Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels St. Petersburg

April - May 2014

Stepping out Enjoy the good weather by exploring Smolny

Noble atmosphere History and style. Dining at the Palkin

inyourpocket.com N°94 Contents

Where to eat 21 ESSENTIAL Rubinshteina Street 36 CIT Y GUIDES Restaurants in Hotels 38

Nightlife 42 Foreword 4 What to see 46 In the News 5 The Essentials 46 Peterhof 50 Arrival & Getting Around 6 Where to stay 52 City Basics 8 Interview with consierge 54

Language 9 Shopping 56

Culture & Events 10 Expat & Lifestyle 58 Concerts, festivals and exhibitions 10 The Expat Experience 59 Sport news 15 Business 60 Features 16 Smolny District 16 Maps & Index Palkin. Historic dining 19 Metro map 61 Nevsky prospect 40 City map 62 Street register 64

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgYourPocket Moscow 65

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 3 Foreword In the News Spring has sprung and St. Petersburg is getting a new look! After months of long, dark nights it’s lovely to feel some sun Economic Forum Bolshoi Drama Theatre on your skin and enjoy warm days that are getting longer The St. Petersburg International Economic Forum will be and longer. It is a real pleasure going into the centre after held on 22-14 May this year. The forum is the main an- Tovstonogov Bolshoi Drama Theater on the Fontanka work, walking along the crowded Nevsky while it’s still light nual international economic and business forum convened Embankment will be reopened on May 27. The thea- St. Petersburg In YourESSENTIAL Pocket and seeing people enjoying late night dinners and drinks in Russia. It attracts about 4,000 people from around the tre was closed in 2011 for major reconstruction work. founded and publishedCI TbyY GUIDES on newly opened terraces. The city is waking up and it OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. world and has seen the participation of high ranking gov- The original building was constructed in 1876-77 and becomes so lively. I just love this time! But not only St. Pe- Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A, ernment officials and leading businesses. Unless you have has been the home of the Bolshoi Drama Theatre since tersburg is changing. If you are familiar with In Your Pocket tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, [email protected], russia.inyourpocket.com a keen interest in business and want to participate in the fo- 1919. The programme for the theatre this year prom- guides you must have noticed that we just had a complete rum, it is a good time to avoid St. Petersburg, as the forum is ises to be particularly full with the theatre celebrating makeover using a brand new design. The guide is fresh and Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, [email protected] known for creating traffic congestion, detours, and closing its 95th anniversary. The theatre offers a range of clas- simple making it even nicer and easier to use. It’s beautiful! General director Tanya Skvortsova, [email protected] off tourist attractions for official visits. The forum also places sic plays including those on classic works by Russian I hope you like it as much as our team does! Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, [email protected] Editor&PR Ksenia Elzes, [email protected] significant demand on hotels throughout the city leading authors including Dostoevsky, Pushkin, Chekhov and The famous White Nights have no official beginning date Editor Peter Campbell to extremely high prices. So unless you want to participate Odoevsky as well as some of the finest playwrights but start in early May. And the opening of the bridges Researcher Wabke Waaijer, [email protected] in the forum, plan your visit to St. Petersburg around the from world theatre. www.bdt.spb.ru which is a classic feature of the White Nights usually starts Design Malvina Markina, [email protected] forum! www.forumspb.com in April. This is something that makes our city very unique. Sales Managers Ilya Timshin, [email protected] And the last but not least - spring brings with it plenty of Peter Smirnov, [email protected] holidays. In April we have Cosmonauts’ Day (April 12) and Customer Service Manager Night of Museums Russian Orthodox Easter (April 20). In May Russians will Tanya Kharitonova, [email protected] To celebrate International Museum Day, St. Petersburg’s be getting time off work to mark Spring and Labour Day Copyright notice museum offer a range of excursions and programmes avail- (May 1) and Victory Day (May 9, the day when Russians Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All able at night on March 17/18. The don’t promise mummies celebrate the end of World War II). Spring is a wonderful rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any leaving their sarcophagi or dinosaurs chasing you down time to enjoy St. Petersburg. form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written the corridors but they do offer concerts, special excursions, As always, we have chosen the very best St. Petersburg can permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. master classes and historical reconstructions (so you might offer. Put the guide in your pocket, put on your sunglasses just meet Catherine the Great or Lenin). This year the theme and have fun! Editor’s note of the night will be “light and colour”. Over 2000 museums Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from in 42 European countries will be participating in the night paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and sug- gestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the of the museum with about 100 cultural establishments in Cover story information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility St. Petersburg participating, so keep an eye on your favour- for changes and errors. ite museums and see what wonders will befall on the Night Indigo Hotel Opening of the Museums. www.artnight.ru This spring Hotel Indigo is opening its first Eastern Euro- The lovely, historic interior of the Palkin. The historic res- © OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket taurant has seen and experienced it all. Find out about © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl pean boutique hotel in St. Petersburg. The Hotel Indigo St. the restaurant which first appeared in 1785 in our fea- Published 6 times per year with supplements, Petersburg – Tchaikovskogo, is located in a newly restored o ture story (page 19). N 94, 01.04.2014, 90,000 copies. 19th century building at Chaikovskogo 17 – named after For children aged 16 years and over. the famous Russian compose Petr Ilich Tchaikovsky. The hotel boasts a stunning interior and a wide range of ser- vices including some which are not offered elsewhere in St. About IYP Petersburg. The hotel includes 119 rooms, conference halls and a stylish restaurant for fine dinning. The seven story ho- It’s now 22 years since we published the first ESTONIA tel also includes bars, a fitness studio, a swimming pool and In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania LATVIA RUSSIA saunas. The hotel is well located for taking full advantage of - in which time we have grown to become NORTHERN LITHUANIA the city’s cultural offerings being within comfortable walk- IRELAND the largest publisher of locally produced IRELAND BELARUS ing distance of several of the city’s largest museums, shop- NETHERLANDS city guides in Europe. We now cover more POLAND ping centres, theatres and cinemas. www.ihg.com GERMANY UKRAINE than 100 cities across the continent (with BELGIUM CZECH Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be REPUBLIC pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, AUSTRIA HUNGARY SWITZERLAND ROMANIA GEORGIA well-written and downright indispensable SLOVENIACROATIA Санкт-Петербург ITALY In Your Pocket guides published each year is o BOSNIA SERBIA В Твоем Кармане Заказ N 59-10 BULGARIA approaching five million. We will be expand- Учредитель и издатель: Свидетельство о регистрации MONTENEGRO ООО «Красная Шапка» средства массовой информации FYR MACEDONIA ing even further this year, with the publica- ALBANIA Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 GREECE tion of a guide to Johannesburg: our first Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. выдано Северо-Западным outside of Europe. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 региональным управлением факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 комитета РФ по печати. Цена To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Главный редактор: Бонни ван свободная. SOUTH дер Велде Тираж 90 000 экз. No93. AFRICA Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook. Отпечатано в ООО “МДМ- 01.02.2014 com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter Печать”, Для детей старше 16 лет. 188640, Л.О., г. Вcеволожск, (twitter.com/inyourpocket). Всеволожский пр., 114

4 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 5 Arriving & Getting Around Arriving & Getting Around

St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro sys- The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone of Departing St. Petersburg by train: If you’d just like to get tem is amazing - attractive and efficient, it is the fastest way jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and there is out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply to get across town or into the central city. If you find Cyrillic a chance you might get pulled off. Don’t overpay the traf- connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Elec- a bit of a squiggle, you’ll love the metro as it has translitera- fic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km too fast trichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from tions for all the stations. To navigate your way from the met- is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit ro station to your destination you have a choice of buses, and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light will cost 700Rbl Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky. minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and trams - these are and not wearing a seatbelt will cost 500Rbl. Most of the There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream, less user friendly but once you know the routes and when policemen do not speak English, which might make things band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wander- to get off, they make getting around the city a breeze. If you difficult, or perhaps very easy. In towns the speed limit is ing the aisle with just what you need. want to hop into something a little more comfortable, you around 60 km/h, but road conditions often force you to can always take a taxi. drive more carefully and thus more slowly. Baltisky station QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel. Arriving by plane (+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru. Arriving in town St. Petersburg has three airport terminals, side-by-side, just Finlyandsky station Arriving by bus south of the city. International and domestic flights arrive at QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46, St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you Pulkovo-1 and Pulkovo-2. A newly constructed terminal, www.ozd.rzd.ru. know where you are going before you leave. New Terminal-1, receives only domestic flights. Don’t for- Ladozhsky station The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of get to check a terminal of your flight on www.pulkovoair- QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53 the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is port.ru or by tel. (+7) 812 337 38 22. 10, www.ozd.rzd.ru. a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town All airports have restaurants and bars, money exchanges Moskovsky station and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr. (obmen valyuty) and ATMs (bankomaty) - although they QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457 Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya may not always be functioning. It’s always a good idea 44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru. metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into to have some cash in your pocket when you arrive. If you Vitebsky station the metro system. To find your way into the city centre have time to kill before being collected, there is a 24-hour QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812 make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies café where you can spend a small fortune on lattes and hot 457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru. have stops at the city’s main hotels. The proliferation of bus chocolates. companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops. take Bus №39 (from Pulkovo-1 and New Terminal-1) or Public transport The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest Bus №13 (form Pulkovo-2) to Moskovskaya Metro Station Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of metro station or take a taxi. (seven stops - it will take 15-25 minutes depending on transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the met- traffic) and then take the metro into town (another seven ro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners Arriving by car stops in the metro - about 15-20 minutes). Once you are from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolley- above the driver’s cabin will list the next destination. Many Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remem- in the metro system you can get to most parts of town bus) and up to 35Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current ber the following: your National and International Driver’s quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro system of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight. and following stop. Routes are indicated on window plac- licence, registration and insurance documents for the car if you need to find a particular station. Similarly you can Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and ards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley. and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At take a minibus (mashrutka) to Moskovskaya, but bear in there is also the possibility of getting an ‘independent’ The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is mind, that if you have a large bag it will be much easier driver. route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled in a bus. If you have a lot of luggage, it is probably worth St. Petersburg’s metro is one of the deepest in the world reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days, over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is taking a taxi. and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those they go just about everywhere within the city and out to not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by ДПС or ГИБДД or on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which ГАИ) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher, Arriving by train of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. It’s also disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train fast and efficient and, during peak time, you won’t need departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h. stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St. from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, you’ll need to buy a to- (up to 35Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you. for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank. Petersburg’s underground system and find your way to the ken (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ‘ostanovite pozha- metro station nearest your destination. the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro luista,’ and the driver will come to a screeching halt. Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change sta- the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland tions. There are underground passageways linking adjacent arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny TaxiS station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations. announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers can be confusing, so it’s best to count your stops. In rush English-speaking operators but in many big companies there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and it’s at this time you you can book a taxi online: on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The met- and queue-cutting. Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru ro system will be closed for the night and during summer Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru the bridges will be open - which depending on where your the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg. accommodation is might mean substantial delays. the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leather- nyt.ru 6 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 7 City Basics Language

