebuyingBOTHguides:crosscheckoneagainst Tom Zydler,and Panama andtheSanBlasislands: western Caribbean.Itisinterestingtonotetherearetwoguides men haveheadedwest.(Guidebooksarenowavailableformuchofthe officialdom, crowdedanchoragesandcrime,manyadventurousyachts- yachtsman intheentireCaribbean.Drivenbyacombinationofpetty have apparentlybecomeamongthesafestareasforcruising working withtheUSCoastGuardtostopdrugsmuggling.Thesecoasts there wasalmostimpossible.Now,however,bothgovernmentsare were adangerousareaforyachtandtoobtaininsurancecruise iting yachts,ineffectacoupleofyearsago,hasreportedlyended. hotels andmarinasthathavebeenestablished.Theshakedownofvis- arrived intheDominicanRepublic,asillustratedbynumberofnew shore passageanddownplayingthe“ThornlessPath”inpast. reasons forurgingheadingsouthfromtheUSEastCoastviaanoff- Old Fart),“theCaribbean”istheEasternCaribbean.Italsoexplainsmy 1995, whenwefeltthingsbegantogodownhill. to extensivelycruisethisarea.Weenjoyedfantasticcruisingthereuntil the areatocruisingyachtsman. ABC Islands, 1980 (revisedin1989) grubstake metodoextensivecruisingandexploring.Thisledmy starting theElMorrodevelopmentwestofPuertoLaCruz,offeredto cruising alongthecoastandoffshoreislands.Dr.Camejo,whowasjust over andpersuadedmetosailVenezuelaenjoythewonderful me theproblemwithVenezuelanCoastGuardfiringatyachtswas came fromVenezuelatocruisetheEasternCaribbean.Theyassured to explore.Inthemiddle’60sDr.DanielCamejoandRollyEdmunds island chainbecamemoredeveloped, small-boat racingfleet. Trinidad…. TheoldBritishestablishmentinBarbadoshadanactive three inSt.Croix,oneTortola,eightortenAntigua,acouple Eastern Caribbeanthen.Therewereabout15basedinSt.Thomas, then charteringandexploring.Therewereveryfewyachtsintheentire pletely! was noproblemintheFrenchislands—theyignoredyachtscom- run byofficialsfromMetropolitanFrance.CustomsandImmigration served onotherislandsformanyyears.)TheFrenchwerewell police onanyislandwaslocal,andusuallyinthetopranks,having officers werenotassignedtotheirnativeisland.Asmallpercentageof a policeforcetrainedatthePoliceAcademyinBarbados.(Oncetrained, Taking the“ThornlessPathtoWindward”Dominican Until afewyearsago,theCaribbeancoastsofColombiaandPanama But timeshavechanged.Politicalstabilityhasapparentlyfinally I hopethisletterhasexplainedwhy,toWPOF(WellPreserved As yearswentby,boatsflockedtotheEasternCaribbean. I boughttheengineless up yourfreemonthlycopyofthe in Trinidad&Tobago. (this month’sadvertisersin Irena Tours/MembersOnly IMS YachtServices Kappa DrugsGlenco Hi-Lo ChaguaramasorGlenco Goodwood Marine Gittens Engines Fortress Woodworking Electropics Echo Marine Dynamite Marine Dockyard Electrics Customs &ImmigrationOffices CrewsInn Marina Coral CoveMarina Chute D’eauMarine Caribbean MarineElectrical Budget Marine Boaters Shop Bay IslandYachts CrownPoint,Tobago Bago’s BeachBar, Barrow Sails&Canvas Alpha Canvas Glandore, Ireland Don Street Ahoy, Compass plus theImrayIolairechartsofarea,whichopened ACompleteSailorsGuidetoTheIsthmusofPanama PICK UP! Readers!WheninChaguaramasTrinidadorTobago,pick Guide toVenezuela,theOffshoreIslands,and Iolaire bold inFebruary1957andstartedcruising, Zanzibar Restaurant YSATT TTYC TTSA The Lure,SweetwaterMarina Sure Power Superb Sail&Canvas Soca Sails Ships Carpenter/InternetCafé San FernandoYachtClub TTPost/SGI Distributors Sails Restaurant Rick’s DiveShop Power Boats Peake YachtServices Peake TradingChandlery Nau-T-Kol Mariner’s Office Marine Warehouse Marc OneMarineSupplies Majestic Coatings LP Marine Joe’s Pizza ), courtesyofourCompassAgent The PanamaGuide Caribbean Compass Iolaire Iolaire wasthefirstforeignyacht andIlookedfornewareas byNancyand atanyoftheselocations by AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 E L A S

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Recently a couple of instances when sional rigger. After looking at the pieces and measuring same, we were given a verbal price of $86. That sounded fair, simple, others very complex. We learned simple, others very complex. the work we as we sailed. Sometimes accomplished was fun, other times complete drudgery, but at least it was ours, and there was no one else to blame when things didn’t work out quite the way we planned. As the old tried and true statement goes, “Cruising is just working on your boat in exotic places.” And, we did, all the way from the Erie Canal to Venezuela and many island nations in between. we paid a professional (off the boat), caused us to think about the many things we have had to do over the past few years. The most recent time we hired a professional was to replace a couple of pieces of damaged or broken lifeline. The gate, which is used fre- quently, had broken a wire so the resulting hook became both a hazard to the hands as well as one of those safety features that require immediate action. The section from the gate to the stern rail was also looking rather poorly, so the two pieces were taken to a profes-

