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Knitting Machinery Knitting Machines exhibited new types of machines. Especially as for flat Knitting Machinery knitting machines. Tsudakoma Industry, well-known as a large weaving machine manufacturer, exhibited as a S atoru Itoh trial a completely new flat knitting machine which has Kobe Design University no ordinary carriage. Shima Seiki Mfg. and Sansei Mfg. displayed rib garment length machines which enabled 1. Introduction needles to be transferred from right to left or vice versa. Needles on ordinary rib garment machines are ITMA, the largest textile machinery exhibition in the transferred only from the back bed to the front or vice world, is held in Europe every four years. OTEMAS is versa. As for circular knitting machines, Fukuhara held in Osaka for the Asian district in the middle year of Industrial & Trading exhibited a computerized Jacquard each ITMA, that is, two years after ITMA. Besides double-jersey machine with interlock-gating. those, IKAE which is an exhibition for only knitting On the whole, a most manufacturers placed greater machines, is held in Tokyo a year after OTEMAS. emphasis to quality and versatility rather than to At OTEMAS, European knitting machine productivity. Even at knitting demonstration, unique manufacturers usually tend to exhibit their machines knitting designs and fabrics with elastic yams were which won the popularity at ITMA. This time, some shown, giving interest not only to knitters but also to improvements were added to their machines or fabrics on production planners or designers in apparel industry. display. Japanese knitting machine manufacturers ambitiously Vol. 40. No. 2 (1994) 39 knitting machines had no such demerit, because of their 2. Flat Knitting Machines features that the fabric is knitted in piece with thick and uneven surface. Yard goods productivity by flat knitting machines is e) As for gauges of computerized design knitting less than that by circular machines, because the former machines with transferred stitches, 14 gauge machines comes from a small number of yam feeders making had been exhibited till '91 ITMA, and Shima Seiki first reciprocating motion, and the latter from a large number exhibited 18 gauge at '93 OTEMAS. Shima Seiki also of yam feeders with rotary motion. But in case of exhibited a 16 machine for rib only without transferring- producing a small lot, the flat knitting machine has an stitches at '87 ITOMA, and a 22 machine at '91 ITMA advantage of short lead time, because only the required and '93 OTEMAS. If knitting machine manufacturers number of colored cones is necessary to knit. Japanese want to enter the weaving market, researches for finer consumers today hope for fabric manufacturers to catch gauge and knitting structures must be eagerly done. their trends quickly, and to plan and produce a small lot f) As for improvement of design function, at '87 ITMA of garments at a reasonable price as soon as possible, Stoll succeeded in making various designs such as though there are still many manufacturers which produce continuous tucks by sinkers positioned on both needle only ready-made clothes for convenience. Concerning beds. Then at '87 ITMA all major manufacturers this point, the flat knitting machine is the most suitable displayed developed machines. Some machines were knitting machine for producing outer garments. equipped with sinkers on needle beds, or with a stitch Other basic features of flat knitting machines are as presser on the carriage. These technical improvements follows: were progressing even at '93 OTEMAS. a) Fabric is knitted without any loss, because the g) Universal exhibited a new type in which at the same knitting width is changeable by changing the number of course needles are selected into one of three different needles. Shaped knitting, which can be made by means stitch length positions. Since then, some major of transferred stitches, is possible to save more than 30% manufacturers began to adopt the stitch length of material comparing with other types of machines with controlling system. the same number of needles. h) Sansei at '91 ITMA displayed an intersia machine b) Fabric knitted on flat knitting machines cannot be whose yarn carriers were electronically controlled by unraveled from ends or sides, therefore cost and time for 'Active Carrier System' , making its productivity doubled. sewing are saved. i) Shima Seiki and Sansei at '93 OTEMAS displayed c) Racking the needle beds can produce various rib shaped garment length machines which enabled knitted structures. needles to be transferred from right to left or vice versa. d) Because there are a lot of space on both sides of j) Tsudakoma at '93 OTEMAS displayedas a trial an needle beds, the carriage can be combined with many epoch-making machine without carriage, the individual structural design