Winter Fun on the Fells

the theUpdateUpdate WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69

WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 georgeﬁ sher.co.uk New season stock now in! See inside for a full round-up of new clothing and equipment WINTER FUN ON THE FELLS

Ask any Mountain Rescue Team in With the right knowledge and equipment,pment, bbeingeing Cumbria and they’ll tell you that the Lake out in the mountains in winter george fisher safety first District fells in winter are no place to go weather has its own appeal – the unprepared. satisfaction of being in control in poor conditions. On the down side, george fisher That’s not to say that the winter fells are a winter walking has more potential safety first no-go zone. Quite the opposite in fact. Properly for risk given that a simple accidentt prepared and with the right equipment, there can more rapidly turn into a seriouss can be few more exhilarating places to be than situation. So if you’re heading out the frost-laden summits of Lakeland’s ﬁ nest on the fells this winter, are you fullyy mountains. prepared?

It’s in winter especially that you appreciate the We’ve now produced a special bookletlet design features built into your gear. Lightweight called George Fisher Safety First that’sat’s aallll waterproofs won’t cope with blizzard conditions about winter safety in the hills. Availableilable but a fully-specifi ed 4-season jacket allows free in the store, the booklet has beeneen you not only to survive, but actually to enjoy written in conjunction with experts atat some the situation. You’ll need effective insulation; of the top brands we stock. Please ppickick not just fl eece but maybe down or synthetic one up and have a look through – perhapserhaps too. Map and compass skills become essential, over a coffee in Abraham’s – and makeake sure backed up perhaps by the miracle of GPS. that you’re prepared for those chillyy bbutut Footwear becomes a serious factor, both for exhilarating days on the fells. And iff you’re cold-weather comfort and underfoot security. interested in honing your winter skillsills whywhy Plus crampons and axes may be needed – do not try a weekend course, perhaps at YHA you know how to use them properly? Derwentwater? (see page 12) Pick uupp our free winter leafl et in store

THE GEAR’S HERE!

Ah, winter. I love the smell of new gear snowsports garments plus new ranges in the morning. Now’s the time that the from The North Face, Salomon store ﬁ lls up with new products, the very and Marmot. Andy Airey gives best and latest designs from some of the the low-down on all these world’s top outdoor and ski brands. products on page 4, while John Owens examines the Big recommendations for this season latest ski hardware on include Schoffel ski gear, beautifully page 7 including some very thought through and very high quality, special new ski helmets and including their Voltage, Omega and goggles. Plus we take a quick women’s Cecile jackets. look at why Rab clothing is so highly rated. Better hurry; some Then there’s Haglofs - one of our favourite of these are literally ﬂ ying off the mountain brands - with new climbing and shelves… Schoffel Cecile Jacket for women Haglofs Couloir Jacket

phone and website orders received before noon are delivered free overnight georgeﬁ sher.co.uk 1 t 017687 71801 • weekdays only the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 WARMTH WITHOUT WEIGHT RAB IS A COMPANY THAT’S WELL KNOWN FOR ITS QUALITY GEAR

When company founder Rab Carrington started making guide Rich Cross says, the Hoodie provides “Perfect emergency protection down sleeping bags over 30 years ago, he did so to for any situation. During a full summer’s pass time and earn a few bob while he was waiting Alpine guiding this went just about for customs to release his climbing kit in Chile. A everywhere with me. Given its light talented climber, he had spent much of the 1970s weight, packability and excellent hood, on expeditions around the world and in doing it goes unnoticed in the bottom of your so gained the best education possible in sack until things go a bit gnarly.” understanding what climbers need. Rab started manufacturing from home in Two of Rab’s signature down garments Sheffi eld making gear designed for climbers, are the Microlight and Neutrino by climbers and in the mid 1980s became the Endurance jackets. The Microlight fi rst manufacturer to use Pertex in sleeping Jacket is an ultra-lightweight Pertex- bags and down jackets. shelled down garment with 750+ fi ll power goose down, and which stuffs Now ‘retired’ (but climbing harder than ever!), into its own chest pocket. The Neutrino Rab’s legacy continues in the company that Endurance is the benchmark for Rab Photon Hoody bears his name. George Fisher stocks modern mountaineering with its Pertex several Rab products, amongst them Endurance outer giving protection with Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket the Photon Hoodie - an essential piece of kit for those who spend time in minimal weight and packsize, and high the mountains, especially in winter. Filled with Primaloft Sport synthetic lofting is provided by 220g of pure white goose insulation, it provides maximum warmth for minimum weight. As mountain down.

PHOTO: BEN WINSTON

Men’s Microlight jacket Women’s Microlight jacket www.rab.uk.com

available at George Fisher

3 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 GEAR ROUND-UP Andy Airey gets all wintry with the latest ski clothing

The annual arrival of ski gear in George Fisher adds a new Schoffel skiwear combines freedom of movement and dimension to the store. The reappearance of snowsports protection from the weather – modern performance products give the winter clothing range a very different look, materials, comfortable designs and quality compared to our more usual walking/climbing image. that lasts longer than one season!

