A Basic Introduction to Double Knitting Quick Reference Copyright 2008 Poopshebear and J.P

B C D E F J I K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z a b c d e f g h i j k l m n z y x v w x r t s r 1 ! @ # $

Double knitting is creating a double layered material by knitting 2 or more yarns at the same time and is stockinette on bothh sides. To create a two-layered object you are going to do a few thingss a little differently than standard, ﬂ at knitting. These instructions areare in no way to be considered comprehensive, but address the most common questions someone attempting double knitting for the ﬁ rst time may have:

1) Main Color (MC) / Contrast Color (CC), Right Side (RS) / Wrong Side (WS) In double knitting either color could be the MC and because both sides of the project are stockinette either side could be RS. For this reason, the fi rst stitch in Row 1 determines MC and RS. The 1st stitch (a knit) will be the side of material facing you and therefore RS, the yarn chosen for this 1st knit stitch is MC. The odd numbered stitches will be the RS stitches, the even numbered stitches will be the WS stitches. Take a look at what the fi nished project should look like. If both sides are identical or mirror images it may not matter to you which color or side is primary. If, however, 1 side is dominant, you will want to cast on so that the fi rst stitch will be the dominant side.

2) Stitch Counts There are 2 sets of stitches in double knitting: the number of stitches on a given side and the total of the 2 sides. RS stitches + WS stitches = Total stitches (TS). Total stitches are always even numbers as RS and WS are identical numbers of stitches. RS (10) + WS (10) = TS (20) RS (15) + WS (15) = TS (30) This is important to know when casting on, whether you choose a smooth or twisted edge, you need to have the TS of loops on the needle when you begin.

2) Edges (Casting on and off): There are two styles of edges: smooth and twisted. A smooth edge gives a clearly deﬁ ned color as in the image above. A twisted edge gives an edge with a 2-color braided appearance. A) Smooth edge: Cast on with the Main Color (MC) for the total # of stitches needed. The Contrast Color (CC) will be added in row #1. You are going to add the CC on row 1 by purling all even # stitches. So, Stitch 1 is K with MC, Stitch 2 is P with CC, Stitch 3, K with MC and so forth. Binding Off: Discontinue CC for the last row, complete the last row in MC and bind off by knitting 2 together (k2tog) with MC.

B C D E F J I K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z a b c d e f g h i j k l m n z y x v w x r t s r 1 ! @ # $

B) Twisted edge: Cast on both yarns at the same time, holding them together, as if you are casting on only one. You will need to take care that the colors alternate (CC-MC- CC-MC), keeping in mind which color you want to identify as the MC, along the row. Each individual yarn loop on the needle is a stitch. Binding Off: knitting 2 together (k2tog) with both MC and CC.

2) Patterns: A) Stitch pattern: The entire item is knit in 1x1 ribbing throughout (K1, P1). One of the amazing things about double knitting is that all of the knit stitches are pulled forward to form a front layer while the purl stitches are pushed back to form a back layer. This causes a knit stockinette material on both sides. B) Color pattern: Which color is knit and which is purled determines the color pattern. You alternate the color on the layers of material by switching the yarns between knit/purl. If you can remember that the stitch pattern is K1,P1 all the way and that you are carrying the yarns together without twisting or stranding, the most complicated and time consuming part is which yarn you need to work on the next stitch. I personally ﬁ nd a chart invaluable for a visual reference to keep track of which color I’m working next.

3) Holding yarns: Both yarns are held together and carried back and forth as if you are going to work both. When you knit you take both yarns to the back, knit with the yarn of your choice and then carry them back to the front to purl. Even though you hold them together, you do not knit them together, instead you only knit or purl the yarn desired.

4) Ending a row: If you are ending a row with 1 color and starting the next with the other you don’t need to twist. If, however, you end a row and start the next with the same color, you will need to twist the yarns together or your material will have a hole in the side seam. Do this by knitting the ﬁ rst stitch in the row, then when you pull the yarns forward to purl stitch #2 twist the 2nd yarn under the 1st before you purl so that it catches the 1st yarn in the stitch.

B C D E F J I K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z a b c d e f g h i j k l m n z y x v w x r t s r 1 ! @ # $

These instructions are speciﬁ c to my patterns for double- knit items: For simplicity, brevity and clarity there are some basic rules that I do nott note throughout the pattern instructions. 1) MC/CC vs colors First lets address the issue that MC and CC become confusing very quickly with a double sided item so I abbreviate with color initials and color coordinate the text speciﬁ c to the colors in the project I’m working on instead:

Chart: Abbreviation Description y MC: Main Color (yellow) b CC1: Contrast color 1 (black) r CC2: Contrast color 2 (red) bbll CC3: Contrast color 3 (blue) clear wwhh CC4: Contrast color 4 (white) I’ve got some examples to show you so I’m going to continue using those speciﬁ c colors (since I’ve already explained them)

2) Keeping in mind that the stitch pattern is always K1, P1: the detailed instructions are only to give the stitch count of how many MC (let’s call it black or B), how many CC (let’s call it yellow or y), etc…. 1 B1, y3, B2 [this means K1 in B, P1 in y, K1 in y, P1 in y, K1 in B, P1 in B]

3) Color Pattern Instructions: A) Simple Color patterns that are relatively, well, simple, are noted by rows. 1 B1, y 1 to end [this means * (K1 in B, P1 in y) repeat from * to end] 2 y1, B1 to end [this means * (K1 in y, P1 in B) repeat from * to end] B) Complicated Color patterns that make multiple, seemingly random changes, across a row are worked down in columns. Each row is a column and is headed at the top with the row number. Instructions are in blocks of repeating stitches and are kept to short rows to reduce eye strain and frustration. The Row 41 row begins with the top row and continues down, reading right to (y1, b1) x 6; left. b2; The diagram to the left is an actual excerpt from Row 41 of my (wwhh1, b1) x 3; Steeler’s Towel project and illustrates the column theory. (r1, b1) x 3; 3