apparatuses such as knit, tuck, welt or needle on which is moved by means of a linear motor. transferred stitch, etc. Other machines at the exhibition are as follows: The following descriptions are about technological Shima Seiki displayed 27 machines in total; 18 of innovations on flat knitting machines. garment length, 5 of seamless glove and 4 of seamless a) Though compound needle has an advantage of socks. Besides, total systems were displayed covering shorter stroke in motion, only Shima Seiki first exhibited all knitting areas throughout from designing to knitting four cam system machine at '87 ITMA and has been with simultaneous making-up such as total-knitting or exhibiting. total-fashion system. b) As for cam system, four cam systems had been SES-RT was new and popular at the exhibition, exhibited till '83 ITMA. But five cam systems at '87 making rib shaped knitting possible by reducing the ITMA, and six cam systems at both '91 ITMA and '93 number of needles. There are two horizontal subsidiary OTEMAS, were exhibited by Shima Seiki (3 by 3 beds over two main needle beds, and so it is called 'Four tandem system is also available). Bed Type Machine'. Jacks inserted on the subsidiary c) As for knitting width, wide machines such as beds receive loops from main needle beds, and then 229cm at '91 ITMA, 254cm at '93 OTEMAS by Shima subsidiary beds move sideways and loops are finally Seiki, and 224cm at '93 OTEMAS by Stoll, were transferred to adjoining needles. exhibited. By means of this method, narrowing the knitted fabric d) Computerized design knitting systems on flat by fashioning such as rib, tubular stitches, milano rib and knitting machines were exhibited at '75 ITMA by only full or half cardigan was successfully made. Several two major manufacturers, but at '79 ITMA by all major wales inside of both edges are fashioned according to the manufacturers. Not only needle selection for knitting designed curve, and the fabric can be used as it is design but also controlling systems and design systems without any further processes. RT is the initials of Rib have been connected and progressed. Although circular Transfer. Fig. 1 shows the whole view of SES-122RT. machines had to compete with printing industry, flat Figure 2 shows its four-bed and a shaped fabric made by Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan 40 Fig. l Whole view of SES 122RT Fig. 3 Full moving sinkers of SES-S Fig. 2 Four-bed and a shaped fabric by SES 122RT this machine. Darts, pleats, jacquard, solid and inteasia are freely combined with these basic structural fabrics. Three SES-122-RT machines in 7G, lOG and 12G were displayed this time. SES-FF presented in 1989 was able to produce shaped front body, collar, tack, pocket and button hole Fig. 4 Movement of sinkers of SES-S simultaneously, so that it was called 'Integral knit'. SES- FF was a valuable machine, because it could automatically knit fabrics together with other parts which usually had to be cut and sewn after knitting process. So, it can save time and cost. The first super fine 18 G machine in the world was exhibited besides 3G, 5G and 14G machines. SES-S type newly presented at this exhibition was the advanced machine of FF type. It was equipped with higher Integral knit which could produce more difficult structural designs with easy operation. Full moving sinkers with springs ( Figs. 3 and 4 ) made it possible to make easily various structures such as extraordinary knitting design, solid design, and loop design crossed Fig. 5 Narrowing device of TSC-1K48 lengthwise and crosswise. SES-122-S in 7G, 12G, and lOG for intersia knitting, and SES-254-S in 7G with 254cm knitting width which was the widest at present in the world, were exhibited. SFF-153-S for only milano rib with finest gauge of 22 was displayed too. As for the total knitting system, super micro SDS design system was displayed, which could reduce the time for automatic-controlling up to 1/60 of the ordinary type. Some examples were as follows: from 13 minutes Fig. 6 Double sinkers of TSC-1K48 Vol. 40. No. 2(1994) 41 to 14 seconds for one piece of cardigan, from 21 minutes CMS433 equipped with six cams ( available in tandem to 22 seconds for four colored intersia, from 38 minutes type ) and 244cm knitting width in 12 G was displayed, to 26 seconds for ordinary intersia. which exceeded the second generation in its ability. The Sansei exhibited the following types of machines functional device was paid attention, as it was able to with unique development. knit sprit increasing stitches with plain knitting in order TSC-1K48 is a new type equipped with an automatic to avoid open loops at the first course. rib stitch narrowing device inside the carriage, CMS330 displayed also at '91 ITMA, was a superior eliminating the manual operation for reducing rib stitches.
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