New to us for this winter is Schoffel, a family-owned German brand Haglofs gives us a different slant on established over 200 years ago. Schoffel is one snowsport clothing. We have the of the market leaders in Europe – if you ski in Couloir Jacket and Pants (£425 and Germany, Austria or Switzerland it’s the name £325) for both men and women. These you’ll see time and time again. Over the garments are feature-fi lled but the years Schoffel has gained a reputation thing that sets them apart from anything for producing top-quality stylish else we’ve ever stocked is the GORE-TEX clothing that looks good and performs Softshell fabric. This is a stretch, waterproof/ brilliantly. breathable GORE-TEX shell with a warm, light Haglofs Couloir Jacket liner – it gives complete weather protection Not surprisingly our new venture along with extra thermal effi ciency. You remain with Schoffel has been launched dry and warm so you need fewer bulky layers to remain comfortable. with a limited range, however from the moment the products The Couloir also benefi ts from the distinctive Haglofs design – one look arrived it became obvious that we’d and you know who’s made it. If you have enjoyed using Haglofs gear when underestimated demand – our staff walking or climbing, here are the products that transfer their Scandinavian loved it, always a good sign! Schoffel Cecile Jacket for women outdoor know-how to skiing. Women have the Cecile jacket and Ilena Stretch Pants (£280 and £190 respectively); both use Venturi Stretch fabric, a waterproof These new top-end products are breathable material that gives great fi t, great movement underpinned with snowsport ranges and maximum performance. The Cecile jacket has all from The North Face, Salomon and the features you would expect to fi nd in a top-quality Marmot with jacket prices from £180. For ski jacket but it’s not the list of features that make this a real mountain all-rounder check out special - it’s the way the garment is designed. Comfort, Marmot’s Spire Jacket (£230), a classic fi t and freedom make for the ideal skiing companion! The GORE-TEX shell with a mountain hood and Ilena Pant comes with a detachable bib so you can have the pit zips; the addition of a detachable snow security of bib and braces, or zip off the top and attach the pants skirt means the Spire can be your ideal ski to the Cecile’s snow skirt giving all the protection of a ski suit without jacket too. any of the drawbacks! Protect your extremities with a choice from Men get the Voltage and Omega jackets, along our range of hats and gloves. My favourite with the Pollux pants (£460, £380 and £250 accessory for this year is the Helix Glove from Haglofs Helix Glove respectively). As you would expect the men’s Haglofs (£80), a soft shell glove with Pittards jackets are crammed with features – there’s leather on palm and fi ngers, insulated with Primaloft. It fi ts beautifully and is a pocket for everything you’ll ever need incredibly dextrous. How can I justify buying yet another pair of ski gloves?! on a ski slope (even one with a tethered lens cloth), detachable snow skirt, zip-off We have a range of base layers, insulation, hats and gloves to complement hood with clear-view sides, cuff-integrated your choice of skiwear – you’ll fi nd everything you need for your trip mitts, stowaway balaclava….the list goes wherever you’re heading to fi nd snow. Unlike more classic mountain on. Combine either jacket with the stretch products the ski range is completely fresh every year with colours, styles Pollux pant and you will feel as though you and brands always updated – call in and be inspired! could ski anything! Schoffel Omega Jacket

4 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 GIVE FEET A CHANCE Lisa Bergerud recommends you take your feet seriously

Time and again I hear people say that foot comfort is the Andrew gets continually frustrated when his most important thing to them when out walking, other clients say ‘I should have done this, years than map and compass (plus clothing of course, unless ago!’ Yes he’s ﬁ xed them now, but they didn’t you’re the naked rambler). And I have to say I’d agree. have to put up with the pain!

However there are quite a lot of people out there who fudge around I’m not sure if people are worried at the the issue. Uncomfortable boots are blamed solely on the boot, never thought of the extra cost. Maybe it’s because the foot that’s in it. Swollen or painful knees are blamed on old age unlike shopping, where you can touch and or the price to pay for getting to a summit. see what you’ve bought, with Andrew you’re paying for his expertise and something that People visit us to fi nd ‘comfortable’ boots, and of course we stock doesn’t look much to put in your shoes/ well-made footwear to fi t a wide range of users and foot shapes. boots - but is actually a life changing However there’s no getting away from it; if you have a biomechanical difference! Before Andrew’s advice I couldn’t problem, until you address it the boots will not be comfortable, and run or sleep well without a seriously aching foot and leg injuries will stay and potentially just get worse. hip. Now with my orthotic shoe inserts that pain is a distant memory, money invested in Good boots are only half the story Every weekend I fi nd someone looking at trekking poles because my old age and doing the sports I love! they have knee pain. Yes, they help but they don’t sort the problem. People also hide themselves away in changing rooms to try on knee Andrew is going to be in George Fisher on the 6th of February where he’ll be happy supports to help their swollen knees. Great, but this doesn’t sort out to advise you if you have a treatable condition. People often ask if we’re on some why they have swollen knees. Good boots with underfoot support will ‘commission deal’ with the Rebound Clinic; no, we’re not. What we do know is, treated help, but will never be truly comfortable if biomechanical problems properly our customers can be fi tted with our walking boots and are going to have a aren’t addressed. longer and happier walking life, which surely has to be in our interest. This is why ten years ago we looked at the situation with regard to our Correct Fit Guarantee. We were able to make many of our customers more comfortable with Superfeet insoles in their footwear, but not everybody. At this point we spotted an advert for Andrew Stanley, a HPC registered PODM podiatrist who specialised in biomechanics. Andrew started his practice in 1997 aiming at treating walkers, runners, skiers and sports enthusiasts.

