Nala Top Fi04008 Table of Contents
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SEWING INSTRUCTIONS NALA TOP FI04008 TABLE OF CONTENTS METHODOLOGY . 3 Symbology . 3 Suggested equipment . 4 Things you need . 5 Pattern pieces . 6 Sewing technology . 7 How to read instructions . 9 SEWING . 10 1. Front . 10 2. Back pleat . 11 3. Back yoke . 13 4. Side seams . 14 5. Shoulder seams . 16 6. Bias binding . 17 7. Hemline and slit . 24 8. Sleeves opening . 29 GLOSSARY . 32 Nala TOP FI04008 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY PATTERN MARKINGS SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE CENTER LINE FOLD LINE PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE GATHER STRETCH BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH SEAM STRUCTURE INTERFACING FABRIC ZIPPER SERGE CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH SEWING LINE FOLD LINE Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch 9 8 7 3 6 5 4 2 3 2 1 1 Thread snips Tailors chalk; Bobbins Ruler soap or fabric pen 3” 4 8 3” 1” 1” 1 1 4 2 1 8 1” 1” 4 1” 8 5” Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED • Fabric • Serger threads • Sewing needle / Universal • Stay tape • Sewing thread The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric BODY MEASUREMENTS cm BODY HEIGHT cm N I BUST cm 45. cm M HIP cm BODY HEIGHT cm X A BUST cm 90. cm M HIP cm Recommended fabrics: FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Rayon Challis Medium 0-2 % Linen /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Challis Medium Heavy Suiting /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Shirtings Gabardine Tencel Twill Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES TOP FABRIC PIECES Front A Front side Le B Front Side Right C Back D Back Yoke E Back Hem Facing DA Front Hem Facing AA Front Side Hem Facing Le BA Front Side Hem Facing Right CA * Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line. Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY Fabric key Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing Interfacing placement on garment Laying out and cutting fabric selvage bias grain cross grain selvage lengthwise grain Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains. Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =” 1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper. Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints. Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric. Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 8 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS SERGE action Finishing the side seams. PLACE 1.2 Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges. SEW 1.3 Sew the side seams. Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 9 How to read instructions1. SEWING 1. FRONT PLACE 1.1 Place the front side part (B and C) to the central front part (A) with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges. SEW 1.2 Sew the front seam to the slit position. SERGE 1.3 Finish the seam allowances with a serger stitch to the slit notch. Nala TOP SEWING FI04008 Page 10 1. Front BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN, YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION Thank you, Fayma Team .