The Antarctic Sun, December 13, 1997

DECEMBER 13, 1997 Every Two Weeks

Published during the austral summer for the United States Antarctic Program at McMurdo Station, Antarctica.

Tragedy at SouthPole: Skydivers Fatal Jump View to the Heavens, by Alexander Colhoun hree skydivers plunged to their View to the Past: Tdeaths last Sunday while attempt- ing what is believed to have been the first South Pole Astrophysics Comes of Age civilian skydiving attempt over the South story and photos by Alexander Colhoun Pole. The six-person team was organized by Adventure Network International (ANI), a company that has been assisting private adventurers in the Antarctic since 1988. All six members of the team jumped from a single Twin Otter aircraft from an elevation of approximately 18,000 feet. The South Pole rests at 9,500 feet above

...cont. on page 8

INSIDE Rebuilding the Pole A massive reconstruction project kicks off at South Pole Station. PHI over Antarctica Bayou-based Petroleum Helicopters, Inc. proves you donÕt have to be cold-blooded to work on the ice. Women In Antarctica: Self Health is the Key Staying healthy in the Antarctic environment begins Fred Mrozek makes adjustments to the Spirex infrared telescope, which he built by hand. SPIREX is one of with basics: nutrition, balance and three telescopes at the South Pole, a location some Astronomers are calling the next place where astrophysics rest. will take-off. Stitch and Bitch Pickers are pick- Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica ÒThis is the best place in the world for ing, throwers are throwing, new azing into the 60 centimeter concave near infrared astronomy,Ó said Mrozek. ÒThe folks are learning, and occasionally mirror of the Spirex infrared tele- conditions here are close to ideal and better someone is bitching. G scope, Fred MrozekÕs eyes burn with curiosity. than any other place on earth for this kind of The Traverse That DidnÕt Mother Dismantling the telescope he built with his astronomy.Ó Nature proves once again that she own hands, Mrozek speaks in space-age verse Dr. Tony Stark, an astronomer from the will decide who comes and goes in with tales of mapping the Magelantic Clouds Smithsonian Astrophysical Observatory in Antarctica. in the galactic center and of tiny galaxies being Cambridge, Mass., was equally enthusiastic. Perspective The tragedy at the South pulled and stretched as if by an ocean current. ÒThis is the next place where astronomy will Pole prompts one woman to rethink MrozekÕs world may sound like science take off,Ó said Stark. ÒThe observing here is her understanding of the quest for fiction, but with the help of the National just too good.Ó adventure. Science Foundation, they have become science Stark should know. A denizen of the astro- Profile: Five who Survived The fact. nomical world, heÕs been probing the universe captivations and passions of five Just eight years ago modern astronomy for a quarter century, the last decade of which men and women who spent one year at the South Pole. made its debut at the South Pole. For astro- has been focused on the South Pole. physicists like Mrozek, the experiment has been an unabashed success. ...cont. on page 5 2 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

8,000 miles of ocean and ice and 10,000 feet of elevation separate the Pole from the closest American city. In winter it is entirely inacces- Rebuilding the Pole sible. Imagine then, transporting equipment, story and photo by Alexander Colhoun materials, workers and all their related needs to this isolated, windswept slab of ice. Over the next eight years more than 1600 flights will be made to the South Pole from McMurdo. Every item carried there, from solar panels to toilet seats, must go through a series of hurdles fit for an Olympian, including design, procurement, pre-deployment assembly and disassembly stateside, travel to Port Hueneme and on to McMurdo by ship and finally to the Pole by air. It is a logistics juggernaut inextricably linked to unpredictable weather patterns. Despite a twelve-day delay in opening the station this summer, caused by unseasonably cold temperatures at the South Pole (too cold for LC-130 Hercules aircraft to attempt land- ing), this seasonÕs objectives have not been diminished. Besides maintaining a world class science program, the station will build a massive new garage arch, will move a summer camp of ten Jamesway tents to a new location, Carlton Walker, ASA Construction Supervisor, watches as D-7 bulldozers move thousands of pounds of snow to make room for a new 200-foot long, 64-foot wide, and 34-foot high garage arch at South Pole Station. and will raise the existing garage arch five feet. All of which calls for more personnel Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, Antarctica Antarctica, its basis of claim, and its commit- than ever before. rom the sky, the first visible sign of ment to conduct cutting-edge scientific Dave Fischer, Antarctic Support FmanÕs presence at the South Pole is a research there.Ó AssociatesÕ South Pole Station Manager, treats silver dome glistening in the spectral Antarctic Thus regarded as the most visible symbol the station like a race car, red-lining the light. Up close, it looks like a massive globe, of AmericaÕs presence in Antarctica, engine for maximum performance while close- covered to the high latitudes in snow, reveal- Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station, so named ly monitoring all functions. ÒI want to push ing only its bald, glistening cap. for the first two explorers to reach the Pole, the limit and see what we can do,Ó said Completed in 1975 and designed to house has come to the end of its 20-year design life. Fischer. ÒBut I donÕt want the system to 18 men in the winter and 33 in the summer, Several primary aspects of the stationÕs infra- break.Ó the South Pole Station has come to symbolize structure, including the fuel system and the While Fischer keeps an eye on the big pic- AmericaÕs presence at the South Pole, a site power plant, need replacement. ture, Tom Verville, a New Hampshire native, prized as a scientific platform and a geopoliti- In October, 1997, President Clinton signed is keeping a close eye on the front end of a cal stabilizer. a bill authorizing 70 million dollars for the Caterpillar D-7 bulldozer. In the last few The United States in Antarctica, a 94-page renovation of the South Pole. In addition, weeks, Verville has helped move tons of snow review of the United States Antarctic Program Congress has authorized 25 million for the to make way for a new garage arch. includes a letter from the Department of State South Pole Safety and Environmental Upgrade ÒItÕs a mountain of snow,Ó said Verville. which summarizes AmericaÕs interest in the currently being carried out. Both projects ÒThe depressing part is that it is a never-end- South Pole. ÒUnited States presence at the leave John Rand, the National Science ing game. There are days when you think South Pole Station demonstrates the United Foundation Project Engineer for the South youÕll never get it all done.Ó States commitment to assert its rights in Pole, with the challenge of a lifetime. ThatÕs a concern on the minds of many ÒI canÕt imagine a more severe construc- South Pole workers as they race against the

S ANTARCT TE IC A P The Antarctic Sun, part of the United T R tion environment,Ó said Rand, a veteran with S O weather and time. ÒWeÕre about 20 flights D G E R T I A N M States Antarctic Program, is funded by U more than 20 years of cold-weather construc- ★ ★ behind schedule due to the late opening,Ó said ★ ★ the National Science Foundation. ★ ★ ★ ★ tion experience. ÒThere are many constraints ★ ★ Opinions and conclusions expressed in Jerry Marty, The National Science Foundation N A N T O I IO T N A The Sun are not necessarily those of the to the project. We have a very short building AL ND Construction Manager. ÒBut weÕre still plan- S U CIENCE FO Foundation. period each summer; we need to finish pro- Use: Reproduction and distribution is encouraged with ning to get it all done. Things are moving acknowledgement of source and author. jects [each summer] for them to survive the well.Ó Editor: Alexander Colhoun winter; and we are at the tail end of a very If anyone has the experience to lead the Publisher: Valerie Carroll, ASA long logistics train.Ó team, itÕs Marty, whoÕs been involved in the Contributions are welcome. Contact The Sun at Long indeed. The South Pole is arguably [email protected]. In McMurdo, visit our office in United States Antarctic Program off and on Building 155 or dial 2407. the worldÕs most remote outpost. Simply get- Web address: http://www.asa.org ting there is a battle. Four separate flights, ...cont. on page 7 The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 3