Andrew tells me that statistically more than half of us are predisposed to painful symptoms due to biomechanical dysfunction in the way we walk (our gait). This leads to excessive stresses to bones, joints, tendons, ligaments and muscles when walking or running that lead to symptoms. The more you do, the higher the stresses and the higher the likelihood of symptoms occurring.

So by now, in theory, half of you reading this should be recognising what you’ve just read. However the good news is that Andrew should be able to help. Using specialist knowledge and techniques it is possible to design custom-made inserts that ﬁ t inside footwear to control excessive foot/leg motion, leaving a more neutral gait. Gait correction can also prevent other injuries occurring in the future.

Over the years Andrew has visited George Fisher to see customers and advise them on their problems. Many people listen, but for whatever reason don’t follow it through until years later when the pain is too much and they’ve read several articles like this or been told by friends or a doctor that they need to visit a podiatrist.

5 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 :FGPI@>?KJ8CFDFEJ8J%8CCI@>?KJII8G?P1;8E J8CFDFE%:FD :8DG9

6 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 HOW TO KEEP YOUR HEAD THIS

WINTER John Owens is impressed with a new helmet design

What comes to mind when you think about These two functions have confl icting design needs, because they get too hot, Sweden, apart from Abba? When it comes as shown in the two main options on the market. POC has developed the Frontal to products made there, you may have an The fi rst design has a hard shell with a liner of (£130) which uses four different association with design and safety and this is expanded polystyrene which has good penetration venting systems, utilising the what Stockholm-based protection specialist resistance and energy distribution properties, but double-shell construction POC is all about. This visionary company works the hard shell causes a sudden stop so the brain to produce a light and airy The POC Synapsis helmet with specialists from neurology, engineering continues to move in the direction of travel. Also a helmet in striking colours. and materials to produce cutting-edge heavy shelled helmet may cause a bouncing effect protection for skiers of all disciplines. Their on impact leading to brain damage and whiplash, Whether you decide to buy a POC or one of our sponsored athletes include double Olympic so defi nitely a case of ‘light is right’. Bolle or Head models this year, remember the medallist Julia Mancuso, and our very own safest helmet is the one you wear! The other type is the in-mould which most of Chemmy Alcott as well as the whole Swedish Also from POC are two ski team. us know from cycle helmet construction. These have a thinner shell so they collapse on impact, models from their goggle To understand what makes their products different absorbing energy and reducing brain acceleration. range, the Cornea (£130) we need to look at what a helmet is designed to However, they can break up on impact and are less offering unparalleled do. On impact, the brain moves inside the skull. penetration resistant. vision with its distinctive frame construction, and If the impact is great enough the brain actually POC Cornea goggles hits the skull, possibly leading to swelling and So what POC has done is create an in-mould the more classic X Iris bleeding, so a helmet must absorb the force and helmet with an Aramid ballistic penetration barrier, (£100). Both use a double decrease the acceleration of the brain. The other allowing a light helmet with amazing penetration lens construction that has the best antifogging obvious function is to stop objects such as rocks or properties. The Synapsis (£170) is extremely light performance out there. So maybe when you’re branches penetrating the skull. in weight with great ventilation, and unbeatable pushing hard you might at least see the tree, and protection. For those who don’t like helmets avoid having to test your helmet! Happy skiing… DEEP, CRISP AND EVEN If this winter’s anything like the last, you’ll be wanting new ski gear…