Be on guard! useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking Basic frases loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets No/Yes Net/da Нет/Да if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, Hello Zdrastvuite Здравствуйте or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night. Goodbye Dasvidaniya До свидания 02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and Thank you Spasibo Спасибо don’t speak Russian it may be better to call the Eng- lish language tourist helpine (+7) 812 300 33 33. Sorry/excuse me Izvinite Извините Please Pazhalusta Пожалуйста The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can pocket dictionary help you file a police report. Your consulate can help Dacha (дача) is a word that you will encounter whether you I don't understand Ya ne panimayu Я не понимаю you if your passport has been stolen. The police here are talking to newly made friends about their plans for the I don't speak Ya ne gavaryu Я не говорю generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy weekend or summer holidays or reading the greats of Rus- Russian pa-russky по-русски your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry sian literature, a dacha is always bound to crop up. Normally Do you speak Vy gavaritye Вы говорите a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check translated as “summer home/cottage” the first dacha (pl. English? pa-anglisky? по-английски? Russians all the time too) then show them the photo- dachi) appeared in the 18th century under Peter the Great copy rather than the original. who granted land around St. Petersburg. The word is derived Help! Pomogitye! Помогите! from 18th century Russian dati or дати meaning “to give”, I need some Mne nuzhna Мне нужна now дать (dat’), and would have represented something help pomoshch помошь similar to a summer mansion. During Soviet times dachas I don't want Ya ne khachu Я не хочу Mobile Phones (more correctly dachi) were given to city residents to provide Mnye (ne) Мне (не) You can use your mobile phone if your provider has an inter- them with land plots for growing vegetables and producing I (don't) like it national roaming agreement with any of the Russian mobile food. They play a significant part in Russians’ lives and often nravitsa нравится GSM phone providers in St. Petersburg. Normally, if you are they include a banya. It is common for Russians to spend the May I? Mozhno? Можно? abroad you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and weekend at the dacha, breathing the fresh air and spending Do you have...? U vas est…? У вас есть...? outgoing calls. If you call to another Russian mobile phone, for some quality time with friends and family. I don't know Ya ne znayu Я не знаю a direct-dial number dial seven digits and for a federal number dial 8 and then the 10-digit number. If you call from your mo- numbers How much is it? Skolko stoit? Сколько стоит? Registration bile to a fixed line just dial the seven-digits. It may be easiest to It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Это дорого! buy a local SIM card for use in your own phone. To purchase, 1 adin 11 adinatsat 30 tritsat Bolshoy/ Большой/ Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of you need to show your passport, visa and registration. Large/small 2 dva 12 dvinatsat 40 sorok malenky маленкий your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holi- Khorosho/ Хорошо/ days). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 3 tri 13 trinatsat 50 pyatdesyat Good/bad hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. Alcohol 4 chetyre 14 chetyrnatsat 60 shesdesyat plokho плохо If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. 5 pyat 15 pyatnatsat 70 semdesyat It hurts! Bolno! Больно! problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to miss- The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what Today Sevodnya Сегодня ing your flight while officials interrogate you. is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scien- 6 shest 16 shesnatsat 80 vosemdesyat Tomorrow Zaftra Завтра tist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. 7 sem 17 semnatsat 90 devyanosta Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to 8 vosem 18 vosemnatsat 100 sto Could you write Zapishite Запишите, Money choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight it down? pazhalusta пожалуйста 9 devyat 19 devyatnatsat 500 pyatsot The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the Toilets Tualet Туалет 10 desyat 20 dvatsat 1000 tysicha in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye Ostanavite Остановите, Stop here please coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party pazhalusta пожалуйста rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00. alphabet When? At what Kogda? Vo Когда? Во banks and large hotels. time? skolko? сколько? А A З Z П P Ч CH Climate What time is it? Katory chas? Который час? Foreigner Prices Б B И I Р R Ш SH Who? Kto? Кто? In April and May St. Petersburg really starts to take on В V Й Y С S Щ SHCH The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of a new look and pace of life as the snow melts and the How do you say Kak skazat eto Как сказать Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and mu- trees regain their leaves again. Typically things don’t Г G К K Т T Ы Y that in Russian? pa-russky? это по-русски? seums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more start to really warm up until the end of April though so it Д D Л L У U Э E No problem Bez problem Без проблем than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that is advisable to have a light coat or sweater with you and Е E М M Ф F Ю YU Of course Koneshno Конечно Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the good waterproof shoes to deal with the puddles caused Ё YO Н N Х KH Я YA Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! С праздником! ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says by melting snow. May can be a delight or it can also be you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local chilly, so be prepared for gloomy weather as well as the Ж ZH О O Ц TS Ъ, Ь no sound Password Parol Пароль price. odd afternoon of glorious sunshine. 8 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 9 Culture & Events Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After a day‘s hoof- ing it through the finest museums and historical locations, Opera & Ballet you can watch a play, ballet, opera or circus performance any and every night you choose. 03.04 Thursday - 13.04 Sunday 14th International Mariinsky Ballet Festival theatres The festival promises to bring together some of Alexandrinsky Theatre your favourite performances by international ballet QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 troupes. The festival includes classical pieces such 15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru. as Swan Lake, Gazelle, La Bayadère. The Royal Danish Imperial Hermitage Theatre Ballet Company also offers an exhilarating perfor- QC-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. mance of Napoli, and those who like to add pirates to (+7) 812 966 37 76, www.balet-spb.ru. ballet are certain to enjoy Le Corsaire. However, tickets Mariinsky Theatre are going fast, the premiere of Diana Vishneva: On the QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 Edge have already sold out, so don’t miss the boat for 41 41, www.mariinsky.ru. this festival of ballet.Q Mariinsky Theatre (MT) C-3, Mikhailovsky Theatre Teatralnaya pl. 1; Mariinsky II (MT-2) C-3, Ul. Deka- QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43 bristov 34, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 41 41, 19, www.mikhailovsky.ru. Ticket office: daily 11:00 - www.mariinsky.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 6,000Rbl. 19:00, break 15:00 - 16:00. April Time Event Venue Saint Petersburg Opera QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 03, 04 19:30 Sylvia MT 67 69, www.spbopera.ru. Infra. Concerto DSCH. 05 19:30 MT-2 State Theatre of Musical Comedy Sacre QD-3, Italyanskaya ul. 13, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 06, 08 19:00 Swan Lake MT-2 570 53 16, www.spbmuzcomedy.com. Diana Vishneva: On the 07 19:30 MT Edge concert halls and clubs 09 19:00 La Bayadère MT Club Cosmonavt 10,11 19:30 Det Kongelige Teater MT-2 QD-4, Ul. Bronnitskaya 24, MTekhnologichesky Insti- tut, tel. (+7) 812 922 13 00, www.cosmonavt.su. 11 19:00 Gisele MT Grand Philharmonic Hall 12 19:30 Le Corsaire MT QD-2, Ul. Mikhailovskaya 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 13 20:00 Divertissement MT-2 710 42 57, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Jazz Philharmonic Hall QС-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 April events 764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru. 02.04 Wednesday JFC Jazz Club 20:00 The Baseballs QB-2, Ul. Shpalernaya 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. The group was started in (+7) 812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru. Open 19:00 - 23:00. 2007 and performs rock ‘n’ Ledovy Dvorets roll arrangements of con- QPr. Pyatiletok 1 (opposite the metro), MPr. Bolshe- temporary pop songs, cre- vikov, tel. (+7) 812 718 66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru. ating a unique sound and Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ) style. They became popular QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275 with 50s and 60s style rock 13 00, www.bkz.ru. cover versions of modern Small Philharmonic Hall hits such as Umbrella by QD-3, Nevsky pr. 30, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 83 Rihanna, Crazy in Love by 33, www.philharmonia.spb.ru. Beyoncé, Hot n Cold by Katy Sport Concert Complex (SKK) Perry and Call Me Maybe by QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17 Carly Rae Jepsen. The Ger- 10, www.spbckk.ru. man group’s first album,Strike , was released in 2009 and Yubileiny Sports Palace led all the European charts. On the heels of this success, QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) the band released a second album several months later 812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru. Strings ‘n’ Stripes, which was met with similar popularity. QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekh- You can buy tickets for many events at nologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www. www.kassir.ru and www.bileter.ru thebaseballs.com. Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 11 Culture & Events Culture & Events 04.04 Friday 18.04 Friday aurora fashion week 23:00 Trancemission 19:00 Lady in Jazz Dance open Trancemission describes Lady in Jazz is a unique 07.04 Monday - 13.04 Sunday itself as a ‘festival of trance’ jazz festival which is well The AURORA FASHION WEEK Russia is promising to be and will be featuring Ferry known among jazz lov- bigger than ever with a range of new attractions for Corsten as the headline ers. The participants are the city’s fashionistas. The fashion week will include all act. The festival has been all charming ladies with day White Night Shopping (April 5), work shops, mas- held for more than a de- enchanting voices. The fes- ter classes and a fashion and beauty festival AURORA cade and has seen per- tival has become known MARKET as well as a celebration to fine dining in St. Pe- formances by some of the for its improvisations and tersburg’s restaurants with the AURORA PLATE festival. biggest names in the in- continuation of the spirit The fashion week will be held in the classical interiors dustry including Armin van of jazz. This year’s perform- of the Rafael and Titian halls at the Russian Academy of Buuren, Paul van Dyk, Dash ers include: Jamala, Via Ta- Fine Arts Museum and will have 13 shows from some Berlin, Above & Beyond, tiana, Sasha Magerova and of Russia’s and St. Petersburg’s leading designers as Nadia Ali. In recent years the tone of the atmosphere has Band, and Cats Park. The 23.04 Wednesday - 28.04 monday well as avant-garde foreign brands that have already changed reflecting modern trends in trance music with combination of artists should encapsulate the trends of 13th International Dance Open Ballet become an accepted part of the Russian fashion scene. a slower beat and a harder sound. Ferry Corsten himself jazz from soul, world music, rhythm and blues to classics Festival The fashion week will be concluded with the AURORA was one of the pioneers of this ‘harder’ trance and dur- from the 1930s to 1960s. There should be something for all The festival will be showcasing international artists with MARKET, where you can buy exclusive accessories, ing his career has worked with musicians and groups such jazz lovers in this eclectic line up.QE-1, Aurora Concert a range of contemporary performances and a large num- cosmetics and perfumes and it will of course include as Duran Duran, U2, Аrmin van Buuren and Tiesto.QD-1, Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 ber of premier performances with exciting choreography. limited collections only for its guests. You can buy tick- Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 2,000Rbl. Perhaps one of the most interesting is Recur, which ex- ets online at www.auroramarket.ru. 309 99 22, www.radiorecord.ru/news/736275/. Tickets plores people’s inner world; and Innervisions which is set QSee all the details about the AURORA FASHION 1,000 - 1,700Rbl. 18.04 Friday to Stevie Wonder’s music. Classical music fans are bound WEEK Russia on the website www.afwrussia.com. 20:00 Surganova and Orchestra to love Magifigue which is a magical opportunity to re- 05.04 Saturday Svetlana Surganova is a musician, poet and composer. For experience the world through the wondering eyes of a 19:00 Aria many years she was the violinist for rock group Nochnye child, performed by the Malandain Ballet Biarritz troupe To celebrate the band’s 25th anniversary of its 1989 album Snaipery (Night snipers) and is now the front lady for her with a neoclassical take on Tchaikovsky’s music. The fes- Playing with Fire, the group will be putting on a special new group Surganova and Orchestra. Surganova is popu- tival will also include one act performances which will performance. The band was first established in 1985 and lar in Russia, with each performance overwhelmed by gifts be seen in Russia for the first time.QE-3, Alexandrinsky is perhaps one of Russia’s first commercial rock success and flowers from her fans. Her orchestra is constantly on Theatre, pl. Ostrovskogo 6. Tel. (+7) 812 719 65 95, stories. Achieving widespread popularity in the final days tour around Russia and maintains its popularity by con- www.danceopen.com. Tickets 400 – 5,500Rbl. of the Soviet Union, the band has been known as Russia’s tinuing to produce fresh music to add to their popular Iron Maiden. The group has produced 10 albums. This repertoire. The concert promises to include a mix of styles performance will include much of the Playing with Fire including rock, Latino, trip-hop and electronica.QD-1, summer is comming album along with some of their classics such as Last Sun- Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 set, Baptism by Fire, and Black Legend.QD-1, Club A2, pr. 309 99 22, www.surganova.su. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.aria.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl. 19.04 Saturday 20:00 Bravo Concerts at Port Artur 12.04 Saturday Bravo is a Russian band with history, for the last 30 years the 20:00 Leningrad group has been performing under the leadership of Evgeny Port Artur restaurant Leningrad’s Sergey Shnu- Khavtran. The group is known for their full houses and their on Zvenigorodskaya ul. rov is known for the push- fans for dancing until they drop. The band released its first 12/17 offers its guests ing the limits and that album in 1983 and have released another 11 albums since, a lot of great concerts. is exactly what the plan as well as several collections. The musical style of the band 01.06 Sunday The best of the spring intends to do on the an- is rock ‘n’ roll with elements of swing and new wave. Anyone 20:00 Linkin Park season are Gabrielle niversary of Yury Gagarin’s curious about the development of rock in Russia will enjoy a For more than 15 years Linkin Park has been one of the Goodman and Band momentous space flight. show by these veterans.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnits- top alternative rock groups in the world. The band has (April 24) from USA Shnurov will be combining kaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 received numerous awards and sold over 50 million re- and Danny Giles (May his own 40th birthday cel- 303 33 33, www.brawo.ru. Tickets 900 - 2,500Rbl. cords. Having released five successful albums including 10)from UK. Don’t forget to book a table in advance! ebration as part of a salute to Russia’s cosmonauts. Lenin- Hybrid Theory, Meteora, Minutes to Midnight, the group is The full schedule you find at www.portartur-spb.ru grad is more than a popular rock band they have become currently working on their sixth album which is due for one of Russia’s social institutions. Their lyrics readily come release later this year. Despite constant tours the group to the mind of any Russian. The social commentary in the still succeeds in producing fresh music. From these per- lyrics raise important questions and the clear lyrics mixing formance veterans you can expect a good show.QС-2, For all the latest concert, event and irony with a little black humour make the band a timeless Petrovsky stadium, Malaya arena, ul. Petrovsky os- exhibition news follow us on facebook at reflection of Russian society.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov trov 2, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 921 303 33 33, www. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 75 75, www.sos- linkinpark.com. Tickets 3,000 - 6,000Rbl. imc.ru. Tickets 1,800 – 8,000Rbl. 12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 13 Culture & Events Culture & Events 23.04 Wednesday 15.05 Thursday 07.02 Friday - 31.12 Wednesday 20:00 Yolka 20:00 Justin Timberlake More than sport! Sport Yolka released her debut album in 2005 and has released Timberlake will be per- This exhibition is dedicated a total of four albums - a fifth is due out later this year. forming in St. Petersburg to the Sochi Winter Olympic Local heroes FC Zenit storm into the final stage of The Russian/Ukrainian singer is often played on Russian for the first time as part of Games. It is the first attempt the Russian Premier League this April and May. Fol- and Ukrainian radio stations and her concerts are known his world tour The 20/20 to look at the role of sport lowing a long year of match play on three fronts for her interaction with the audience. The singer’s group Experience. The tour fol- in Russia’s social, political (Russian League, Russian Cup, and UEFA Champions includes not only musicians but also composers who do lows the release of his and cultural life. This exhi- League), Zenit players can now focus on the club’s musical arrangements for her songs. Her style fluctuates new album of the same bition examines the close main goal for the season – to become Russian cham- between pop, R&B and alternative rock.QE-1, Aurora name in 2013. Since the link between sport, politics, pions again after last year’s disappointing second Concert Hall, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. American singer made ideology and culture. A dis- place finish. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.elkasinger.ru. Tickets 1,400 - his solo debut in 2002, he play of photographs, docu- Zenit fans who have kept the faith throughout the dark 3,500Rbl. has gone on to record four ments, personal effects, and cold winter months are now in for a treat: spring albums, despite taking a awards and uniforms re- football is at its best at Zenit’s home ground of Petro- 30.04 Wednesday four year break from music flect the history of Russian vsky Stadium. April and May matches promise perfectly 20:00 Zveri to focus on developing his acting career. Performances sport and government politics from the late 19th century green grass, long evenings, beautiful sunsets, and great The popular Russian group is returning to St. Petersburg. of The 20/20 Experience have been noted for their en- to the current day. The museum exhibition features some of atmosphere as the home crowd pushes St. Petersburg’s The band was established by lead singer Roman Bilyk in ergy while the new album has sold more than 11 million the heroes of Russian sport including Imperial figure skater finest on to a new title. 2002 and in 2003 they released their debut album Golod copies, so if you are a fan of the pop singer, you should Nikolai Panin-Kolomenkin, six time wrestling gold medallist (Hunger). The band quickly won a large following with be in for a treat.QSKK, Pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, Ivan Poddubny and Russian chessmaster Alexandr Alekhin The action gets started on Sunday, April 6th, at 13:30, their simple lyrics and romantic themes. The group origi- tel. (+7) 812 670 21 02, justintimberlake.com. Tickets and many more. Visitors can also look at displays covering when Zenit hosts Rubin Kazan. The match will be par- nally worked with Ivan Shapovalov – who was producer 3,000 - 1,500Rbl. the preparation for the infamous 1980 Moscow Olympics ticularly interesting because Zenit has taken so many for teen group sensation t.A.T.u. Zveri have won numerous which were classified as top-secret for many years.QD-1, players from FC Rubin in recent years, including Cristian Russian MTV awards and performed at Eurovision in 2005. 27.05 Tuesday State Museum of Political History of Russia, Ul. Kuiby- Ansaldi last summer, and Alexander Ryazantsev and The band is returning to St. Petersburg after a year’s break 20:00 Aerosmith sheva 2/4, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 61 63, www. Salomon Rondon this winter. Zenit then hosts south- from touring. They are promising to release a new album The American hard rock band is returning to St. Petersburg polithistory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed. 10:00 - 20:00, ern Russian club FC Krasnodar on Saturday, April 12th this spring. QClub A2, pr. Medikov 3, tel. (+7) 812 335 75 as part of their Global Warming World Tour. The band Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. at 19:30. Zenit’s third home match in April comes on 75, www.zve.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 4,000Rbl. was formed in Boston in 1970 and since their first album the 26th at 16:30 vs. FC Volga from Nizhny Novgorod. in 1972 has released a string of multiplatinum albums - 05.03 Wednesday - 31.05 Saturday recording 15 studio albums. The rock group is the best Women’s Folk Costume in Russia of 18th But those three matches will be just a warm-up for the may events selling American band, having sold more than 150 million -20th centuries grand finale, when Zenit hosts arch-rivals FC Dynamo 13.05 Tuesday albums. The band is known for hits such as “Crazy”, “Janie’s This exhibition presents folk costume as a uniquely Rus- Moscow on May 11th. That doozy of a match could well 20:00 Korn Got a Gun”, and “Sweet Emotion”. Come along and listen to sian phenomenon, where its different layers are reflected: decide both clubs’ title ambitions, as both teams are in- This three hour performance is dedicated to the new some of your old favourites and see if these old dogs have the most conspicuous ones are the echo of pagan Slavonic evitably going to be at the top of the Russian Premier album releases by Korn and Soulfly. Soulfly recently re- any new tricks.QSKK, pr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, ideas and the elements of costume of Old Russia that were League table in May. Kick-off on that holiday Sunday leased its ninth album Savages which has been popularly tel. (+7) 812 670 21 02, www.aerosmith.com. Tickets preserved even in folk costume of the 20th century. In the is at 13:30. received in the USA and Europe and the band will open 1,500 - 10,000Rbl. latter, the significant role has also the local art and craft tradi- As any Zenit fan will tell you, Petrovsky Stadium is a their St. Petersburg concert with this album. The band was tions that create and form a unique costume for each area in magical place, and there’s no better way to ring in the formed in 1997 and initially its lyrics focused on spiritual Exhibitions Russia which is clearly evident at this exhibition. The exposi- spring than supporting the Blue-White-Sky Blues in St. and religious themes, but later albums have covered war, tion will be supplemented with the paintings by D.Levitsky, Petersburg’s most historical arena, alongside the Neva violence, aggression, hatred and anger. Soulfly’s perfor- 27.11 Wednesday - 17.03 Monday V.Makovsky, M.Nesterov, E.Polenova and other artists.QD-2, River. mance will then be followed by Korn, considered one of Dinner is served. Russian Museum, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, the founders of nu metal and has influenced such bands The theme of food was in high demand throughout the MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum. E-tickets to home matches can be purchased online at as Evanescence, Slipknot, Staind, Static-X, Disturbed, Def- 18th and 19th centuries by Russian artists - this however ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. tickets.fc-zenit.ru. You can also follow all the latest Zenit tones and Linkin Park. Their performance will be featuring is the first exhibition dedicated to this sumptuous subject news on the official website at en.fc-zenit.ru. tracks from their new album Paradigm Shift. Both bands matter. The exhibition will present more than 300 expo- 09.04 Wednesday - 30.06 Monday will also include some of their best loved hits.QClub A2, nents portraying the full variety of Russian taste from this Nikolay Roerich 1874-1947 By Chris Pascone, editor of www.en.fc-zenit.ru pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 period. The exhibition will include the dinner services of The exhibition is held for the 140th anniversary of the birth 33, www.korn.com. Tickets TBA. the tsars, items of applied and decorative arts, and paint- of Nicholas Roerich - one of the most significant masters of ings depicting various dinners: from modest servings to Russian painting at the end of the 19th century and begin- royal feasts. Works on display include such famous mas- ning of the 20th century. Roerich became known as a public ters as Makovsky, A.Ryabushkin, B.Kustodiev, I.Mashkov, figure and was the initiator of one of the first international Konchalovsky, A.Plastov, Ivanov. Also on display are the agreements for the protection of culture, the Roerich Pact. recipes of Russian cuisine and numerous court menus The collection brings together Roerich’s works from a num- and aristocratic dining experiences from the first half of ber of Russian museums.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois the 19th century.QD-2, Benois Wing, nab. kan. Griboe- Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 dova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open , Mon, Wed, Fri, rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue Open Closed Tue. 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. 14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 15 Features This walking tour is about seven kilometres and takes Museum of the Defence and Blockade of Lenin- you past a number of museums and lovely locations so if grad: If you cross over Panteleimonovsky Bridge continue you can, spend a day or so on it. The tour will also take you east until you reach Solyanoy pereulok (Salt Lane). Turn left past some great cafes, restaurants and bars. So if you re- at Solyanoy pereulok and you will see a museum to the ally want to enjoy getting to know St. Petersburg better, defence of Leningrad. This museum is absorbing. It depicts be prepared to enjoy the history and contemporary culture the survival and defence of the city during the blockade. of the city. The museum was established during the time of the block- ade in 1942 and was first opened in 1946. Griboedov Canal: Start out at Nevsky prospect metro station and head north towards the traditional Orthodox Ulitsa Chaikovskogo: The spelling might look unu- cathedral along Griboedov Canal. The canal was origi- sual but this street is named in honour of the great com- nally constructed during the reign of Catherine the Great poser, Petr Illich Tchaikovsky (1840-1893). Tchaikovsky is in 1764-1790. In 1923 the canal was renamed Griboedov perhaps best known for his 1812 Overture and Swan Lake. Canal in honour of the Russian playwright and diplomat It is thought that he committed suicide by drinking a glass Alexander Griboedov (1795 – 1829). Griboedov is largely of tap water and deliberating contracting cholera to avoid famous for his play Woe from Wit (Gore ot uma). He was a personal scandal. Being a homosexual in Russia was then - talented linguist and diplomat and was killed along with as is now - not something you could be open about. his entire legation by an angry mob in Persia while trying to protect three Armenians. Ulitsa Gagarina: Continuing east you will pass by ul- itsa Gagarina, named after Yury Gagarin (1934-68) the first Field of Mars: Continue north from the Church of the man in space. Gagarin was a pilot before being selected for Saviour and pass by Mikhailovsky Garden. Over the Moika the Soviet space programme. His first and only space flight river you will come to Marsovoe Pole (Field of Mars). This was upon the Vostok 1 on 12 April 1961. He died in a plane field was originally a recreational area. At the end of the crash in 1968. 18th century the meadow was taken over as an army drill- ing ground. In the early 19th century it became known as Liteiny Prospekt: Continue east along Chaikovskogo the Field of Mars. Following the 1917 Revolution, several until you reach the Liteiny Prospekt. At Liteiny Prospekt turn revolutionaries were interred here and it became a memo- right, to the south. During the 19th century a number of rial. large mansions were built along the prospect and it is now starting to be redeveloped for shops, restaurants, night- Eternal flame: Located in the centre clubs and hotels. of the field is the eternal flame. It was Transfiguration Cathedral: Turn left at ulitsa Pestelya and you will enter the oval Transfigurational Square with the first in Russia, being introduced in the Cathedral of the Transfiguration in the centre. This 1967 is one of the few Russian churches that has never been closed. The cathedral was built under Empress Elizaveta Petrovna (1709-62) in 1743-54. In 1825 it burnt down and Suvorov statue: To the northern side of the field, next was reconstructed in 1825-9 in the Empire style. The fence to the Neva River is Suvorov Square and a statue to Field around the cathedral was made using the barrels of Turkish Smolny District Marshal Alexander Suvorov (1727-1800). The general is of- guns seized during the 1828-9 Russo-Turkish War. ten thought of as Russia’s greatest military leader. Of the 93 battles he commanded, he never lost.

Summer Garden: If you follow the road east either Smolny is the district of the royalty and along the Neva River or along the Moika River embank- ment you come to the Summer Garden. The park was origi- nobility. As such the tour will take you nally designed by Peter the Great. A significant attraction of past some of the most elegant buildings the garden was the fountains which were the first in Russia. Mikhailovsky Castle: Opposite the Summer Garden and nicest parks in St. Petersburg. on the other side of the Moika River is Mikhailovsky Castle. The castle was built for Pavel I in 1797-1801. Fearing assas- The district is also intimately connected sination the tsar had the palace constructed with moats surrounding the castle. Safe in his fortress the tsar was able Pereulok Radischeva: Head north up pereulok Radis- with some of the most shocking and to enjoy 40 nights’ rest before being murdered. From 1838- cheva (Radischev Lane) named after Russian philosopher, 43 Russian writer Fedor Dostoevsky studied at the castle writer, Alexander Radischev (1749-1802). His works dis- tragic events in Russia’s history. before being drawn into revolutionary circles. The castle is cussed serfdom and earned him exile to Siberia in 1790- now a portraiture museum to the Russian tsars. 1796. On reaching Kirochnaya ulitsa, turn right. www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 17 Features Features

Water Museum: Opposite the Tauride Palace is the St. Petersburg Museum of Water. Located in the original wa- ter works, the museum includes St. Petersburg’s first water Palkin restaurant, tower built in 1860. The museum is fully interactive, promis- 19th century hospitality revived. ing something of interest for everyone.