he bayous of the south are ing helicopters,Ó said Fouts. Ta long way from Antarctic The 5 maintenance personnel ice, but that hasnÕt stopped PHI Over Antarctica boast a combined 87 years of Louisiana-based Petroleum PHI experience doing just Helicopters, Incorporated (PHI) story by Terri Watson that. from making its mark on this Hawkins also compli- frozen continent. ments the scheduling work of ÒI must admit, when I heard ASA Senior Helicopter that some Louisiana Company got Coordinator Robin Abbott for the Antarctic Helicopter Contract, his companyÕs achievements. I was a bit concerned,Ó remem- ÒItÕs a real team effort. She bers Robin Abbott, ASAÕs Senior matches the right load with Helicopter Coordinator. ÒThey the right helo, coordinates a photo by Ed Sangurima assured me that these guys had complex series of pickups flown all over the world. It has and drop-offs and keeps the worked out well.Ó helicopters moving and work- PHI is the worldÕs largest and ing.Ó Four other ASA most experienced helicopter oper- Helicopter Coordinators pro- ator. Boasting 315 aircraft, almost vide cargo and passenger 2000 employees, 45 domestic and handling duties, keeping up 11 foreign bases, it currently flies with the daily details that let about a quarter million hours a the bigger plan work. year. Since its founding in 1949, Flying in Antarctica has PHI has operated in 39 countries similarities with PHIÕs home and flown over 8.5 million hours state of Louisiana. ÒFlying in with an enviable safety record. PHI helicopters are a familiar sight above McMurdo; but without the unheralded work of a dedicated the hot, humid Gulf summer, They currently provide helicopter group of mechanics working on this helicopter, these helos would never get off the ground. power is as much an issue as services to the National Science up on top (on the plateau or PHI mechanics that deployed in WINFLY (the Foundation as a contractor similar to ASA. high peaks) here,Ó says Hawkins. ÒWeather is first flight period after the winter) and per- weather wherever you go. ItÕs harsh here, we Taking over a mission performed from formed all checks and maintenance on the air- donÕt take it lightly, but as long as we adhere 1955 until the end of summer 1996 by the U.S. craft. PHI holds an admirable fleetwide aircraft to minimums and use good judgment, we Navy, PHIÕs contract is the first of its kind readiness rate of 98%. PHI Maintenance always have an out.Ó awarded to a civilian helicopter company. In Manager Everett Fouts says the key to that their second year of operation out of success is the support from the companyÕs ItÕs a job the PHI team seems to enjoy. McMurdo, they provided transport for over 50 headquarters. PHIÕs worldwide maintenance When asked why he keeps coming back, pilot projects, 650 scientists and workers, and all of support system handles much record keeping Richard Dipboye echoes the sentiments of the associated cargo to field camps within 150 and supply problems. ÒIt lets the mechanic many of us when he smiles an answer: ✹ nautical miles of McMurdo. TheyÕve also pro- spend his time on what heÕs supposed to, fix- ÒAdventure.Ó vided round-the-clock Search And Rescue (SAR) coverage for the USAP and Antarctica New Zealand. The transition from civilian to military went smoothly last year despite cutting back on the number of pilots and support staff. Experience contributes a lot. The seven pilots in McMurdo bring thousands of hours of experience along with them. Of seven PHI pilots, four are here for their second year. ÒItÕs what we like to do,Ó remarks Jack Hawkins, PHIÕs Program Manager. ÒWe enjoy it, but its a long time away from home,Ó he continues. ÒQuite a few PHI pilots were interested in flying here, but the requirements were a stopper for many of them.Ó 1500 hours total helicopter time, 200 of which must be in mountainous terrain is specified in the contract that NSF holds with PHI. ÒItÕs hard to find anyone except ex-military pilots with that kind of timeÓ said Hawkins. Six of the seven PHI pilots are ex-military. Hawkins is also quick to credit the five 4 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun Women in Did You Know... by Brenda Joyce

Antarctica: A Scott sledge was used to haul food in a blizzard in New Zealand in 1939. The sledge Self Health is the Key was used originally on an expedition to the South Pole and was an exhibit for 26 years in by Carol Savage, Nurse at Mac General a museum in Dunedin. It was used to carry food to a radio station isolated by the worst snowstorm in the cityÕs history. The rescuers got within a quarter of a mile of the station and were met by the station staff on a hill overlooking Dunedin.

Cows came to Antarctica with Byrd. In 1933, Admiral Byrd took three Guernseys aboard the Jacob Ruppert supply ship to provide fresh milk for the expedition. They required sand and straw for bedding and a two-year supply of hay, beet pulp, grain and brand. At Little America there was a Cow Barn complete with an electric milking machine. One cow contacted frostbite aboard ship on the return voyage and had to be destroyed. The cattle returned after 22,000 miles of sea travel with a new bull calf chris- tened ÒIcebergÓ, born just outside of the Antarctic circle.

Shackleton trained for Antarctic expeditions in Norway. Camping at Lake Finse in 1914, the explorer tested his air-propelled photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by sledge, motor crawler and round tents on the Between her martial arts classes and days spent skiing, Erika Kassop, a McMurdo resident, keeps busy and nearby glacier. healthy while living in McMurdo. Nathaniel B. Palmer became a trader ithout cooking for ourselves, dri- hol intake can affect choices we make and in China. After ÔdiscoveringÕ Antarctica, the Wving in commuter traffic or even also depress our immune system. young whaling Captain went on to become a cleaning our own bathrooms, Antarctica can The key then, is working to prevent sick- merchant, designer and owner of some of the still be a harsh place to live. Many women ness before it happens. greatest clipper ships involved in the China are aware of stress and its effect on our bod- Impact to body, mind and spirit is multi- trade. ies while living in the United States, but the factorial, and strongly influenced by our factors affecting stress levels and how to deal nutritional choices. For example, Scott's wife sculpted statues of the with stress are somewhat different in Premenstrual Syndrome symptoms and explorer. One is in Christchurch, New Antarctica. depression can be affected by our intake of Zealand and the other is in England at Environmental, emotional, and physical carbohydrates, protein, and fat. Nutrition is Waterloo Place. She also produced a landmark stress impact individual health. just one factor that helps regulate our health. bronze statue of E.A. Wilson, the Artist and Acknowledging what is stressful will allow Imbalance of work, play and rest can create Zoologist who died with Scott on the Great you to make changes toward optimum health. susceptibility to cold viruses, muscle tension Ice Barrier in March, 1912. WilsonÕs monu- Some stress is unique to Antarctica, including and sometimes leads to accidents. ment stands in on the Promenade in working in extreme temperatures, living with The galley offers a selection of nutrients Cheltenham, his birthplace. noise of heavy equipment and machinery, and each of which need to be eaten in balanced Kennels built by Scott for his sled dogs lack of personal space. Work related pressures amounts. While fresh food isnÕt always avail- are compounded by fatigue and potential for able, avoid substitutions with all too easy-to- can still be visited in Lyttelton, New Zealand. injury. find sweets. Quail Island, near the head of Lyttelton Harbor, was used as a quarantine station for Spiritual and emotional stress may The absorption of the foods you eat is dogs and ponies by both Scott and Shakleton involve taxed interpersonal relationships, iso- influenced by exercise, another important lation and loneliness. In addition, high alco- prior to departure to Antarctica. ...cont. on page 9 The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 5