If this coming winter is nearly as good as last alternative. Part of our fi tting procedure includes big and fl oaty yet still slick on the season then we should banish those winter looking at how stabilising footbeds like Superfeet corduroy. If long empty groomers blues and pack our gear immediately. There can make all the difference whether you’re a are more you, and high mileage may still be worries about the exchange rate cruiser or fall line skier. the goal, then Salomon’s detuned but of course this means the UK is, for once, slalom ski the Equipe 24hr Ti the cheaper place to buy equipment. In the rather confusing world of skis we have (£450) is worth a serious look. created a range to cover the majority of ability and Speaking of equipment, this year’s offerings are terrain needs. Some of this year’s more interesting A word about servicing; like any impressive with the best models from Salomon, developments include the upgraded Salomon equipment your skis will last Head and Nordica. Head’s Vector range is entirely Tornado Ti (£550) which was always a stunning longer and work better if looked new, offering a seriously all-mountain model managing to please the keen after. Dry bases don’t glide well comfortable boot built for skier on and off piste, and this year’s wider body and blunt edges won’t grip an icy performance on and off makes it even better. The body is stiffened with piste; service your skis now, so piste - the Vector 110 (£260) thin sheets of titanium to allow greater edge grip there’s no time lost when you get and Vector One (£240). Of on hard-pack, with the body creating ‘fl oat’ as you to the resort. During our Winter course this may not be the fl y between the trees on the soft stuff. Sale we close our ski servicing boot for you, but with workshop for two weeks (19 The ladies have an equal model in the form of the our range and December to 4 January). Make Salomon Equipe 24hr fi tting skill we’ll Wild One (£525) from Head, excellent for showing sure you get your skis in early have a perfect up your partner during those off-piste lessons. enough for your trip! Head Vector 110 For the powder hounds, Head’s John 94 (£570) is

7 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 SPOT THE STICKERS Look for our conservation-supporting products

George Fisher gets hands-on involved in conservation work and in particular our staff look after Friars Crag, along the lake shore. The restoration and maintenance of the footpath to Friars Crag has been supported by us for many years. Conservation around Our latest initiative is to launch a series of special products, profi ts Derwent Water from which go towards local conservation projects. Look out for special stickers in store – our fi rst products were Icebreaker socks then Granger’s aftercare in October, both of which worked well with the ‘eco’ theme, and the next will be in the new year. We have our not-for-profi t jute bags where 50p per bag goes to the Tourism and Conservation Partnership, and we also have a collection box in the Abrahams Tea Room where you can directly contribute. In supporting local conservation work we help to minimise not only our own environmental footprint, but also you, our customers. George Fisher

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8 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 ABRAHAM’S TEA ROOM Forget celebrity chefs, here’s a real recipe book Abraham’s This issue of The Update, rather than give a recipe we decided to give Recipe Book a plug instead. For our new Abraham’s Tea Room recipe book, no less!

For those who don’t know why it’s called the Abraham’s Tea Room, our George Fisher building was originally built in 1887 by pioneering mountain photographer George Abraham to house his photography business. The company was carried forward by his sons George and Ashley until in 1967 the premises were acquired by George Fisher, a local climber and founder member of the Keswick Mountain Rescue Team, for his new outdoor gear shop.

It seemed only right that in 1989 when George retired and the building was refurbished, we named the new tearoom after the building’s illustrious founder.

The new Abraham’s Tea Room Recipe Book contains 13 original recipes created by the tearoom, both savoury and sweet, and costs a very reasonable £3.00. Available in the store and in the tearoom itself!

www.haglofs.co.uk

9 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 PARK IN THE PARK BY PHONE No more fumbling for change

Pioneering parking by phone has recently hit the Lake District, in an Lake District National Park operates over 45 car parks - most of which are initiative designed to make life easier for the national park’s eight free - but in the 16 pay and display areas there are plans to roll out payment million visitors. by phone options. Already widely used in the south, it is a concept which cuts any cash crises National park head of car parks, David Coxon, said: “This is a great way at pay and display machines and has been widely welcomed by motorists. to park your car without the hassle of ﬁ nding the right coins for pay and display.

“It’s very simple. You just register as a user, get a number and then enter your location and length of time you need. If you ﬁ nd you’re in George Fisher longer than anticipated and need longer, you simply call the number again to extend the time.

“Staff checking car parks will have mobile links to a web service showing which cars have registered. It’s an easy to use, easy to run operation and I’m sure visitors will be pleased to have such a hassle-free way of paying for parking.”

The scheme is operating for a 12 month trial period, ﬁ nishing next autumn. Now you can pay for parking by phone NEW NUMBER FOR WEATHER LIFELINE The Lake District’s Weatherline service is changing

A potentially life-saving weather service used by half a million people a “We have changed the number to keep costs down both for customers and year has a new number. ourselves. Calls to 0844 846 2444 are fi ve pence a minute from landlines and 12p from mobiles. Obviously For 34 years the Lake District’s Weatherline has been keeping 8.3 million there is no charge to visitors and locals up to speed with conditions in England’s premier national website visitors.” park. From November, the number to call for forecasts (updated twice daily) is 0844 846 2444. Chris said with the onslaught of winter, it was The renowned service includes winter weather reports from the National important that Weatherline Park’s two fell top assessors who work alternate weeks scaling the Lake was as effi cient as possible. District’s third-highest peak, 950 metre Helvellyn, from the beginning of “We can’t advise strongly December to Easter. enough that it’s well worth Their phone and online reports help protect walkers and climbers from the few minutes it takes to conditions that can change rapidly, and fatally, on the fells. get reliable forecasts and fell top information. It’s LDNP’s countryside team leader, Chris Tomlin, said although Weatherline was great that vast numbers invaluable to the area’s walkers, climbers and runners, it was also widely used get out and about in the by farmers, residents and especially those working outdoors. Lake District and that Weatherline is there to help He added: “We know how important Weatherline is and how widely it is used. protect them.” Our information service records the weather twice daily and it is updated Fell Top Assessor Craig Palmer climbs Helvellyn automatically by the Met Offi ce on our website www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/ every day throughout winter to report conditions weatherline

