SEWING INSTRUCTIONS NALA TOP FI04008 TABLE OF CONTENTS
METHODOLOGY ...... 3
Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instructions ...... 9
SEWING ...... 10
1. Front ...... 10 2. Back pleat ...... 11 3. Back yoke ...... 13 4. Side seams ...... 14 5. Shoulder seams ...... 16 6. Bias binding ...... 17 7. Hemline and slit ...... 24 8. Sleeves opening ...... 29
GLOSSARY ...... 32
Nala TOP FI04008 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY
PATTERN MARKINGS
SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE
CENTER LINE FOLD LINE
PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE
GATHER STRETCH
BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH
SEAM STRUCTURE
INTERFACING FABRIC
ZIPPER SERGE
CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH
SEWING LINE FOLD LINE
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT
Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger
Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot
Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch
9
8
7 3 6
5
4 2
3
2 1 1
Thread snips Tailors chalk; Bobbins Ruler soap or fabric pen
3” 4 8
3” 1” 1” 1
1 4 2
1 8
1” 1”
4 1”
8 5”
Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED
• Fabric • Serger threads • Sewing needle / Universal • Stay tape • Sewing thread
The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric
BODY MEASUREMENTS cm
BODY HEIGHT cm
N I BUST cm 45. cm M HIP cm
BODY HEIGHT cm X
A BUST cm 90. cm M HIP cm
Recommended fabrics:
FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Rayon Challis Medium 0-2 % Linen /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Challis Medium Heavy Suiting /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Shirtings Gabardine Tencel Twill
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES
TOP FABRIC PIECES Front A Front side Le B Front Side Right C Back D Back Yoke E Back Hem Facing DA Front Hem Facing AA Front Side Hem Facing Le BA Front Side Hem Facing Right CA
* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY
Fabric key
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing
Interfacing placement on garment
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage
bias grain
cross grain selvage
lengthwise grain
Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains.
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”
1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.
Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 8 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS
SERGE
action
Finishing the side seams.
PLACE 1.2
Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW 1.3
Sew the side seams.
Nala TOP METHODOLOGY FI04008 Page 9 How to read instructions1. SEWING 1. FRONT
PLACE 1.1
Place the front side part (B and C) to the central front part (A) with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW 1.2
Sew the front seam to the slit position.
SERGE 1.3
Finish the seam allowances with a serger stitch to the slit notch.
Nala TOP SEWING FI04008 Page 10 1. Front
BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,
YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING
AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION
Thank you, Fayma Team