01Kimono Sleeve with Yoke
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CB BACK *All values are given in cm. 90 45 This instruction is developed from the basic dress block, which is fitted to the sleeve and the basic dress sleeve. Before beginning this sleeve, place the alignment (bust dart) of the front into the waist dart. You can move it later as needed. You must also now decide whether to remove or keep the shoulder dart on the back. In our illustration we have chosen to keep the shoulder dart. Draw a line from the shoulder point on your sleeve that divides the sleeve into two pieces. Be aware that this line is perpendicular to the bicep line. Shoulder SIH point WC Instruction 9 Start by drawing a right angle in the upper right side of the paper. The BACK angle should be in a size so the pattern pieces can be placed along it as shown in the figure. Then draw a guide line that divides the angle into two 9 equal parts (45 degrees). Mark the match points on the pattern pieces. Measure 9 cm downwards BIC the armhole from the shoulder seam on front and back. Then from the match point, measure the remaining of both armholes. The value for FRONT these measures is then inserted on the sleeve from the sleeve seams and up along the sleeve cap on the side that belong to front and back respec- tively. This is marked with the symbol O on the figure, which means equal FRONT SIH CF length. Place the pattern pieces onto the angle. Start by placing the back with CB DRESS SLEEVE along one side of the angle and the sleeve so the line at the shoulder EB point lies along the 45-degree guide line. Make the match points on both armhole and sleeve cap to meet. Then place the front so CF is parallel to the angle and the match points on both armhole and sleeve cap meet. Connect the match points with a guide line. On front and back, draw a new shoulder line along the shoulder and down to the guide line on the WC sleeve where they meet and further downwards to the sleeve hem line. - Note that you can benefit from cutting a bit of the shoulder height, to get a neat rounded shoulder. - Check also the length of the shoulder lines. They must have the same length. From the match points the yoke is drawn on front and back. From each waist dart, draw a straight line up to the yoke. The pattern pieces can now be copied. See the next page for the pattern overview. © CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 1 of 2 CB YOKE / SLEEVE - BACK BIC BACK SIDE PANEL BACK YOKE / SLEEVE - FRONT CF CB SIH EB BIC FRONT EB SIDE PANEL FRONT WC WCTV SIH CF BP BP WC WC © CUT UP STUDIO 2017 Page 2 of 2.