10 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69

SPEAKING OUT Bill Birkett dusts his dinner jacket off

Way before climbing walls and sports science he trained by climbing on brick/ stone walls, bouldering and lifting weights to develop his physical strength and fl exibility. Probably the fi rst climber to train specifi cally for climbing, and wearing leather soled boots even before the use of nails, he pushed rock climbing limits beyond anything achieved before and developed a new grade of diffi culty which he called ‘Extreme’. Today this probably equates to Very Severe which is still very impressive indeed. One of his most famous exploits was performing a one-armed, three-fi nger pull-up on an ice axe jammed in the rafters of the Wasdale Head Inn while holding George Abraham under his other arm. Truly a man of gigantic strength! On suffering frostbite on a climb in the Alps he ‘cured’ it by plunging his hand in boiling glue. Subsequently he claimed that his deformed and hooked fi ngers helped him grip holds better! Blimey. Unfortunately he never made it into the 20th Century - Jones was Autumn colours over Elter Water killed in the Alps in 1899 when a guide fell, pulling four climbers including Jones to their deaths. I must say that I was rather chuffed to be asked to be Guest Speaker at this year’s Fell and Rock Climbing Club’s Annual Dinner. I’ve been During half term I also walked the Helvellyn horseshoe from Glenridding, the a regular member since around 1985 when the late, great climbing classic route around Red Tarn via Striding Edge and descent down Swirral pioneer and artist Bill Peascod insisted that I join. For anyone Edge to sweep up to the elegant peak of Catstycam. An experience shared interested in maximising their involvement with the great outdoors with hundreds if not thousands of others. In fact Striding Edge was a solid line it’s a wonderful and friendly club to be in, with a series of fi ne huts of people often waiting patiently whilst those in front negotiated the diffi cult throughout the Lake District and Scotland. They also produce a number bits. Despite the exposure and diffi culty this must be one of the most popular of publications including the defi nitive rock climbing guidebooks to the routes in the whole Lake District – perhaps even outstripping its rivals Scafell Lake District. Pike and curvaceous Skiddaw. It would be very interesting if numbers were discreetly measured, as they are in other areas, just to give an accurate fi gure It is interesting to think that the Fell and Rock was possibly fi rst conceived of the people who do this walk throughout the season. here, at what is now George Fisher. Once it was the photographic shop and studio of the Abraham Brothers who, along with a group of fellow-minded There were walkers of all ages and all abilities and I would say, judging by enthusiasts, founded the club back in 1906. The Abrahams were outstanding many people’s performances, many that had done precious little hill walking professional mountain photographers and the fi rm continued to operate here before. Nevertheless all seemed to be enjoying the experience and negotiated right into the 1960s when it taken over by George Fisher, a founder of Keswick the ‘edge’ without undue incident. Of course, despite it being a rather gloomy Mountain Rescue Team, to start his outdoors shop. day, it was completely calm and windless with neither rain nor autumn snow. I just wonder what would have happened if suddenly a lively wind had sprung Many wonderful Abraham prints are still to be found in George Fisher, up or the conditions took a turn for the worse? It just seemed like a complete providing a remarkable record of the adventure of the early days of beginner, who hasn’t passed any test, jumping on a high powered motorbike mountaineering. Also within the shop there is a display of the equipment of and blasting off down the motorway without crash helmet or leathers. I’m the amazing O.G.Jones. One of the most outstanding climbing pioneers of his not sure if that’s alarming or refreshing in this day of health and safety day Jones claimed that his initials ‘OG’ stood for the ‘Only Genuine’ and he legislation... wrote one of the most infl uential climbing books ever, ‘Rock Climbing In The English Lake District’. Its evocative descriptions, scientifi c system of grading the diffi culty of rock climbs and inspirational photographs were state-of-the- art at the time.