alternative, one that Astrophysics ...cont. from page 1 Mrozek dispatches with ÒEight years ago we set up our observato- common sense budget talk. ry on the snow, nailed a floor down, set up our ÒWorking here costs one- telescopes beside a preway heater and took tenth of one-percent of a measurements,Ó said Stark. Conditions have satellite mission,Ó said changed dramatically. Mrozek. ÒYou just canÕt Today the South Pole boasts a growing beat that.Ó Other drawbacks astronomical observation platform, enhanced to space-born technology this season with the completion of the Viper are time and size. telescope observatory, rounding out a team of Putting a telescope into three scopes situated at the Pole. ViperÕs quar- space can take from 10-15 ters, elevated on stilts to limit snow build-up, years, during which time are the envy of many a South Pole worker. the technology is ÔfrozenÕ With its carpeted floors, central heating and in the launch vehicle due to skylight windows, the new facility is as hand- payload constraints. At the some as it is cutting edge. South Pole, key telescope ViperÕs presence at South Pole is an indi- elements can be replaced or cation of things to come as astronomers upgraded with the latest worldwide begin to appreciate the potential for technology over the sum- ground-breaking research in Antarctica. ÒA mer season. In addition, decade ago our goal was simply to prove it telescope size is severely was possible to operate a telescope in the win- limited on space missions, ter,Ó said Stark. ÒWeÕve succeeded unequivo- while Antarctic instruments cally.Ó have few size constraints. What makes the South Pole so special for By his own admission, astronomical research is as starkly obvious as Mrozek considers the the Antarctic winter: it is cold, it is dark and it Spirex telescope, which is isolated. fills a canvas covered structure the size of a typical In other words, the atmosphere above the American living room, South Pole is nearly transparent, allowing a modest in size. WhatÕs significantly greater amount of light waves remarkable about the instru- Matt Newcomb, a recent computer science and math graduate of Carnegie through to earth than most other geographic Mellon University, stands inside the new Viper telescope observatory plat- ment, however, is what it locations. That doesnÕt mean Stark and his fel- form. can see. ÒDown here the low researchers will be getting a better tan. them. This is a sign of an advanced field of sky is so much darker, it glows so much more The vast majority of this light is not visi- study.Ó faintly, even a pea-shooter like this can do ble. Contrary to popular opinion, astronomy high quality astronomical research.Ó All of which has scientists like Stark, does not always entail a bearded scientist Mrozek and Sharp hankering for a bigger Pea shooter or not, Spirex has drawn a tal- looking through a small viewfinder and pan- piece of glass. Ten meters in diameter, the mir- ented team of researchers to the desert-like ning the galaxy. ror of a world class observatory would almost Pole. In reality, astronomical research is carried certainly reveal secrets to the origins of the With nothing but a tweed jacket and a t- out across the electromagnetic spectrum, from universe. shirt reading ÔData WranglersÕ between him shorter wavelengths just above visible light, to For the uninitiated, itÕs not an easy con- and 30 below (Celsius) temperatures, Dr. longer wavelengths, such as millimeter light, cept to comprehend, but the essence is this: Nigel Sharp, an astronomer from the National which is similar to a radio wave. astronomers interested in the creation and Optical Astronomy Observatory in Tuscon, The point is simply that different dynamics of the universe have to look out into Arizona, heads outside to speak with his asso- researchers often look at the same phenome- space as far as they can. The further out they ciate, Mrozek, as he dismantles Spirex. non, but on different wavelengths, therefore look, the further back in time they are view- ÒWe should be able to see more stars than building a greater understanding of the coming. Give or take a billion years, Stark dreams ever before,Ó explained Sharp as he made his plete picture. At the South Pole, the Spirex of exploring the first seven billion years after way up to the roof that Spirex calls home. telescope searches a band of light in the near the Big Bang, which occurred 15 billion years ÒBut what weÕre really trying to understand infrared zone while Viper and the Astro tele- ago. are the details of star formation.Ó scope search the submillimeter and millimeter For that heÕll need a world class telescope, Astrophysical research, while new to the ranges respectively. which he hopes is no longer a pipe dream. South Pole, has an ancient tradition. Most of According to Stark, the only rival to the ÒCARAÕs (Center for Astrophysical the basic structures of the universe are under- South Pole observatory is located atop 14,000- Research in Antarctica) mission was to stood, leading astronomers into more and foot Mauna Kea in Hawaii, and even there, demonstrate the quality of this site and the fea- more specialized fields within their own disci- observations can be made only ten percent of sibility of working here,Ó said Stark. ÒWeÕve pline. ÒThe field is so subdivided,Ó said the time due to moisture in the air. Mrozek. ÒThere are nearly as many objects of That leaves space missions as the only interest as there are astronomers to study ...cont. on page 7 6 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

outstanding. This has been very favorable to the departure of the LMG to Punta Arenas. An early research community who depend on good December departure is anticipated. weather for boating operations. Along with the Following successful sea trials the LMG fromAntarcticstationsand ships good weather there are hoards of new animals in will transit southbound to replace the ABEL-J. the area. Our snow cover is melting off very fast The ABEL-J is the recently chartered vessel that now exposing a completely different landscape is transporting scientists, staff, and cargo McMurdo Station by Stan Wisneski of rock and soil. between Punta Arenas, Chile, and Palmer Station The move from the Ice Runway to until the arrival of the LMG. To date, the ABEL- Williams Field was completed on 6 December J has successfully transited to Palmer Station and Ða week earlier than scheduled due to the deteri- R/V Nathaniel B. Palmer has sailed into COPA and Cape Shirreff, thus orating conditions of the transition leading to the by Janet Barnes and Marian Moyher allowing camp openings. sea ice. Moving the buildings took approximate- The NBP research vessel has been busy ly 12 hours to complete. towing the Sea Soar in a grid pattern with hopes Christchurch, NZ by Brian Stone Preparations are under way for the arrival of examining patterns of the phytoplankton of the R/V Nathaniel B. Palmer (NBP) on or bloom conditions using this type of mesoscale Dr. Polly Penhale, the Program Manager about 16 December. The NBP will nose into the survey. for Polar Biology and Medicine and the sec- ice edge as close to McMurdo as possible. All Several people have been lucky enough to ond of the four National Science Foundation personnel and cargo will be transferred by heli- see Orcas recently. Very little is known about the personnel acting as NSF Representative, New copter. Killer whales in the Antarctic. They, along with Zealand, will be returning to Washington, the Leopard Seal, are the top predators. They are D.C. shortly before Christmas. Christchurch found all around the continent and tend to follow operations will temporarily be without an act- South Pole Station by David Fischer their prey. Killer whales usually live in groups or ing NSF Rep. NZ during the holidays until Lots of volunteers helped prepare dinner pods numbering from 5 -20. Sometimes these Bill Bryant from the NSF Division of and desserts all week as South Pole celebrated a pods combine into groups of 100 or more. The Contracts, Policy and Oversight assumes the traditional Thanksgiving with a traditional din- pods exhibit a high degree of group cooperation role just after the New Year. ner, including an elite corps of wineservers who in activities such as hunting. Squid, fish, seals, The National Guard Bureau has poured wine purchased by the stationÕs grantees. penguins, birds, and even other whales make up announced the selection of five additional South Pole is reaching significant mile- their diet. personnel for Air National Guard Detachment stones in a busy season. ASA completed the con- Last month, during a cruise of the U.S. 13, Christchurch, New Zealand, leaving only trol and pump rooms for VIPER, and turned the Joint Global Ocean Flux Study (JGOFS), the the Detachment Commander position yet to buildings over to the science group during the NBP received images from a newly operational be named. These additional personnel will be week. Despite the late station opening, these pro- satellite called Sea-viewing Wide Field-of-view joining LtCol Richard Saburro, the Vice jects have been completed ahead of schedule. In Sensor (SeaWiFS). From slight changes in the Commander/Operations Officer in addition the VIPER communications and com- ocean's color as noted in the satellite images, Christchurch during the first quarter of 1998. puter installation is complete. researchers can locate concentrations and types The selectees are: Capt. Dorine LeBlanc, PICO continues setting up camp to drill of marine phytoplankton (microscope plants) liv- Executive Officer; SMSgt Art Bleich, Aircraft three more holes for the AMANDA project; ing in the water column. Maintenance Superintendent; MSgt Robert CARAÕs numerous projects are underway; and When a promising site was located recently, LaFaye, Logistics Plans NCO; MSgt Paul S-208Õs effort to analyze halos and ice crystals is the Chief Scientist on the cruise, Walker Smith, McMillan, Logistics Supply Superintendent, in full-swing. adjusted the cruise schedule to sample these and SSgt Carol Gehm, Information Manager. Snowclearing of the existing garage arch areas. Sampling is carried out to understand the The seven personnel from Detachment 13 will and building a pad for the new garage arch is processes and conditions that allow the phyto- support OPERATION DEEP FREEZE flight complete. Core samples of the new garage arch plankton to thrive. The data will also be invalu- operations in Christchurch following the area indicated the snow was not dense or uni- able in assisting scientists to interpret future departure of the US Navy in March 1998. form enough to begin setting the footers for the satellite images. SeaWiFS is part of NASA's new arch, so a good deal more work was needed Mission to Planet Earth, and you can visit their USCGC Polar Star to build this pad. web site to see some of the current images. The by LCDR Steve Wheeler address is: http://seawifs.gsfc.nasa.gov/SEAW- IFS.html. A handful of researchers will ride the USCGC POLAR STAR down from Hobart to Palmer Station by Ron Nugent R/V Laurence M. Gould study the population, size and colony distribution December will be a busy month for the sta- of Adelie penguins and the polarization and dis- tion. We expect visits from four ships this month: by David McWilliams and Dawn Scarborro tribution of sunlight. And then, with helicopters, one resupply ship and three cruise ships. We are The LMG went through it's science sea tri- they will work on Beaufort Island, Franklin also preparing for the early January arrival of the als on December 5th and 6th. A total of 36 hours Island, Cape Irizar and Cape Roberts. The R/V Laurence M. Gould (LMG). The station was spent at sea testing all the science equipment POLAR STAR is expected to arrive in the Ross will be receiving cargo from the Gould and some aboard the vessel. The majority of the ship's sci- Sea to start 1997-98 Antarctic operations, some- of the grantees now working on station will ence systems were functional and all the people time around the day after Christmas and begin board the ship and continue their research on the in Marine Science were quite pleased with how work on the ice channel to Hut Point. Long Term Ecological Research cruise. the science suite functioned. There are still out- The weather in the past few weeks has been standing contract issues which are delaying the ... cont. on page 7 The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 7