Monument to Dzerzhinsky: Heading along Shpaler- naya ulitsa from the Tauride Palace, on the northern side of the road you will come across a monument to Felix Dz- erzhinsky (1877-1926) – Lenin’s spymaster. The Polish born Dzerzhinsky was a career revolutionary and familiar with tsarist techniques of infiltration and provocation of political Tauride Garden: Continue east down Kirochnaya enemies. He was placed in charge of the Vcheka (All Rus- ulitsa until you reach a large park on your left. This is the sian Emergency Commission) which became the main Tauride Garden. The Tauride Garden was laid out in 783- instrument in the Red Terror, killing thousands suspected 1789 on the estate of Grigory Potemkin (1739-91) behind of anti-Soviet activities. During Soviet times he became a the Tauride Palace. Potemkin was a long standing minister legendary figure with tales told of his childhood, his intel- of war and is thought to have been one a lover of Cath- ligence and courage. erine the Great. He was granted the title Prince of Tauride for the conquest of Crimea in 1783. In 1866 the gardens Smolny Cathedral: further east is one of St. Peters- were opened to the public and became a popular ice-skat- burg’s most impressive cathedrals. The cathedral was origi- ing location in winter. During the 20th century additional nally built as part of a convent complex for the illegitimate Following the Bolshevik revolution, the restaurant was sporting facilities have been located in the garden along Elizaveta Petrovna, however, instead of becoming a nun, PALKIN RESTAURANT converted into the Titan movie theatre and enjoyed similar with a number of monuments to famous Russians includ- she became empress. The church was built in 1748-64. The St. Petersburg is a city that embodies history. As the capital of success. In 1934, it hosted the premiere of Chapaev, an epic ing Petr Tchaikovsky, the famous composer and writer Ser- building today is used for concerts and weddings. the Russian tsars, St. Petersburg has been the home of lead- film about the civil war. The movie theatre also held inter- gey Yesenin (1895-1925). Yesenin was one sentimentalist ing political figures, writers, reformers, tyrants and terrorists national film festivals and became a favourite of Leningrad’s writer with turbulent lifestyle. Her supported the Bolshevik and sometimes individuals that fit all these categories. Nevs- bohemian circles. uprisings, believing that the revolution would improve life, ky prospekt and the city centre have witnessed much that To return Palkin to its former use as a restaurant the owners but becoming disillusioned he criticised the Bolshevik re- is grand and tragic in Russia’s history. After a day of visiting brought in a team of specialists from the State Hermitage gime. He committed suicide in 1925 – his farewell poem museums, art galleries and wandering the beautiful streets – Museum to supervise the restoration work of the building’s was written in blood – suspicions remain to this day that the Palkin restaurant is a good location to enjoy a meal and original interiors. These interiors are now regularly used for he was murdered by the secret police – although the poet continue experiencing St. Petersburg’s dramatic history. shooting historical programmes and films. is known to have been severely depressed. The restaurant bears the name of the original restaura- The renovated Palkin restaurant was reopened in 2002 and teurs, the Palkin family, first mentioned in 1785. Initially, has revived the traditions of 19th century hospitality. These Tauride Palace: On the north-eastern side of the gar- the popularity of the family’s taverns, and then later the traditions include cuisine which would have been familiar to dens is the Tauride Palace. Considered the grandest palace Palkin restaurant chain was extraordinary. The most fash- the Russian aristocracy at the time and here you can savour owned by a nobleman in the 18th century it was built in ionable Palkin was situated on the corner of the Nevsky and dishes that once delighted top society in the imperial capital. 1783-9. After the death of her former favourite, Catherine Vladimirsky Prospekts, 47. The building was purchased by The Palkin has renovated the concert hall and now repli- the Great purchased the land to be her summer town- Konstantin Palkin in 1871, after he inherited the business cates 19th century dinners and also holds receptions for house. In 1799 Pavel, detesting his mother’s taste gave of his father, Pavel Palkin. The original building had to be exhibitions, festivals and play premiers. The restaurant also the palace to his favourite cavalry regiment to be used as Smolny Institute: to the left of Smolny Cathedral reconfigured to serve as a restaurant but after renovations runs so called soirees, “Nights with the Stars: Dinner by barracks and many of the fine interiors ended up being de- is the Smolny institute. This building was constructed in were completed the new restaurant was opened in 1874 Candlelight” which have included some leading Russian stroyed. In 1906 it was converted into Russia’s first house of 1806-08 by the Society for the Education of Noble Maidens. with 25 dining halls, a billiard room, private cabinets, and a performers. parliament, the Imperial Duma and following the 1917 Feb- The original course of study was 12 years, until the young majestic staircase that was adorned with exotic plants and The Palkin offers panoramic views of Nevsky Prospekt and ruary Revolution it was used as the seat of the Provisional ladies were 18. Initially subjects included divine law, lan- a sparkling fountain. gives the visitor a chance to re-experience the best of Rus- Government. It is now used as the assembly for the mem- guages, drawing, history, geography, and arithmetic, ele- In 1904, an extension was added and the concert hall reno- sian history and culture. ber nations of the Commonwealth of Independent States. ments of physics, dancing, music, manners, needlework, vated. The restaurant’s visitors were treated to performanc- QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 and housekeeping. In 1917 the building was chosen as es by famous musicians and singers, and the concepts of an 71, www.palkin.ru. the Bolshevik headquarters during the October/November ‘after theatre meal’ and also the ‘Sunday lunch with music’ Revolution and was Lenin’s residence for several months. were also introduced. The building became the city hall during the Soviet period The restaurant’s status made it popular among St. Peters- and it was here that Sergey Kirov (1886-1934) was assas- burg’s socialites and intellectuals. Visitors to the restaurant sinated. Kirov was the leader of the Leningrad branch of the included the poet Alexander Blok, scientist Alexander But- Communist Party and was becoming increasingly popular. lerov, writers Nikolai Gogol, Fedor Dostoevsky, Nikolai Lesk- His death removed a potential rival and Stalin and acted as ov, Anton Chekhov, painter Mikhail Saltykov-Shchedrin, the pretext for Stalin’s next round of repressions and purg- and composer Petr Tchaikovsky. The restaurant was among es. The Smolny Institute now houses a museum to Lenin the first in Russia to adopt elements of French cuisine into and the Faculty of International Relations of St. Petersburg traditional Russian cooking. Visitors were also attracted by State University. the atmosphere, which was similar to a private club. 18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 19 Where to eat St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus Prospekt Prospekt is a brand new Russian restaurant located just Russian and Ukrainian around the corner from St. Isaac's Cathedral. Its almost in- Idiot visible to the passerby but that doesn't mean it should be With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy missed! There's an excellent selection of traditional Russian antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material dishes with a few modern additions. Add to that a wonder- in English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the ful historical decor and a menu written in old Russian to go atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional along with said decor. The fish was some of the best in the Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food city, extremely fresh and full of flavor straight from the grill. and a reasonable kids menu. Many people though come Traditional Russian specials like borsch and potato pancakes to Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. All (draniki) are as good as any Russian babushka can whip the guests are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka. up.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 21, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 (+7) 952 236 01 24, www.prospekt-restaurant.ru. Open 946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTASW PTASW Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1 Koleso Typically a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust Step down into the warm and cosy cave that is Koleso and kind of a place where working men wash down cheap vod- get settled in for an evening of old Slavic comfort. Iron can- ka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-siècle inspired delabras give the room a medieval glow, while the crisp place is as far away from that kind of place as you can imag- creamy tablecloths lend things a romantic touch. The menu ine. This is Russian food fit for tsars, complete with black cav- is truly Slavic and will satisfy anyone looking for a good fill of iar and reindeer meat. The historic dishes are rich and well wholesome Russian food. Meat is king and there is a broad made, making this a very classy introduction to Russian cui- choice of succulent meaty cuts as well as delicacies such as sine.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tongue and liver to be found in the extensive menu.QD-3, tel. (+7) 812 570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 Voznesensky pr. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 - 24:00. €€. PTAULESW 21 25. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTASW Valenki and Varezhka NEP Located just round the corner from St. Isaac’s Cathedral NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage this restaurant has a style all of its own. The vaulted interior to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy and provides lovely lines and the décor is homely with a style warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back, order your that mixes German homeliness with something quaintly meal and be enthralled by the musicians with their charming, Russian. The menu offers standard European fare with personality packed star singer. They offer an array of delicious some old Soviet favourites.QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 87, fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 989 77 95. Open 12:00 QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) - 22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 until last guest. PTAW 812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAESW SYMBOL key Olivie P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which vari- ous types are served here in abundance. Olivie offers Russian E Live music S Take away and Caucasian dishes with the chef’s personal interpretations. Classic walnut source with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled green sauce, a classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking dessert - it’s just a small part of what you the chef offers.QD- 3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 V Home delivery W Wifi 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 21 Where to eat Where to eat Tandoor Asian and Indian Situated mere steps from St. Isaac’s cathedral, Tandoor is Cardamon about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get. For The oriental style interior is completed by Indian tapes- 20 years now they’ve been serving up real, authentic Indian tries on the floor. Definitely worth sampling is its deli- fare and have won numerous ‘best restaurant’ prizes for their cious naan and poppadom. Longtime Indian resident efforts too. They have all the usual favourites so you can try in St. Petersburg Ravi runs the show around here and is a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst mopping determined to make it a great success. Food-wise, he up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan bread.QD- got everything right, although we were a bit amused 3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 by the selection of Russian dishes on the menu as well; 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. we haven’t yet given those a try, but as for Indian food, PTALEGSW Cardamom is a welcome addition to the city.QC-2, 1-ya liniya 18, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 38 Tandoori Nights 99, www.cardamom-bar.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. The menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the PTASW clay-oven Tandoori-specialities. When cooked here, the meat acquires a delicious flavour and specific tenderness. Chopsticks There’s plenty of options for vegetarians too and every Chopsticks is fine dining Chinese style. The interior has guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10% discount on been decorated in your traditional Chinese style with the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, the walls decorated with traditional Chinese paintings. tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.com. Quiet background music adds to the refined Chinese at- Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€. PALVSW mosphere. The staff are all dressed in elegant Chinese silk gowns, enhancing the sense of Oriental refinement. The TAO master chef produces not only his favourite Szechwan TAO is a hip, modern, Asian oasis in the very centre of the and Cantonese dishes but also popular dishes from city. The interior, where chic Asia meets Russia, is impres- India and Thailand. The central location makes this one sive - notice the enormous wooden carved doors in the of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. windows, they are amazing. They have not forgotten to Petersburg. Be prepared to take your time over the meal focus on the food as well. We recommend trying their and expect to use chopsticks! QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. beef in black pepper sauce, which is something of a small 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 51 15, www. hit here, and also their famous wasabi prawns. QD-2, facebook.com/chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. Konyushennaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 57 PTSW 57, www.taorestaurant.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PALESW Curry House Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta took the courage to open his own Curry House in the Beer Restaurants Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry Bierstube House is a perfect addition to the cities food scene serv- With their own brewery this restaurant is a good place to start ing food from all compass points off India. The menu is if you are looking for some homebrewed hoppy stuff. Choose extensive and we really enjoyed the big variety we or- from a seat in the bright glass covered courtyard balcony or tuck dered: Samosa, Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi yourselves in inside the wood and stucco countryside house Chole (marinated chick peas) served with plain rice and off themed centre of the restaurant. Either way be sure to load up course butter naan. More good news is the great location, on beer snacks like calmari and fried cheese sticks before the basically next doors from the Mariinsky so spice up before main events, Bavarian and Czech cuisine inspired meaty heavy- the performance!QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, weights, arrive.QC-4, Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.com. Open Center West Pushkin Hotel, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166, 12:00 - 23:00. €€. MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www.bier-stube.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAULSW King Pong The bright colours, funky paintings and high ceilings make Pivnaya Karta for a cooly relaxed Asian alternative to all the sushi bars This is a unique place in St. Petersburg, with over 400 different around town. We recommend filling up on an assortment kinds of craft and imported beers. You’ll find yourself stand- of the yummy starters, particularly the dim sum or one of ing behind the bar, in a New York style interior, helped by pro- their big brothy noodle soups. The mains are elegantly pre- fessionals to find that specific kind of beer you like, or will learn pared with fresh ingredients and a little ‘European’ in spice to love. This place is all about beer, it is non-smoking, and only levels, but you can always ask for some chili sauce to add minimal finger food is available. This place is about what really yourself.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 16, MAdmiralteiskaya, matters - beer. All beers can also be bought for take away.QE- 8, Admiralteysky Pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 82 56, www.kingpong.ru. Open 12:00 - 2, Ul. Vosstaniya 55, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 273 +7 (812) 945 84 72 24:00. €. PTAEGSW 93 78, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €. PAS 22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 23 Where to eat Where to eat The Corner Pub Next to Mariinsky theatre An English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded from the marcellis Show this ad people who brought you Dickens. The bar carries on the and get same traditions as Dickens and you might even know The Marcellis restaurants are one of the most popular a discount 10 % Jimmy the barman. The menu remains unchanged but the places for Italian cuisine in St. Petersburg. The restau- line of beer has been improved dramatically - more than rants have long since won the love and trust of the 30 sorts of beer, including the ever popular craft beers. A city’s residents with their own home-made pasta, Ital- huge English breakfast is available until 17:00 and smokers ian deserts and of course, great wine. are allowed... Well, at least while it is legal! It is particularly At present there are seven Marcellis restaurants in St. pleasant to sit back and relax with a cigar and English ale Petersburg: three of which are small, cosy affairs in the in a comfortable armchair by the fire. Every Wednesday city centre and there are four spacious, and bright res- Q they have live rockabilly music. C-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, taurants in the suburbs. The first Marcellis was founded M Chkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63. Open 12:00 - six years ago and is located on ul. Vosstaniya 15. 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAESW Another two restaurants are located on Nevsky pr. Craft Bier Cafe which are particularly favoured by business people. Beer-lovers be warned! 40 different kinds of beer can Delicious italian Meetings between business partners are often held be found in Craft on tap, more than anywhere else in St. here and company staff often meet up in the evening and russian food! Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also here along with tourists. One of the newest restaurants Amazing Pastry! Craft’s special Russian brew. Owner Sergey takes specific is located on Nevksy pr. 21. The panoramic windows pride in having four different kinds of lager available that give guests an excellent view of the city. However, he specially made based on his own favourites from Russia, the most attractive location in the restaurant is the Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries Grand Hall and not because of the cityscape beyond St. Petersburg, he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favou- the windows… the open kitchen, immediately draws pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, rite beverage. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy your attention. Sitting comfortably at the bar table you www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru Next to to mingle with locals and expats alike. Craft serves good can watch the chefs’ painstaking work. Since there is reservations: Mariinsky theatre pub-food, but it’s beer that rules.QE-2, Gagarinskaya ul. no barrier between the kitchen and the dining hall, this +7 (812) 572 54 48 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www. creates a special atmosphere within the restaurant. The craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00, soft lighting and the combination of bright colours in Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€. PAEW the interior makes your visit particularly pleasant. This is the only restaurant within the company which is open Dickens 24 hours a day. This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot The second restaurant on Nevsky pr. 43 is the more of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the recent. This is cosy and comfortable, a good place to chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions. enjoy a meal after visiting St. Petersburg’s largest mu- Don’t forget to try the breakfast here - it’s a great hangover seums. Visitors to the suburbs are usually families with cure and real authentic British. Dickens has an authentic pub children. Here you can enjoy spending time with family atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub that you’ll and put it to good use. The suburban Marcellis often find in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the run cooking classes for children and have other enter- second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya tainment programmes. pl., tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open In May all of the restaurants open their terraces. The 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW most attractive terrace is at ul. Odoevskogo 34. The terrace is located on the roof of the building and offers Manneken Pis a lovely view. The most peaceful view can be found in Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue in the city centre on ul. Vosstaniya 15. Brussels. Manneken Pis means “Little Man Pees” in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). This bar looks like your standard European bar, but just wait till you see the beer menu. Whether you are a connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a little different Manneken Pis will turn your affection for beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range Belgium and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over 150 types of bottled beer, including Trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer, while the food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAGW 24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 25 Where to eat Where to eat Caucasian and Central European Asian Kroo Cafe Khinkalnaya na Neve It’s always nice to see new places appear in interesting central Situated only a few minutes from Gostiny Dvor, this res- neighbourhoods not frequently visited by foreigners. In the taurant offers good Georgian food for a reasonable price. proximity of the beautiful Tavrichesky Park Kroo Cafe serves Although some dishes might not be as spicy as they are breakfasts from 8:30 and keeps on going into the night. The in Georgia, the flavourful Georgian wine and the nice well balanced menu is created by their French chef who is and quiet living-room atmosphere makes this restaurant keen on buying his own products at the market, which only a good option to spend your evening. On the menu are ads to the feeling that what you get is fresh. Topped off by all the traditional Georgian dishes such as different sorts friendly and smiling waitresses Kroo Cafe won’t disappoint. Trappist of khinkali (dough filled with meat), pkhali (chopped and QF-3, Suvorovsky pr. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 906 Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself in minced vegetables with walnuts and herbs), and tasty 273 11 11, www.kroocafe.com. Open 08:30 - 24:00, Fri, good beer, good food and good service. Trappists shashlik!QE-3, Sadovaya ul. 13-15, MNevsky pr., tel. Sat 08:30 - 01:00. PTASW are an order of Catholic monks who live by strict (+7) 812 315 08 99, www.hinkaly.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, rules, but brew fantastic beer in their monasteries Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest. PAESW Soup Wine in Belgium and Holland. With an entire book filled Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek with beer options ranging from affordable to over Pryanosti i radosti and agreeable diner. The menu is as small as the place 2,000Rbl, Trappist is definitely a beer place. However, Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on itself, boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and don’t expect to find any Baltika or cheap Russian the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant salads but also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine beers here, as they have imported more than 100 from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say and huge salads which come in bowls heaving with green beers from Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. too popular, the tables are spaced close to each other and it leaves. Given the size and how easy it is to sit and linger The food is also quite tasty with Belgian classics and quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but some- listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised traditional bar food to choose from. From Friday to how it works. Yo feel like you in are in a busy, fun and thriv- to book ahead.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24, MNevsky pr., Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered di- ing atmosphere. The menu includes European delicacies tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru. Open 12:00 - rectly from the White Sea.QЕ-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, and Russian favourites with a couple of Caucasian meals 23:00. €. PAGSW MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www. thrown in to spice things up.QD-1, Ul. Mal. Posadskaya cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www. Via dell’oliva 01:00. €€. PTAEGSW ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAW Some of the remnants of Via dell Oliva’s former guise as a Greek restaurant remain and the choice of elaborate seat- ing areas (derelict castle, quiet village street or bougeanvilla covered house) all point towards the fact that the focus is still Mediterranean, if indeed all that’s left of the Greek menu is the Souvlaki. For the most part the influence is Italian, although you’ll also spot Russian hits such as stro- ganoff in there too. Dishes from the grill are most popular and whatever you order be sure to request some of their excellent lemony olive oil for dipping.QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 31, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 65 63, www. viadelloliva.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAESW

Fine dining Astoria Café The hotel in which this restaurant is located has seen over a century of history. This history can be felt inside, and not just through the old pictures of dancers of the famous Mariinsky theatre. The modern interior and cui- sine, with a mix of trendy recipes and traditional Russian dishes, makes for a perfect and relaxed lunch or dinner after roaming the city. We recommend their signature dishes, especially their ‘Pavlova’ dessert, which is named after the famous ballerina. It is made from meringue, and is so light that it can be enjoyed after any amount of food. Sit near the windows to enjoy the view of the majestic St. Isaac’s Cathedral.QD-3, Hotel Astoria, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 58 15, www.thehotelastoria.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTALW 26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 27 Where to eat Where to eat Caviar Bar and Restaurant Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the first tier of the Grand Hotel Europe’s elegant staircase, but the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles. The Caviar Bar and Restaurant subtly and unquestioningly proves that the culinary arts also have a home in Russia. Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the heavenly hors d’oeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the city’s only vodka sommelier.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 66 22, www.grandhoteleurope.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PALEW

Palkin Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior is as sophisticated and tasteful as in imperial times, which all adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a meal in some rich aristocrat’s home. The menu is bursting with lux- urious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a by- gone era. They also have a seasonally changing five-course special menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing area of the world.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin. ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€€. PTAEW

Russian Empire The three luxurious dining rooms each have their own in- dividual atmosphere and all are decorated genuinely in the finest style. Diners eat from Gianni Versace porcelain plates and drink wine out of Bohemian crystal glasses whilst sur- rounded by 24-carat gold ornaments, in what once was part of Stroganoff Palace. The wine and cognac list is extensive and rather exclusive: an armagnac from 1812 can be or- dered just by the spoonful!QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, Stroganov palace, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 13 43, old. True Indian cooking concord-catering.ru/restaurants/russian-ampir/. Open 17:00 until last guest. €€€€. PTALEW and hospitality since 1994 International Buddha-Bar 20years There are branches of the glamorous Buddha-Bar brand in numerous cities around the world such as Paris, London, Monte Carlo and Dubai all of which are frequented by the A-list celebrity crowd. The Buddha-Bar restaurant brings the finest elements of the lounge-restaurant brand to Russia with a wide-ranging menu of fancy pan-Asian cuisine with French accents, an inimitable lounge music soundtrack and ultra-chic surroundings. Flashy, classy and a little bit exotic, Buddha-Bar proves popular with the cocktails crowd and fans of pan-Asian cuisine.QF-3, Sinopskaya nab. 78, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. 10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886 (+7) 812 318 07 07, www.buddha-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - www.tandoor-spb.ru 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAESW 28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 29 Where to eat Where to eat Meat Head Meat Head is set in an enjoyable wine-cellar-like setting with well spaced-out tables enabling intimate conversa- tions. With meat being the main player we ordered the strip loin steak and it was perfect. The menu is quite diverse and we tried scallops, salads and a creamy beet soup with goat cheese, fresh-baked breads as well as tea cocktails with liquor. The prices are similar to a top Manhattan steak house.QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2/D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 955 55 59, www.meat-head.ru. Open 09:00 - 40 beers on tap 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€€. PALESW

Over 200 Paradise cafe&bar The menu is pure pan-Asian: rolls, miso soups, wok dishes. bottled beers There is a wide range of cocktails and the Mai Tai we enjoyed was good. It is not a restaurant as much as an oversized chill Sunday beer brunch out lounge, where the food is merely a background item, something one needs to sustain themselves while sitting Daily beer degustation for hours and people watching in the cavernous surround- ings, smoking a hookah, drinking sumptuous cocktails, and Join us and nd enjoying the café’s karaoke nights and occasional concerts. QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2D, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 your own beer! 955 55 59, www.paradise-cafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. €€€. PAESW

Gagarinskaya ulitsa 6, Port Artur + 7 812 983 55 59, This two storied restaurant-café is set to a nautical theme. www.craftpub.ru Dark oak wood furnishings and textured green paint is reminiscent of a high class yacht club. Leather chairs and couches are extremely comfortable. A good quality sound system in the bar plays classic rock; and concerts featur- ing leading Russian musicians as well as international per- formers are held regularly. The walls of the restaurant are adorned with nautical images. The service is friendly and attentive.QE-3, Zvenigorodskaya ul. 12/17, MZnenig- orodskaya, tel. (+7) 812 953 32 50, www.portartur-spb. ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. PAESW

Romeo’s Bar and Kitchen The décor and atmosphere are relaxed, inviting guests to linger long and spend cozy evenings with their guests. A nice place to bring a date or have a family celebration (a chil- dren’s menu is available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC-3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. PTALSW

Sunduk Tightly packed into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in order.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PASW 30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 31 Where to eat Where to eat Italian Arcobaleno Italian restaurant Arcobaleno (which in Italian means “a rainbow”), located inside the Domina Hotel, is colourful as the title suggests. Whereas most 5 star hotel restaurants often play it safe with bland inte- The only places rior, Arcobaleno boldly immerses its clientele in or- where Belgian beer anges, reds, blues, and purples. The biggest plus of and real Flemish dishes the place is its lunches: for a reasonable price you are served perfectly can get up to four delicious plates from a wide array Cafe Trappist of choices including their terrific in-house deserts. 36 Radischeva Street QC-3, Domina Hotel St. Petersburg, Bol. Morskaya +7 (812) 275-99-35 ul. 54, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. Open 07.00 - 23.00. €€. Cafe Manneken Pis PTAULGSW 198 Moskovsky Prospect +7 (812) 371-90-31 Il Lago dei Cigni Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant un- der the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. Close to the central city, the restaurant is lo- cated on Krestovsky Island in the middle of the Neva River delta giving guests a beautiful view which is particularly Unique bar and boutique attractive as the sun sets over the Finnish Gulf. The res- with 400 kinds of beer taurant itself sits on the very edge of Swan Lake (also Pivnaya Karta known as Northern Lake), giving visitors the opportunity 55 Vosstaniya Street to watch these magnificent birds throughout the year. +7 (812) 273-93-78 With spacious interiors and set in the peaceful environ- ment of Krestovsky Island.QA-1, Severnaya doroga 21, www.beercard.ru MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 602 07 07, www. illago.ru. €€€. PTAESW bringing in the beer