Despite the mild, bespectacled image presented in his most famous portrait by the Abraham Brothers, Jones’ deeds are legend. He developed the ‘scientiﬁ c’ use of the climbing rope using belays and running belays probably for the ﬁ rst time on the British crags. This was to pay off when he made the second or third ascent of Moss Ghyll in the winter of 1892, probably the hardest winter route ever climbed in Britain at the time and still graded V. Climbing solo, he fell from the chockstone pitch and was only saved by his self-belaying techniques. Despite broken ribs, he continued and made a successful ascent. October Half term crowds on Striding Edge

11 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 THE OUTDOOR CLASSROOM Hone your winter skills on a weekend course

YHA Derwentwater, just 2 miles from Keswick in the Borrowdale Valley, is once again running weekend winter skills courses. These popular courses are very well established and have been run for the past 25 years. The courses take place whatever the weather, and are a great introduction for those who are new to winter hill walking or who wish to develop their winter mountaineering skills. Gain confi dence in winter conditions Two different weekend courses are offered. The Introductory Level course is for those whose walking experience has been mainly in summer conditions and provides the key skills you‘ll need. You’ll learn how to use ice axe and crampons, including self arrest practice on steep ground, navigate in winter conditions and deal with survival situations. Plus you’ll get expert advice on winter gear. The course includes the fi rst part of the National Navigation Award and assessment at Bronze level is available. The inclusive price of £166 includes full board accommodation plus the loan of ice axes and crampons. The 2010 dates are 8-10 Jan, 22-24 Jan, 5-7 Feb, 19-21 Feb, 5-7 March The Intermediate Level course is designed for those with some experience of winter hill walking who wish to develop and consolidate their skills and try more challenging mountaineering routes. You’ll learn the correct use of ice axe and crampons, how to arrest a slip or fall, plus the rope skills including how to move safely and secure a team on steep ground with belaying techniques. You’ll also learn the skills required to navigate in winter conditions and deal with survival situations. This course is more technical and physically much more demanding than the basic Winter Skills course. Also included in the programme is the fi rst part of the National Navigation Award and assessment at Bronze level is available. Again, the inclusive price includes full board accommodation plus loan of ice axes, crampons and technical gear. Price: £166 Dates - 2009: 18-20 December, Dates - 2010: 29-31 Jan, 12-14 Feb, 26-28 Feb, 12-14 March For further information, or if you would like a course programme and booking form, contact Kathy Morris and Dave Piercy at YHA Derwentwater, Barrow House, Borrowdale, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5UR. Tel: 017687 77246 Email: [email protected]

12 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 COMMONWEALTH ATHLETICS COMES TO KESWICK Mountain and ultra-running event a huge success

The Commonwealth Mountain and Ultra Distance Championships held As Peter Mearns at headline sponsor Northwest Development Agency 17-20 September in Keswick proved to be a huge success. Crowds of put it, “This was a truly international event featuring world-class athletes spectators saw athletes from 14 nations compete in three separate competing on our doorstep. Such a high-proﬁ le event promotes Cumbria disciplines - mountain races, a 100km road race and a 24-hour race. and the Lake District around the world as a true sports destination.” Conditions proved to be perfect for athletes and spectators alike, with glorious sunshine showcasing the Lake District at its very best. Many personal bests were broken, and a new Commonwealth Record was achieved with Australia’s Martin Fryer covering 255.9 kilometres (159 miles) in the men’s 24 hour race. In a surprise result, Kenyan athlete Wilson Chemweno won the men’s Uphill race title beating the favourite, world champion Jonathan Wyatt from New Zealand, then went on to achieve the double by also winning the Up and Down race. All this in his ﬁ rst-ever mountain championship – an incredible talent discovered. The 100km men’s race was won convincingly by England’s Jez Bragg in 7:04:01 followed home by Matt Giles and Matt Lynas for an England 1,2,3. Women’s 100km winner was Jackie Fairweather from Australia in 7:41:23, a huge 22 minutes clear of England’s Emma Gooderham in second. Chemweno powers up Latrigg SNOW TIME AGAIN! Des Oliver looks back on the development of skiing as a sport

If you wished to practice your turns, you had to side-step up the slope to fl atten the snow in order to make turning easier (that was the theory, anyway). When I fi rst went skiing (skis, sticks and boots cost £15) we caught the bus from Keswick to Thirlspot, walked to the top of Whiteside and launched ourselves downhill. Apart from two dislocated thumbs, I was hooked. On my fi rst visit to Cairngorm, to reach the snow in Coire Cas you fi rst had to walk from Glen More. There were no lifts, so to ski downhill meant climbing the White Lady slope - about 1,000ft of elevation - and I managed six runs in a day! Nowadays there is the funicular mountain railway plus numerous other lifts available. It was the same at Glen Shee. I recall a representative of the prospective Glencoe ski lift company asking the Lake District Ski Club how to construct a ‘rope tow’, as the club had one on Raise working from a converted tractor. The Lakes District Ski Club piste at Raise seen from the air. How times have changed in my lifetime. The fi rst ski lift, a ‘T-bar’ tow appeared Photo: www.benbarden.co.uk in Austria at St Anton in the 1920s, the brainchild of Hannes Schneider who is also credited with developing the ski ‘stem turn’. Now, there is every It’s snow time again; time for us to play in the white stuff. Throughout conceivable form of transport available for you to exploit the snow slopes from the summer, engineers in the Alps and elsewhere will have been beginner to extreme. overhauling the various ski lifts and piste machines to see that they are Winter comes but once a year, but boy does it cause an upsurge in mountain in working order ready for the multitudes of winter sports enthusiasts. activity! In the early days there were no lifts. The occasional mountain railway would [A new fi lm documenting the history and activities of the Lake District Ski Club get skiers only so far up the hillside then it was ‘Shanks’ pony’ to the slope you based on Raise, Helvellyn has been made by Debbie McGowan and Ben Barden wished to ski. You either carried skis on your shoulder, fastened to a rucksack and was premiered at the Kendal Mountain Festival earlier this month – Ed] or in some cases attached climbing ‘skins’ to the base of the ski which allowed upward progress on skis.