Rebuilding the Pole ...cont. from page 2 since 1969. ÒI was part of the team that finished this station,Ó said Marty, tapping his desk. ÒAnd I hope to be here when the new one is finished.Ó The South Pole Modernization Program, which became a reality with ClintonÕs signature last month, will see the construction of a space age facility, complete with berthing for 110 people (men and women this time), science facilities, a greenhouse, a medical center and an arts and crafts room as well as other facilities. For now, however, Marty, Rand, Fischer and the South Pole summer staff have more pressing concerns, like finding beds for 190 people as construction and science move forward. With 41 years of South Pole experience to draw upon, the hearty few that accept the challenges of living and working at the South Pole are sure to succeed. ✹ Due for completion in fiscal year 2005, the new South Pole Station facility has a space age design and will be elevated off the ground to minimize snow build-up.

Updates ...cont. from page 6 Astrophysics ...cont. from page 5 Positioning Systems),Ó explained Stark. ÒNow you can buy a $200 satellite dish for your ASA, Denver by Jim Chambers done that and more. This is a turning point in home.Ó Antarctic Astronomy.Ó Much of the emphasis of the Denver Clearly however, South Pole astrophysical Antarctic support staff remains centered on Clearly turning points have their price tag. research is driven by a more innate desire for expediting procurements for the annual A ten meter telescope and its associated costs knowledge. ÒIt is the question of the origin of resupply ship. Loading of the vessel at Port would run close to 23 million dollars. ÒWeÕre us,Ó said Dr. Jim Jackson, assistant director of Hueneme remains on schedule to start on 4 willing to call it the Bill Gates telescope,Ó said CARA. ÒWhere do we come from? It is the January 98 with a scheduled sailing date of 9 Stark with a chuckle. ÒItÕs a bargain at twice ultimate history book. What is in our bodies January 98. The R/V LAURENCE M the price.Ó was once in the stars.Ó GOULD sea trials continue with an anticipat- Skeptics may question this allocation of Describing the galaxies as a work of art ed departure date from Louisiana to resources, but Stark is well-armed with a reply Ðan organic and interconnected worldÐ Jackson Antarctica of 8 December 97. to those disinclined to support science. sounds more like a poet than a scientist, but his ASA received the first cycle of funding ÒResearch pushed the envelope of technology,Ó vision and desire to understand the universe is for the South Pole Station Modernization said Stark. ÒWork that astronomical researchers one that may eventually turn more of our sci- (SPSM) project. The SPSM project follows were doing 25 years ago led to the develop- ence fiction dreams into science facts. ✹ immediately on the heals of the new power ment of the World Wide Web and GPS (Global plant, garage, and upgraded fuel storage projects. Pick daisies every day and National Science Foundation by Guy Guthridge keep Antarctica clean The 43 Antarctic Treaty nations contain 66 percent of the world's population, and they generate 79 percent of its economic output, a new NSF tally showed. Of the 43, the 26 consultative ones--those with a vote at Antarctic Treaty meetings--represent 61 percent of the world's population and 72 percent of its economy. Ten of the 26 are smaller than the average nation, and six of the 26 earn less per capita than the world average. These data, updated from time to time, establish again that it's not just the world's privileged few that participate in Antarctic affairs. A country needn't be big and rich to meet the treaty's "substantial scientific activity" threshold for consultative (voting) membership. ✹ 8 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

SkyDivers ...cont. from page 1 ÒSteve is one of those people that will be remembered here in our shop for many years sea level, putting the parachutists nearly eight

because of who he was, he was definitely one of

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by Mark Perry wenty buildings were hauled six miles Tfrom the ice runway to Williams (ÒWillyÓ) Field on Saturday, December 6th. The ice runway closed about a week earlier than usual this year due to warmer temperatures making the ice weaker and unsafe to hold the weight of the planes. The operation was completed in one day. According to Don Ferris, ASA Senior Area Manager, many departments throughout McMurdo were responsible in helping with the move, including Fleet Operations, the Vehicle Maintenance facility, Fuels, the power plant, and Information Systems. ÒIts a daisy chain affect throughout the communityÓ NSFA Deputy Commander Chuck Young said. Three runways are used throughout the year. The ice runway operates from approximately the first week of October to around the middle of December. Willy field is used from December until the station closes at the end of February, and Pegasus is used in January, February and August. photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 9