Makaronniki If you are looking for a beer with culture you can taste Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky you can’t beat a Belgium brew. Belgium beer is older sports stadium, Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu than the country itself. The first brews were made by with world class wines. In summer months the menu fits Cistercian monks at the time of the First Crusade at the the location with rooftop al fresco dining available, re- end of the 11th century. Back than the low alcohol beer vealing unusual views of Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit was considered a healthy alternative to water – some- of Vasilevsky Island and the State Hermitage Museum thing which most visitors might well appreciate! in background – along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks. Life jazz performances on Fridays. The history of modern Belgium brews begins in the 17th QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) century when the abbot at La Trappe Monastery in France 812 677 60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - decided the Cistercian’s were becoming too libertine and 24:00. €€. PTALSW set down a strict code for brewing beer and staying seri- ously devout. With the French Revolution many of these Palermo devout and devoted brewers fled to Belgium – where Palermo is a cosy restaurant, a stone’s throw from beer is appreciated regardless of religious affiliation. The Nevsky pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is monks established a national tradition of fine beer. decorated in an Italian style with frescoes giving you Another feature of Belgium beer is that it is served in views of Italian beeches below. The muted, pale blue a range of goblets and chalices. These ornate glasses lighting is reminiscent of dusk. The soundtrack of clas- give you a novel drinking experience. The beer pro- sic movies plays softly in the background, putting you duced by these monks is known as ‘Trappist’ beer and is instantly into a relaxed frame of mind. In keeping with considered one of the best brews around. The proceeds the Italian décor, Palermo offers a Mediterranean menu of all Trappist beers go to supporting monasteries and with healthy salads, plenty of olives and lean, clean charitable organisations. So next time you want to treat meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3, Nab. yourself to some high quality beer, look out for a Bel- reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 764 gium brew, it’ll taste good, has class, and you’re helping 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. to make the world a better place. PTAESW

32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 33 Where to eat Where to eat

Vladimirsky pr.12 Working hours Seafood tel:8(921)962-54-76 of the restaurant Fish House [email protected] 11:30 - 02:00 Fish, fish, more fish and seafood - this is one for the pisci- vores, although with a good beef stroganoff on the menu www.questepasta.ru Business - lunch time www.questepasta.com carnivores will be happy too. This very plain looking fish (monday-friday) house specialises in American style fish grills - the portions 11:30 - 16:00 are huge as well as the massive ceramics they arrive on. We Business-breakfasts, enjoyed the trout with spinach, although it took a long time banquets, weddings to grill it to perfection. They also do some nice Russian pick- REAL TRADITIONAL and corporate events, led fish with delicious black bread.QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4, Steak Houses culinary master-classes, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 448 22 77, www.fish-spb.ru. ITALIAN FOOD wine degustations. Open 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PTAULESW Stroganoff Steakhouse If steak is your thing, a visit to this deluxe ranchhouse, MORE THAN La Perla perfect for the modern sophisticated cattleman, is sure The good old famous Matrosskaya Tishina, one of the best to satisfy. The rich leather upholstery, the green bank- 20 TYPES OF REAL fish restaurants of the city has got a new name and menu! ers lamps, the sepia pictures from the bygone era are The exclusive dishes of former times are kept in the new nothing compared to the delicious food. The steaks ITALIAN COFFEE menu but it has been enriched by a range of lower priced, are the main attraction, but the buffalo wings and ev- more accessible ones. This metamorphose makes the fish erything else on the menu are also worthy support acts restaurant not only a good option for fine dining and sea- to the main steak event.QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. food lovers but also for those who are looking for simple, 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 55 14, www. European food for a reasonable price. The menu also in- stroganoffsteakhouse.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€€. cludes meat dishes.The nautical inspired interior is still the PTAULESW same. This small and cosy restaurant with atmospheric music and sophisticated staff is as the name says, a ‘pearl’ For hundreds more restaurants in the centre of St. Petersburg.QE-3, Ul. Marata 54/34, in St. Petersburg check out our website MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 740 18 20, www.mfh-spb.ru. www.st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTASW 22.13 Quest’è Pasta Founded by member of St. Petersburg’s Italian commu- Тkemali, matsoni, lobio, nity, this is a restaurant for Italians and those who ap- sulguni… The words roll preciate everything Italian. The first floor has a discrete off the tongue like honey, design with pastel colours. The second storey is deco- the tongue tingles as from rated like a 19th century mansion with a fireplace, high the taste of white wine ceilings and stucco walls. On celebrations you can hear and they carry the scent live opera music. The menu includes the usual pizzas of fruit trees graced with as well as their own specialities for those wanting pizza sunlight. Succulent, incredible Georgia! The 22.13 team with a novelty. A bottle of Italian wine is always a good has returned from Tbilisi with a colourful mosaic of new addition to your evening meal! For desert, then there impressions and the sweet aftertaste of southern cook- is no doubt about it, panna cotta or lemon cake.QE-3, ing. The restaurant has brought to St. Petersburg new Vladimirsky pr. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 921 962 Georgian dishes that preserve the traditional cuisine 54 76, www.questepasta.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€. but take plenty of new ideas from Europe and Asia. It PTAVESW is this devotion to hospitality that has inspired 22.13. In their spring menu you will find familiar dishes: khinkali, Testo khachapuri, satsivi, pelamushi… But the taste will be a Pizza and pasta are what they do here in this novelty new discovery because their aim is to give you their im- little basement bar, named after the Russian word for pressions of modern Tbilisi – its passionate life and its dough. They make their own pasta, changing the menu willingness to try all that is interesting of international daily and serve up the pizza with tasty Italian style thin cuisine. The chefs have taken traditional Georgian in- crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red gredients and accentuated unusual and interesting ele- interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it perfect for ments. When visiting 22.13 be prepared to experience lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers Tbilisi, a city with an unquenchable thirst for life! crazes. are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3, QD-2, Konyushennaya pl. 2, MAdmiralteiskaya, Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64 tel. (+7) 812 647 80 50, www.22-13.com. Open 09:00 20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. - 02:00. €. PTALESW €. PTASW

34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 35 Where to eat Where to eat in 1981, it became the home of the Leningrad Rock Club, Marcelli’s the epicenter of the Soviet rock scene during perestroika. Marcelli’s is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with Sukhoe - Dry Monitored by the KGB, it was the first legal rock venue in a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of Polusladkoe - Semi-sweet the city and bands such as Kino, Alisa, DDT, and Akvarium condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese performed there regularly. The next building (15-17)is the case there), although it’s the tables full of noisy dinners Sladkoe - Sweet boarding house of count Mikhail Tolstoy (1845-1913). that really make up the unpretentious atmosphere. The Tolstoy was a hero of the Russian-Turkish War of 1877-1878 pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in rice, wok and curry for mains. They also have delicious and the home was built in 1910-1912 just before his death. marathon-runner-sized portions. The dishes pop with cocktails. For those looking for a full Thai experience, the Among the many famous people that have resided in this garlic and the sauces are infused to bursting point with restaurant also has a massage salon in the nearby court- building is Eduard Khil (1934-2012), the Soviet crooner tomato, chili and basil - delicious. With an open kitchen, yard.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. was a recent Youtube sensation with Trololo. Marcelli’s offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality (+7) 812 961 92 21, www.mopscafe.ru. Open 14:00 - Soviet science fiction novelist and philosopher Ivan Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21 01:00, Wed, Thu 14:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:30. Yefremov (1908-1972) lived in house 23. Yefremov is best (metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), €€€. PAS known for his 1957 classic Andromeda Nebula, which tells pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul. the story of a communist utopia set far in the future. Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky Pepper Moon Ul. Rubinshteina ends when it meets up with three other 43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www. From the street, the restaurant looks very small, but in streets (Zagorodny pr., Razyezzhaya ul., and ul. Lomono- marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. €. PTAGSW reality its three rooms can accommodate more than 100 sova) to form Pyat uglov (five corners), the only such in- people. The designers have realized an interesting and tersection in St. Petersburg. At the corner of Rubinshteina Mops complex idea with transforming walls: if you want to sit and Zagorodny (38) is where acclaimed Soviet theoretical The first Thai restaurant in St. Petersburg and the inte- alone and have no one bother you, you can ask the waiter physicist Matvey Bronshtein (1906-1938) lived before he rior is truly exquisite. Mops cultivates the appearance of to fully insulate your table. The menu offers European was arrested in 1937 during the Great Purges. elegant chaos. It has a terrace and three rooms to meet dishes, as well as Italian cuisine which is so popular nowa- varying tastes, offering you a cosy spot to smoke a hoo- days. Note the icy display case of fresh fish and seafood. kah or to sing your heart away in the karaoke hall. The You can choose what you want, and how it is cooked. In Restaurants on unusual interior design emphasises contrasts and claims the morning, Pepper Moon serves a good breakfast of Rubinshteina street to be aimed at those with an ‘artistic personality’. The porridge, cheese cakes, pancakes, and fried eggs.QE-3, Geografia restaurant’s Thai chef who produces authentic, unadul- Ul. Rubinshteina 9/3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 As you might guess from the name, the menu includes terated meals with a menu focusing on dumplings, sal- 969 85 98, www.grato-group.ru/peppermoon. €€. cuisine from around the world. Here you can enjoy the ads, spring rolls and soups as entrees and noodles and PTASW best from the Middle East, China, Vietnam, Thailand, Mexico, Peru, Europe and Russia. Choosing a single dish Rubinshteina Street can be really tricky. But the eating is only half the pleasure Ulitsa Rubinshteina is known for its diverse bars, cafes, and at Georgafia, the restaurant takes a great pride in the cock- Music&Bar MOPS Exclusively designed restaurants and is a the place to experience contemporary tails, offering more than 40 original cocktails that are set to VIP-Karaoke Club and deeply therapeutic: Russian culture. Initially the alley appeared in the 1740s. In make you cast away any preconceived ideas about match- Thai cuisine restaurant Massages Facials Spa Rituals 1929 it was renamed in honour of composer Anton Ru- ing food and drink. If making a choice is difficult, ask one of binshtein (1829-1894) who lived for a number of years at the waiters and they will be happy to guide on this exotic address: Saint-Petersburg, Best Traditions of Thai SPA Highly professional house 38. A premiere piano virtuoso in the 19th century, holiday.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 5, MMayakovskaya, tel. Rubinshteina str.12 and Massage in St.Petersburg therapists from Thailand he wrote 20 operas, and founded the St. Petersburg Con- (+7) 812 340 00 74, www.geo-rest.com. Open 11:00 un- tel.: +7 (911)926-11-90, servatory (his older brother Nikolay founded the Moscow til last guest, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. €€. PAESW +7 (921)961-92-21 address: Saint-Petersburg, Conservatory). Rubinshteina str.12 As you walk down the street away from McDonald’s on tel.: +7 (911)928-44-50 Nevsky is the former residence of the great Prince Sergey www.mopsspa.ru Aleksandrovich (House 1 –to your right) and the duke G.G. Meklenburg-Strelitsky (5). At the corner of Grafsky Pereulok is a newer building, constructed by Soviet authori- ties in 1929-1931 in an early constructivist style(7). Olga Berggolts (1910-1975), a poet famous whose radio addresses raised morale during the Blockade, lived in the building from 1932-1943. Formally called the Communal House of Engineers and Writers, informally it was known as the tears of socialism. Across the street (18 – to your left) is the Theatre of Europe, also known as the Maly Dramat- ichesky Teatr – which puts on some of the best plays in St. Petersburg. This building was constructed in 1837, and re- constructed in 1899. Further on the right is the boarding and meeting house of M.F. Ruadze originally built in 1863-1864 (13). Over the years many organizations have been based here and 36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 37 Where to eat Where to eat Celebrate a grand Easter Tea Time in Tea Lounge REstaurants in hotels The Grand Hotel Europe is offering an especially festive Forget coffee culture, in Russia tea is culture. Whether you Spring is the season to take advantage of the warmer celebration this Easter with the very best of European, Rus- are visiting friends or meeting a business delegation you weather and go out for a meal and there is plenty to choose sian and pan Asian cuisine. The menu not only celebrates are likely to be offered tea. So it is worth knowing the finer from. Some of the city’s best restaurants are putting on ir- Easter but also the arrival of spring and includes hot cross points of Russian tea. Traditionally, Russians brew a con- resistible meals at prices that would tempt even a pauper. buns, chocolate sweets, Greek Easter bread, chocolate centrated form of tea, called zavarka. Pour some zavarka Park Inn’s Paulaner restaurant is going Bavarian, while the fondues, as well as delicious meals of lamb, potatoes, into your cup (or more traditionally a glass placed in an Radissan Royal is offering great value Indian buffet meals baby carrots and healthy salads. Music buffs will be in- elegant metal holder, podstakannik), which you then di- for the midweek. To take full advantage of the city’s gusta- terested to know that Tchaikovsky spent his honeymoon lute with hot water from the samovar. The function of a tory specials, you need to turn eating into a full time job. at the Grand Hotel Europe and to honour the composer samovar is to boil water and keep it warm. Russians rarely However, if that is impossible In Your Pocket is here to make each Friday night the hotel holds a concert at L’Europe consider tea sufficient by itself and add lemon, honey or the ideal place for a Russian tea-party.QD-3, Four Sea- it the perfect hobby! restaurant where you can listen to his compositions varanye (a type of jam) to the brew. sons Lion Palace, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteis- played by a live orchestra, watch a ballet duo performing kaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/ Angleterre appoints new chef the White Adagio from Swan Lake and enjoy a classical stpetersburg/. €€€. Angleterre’s Borsalino restaurant has appointed a new evening in a classical setting while dinning on the finest master-chef, Stefano Labio. The Italian restaurant has re- food.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovs- Victoria is changing cently undergone renovations and the appointment of a kaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www. The Taleon Imperial’s Victoria restaurant is changing but new master chef will doubtless bring a new selection of grandhoteleurope.com. €€€. don’t worry, they will still be serving delicious meals and succulent delicacies to one of St. Petersburg’s finest Ital- the superb panoramic view will be as good as ever. The ian restaurants. Labio was born in Turin in northern Italy restaurant, which offers luxurious Russian dishes, is located where he made a modest start to his professional career, on the sixth floor of the hotel, providing you with a great helping his parents in their family restaurant. At univer- view of Nevsky prospect and the Moika canal. The restau- sity he worked in a number of restaurants before being rant is notable for providing you not only with a succulent invited overseas. Labio has been living in St. Petersburg If you want to have the full royal tea experience, the Four meal but also the history of every dish. So what’s changed? since 2006. His favourite meal is spaghetti and mussels Seasons Lion Palace turns this Russian tradition into an From April the Victoria will be a la carte. The famous busi- - his favourite meal when holidaying with his family on art form with delicious accompaniments fit for the tsar’s ness lunch will still be available from 12:00 to 16:00.QD-3, the Mediterranean coast.QD-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. table, offering caviar pancakes, and a range of other deli- Taleon Imperial Hotel, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteis- Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 cacies to set your taste buds tingling. Located just down kaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel. 51 15, www.angleterrehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. the road from St. Isaac’s Cathedral, the Four Seasons is com. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€€. €€€.

Radisson Royal goes Maharaja? In a mouth-watering stroke of genius until April 10 on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, the Radisson Royal is offering an Indian Buffet. For a mere 650Rbl the Radisson provides mains, a salad, a dessert and an Indian lemonade. The menu at the buffet changes each week and is an exciting opportunity to taste a little bit of India in central St. Petersburg - and perhaps try a new dish or two.QE-3, Radisson Royal Hotel, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MV- ladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/ hotel-stpetersburg. €€. The Bavarian menu Park Inn’s Paulaner restaurant is taking taste global with a new menu which will be taken up by Paulaners around the world. The Bavarian menu has been devel- oped by Germany’s most talented chef’s and is good news for anyone who has fallen in love with the taste of Bavaria. The global menu means you will be able to enjoy your favourite Paulaner dish at any Park Inn around the world. Of course, its bad luck if you have a passion for French or Italian cooking, but when it comes to the Paulaner, there is no disputing tastes, it’s going to be good regardless of culinary preferences.QPark Inn Pulkovskaya, Pl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 39 32, www.paulaner-brauhaus.com/ stpetersburg. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. 38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 39 BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. AKADEMIKA PAVLOVA UL. 1 59 KANTEMIROVSKAYA UL. KANTEMIROVSKY 55 ALEXANDRA MATROSOVA UL. MALOY NEVKI NAB. MOST 51 LITOVSKAYA UL.

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RYUKHINA UL. RYUKHINA GRENADERSKAYA UL. MORSKOY PR. 29 METALLISTOV PR. KRESTOVSKY 24 2 OSTROV 4 BOLSHOY SAMPSONIEVSKY PR. BATAREINAYA DOROGA 30 PETROGRADSKAYA UL. PETROGRADSKAYA NEISHLOTSKY PER. DINAMO PR. BOLSHAYA NEVKA RIVER RIVER 40 LEVASHOVSKY PR. PL. LVA FOKINA UL. KRESTOVSKY PR. SPORTIVNAYA UL. PIROGOVSKAYA NAB. PISKARYOVSKY PR. TOLSTOGO LVA TOLSTOGO UL. 21 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. 33 LEVASHOVSKY PR. CHKALOVSKY PR. KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PR. ZHUKOVA UL. 44 24 PETROGRADSKAYA NAB. . 40 VYBORGSKAYA UL. MINERALNAYA UL. 8 B MALY PR. 84 25 NA KOTOVSKOGOCHAPAEVA UL. A 65 Y NEVKAV 14 LENINA UL. RENTGENA UL. LESNOY PR. UZHNA E 23 YA DOR AR BOL. ZELENINA UL. YUZHNAYA DOROGA OGA Z 26 LA 30 MALAYA RALA 28 GATCHINSKAYA UL. ADMI 48 BOL. MONETNAYA UL. SMIRNOVA UL. 22 ORANIENBAUMSKAYA UL. 13 BOLSHOY PR. KRONVERKSKAYA UL. 15 VATUTINA UL. L. PEVCHESKY PER. . MIRA UL. CHAPAEVA UL. 13 U L 22 PIONERSKAYA UL. 30 U A KORPUSNAYA UL. 23 A AVSTRI- AY Y 8 K CHKALOVSKAYA A SKAYA PL. S SK H 30 R 16 16 24 Z A 11 6 BOTKINSKAYA UL. O 11 K SAMPSONIEVSKY KONDRATYEVSKY PR. SHSABLINSKAYA UL. 1 7 14 SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.FEODOSISKAYA UL. D 35 KRASNOGO KURSANTA UL. U MOST 34 A . P L 33 L VOSKOVA UL. O M A FINLYANDSKY PR. V ARSENALNAYA UL. NEVA PETROVSKAYA KOSA M 35 25 2 O 2 MALY PR. 4 GARDEN N A NVERKSKY PR. PIONERSKAYA UL. R KRO 15 MICHURINSKAYA UL. 4 5 ZHDANOVSKAYA21 UL. CHKALOVSKY PR. BOL. PUSHKARSKAYA UL.K KLINICHESKAYA UL. NEVA RIVER REVOLYUTSII SHOSSE 25 VVEDENSKAYAI NUL. A 1 26 U KUYBYSHEVA UL. L GORKOVSKAYA 7 1 50 14 . 2 4

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SPORTIVNAYA 23 R TROITSKY STAVROPOLSKAYA UL. K ROBESPYERA NAB. 37 . B MOST 38 10 2 26 3 A 12 50 1 N LITEINY PR. A 48 ZHELEZNOVODSKAYA UL. Y 34 31 23 A KUTUZOVA NAB. SHPALERNAYA UL. 41 SHPALERNAYA UL. TUCHKOV K PETER AND PAUL 2 43 55 22 S MOST N FORTRESS 49 PASSENGER PORT 5 GO PER. MAKAROVA NAB. I ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL. TAVRICHESKAYA UL. SKO 1 N 2 1 ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL. “MORSKOY FASAD” OV 2 YT Nevsky prospect 12 Nevsky prospect25 74 KH M 6 9 A . 3 CHAIKOVSKOGO U K UL 2 St. Petersburg’s central street and runs for 4.5 kiklome- 3 Palace Square: A large square in front of the Hermitage. 9 Kazan Cathedral:L .Modelled on St Paul’s Cathedral 14 Alexandrinsky Theatre: The neo-classical theatre was 34 6 YA 6 tres. It is full of historic buildings and monuments and It is the site of numerous historical events including Bloody in Rome the KazanGAGARINSKAYA UL. Cathedral was built in 1801-11. The opened in 1832CHAIKOVSKOGO and is one of the UL. best theatres in the coun- TVERSKAYA UL. 5 A MOKHOVAYA UL. 21 KAVALERGARDSKAYA UL. K SOLYANOY PER. 6 3 LEBYAZHEY KANAVKI NAB. 59 DS 22 is a centre for the cultural life of the city. Initially estab- Sunday in 1905 and the 1917 revolution. The central feature FONTANKA RIVER dome is 80 metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky try. It offers a range of classical83 and contemporary perfor- O 21 LENKY R 2 - 3-YA LINIYA BIRZHEVOY 31 42 O . 29 ZH V 2 1 EK B 79 lished in the 1710s under Peter the Great it was known of the square is Alexander’s Column, which is 47.5 metres LETNY prospect has 96 columns. The two statues outside depict mances. In front of the theatre is a statue of Catherine the ELEZN O SM Y NA TUCHKOV PER. MOST FURSHTATSKAYA UL. 2 12 45 as the Road to Nevsky Monastery. Going through several high and weighs 500 tonnes. It was installed in 1830-34. SAD heroes of the War of 1812 Barclay de Tolley and Mikhail Great whichPR. CHERNYSHEVSKOGO FURSHTATSKAYA was installed in 1873. UL. TAVRICHESKY 3 30 4 - 5-YA LINIYA 14 BIRZHEVAYA LINIYA 7 12 4 4 MAKAROVA NAB. A SAD name changes it finally became Nevsky prospect in 1781. P Kutuzov. 2 49 49 43 T