by Roland O’Brien WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S do it yourself! do The satisfaction of knowing how to do many more things than when we started makes it all worthwhile. Again, The satisfaction of knowing how to do many more things than when we started makes it all worthwhile. Again, A recent challenge presented itself when we shut down the engine after a 100-mile journey (the wind stopped A recent challenge presented itself when we shut down the engine after a 100-mile journey (the wind stopped Our engine exhaust pipe, which runs from the manifold to the muffler, rusted through. We stopped in Vieux Our engine exhaust pipe, which runs from the manifold to the muffler, rusted through. We stopped in Vieux Cruisers should not be afraid to tackle repair jobs on their own. For example, when our watermaker stopped Cruisers should not be afraid to tackle repair jobs on their own. For example, when our watermaker stopped Another, earlier, sail repair request was met with less than enthusiasm. When we asked about having a leech- A previous use of a sail shop professional was similar, except that the workmanship was fine. We arrived at the A previous use of a sail shop professional was similar, In retrospect what we should have done was purchase four new end fittings and the less than ten feet of cable In retrospect what we should have done was purchase Now, after nearly five years in the Caribbean, we continue to maintain the boat ourselves, only purchasing nec- in the Caribbean, we continue to maintain the boat Now, after nearly five years Several years ago, my wife, Kathleen, and I bought a 41-foot Coronado freshwater boat and started purchasing Kathleen, and I bought a 41-foot Coronado freshwater Several years ago, my wife, What is a boy from southern Vermont, where there isn’t a lake large enough to sail, doing sailing the Caribbean? Vermont, where there isn’t a lake large enough to sail, What is a boy from southern we feel that cruisers should be able to repair most, if not all, items on their boat. Of course for some, certain certain we feel that cruisers should be able to repair most, if not all, items on their boat. Of course for some, home things must be left to the professionals, and items occasionally need replacement. It’s not as easy as back many where you could just take your auto to your favorite mechanic and just say, “Please fix it.” Out on the water proud times there is no mechanic or marina just down the street. So, give it a try yourself, you might just be very of the results. halfway so we motor-sailed the remainder of the trip). We noticed that the bilge pump was still running but with halfway so we motor-sailed the remainder of the trip). We noticed that the bilge pump was still running but check no resultant drop in bilge level. Upon disassembly of the pump we found that a pop rivet that holds a rubber the valve against a stainless-steel grate had failed. The repair, simple enough: grind a little bit and push out again? original rivet remains, then reinstall a new rivet. The pump is working fine now. Will the problem happen Yes, owing to not having a stainless steel pop rivet available. Aluminum and steel combined, or even all aluminum, won’t last long in that environment. Occasionally, one has to improvise. Logically, we should obtain a few stainless steel pop rivets and make a more permanent fix. Fort, on the extreme south end of Saint Lucia. Vieux Fort’s claim to fame is that the island’s international airport Fort, on the extreme south end of Saint Lucia. Vieux Fort’s claim to fame is that the island’s international major is located there. Incidentally, it’s an excellent airport. The town appears quite impoverished and is in need of need- renovations, to put it politely. However, we were able to locate all the steel pipe-fittings and flexible pipe we meet ed, and even get the assembly welded. The search for the items and the welder was interesting and we got to of some new local people who turned out to be very responsive. The “forced marches” we have taken in search parts can be part of the fun and provide great memories. functioning we took the pump apart and located the problem. The manufacturer provides manuals, which can be functioning we took the pump apart and located the problem. The manufacturer provides manuals, which with downloaded from the Internet free of charge. All necessary troubleshooting suggestions were provided along pictures and spare parts break-outs. Another item that required investigation was an over-temperature condition (salt with our inverter. Upon disassembly it was found that the solder joints for the small cooling fans had failed air corrosion strikes again!), and it was only necessary to clean, prepare, and re-solder the joints. Look, Ma — all assembled