13 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 SKYE RIDGE REVISITED Our man in Chamonix, mountain guide Mark Seaton, tries the Cuillin 18 years on.

I once spent seven weeks working as a mountaineering instructor on get going, and the going was brutally uphill, up very slippery grass with no Skye, based at the Glen Brittle YHA. It rained every day. In 1992 I path. It was hot too. It took about three hours to reach the ridge and the fi rst qualifi ed as an Alpine Guide and I left Skye, left Scotland and moved to Munro - Gars Bheinn (900m). From the southern end the whole ridge stretched France and Chamonix where it certainly rains less frequently. out in a great lazy curve. It looked even more alpine in nature – apart from no glaciers, and of course the sea. Gradually the memories of continual rain diminished and my memory suffered a nostalgia attack. All I seemed to remember were the good times; because The fi rst part of the ridge is a walk, but the sort of walk where if you do not when it is good, Skye is world class. The traverse of the Skye Ridge is a coveted concentrate on every foot placement you are going to take a tumble. The level prize for any mountaineer. of concentration needed makes it is very tiring, especially because you have to put yourself under pressure to keep going because it is a very long way. So I returned with four of my clients who had only ever climbed and skied with me in the Alps - Peter and Michael Folkman, Bill Medlicott and Charles Still, everything was good including the weather - or was it? Suddenly Sherwood. Then, to look after us all I had asked my very good friend and everything changed, the clouds came shooting over and it started to drizzle. Mountain Guide Alan Kimber to come along to help. Then rain and swirling mist. Not very alpine.

We arrived from different directions and met at the Glen Brittle Hotel. The The Skye Ridge is not just a single ridge, it comprises of many tributaries online forecast was contemplated over a few beers, the internet being one and spurs and these coupled with the uselessness of a compass (the rock is massive change in the 18 years since I was last climbing in the UK. The forecast magnetic) makes navigation at best tedious, and at worst impossible. But was at least good for the next day and so we decided to have a warm-up day by still we had our secret weapon. Alan Kimber knows the ridge probably as climbing Pinnacle Ridge on Sgurr Nan Gillean.(965m). well as any man alive. So we followed him, into the now pouring rain. We kept bumping into people coming from different directions, all looking worried and The fi rst thing that struck me about returning to these mountains was how bedraggled. It was like a scene from a disaster fi lm where every now and again much more they were alpine in character, than British. They were big and steep the actors stumble across survivors of some cataclysmic accident. and required lots of alpine techniques of moving together, abseiling, belaying and placing protection. My feeling was that you needed to be a climber and not The hardest section of rock climbing, the Thearlaich Dubh Gap, was just ahead a hill walker to be safe on these mountains. Yet wherever I looked there were of us. Entry into the Gap is by abseil. Plausible in the rain. Yet the climb out people who seemed barely to have the rudiments of hill walking experience. For of the Gap is made of ‘pudding stone’ which I remembered being smooth and example we were followed by a father and son team where the father carried slippery even in the dry. In the pouring rain it would be the stuff of nightmares. a rope but seemed to use it as no more than a fashion accessory, having So, we would compromise and turn the ridge on the left. A good path led us wrapped himself up in it and causing great inconvenience. to a fantastic cave where we put on climbing harnesses, roped up and climbed unconsolidated rock eventually arriving on top of Sgurr Alasdair (993m) where On our way down we passed a group perched on the ridge at an abseil point we saw nothing except thick swirling cloud and driving rain. You may wonder wondering what to do. They had scrambled up, but had not fi gured how to get back down. They asked if they could ‘borrow’ our rope to abseil. I enquired if they knew how to do this and all said no!

Alan saved their day by pointing out a way down that did not require a rope.

Back at the hotel we again looked at the forecast for the next day. It was not too bad so we decided to attempt the traverse. We were going to take two days, including one planned bivouac just off the ridge.

Aesthetics have always been very important to us and it was decided that there was no better way to approach the route than by boat. This was to be a fast rigid inﬂ atable (RIB) taken from the small port of Camasunary. Apart from providing a stunning start to the trip, it also meant we did not need to schlep in from Glen Brittle across uninspiring bog.