NALICHNAYA UL. KIMA PR. 8 NEVA RIVER4 E 20 15 30 The Soviets were unable to refrain from renaming it and Admiralty spire: Located as part of the building of the Theatre of Comedy: This largeUL. POTYOMKINSKAYA and impressive UL. ODESSKAYA 4 2 K MARSOVO UL. DIKTATURI PROLETARSKOY 6 - 7-YA LINIYA 7 4 A 48 1 51 29 16 20 CHERNYSHEVSKAYA R 10 NOVOSMOLENSKAYA NAB. MALY PR. named it after the Prolekult artistic organisation before Russian Admiralty (1718-1917)S the spirePOLE intersects three 10 Dom knigi (Book house): One of St. Petersburg’s building merges the neo-classical with elements of SMOLNY PR. MENDELEEVSKAYA LINIYA K KIROCHNAYA UL. T ODOEVSKOGO UL. 41 DVORTSOVAYA NAB. SMOLNAYANAB. 26 BIRZHEVAYAchanging it to Prospekt of the 25th of October in honour main St. Petersburg streets.Y The gilt spire is 73 metres high. best bookshops. The building was designed for the Rus- art-nouveau. It was constructed in 1904 and rented to 1 U 22 KADETSKAYA LINIYA – 1-YA LINIYA P PL. 7 E PREOBRAZH. PARADNAYA UL. L 8 - 9-YA LINIYA VOY PRO 39 S PRIMORSKAYA E EZ of the 1917 revolution. The street came under artillery28 at- MOSHKOV R sian branch of the Singer Sewing Machine Company. The various theatrical troupes. Since 1929 the theatre has41 K ZH D HERMITAGE RIVER . PL. A

NOVOSMOLENSKAYA NAB. R NAB. SVERDLOVSKAYA I tack during the Blockade of Leningrad and you can still 5 Dutch Reformed Church: The church was construct- art nouveau building was constructed in 24 1902-04. Follow- specialised in satire and comedy. The troupe continued 43 Y 18 B PESTELYA UL. RYLEEVA UL. A 59 2 - 3 MILLIONNAYAPER. UL. FONTANKY REKY NAB. 15 UL. see damage on some of the buildings, plaques and the 27 ed in 1834-9 and is evidence4 of the long standing connec- ing the revolution the building became the offices for the performances during the Blockade of Leningrad (in a 11 SREDNY PR. 5 DVORTSOVY ARTILLERIS- 63 YAKORNAYA UL. - occasional bouquet. The avenue is used for most signifi- tion between the Netherlands and Russia. Shut down in Petrograd State Publishing House which in 1938 became different location). The theatre continues to bring4 in 2 27 38 4 - 5 YA LINIYA MOST MOIKA KAYA UL. 13 35 20 UL. VOSSTANIYA KIROCHNAYA 23 49 10 - 11-YA LINIYA cant celebrations. 1926, it now houses a number of cultural organisations. Dom knigi. regular crowds to this day. BOLSHEOHTINSKY

30

50 1 -YA LINIYA SAPYORNY PER. BERINGA UL. 17 6 MOST PR. NOVOCHERKASSKY 23 3 UL. RADISHCHEVA 62 KUNSTKAMERA 18 45 12 - 13-YA LINIYA 22 KORABLESTROITELEY UL. VASILEOSTROVSKAYA 35 6 - 7 VILENSKY PER. 61 P 24 SUVOROVSKY53 PR. ER SEA PASSENGER 8 - 9 3 Y . UL. 14 - 15-YA LINIYA 51 - 2 MENSHIKOV YA LINIYA 13 2 UL. KOROLENKO BASKOV PER. N TERMINAL 59 32 49 R 35 PALACE 39 A - 31 MOKHOVAYAUL. Y YA LINIYA DVORTSOVAYA NEKRASOVA UL. T 2 - 3 11 2 3 G 8 PL. 2 9-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. E

16 - 17-YA LINIYA 28 10 VOLYNSKY PER. 33 D 17 -YA LINIYA 2 8 18 76

BELINSKOGOBELINSKOGO UL. 10-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 6

20

20 18 - 19-YA LINIYA . 1 11 MOISEENKO UL. 6 . PL. B KRASNOGOTEKSTILSHCHIKA UL.

SHEVCHENKO UL. 60 4 3 UL KOVENSKY PER. 8-YA SOVETSKAYA5 UL. 17 62 A A 21 27 39

71 31 4 AY 43 N 8

24 24 55 ISKUSSTV INZ RN

H E 54 70 2 E N Y 16 24

33 NEVSKY PR. NAB. KAN. GRIBOEDOVA 25 ITALYANSKAYAPL. 12 UL. UL. MAYAKOVSKOGO 32

20 BOL.KONYUSHENNAYA UL. K 26

5 14 5 E UL. CHEKHOVA

15 MALY PR. 20 MANEZHNAYA R

UNIVERSITETSKAYA NAB. 7-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 11 BOLSHOY PR. UL. KONYUSHENNAYA MAL. 10 PL. ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.

Y 17 NALICHNY PER. 23 ADMIRALTEISKAYA NAB. ITALYANSKAYA UL. RADISHCHEVA UL. 18 NOVGORODSKAYA UL.

6 K 30 15 KAZANSKAYA 1 22 19 7 14 47 1 SHOPPING N VOZNESENSKY PR. PL.

24 - 25-YA LINIYA 34 CENTER A 20 - 21 NEVSKY PR. UL. 36 11 16 NAKHIMOVA UL. T 76 25 ADMIRALTEISKY PR. ADMIRALTEISKAYA PASSAGE SA- SKAYA UL. 18 70 SREDNY PR. 8 N 4-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 69 20 BLAGOVESHCHENSKY MIKHAILOV- 2 8 6 . SADOVAYA UL. 13 44 O GRECHESKY PR. KIRILLOVSKAYA UL. 29 3 50 MOST B 13 F MAL. 12 SINOPSKAYA NAB. 22 - 23 - A NEVSKY PR. 9 80 YA LINIYA MAL. MORSKAYA UL. 9 SUVOROVSKY PR. 14 N DOVAYA 3-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 55 15 60 LIGOVSKY PR. MALOOKHTINSKAYA NAB.

Y 4 17 65 UL. VOSSTANIYA KARAVANNAYA UL.

11 64 16 - 1744 K 1 8 GALERNAYA UL. E LITEINYPR. -YA LINIYA GOROKHOVAYA UL. ANICHKOV 2-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 12 POCHTAMTSKY PER. R GOSTINY DVOR SHOPPING MALO- 1 Y 39 MOST KLUBNY PER. K 43 94 CENTER 1 OHTINSKY - LEITENANTA SHMIDTA NAB. 30 BOL. MORSKAYA UL. I OSTROVSKOGO 16 96 NEVSKY 18 - 19- YA LINIYA O SHOPPING 47 STARORUSSKAYA UL. PARK 10

23 PL. CENTER . M CENTER 49 DEGTYARNAYA UL. 34 ISAAKIEVSKAYA 14 L 1 54 25 GOSTINY 5

. 4 7 DUMSKAYA UL. VOSSTANIYA U L ANGLISKAYA NAB.

U 27 PL. RIVER DVOR 33 6 A 40 10 MAYAKOVSKAYA PL. K 28 10 MYTNINSKAYA UL. STREMYANNAYA UL. Y TO SOBCHAKA YA LINIYA UL. 58 81 17

A 35 5 O -YA LINIYA 73 62 KONNOGVARDEISKY BUL. MOIKA GRAFSKY PER. 128 88 PL. BOLSHAYA NEVA RIVER ANTONENKO PER. KAZANSKAYA UL. 43 NALICHNAYA UL. R K P 20 - 21-YA LINIYA TRUDA LOMONOSOVA UL. 29 32 13 SKY SHEVCHENKO UL. 64 2 S IPER PL. BANKOVSKY 21 3 2 PL. VOSSTANIYA 140 K 19 M SH KRYUKOVA KAN. NAB. 11 17 . GRIVTSOVA PER. GRIBOEDOVA KAN. GONCHARNAYA UL. O 22 - 23-YA LINIYA B 41 18 BAKUNINA PR. 26 - 27-YA LINIYA 1 6 11 16 KHERSONSKAYA UL.K BOLSHOY PR. 74 A BOL. MORSKAYASt. Isaacs UL. Cathedral: Built from 1818 to 1858 and cost StroganovMUCHNOY Palace: PER.PER. built in the late baroque style in Gostiny dvor:50 One of the oldest shopping malls in the Anichkov Bridge: Famous for its four horses, it was 7 24 6 PER. N POCHTAMTSKAYA 2 L . TRUDA UL. PER. MALOOKHTINSKY PR. N 13 O more than the74 purchase price of Alaska. The cathedral’s 1753-4, the interiors were remodelledSADOVAYA in the UL. 19th century. 4 world, gostiny dvor is worth a visit. Full of boutique shops, built in 1841-42, with the statues added in 1849-50. In 3 KONNAYA4 UL. 13 GALERNAYA UL.A 27 FONTANKA RIVER VLADIMIRSKYPR.

24 - 25-YA LINIYA K 5 DMITROVSKY P POVARSKOY Y 80 . 148 S NSK T dome is 101 metres high. During the Soviet period the The Soviets turned it into a museum of aristocratic life. It is 55 it has been reconstructed several times since the original 1941 when the bridge sustained heavy bombardment, the 8 I O L FONARNY PER. 29 KOLOKOLNAYA 15 S D A ZOD. ROSSI UL. R EZ IR cathedral was turned into the Museum of the History of still used as a museum. buildingSHCHERBA- in the 18th century but still retains its neo-classical horses were buried in the garden of Anichkov15 Palace. E O SPASSKY PER. 57 152 H R M LOMONOSOVA KOV PER. UL. K P 2 9 85 D Religion and Atheism and Faucault’s Pendulum was hung appearance. 4 STAKHANOVTSEV8 UL. 39 14 100 A 94 PL. DOSTOEVSKAYA PUSHKINSKAYA UL. 31 7 SREDNY PR. as evidence that the Earth rotates around the Sun and 7 St. Catherine’s43 Basilica: ThisAPRAKSIN is the PER. oldest Catholic 17 Ploschad Vostaniya (Uprising Square): was origi- 117 LOMONOSOVA UL. RUBINSHTEINA UL. ZANEVSKY PR. GOROKHOVAYA UL. 12 KUZNECHNY PER. 170 MO therefore that God couldKAZANSKAYA not exist.STOLYARNY You UL. canPER. visit both the church in Russia. The church was completed in 1783 with59 a 7 Arts square: 25is a monument to pre-Soviet centralisa- nally named after a nearby church which was pulled down 1 49 IK POLTAVSKAYA UL.TELEZHNAYA UL.NEVSKY PR. 41 KOSAYA LINIYA Y 82 114 RE cathedral and the columns (a separate ticket) which give dome that is 42 metres high. The church was run by various tion. The square gives your access to The Russian Museum, and replaced67 with the Oktyabrskaya Hotel. The square’s 7 172 KY 38 40 VLADIMIRSKAYA 16 SREDNEGAVANSKY PR. N 21 13 147 AB. you89 wonderful views of the city. monastic orders over its history. It was closed and ransacked 74 the Ethnographic Museum, the Maly Opera and Ballet The- 15new name celebrates the revolution. In 1985 an obelisk 12 MASLYANOGO KAN. 5

104 DEKABRISTOV UL. GRAZHDA NSKAYA UL. SADOVAYAin 1938. The church returned to active service in 2003. atre, the Large Concert Hall of the St. Petersburg Philhar- was placed in the30 SHOPPING centre of the square to celebrate the 40thMIRGORODSKAYA UL. 151 180 PODYACHESKAYA 53 DZHAMBULA PER. KHARKOVSKAYA16 UL. 29 124 MARIINSKY UL. SREDNYAYA 77 13 18 2 DETSKAYA UL. 2 Hermitage: The Hermitage was the Winter Palace of the SENNAYA PL. monic. A number of restaurants and cafes are also located anniversary of theCENTER end of World War II. The square is a vital 182 86 THEATRE BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL. BORODINSKAYA UL. RAZYEZZHAYA UL. AL.NEVSKOGO UL. ALEXANDRA PISAREVA UL. 71 GALERIA 3 ANGLISKY PR. TEATRALNAYA Russian tsars and is now one of Russia’s leading museums. It’s 8 Armenian Church: This church79 was financed by the around the square. SVECHNOY. transport hub with the Moscow Railway Station, a metro 169 PER. 20 NEVSKOGO SENNAYA PL. 1 EFIMOVA UL. L PL. LIGOVSKY PR. U MOST collection includes works from pretty much all of the leading wealthy Armenian businessman Ioakhim Lazarev. This station and a bus station all adjoining it. PL. ALEXANDRA MOSKOVSKY PR. 5 MATVEEVA 29 74 MARATA UL. SEMYONOVSKAYA 4 99 100 western European painters, including a fine 19th and 20th small, elegant church was built in 1771-6. In 1930 the 13 City Duma Tower: Initially established under Cath- NEVSKOGO MINSKY 3 30 PL. 13 O PER. GLINKY UL. 2 century French collection. The Winter Palace as we see it to- church was closed and91 the original interiors and icon- erine1 the Great in 1785 the initial building Gwas constructed NAB. PER. 7 31 3 115 day was largely constructed under Catherine the Great in the ostasis lost. During World War II it was used as the head in 1784-7. The tower you see today wasO built in 1847-52 With89 Peter the Great still alive Nevsky was

50 K 13 98

KRYUKOVA KAN. NAB. ZAGORODNY PR. SOTSIALISTICHESKAYA UL. S 41 BOL. V known as the Big Prospekt mid to late 18th century. The building was stormed by the quarters for anti-aircraft defence. It was returned to the in the neo-Renaissance style. After the revolution the city KREMENCHUKSKAYA UL. SADOVAYA UL. 44 E O PUSHKINSKAYA UL.

DEKABRISTOV UL. Bolsheviks during the November Revolution of 1917. Church in 1990. government moved to Smolny. T 19 51 S

9 KAZACHY PER. 37 O 5 18 7 40 St. Petersburg In YourVOZNESENSKY PR. Pocket 109 st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket9 D April - May 2014 41 KO 1 PER. BOITSOVA FONTANKY REKY104 NAB. ZHE A VENNAYA LINIY 60 ZVENIGORODSKAYA 1 V 105 2 9 SOYUZA PECHATNIKOV UL. NIKOLSKAYA V PRAVDY UL. 60 DROVANOY PER. E PL. D E ZVENIGORODSKAYA UL. TRANSPORTNY PER. 115 N V.ERMAKA UL. NIKOLSKY PER. 110 S K PUSHKINSKAYA 3 ANGLISKY PR. OVA KA O KOLOMENSKAYA UL. LIGOVSKY PR. OED N. N G PIONERSKAYA ALEXANDER NEVSKY RIMSKOGO–KORSAKOVARIB 134 PR. AB 62 MOSKOVSKY PR. O CATHEDRAL

G . PL. 102 K 25 A 13 MYASNAYA UL. LERMONTOVSKY PR. N 84 BOROVAYA UL. 11 PER. MAKARENKO 129 FONTANKA RIVER A 18 ROMENSKAYA UL. 116 L OBUKHOVSKOY OBORONY PR. PRYAZHKI REKY NAB. DERZHAVINSKY PER. A 112 156 U L PODYEZDNOY PER. 19 135 . 121 LOTSMANSKAYA UL. KANONERSKAYA UL. OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB. VITEBS KAYA UL. VEREISKAYA UL. MARATA UL. 26 6 4 KLIMOV PER. PODOLSKAYA UL. PSKOVS KAYA UL.GRIBOEDOVA KAN. 49 27 21

19 LIGOVSKY PR. 2 ZAGORODNY PR. 126 LABUTINA UL. RUZOVSKAYA UL. PAVLOGRADSKIY 5 132 32 143 ATAMANSKAYA UL. 178 29 FONTANKY REKY NAB. 1 TYUSHINA UL. PER. SADOVAYA UL. TEKHNOLOGICHESKYSERPUKHOVSKAYA UL. LUBLINSKYPER. 15 INSTITUT 6 31 OBVODNY KANAL MOZHAISKAYA UL. 91 FONTANKA RIVER LERMONTOVSKY PR. 1-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. BRONNITSKAYA UL. KONSTANTINA89 ZASLONOVA83 UL. TROITSKY PR. IZMAILOVSKY PR. KLINSKY PR. 20 2 145 39 DROVYANAYA UL. SOVETSKY PER. 38 OBVODNOGO KAN.NAB. 156 2-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA1 UL.

144 CHERNYAKHOVSKOGOUL. T 13-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 17 75 S 43 BATAISKY PER. I 30 O 3-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. 166 L 99 K 8-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL.2 MOSKOVSKY PR. 49 O 4-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. V 1 S 9-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. K RIZHSKY PR. O 5-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. G OBVODNY KANAL 40 O 10-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 52 U 6-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYAEGOROVA UL. UL. MALODETSKOSELSKY PR. L RYBINSKAYA UL. . 30 2 GLUHOOZERSKOE SHOSSE 119

KURLYANDSKAYA UL. NEFTYANAYA DOROGA 57

54 BOROVAYA UL. 7 54 30 KURSKAYA UL.

57 OBVODNY KANAL STAROPETERGOFSKY PR. STEPANA RAZINA UL. 171 149 129 189 175 VORONEZHSKAYA UL. 209 PRILUKSKAYA UL. 227 OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB.

DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. OBVODNY KANAL TAMBOVSKAYA UL. RASSTANNAYA UL.