and ready to weld! And we did it ourselves Look, Ma — all assembled and ready to weld! And we line added to our mainsail, the man wouldn’t look us in the eye, would not provide an estimate of cost or number closing of days we might expect for completion. And, to top it off, the operator of the sail loft said, “Besides, I’m It just early for Christmas.” Total non-responsiveness. Sounds like general complaining on our part? Not really. can reinforces the reason we brought along our old Pfaff 130 sewing machine which does zig-zag stitching and handle most sail repairs. We cut some spare sail material in six-inch widths, installed the leech line and stitched the cover over the entire leech. Cost? About six hours of our time. time requested to pick up a sail that had needed some minor stitching. When told the sail was not ready, we time requested to pick up a sail that had needed some our sail. We were told to come back in 45 minutes, which noticed the young man just about to start working on a price for labor that amounted to one-and-a-half hours we did. However, when the invoice was prepared it had repair accomplished locally instead of doing it ourselves (their labor rate is known). Sometimes we will have a small but one wonders about their pricing schemes. to help keep the local service companies in business, at one of the chandleries (or from the rigger) and borrow a Nicropress unit from another boater. Total cost, less at one of the chandleries (or from the rigger) and borrow rear lifelines and were able (barely) to use the lon- than $60. Fortunately, we were able to swap port to starboard ger lifeline on the other side. essary equipment for repairs and doing the installation without outside help. Some repairs we’ve had to do were and doing the installation without outside help. Some essary equipment for repairs up the new replacements. The price on the invoice was so we left the parts and came back the next day to pick to add labor costs. And, to make matters worse, when back $125. Seems the man quoting the job had neglected long. at the boat, the new stern lifeline was two inches too and installing the necessary gear for spending some years in the Caribbean. We bought nearly all the gear we gear for spending some years in the Caribbean. We and installing the necessary on living on retirement income it ourselves, as we had a low budget and planned needed on eBay, then installed mostly purchases — everything more than 600 transactions on eBay: some sales, but only. At one point we had single-sideband radio gear valves, chart-plotters, a wind generator, radar, autohelm, from fishing gear to new ball and a power windlass. Fair question. Canoes and kayaks were the largest vessels able to navigate the West River and the small ponds in kayaks were the largest vessels able to navigate the West Fair question. Canoes and the water. Now I’m making night Bullhead fishing was the only nighttime activity on the area where I grew up. ships. passages and dodging cruise AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 4 97CY 30’ 2002 60’ 1982 44’ 1977 CSY 40’ 2001 34’ 1983 48’ 1999 34’ 1989 32’ 2003 Call, faxorvisitourwebsitefor acompletelistofboatsforsale Excellent condition$99,000 ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES CG Cert.42passengers 42’ 1971GrandBanks atclKc Nautical Ktch Jeanneau Hunter SaRy 5H ecusr 95,000.00 DynaCraftMYCruiserwith,435HP,2Strms, A/C,LowHrs. 55,000.00 SeaRayExpressTwinDiesels,465 hrs. Genset,A/C SeaRay350HPMercruisers Hydrocat 300X Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, SnOysy tm,getcniin 119,500.00 SunOdyssey,3strms,greatcondition www.stthomasyachts.com ttros ra hre esl 219,000.00 32,000.00 115,000.00 4 staterooms,greatchartervessel Excellent cruiser,greatcondition Freshwater boat,wellequipped St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Exp. CCObv.Twr,DieselYmrs230HP,exc.cond. Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail Great Condition$124,900 Twin helms, 3 staterooms 3 helms, Twin 46’ 2000Jeanneau45.2 69,000.00 299,500.00 toStoreBay,Tobago 28 24 21 www.sanjuaninternational.com 16 –22 9 –10 7 tel(599)544-2075,fax544-2091,[email protected],www.smyc.com 2 -8 2 (758)452-8350,[email protected], 1 www.stluciayachtclub.com EmancipationDaycelebratedinsomecountriesonthe2nd Jamaica,St.Lucia,Vincent&theGrenadines,andTrinidadTobago 1 1 1 AUGUST 25 23 19 http://sailbarbados.com 12 (RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected], www.rbviyc.net 10 6 4 –5 SEPTEMBER EmancipationDayRegatta,St.Lucia.LuciaYachtClub(SLYC), EmancipationDay.Publicholiday LaborDay.Publicholiday If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, ra ae(oebas rmCaurms rndd GreatRace(powerboats)fromChaguaramas,Trinidad FULL MOON abdsNtoa igyCaposis a n. BarbadosNationalDinghyChampionships,DayTwo FULL BarbadosNationalDinghyChampionships,DayOne. 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in Barbados,Grenada,Guyana, AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 grenada • jewelry • jewelry just steps from the carenage Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 [email protected] [email protected] for your boat, home + friends Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] continued on next page t n e R t m