The RIB dropped us in the most idyllic spot, while various seals looked on. The natural jetty was so perfect that I would have been quite happy to have stayed there for the whole day. However we had to Easier than walking in!

14 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 why we did not just bin the whole trip and escape down the famous Great Stone Shoot. The reason we did not was because the forecast was improving and we felt if we could just get through the next couple of hours, we would still be on course to complete the traverse. We were all prepared for an uncomfortable time in pursuit of our objective.

We descended carefully off Sgurr Alasdair and round one of the key passages, Collies Ledge, then had to climb back to the summit of Sgurr Mhic Choinnich (948m).

We were all drenched, especially as some of us had ripped our waterproofs to bits on the notorious gabbro rock. We still had to climb the famous Inaccessible Pinnacle (986m), the only mountain summit in the UK that requires roped climbing to reach the summit. Still, the weather was looking better as it was now only drizzling. The stunning Cuillin Ridge We arrived at the summit in one long line. As we waited our turn to make the We now had only to ﬁ nd our bivouac site, where Alan had pre-dumped some abseil descent, the rain ﬁ nally stopped supplies a few days before. Ironically we also needed some water to make soup and the clouds parted presenting us with and tea. We therefore dropped into Coire Na Banachdich and it was 9.45pm by jaw-dropping views. the time we were at the food cache. Brilliant planning also meant there was a bottle of Talisker – we could even see the distillery!

At 5.30am we were awoken by Alan fi ring up the stove. We struggled to wake up from our damp slumber. Stiff limbs all round. We made our way back onto the ridge and continued in thick mist. Although it was not raining, the rock was very damp and despite being so rough it was treacherously slippery. Consequently we moved very slowly. Far too slowly, and soon the writing was Professional Guiding Introduction and Organisation on the wall. In these conditions we would not fi nish the route without a third of Skiing and Mountaineering Pursuits bivouac, which we had not planned for. We decided to climb the next Munro in AN INTRODUCTION TO ALPINE front of us, Sgurr A Ghhreadaidh (973m) and then make a leisurely retreat down MOUNTAINEERING Coire An Dorus where the path hit the road right outside my old haunt, the Glen Brittle YHA. And sadly, any chance of going back on to the ridge the next day I have devised a fi ve day programme for people who have often thought was thwarted by yet more rain. about Alpine Mountaineering but who are not clear on how to begin.

My assumption is that you are reaonably ﬁ t and active but have no or little experience of ropes or rock climbing. Our time together would provide you with all the necessary skills to ascend a variety of alpine summits in safety because you would be in the company of an experienced guide.

The programme is intensive and includes three alpine ascents culminating in the ascent of a major peak and includes over-nighting in an alpine hut. The maximum client to Guide ratio is three to one.

The cost of the course is €2000.00 which could be divided between a maximum of 3 people. This fee does not include travel and accommodation but we can arrange it. The transfer time between Geneva airport and Chamonix is just over an hour. For more information go to www.markseaton.com or contact

750, CHEMIN DES GLIERES, CHAMONIX, MONT BLANC 74400 FRANCE telephone +33 (0)4 50 53 63 77. [email protected]

International Federation of Mountiain Guides Associations Sunset from the Inaccessible Pinnacle

15 the Update WINTER 2009 - ISSUE 69 KESWICK MOUNTAIN FESTIVAL

If you’ve already got your 2010 diary, you’ll want to make sure the Keswick Mountain Festival is in there for 19-23 May. Packed full of loads of great activities, fantastic sporting competitions and inspirational speakers, you can create your very own ﬁ ve days of adventure - anything from ghyll scrambling to mountain biking, hiking to kayaking, orienteering to climbing. The Adventure Base will be on the shores of Derwentwater surrounded by the classic summits of Skiddaw and Cat Bells. There really is no better place to check out all the latest gear from brands such as Haglofs, Patagonia, Buff and more. You’ll also be able to pick up handy tips from experts and try out new activities with areas dedicated to Hike, Bike, Climb, Paddle and Triathlon. There will be a great line-up of speakers in the Theatre By The Lake; already Classic walks at the Festival conﬁ rmed are Leo Houlding, Andy Kirkpatrick and Andy Cave, plus there will be nights dedicated to Mountain Biking and Heroes of the Lakes. Visit www.keswickmountainfestival.co.uk for more information.

Published by George Fisher Limited, 2 Borrowdale Road, Keswick, Cumbria CA12 5DA Tel: 017687 72178 Website: www.georgeﬁ sher.co.uk Email: customerservice@georgeﬁ sher.co.uk The publishers of Update would like to thank all contributors to this edition, noting that the opinions expressed in submitted articles are those of their authors, and not necessarily of George Fisher Ltd. Editor: Clive Allen Printed by Reeds Printers, Penrith Tel: 01768 864214 Printed on 100% recycled paper