BALTISKAYA FRUNZENSKAYA

B. Y REKY NA OIK M Nightlife Nightlife The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink Cafe-Bar Produkty Bristol Pub and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls, Produkty’s owner apparently was inspired by those quirky Bristol is a quiet, respectable pub; a thick rug on the floor, groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene. little hole-in-the-wall sized bars that make the Berlin leather-upholstered sofas and velvet armchairs - every- On a night out in this wild town, you’ll find unique perfor- nightlife scene so legendary and in terms of both design thing here’s cosy and snug. Black-and-white photographs mances and eccentric people everywhere! and vibe – the inspiration really shows. Produkty rocks of the 20s and 30s create the atmosphere of the England of its retro 1960s reclaimed furniture so well, that even the the time. Bristol is just as suited to business lunch among guests in their boho beards and fake spectacles, look like colleagues as to a celebration in high-spirited company. Artsy and Underground they also were brought in as part of the decoration. The Don’t expect anything out of the ordinary from the cook- Belochka & Mielofon music is of course old-school jukebox and retro favourites ing - everything’s simply done, but very tasty. The menu is As tricky to find as all St. Petersburg’s underground bars tend or new wave and post-rock synth-pop, while for drinks its a combination of European and Russian dishes as well as to be, head down Bankovsky pereulok and turn into the dark cocktails which take forever to construct or bottles of beer. a large assortment of beers and other kinds of alcoholic side street at house 3, turn right and go up to the end of the QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 17, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) beverage.QE-3, Ul. Marata 36/38, MVladimirskaya, tel. even darker and creepy looking yard and listen out for the 812 312 57 54. Open 14:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00, (+7) 812 713 24 42, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 01:00, music coming from a basement. Down in the tartan wallpa- Sun 14:00 - 02:00. PAEW Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PASW pered basement you’ll find two rooms, one a beer hall style area for drinking and chatting and the other a louder dance Dead Poets floor area with the obligatory table-football installed. QD- This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a 2, Bankovsky per. 3, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 212 85 06. Bars and Pubs more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the Open 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. PEW BARSLONA discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the eve- This Spanish bar and restaurant has that sunny and friendly ning sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or back- Borodabar Spanish feel, but surprisingly enough is completely run by gammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey Despite its diminutive size the atmospheric Boroda (beard) bar Russians – my, what a difference a smile can make! As you is impressive and provided with a delicious range of snacks. still packs in the people and is bursting with the kind of atmo- would expect from a football mad country, match days have The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau sphere that wouldn’t be amiss in Berlin or Budapest. The home- a really great atmosphere here. Their sangria comes in huge interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. made interior reflects the eclectic mix of clientele with indus- jugs and has plenty of ice and is understandably popular on (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00 - 01:00, trial breeze blocks and exposed piping, graffiti by tattoo artists hot days. The tapas is tiny but tasty and the Spanish mains Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. €€. PAW and reclaimed items of cheap furniture. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. are filling and flavoursome. QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 26, 11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 923 89 40, www.borodabar. MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 900 01 12, www.barslona. Helsinki Bar ru. Open 17:00 until last guest. ESW ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PASW This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of the late 70s. Well, that’s the case if you were Finnish and your par- ents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew liquor. ing there’s space now for live Celtic folk bands who drum Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage Finnish up a jolly atmosphere and draw the big crowds on Friday magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester style and a and Saturday evenings.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 5, cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the menu is no less MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 51 71, www.molly.su. a mixture of swank and substance. We recommend coming Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAESW with friends and getting a smattering of the well-priced and gracefully presented starters to share over above-rate lager Molly Island and the aforementioned in-house flavoured vodka.QC-2, Located on Vasilyevsky Island, this little Irish Pub is the place Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 to go after a day in the Lenexpo Exhibition Centre or if you 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, are staying in the nearby Hotel Pribaltiskaya. The cosy interior, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW friendly staff and a vibrant mix of locals and foreigners as well as a wide selection of beer, whiskey and food, make it the per- Mollie’s Irish Pub fect place to meet up with friends or watch a game of football, St. Petersburg’s first Irish pub, located just off Nevsky, offers if you don´t feel like travelling all the way to the centre.QB-1, just what you would expect from a bar like this. Mollie’s serves Morskaya nab. 15, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 438 13 03, up a wide range of beers, good food and music (although it www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW might be a bit loud for an intimate conversation). Russians hang out here, mixed with expats and the occasional tourist. Molly Shelter QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 36, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Shelter is the right word for this snug little basement Irish 570 37 68, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 Pub - its low vaulted brick ceilings and inviting booths - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. PASW tucked away in various little nooks and crannies act as a cocoon to the outside world and call out at you to settle Mollie’s Mews in, relax and take shelter. The basement’s careful restoration A newly hewn branch of the popular Mollies pub. The gives the pub a very authentic look and the various bits of Mews lacks the old-fashioned battered and bruised bar antique pub clutter look well at home amongst chess play- clutter which has been worn-in over 15 year at the origi- ing punters and sports fans. They have good stouts and nal pub on ulitsa Rubinshteina. What they are missing ales on draught as well as the atypical Guinness.QD-3, in history they make up for in space however. Mollie’s Italyanskaya ul. 29, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 47 54, Mews is much bigger than its legendary parent, mean- www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PAESW 42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 43 Nightlife Nightlife Telegraph This stylish British pub, situated in a cosy cellar not far from Nevsky Prospekt, is an easy meeting place for beer lovers, which is why it can be enjoyably crowded here. Another plus is the big screen for live football and other sports matches. In some ways it is a bit of a lonely old man’s pub where you can find dozens of single men who’ve got no one to cook for them having a plate of bangers and mash on their lone- some.QE-3, Ul. Rubinshteina 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 327 74 79, www.pub-telegraph.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PALESW

The Office Pub This elegant Irish pub not far from Kazan Cathedral at- tracts locals, expats and tourists who mingle over shots and beers. They have a wide selection of beer on draught including Guinness, Belgian cherry beer and just about ev- erything in between. It’s one of those offices where you don’t mind staying late, but doing overtime definitely has the opposite effect on your wallet.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 54 28, www.molly.su. Open 12:00 - 02:00. PASW

Clubs Barrel This slick black and neon looking place has got a bit of an attitude to it - one that says dress rich and spend money. There’s an elaborate menu done up like a glossy magazine offering a bit of everything, but primarily this is a place to sit in your fox fur stole with a martini and look down at the mood, playing subtle electro tracks on quieter nights and fellow wannabe VIPs in attendance - until it’s pole dancing amping it up for the more boisterous weekends. QE-3, time, of course.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 5, MNevsky pr., Razyezzhaya ul. 12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 tel. (+7) 812 929 82 98, www.project-barrel.ru. Open 55 99, www.dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 until last guest, Fri 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 12:00 - 07:00. PTAESW 06:00. PAESW Mishka Dacha Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking This place gets really crowded during the weekend but husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with then it also tends to be more fun. The later the hour the pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized crazier the atmosphere with people dancing up a huge glasses and handmade accessories. They’re smoking sweat in this tiny pocket of a place. Don’t dress too fancy if Belomorkanals ironically and tapping their feet to the DJ you’re coming here for the night, you’re likely to get beer who’s sharing space with the friendly bartenders. As a spilt on you and the place is smokier than a cuban ware- bonus, the toilet rules are interestingly translated - who house. Despite the mess the friendly and energetic atmo- flushes their wallet down the bowl?QE-3, Nab. reky sphere of Dacha is addictive. During the day they have a Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr., tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, few tables outside and the same quality taste in music www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - which is complimented by sandwiches, homemade lem- 06:00. PAEW onade and free wifi.QD-3, Dumskaya ul. 9, MNevsky pr. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW Radiobaby With its high ceilings and groovy modern décor, Radiobaby Dom Byta has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when this chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can rock, bar was named after the type of storefronts that offer drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse mix everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local favorites interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished gold wall hang- who know how to keep the energy up. The no house, no ings and a long turquoise bar. Nice touches like vintage techno rule is in effect. Entrance is through the archway and glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impec- to the left.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www. cable taste in kitsch and the DJs are no less sensitive to the radiobaby.com. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW 44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 45 What to see What to see pological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix of CITY CARD random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peter’s Anatomical Collection with Where ever you see this logo its severed hands and malformed babies in jars still draws Y, it means you can get a the crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiral- discount or a free entrance teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera. at this venue with the Peter- ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the sburg card. month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Petersburg Card provides tourists with free entrance and discounts to many things this city has to offer, including Peter and Paul Fortress museums, some restaurants, hotels, and shops (the full The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St. Petersburg’s first list can be found on the website and in the guidebook settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous (in English and Russian) which comes with the card). It’s Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along with also a ‘Podorozhnik’ travel card with 4 free journeys (mo- St. Petersburg’s World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of the Church of the Saviour on the Spilt numerous museums, galleries and spectacular river-side ney can be added later on as well), which is valid for 3 most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europe’s greatest Blood views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandant’s years! www.petersburgcard.com architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet times. This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion House museum which examines the history of the city and They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosi- domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva Curtain ties outside town though. The city has an enormous amount St. Petersburg, but it’s one of the city’s most beautiful and Wall which studies the history of the Fortress itself. How- Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because ever, the more unusual Engineer’s House and Museum of Wed of the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the beautiful and steeped in fascinating history. it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was mur- Space Exploration are really very quirky and good. The colonnade are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 dered in 1881. Locals call it ‘the mosaic church’ because Mint displays coin collections and the Printing Workshop - 250Rbl. Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl. Y the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the Neva Cur- The Essentials wall with a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in tain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a dip in the Summer Garden Aleksander Nevsky Monastery the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD- bracing waters… at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovs- Tsar Peter the Great created the Summer Garden, sur- Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710, this orthodox mon- 2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) kaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, rounded by beautiful iron fences, in 1704. Most of the trees astery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St. 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. and all 250 statues were imported from Italy. For a century, Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery, Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Y All details about museums and cathedral open hours it was the exclusive domain of people of the highest rank. where you can visit the graves of Russia’s greatest com- on the website. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive Tsar Nicholas I opened it up to ‘well-dressed people,’ but posers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky, Cruiser Avrora ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). these days they don’t care what you wear. These statues Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in The battle ship, anchored off the banks of Petrograd Side, has have seen it all. There’s a display of twelve funky hand- the monastery’s bakery in the afternoon (on your left as become somewhat of a Soviet shrine. This is because blank Russian Museum turned iron chairs positioned in a circle, each one made you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF- shots fired from the Aurora are said to have been the trigger A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the by different blacksmiths.QD-2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, for the revolution of 1917. The ship was sunk during WWII, to cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is 812 314 03 74, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily protect it from German bombing, and, in 1958, it was made housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze Closed Tue. Admission free. 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. into a museum. It is operated by the Central Naval Museum. of beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky After the collapse of the Soviet Union, mysterious rumours Palace is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured BRIDGES have been spreading that it is, in fact, a replica. But who genre. It is widely acclaimed for containing the most out- knows? Why not find out for yourself!QE-1, PS, Petrograd- standing collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Bridges going up… skaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open Wing has an especially strong display of work from the 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Y turn of the twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance Dvortsovy 01:05 - 04:50 to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Blagoveshchensky 01:25 - 02:45 03:10 - 05:00 Kazan Cathedral Castle which host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhen- Sampsonievsky 02:10 - 02:45 03:30 - 05:00 This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peter’s in Rome, is ernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www. one of the city’s most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811 rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Grenadersky 02:45 - 03:45 04:20 - 04:50 to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. Kantemirovsky 02:45 - 03:45 04:20 - 04:50 dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. Troitsky 01:35 - 04:50 has 96 columns. Be warned, it’s a quiet place and they don’t like you to talk a lot in here, it’s place of prayer and contem- St. Isaac’s Cathedral Liteiny 01:40 - 04:45 plation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaac’s is one of the Birzhevoy 02:00 - 04:55 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 world’s largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. adorned with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed Tutchkov 02:00 - 02:55 03:35 - 04:55 by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and Bolsheokhtinsky 02:00 - 05:00 Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum 1858 the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great Take note that most museum ticket offices Volodarsky 02:00 - 03:45 04:15 - 05:45 of Anthropology and Ethnography) who was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a close one hour before the official closing time. St. Petersburg’s oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunst- clear day we recommend climbing to the dome’s top; the Also remember most museums ask you to buy Alexandra Nevskogo 02:20 - 05:10 kamera (which translates as art house) was founded by Pe- panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaa- an extra photography ticket if you would like Finlyandsky 02:20 - 05:30 ter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the Great kievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 to take photos or videos Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has anthro- 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. 46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 47 What to see What to see Hermitage Churches Museums Russian Vodka Museum St. Petersburg is home to many different churches and mon- St. Petersburg has been described as a ‘living museum un- The director of the Hermitage once said, “I can’t say that asteries, all with beautiful architecture. Of course there is St. der the open skies’, and for good reason! There is something Vodka Museum the Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, Isaac’s Cathedral, which is the largest Russian Orthodox Ca- for everyone, from the world famous Hermitage art gallery, This small museum pres- but it’s certainly not the second.” And with over three thedral in the city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals to museums about the city’s famous writers, including ents the long history of million works of art and treasures housed in five con- in the world. It houses a museum, and it is possible to walk Dostoevsky, as well as museums dedicated to vodka (of Russia’s national drink, nected buildings along the Neva, the museum can’t fail up to the colonnade for fantastic views of the city. The dis- course!), chocolate, and bread! You can also see castles and from 12th Century peasants to impress. Give yourself plenty of time and try to go tinctive Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer palaces, such as the Mikhailovsky Castle, and the Menshi- through to 20th Century on a weekday to avoid the crowds or even take a virtual consecrated, but is now a museum of mosaics. The unique kov Palace, as well as the Peter and Paul Fortress, which is presidents. Display cases tour. Four hours is probably an absolute minimum of Kazan Cathedral dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troit- now The State Museum of History of St Petersburg. Also, full of vodka bottles in un- time to spend there if you want to see the main state sky Cathedral with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka for one night every year in May, all of the museums in the usual shapes, old advertis- rooms and some of the most popular artworks. Canal. These buildings give a great insight into Russia’s past. city open their doors until the early hours for the Night of ing campaigns and some the Museums, which is very popular with tourists and locals funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian fire- The museum’s art collection covers all of the great- Smolny Cathedral alike! water. An excursion is recommended as the exhibits are est European movements. Lovers of the renaissance QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 in Russian only. In the tasting room, there’s also a chance shouldn’t miss the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelange- 710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, bell- Artillery Museum to try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian los and Raphaels of the Italian rooms. The Rembrandt tower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kro- snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky pr., room filled with works by the old master is another concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl. nverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su. Open must as are the nearby El Grecos. The great impression- St. Nicholas Cathedral 02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl. ists like Gaugin, Van Gogh, Degas, Matisse, Picasso and QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission the gang are all up on the top floor where there is also a 714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30. 50 - 300Rbl. very large selection of Oriental and Middle Eastern art. Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free. Grandmaket (Russia in miniature) modern art centres Troitsky Cathedral QTsvetochnaya ul. 16, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel. (+7) The ground floor houses the museum’s treasures of an- QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Insti- 812 495 54 65, www.grandmaket.ru. Open 10:00 - If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided cient Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities tut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open 20:00. Admission 400Rbl, children 200Rbl. Weekend for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries, from the near and central east.There is also a number of 08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00. 450Rbl, children 250Rbl. including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on cafes and shops on the ground floor just to the right of Vladimirsky Cathedral House of Peter the Great young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Mu- the main staircase after the entrance to the museum. QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) QD-2, Petrovskaya nab. 6, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) seum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROS- 812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 812 232 45 76, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - PHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery, The largest number of opulent state rooms such as the 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00. 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock month. Admission 70 - 200Rbl. Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries, Museum of the History of Religion biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in parlours and the like are largely located on the first floor Lyrical City QC-3, Pochtamtskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. Russia, and houses around 2000 works. (in Russian 2nd floor) of the winter palace and lead off in With so many wonderful writers and poets who were born (+7) 812 314 58 38, www.gmir.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Anna Nova Art Gallery different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave the city Tue 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed. Admission 150 - 300Rbl. QD-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. enter the museum just after the ticket offices). without visiting one of the museums honouring them. Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant- +7 (812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru. garde (Matyushin house) Borey Art Centre QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, QD-3, Liteiny pr. 58, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Museum tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 275 38 37, www.borey.ru. 710 90 79, www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open QD-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission DiDi Art Gallery 10:30 - 18:00, Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Ad- 812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. 60 - 100Rbl. QB-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 62, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. mission 400Rbl. Audioguide 350Rbl. Excursion bu- Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 - Museum of Political History of Russia (+7) 812 320 73 57, www.didigallery.com. reau (+7) 812 571 84 46. 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky Erarta be booked in advance by phone. pr.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www. QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. Memorial flat of Alexander Blok polithistory.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. (+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com. QB-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713 Closed Thu and last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - Marina Gisich Gallery 86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue 150Rbl. Guided tours for groups from 700Rbl. QC-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl. Suvorov Memorial Museum (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com. Nabokov Museum QE-3, Kirochnaya ul. 43, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) Novy musey QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 39 14, www.suvorovmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open 11:00 18:00, Wed 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission (+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru. - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. S.P.A.S Gallery free. Yusupov Palace QC-2, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) Pushkin Apartment Museum QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru. QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98 83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. ROSPHOTO 571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 - Group tours should be booked in advance by phone QC-2, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40 (+7) 812 314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 500Rbl. Audioguide (+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org. - 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl. 500Rbl. 48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 49 What to see What to see PARKS Peterhof Old Soviet Stuff Tour If you want to see a completely different side of St. Peters- St. Petersburg is home to many parks and gardens in burg there are some new initiatives which aim to show you which you can while away an afternoon. They are ro- the fascinating sights beyond St. Petersburg. One of those mantic and beautiful, whether dipped in sunlight or is WOW Russia Tours which offers tours in a classic Soviet blanketed in snow. The Summer Garden is the oldest, Volga. We decided to check their signature tour; the Old dating back to the 18th Century, and was designed by Soviet Stuff Tour. Peter the Great. A lot of the parks are home to cafes The tour is a rough history of the communistic era with and other facilities for visitors. Yelagin Park, located on some iconic buildings as an example. From the place where Yelagin Island, is one of the most popular parks in the the revolution started all the way up to the Soviet 70s. It city, and often hosts various events throughout the wasn’t a boring history lesson but a combination of inter- year. The parks are great places to get away from the esting stories and anecdotes instead. The tour contains a chaos of the city and enjoy nature. Lenin pointing at things, a futuristic looking building which Peterhof is the most famous of Peter the Great’s sum- could be starring in any science fiction movie ,a slowly de- Tavrichesky Garden mer residences with its fountains and golden statues. The caying communistic factory and some other surprises just QF-3, MChernyshevskaya, www.tavrsad.com. residence was modelled on the Versailles and has become around the corner. Open 24hrs. known as Russia’s Versailles. With its spectacular fountains We visited all the sites with a classic Soviet GAZ Volga 24. Yelagin Park and golden rooms it is possible that this northern palace Called a ‘Soviet Mercedes’ this 1979 Volga 24 is pretty big QMKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812 430 09 11, rivals that of the French kings’. To visit Peterhof is to travel and supposed to have 125 horsepower but we think some www.elaginpark.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 23:00. back over three centuries in time to an era of unchecked horses left the engine over the years . We liked the 70’s his first visit and wants to share this with his guests. Except Yusupovsky garden ambition, limitless power and opulent beauty. Like many interior with its fancy fake wood dashboard and mustard for tours in his Volga car, Jonathan will also offer other ex- QD-3, Sadovaya ul. 50, MSennaya pl. Open 24hrs. of Peter the Great’s projects, Peterhof was conceived and yellow seats. Nothing makes you feel more in Russia then a cursions during the season. Something involving Russian executed to serve roles of both practicality and leisure. Of noisy, slightly uncomfortable, old piece of Soviet engineer- country-life, how to cleanse yourself from your sins and the former, the location was an ideal stopping point for his ing pride. The drive should already be a part of the adven- dirt and we even heard the word Kalashnikov somewhere travels to and from Europe, where he could observe his na- ture and with this Volga that certainly was the case! during our trip. Top all this off with a small shot of vodka val fortress Kronshtadt and his capital St. Petersburg from a WOW Russia Tours was set up by Jonathan who left Holland and explore Russia as you have never seen it before. As says distance. Of the latter, it is telling that the very first palace to by car all the way to the south of Russia, before he settled their slogan! Have fun! be built was named Mon plaisir (My Pleasure). in St. Petersburg. He’s been in love with the country since For more information: www.wowrussiatours.com

17.05 Saturday Peterhof Fountains Opening One of St. Petersburg’s favourite iconic sights, when the fountains of Peterhof are switched back on, it signals the start of summer. The grand cascade, an impressive sight on any day, will be especially theatrical this day. The majestic figure of Sampson will be turned on for another glorious northern summer with accompanying music and a daz- zling light show. This year the theme for the celebrations will be the transfer of Russia’s capital from Moscow to St. Petersburg which happened on 19 May 1712. Visitors will BE MY happy guest have the opportunity to participate in a journey through time, accompanied by melodies about St. Petersburg and This is a new project to give foreign visitors a truly Rus- Leningrad. A musical dance show will involve performers sian experience to explore the culture and the friend- from the Mariinsky Theatre, Theatre of Musical Comedy ship of the real Russia. Be My Guest arranges home and other troupes from St. Petersburg and Moscow. Fol- stays for tourists, so you can enjoy a home made meal, lowing the performances guest can wander through the spend the evening chatting to your hosts, perhaps lower park where the palaces, cascades and 147 fountains even learn how to cook borsch, make Russian pancakes are located including the famous Sampson fountain, the or home made pelmeni. Be My Guest opens up Rus- Pyramid, and Lion fountains. sian’s homes and Russian’s hearts to you. Discover local GETTING THERE: traditions, local superstitions and try to discover the se- By bus: From MAvtovo public buses 200, 210. cret of the Russian soul. The project also offers a range By marshrutka: From MAvtovo 224, 300, 424 or 424a. of unusual cultural programmes that help you under- From MBaltiskaya 404. From MPr. Veteranov 343, stand the domestic side of Russian life and lets you 639b. From MLeninsky pr. 103 (K224). discover what it is like to live like a Russian. Put politics By train: from Baltisky train station to Novy Peterhof. The aside and discover this homely world. www.facebook. ride takes approximately 45 minutes. Once in Novy Peter- com/BeMyHappyGuest, tel. (+7) 981 168 07 42 hof, take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356. QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87, www.peterhofmuseum.ru. 50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 51 Where to stay Where to stay at Decleor SPA and a branch of the Paris-based Carita salon. of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Calming and 5 Stars QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) comfortable with thick mattresses and soft furnishings, Angleterre Hotel 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. the rooms are crisp and bright.QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, This luxury hotel in the heart of the city caters to its high- MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www. end business clients with multiple conference rooms, Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. a unique amphitheatre style presentation hall that also The hotel is located in a charming and historical area, in periodically hosts film festivals and a fitness centre com- the very heart of St. Petersburg opposite the Hermitage Taleon Imperial Hotel plete with a Finnish sauna and swimming pool. Rooms are Museum and Palace Square. The Kempinski Hotel Moika Possibly the best-looking hotel in St. Petersburg, the cosy, comfy and contemporary in style with simple red 22 offers 197 rooms and suites and features the pan- Taleon Imperial also enjoys a stunning location on the cor- accents and parquet flooring.QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. oramic Bellevue Brasserie restaurant, Beau Rivage res- ner of Nevsky pr. and Moika. No expense has been spared 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www. taurant; Wine Cellar 1853; Tea Room and the Von Witte in the restoration of this 18th-century mansion, and the angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. bar with its log fireplace.QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, results are often jaw-dropping. Luxury and refinement are MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www. the watchwords here: the spacious rooms are impeccably Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. decorated and equipped, and the Emperor and Empress From the very entrance, compromising of a huge elegant suites have to be seen to be believed.QD-3, Nevsky pr. lobby down to the stylishly modern rooms and posh din- Radisson Royal Hotel 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www. ing facilites, the impression is that this place has had a most In this central 1730s building the well-trained staff take taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. thorough polish - the shine on those chandeliers is posi- a professional but personal approach. The suites have tively blinding! QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, stylish glass panelling, comfortable arm chairs and tall W St. Petersburg tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. arched windows. There’s the lovely renovated Barbazan Impressive as the grey granite facade is, guests are in for Restaurant serving international cuisine and the gorgeous a sumptuous surprise when they enter into a thoroughly Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg corner lobby bar with it’s Nevsky view.QE-3, Nevsky pr. contemporary interior designed down to the last detail. Tucked away discreetly to the side is the canal-view cock- 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 322 50 00, www. Sophisticated dining in miX restaurant and signature cock- tail bar Nove decorated in larger-than-life style with neon radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164 rooms. tails at the rooftop bar are destinations with views of St. bright colours and art installations. Up in the rooms there’s Isaac’s Cathedral and the Neva. Bliss Spa pampers with a ample space to work, rest and play with large desks, Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge twist, while the Sweat fitness centre and Wet pool area are rain showers and gigantic beds.QС-3, Nab. reky Moiky The gorgeous Palace Bridge Hotel is a cross between gleaming temples for body worship. QD-3, Voznesensky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 385 99 00, www. a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial hotel. pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www. dominarussia.com. 109 rooms. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg The hotel is the epitome of classy. The hotel not only of- fers luxurious suites and guest rooms, but also impeccable service and top quality amenities. Since it’s just been reno- vated, everything in the hotel is completely up-to-date and the whole project has been meticulously thought through for the comfort and convenience of the guests. QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183 rooms.