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AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 ,

Readers FREE Compass So many cruisers lament how crowded “the islands” Regards, Ruth and John Martin S/Y Moon Dog Dear We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines proverbial “thousands of words”. With a little effort to proverbial “thousands of words”. With a little effort to translate essential information, the guide can be very useful even if French is not your first language. have become, but an entire coastline awaits them on the east side of Martinique! address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. DOLLY’S ANSWER: A marine plant Continued from page 39 Why are cruisers so intimidated by this area? It is We were delighted to meet Jerome Nouel quite unex- — …Readers’ Forum true that the area requires careful navigation due to the numerous reefs, and that the reef visibility is highly variable and can be surprisingly difficult depending on slight changes in sky conditions. However, a yacht can cruise the area and avoid the trickiest anchorages entirely, or gradually ease into them when weather, confidence and prudence permit. Some anchorages are only accessible to yachts drawing less than two metres, but these are the minority. Other aspects that could be considered negatives are a lack of marina facilities (there are a few marinas that cater mainly to small power boats); obtaining fuel and water is difficult (if not impossible); and there are very few restaurants or bars. pectedly during our visit. Jerome has been cruising this area since coming to Martinique almost 40 years ago. He confirmed that few yachts venture to the east side, and was as perplexed as we were over it. We sensed his real disappointment that more cruisers are not enjoying this coast that he clearly loves so dearly. Nouel’s latest 2009 edition is in French; an English version of earlier editions may still be available in Martinique chandleries. The guide is comprehensive and very well organized; offers concise, objective advice (no ads and no restaurant reviews); the sketch charts are self-explanatory and beautifully done; aeri- al photos of all anchorages are provided and speak the n www.caribbeancompass.com a r

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aboard aboard CASIMIR HOFFMANN CASIMIR AUGUST 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 www.cnmarinas.com * up to 32 $330 up to 65 $1150 up to 40up to 50up to 60 $520 $715 $930 up to 75 up to 80 up to 100 $1350 $1760 $2265 LOA in feet rate Monthly LOA in feet Monthly rate Prices valid for bookings of one month or longer, between 1 May and 31 October 2010. Prices valid for bookings of one month or longer, or email [email protected] Marinas, and our friendly and knowledgeable staff are on hand Marina, please contact Danny Donelan on +1 (473) 415 0837 Marina, please contact Danny Donelan on +1 (473) Port and operated by Camper & Nicholsons Louis Marina is owned For more information about securing a summer berth at Port Louis SPECIAL SUMMER RATES – MAY to OCTOBER – MAY SPECIAL SUMMER RATES * 24 hours a day to welcome you. WEST INDIES N and therefore outside the o adjacent to the island’s capital – and on the doorstep of the unspoilt adjacent to the island’s enjoy all the convenience and luxury even more affordable. You’ll either on-site chandleries and haul-out facilities are also available, or close by. and London. In addition to its welcoming atmosphere and stunning natural full-service marinas in the Caribbean. With its spectacular location beauty, Grenada is close to 12 beauty, the marina has to offer, including exemplary dockside facilities, the marina has to offer, hurricane belt, which means yachts can remain safely afloat also benefits from its own The island throughout the summer. Port known as one of the best appointed, Louis Marina is justifiably with our new summer rates, a berth at Port Louis Marina is Now, international airport, with direct flights to Miami, New York international airport, flights to Miami, New York with direct Grenadines – it’s the perfect base for cruising, all year round. Grenadines – it’s ITALY | MALTA | TURKEY | | MALTA ITALY www.cnportlouismarina.com Port – Marina, Grenada Louis welcoming, and affordable beautiful, 24-hour security, marina-wide wi-fi and more. Technical services, more. Technical marina-wide wi-fi and 24-hour security,

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