self health ...cont. from page 4 symptoms but women can add to the ground- work for health with adequate sleep, diet, -- EDITORIALS -- facet in maintaining your overall health. exercise and attention to spirit. To a great Here at the Antarctic Sun we strive for descrip- Exercise provides chemicals to the brain that extent we have control over our bodyÕs tive writing. Whether it be the blonde hair of a increase feelings of well being. In McMurdo, health. woman (Antarctic Sun, Nov. 29, 1997 Pg.7, hiking or skiing the Castle Rock loop is an These suggestions are a place to start to Paragraph 4); strands of gray hair running over a excellent way to get outside and revitalize mans chin (Antarctic Sun Nov.1, 1997, Pg.14, do your part. Sometimes women become ill Paragraph 9); or slender ice cores drilled from your spirit. even with their best efforts to take care of beneath the ocean (Antarctic Sun Oct.18, 1997, While exercise is vital to good heath, themselves. Remember to nurture yourself Pg.5, Paragraph 11); we feel powerful writing cap- other daily choices can have a strong impact tures the imagination. We welcome your thoughts with support, not criticism. Take small steps at the Antarctic Sun. as well. One suggestion is taking vitamin toward change. supplements. Alcohol, caffeine and birth con- The staff at Mac General is available for [W]hen I was reading the November 29, trol pills each increase your need for B vita- prevention of illness as well as treatment. If 1997 issue there were two references that mins while cuts and sores may heal faster you are having difficulty sleeping, feelings of gave me pause. I wish to call your attention with additional vitamin C supplement. depression, fatigue, experience an assault, or to the Nematode article by Alexander Balancing all these ideas with adequate have questions about menstrual, sexual, or Colhoun, page 1, paragraph 1: Ò...Amy sleep will round out your health on the ice. breast health, call or come by the clinic. Treonis, a blonde-haired graduate student, Sleep will come easier if you darken your Colds are best treated as you would at ...Ó Also, the Happy Camper article by room early, an hour or more before you plan home in the states. If you have unusual Alexander Colhoun, page 7, paragraph 4, to end the day. Finally, exercise earlier in the symptoms or concerns about the duration of Ò...said Leah Thompson, a red-haired 22 evening rather than right before bed, and cut your cold virus, feel welcome to come by the year-old world traveler with an alluring down on alcohol and caffeine consumption, clinic or give us a call. smile.Ó all of which can keep you awake. Hours at Mac General: M-F 0800-1100, Now, I wouldn't describe myself as an Illness is a reminder to pay attention to 12:30-3:00, and 6:00-8:00. Telephone: 2551. unreasonable person, but to me these sort of our bodies and create balance in our lives. If ✹ references to women in Alexander's articles you do get sick, medications may relieve seem gratuitous at best and definitely on their way to being condescending or even sexist. Things that made these statements stand out in my mind were that there was MCMURDO SOUNDINGS: more than one occurrence and that none of We drown in information while thirsting for A locally produced news the men in these articles were described in magazine, covering science such physical terms. knowledge. ÐHugh Arscott and science support will re-air Katy Quinn Monday, December 15th at 6:30. Cambridge, MA

Hunting For Science: t eleven p.m. last Tuesday night, having served as an executive officer for AJohn Hunt found himself sitting the Mathematical and Physical Sciences Office Of Polar Programs Director quietly in the South Pole library. He was- division of the National Science Visits the Continent nÕt there to conduct research. True to Foundation. An Arkansas native with a form, AntarcticaÕs unpredictable weather mild mannered voice and a wide, disarm- story and photo by Alexander Colhoun played its hand, delaying HuntÕs return to ing grin, HuntÕs career has focused on the McMurdo for several hours. complex world of chemistry. No one, not even the acting director Speaking as a researcher himself, of the Office Of Polar Programs (OPP), Hunt stressed how fortunate scientists escapes Mother NatureÕs grasp in working at American facilities in Antarctica. Antarctica are. ÒIt seems to me that sci- It was a whirlwind tour for Hunt. On entists working here really get a lot of the ice for five days, he ranged as far as help,Ó said Hunt. ÒI have never seen an the South Pole and as close as the operation supporting science that did it McMurdo Galley to get a first hand feel- better.Ó ing for the Antarctic experience. Joining Hunt on his tour were three ÒThe National Science Foundation members of the National Science Board: Antarctic Program is extremely well Dr. Diana S. Natalicio, Dr. Vera C. Rubin run,Ó said Hunt. ÒAll the individuals I and Dr. Warren M. Washington. Members came into contact with knew their jobs of the board are Presidential appointees well and did them well.Ó who serve in an oversight role for Though this was HuntÕs first visit to National Science Foundation operations. Antarctica, he is no stranger to science, ✹ 10 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

Stitch picking, a method that tends to be more difficult. ÒIt hurtÕs,Ó Frank exclaimed. & Bitch ÒMy arms hurt; my fingers hurt; this is story and photo by Chief Jacqueline Kiel not very relaxing.Ó A standard ÒbitchÓ by new knitters. ickers are picking, throwers are throw- Another subject Ping, new folks are learning, and occa- of conversation is sionally someone is bitching. knitting lore. One These Wednesday evening gatherings, rumor says never know as Stitch And Bitch, are an opportunity knit a sweater for a for folks to work on that special knitting pro- man before he is ject and spend a pleasant evening chatting yours, because he with friendly people. will dump you. Two methods of knitting, picking and Knitting has Dawn Needham gives Joel Frank a few pointers as he learns to knit. ÒIt hurtÕs,Ó throwing, are a typical topic of discussion. been a part of Kelly Frank exclaimed. ÒMy arms hurt; my fingers hurt; this is not very relaxing.Ó Picking is the European way, and tends to be MontgomeryÕs life her talents with anyone who wants to learn. more difficult to learn, while the American for the last seven years. She learned to knit as method of throwing is easier. an exchange student in Sweden, including A new knitter, Anna Meade, a Hazardous You donÕt have to be a knitter to partici- learning to read patterns in Swedish. ÒWhen I Waste worker, learned to knit as a thrower, pate, just show up. Someone will get you got home and bought a pattern in English, I despite her motherÕs efforts to teach her to started. That is exactly what Joel Frank, a had no idea what it said,Ó she said, laughing. pick, although she didnÕt realize that she was a thrower. ÒI just thought I learned it wrong cargo handler at McMurdo Station, did, figur- In 1991, living in the north woods of Ely, until I came here,Ó she said. ing it was time to learn. ÒEverybody in cargo Minnesota, where winters were harsh, Dawn on the night shift knows how to knit,Ó Frank Needham, was an environmental education Working on the first of a pair of socks, said. teacher by day, and a student of knitting by Terri McLain wasnÕt sure who would be the Frank is learning the European method of night. Now a knitting teacher, Dawn shares recipient of the special gift. ÒItÕs kind of like Cinderella,Ó she explained. ÒYou have to go around and find out whose foot itÕs going to fit.Ó Not everyone who shows up knits. Carolyn Doe, a courier, spins thread and yarn while she visits with friends. ÒBecause I like to knit, it sort of made sense to make my own yarn,Ó she said. No one is quite sure when or how Stitch and Bitch started. It seems to have evolved from a group of people who got together some years ago and began sharing patterns, ideas and techniques, and it grew from there. In 1987, when women lived in three jameways connected with a common area, McMurdoÕs Knitting Circle, as it was called then, was going strong. This was a time when everyone had a once-a-week liquor ration, and women would get together, drink wine, stitch and

photo by Alexander Colhoun photo by bitch. It hasnÕt changed much. ✹ ÒIt was beach-eriffic baby,Ó said Brian Sundberg of the annual McMurdo beach party. Despite temperatures well below zero, many partyers dressed for the occasion, clad in bikini tops and speedo swimsuits. The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 11