Grand Hotel Europe Occupying the full length of Mikhailovskaya Street, this pa- latial historical hotel has it all, from the original art-deco de- tailing to the exquisite, enormous bathrooms in the down- stairs bar to the 60cm mattresses. Suites themed around personages, places and institutions dear to the heart of St. Petersburg are gorgeously designed down to the last detail. QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.

Hotel Astoria The hotel is steeped in history and great care has been taken to preserve the original marblework, crystal chande- liers and art nouveau accents. The presidential suites fea- ture art, furniture and lighting from the original collection. Other amenities include conference spaces in the historical Winter Garden and Ballroom, a wide choice of treatments 52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 53 Where to stay Where to stay glass fronted kitchen is stunning.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, Ask the Concierge 4 Stars MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 406 00 00, www. Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg. 173 rooms . Interview with Irada Center West Pushkin Hotel Agalarova, Chief Con- This business-focused hotel has a whole floor of confer- Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky cierge of the Kempinski ence space and excellent facilities for business travellers. The third Sokos hotel in St. Petersburg brings yet more Hotel Moika 22. The 273 rooms, including five suites and one wedding Finnish style and sophistication to the city. The rooms are Please tell us something suite, are comfortable and well-equipped. Downstairs comfortable with stylish contemporary interiors and the about yourself. I actually there is a large lobby (which has free WiFi), a bar and usual mod-cons. In the hotel you’ll find the wonderful graduated as a chemical en- two restaurants; one of them, the reasonably priced 1930s-inspired restaurant Repin Lounge and an Irish-pub Q gineer, but my career in the Bierstube, even brews four sorts of beer. C-4, Nab. style bar. Situated on the older side of Vasilievsky Island, Q hotel industry started al- kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via Kanonerskaya it’s good for those interested in sightseeing. C-3, 9-ya M M ready from an early age. My ul. 33), Sennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50 00, www. Liniya 11-13, Vasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 family celebrated many important events in a haute-cuisine courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms. 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. hotel restaurant, where I later on worked as a hostess. But soon after I was suggested to join the front office team and Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky Vedensky Hotel from there I took on work in the concierge department. I re- Done up in warm beige and brown tones the small lobby The hotel brings some much needed 4 star options to the ally enjoy the constant motion and non-routine work. contains a round the clock concierge desk, a lounge with Petrograd island. Gleaming marble, exposed brick and all art deco accents and the reception desk which is conve- white furnishings are the chosen colour scheme for the What is your role as a chief concierge at the Kem- niently headed by flat screen televisions listing informa- shiny new interiors of this careful reconstruction of this pinski Moika 22 Hotel? I joined the Kempinski Hotel tion for any conference groups in attendance. Each of the historic high-ceilinged building.QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS 37, Moika 22 only recently, four months ago. Еach day I use standard rooms have everything the modern business- MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 332 42 22, www.alrosa- all of my previous experience to build a professional person or tourist could need or want.QE-3, Ligovsky hotels.ru/hotels/st-petersburg/. 158 rooms. Concierge team, focussing on excellent service and the pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www. status of being a hotel concierge. For more then four crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. years I am a member of Les Clefs d’Or and it is my main 3 Stars goal to have each member of my team walking around Novotel St. Petersburg Centre AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg with this lapel pinned to their uniform. Novotel offers a breath of fresh air to the St. Petersburg hotel This hotel is right on the banks of the Fontanka river, with market in its sense of style, service and manner of execution. many of the rooms overlooking the impressive Troitsky The International Economic Forum is a big event in St. Located just off Nevsky Prospekt, it is extremely convenient Cathedral. More than 1000 rooms are available over 18 Petersburg, what can you tell us about it? The St. Peters- to the central city but sheltered from the noise and bustle floors with 318 of them having been recently fully reno- burg International Economic Forum (SPIEF) is a TOP global of the main street. The exterior is a modern rendition of the vated into SMART Deluxe rooms. This is the tallest building business event, gathering over 4000 participants from more tower of Pisa and the Colosseum and the interior is modern in this part of the city with their famous Sky Bar which of- than 60 countries each year. The key mission is to remove and bright. The rooms are modern and comfortable.QE-3, fers the most amazing panoramic views of St. Petersburg, political and informational barriers between Russia and Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 supported with a modern design and conference spaces. other countries as well as establishing frameworks focused 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) on economic growth and collaboration. For hoteliers this 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. period is very busy, all the hotels have 100% occupancy and Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky SPIEF guests are very demanding in their requests. St. Petersburg IBIS St. Petersburg Centre The month of May is full of events and holidays, Facing onto Nevsky and within a stone’s throw of Smart and clean with the appearance of an upmarket ho- what is your favorite and why? Since I was born in Moskovsky railway station, you couldn’t dream of a more tel, Ibis is marketed for those in search of reasonably priced Leningrad and my family lived through the Second practical location than this well-designed hotel. Despite accommodation, leisure travellers and business people. World War and Leningrad Siege, the most emotional its central location the noise of the city is inaudible and With a central location, brand spanking new decor, inter- holiday for me is Victory Day. I have the greatest respect rooms are all brightly and comfortably up to the Park Inn national standard service levels and a restaurant down- for our grandparents who sacrificed so much for their standard. The hub of the hotel is the airy Paulaner res- stairs, this is a great option at very reasonable rates.QE-3, children and grandchildren to live happily and in peace. taurant, which bustles at all times of day and is smartly Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01 Each year on the 9th of May I reverently watch war veter- spread over two levels with views to Nevsky and plenty of 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. ans parade and can hardly hold back my tears. light coming through the delightful atrium.QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www. What is your favorite restaurant and/or bar? Since I parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. Hostels spend much time at the Kempinski Hotel Moika 22, I do Cubahostel very much like the Bellevue restaurant, located on the Radisson Sonya Hotel With an almost unbeatable location just behind Kazan top floor of our building overlooking beautiful St. Peters- The Radisson Sonya hotel looks like something from anoth- Cathedral, Cubahostel is an ideal budget option. The four- burg. Bright during the day time and intimate during er planet compared to some of the other more standard up- teen rooms each sleep from two to ten people. Upstairs the evening with lighted candles and a wide variety of market business class hotels in the city. It positively screams there’s a recently upgraded communal kitchen, though delicious French dishes from our Chef Christophe Lap- fashion and thoughtfulness. Themed around Dostoevsky’s guests also get special offers including a welcome drink laza. Another restaurant I can recommend is Baku, which novel Crime and Punishment, subtle references to the at Atelierbar a few minutes’ walk away.QD-3, Kazanskaya specializes in dishes from Azerbaijan. book are everywhere from the carpet and furniture to the ul. 5, 3rd floor, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 921 71 15, Russian restaurant. The huge glass covered courtyard with www.cubahostel.ru. 15 rooms. 54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 55 Shopping Shopping Russian souvenirs Amber Collection Shopping centres RAKETA WATCHES Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 Raketa is not only the old- talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are 08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK est factory in Russia, but looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we DLT Department store also the only watch fac- recommend you consider buying some of the following: QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, tory in the whole country. MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. With the help of Swiss Platok Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW engineers, the factory A perfect present for any female friend or relative. Nevsky Centre began to be reorganised These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 in 2009. There are now either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being 313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. approximately 60 work- worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma AKW ers, (originally there were look even cuter than usual by being worn around the Passage around 6000), still using the factory’s original build- head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable Among the gems, amber holds a special place. Com- QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 ings. The factory purchased modern equipment from type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The prising a rich array of coloured tones of red, yellow and 57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so gold it has been the source of magical myths and much - 21:00. AK quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispen- delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled superstition. It was believed to contain the fewest im- Vladimirsky Passage sible to the watch-making process are still in use. Ra- through a woman’s wedding ring. purities and thus prized for its healing properties. Origi- QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 19, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) keta manufactures watches to commemorate special nally a resin – amber often contains many impurities 812 331 32 32, www.vpassage.ru. Open 11:00 - 22:00. occasions. In 2012, the ‘Borodino’ watch, featuring an Birch wood crafts including pine needes, twigs, leaves, small insects and ALKW eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the fur- air bubbles. Since prehistoric times amber has been val- Eliseevsky Store celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic ther in to the countryside you get, the more you notice ued and traded, being brought down from the Baltic to QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66 War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It the Mediterranean on ancient trade routes. One of the 66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport repre- then comes as no surprise that Russians have been stories about its origins is reported by the Roman natu- Stockmann Delicatessen sented at each hour. www.raketa.com experts at producing items carved out of the bark of ralist Pliny writing in the first century A.D. “Nicias, again, QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly will have it, that it is a liquid produced by the rays of the 313 60 00, www.stockmann.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. sun; and that these rays, at the moment of the sun’s set- Galeria ting, striking with the greatest force upon the surface of Khokhloma the soil, leave upon it an unctuous sweat, which is car- Gifts and Souvenirs Galeria This traditional red, black and gold Russian design gen- ried off by the tides of the Ocean, and thrown up upon Chocolate Museum The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city erally painted onto wooden household items dates the shores of Germany.” Pliny goes on to observe that QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 and a stone’s throw away from the Moscow Railway back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in a small figure of amber cost more than a healthy slave. 315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 - Station, Galeria cannot be missed. The huge beautiful your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you In China and Japan red amber was particularly prized as 21:00. A new building fits remarkably well here. Inside, it’s ev- have space for more you can find almost anything with being reminiscent of dragon’s blood and consequently Gallery Mikhailov erything you would expect from your modern shop- khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco worn by members of the royal family and in Iran the QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. ping mall and more. It boasts the largest selection of sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic Shah is said to have worn amber to ward off assassina- (+7) 812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - brands in St. Petersburg, from high street brands like team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing. tion attempts. The idea that amber helps protect peo- 21:00. A Topshop, Levis, Mexx and French Connection to some ple from evil is particularly popular around the world. La Petite Opera Gallery Russian designer clothes as well. It also features a huge Vodka and Caviar In Burma, children wear amber frog amulets to protect QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and against the evil eye. While in Scotland it was thought MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox. and some very good restaurants. When with children, crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka that amber beads collected on a red thread scare net. Open 09:00 - 21:00. head to the top floor where there is a huge entertain- brands come out under the Russky standart label al- witches and evil spirits. In Russia and Poland, nannies Lomonosov Porcelain Factory ment area for the young and young-at-heart.QD-3, though ladoga and berozka are also good. For some- and wet nurses wore large amber necklaces to ensure QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel. Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 thing more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matri- the purity of children’s skin and to protects the baby (+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. oshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most from the evil eye and evil forces, ensuring that the child Nevsky Souvenir Shop ALK expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set grows up healthy and strong.QD-3, Passage shopping QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. centre, Boutique 38, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than (+7) 921 961 35 14/(+7) 981 190 68 81, www.amber- nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A not it is fake and/or illegal. collection.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00. A Pavloposadskie Platki Shop QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963 329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A Bookshops Souvenirs Fair Bukvoed QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06 812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A 01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW YellowKorner Dom Knigy QC-1, Bolshoy pr. PS, 86, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23 812 232 84 07, www.yellowkorner.com. Open 11:00 - 55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK 21:00. PAW 56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 57 Expat & Lifestyle Expat & Lifestyle In this section we seek to highlight various organisations russian for expats one can join, expat cultural institutions, religious services, Expat Contacts The Expat Experience and other items of interest that make your expat experi- Dutch Club St. Petersburg Cлава - Victory Day is celebrated on the 9th of May ence in St. Petersburg more full and fulfilling. There is a fairly Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com. Interview with Sjefke and marks the end of the second World War. As such, well-developed and growing expat scene in the city and English Communication Club Jansen, General Man- you’ll hear the word слава, “glory”, if you’re out and we recommend taking advantage of these connections. If Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru. ager of Grand Hotel about on this public holiday. Слава is also commonly you would like your expat group to be featured here, just Fryday Europe translated as “kudos”. Although “kudos” isn’t the exact drop us a line at [email protected]. Thanks! Qwww.fryday.net. translation and слава certainly isn’t used to express Please tell us something International Women’s Club about yourself. I’m a “kudos”, it is often used in conjunction with бог (God) Q www.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held Dutch national, which ex- as слава богу! (Glory to God or thank God!) Слава is Cultural Centres and once a month, in different locations in the city. Addi- also a fairly common Slavic name, for obvious reasons! Libraries plains my name, but was tional member based activities, events and groups are born and raised in Heidel- American Corners organised daily. berg – a famous university Q M E-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 46, Mayakovskaya, tel. town in Germany. I started my career with chef training (+7) 812 710 60 32, www.amcorners.ru. Open 11:00 - Religious Services and worked my way up, in various countries, to the po- 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. sition I’m in today. I’m married to my wife Michelle and Liden & Denz British Book Centre Catholic Church of St. Catherine we have two lovely daughters, Alyssa 10 and Ashleigh Q Q M Liden & Denz is one of St Petersburg’s oldest language D-4, Izmailovsky pr. 18 (Library im. Lermontova), D-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 seven years old. We have been living in the tropics for M schools, having opened in 1992. Now they have expanded Baltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 251 12 43, www.britania- 57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. the past 15 years, including, Singapore, Maldives and into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor (though the spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Mauritius and, besides working, enjoyed sun, sand and original centre off Ligovsky pr. also remains opens). Rus- Sun. Katarina (Swedish church) beach. I have lived and worked abroad for more than Q M sian is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though Danish Cultural Institute D-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, Nevsky pr., tel. 20 years and every destination has had its own fascinat- Q M individual tuition is also available. Classrooms are bright D-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, Nevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 (+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/ ing charm, character and individuality. And whenever I and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There 571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/. moved on, I carried some of the countries most remark- are computers with internet access for student use, plus Sat, Sun. Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Ma- able traits with me. wi-fi internet if you want to bring your own laptop.QE-3, Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik ria Church Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 334 07 QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel. What were your first ever impressions of Russia? 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat (+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. The first impressions were very positive throughout. 11:00 - 19:00. Grand Choral Synagogue The friendliness of its people, slightly reserved at first, Finnish Institute of St. Petersburg but warm hearted and genuine when you get to know internations QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 them better, and the impressive cultural aspect of the pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 - 713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for city that takes, quite frankly, your breath away. Start- InterNations is the biggest global networking site 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00. ing from the rich history, the architecture, right up to for expats of various nationalities and their family Foreign Literature Library Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul its theaters and museums; it is simply amazing and an members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 44/46, MNevsky pr., tel. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 invaluable treasure. worldwide. (+7) 812 571 08 56, www.pl.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, 312 07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - What can you tell us about the changes currently Already extremely popular in the capital Moscow, closed Sun. Foreign literature department 11:00 - 19:00, 18:00. going on inside the Grand Hotel Europe? The hotel InterNations is now rapidly expanding in St. Peters- closed Sun. is currently going through transition and we are reno- burg too. By becoming a member you gain access to Goethe Institute Derzhavin Institute vating a few areas throughout the property in order to the online social network were you can connect with QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 58, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 improve the offers to our patrons. We will soon have other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips 363 11 25, www.goethe.de/stpetersburg. Open 08:15 The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw your- brand new state-of-the-art conference facilities. Fur- for other expats and interact with people who may - 20:00, closed Sat. Library open 14:00 - 17:00, closed self into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one thermore, we will be opening an exciting new dining have the same interests. Sun. wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin man- Institut Francais option, AZIA, that promises to bring something new Most importantly of course InterNations also host sion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven and exciting to the table of connoisseurs living in, or QD-3, Nevsky pr. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571 classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows. monthly get-togethers. Check out upcoming events 09 95, www.ifspb.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Fri 09:30 - visiting, this beautiful city. And last but not least, we are at www.internations.org. There’s also a library, common rooms and comput- building some extremely luxurious suites that will, no 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ers with free internet access for students. Short-term, Istituto Italiano di Cultura doubt, set a new benchmark in the hotel industry, not long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at only in St. Petersburg. QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses 718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00 for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of If there would be one thing you could improve in - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 8 students per group. The staff speak many different St. Petersburg, what would it be? So far, I think bet- The Japan Center languages and have experience in teaching at both ter weather would be a massive improvement. QE-3, Ul. Marata 69-71, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise 326 25 50, www.jpcenter.spb.ru. Open 09:00 -18:00. accommodation, excursions and other social activities What is your favorite restaurant and/or bar in the Closed Sat, Sun. for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor, city? I haven’t been around much yet and was there- The Netherlands Institute MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19 fore only able to visit a few places up until now. But QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes SINTOHO at Four Seasons Hotel is excellent and I like 812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun. Ginza for its more casual atmosphere. Closed Sat, Sun. 58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 59 Business Maps Mannheimer Swartling Accountants and QD-2, Ul. Mal. Konyushennaya 1/3A, MNevsky pr., Lawyers tel. (+7) 812 335 23 00, www.mannheimerswartling.se. Acsour Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QD-3, Nevsky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) Moore Stephens International 812 454 44 24, www.acsour.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. QE-1, Bolshoy Sampsonievsky pr. 4/6A, business centre Closed Sat, Sun. Monblan, off. 204, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 332 28 51, Avenir Group www.moorestephens.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 23A, MVladimirskaya, tel. Sat, Sun. (+7) 812 718 81 57, www.avenir.ru. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Pepeliaev, Goltsblat & Partners Closed Sat, Sun. QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 54, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) Deloitte Touche CIS 812 640 60 10, www.pgplaw.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. QC-2, VO, Sredny pr. 36/40, lit.K, business center Closed Sat, Sun. Gustaf, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 71 06, PriceWaterhouseCoopers www.deloitte.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, QD-3, Per. Grivtsova 4A, MSennaya Pl., tel. (+7) 812 326 Sun. PW 69 69, www.pwc.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. EMG (Accountants & Consultants) QС-4, 10-ya Krasnoarmeiskaya ul. 22, office 69, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 77 81, www.emg-russia. Business Associations com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. American Chamber of Commerce Ernst and Young (Accountants & Con- QC-3, Ul. Yakubovicha 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) sultants) 812 448 16 46, www.amcham.ru/spb. Open 09:00 - QD-3, Ul. Mal. Morskaya 23A, MAdmiralteiskaya, 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tel. (+7) 812 703 78 34, www.ey.com/cis. Open 08:30 - SPIBA - St. Petersburg International Busi- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ness Association for North-Western KPMG Russia QE-4, Ul. Marata 69-71A, MLigovsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 QD-3, Nevsky pr. 21, off. 506, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 313 73 00, www.kpmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed 812 325 90 91, www.spiba.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Sat, Sun. Closed Sat, Sun.

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60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 61 BOLSHOY NEVKI NAB. AKADEMIKA PAVLOVA UL. 1 59 KANTEMIROVSKAYA UL. KANTEMIROVSKY 55 ALEXANDRA MATROSOVA UL. MALOY NEVKI NAB. MOST 51 LITOVSKAYA UL.

3 4 75 49

6 VYBORGSKAYA NAB. KONDRATIEVSKY PR. KONDRATIEVSKY 64 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. APTEKARSKAYA NAB. 20 CHAPYGINA UL. 3 MEDIKOV PR. CHUGUNNAYA UL. 57 METALLISTOV PR. 74 KONSTANTINOVSKY PR. PROFESSORA POPOVA UL. ZAMSHINA UL. PESOCHNAYA NAB.43 PROFESSORA POPOVA UL. APTEKARSKY PR. SMOLYACHKOVA UL. KLUCHEVAYA UL. MARSHALA BLUKHERA PR. 38 ANTONOVSKAYA UL. DINAMO PR. VYBORGSKAYA 1 11 BAROCHNAYA UL. 11 GRENADERSKY CHUGUNNAYA UL. SEVERNAYA DOROGA 43 28 44 MOST ARSENALNAYA UL. VASENKO UL.

RYUKHINA UL. RYUKHINA GRENADERSKAYA UL. MORSKOY PR. 29 METALLISTOV PR. KRESTOVSKY 24 2 OSTROV 4 BOLSHOY SAMPSONIEVSKY PR. BATAREINAYA DOROGA 30 PETROGRADSKAYA UL. PETROGRADSKAYA NEISHLOTSKY PER. DINAMO PR. BOLSHAYA NEVKA RIVER RIVER 40 LEVASHOVSKY PR. PL. LVA FOKINA UL. KRESTOVSKY PR. SPORTIVNAYA UL. PIROGOVSKAYA NAB. PISKARYOVSKY PR. TOLSTOGO LVA TOLSTOGO UL. 21 POLYUSTROVSKY PR. 33 LEVASHOVSKY PR. CHKALOVSKY PR. KAMENNOOSTROVSKY PR. ZHUKOVA UL. 44 24 PETROGRADSKAYA NAB. . 40 VYBORGSKAYA UL. MINERALNAYA UL. 8 B MALY PR. 84 25 NA KOTOVSKOGOCHAPAEVA UL. A 65 Y NEVKAV 14 LENINA UL. RENTGENA UL. LESNOY PR. UZHNA E 23 YA DOR AR BOL. ZELENINA UL. YUZHNAYA DOROGA OGA Z 26 LA 30 MALAYA RALA 28 GATCHINSKAYA UL. ADMI 48 BOL. MONETNAYA UL. SMIRNOVA UL. 22 ORANIENBAUMSKAYA UL. 13 BOLSHOY PR. KRONVERKSKAYA UL. 15 VATUTINA UL. L. PEVCHESKY PER. . MIRA UL. CHAPAEVA UL. 13 U L 22 PIONERSKAYA UL. 30 U A KORPUSNAYA UL. 23 A AVSTRI- Find our review on page 29 Find ourAY review on page 30 Find ourY review on page 30 8 Find our review on page 23 K CHKALOVSKAYA A SKAYA PL. S SK H 30 R 16 16 24 Z A 11 6 BOTKINSKAYA UL. O 11 K SAMPSONIEVSKY KONDRATYEVSKY PR. SHSABLINSKAYA UL. 1 7 14 SVERDLOVSKAYA NAB.FEODOSISKAYA UL. D 35 KRASNOGO KURSANTA UL. U MOST 34 A . P L 33 L VOSKOVA UL. O M A FINLYANDSKY PR. V ARSENALNAYA UL. NEVA PETROVSKAYA KOSA M 35 25 2 O 2 MALY PR. 4 GARDEN N A NVERKSKY PR. PIONERSKAYA UL. R KRO 15 MICHURINSKAYA UL. 4 5 ZHDANOVSKAYA21 UL. CHKALOVSKY PR. BOL. PUSHKARSKAYA UL.K KLINICHESKAYA UL. NEVA RIVER REVOLYUTSII SHOSSE 25 VVEDENSKAYAI NUL. A 1 26 U KUYBYSHEVA UL. L GORKOVSKAYA 7 1 50 14 . 2 4

13 BOLSHEOHTINSKY PR. 8 PIROGOVSKAYA3 NAB. SMOLNAYA NAB. 1 4 KOMSOMOLA UL. 18 61 CRUISER AVRORA 1 PL. LENINA 1 KOMSOMOLA UL. 1 11 AKADEMIKA LEBEDEVA UL. 3 60 SYEZZHINSKAYA UL. ORLOVSKAYA UL. 1 1 11 5 7 . ARSENALNAYA NAB. 9 MALY PR.8 BOLSHOY PR. R TROITSKAYA P B. NA 25 ZVERIN YA PL. 1 SK Y SKA A 12 21 YA K ERK PETROVSKAYA NAB. U S MORSKAYA NAB. L. ZOO NV LITEINY URALSKAYA UL. MALAYA NEVA RIVER BLOKHINA UL. K RO R K MOST

ADMIRALSKY PR. E SMOLNAYA NAB.

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50 1 -YA LINIYA SAPYORNY PER. BERINGA UL. 17 6 MOST PR. NOVOCHERKASSKY 23 3 UL. RADISHCHEVA 62 KUNSTKAMERA 18 45 12 - 13-YA LINIYA 22 KORABLESTROITELEY UL. VASILEOSTROVSKAYA 35 6 - 7 VILENSKY PER. 61 P 24 SUVOROVSKY53 PR. ER SEA PASSENGER 8 - 9 Y . UL. 14 - 15-YA LINIYA 51 - 2 MENSHIKOV YA LINIYA 13 UL. KOROLENKO BASKOV PER. N TERMINAL 59 32 49 R 35 PALACE 39 A - 31 MOKHOVAYAUL. Y YA LINIYA DVORTSOVAYA NEKRASOVA UL. T 2 - 3 11 2 3 G 8 PL. 2 9-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. E

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15 MALY PR. 20 MANEZHNAYA R

UNIVERSITETSKAYA NAB. 7-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 11 BOLSHOY PR. UL. KONYUSHENNAYA MAL. PL. ZHUKOVSKOGO UL.

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24 - 25-YA LINIYA 34 CENTER A 20 - 21 NEVSKY PR. UL. 36 11 16 NAKHIMOVA UL. T 76 25 ADMIRALTEISKY PR. ADMIRALTEISKAYA PASSAGE SA- SKAYA UL. 18 70 SREDNY PR. N 4-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 69 20 BLAGOVESHCHENSKY MIKHAILOV- 2 8 6 . SADOVAYA UL. 13 44 O GRECHESKY PR. KIRILLOVSKAYA UL. 29 3 50 MOST B F MAL. 12 SINOPSKAYA NAB. 22 - 23 - A NEVSKY PR. 9 80 YA LINIYA MAL. MORSKAYA UL. SUVOROVSKY PR. 14 N DOVAYA 3-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 55 60 LIGOVSKY PR. MALOOKHTINSKAYA NAB.

Y 4 17 65 UL. VOSSTANIYA KARAVANNAYA UL. 16 - 1744 K 64 1 8 GALERNAYA UL. E LITEINYPR. -YA LINIYA GOROKHOVAYA UL. ANICHKOV 2-YA SOVETSKAYA UL. 12 POCHTAMTSKY PER. R GOSTINY DVOR SHOPPING MALO- Y 39 MOST KLUBNY PER. K 43 94 CENTER 1 OHTINSKY - LEITENANTA SHMIDTA NAB. 30 BOL. MORSKAYA UL. I OSTROVSKOGO 96 NEVSKY 18 - 19- YA LINIYA O SHOPPING 47 STARORUSSKAYA UL. PARK 10

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24 - 25-YA LINIYA K 5 DMITROVSKY P POVARSKOY Y 80 . 148 S NSK T 55 8 I O L FONARNY PER. 29 KOLOKOLNAYA 15 S D A ZOD. ROSSI UL. R EZ IR SHCHERBA- 15 E O SPASSKY PER. 57 152 H R M LOMONOSOVA KOV PER. UL. K P 2 9 85 D 4 STAKHANOVTSEV8 UL. 39 14 100 A 94 PL. DOSTOEVSKAYA PUSHKINSKAYA UL. 31 7 SREDNY PR. 43 APRAKSIN PER. 117 LOMONOSOVA UL. RUBINSHTEINA UL. ZANEVSKY PR. GOROKHOVAYA UL. KUZNECHNY PER. 170 MO KAZANSKAYASTOLYARNY UL. PER. 59 7 25 1 49 IK POLTAVSKAYA UL.TELEZHNAYA UL.NEVSKY PR. 41 KOSAYA LINIYA Y 82 114 RE 67 7 172 KY 38 40 VLADIMIRSKAYA 16 SREDNEGAVANSKY PR. N 21 13 147 AB. 89 74 15 12 MASLYANOGO KAN. 5

104 DEKABRISTOV UL. GRAZHDA NSKAYA UL. SADOVAYA 30 SHOPPING MIRGORODSKAYA UL. 151 180 PODYACHESKAYA 53 DZHAMBULA PER. KHARKOVSKAYA16 UL. 29 124 MARIINSKY UL. SREDNYAYA 77 13 18 2 DETSKAYA UL. SENNAYA PL. CENTER 182 86 THEATRE BOL. PODYACHESKAYA UL. BORODINSKAYA UL. RAZYEZZHAYA UL. AL.NEVSKOGO UL. ALEXANDRA PISAREVA UL. 71 GALERIA 3 ANGLISKY PR. TEATRALNAYA 79 SVECHNOY. 169 PER. 20 NEVSKOGO SENNAYA PL. 1 EFIMOVA UL. L PL. LIGOVSKY PR. U MOST PL. ALEXANDRA MOSKOVSKY PR. MATVEEVA 29 74 5 MARATA UL. SEMYONOVSKAYA 4 99 100 NEVSKOGO MINSKY 3 30 PL. 13 O PER. GLINKY UL. 2 91 1 G NAB. PER. 7 31 3 115 O 89

50 K 13 98

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DEKABRISTOV UL. T 19 51 S

9 KAZACHY PER. 37 O 5 18 7 VOZNESENSKY PR. 109 9 D KO 1 PER. BOITSOVA FONTANKY REKY104 NAB. ZHE A VENNAYA LINIY 60 ZVENIGORODSKAYA 1 V 105 2 9 SOYUZA PECHATNIKOV UL. NIKOLSKAYA V PRAVDY UL. 60 DROVANOY PER. E PL. D E ZVENIGORODSKAYA UL. TRANSPORTNY PER. 115 N V.ERMAKA UL. NIKOLSKY PER. 110 S K PUSHKINSKAYA 3 ANGLISKY PR. OVA KA O KOLOMENSKAYA UL. LIGOVSKY PR. OED N. N G PIONERSKAYA ALEXANDER NEVSKY RIMSKOGO–KORSAKOVARIB 134 PR. AB 62 MOSKOVSKY PR. O CATHEDRAL

G . PL. 102 K 25 A 13 MYASNAYA UL. LERMONTOVSKY PR. N 84 BOROVAYA UL. 11 PER. MAKARENKO 129 FONTANKA RIVER A 18 ROMENSKAYA UL. 116 L A OBUKHOVSKOY OBORONY PR. PRYAZHKI REKY NAB. Mariinsky Theatre DERZHAVINSKY PER. Aleksander Nevsky Monastery 112 156 U L PODYEZDNOY PER. 19 135 . 121 LOTSMANSKAYA UL. KANONERSKAYAThe UL. home of Russian ballet and opera since the 1860s, Founded by Peter the Great, in 1710,OBVODNOGO this orthodox KAN. NAB. mon- VITEBS KAYA UL. VEREISKAYA UL. MARATA UL. 26 6 4 KLIMOV PER. PODOLSKAYA UL. PSKOVS KAYA UL.GRIBOEDOVA KAN. the Mariinsky Theatre, is a cultural leader and one of the49 astery is the most27 important21 in St. Petersburg. The St.

19 LIGOVSKY PR. 2 ZAGORODNY PR. 126 LABUTINAmost UL. illustrious and beautiful theatres in the world. RUZOVSKAYA UL. PAVLOGRADSKIY Trinity cathedral5 is worth a visit and so is the cemetery. 132 32 143 ATAMANSKAYA UL. 178 29 FONTANKY REKY NAB. 1 TYUSHINA UL. PER. SADOVAYA UL. TEKHNOLOGICHESKYSERPUKHOVSKAYA UL. LUBLINSKYPER. 15 INSTITUT 6 31 OBVODNY KANAL MOZHAISKAYA UL. 91 Find our review on page 30 FONTANKA RIVER LERMONTOVSKY PR. 1-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. BRONNITSKAYA UL. Find our reviewKONSTANTINA 89on page ZASLONOVA83 19UL. and 29 TROITSKY PR. IZMAILOVSKY PR. KLINSKY PR. 20 2 145 39 DROVYANAYA UL. SOVETSKY PER. 38 OBVODNOGO KAN.NAB. 156 2-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA1 UL.

144 CHERNYAKHOVSKOGOUL. T 13-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 17 75 S 43 BATAISKY PER. I 30 O 3-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. 166 L 99 K 8-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL.2 MOSKOVSKY PR. 49 O 4-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. V 1 S 9-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. K RIZHSKY PR. O 5-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. G OBVODNY KANAL 40 O 10-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYA UL. 52 U 6-YA KRASNOARMEISKAYAEGOROVA UL. UL. MALODETSKOSELSKY PR. L RYBINSKAYA UL. . 30 2 GLUHOOZERSKOE SHOSSE 119

KURLYANDSKAYA UL. NEFTYANAYA DOROGA 57

54 BOROVAYA UL. 7 54 30 KURSKAYA UL.

57 OBVODNY KANAL STAROPETERGOFSKY PR. STEPANA RAZINA UL. 171 149 129 189 175 VORONEZHSKAYA UL. 209 PRILUKSKAYA UL. 227 OBVODNOGO KAN. NAB.

DNEPROPETROVSKAYA UL. OBVODNY KANAL TAMBOVSKAYA UL. RASSTANNAYA UL.

BALTISKAYA FRUNZENSKAYA

B. Y REKY NA OIK M Street register Moscow

1-28-ya liniya B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul. C-3 Rubinshteina ul. E-3 Admiralteisky pr. D-3 Kovensky per. E-2 Ryleeva ul. E-2 Alexandra Nevskogo most F-3 Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul. F-2 Sadovaya ul. E-2,3 Angliskaya nab. C-3 Kronverkskaya nab. D-2 Sampsonievsky most D-1 Anichkov most E-3 Kronversky pr. D-1 Sapyorny per. E-2 Arsenalnaya nab. E-2 Kutuzova nab. D-2/E-2 Shpalernaya ul. E-2/F-2 Bakunina pr. F-3 Lermontovsky pr. C-3/C-4 Shvedsky per. D-2 Baskov per. E-2 Letny sad D-2 Sinopskaya nab. F-3 Belinskogo ul. E-2 Leitenanta Shmidta nab. C-3 Smolnaya nab. F-2 Birzhevaya liniya C-2 Ligovsky pr. E-3/E-4 Solyanoy per. E-2 Blagoveshchensky most C-2 Liteiny most E-2 Sotsialisticheskaya ul. E-3 Blokhina ul. C-2 Liteiny pr. E-2/E-3 Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul. E-3/F-2,3 Fast-paced Moskva is Russia’s political, historical and business getting there Bol. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Lomonosova ul. D-3/E-3 Spassky per. D-3 capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious Bol. Morskaya ul. C-3/D-3 Makarova nab. C-2 Sredniy pr. (V0) B-2,3/C-2 from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day Bol. Podyacheskaya ul. D-3 Mal. Konyushennaya ul. D-2 Starorusskaya ul. F-3 mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a melting- from Moskovsky vokzal, so there’s little excuse for not pot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can Bolsheokhtinsky most F-2 Mal. Morskaya ul. D-3 Stolyarny per. D-3 reflects its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Mos- also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train, Bolshoy pr. (PS) C-1,2 Mal. Posadskaya D-1 Stremyannaya ul. E-3 cow’s busy streets all bear witness to Russia’s turbulent histo- which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you Bolshoy pr. (VO) B-3/C-2 Mal. Sadovaya E-3 Suvorovsky pr. F-2,3 ry and dynamic future and while it’s not for the faint-hearted, there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed. Chernyshevskogo pr. E-2 Maly pr. (PS) C-1 Sverdlovskaya nab. F-1,2 Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at one of Moscow’s three airports, hop on the aeroexpress Chkalovsky pr. C-1 Maly pr. (VO) B-1 Tavricheskaya ul. F-2 train which brings you right to the centre. Degtyarnaya ul. F-3 Manezhnaya pl. E-3 Chaikovskogo ul. E-2 Churches Dekabristov ul. C-3/D-3 Marata ul. E-3 Teatralnaya pl. C-3 Cathedral of Christ the Saviour QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) Luxury Trains to Dostoevskogo ul. E-3 Marsovo pole D-2 Troitsky most D-2 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon Dumskaya ul. D-3 Mayakovskogo ul. E-2/E-3 Tuchkov most C-2 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English Moscow Dvortsovaya nab. D-2 Mendeleevskaya liniya C-2 Tverskaya ul. F-2 for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Efimova ul. D-3 Mikhailovskaya ul. D-3 Universitetskaya nab. C-2,3 Novodevichy Monastery capital it is worth considering taking a private train. Furshtatskaya ul. E-2 Millionnaya ul. D-2 Vladimirsky pr. E-3 QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every Galernaya ul. C-3 Moskovsky pr. D-3/D-4 Vosstaniya ul. E-2,3 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. Pokrovsky Monastery Glinki ul. C-3 Moiky reky nab. C-3/D-2,3 Vosstaniya pl. E-3 After being shown to your cabin you will find your QE-3, Ul. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) beds have already been made up with real duvets Goncharnaya ul. E-3 Muchnoy per. D-3 Voznesensky pr. D-3 495 911 49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are Gorokhovaya ul. D-3 Mytninskaya nab. С-2/D-2 Zagorodny pr. D-3,4/E-3 20:00. Admission free. spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to Grafsky per. E-3 Nekrasova ul. E-2 Zhukovskogo ul. E-3 your room in the morning and if at any moment dur- ing the trip you experience some problems you can Griboedova kan. nab. C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr. D-3/E-3/F-3 Museums call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed Grivtsova per. D-3 Ostrovskogo pl. E-3 All-Russian Decorative Art Museum and they will come to you! If you want to wake up Inzhenernaya ul. E-3 Pestelya ul. E-2 Abbreviations QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu Q M Isaakievskaya pl. D-3 Petrovskaya nab. D-2 Ul. – Ulitsa money. Trains leave Moskovsky vokzal ( Pl. Voss- 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed taniya) at 00:20 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For Iskusstv pl. D-3 Pirogovskaya nab. E-1/E-2 Pr. – Prospekt Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at Italyanskaya ul. D-3/D-4 Pochtamtskaya ul. C-3 Pl. – Ploshchad GULAG History Museum www.megapolis-te.ru Kadetskaya liniya C-2 Poltavskaya ul. F-3 Bul. – Bulvar QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 11:00 Kamennoostrovsky pr. D-1 Pushkinskaya ul. E-3 Per. – Pereulok - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission Karavannaya ul. E-3 Radishcheva ul. E-2/E-3 Kan. – Kanal 150Rbl. Kazanskaya ul. D-3 Razyezzhaya ul. E-3 Nab. – Naberezhnaya State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Kirochnaya ul. E-2/F-2 Rimskogo-Korsakova ul. C-3,4/D-3 Bol. – Bolshaya QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 Kolokolnaya ul. E-3 Robespyera nab. E-2 Mal. – Malaya 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. 64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket April - May 2014 65 Moscow The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) Modern Art Centres 495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - Moscow Multimedia Art Museum (MMAM) 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibi- 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - tion. 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Tretyakov Gallery Moscow Museum of Modern Art QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) (MMOMA) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl. PU 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admis- sion from 150Rbl. Aeroexpress Trains hotels The most reliable way of travelling to and from air- ports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sherem- QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, etyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnu- tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. kovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and hhhhh Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is con- Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow nected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes QD-4, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. hhhhh Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress Lotte Hotel Moscow ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail ter- QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. minals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, Hotel Nikol’skaya Kempinski or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of QC-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, 76, www.kempinski.com. hhhhh where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Air- aeroexpress.ru. port Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, Download our free mobile app and you will be able to MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www. purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) from your smartphone/tablet screen. 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh If you are a Master Card Pay- Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Pass or VISA PayWave hold- Center er, you can easily pay for the QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, fare directly at the turnstiles tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh Aeroexpress. Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) The Aeroexpress hotline is 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls Novotel Moscow City Hotel from within Russia are free). QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. hhhh Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh Comrade Hostel QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor (go under arch to the left of the playground to find building en- trance), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 31 26, www. comradehostel.com. iVan Hostel QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com