detect. Additionally, passive dogs are trained using food as a reward. MILITARY NEWS: As an aggressive response dog, Sam was YourTurnÐ trained using a rubber tube toy. ÒWe play tug- of-war with it and give him lots of praise,Ó Your questions and comments are welcome here. NavyÕs Top Dog Eckles said. ÒHe comes back for more. We WeÕll publish responses in each issue. Contact us at by Chief Jacqueline Kiel [email protected]. make the job a game.Ó Sam is so well trained, when Eckles by Brenda Joyce e stands 24 inches tall, weighs 65 brings out the training harness, Sam raises Hpounds, is covered head to tail, with his left paw to easily slip into it. This trick Talk about a government waste. Forget about black hair and loves bananas. And, he's the impresses both children and adults alike $500 toilet seats. Why do we buy new equip- top dog of Naval Antarctic Support Unit when Eckles and Sam do demonstrations for ment in the galley, floor dryers for example, (NASU). tour groups. when we work on the worldÕs driest continent? Sam, a nine year-old black labrador During the time Eckles has worked with And what about the new juice dispensers Ðthe retriever and New Zealand native, is the drug Sam, the handler has become very fond of old ones still work fine! dog for NASU in Christchurch, New the dog. ÒHeÕs one of the best dogs IÕve ever Zealand. He has been with the program since worked,Ó he said. ÒThe NavyÕs losing a great he was two years old. ÒEverybody who goes The simple answer to your question on dog,Ó he added, referring to the dogÕs retire- down to Antarctica goes through Sam and floor dryers and new juice machines is person- ment when NASU disestablishes in March. me,Ó said Master At Arms Second Class nel safety. The floors in Building 155 must be A very gentle dog, Sam belies his docili- Richard Eckles, SamÕs current handler. ÒHe swept and mopped several times a day due to ty if you happen by the car he rides in. HeÕll searches passengers luggage, then cargo on the great amount of traffic they receive. Since bark at passersby. ÒHeÕll take ten years off the outgoing aircraft and finally the aircraft we canÕt close down hallways for any length of your life because of this barking,Ó Eckles itself.Ó time, the dryers are used to dry the floors as said, smiling. ÒThatÕs his space.Ó rapidly as possible to minimize the possibility When not working, he is often in train- To prove how gentle Sam really is, of people slipping on them while they are wet. ing. Eckles and Sam train with New Zealand Eckles describes SamÕs banana eating behav- Police and Customs, because they have the The safety of the food service staff is my ior. Eckles peels a bit of the banana at a time, necessary drug training aids. ÒWe donÕt first priority. The new Vitality Juice machines and each time Sam will gently take bite. It maintain the drugs here, New Zealand does- were purchased and installed to increase safety takes Sam only three chomps to finish his nÕt allow it,Ó Eckles said. among the dining facility staff. They are the treat, but they are very careful bites. ÒThat latest state-of-the-art juice dispensers. They Sam was trained as an aggressive way I keep all my fingers,Ó Eckles said, require no open mixing, a health concern, of response dog, thus when he detects one of laughing. juice concentrate and water. A simple plug-in the four drugs heÕs been trained to respond SamÕs time with the Navy is winding three-liter cartridge of juice concentrate and an to, he bites, scratches and barks at the con- down, but donÕt fret, heÕll stay in New empty spigot is back in business. tainer holding the drugs. Zealand where heÕll be quite happy. ÒWe The old machines, although still opera- Aggressive response dogs are different have a home lined up for him,Ó Eckles said. tional, require a person to mix the juice in a from passive response dogs in that passive ÒHeÕs going to be spoiled rotten.Ó ✹ five-gallon milk can. These milk cans are dogs simply sit when they detect drugs, heavy when full approximately 35/40 lbs. explosives, or whatever they are trained to Many of our dining room staff are not used to lifting heavy loads. Handling the old juice cans has caused back injuries to our staff when lifting them to pour the contents into the juice machines not to mention the mess made to the dining room floor and carpeting when they drop one. The old milk cans also take up too much room in the chill box. This has always been a problem for the kitchen staff to work around. Another side benefit of the the three-liter car- tridges is consistency of product. Unlike the old method of free mixing concentrate and water, if handled correctly, you will get the same good tasting product every time.

-thanks to Warren Hoy Photo by SSgt Marlene S. Barry, U.S. Air Force U.S. Photo by SSgt Marlene S. Barry, Sam, a nine-year old black labrador retriever and New Zealand native, sniffs luggage headed for Antarctica in search of drugs. 12 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

WEATHER by George Howard, MAC Weather Washboards in the Sky McMurdo Station, Antarctica arallel ribbons of clouds are a fairly reg- Pular occurrence in the skies over Antarctica. These clouds are known by several names. Two of the most common are ÒwaveÓ and Òlenticular.Ó The first term relates to how the clouds are formed. The second describes the characteristic lens shape of the cloudsÕ cross- section. A number of ingredients, in perfect propor- tion, have to come together in the recipe for wave clouds. Stable air flow, in which parcels of air tend to remain at a fixed level as they move along, is a must. Now add a dash of moisture. Too much moisture yields a solid layer of clouds. Too little generates no cloud at all. The ideal combination is to sandwich a moist layer of air between two drier layers. Now move the alternating dry and moist layers over a mountain at just the right speed. Too slowly, and clouds will just cap the mountains. Too quickly, and the pattern will break down in turbulent chaos. As the layers move up and over the mountains, the air cools causing water droplets (a

cloud) to form within the moist layer. As the air Alexander Colhoun photo by descends on the other side of the mountains, it Caprice Stevenson and Matt Lindell take a break while climbing Castle Rock as wave clouds form downwind warms and evaporates the droplets. In its of Mount Erebus. descent, however, the air dives below the level of its origin. As it rebounds toward equilibrium, it once more over- shoots to form the next cloud in a pattern that resembles the ridges of a washboard. The distance between successive clouds can range any- where from 5 to 25 kilometers. While the up and down drafts associated with these clouds may have aircraft passengers reaching for the air distress bag, those of us on the ground can marvel at the special set of circumstances nature brings together to create these washboards in the sky. Clouds form at the crest of each wave in the undulating airflow over, and downwind of rugged terrain (cross-section view). The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 13

Ask AuntArctica ...advice for staying healthy on the Ice

Aunt Arctica is written by a clinical psychotherapist from Washington state with eight years experience working in individual counseling, specializing in cognitive and transpersonal psychologies for personal growth. Please write with any questions you may have. You need not include your name. All queries will be confidential. Question: I feel lifeÕs challenges are so much more intense down here. In talking with friends of mine last night Ðwe are all in our late 30Õs and 40ÕsÐ I find myself somewhat confused about my direction in life. YouÕd think, as mature adults, we would have it fig- ured out already. Here I am in a seasonal job, not sure where to go from here, no kids, no ÒcareerÓ, I'm ambling as if IÕm in my twenties and fresh out of college! IÕve recently come out of a divorce Ðfinding myself with a freedom IÕm not sure what to do with. In part, itÕs exciting, but itÕs also at times overwhelming. I like to think of life as a series of od of transition is one of great vulnerability. foundations of your spirit and lead you to beginnings and endings. Before you can ItÕs not uncommon to feel confused about greater clarity in your life. successfully move forward, it is important to what to do next. Realizing this makes it pos- 1) Marriage/couples/intimate relations. contemplate what your past has taught you sible to be kinder to oneself while stumbling In this section write down a description of Ðwhat worked for you and what didnÕt. This through this process. the person you would like to be in an inti- reflection will bring greater clarity about Living on the ÔiceÕ, surrounded by peo- mate relationship. Focus mostly on your where you want to be heading in the future. ple living more transient lifestyles, who role. ItÕs helpful to acknowledge that you are have all left something of greater permanen- 2) Friendships. Write down what it moving through a major life passage that cy back home, it is no wonder these feelings means to be a good friend. Describe how requires a crashing down of the structure of instability are intensified. Creative new you would treat these people if you were the you built to contain your dreams. This peri- movement in your life will emerge as you ideal you in these relationships. explore the foundation that your 3) Employment. In this section, describe lifeÕs choices arise from. This is the what type of work you would like to do. Snow Jobs by Ben Mann place where your Ôcore selfÕ What is it about this work that appeals to resides. you? Take some time to explore the 4) Education. If you would like to pur- values that have dictated this deep- sue an education or specialized training est part of you and recognize this write about how this would effect you. may be very different from the 5) Family Relations. Write about the direction someone else has led you type of brother/sister, son/daughter, to believe is ÔcorrectÕ. father/mother you would want to be. One way to better understand 6) Spirituality. IÕm not necessarily refer- the nature of your own Ôfounda- ring to organized religion. This might be as tionsÕ is to write out a narrative of simple as communing with nature, or as for- your values. This exercise of mal as participation in a group. assessing your own beliefs will help 7) Physical well-being. Write about you separate your own characteris- maintaining your health through sleep, diet tics and those of the transition. This and exercise. will help you to assess how much the transition has altered your roles, relationships, and life assumptions. It is important that you write Chapel down what you would value if there were nothing in your way. Explore of the what you care about and what you Snows would want in the best situations Ðimagine that magic happened and Sundays: that anything is possible. Catholic Service 9:30 AM Bearing these thoughts in mind Protestant Service 11:00 AM Me and the boys have been talking... and until we Wednesdays: see winter-over contracts, youÕre stuck in Jersey. as you complete the value questions following should help you find the Prayer and Praise at 7:30 PM 14 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

around and tried to tow it. No sooner hours time. Then it would take another eight had we towed it out than it got stuck hours to reach us in a slow moving bulldozer again. We were in a bind. called a Challenger. The Traverse After a group huddle and a radio It could have been worse. With nice talk with MacOps, communications weather, a box of peanut butter and jelly sand- central in McMurdo, we decided to wiches and survival bags, we werenÕt con- That DidnÕt leave the troubled Delta behind and cerned about freezing or starving. continue on in the other, nicknamed Eventually we contacted MacOps, and story and photo by Chuck Kramer Flipper. We loaded our survival bags after 20 minutes of repeating our messages, and Extreme Cold Weather gear onto they finally understood our situation and told eparting McMurdo for Black Island in the working Delta and trekked on. us to hang tight for further instructions. Dtwo massive Deltas vehicles, our A half hour later we entered the Dark I had replaced the drive shaft on a three-person team felt invincible. In just a few Zone. This is an area where there is little to no Triumph Spitfire so, I took a close look and hours we would be humbled by fate and gain a radio communications with McMurdo because decided to give it a try on a 20-ton Delta. new appreciation for the toll exacted by the it is on the opposite side of Black Island. We There was a tool box on board so, we climbed Antarctic environment on these seemingly checked in one last time under and in about 30 minutes indestructible vehicles. before heading into radio I had replaced the drive had removed the drive shaft and silence. At that point, With tires standing five feet tall, Delta 6x6 shaft on a Triumph Spitfire reattached it to the rear axle. We flatbed trucks are considered reliable beasts of though down to one Delta, were feeling pretty proud of so, I took a close look and burden, capable of traversing through condi- things seemed fine. ourselves as I tightened the last tions few other land vehicles can muster. At 3:30 p.m. Flipper hit decided to give it a try on of the bolts. I crawled out from Our mission called for just such a vehicle. deep snow and we started a 20-ton Delta. under the Delta to find grimac- We were headed for Black Island, McMurdoÕs Ôcrabbing outÕ when we ing faces. satellite communications ÒI think we have bigger site 30 miles across problems,Ó said Terry Billings. McMurdo Sound. The He was right. The weld that trip by land, however, is held the axle in place was bro- a 70-mile loop which ken off. If we tried to move, the goes behind Black Island drive shaft would just pop out to avoid dangerous sea again. ice. Another 20 minutes of gar- An exposed traverse, bled transmissions followed and no matter how you slice we patched together their mes- it, the flags en-route sage, ÒHello... you.... 30 min- were stripped bamboo utes... you.... McMurdo...Ó A poles with remnants of helicopter was en route. flags tied to their tops. This was a much better Many were splintered alternative than spending the and bent over due to the night and waiting a long time 100 plus mph winds that for a ride home. We staged our blast through the area. I bags and equipment about 100 was glad to be safe in a meters from the disabled delta Delta. and laughed that we had sabo- A Delta is steered by taged two Deltas to get a heli- hydraulics that link the copter ride. cab and bed of the truck. Alexander Colhoun photo by Forty minutes later we All six tires have power Shaena Muldoon and Terry Billings take stock of their predicament as they realize one of two loaded into a helicopter and to them, but they are not DeltaÕs they were driving to Black Island is unable to continue. enjoyed a very scenic flight moved by the steering across the Ross Ice Shelf, Black wheel, the cab is. In deep snow, this steering looked back and saw that the back wheels Island, the Ice Runway and back to McMurdo. makes the Delta move like a crab. werenÕt engaging. I climbed out to take a look. It was 5:45 p.m. The drive to where the last The drive shaft from the first set of rear After four hours and a mile of climbing Delta broke down took seven hours, the flight wheels to the second set was hanging unat- up the Ross Ice shelf, we hit snow that made took 20 minutes. Put me on a helicopter any tached from the rear axle. us look like a pair of very lost, over-sized sea day. creatures. Another 30 minutes of crawling Now this was a pinch: no communications and no vehicles. passed before it was apparent something was Follow up: Both Deltas delivered their cargo wrong. We'd have to wait at least ten hours for to Black Island and have been returned to We got out and realized the rear left wheel another traverse to come get us. MacOps McMurdo. Radios in the all Deltas have been didn't have power, causing the right side to dig wouldnÕt send out a search and rescue mission reprogrammed to a radio repeater which elimi- in and get stuck. We pulled the lead Delta until we failed to report in as scheduled in two nates the Dark Zone behind Black Island. The Antarctic Sun December 13, 1997 15 Perspectives Tragedy ast Sunday I woke not to my alarm, Lbut to the sound of excited voices outside my door. A group of six skydivers and their staff had arrived to make a jump over the South Pole. Through my window, I could see them removing excess weight from their Unveiledby Laurell Toeppen plane and doing a photo shoot. My heart raced with excitement as I put While waiting for instructions, communi- arose, anger. A plane had come to our home, on all my extreme weather gear, I knew at cations made the announcement, ÒWe have let six passengers out at an altitude of 18,000 Ð25F it could be a long, cold wait. I jogged confirmed three dead.Ó ft. and three fell to their death. Friends out to the plane just as the final hero shots I decided to return to the staging site, to responded, dug broken bodies out of four-foot were being taken. I almost called out for offer my assistance. I assumed the jumpers graves of snow and then placed the remains them to wait, but assumed I would take pho- would have heard the news via the radio by into body bags. These friends lives are now tos of them later, after the jump. In the shad- now. I was wrong. altered, and our community is in pain. ow of itÕs wing, I could just barely see their Arriving back at the site was surreal and A small group of friends decide to purge smiling faces. time took on new dimensions. The three our tears by watching the move, ÒInto Thin A crowd of 30 people had formed by now jumpers were standing, looking outward at a Air, Death on EverestÓ. Following the movie and we made our way across the runway to a scene in the distance. Their twin otter had we discussed the value of adventure. bright orange tarp they had laid out as a tar- landed about a mile away with a spryte, and Although adventure is a big part of our lives, get. We were given some brief instructions, snowmobiles beside it. I couldnÕt help thinking of how thoughtless it and then we watched. The silence was broken by occasional can be. Not only to loved ones, but to bystanders, as well. The plane climbed in a wide circle above conversation. Deciding to let the scene unfold us, through the clear sky. As it climbed I by itself I said nothing. I was integrated into A quote of Tom Robbins fit my mood at thought back to my own experiences of jump- the scene and found myself involved in small the moment: ÒYou risked your life, but what ing from a perfectly good plane. talk. else have you ever risked? Have you ever risked disapproval? Have you ever risked a As I was waiting to jump, I thumbed How odd. In time, the question I dreaded came from the American, ÒDo you have any belief? I see nothing particularly courageous through a skydivers magazine and with in risking one's life. So you lose it, you go to shock, studied the largest obituary section I information?Ó Slowly, considering how to word the news, I regretfully said, ÒYes, I do.Ó your heroÕs heaven and every thing is milk had ever seen. Later, I followed my friend out and honey Ôtil the end of time, right? You get of the plane, for her first jump. The Norwegians turned and the three formed a semi-circle facing me. ÒComms has con- your reward and suffer no earthly conse- Not until I was safe on the ground did I quences. ThatÕs not courage. Real courage is learn that her primary chute did not open firmed three deadÓ. The American quickly responded, ÒWe risking something that you have to keep on properly. She had to pull her backup chute. living with, real courage is risking something She had sprained her ankle, and we felt no expected thatÓ. What more can be said at times like this? They turned from the scene that might force you to rethink your thoughts need to pursue that sport again. and suffer change and stretch consciousness.Ó These thoughts filled my head as the out in the snow field and broke off into their own worlds. None of their eyes were skyward In time this will be another memory of plane climbed higher into the sky. I was not my home at the Pole. In time we will pass very attentive to the planes progress. It still now. The moment was broken when the through all the stages of grieving. In time I seemed too far south and downwind from the will be doing grand adventures. But for now I target. I was waiting for what I thought would jumpers were invited into the dome for warmth and food. Solemnly, as they walked, am pausing and considering my values, be the right position, but then someone called responsibilities and mortality. ✹ out that they saw a chute. they drew one another close, until they were Slowly, a billowing blue chute came walking arm over shoulder, in a towards us. As it approached we could see hug. Their lives now having a two people Ðit was the tandem jumpers. They tie that was quite unwelcome. landed about 400 ft. south of the target and Less than five hours after about 50 ft. from our housing. I watched with their plane arrived, it left our concern because there was no movement. home. Slowly they righted themselves. We saw no Our home. Most people other chutes and assumed they had not who have heard of this station jumped yet. don't think of it as someoneÕs It was then that the radio calls began. A home. It's a station, or a voice from the communications center asked, research facility, or a work ÒWhere are the chutes? There should be camp, or just a tourist attrac- five.Ó Someone answered, ÒThere is only tion, but we were home, and one.Ó Now frantic, the voice exclaimed, ÒBut our home had been hit by there should be five!Ó After a number of these tragedy. exchanges, a stern voice said, ÒIf there are We spent the rest of the day any other chutes, me and about 50 other peo- working through what had hap- ple are blind!Ó pened. We talked about the A third jumper was found. His backup emotions, we asked those who chute had self-deployed at 800 ft., but the responded for details, we theo- photo by David Martin others were still missing. A search began and rized why the chutes didn't Just moments before their fateful flight above the South Pole, mem- the trauma team was summoned, so I went to open, and we cried. bers of the Adventure Network South Pole skydiving expedition pose the appointed meeting place in the dome. Another valid emotion for a hero shot. Ray Miller, top left, Hans Rusack, second from left, and Steve Mulholland, front row center, did not survive. 16 December 13, 1997 The Antarctic Sun

side the station. But in the end there isnÕt much John Paul McMullan. John Paul to look at, its just the little things which are McMullan, better known as ÔJPÕ is an Antarctic beautiful, like patterns in the snow.Ó veteran with five working seasons under his Lisa and Ken Lobe. Lisa Lobe and her belt before his latest run. Like many long- Profile husband Ken Lobe, hailing from Cordova, timers, JP started as a general assistant, or GA, Alaska, passed their silver wedding anniversary and worked his way through the system, from pending three consecutive seasons at at the South Pole over the winter. ÒIt was just Palmer Station and eventually to the South Sany United States Antarctic Program great,Ó said Ken. ÒIÕm from a small town, we Pole. station is frowned upon by Antarctic Support live in a small town. This is no different.Ó For McMullan, like many people who win- Associates and The ter at the South Pole, the experience is difficult National Science to incapsulate in a few words. ÒYou can only Foundation. Issues of describe the winter so far. ThereÕs nothing to extended isolation and relate it to, just stars, darkness and the auroras. mental well-being are pri- Holding Down I hiked the Appalachian Trail for 2,200 miles mary concerns. over seven and a half months, and that experi- Occasionally, however, a ence is tough to describe, too. Really, so few few individuals are called people have the opportunity to experience this upon to assist the pro- The Pole place, itÕs little things like that which are impor- gram and continue offer- tant to me. ing their services. Most story and photos by Alexander Colhoun Three consecutive recently, five South Pole seasons on the ice have workers completed three consecutive done little to curtail seasons: Summer 1996, Winter McMullans passion for 1996-97 and Summer 1997. this world which has One thing you recognize rather become his home. ÒOn quickly when speaking with these Saturday, I went out for people is their easy-going, accepting three hours, North of nature. With so much time spent on the ski-runway. The the ice, they seem to have adjusted warmth of the sun was to a polar rhythm of life. In addition, on my face and it was J.P. they are, one and all, full of good Brian dead quiet. Even after a cheer and smiles -- year here, I thought all one can specu- about my relationship to other peo- late is that the ple on the planet. ItÕs still powerful.Ó PoleÕs rarefied air Brian Ellspermann. Raised has touched their amidst the heat of Nashville, spirits deeply. Tennessee, the South Pole seems an Dawn Laprete. unlikely home for Brian Despite a bank Ellspermann. A glimpse at his rang- account in Vail, ing beard and contented smile con- Colorado, a stor- firms, however, that the polar age locker on extreme matches EllspermannÕs Orcas Island in Dawn character. Washington and ÒThe winter is an unforgettable having grown up in New Jersey, Dawn Laprete ÒIÕm always look- experience,Ó said Ellspermann. ÒThe is happiest calling the South Pole her home. ing for a new chal- full magnitude of my winter experi- After 13 consecutive months there, she has the lenge,Ó said Lisa Lobe, ence has not really had time to sink right to do so. a communications in, but little things hit me everyday, Laprete worked as a cook through the worker by summer and I think often of the friends made Lisa Ken entire experience, feeding all 29 people and inventory control during the long dark night. throughout the long, dark winter. ÒMy favorite specialist in winter. ÒOne of my favorite things was was chocolate decadence,Ó said Laprete. ÒThe winter sky is so spectacular Ðthe auroras, the night sky. The polar night is a truly magical ÒChocolate, sugar and cream is all you need, the starsÐ theyÕre always changing. The moon time. IÕll miss the dark sky full of stars, auro- plus a special event, like the sunset party.Ó is so bright. It just chokes me up thinking about ra's, and the full moon lighting up the area and Each night after work, Laprete would head it.Ó the walks outside to see all the new drifts out into the darkness for walks. Those walks The two were the only married couple that around summer camp and the station. seem to have a special place in her spirit. ÒThe spent the winter at the South Pole and are quick ÒThis winter brought me for the challenge, sky here is one of the most beautiful things IÕve to add theyÕd do it all again. ÒCome back and it was. Would I do it again? Hell yes, if it ever seen,Ó says Laprete. ÒI felt like I was on again?Ó inquired Lisa. ÒOf course, in fact IÕd seemed like the trail I should follow! IÕm still the moon. It was so isolated and desolate out- stay the winter if I could.Ó living the dream.Ó ✹